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Gunpla/Plamo General

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Thread replies: 343
Thread images: 79

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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some line art: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/


Old thread: >>6121319
>>
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***Non-Gundam Group Build***

So this is pretty straightforward, build something that isn't Gundam. I literally do not care what it is, if it's not Gundam it counts (and just to get this out of the way, Bandai is fine). I do not require full paint jobs this time either, as I know the vast majority of people here build Bandai and that's it.

This is also not a prize build, but a regular group build.


Submit to [email protected].
Due Date: March 1st, 2017.
>>
>>6128695
Anyone know if i can buy this on shapeways? Plus maybe some other rodi variant conversion kits?

Also, should i buy the MG shin musha, or the MG musha?

And should i buy the RG red astray or one of the various MG red astrays?

Thanks.
>>
>>6128875
>no
>no
>no
>>
>>6128878
Thank you very much. Could you please elaborate?
>>
>>6128882
1. I do not know if you can buy it on shapeways, nor do I know if you can get some other rodi variant conversion kits.
2. I do not think you should buy either one.
3. I do not think you should buy those.
>>
>>6128894
Okay, my question was 'of these options, which is best'. Aka here's what I'm looking at, i can't buy them all/don't want to buy all of them, help me decide which to choose, or else explain the issues with whichever kit and allow me to make my own conclusions about whether that kit is worth the money.

What are your issues with the kits I'm looking at? Mechanical/design issues or personal opinion?

Why does this have to be like pulling teeth. Help.
>>
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>>6128910
Astrays are ugly.
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>>6128937
Get memed bud. I'm going to try again tomorrow.

I actually like the red astray, the others not so much. Blue and green are boring, that purple one is cool though.
>>
I'm moderately experienced with plamo, but I'm getting more interested in it. But most of my collection is girl figures. Are there any really good cute girl kits out there, particularly jointed ones? Anime or western, I like both, the only thing I'm not really terribly into is the overly robotic look like Frame Arms Girl.
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>>6128910

MG Astray Red is not a bad build. The mech itself is pretty flexible and well balanced. The gigantic sword thing might be a little awkward but it's compatible with the included stand.

It is kinda pricey, depending on where you get it, and i have no idea what the RG is like, but the MG has that big-ass transforming sword thingy and has its parts big enough so even a hamhanded moron like me could build it.

it also has lots of decals.
>>
>>6128971
>frame arms girl
>overly robotic

what am i reading
>>
>>6128971
>overly robotic
what is this new meme
>>
how does one install the LED units? given their odd outer shape, i figured they must twist and lock into place, but it looks like they just sit there under the neck. specifically asking regarding MG origin rx-78, the tab for the on/off switch snags a ridge in the torso making it a hassle to remove. have thought about glueing it in place
>>
>>6128875
Unless you want the giant sword that comes with the MG, get the RG. The MG Shin Musha is quite fun, but it is slightly dated engineering wise, and if you want it look good, you'll have to paint some details at least.
>>
>>6128973
Sounds good! MG Radstray it is. I was on the fence about the RG's weird frame anyway. Thanks!

>>6128996
Well i just finished an MG ramba ral zaku I a few days ago, so I'm fine with anything outdated. At least anything made after 1994. Not 100% sure about the shin musha, I'm not going to buy it now but i probably will some day. Thanks!
>>
>>6128827
you don't need markers to clean up nub marks. just sand well and you won't be able to see them.
read the guide.
>>
Trying to repair a figma hand with a crack in it. On average, how long does it take for Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to cure (ie how long should I leave the hand to dry for)?
>>
>>6129200
Are the hands PVC or plastic? I dont think they use plastics that cement would react with

more than 3 hours would do
>>
>>6129210
PVC I believe. Someone in the figma gen said to use it, tried it overnight and it worked at first but after a while the crack reopened. So I'm not sure if I didn't leave it for long enough or something else.
>>
>>6129213
They sound like retards. Tamiya's cements are primarily made for Polystyrene, which reacts to fucking everything. AFAIK PVC doesn't react much, if at all, to most solvents, which is why it's a commonly used engineering plastic. It may work but it'll be an incredibly weak bond.

Your only option is to pin the part with tiny pins and then use super glue or epoxy to glue it together.
>>
>>6129221
Huh.

I don't have any access to pinning tools (neither do I really even know how to pin something this small), and from experience superglue alone doesn't work.
>>
>>6129225
Superglue doesn't work because PVC doesn't react to anything.

It'll work better if you pre-treated it with something like a lacquer thinner. But I'm not sure if you should with the cement already applied there. Ideally you'd sand the surface of the PVC, clean it with something to remove grease, and then clean it with a solvent. Since it's a crack there's not much you can do.

You can just use needles to pin something really small. Have you considered putting the part in hot water and then just pushing the needle in?

