Scale Model General

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I guess I'll kick this bitch off with my 1/72 test bed. I'm trying to figure out just how lazy I can get with my panel wash, and I'm getting pretty close to peak laziness. I think if I make the base coat light enough, that when I apply the Tamiya panel line wash, it'll darken the color down to the proper shade. So far experimentation has yielded undesirable results, but this one may look better under natural lighting. Also it's so shiny because I'm also experimenting with rain, specifically what a tank looks like in the rain.

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Just got this kit should i paint the RAM Panel or i can just leave it out there are some F 35 without the painted Ram panel tho

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>>6225654
Pic Related

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>>6225654
Some reference Photos

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Finally got the black and white base done on the fail-55. Base color is the next step.

>>6225654
Those panel outlines appear to be there to keep the gap from bouncing back radar waves, so perhaps they can't always be bothered with them when puttering around back home?

>>6225668
What colors are you gonna use?

>>6225678
Olive green, because historical accuracy is out the window anyways, and I have two jars of the stuff.

>>6225706
From tamiya?

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Ayyy tracks are on, gotta let the pigment dry so I can get the final wash and such on
>>6225668
Looking good so far boy, i'd love to finally get into airbrush tier but I've gotta keep saving for my next car

>>6225717
Exactly. Thinned 80%.

Does anyone know to make 1/35 maps? Ive printed some out on paper. Can I just glue them to a surface with thinned white glue?

>>6225668
Always wanted to try this

>>6225749
You can, but not sure about the glue as it will wet it and can be noticed. Try searching on armorama as I've remember reading some post of a dude making a ton of maps for a field hq diorama he was making and used printed at home ones

>>6225749
Yeah, just be careful about the thinning if you're using an inkjet printer, as the ink reactivates in a hurry when it gets wet.

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>>6225777
>>6225755
Also heard using gel CA, not liquid. Ive printed out some extras and hopefully I can do some tests

>>6225815
Could work too. It's not like the joint will have to carry any mass to speak of, so you can stick them down with whatever. A dot of varnish would probably suffice too.

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Almost done with this thing. I managed to find the missing wing of the other seaplane in my carpet, so I'm going to paint it today and place it on the catapult as well.

I'm honestly really unsatisfied with how it turned out, maybe if I fixed the accuracy issues I would be happier, but I feel like I put too much work into it and I'm just not satisfied with the result. Flyhawk's kits which I'm going to work on next should turn out a lot nicer and more detailed.

>>6225751
Pre-shading on tanks? It's a really nice method if you can control your colour flow afterwards so the shadows and highlights still show, saves a lot of time afterwards. It benefits the use of pigments and filters for weathering quite well.

>>6225654
What panel are you talking about?

>>6225872
Idk dude. The ship itself is incredible. The base could use some work but overall its still 9/10

>>6225899
Not just preshading, the whole BW technique

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>>6226067
The base isn't done yet, pic related, currently working on it.

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They're coming out a little large for my liking. I think they will look smaller as they dry though, as the medium gel is white until it drys clear.

It's also apparent looking at the hull that it's far too flat, I'm going to add some semi-gloss varnish to the hull once the waves are dried. I'm also going to order some cheap 1/700 USN figures to place on the ship. It just looks barren without them.

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The build is finished except the tracks that I've only done one, but being link and length they are pretty fast to do.
I don't know how to finish the cupola. it uses the infrared only, but I liked the mg so I tried to put it all. But the mg's mount is retarded, it would be impossible to use for the commander unless he or other went outside the turret to fire. I thought of putting the ring (neither version uses it) and making a new mount or risking fucking it up and making an hybrid rotatory mount with the infrared and the mg, but it would end rather cluttered and I'm really digging the cupola without anything. Now I'm not sure what to do anymore.
>>6226183
I'm liking the base but now looks like weird cum desu, I suppose that when it's dry it will look better

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A shot of the rear. Honestly, doing this diorama thing is the most fun I've had building models in quite a while. Next base I make I'm going to try and make a bit more greenish in hue though, and lighter color, but I think this works alright for a deep blue Atlantic ocean color.

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Also, has anyone here ever used these North Star Model figures before? The render looks really nice, but I can't imagine these looking very good in reality. The other alternative is eduard's colored photo etch figures, which are just flat 2D figures, and I think I would have to paint the back side of them since it's photo etch.

https://northstarmodels.com/product/1700-us-navy-figures-in-working-positions-set-2/

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The base color is on and the shading worked better than expected. As soon as I get to weathering I can further refine it.

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>$29.95 USD

Thanks Barnes & Noble

Hopefully I won't absolutely ruin this

>>6226376
Fun fact: hob y lobby now carries them for the same price and there is always a 40 percent off coupon in effect. Picked up an xwing for like 20 bucks last week.

Sucks because I used to have to wait a month to import them and now I can't feel superior to everybody else

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1/35 Trumpeter Hotchkiss H35/38:
I've stopped messing with the turret for a little while. I dropped one of the hooks to the turret and gave up looking for it after spending a few hours total, on and off, crawling around on the floor. I made a simple mold using some cheap latex rubber on one of the hooks I glued in already. Latex lasts longer than the fancy silicon stuff apparently. One part of the two of silicone turned pretty solid after sitting on the shelf a couple of years. Just as well, the latex was easier to use and cheaper for a one off. Now I just have to get around to casting this shit...

Anyway, I put some work into the hull. I took some measurements (which I wrote onto the inside base of the turret ring) and cut some plastic strip to make a 2 part armored collar that was missing from the kit. The turret needs to sit up a little bit from the hull as well. I think I mentioned that.
Used a SAC Green spray from Testors and it came out a little too gray for my tastes. I'm pretty much just using whatever paints I have laying around since I should use them at some point. I'm pretty sure they'll go bad if I don't.

So I went over it with some acrylics and water-mixable oils (oil-acrylics), doing wet blending, washing, and general hand painting for a variety of weathering, general painting, and toning.

Chipping was just paint laid down, then a little bit up paint around the edges, blended to the outside. I still need to do more painting but this is where I stopped for the time being.

Oh yeah, I replaced the handles on the engine deck with copper. One of them went in a little off and I'm thinking of modeling it as a wonky repair job, so it'll get a little bit of raw weld.

>>6226376
you absolutely ruined the picture tho

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Alright boys after several weeks the panels are all painted. Pretty soon I can actually get started putting this togwther.

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Started building this Trumpeter USS New Jersey/1983. First time doing photo etch so the rest should be interesting. Pretty solid kit so far, needed some putty to square up the upper and lower halves other than that nothing major so far.

>>6227097
Looks good so far, it's the modernized version right? What photo etch set are you using?

I hope you didn't glue it all together yet, it's much easier to build and paint ships in sections.

>>622594the RAM Panels

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>>6225654
Didnt do it for mine, but the Japanese version supposedly doesnt have it.

I got another one of these Hasegawa F-35's, going to do the RAM panels for the Australian version

>>6227167
Thanks, Lol nothing glued down yet, it just threw the sections on for the pic. Yeah, its the modern refit with the armored tomahawk launchers, harpoons CIWS and such. Its the gold metal models one, its got stuff for 1967 and 1982+ mostly differences in the radar. It's reference's to skywave models but its all the same.

>>6227182
What color did you use for reference anon ?

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Picked up tamiya t3476 1941 for my first kit
Any tips?

>>6226329
Looking good. I'm looking forward to seeing this build completed!

>>6227300
>http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf

dunno if this download still works right but it should cover almost everything you need to know

But the most important things to know is not using too much glue and thinning your paints.

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>>6226292
They look pretty good from what I can dig up from Google.

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>>6227422

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>>6227423

>>6227422
how the fuck do you even paint these and remove them from the sprew?

>>6227460
very careful

>>6227097
I really like the picture-in-picture. Looks good so far

>>6227460
I think you paint a solid color and then a blob of flesh near the head. Removing them from the sprue is probably hard as fuck

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>>6227267
Tamiya Medium sea grey on a preshaded grey primer.

These are all old photos btw, cause I no longer have the model in my possession

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>>6227581
Sorry, it was a white primer and a medium grey base

>>6227581
>Our glorious Queen on the currency

A fellow Aussie, noice. You even have the same disposable dropper as I use, double noice.

>>6227581
>>6227583
Ayy, where have you been? I remember these from a year ago

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>>6227588
It has been a while since I posted anything that I have built, but I have been here the whole time if you can believe it. New apartment means I havent been building much recently, but I am nearing completion on something new.

>>6227587
>noice

>>6225722
Why's it so shiny?
Am I the only person who filters with brown?

>>6227300
1/35 or 1/48 scale?

If 1/48, you need superglue for the metal hull.

>>6227602
1/72 Zvezda kits? How are they? How are the tracks on the IS-2? I have a shitty cut up Italeri one that I wanted to detail but now I feel like it's not worth the effort. I got a metal barrel and a photoetch set for it. Don't want those to go to waste.

>>6227720
I bought 3 so that a couple of model maker and armour enthusiast friends could build them in a day. T-34-85, Su-100 and the IS-2. Mine is the IS-2, armour friend building the T-34-85 had to bail halfway through though.

The tracks made me want to kill myself but I made them work without breaking mine. Both of the T-34 based tracks broke however.

A replacement barrel is absolutely required for the IS, the other two's barrels are simple enough not to need one.

Other than that the detail is quite acceptable and the fit is excellent. Only thing I'd recommend is replacing the handles with wire but that's not an advanced technique.

>>6227743
What's wrong with the barrel? A close up pic?

>>6227676
I'm trying to give it a look as if it's in a rain storm. It's also part test bed, experimenting with various effects

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>>6227751
I had a metal one from aber lying around so I threw the original one away. Here is a side by side of mine and the kits.Sorry about the blurriness, the original photo wasnt focused on the barrel.

>>6227762
Looks fine to me. Maybe not very dimensionally accurate but the muzzle brake looks better than the RB model one.

>>6227774
Picture doesnt show it, but it is way too small also. Comparing them side by side when I was installing the metal one seriously showed me the kits barrel is atrocious. If you've seen any of the D-25T series of guns, you'll immediately clue into the fact that muzzle brake just looks wrong.

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>>6227422
>>6227423
>>6227425
Thanks, damn those are well detailed for the size. Did some more googling myself and found a review for them. I'm probably just going to go the cheap route and get some eduard painted etch figures though, those look like a pain in the ass to paint / remove from the resin base.

Progress update on the base though, I'm ~95% done, but I need some opinions. It turned out ok, but I'm looking for any advice to improve it further, should I add more foam in larger, thinner patches in the mid section, and should I even make foam wave crests in front of the ship. or should I remove the ones I already laid down? I'm not sure I like the way it looks, might be better without any at all in front of the ship, and only behind it.

Also, HMS Naiad behind the Tuscaloosa, going to make another diorama for it too, but it should look a lot better because the kit is 10x more detailed, and it has a very interesting brown / green / grey camouflage scheme.

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Also
>It's another anon buys ANOTHER new kit to add to the backlog episode
The kit is pretty old, but I'm going to get a flyhawk upgrade set for it.

I'm starting to really like 1/700 scale.. I don't think I'm going to make 1/350 ships anymore. Too big, I don't have the space for them and they take too much time to paint.

I also got some of Tamiya's enamel wash, going to see how it compares to AK / MIG washes, as well as some of their lacquer thinner. By the way, I already tested it and it does not work to thin AK acrylic paints either (someone said in previous thread it did with with MIG I think).

>>6227912
What gloss did you use for the top? Looks nice and smooth.

>>6227995
I used liquitex gloss medium to fix in the waves, and then once they were dried I played a layer of liquitex high gloss varnish and smoothed it out with a large paintbrush.

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>>6227602
Holy hell, the 72nd scale zvezda tracks are so bad, what the hell were they thinking?
Why didn't they do them like on the T-34/76?
Their T-90 is amazing, but the tracks are a major letdown.

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Adding some character to the remora wheelhouse. OOB its completely bare. Plain walls with no texture, and just a computer and chair. Not really happy with the way the monitor came out but in all likelihood none of this will ever be seen

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>>6228182
Looking good so far, but based on the placement of the map and the blueprint on the chair, how come the chair isn't facing the door, as if the captain has left the post?

Also finished up my shitaleri ISU 122, I think I got a good representation of a grimy look after a brown wash application, but as you all know, there is always room for improvement.

>>6227385
Not him, but thanks.

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>>6228657
>always room for improvement.
Always

Need to paint some tail lights. Should I go transparent red or will tamiya regular red look ok?

>>6229366
Transparent red over silver base. Best results

>>6229370
I use stoplight red metallic by model master and it looks perfect

>>6229366
Depends on what plastic you're painting. Is it clear or opaque?

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>>6228832
You missed the shield on the mantled around the barrel

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Shitty picture, but I built a new display base for my Indianapolis, I remember a lot of people said the previous one wasn't very good, and I agree. It was too thick and just didn't look right. This time I just used a router on a piece of oak and then sawed off the excess wood on the edges, then sanded everything down to 220 grit. I'm going to stain it later.

Learned the hard way that using a router without a proper router table is a pain in the ass though, and I'm too cheap to pay for one right now. there's a couple spots that I fucked up as my jig is simply a metal ruler clamped down with some shitty clamps. It slid a few times when routing and slightly fucked it up, though it's only on the rear of the base so it's not that bad I guess.

I'm actually going to go back and do some more weathering on the Indy later, mostly on the lower hull. I want to add some chipping and sludge on the lower part of the hull so that it doesn't look so pristine. I might bring it to a local IPMS model convention next month which is why I want to improve it as much as I can.

>>6229550
Clear resin. Wasnt sure if I should back it with a solid red or what

>>6229559
I was the guy that said it didnt look good, and this looks so much better. In love with this.

>>6229564
Use some clear paint in that case. Like Tamiya or others Ammo and such

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>>6229574
Thanks, this is how I'm going to start making my bases from now on. I need to learn how to glue the plexiglass together better though.

I haven't put in much more work with the Tuscaloosa base though. I'm not very happy with the result. I need to make the wave crests much smaller next time, and limit my use of heavy gel to a minimum. There's just too many wave crests / foam around the ship and I can't really go back and undo it now. They're too thick as well for the scale. That said, I learned a lot in the process and can hopefully improve on the next one I build.

>>6229591
Looks incredible and now I want to build a ship.

>>6229554
I know, I'm also unsure how to fix it at this point

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Bought this lot of resin junk on ebay for 20 bucks. Pretty awesome and full of lots of cargo and I'm pretty sure a 1/35 version of Hunter S. Thompson

>>6230019
>20 bucks
God dam boy, I see some photo etch in there too. Great haul

>>6230019
I fell for the resin and photo etch meme once but since cargo and weapons are pretty useful I might give it another go.

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This brings me much more joy than it should

>>6230599
I absolutely adore small personal details like that. Can't wait to see it finished. I personally like taking roughly the same photo from the same angles as I progress my builds, then I can really see the differences

>>6230691
Also need to find some 1/35 cats on the cheap to put somewhere on board

>>6230599
Which scale is that?

How big is your stash? How big is too big?

Gf is fine with hobby but starting to get annoyed by stash size

>>6230732
1/35

>>6230735
I try to only buy something new if i finished a build because i felt my stash got to big.

Currently i have around 25 unbuilt kits in my shelf and around 5 built but unpainted ones.
Since i'm somewhat successful with my "rule" from above those numbers are more or less the same for 1 year now.

My next purchase will be the new Tamiya 1/48 Elefant with some AM parts like Zimmerit. Before that i have to at least paint 1-2 things or get something built.

>>6230735
I don't have too many but the ones I do have are quite large. sometimes I buy things if I see them for a really good price. don't have the space to build or display them but its nice to own them.

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I'm done with the base, stained it, only thing left is to wait a few days for it to dry completely before I seal it up.

>>6230735
Probably about 40 kits or so right now, in various stages of completion. Some of them are half finished, some are almost completely painted and I gave up at some point in the build. I can't even sell most of my unfinished kits because I already started almost every single one.

I've been trying to finish what I start from now on, but I keep buying new kits too, so my backlog just continues to lack progress...

>>6230764
>ometimes I buy things if I see them for a really good price


This is my biggest "problem" too.
I end up with kits i have no desire to build at all, but if i see them at 50% of their regular price or even less than that or if i know they will be out of production soon then i just buy them.

But you are right, it feels just nice to have them... at least i will never suffer from boredom or run out of stuff to build for the next 20 years, even if i lose my job and won't get any more money.

>>6230599
>>6230691
>I absolutely adore small personal details like that. Can't wait to see it finished.
QFT

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When the 'tism kicks in for creative stuff you just gotta go with the flow. Last night I worked on the IR/mg mount and I'm having so much fun with this. With the bits left on the sprues, as I don't have evergreen materials or anything else but green stuff putty scratch related, I'm trying to do a functional and convincing mount and so far it works. I would like to extend the turret ring to eliminate blind spots but I'm not sure if I could do a neat enough job.
>>6230735
In total I have five kits in the stash, but of those only plan to really build three of them desu

>>6230792
I'm gonna say the same thing I said before: the wood grain takes away from the model. I think a solid black painted base would looke better, even if it was just particle board or something

>>6230792
I think it needs to be stained a bit darker, more mahogany colored. it does draw the eye away from the model.

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>>6230902
So what did you do to modify the IR mount?

Not sure what you meant by extending the turret ring? I assume you meant the cupola but I'm not sure.

>>6224989
Is that john cena?

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>>6230999
Yeah without having done one or having seen it it's hard to see the mods.
What you posted is the one that came which has a rigid mount that goes inside the cupola and makes it impossible to close it completely and the whole thing was intrusive and crude (can’t blame them due the tech and circumstances tho), anyway afaik the only movement it had was the elevation of the optics with those two handlebars.
So I took the base off (can be seen in the background of the first pic, that triangular thing), added an extended platform so it sits lower and farther, allowing the commander to exit through the cupola easily and being able to look through the IR comfortably. Also a “clamp” system to be mounted on the ring so the whole thing can rotate.
I also added the handle to rotate it comfortably (I was going to cut off the handles but those were a pita to clean up when I put them so I just left them but shortened) and use the triangle thingy for structural support and give the ammo belt a resting surface.
The mg will be mounted (still working on it) in the middle giving clearance to the commander to see and move around without having to expose himself too much to fire and/or look through the IR. I maybe, if I can get the bits for it, do a remote firing and elevation mechanism for the mg, but I’ll probably just leave it manual.
In this pic you can see the mods in the base.

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I misplaced (or dropped) the original SA18 barrel somewhere but I wanted to ask for your opinions on whether I should put in an extended barrel? There were a few countries that lengthened the barrel on the SA18s (the French did as well but those were the H38/39s and are a bit different overall) but I think most of those might have went into Renaults, being recycled from FT17s. Information is a little sketchy.

Anyway, the barrel shape isn't spot on, since I grabbed a barrel that was either from a 38(t) or 2pdr that I had laying around. I'm probably going to paint and decal it as a Girls und Panzer FrankenTank used in the setting's Tankathlon (see Ribbon no Musha manga).

tl;dr:
Should I stick in a longer barrel (L23-ish) or stick with the original short barrel?

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>>6231057
>Should I be a sissy and have a small barrel :3, or be a man and pack the heat?

Up gunning stuff to obscene levels is the only true answer for a man

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>>6231062
Not >>6231057 but it's what I would do, put the big guns if it's a frankentank anyway

What's he consensus on tamiya waterline 1/700?

>>6230735
there is no such thing as too big.

ive got maybe 75 kits? got most of them locally for really cheap many many years ago. I'd love to buy more but i dont have enough space or money. ive recently set a rule for myself to not spend any more money buying/building than I make selling kits. the downside is that i immediately spend every cent i make buying new kits.

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Okay, thanks all. Gonna go with the long barrel. I cut it back a little bit to remove the flared crown. It better matches some references that way. Quick spray with gunship gray and rub with some powdered graphite to mock up. I'll do a repaint later, maybe adjust the crown a little.

How much can I get away with not having any kind of spray booth for an airbrush?

The desk I use is right next to a window but it's still in my bedroom.

would a desk fan just blowing the overspray into the window suffice?

>>6231343
I dont use a booth. I just paint whatever piece sitting on newspaper. Overspray is minimal as the paint atomizes quickly

Weird request: does anyone have before and after pictures of using a dot filter?

>>6230951
>>6230964
Thanks for the input, but I'm gonna leave it as is though, I wanted it to look good even if it distracts.

>>6231082
Normally I ride Tamiya's dick, but their 1/700 line is mediocre, outdated and there's simply better kits out there compared to them. They have hardly any recent releases too. Check out Fujimi, Aoshima, Pit-Road, or Hasegawa if you're interested. Fujimi's Yamato is a lot better than Tamiya's from what I've read for example, and somewhat newer though Tamiya's kit is still alright when enhanced with some photo etch.

If you're interested in 1/700 though, I always recommend Flyhawk. Pic related, I'm currently working on their Naiad kit. They have some of the finest injection mold quality for the scale I've ever seen, it is 50x better than the competition like Trumpeter, and their kits come with enough photo etch to bring out the details too, and the kits are a pretty huge bang for your buck, especially if you buy them directly from China. Also, I think Flyhawk makes some of the better 1/700 detail sets out there too.

>>6231591
This guy uses that technique a lot in his builds, though I think just using streaking grimes gives better results. His technique is mostly using enamel paints, which are harder to do streaking with than standard oils, which would be more ideal for dot filtering.
http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=db92231315af844e12dd098b282d65b6

>>6231591
Good ole Coen has a vid on dot filtering, technically shows a before and after since he starts on a virgin side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzuYD_l6wjk&t=0s

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Just a few more touchups and fixes as well as a topcoat to seal it all in and I'll be finished.

>>6231699
God damn thats a beautiful ship. I migt have to buy that

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>>6231591
Gotcha covered, amigo

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>>6232005
Uh I though I did more pics of the hull but nope. I have the turret tho
Pic related is without filters or anything. Just paint and satin varnish on grey primer

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>>6232006
And after. But have in mind that I also did some more noticeable streaking (instead of dots paint a small "T") with the oils at the same time but you can see the obvious change compared the two images.

Here you have the build log of my löwe in case I didn't see more pics of oil dots or just want to check it.
https://imgur.com/a/mU4yd

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Cutting out some hollow exhausts for the Leichte. I just need to get myself a file and work in the ridges

>>6232009
Mah man.

Never heard of the t shape streaking. What exactly does it accomplish?

>>6232048
>>6232009
Also what colors? Burnt umber looks like but what else?

>>6232048
>>6232051
T shape its kinda like when you do streaking grime with enamels that's applied as a vertical stroke that's blended latter, so the thing with oil dots its that it kinda makes like a streaking effect but very subtle and straight. If you give it a heavier top and a "tail", when it's blend it takes a more defined shape. Kinda subtle overall but it gives a nice "old streak" feel to it I think.
The colors I used were: Burnt sienna, raw sienna, indian yellow, naples yellow light and cobalt blue.
The indian yellow is like an orange color, and the cobalt blue works very well to shade greens but be careful in lighter colors as it will look out of place

>>6230735
>How big is your stash?

Just got back form the post office, and with that my stash doubled in size to... two kits.

I think I was up at four or maybe "even" five at one point. But overall I try to keep it down to, say, two kits or so. It's working so far.

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Just finished the belly side of my B-17

>>6232091
Looks great

>>6232088
Mine is 2 kits. I wanna add a third but I feel guilty

>>6232100
Some advice... keep it low from the start, trust me. It begins one day when you're working on something and get bored / lose interest, so you go online / to a hobby shop and buy a new kit... then the process repeats, again and again and again until suddenly you have hundreds of kits stacked up on a shelf that won't ever get built because there's no way feasible to do so. Don't let it happen to you...

>>6232123
My best advice is to tell yourself to throw away kits that are half complete. I can't bear to do it so I at least finish them before I buy new stuff.

>>6232149
>throw away kits that are half complete
mate at least sell them so someone else can get a part they needed or something.

>>6231079
After doing some digging, it turns out it's not an upgun. The Polish/Russian examples of the FT17 I saw with the longer SA18 barrels were actually single barrel Hotchkiss Naval Guns which has about half the penetration power. I find this surprising (just a little) after seeing so many naval guns adapted to tanks as a way to upgun them. The Polish example was apparently a capture by the Soviets and refitted.

" The French FT-17 was supplied with either a 37mm Puteaux SA18 short-barreled gun or an 8mm Hotchkiss M1914 machine gun. The obvious inability to acquire the French-built Puteaux led to their replacement by single barrel 37mm Hotchkiss naval guns. These guns had originally been purveyed for the Russian navy, but had been found wanting during the Russo-Japanese war and many were thereupon relegated to storage. Modifications were made at the famed Putilov factory in Leningrad and consisted of alterations to the breech mechanism and the addition of a combined hydraulic compressor brake and recoil spring. Barrel length differed between a "short" 16.5 caliber model (24 inches) and a "long" 21 caliber version (30.7 inches). A shoulder rest was provided for the gunner, who would either stand in the turret or sit on a slung canvas rest. Ammunition for the 37mm consisted exclusively of fragmentation shells with a range of 2000 meters, although effective fire did not exceed 400 meters, with a muzzle velocity of 442 m/s. The effective rate of fire was 10-12 rounds per minute."


So I'm just going to chalk this mod up as what it is: a rebarrel using a cut down Skoda A7 and not sweat the details about rethreading and the like.
Also, I made an error and the length is probably something like L35-ish

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First time with an ICM product and I'm impressed. Detail is really nice on these figures and they fit together as good as a figure can.

>>6232501
Remove the mold lines

>>6232501
Im actually really unimpressed unless those are 1/48.

>>6232597
they're a 1/35 tank crew. Do they make them better? i've just been using the out of the box Tamiya tank crew typically whenever I get them.

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Any tips on doing desert weathering?
Not really looking for realism but rather an interesting/attractive finish, with lots of chipping, scratches, etc. Trying to depict a functional but heavily beaten slav tank.
What colors/techniques would you use? Would it look weird to apply a dark wash? How about metallic scratches/drybrushing?

>>6232742
Even tamiya is better in my opinion.

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With the roof done all parts have base coats and are assembled. Still have to do some led work on the engines but otherwise Im good to start decals/filtwrs/weathering.

Kinda nervous about proceeding. This shit is stressful

>>6232279
The market for second hand parts in my city is really quite nonexistent

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>>6232874
Just try to kick the fact out of your mind that you spent $150 on it.

W.I.P shot of the interior, have to add in the rest of the tranny as well as mud and such on the floor.

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This is such a pain in the ass, anyone have any better ideas to do small scale camouflage patterns?

What I did was took a photo of the instructions, cropped it and edited it for clarity and then resized it until I got it to 1:1 scale (since it's not 1:1 in the instruction manual), and then printed it out. Place strips of paint over the pattern and cut it out with an x-acto knife. It's really slow and tedious.

>>6232091
What kit is this?

>>6232794
Tamiya figures are trash

>>6232961
>Place strips of paint over the pattern and cut it out with an x-acto knife. It's really slow and tedious.

Okay, you lost me there. Could you maybe rephrase that?

>>6232996
brain fucked up, I meant to say strips of tape, but typed paint...

>>6232998
I assume you're spraying? What if you just cut the paper pattern out and skipped the tape part, using rubber cement to stick the paper to the hull?
You might want to test it out first but I'm pretty sure it would work fine.

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>>6232766
If something like this (more like dry steppe based)

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>>6233354
or like this which is based on afghanistan is what you have in mind I can help. Desertic weathering is one of the easiest tho, just dust, oil stains and some rust

>>6232961
That seems like a really good way to do camo. Never thought of doing it like that

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Just received pic related to build.
its for a relative, accuracy isn't important luckily. just gonna be a simple build.
if it was for myself id take a lot more time to modify it.
kits so old it was made before man had landed on the moon.

quick review for anyone interested.
http://www.niels-peter-henning.com/modell/bausatzvorstellungen/science-fiction-undweltraum/148-revell-lunar-module-eagle/

will post progress pics when theres actually something to show.

>>6233377
>kits so old it was made before man had landed on the moon.

1982? You might wanna brush up on your space exploration history a bit.

Still, a very interesting subject. I might go for Dragon's 1/72 some day.

>>6233418
no, the kit was originally issued in 1967.

heres the scalemates link.

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/227585-revell-apollo-lunar-module

doesn't really have a single redeeming quality, but I have nothing against old kits, they can be fun. they certainly had more variety back in the day & weren't afraid to make fun kits, even if they may not sell.

dragon do a pre built version that looks quite nice.

>>6232794
>>6232994

Old tamiya is terrible. Newer Tamiya minis (like the ones in their 2010+ 1/48 kits) are pretty good.

But they all (ICM too) are no match for proper resin minis. (But those are pricy).

>>6232961
>What kit is this?
the "new" revell B-17G

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>just missed out on a 1/35 tamiya Pz2 with infantry for 7,50 europoorbux

>>6233449
Was it the old shitty one or the new tooled one?

>>6233449
Why bother? Its usual price is just 2-3€ more.. Not really a good kit anyway and 7,50 is not that great of a deal either.

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>>6233357
More like the first one >>6233354
I am aware that desert weathering is a lot more subtle than "regular" one, but I was planing on going heavily on chipping and such, similar to pic related, never really done it before tho.
How did you do the those scratches and the rust finish on the T-90AM?

What's the concensus on Academy's models?

>>6233659
Some stuff are copies Tamiya hasn't bothered to sue them over, probably because shit degrades in the copying. Other kits appear to be ok. As always, research the individual kit you're looking into.

>>6233357
Throw a few washes of a pale sand over the model and in specific areas and dust on some finely ground pastel, fixing it with a flat clear. If you want some caked on, mix the pastel with a binder.

>>6233681
Are they actually copies or reboxes? Some of these model companies have some arrangement or another to carry other companies' models.

Ak weathering stuff is expensive as fuck in the US. What else is good for streaking and pigments? Ammo? Idk

>>6233631
Rather long to write but I have a build log:
https://imgur.com/a/u8bpw

It covers and describes all the steps I think but feel free to ask. For heavy chipping like in your pic or what I did is better to use a chipping fluid, hairspray technique for the poor :^), and work with that.

As you are doing a T-72(?) you need to check what parts are steel and what other are aluminium (not sure of what is what in each version but google shall help you) because the chipping of the pzIII shows the base color with dunkelgrau (because they were usually repainted with shit tier paints) and its easier to chip theater applied paint than factory one.

The rust of what part are you referring to?

>>6233767
Are you describing the process to me or asking what was done there?

I used chipping fluid, airbrushed sand enamel and with water "chip" it so it ends like a faint layer with accumulations. Then pigments to close the effect.

>>6233847
I don't know how pricey stuff is there but ammo is my go to weathering stuff, followed by vallejo (acrylic only liquid things tho). There's wilder as a fourth big contender and lifecolor does some stuff I think. Tamiya has a pretty sterile offering of weathering stuff too but some like it.

If I had to say my personal opinion it would be mig ammo uber alles, fuck ak, vallejo is okay and their pigments are really good and generous for the price and Tamiya is extremely meh compared to their paints and kits. Wilder isn't available easily here so I can't say but I would like to try their snow stuff. Lifecolor (I think) has some weird wet pigments that are acrylic.

>>6233881
>that Imgur link
This will be extremely helpful, thanks a lot.
Is the hairspray technique worth it? Never tried it before since I usually just fine brush those.
Doing a wasted T-90A, on a desert setup. Due to reasons on this specific build I am not worried about realism but rather what might look most attractive on the finished build, so I may assume whatever color under the base paint as well as any degree of chipping. I usually use MIG's 044 "chipping" color or even metallic silver for those, but I was worried it may look weird with the tan base color.
>airbrushed sand enamel.
Always been worried about that, I fear I would fuck up and ruin the whole model ;_;

Your build log is incredible, is it ok if I stole your idea of a blue + red fuel tanks?

>>6233944
Chipping fluid/hairspray is the way to go for that level of chipping for two main reasons:
>Time, airbrushing a base color and then doing the technique will make you finish in a matter of minutes (except the drying time of the base chipping color of course) rather than hours with the brush.
>Realism, you work like irl not applying layers on top.
Mig chipping color is a fine base for doing the whole thing, but if I remember well the ERA armor is primed in something lighter (although mig color represents an old chip rather than red oxide primer) or is made from aluminium so it doesn't rust, also some thing of the top of the side skirts.
A fine subject to do as I really like "what if" stuff. You need to image and create a narrative for the build so it ends making some sense even if it's only for the painting process, like a russian green vehicle repainted with sand so it shows green rather than old rust chips.
About airbrushing enamels for weathering I wouldn't recommend it outside that technique as its rather aggressive the result but it can be corrected with thinner tho.
Trying stuff, messing up and trying again is part of the hobby and you won't get better if you don't try new things and techniques, better having a fucked up mess where you learned what not to do and what works than another bland afv on the shelf.
Sure, go ahead. The red and white one is painted with A.MIG-014 RAL 8012 Rotbraun and A.MIG-017 RAL 9001 Cremeweiss, the blue is Tamiya X-14 SKY BLUE which is a shinny color but after all the stuff I did to it and some satin varnish the gloss dies.

This build could be discussed and planned in more detail if you want.

>>6233982
I will try giving the hairspray a try.
Sadly I am constrained on time, ergo my cautious approach on no fucking up. I shall post photos once it is finished tho.
Thanks a lot for all your advices, you have given me a lot to work with.

>>6233881
>>6233881
Fantastic build log

>>6233881
>Are you describing the process to me or asking what was done there?
I guess I linked the wrong person. I was throwing out a suggestion as to how to achieve the dirt build up.

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Hi /toy/, /k/ here, thought i would take a break from guns and jump back into scale armor, so bought some cheap kits to practice on. I was wondering what airbrushes do you guys use? I'm thinking about picking up this
https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Professional-Airbrush-Compressor-Dual-Action/dp/B01N8T84G1
Since it comes with almost everything to get started. Any suggestions?

>>6234175
Honestly, it's cheap chinese crap, simple as that. If you really want to do it on the cheap, go ahead, but you will be getting what you pay for, cheap quality compressor, cheap quality airbrushes that won't last and won't spray as good as a more quality badger / Iwata / H&S brush.

It's much better to invest about twice that amount of money on a better compressor and airbrush, maybe ~$100+ for the compressor and ~$100+ for a decent quality entry-level airbrush.

In that range you're looking at an Iwata eclipse, Badger Patriot, Badger RK-1 or a H&S Ultra. All 4 of these airbrushes are good entry-level choices.
Pick a compressor with a tank, you do not want a tankless compressor, trust me. The compressor doesn't matter as much, but something quiet would be preferred, with a large tank like I said above, and with a moisture trap if you live in a humid area. Something like this is a good buy, quiet, huge tank, though kinda pricey, you can probably find cheaper options just searching on amazon and reading reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-5510SE-5-5-Gallon/dp/B00NOSCDPA/

I say this often though, buying something like this is basically throwing your money away if you want to seriously invest in this hobby (seeing as you bought multiple expensive kits I'm assuming you do). Any hobby like this is going to take a decent amount of initial investment, especially on the airbrush, but it's well worth it in the end, as those chinese airbrushes won't last, they won't give you good results, especially for fine details, and will be a bitch to maintain and clean.

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>>6234196
I was figuring i would have to go a little deeper in my wallet to get an airbrush, it's no problem, you are right in that you do get what you pay for, and honestly im getting back into this hobby because it is cheaper than my current hobby, which is firearms, so throwing ~$400 towards an airbrush and comp + kits honestly sits better with me than paying for another gun that costs $600+, because again, you get what you pay for and good guns aren't cheap. Kits are cheaper, and give me plenty more hours of fun than a new gun would

>>6234215
You clearly already have a lot of stuff you need to get started, investing in a good airbrush is definitely the way to go though. All the ones I listed above are good options, I think the Eclipse is the best choice of them all though, it's a well regarded airbrush that can handle fine line and small details that you will need to do for certain camouflage patterns and whatnot. I've also used the Badger RK-1 in the past and it's a great airbrush as well, can't go wrong with either of those options. I'm currently using a H&S Infinity which is a more expensive brush, but well worth every dollar.

Like I said though, the compressor is less important so long as you get one that can fit the hose and has a large tank. Even if it doesn't fit your hose you can always get a converter thing to fit the hose. That said, if you get a badger you will need to get a badger hose because all their airbrushes use a proprietary system.

That's a nice selection of kits too, though the Panzer II one is quite an old kit, it's still solid. Tamiya has a newer tooled version of the same kit that's worth checking out in the future though, as is Dragon's panzer II kit.

>>6234175
Also a kommando here. Welcome

And dont get that airbrush

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>>6234231
Not pictured was the box of tools i had leftover from highschool, so i had a bit of a headstart with that, and i purposely bought older, cheaper kits so i could practice my painting and weathering techniques before i assemble the more expensive takom and dragon kits.since the quality of the newer kits is so good, it seems like it comes down to the paintjob to make or break those models. Those old kits also makes me flex my cutting, filling, sanding and scratchbuilding skills, since those kits are so goddamn old and full of flash and ejector marks and gaps and what have you.
>>6234233
By the cubes grace i'll buy a better airbrush

>>6234258
Oh yeah it's definitely good to start out with older kits first and work your way up to the newer ones. That T-55 kit is a beast by the way.

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Camouflage on ships is a bitch. Doing it on the side of the hull is pretty easy, but then matching the pattern on all the upper hull surfaces is such a pain in the ass, so many angles and difficult masking to do over complex surfaces, and everything is tiny. That said I'm almost done with it. I'm going to make another diorama for this one too, this time hopefully with a better result than the New Orleans. I did put more work into it but I didn't like the result, I used too much cotton and made too many waves.

I got some signal flags coming in the mail and once I get them I'm going to try and fix the New Orleans diorama by airbrushing some ocean color over some of the cotton and reducing the size of the foam and whatnot, and then apply more medium gel to mask it. I might also try to lighten up the ocean color since it is a little too dark.

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The bow and everything looks ok, but then for some reason I just went overboard in the middle and rear of the ship with the waves / foam and it's just too much. Also, the waves in the front of the ship should have been much smaller, I'm going to eliminate them entirely when I get back to working on it.

>>6234175
That same set exists with a better compressor with a tank.

But you really want a compressor with a tank. Period.

The brushes themself are not terrible, but its not really precision tools either. You can prime with them without a problem and maybe paint basic camo patterns but thats it.
If thats all you want to do.. go for such a cheap set (keep in mind the compressor tank!)

For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-Airbrush-Master-Compressor-Cleaning/dp/B001BO4X8Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1489302404&sr=8-7&keywords=airbrush+set+compressor

Those compressors are fine, they might be from china but they do the job. Maybe a bit louder than a really expensive one, but its not that bad.

You can always upgrade the actual airbrush later if you feel you want to do smaller details etc. There is nothing wrong with learning how to airbrush, how to clean it etc on a cheap workhorse before destroying something more expensive due to lack of knowledge.

Has anyone used/ had any experience with Tamiya Diorama paint? I'd just like to get your thoughts on the product and anything you noticed before I give mine a try after work.

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I keep buying them, but don't have any materials to build them with....

>>6234383
>but don't have any materials to build them with....

Luckily(?) the solution is simple, more shopping.

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So I had planned to just get some new decals and missiles for my J35F.

Then I noticed how the stock Hasegawa cockpit looked, and how the Aires one looked...

Hasegawa cockpit built up just for comparisons sake, it wasn't like it took a lot of time or anything. Also painted largely according to Hasegawa's instructions, which, yeah... http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/saab-j35-draken-cockpit/

I feel like making an obscure Soviet vehicle, preferably military. Budget flexible, but cheaper is always nice. Anyone have any suggestions? I prefer 1/48 scale, but I'm open to others.

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>>6234595
1:48 is a sad place for "obsucre" soviet armor.

You got a lot of T-34 versions by Hobby Boss, KV-1/KV-2 by either Hobby Boss or Tamiya, a Su-122, an JS-2 by Tamiya and a SU-152 by Bronco.
Mikro Mir (a russian company) does a T-70 and a BTR-60 in 1/48, but thats basically it when it comes to armor. There are some trucks and other cars though.

Nothing mentioned above should cost you more than $25 though, most can be found for around 15 actually.

(Oh, and there are several companies doing resin kits, but i assume you are talking about plastic kits only).

How about pic related in 1/35?

>>6234595
I have a personal bias towards two soviet things; anything with Kontakt-1 ERA, and missiles. So my recommendation is Zvezda SS-25 Topol launcher in 1:72. Having built one myself, I liked it a lot, its a big kit even in smaller scale, and they are pretty inexpensive at ~25-30€
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/191886-zvezda-5003-topol-ss-25-sickle

>>6234595
As other anons said 1/48 is a bit bleak. In 1/35 there's a ton of stuff and mods. In 1/72 you have Modellcollect that makes really nice kits and has an extensive catalog of soviet stuff and what if WWII german stuff
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?q=modelcollect&fkSECTION[]=Kits

>>6234622
I've done a lot of WW2 era Soviet armour already, so I'm looking to branch out a bit. Cold War onwards is fine.
Objekt 279 is bae.

>>6234633
Thanks, that's an interesting kit and certainly not what I had in mind. I'll consider it!

>>6234636
Sadly, yes, it is. It's my preferred scale due to my avid 28mm wargaming tendencies, so it's always nice to have the option of using scale kits, should I want to.
I've not heard of Modellcollect before, I'll give them a look, thanks.

Gf is asking me to airbrush her tits. What colors should I do?

>>6234775
Water based, non-toxic.

>>6234775
Jizz white. Make sure it's watered down enough for even coverage.

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Two flat cars down, another two to go. I've got a trio of Jeeps ready to fill up the next one, and then I can finally build the M40 I picked up the other week to complete the set.

How possible is to paint stuff for a living?

>>6235011
Post some of your models and Ill tell you

>>6235011
go to china and paint toys for 2$ a day

recommend me a beginner airbrush(i already have a chinese one).

also, what is the difference between a threaded nozzle and a conical? i read that a conical doesn't pulverize paint as well as a threaded.

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All done with the camouflage. Pain in the fucking ass, but it's done. I have a bunch of smaller spots that I have to tough up with a paintbrush though.

>>6235475
That detail is amazing. It looks better than my Aoshima Nagato retake, which is really, really nice itself. If only I thought British ships other than Warspite looked good...

>>6235535
The credit goes to the kit itself, Flyhawk's 1/700 kits are as detailed, if not more detailed than your average 1/350 kit, it's honestly amazing what they've been able to pull off with the injection molds they use. All the tiny little details like binoculars, the paravanes and the searchlights are all 10x more detailed than what you would find in other manufacturer's kits.

I have their HMS Aurora and SMS Derfflinger in my backlog right now too waiting to be built, the Lutzow looks fucking amazing, as does the Aurora. A lot of companies could learn a thing or two from Flyhawk.

That said, in general I agree, most brit ships just don't appeal aesthetically to me, but I love cruisers and the Brits had so many different unique classes of cruisers in WWII.

>>6235370
top mounted munitions just look so weird

>>6235475
how 2 keep zap glue nozzles clean?

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How's the selection of ship kits between 1/300 and 1/700?

How do I go about sculpting a ship figurehead probably less than 15mm tall. Green stuff and wire? Would it be safe to airbrush afterwards? Needs to be gold

>>6235841
A wire stuck in a cork should be useful for that. You can use any number of 2 part putties but you'll want to get something that isn't grainy. At least a couple of shaping tools. You could probably use toothpicks with the ends carved to whatever shape you need.
The airbrushing part kind of depends on a few factors but the bottom line is paint thickness.

>>6235845
I have Tamiya epoxy as well as their lacquer one which is probably a bad idea considering paint and thinner would blast it away

>>6235641
Contemplating the derfflinger. Do that one next

>>6235367
I use a patriot 105 and it's a trooper and quite good, I have no idea what are you referring to with that nozzle thing.
The patriot nozzle is conical and it's kept in place by the nozzle head, the other I have is a chink copy of some fancy iwata with a 0.15 needle and is nozzle is kept in place with a thread as it's small as fuck. If that's what you are referring to my guess it's that depends of the size, they wouldn't put such a small piece without a fixation.
And a smaller needle/nozzle means more precision so better pulverization, but unless you are doing high precision freehand patterns or really small stuff it's better a bigger one to work faster and easier to mantain

>>6235778
scalemates.com

>>6235877
I'm probably going to build a Hasegawa Myoko next, I got a photo etch set coming in the mail for it. After that maybe though, if I'm not sick and tired of building ships by then.

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>its an inbox review episode

i would bleed my dick for proper, indepth reviews of kits

>>6235956
If you want that in video your best bet is build vids as you can see most of what you can encounter

>>6224989
>This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) model kits
where do i go for scale RC models?

>>6235992
If you don't see a thread that fits, make one.

Remora received a few decals. Made the executive decision to not add LEDs, as the area below the engines is too tight for the wiring. Its ashame, because the LEDs, switch and battery fit nicely. Its just the actual wiring that takes up too much space. Might still attempt something but it doesnt look hopeful.

Need to start weathering soon but not shre what I want to do just yet. Not had good results with dot filters but a nice burnt umber wash will help a lot. Mostly just stared at it over the qeekend and made no decisions.

Anyone got any recommendations for compressors?

I was looking at the Sparmax 610H it looks perfect in terms of price and function.

Then a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2 in 1 for the brush

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Nooooooooooooooo
I can't even put it straight while glued, now I have to take it off, sand the glue off, straight it and glue it again. And I don't even know how it got dented.

Also
>Dear blog, today I went to my lhs to see if my shit arrived and while I was there I saw some meng kits extremely cheap, particularly the panzerhaubitze 2000, a7v, merkava with mineroller and the ft-17 with the base were all under 47€. I wanted to buy but something inside me just said "you don't even care about those, why you want them m8?" And I listened, I found my long lost self control today.
Thanks for reading and don't forget to subscribe and be my patron on patreon!
Tho I think I will regret not buying them some day...

>>6236530
Take it off and drop it in a cup filled with acetone. It will dissolve the CA glue, then you can flatten out the piece again. I've done this many times.

>>6236530
Dont get the ft17

>>6236619
I didn't think of the acetone, thanks! This will reduce my fear of making it worse while sanding.
>>6236626
I had that one (it's the rivet turret with a trench one) and the a7v on the counter as both would been only 70something (33 the ft and 40 the a7v), then I wanted the pzhb2000 but I wasn't really convinced and ended leaving them all there.

I though that the ft-17 was a pretty popular kit tho, I saw one build here and he encountered some problems but I don't remember it as extremely bad, but I might be wrong.

>>6236301
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-Piston-Airbrush-Compressor-with-Tank-1-3-HP/271788952594

>>6236653
>saw one build here

That was me. I cant really recommend it. Idk about the A7 but Id imagine thatd be an incredibly boring build

>>6236661
That's the thing with those kits! I just wanted them mostly to try meng and do something from wwI, but even the pzhb2000 felt empty and the merkava was also meh to me.
I suppose they are good those three, shame about the ft, the arty I've seen it build and looked impressive but once the initial shock passes its pretty dull in my opinion.
Still want to try something from them but I'm not sure what for this summer.
Also checked some 1/700 ships as the ones done by shipanon are truly impressive and are tempting me to get out of my comfort zone of afvs but shit looked so small in the box and I lack any naval related paint and experience. I looked at the hasegawa Mikasa and the LC Oi from aoshima as both looked interesting, maybe next year I will get a bit into ships

>>6236693
Im gonna do a ship next if I can find one I like. I'd like a nice ww1 dreadnought for that BF1 aesthetic

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>>6236530
>47 euros
>new meng kits arrive at LHS
>72+ euros

>>6236729
Then the mikasa might be for you, it's got a nice line and that dreadnought aesthetic
>>6236738
I was surprised to see meng on the low cost section as it's mostly comprised of a ton of random trumpeter kits and some Dragon of the weird ones. I thought they were a steal but if I don't like the subject the build wouldn't be enjoyable.

>>6236754
That's what's so odd to me. I love airplanes, they're my favorite vehicles by far but I hate building models of them. It may be because all the kits I get have really finicky and unstable landing gear

>>6235943
I was actually hoping for the thoughts and experiences of an experienced ship modeler. Scalemates is handy but has certain limitations

>>6236754
Mikasa actually looks nice. Also considering the 1/350 flower class corvette. I think a heavy seas diorama would be sick

Also whats the consensus on resin ship kits?

>>6236729
You can go with a Queen Elizabeth class, in their 1910's configurations.

are enamels the absolute best for handpainting?

>>6236984
No.

Who told you that?

It's like they want you to suffer.

It's like being told that oil paints are for beginners.

>>6235847
You can always test it out, I suppose. I never mixed the two materials before but I suspect that it might hold together well enough until it cures.

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>>6235841
Maybe get a block of soft wood and carve it yourself? I made these wolverine claws out of basswood a couple years ago with a dremel for halloween. I know basswood is soft enough to carve with a xacto knife and such.

>>6236984
>>6237090
enamel's aren't the worst for hand-brushing, most people that don't airbrush and are actually really good at hand-painting use enamels.There's a guy on Youtube that makes pretty convincing models with just handbrushing, can't think of his channel name right now though. His stuff isn't as good as airbrushing, but he knows how to thin his paints properly and get the paint looking really nice.

For a novice though, enamels aren't the best, standard acrylics like vallejo would be better suited for hand painting, as they clean up easier, don't smell and aren't toxic.

>>6237181
Quick kits?

>>6237183
yeah, I think that's the guy. I don't hand paint, but for anyone that does they should look at how he does it because he does it properly from what I can tell.

>>6237181
Not too surprising, oils blend very well. It's about understanding the characteristics of the medium and making use of them.

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Everything's about done, except for pigments and final touches. The decals were a bit problematic despite Micro Set/Sol.
Looking to finish the tank today or tomorrow.

Anyone know where the Warhammer thread is?

>>6237337
/tg/

>>6237322
Goddamn that's looking SWEET. Can't wait to see the final thing!

>>6237181
the guide on the plamo gen said enamels are bretty gud at handpainting and i cant seem to work with white aryclic at all so i gave my pieces a degreaser bath. It seems to dry in like 10 seconds and blotches up if i go over it again, never had this problem with enamels.

>>6237322
That looks amazing. well done.

i only do 1/72 armor, could i get away with just using a 0.2 needle for everything or should i get a 0.4 needle??

>>6236754
>Then the mikasa might be for you, it's got a nice line and that dreadnought aesthetic

Though it's a pre-dreadnought.

>>6237322
This build hits the spot, keep it up
>>6237337
Tg, search for the work in progress thread. The aos and 40k generals, especially the aos one, also have some builds and painting posts
>>6237407
My bad, not much into ships so if it's metal with turrets and pre WWII it's a dreadnoght to me hahahaha. But I guess it looks in general like what he wanted

>>6237418
>and pre WWII it's a dreadnoght to me hahahaha

Funnily enough, the WW2 ones ARE dreadnoughts ("all big guns" main armament and steam turbine propulsion being the key part). They just didn't use the term as much by then as there weren't really any pre-dreadnoughts left around.

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Cockpit got dirty due to masking liquid too thin BTW can you guys see that there is light grey over neutral gray or it just looks too similar that you cant see any difference

>>6237452
The grey looks nice. Its subtle and realistic

>>6237322
The preshading is a little too much. I think it's a tad too obvious, it jumps right out at me.

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i jerked off and this came out.

>>6237794
>using black
>painting heavy
>having paint spiders

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First resin kit.

Any one got any recommendations? I'm an experienced modeler, have a face mask, handheld vacuum cleaner and will put down news paper before I work on it.

Surprised how well the model is cast, I expected worse from Hong Kong.

>>6237181
>For a novice though, enamels aren't the best,
Even for intermediates, enamels aren't the best.

I used to do a lot of oil painting and using enamels, but it's so hard to go back because of how much time it takes to set up and then the drying time.
It's a real chore and not something i do anymore, unless i require durable paint.

I don't do oil paints now, but i don't do canvas stuff anymore anyway.

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>>6237814
Black and heavy should be fine for preshading though. Might be able to hide the spiders.

>>6237794
What scale is that? 1/72?
Could use a little work but it could also be worse.

>>6237825
Hong Kong resin kits tend to be pretty good, actually. You want to watch out for stuff in other places like the SE Asian places. I've got some weird brittle, grainy casts from there before.

You're going to want to wash/degrease the model first. Mr Surfacer is a pretty popular primer.

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I coated everything with a gloss coat for weathering and to seal the paint / protect it. While it cures overnight I'm going to start working on the base, should hopefully get it sanded down and coated in paper / medium gel by tonight. It's much smaller than the last base I worked on, which should make it easier / faster to finish.

>>6237906
Is that actually wood decking? Did it come with the kit?

>>6237916
I got a good deal on the kit from ebay that came with brass barrels and a wood deck sticker. Doesn't come with the kit though.

Where do y'all order your kits/accessories online that you get a good price on? The website I always use doesn't have good stock.

>>6237985
whoever is cheapest on amazon/ebay

Want to make a Lego minifigure scale model of the Silent Mary from POTC5 - any tips/pointers?

>>6238088
>>/you seem a bit lost m8/
or
>>6236955

>>6238090
Neither is about scale model replica's - all i'm asking is for help designing a pirate ship with around the same scale as those figures. It wont be populated with Lego or made of Lego - but i didnt have a measurement to hand for the size of the figures i own.

>>6238101
You want to make from zero(?) a plastic pirate ship in the same scale of the lego fig (whatever their height is applied to a real human proportions?) of the movie?
That's a pretty retarded question but I'm curious about your motivation for that fuckfest of idea

>>6238108
I tend to make them for a living, last one i made sold on Ebay covering costs plus a 30% profit.

Suprisingly, a large market exists for movie-based vessels and it appears that The Silent Mary will be the main ship in the movie - other than the Black Pearl though several model kits already exist for that.

>>6237922
I was about to say. I would have been super impressed if a kit came with wood decking in-box. It looks nice

>>6237985
I shop around but I find that hobbyeasy.com has pretty competitive prices. A lot of what I get from them is photo etch and barrels though.

>>6237985
It depends on what I'm buying. If it's Chinese stuff like Trumpeter / Hobby Boss / Flyhawk / Meng / whatever, or Japanese stuff like Tamiya / Hasegawa, they're a lot cheaper to order off ebay or Japanese websites like HLJ, ebay usually gets better shipping though even if it takes a long time to get.

Otherwise, since I'm in the US if I want a new kit fast I usually use Spruebrothers, or Scalehobbyist, though spruebrothers is a lot easier to browse. I like Spruebrothers because they ship very quickly if I need something now, otherwise, I get almost all my paint / tools from my local hobby shop.

>>6238088
Need more information. What kind of materials are you thinking about using? You'll need a bunch of reference and draw out plans. Scale-wise, you'll need to measure the height of a Lego character and then cross reference it with the approximate size for what you consider the average height of a human male. I think most standards for scale tend to set it at roughly 6 feet.

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I decided to use a thinner piece of styrofoam for the base. I've already sanded it down to create "waves" and covered it in printer paper / medium gloss varnish.

I'm going to try and not fuck up this base like I did the last one, I'm aiming to be far more subtle with the waves / foam and whatnot.

Does anyone have any tips for mixing ocean water colors though? I don't really know where to begin, I used XF-17 with a base, lightened with XF-2 and XF-18 last time. I think I'm going to go for something more green in tint this time though since the Naiad would have been operating in the Atlantic / Mediterranean.

>>6238132
what have you made previously?

>>6237814
>>having paint spiders
the orings on my airbrush are torn, so it either shits all over or doesn't paint at all.

>>6237851
>What scale is that? 1/72?
yes, italeri 083.

>>6238132
If you've done it so many times before for profit why do you need help?

>>6238240
I'm tellin you man. Black base, dark blue, and minty greens.

Love that paper technique. I wasn't able to get it to work the time I tried. I wanna do another ship soon

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Did a light wash over it doing decals now

>>6238529
Looks pretty good actually

>>6238531
Too bad the cockpit and canopy looks like ass

>>6237985
I have a pretty big list with alot of german online stores and if i need a kit i check them if they have it for a good price and compare that with ebay and asian sellers on amazon.com or japanese/HK based stores. If Asia is cheaper by more than 5€ then i order there.
Sometimes the home market is cheaper, but in most cases i end up ordering from Asia. Sucks but thats how it is.

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Going real slow on the weathering.

Finished it with a matt varnish coat to remove decal gloss
>>6238601
I wish i had a chance to redo the cockpit but fate decide to fuck me up in the form of the masking fluid being blown by the airbrush while painting

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>>6238668
Oops forgot pic
Looks like time to go back to good ole masking tape

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>>6238671
Side pic

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>>6238671
>>6238677
That raised panel outlining makes my brain do sounds generally associated with heavy machinery suddenly finding itself full of gravel.

>>6238696
I couldnt figure out what didnt look right with it. That's it.

This has got me fucked up. I cannot find a single model kit of a tractor. Not one. I'd love to build one, but all i'm finding are die-cast collectibles. Has anyone else heard of tractor model kits? Weathering them would be amazing.

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>>6238744
There's a 1/24 Heller tractor
Some company released a 1/35 US tractor and there are a few Resin alternatives. Balaton model for example. They do a few resin tractors in 1/72 and 1/35. I believe Plus model also has at least one

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>>6238753
Plus model Earth mover in 1/35.

>>6238753
>>6238762
oh shit, thanks man, i'm gonna have to check out those resin boys

>>6238766
You need to check Wespe if you go the resin route:

https://www.wespemodels.com/civilian_models/civilian_models_scale_1_32_35

(they do other scales too, but i assume 1/35 is the best choice)

>>6238744
http://www.thepartsbox.com/store/index.php?page=browse&action=list&group=15&cat=57

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/135303-trumpeter-05538-chtz-s-65-tractor

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1008709-thunder-model-35001-tractor-case-vai

And for shit to weather, there's always thigns like this https://www.scalemates.com/kits/936417-miniart-35195-u-s-army-bulldozer especially if sold off into civilian hands after the military's done with it, and then kept around for another thirty or so years.

I need some tiny circles approx 1/4 inch in diameter and maybe 1/16 thick. Any idea where I could get something like that? Maybe cut off sections of a tube and fill it in? Ideally I'd like to have a grove in it but I might be able to scratch that

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>>6238789
Get a 1/4" hole punch or something like that and a 1/16" thick plasticard.

Weird request: anyone got some 1/35 cats they're willing to sell? Seen a few online but I dont want to pay 25 bucks for a aet of 5 when I only need 2.

>>6235475
I really really like what you've done so far.

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Oh fuck, anons, I'm making a Revell 1/72 Nashorn and I accidentally let glue flow onto the rough textured bits.

I tried to scratch a similar rough texture in with the point of an exacto knife but it looks terrible, applied a bit of thin paint to see it better and show how big the spot is.

Anyone have examples of storage boxes or some other object you'd see on this sort of vehicle that I can scratch build to cover it up?

>>6238955
I don't have examples, but it being an open top afv it would be common to have several kinds of tarps to cover the compartment so you can do one and put it there. Or just pile some jerry cans, but you will need to put a cord or scratch build the holder.
They used to carry around a lot of crap so don't worry much but don't put have the wehrmacht inventory there neither

>>6238974
>>6238955
Do that

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>>6238744
Selection isn't that great, but there's a few companies that make Army tractors. This company (thunder model) for example has a few kits, Mini Art has one as well I think. Meng makes an Israeli armored bulldozer kit.

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>>6238974
>>6239041
I was too lazy to do that so I just made a crappy little box based on one mounted on the rear of panzer IIs.

>>6239163
That works too

>>6235006
Do you have any other pics

Working on aome rigging with thread. How can I accurately make a slack line?

>>6239526
Jesus this thread died. I use some really thin picture hanging wire for my rigging. Problem is it's very flexible, which makes your kit hard to handle after application. You can get a spool of 100ft for a dollar or so at Lowe's or Home Depot. To get the curvature, I'd bend it around a frisbee or something that has a really large diameter

>>6240077
I tried soaking in thinned out pva glue and then weight it down but it looks slightly unnatural

>>6240094
Pics ?

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>>6239163
Perfectly fine.

Check pic related for examples of tarps/rolls.

Not sure if there are sets of these in 1/72 but i bought a generic set of stowage in 1/48 and got like 30 pieces of stuff to put on my tanks.

somebody please make new thread? I do not have means.

is tamiya extra thin cement mostly MEK/Butanone?

>>6240252
Yes.

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>>6240095

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>tfw you didn't clean up your wash before work caught up with you again

Paint thinner can get rid of dried enamel after a few days, right?

Apologies for newfagging

>>6240563
If your clear coat was rough you're fucked, bucko

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Alright I have this, and I'm ready to spray it german dark yellow, but I want it to be a winter scene.

I've never done armor, or let alone winter anything, so what are some things I should do to make it snowy? Cover it in fake snow?

I'm overwhelmed by looking at examples on google

>>6240252
hm, hows MEK compare to acetone as glue? For my most recent build I've been using acetone. Maybe I should give MEK a try.

>>6240904
>>6240252
>>6240353
Looking on the bottle of my Tamiya Extra thin, it says it contains acetone and Butyl acetate, not methyl ethyl ketone.

I would just use Tamiya cement rather than mixing your own, it's not that expensive and one bottle lasts a long ass time.

>>6240924
heh, I've been getting into chemistry recently so ive been working on mixing my own even if its not as good, cause its more fun to make your own

>>6240724
Hairspray technique or Chipping fluid
Paint the vehicle base dark yellow then apply hairspray or chipping fluid
Let it settle then 2nd Winter coating of white
Let it Dry use a brush to remove the white paint as if chipping

>>6240724
>Cover it in fake snow?
don't use the Christmas tree spray snow if that's what youre asking, it will crack and go yellow.

>>6240724
>spray it german dark yellow
would that even happen? yellow in snowy conditions? I would assume yellow would be for desert conditions no?

>>6241107
Winter camo was almost always applied in the field over whatever paint was already there.

>>6241107
The Germans ended up using dunkelgelb as their standard base colour everywhere.

>>6240724
>fake snow
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCF298G1YWuEXHFq0fFWv-Aw/videos
I'll give shout outs to these guys as long as they keep producing this stuff, it's amazing.

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i've spend almost 2.5 hours painting this bastard's face. does he look ok to you kind anons?
and i know that he has this "that was not fart" expression but it's more of sculpt fault than painting.

>>6241212
Would it work better with the eyelids closed as if he's listening intensely rather than looking zombified?

>>6241212
What scale is this?

>>6241235
1/16 technically but more like 1/18
>>6241225
i think problem lays more in mouth than eyes. maybe i'll make his lips bit bigger. that should do the thing

>>6241237
In that case I can't tell if its good or not. Looks like the biggest problem is sculpting, but it really looks like 1/35.

This is not a good thing.

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>>6241212
Looks okay.
If you're bothered by the expression, try shifting the eyes down and to the side while drooping the lids? See pic

>>6241270
Lolol

>>6241107
Dunkelgelb translates into "dark yellow" but in fact it was more of a green-yellow-brown mixture and it was used for the entire year in central europe because it blends in pretty well.

In times of winter they usually applied a coat of white paint which would wear off during the cause of the winter. (see >>6240100)