In any case, you're dealing with a really hard fix.
>>
>>6129232
Currently trying to do some research but I seriously can't find any info on the material figma hands are made out of. There's a decent chance that I'm wrong and it is made out of ABS. Asked the figma thread, waiting for a response.

It's an insanely tiny crack, and the only reason I'm trying to deal with it is because it's affecting the hand's ability to hold an accesory. Otherwise I wouldn't particularly pay attention to it. So I'm not sure if I can really do any of those due to the size of it alone.
>>
>>6129232
I'm sure theres PVC glue out there somewhere, the problem will be the surface finish

>>6129242
Check your box, it should have the plastics used listed on it, its likely PVC. Google for a clear PVC glue, and try your luck.
>>
>>6129248
The box lists PVC, ABS, POM and PP. So that's 4 different types of plastic.
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>>6129249
POM is a rigid plastic often used for joints because it has enough flex to be highly break/shatter resistant but otherwise rigid. ABS is a hard plastic, and is almost always rigid.

The hands are probably PVC or PP.
>>
>>6129252
POM sounds like the stuff the joints in the figure are made of. And ABS is probably the majority of the figure.

How good is PP at reacting with standard plastic cement? Any glues I should look for?

Also, this crack is on the inside of the hand so finish isn't an issue. It just needs to not leave residue and be strong enough to hold accessories.
>>
>>6129249
The figure, the stand, the joints and the plastic packaging

>>6129252
A cursory google search says that figmas are painted ABS and PVC

>>6129253
>crack is inside the hand
What, so this just means your joint is loose?
Then in that case there are much easier ways to fix it.
>>
>>6129256
Ah, that makes much more sense then. Thanks for the breakdown of the different plastics.

It's not really the joint that's loose. Basically, the hand is a holding-type hand that's meant to hold a bow, by sliding the bow through the thumb and the middle finger. However, the crack means that the 3 fingers that are molded together starting from the middle finger are loose, and don't hold the bow well. Gluing the fingers back into place holds temporarily but trying to slide the back through the thumb and middle finger assembly just causes the crack to open again.
>>
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>>6129261
Pic is the hand. So basically the bow slides between the thumb and the three molded fingers. You can sort of make out the crack seam in this photo (it's that very tiny line).
>>
>>6129264
If the little armory hands are anything to go by they're PVC

Buy PVC glue, use a really fine applicator like a needle, very gently pry open the crack if you can and dab with glue. Press together and quickly wipe off the excess that spills out

If it breaks then its time to pin
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>>6129267
Right, I'll go looking for PVC glue tomorrow then. I hope they sell that stuff at DIY shops, I might have the chance to go to one tomorrow.
>>
>>6129267
The hand itself should be PVC but the hinge+peg part is probably ABS or POM. More likely ABS.
>>
>>6129267
>>6129268
Also, just an extra question, but if I do manage to find the PVC glue, how long should I leave it to dry for?
>>
Question, if I've shortened one end of an antennae too short on my HG Kimaris Trooper and I'd like to elongate it back, what's the easiest way to do that and which tools would I need?

I figure I'd need a pla plate and cement. I wouldn't want to buy another kit just to fix a slight symmetrical error on the antennae...
>>
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>>6128788
oh my kit made it to the OP

another shot with decent lightning

also, these cyber formula kits may be a good option to any fan, as they are like 2000 yen each
the variable action reproduction of megahouse are like 10k yen each, although you can transform those in the different modes they use in the show
>>
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gay
>>
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Just finished my first MG in over a decade. I used to do a bunch of HGs of mostly Gundam Wing and G Gundam stuff back in middle school. I did do one MG of Shining Gundam and remember having a very tough time with it. The RX-78-02 was a very enjoyable build and got me back on the plastic crack addiction. Just got done order the Gundam Mk II 2.0 as my next kit. AEUG version. I want to pick up the RX-79 Ground Gundam and the RX-93 Nu Gundam. I'll probably need to get some Zakus and Char's Sazabi if I'm gonna also get Nu. Oh what a slippery slope.

Don't bully, it's my first MG in a decade and I still need to panel line it and build the weapons. Any good recommendations for getting rid of nub marks?
>>
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Is thos guy good? Or should I get either Geirail or Hekija?
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>>6129672
Its pretty cool. It has landman legs coming in an option set in a couple of months too.
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>>6129692
Isn't that option set contains Gusion's tifles too?
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>>6129701
Yes.
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>MFW when no time to build till summer.
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>>6129732
I feel you. Over half the kits in my backlog I want to paint but it's too cold here. The only thing I can actually build are RGs.
>>
>>6129732
>TFW no compressor
>snap build, weld and line, but still have to topcoat
It's kind of frustrating staring at a kit that's like 80% finished until it stops being cold.
>>
>>6129331
pls help
>>
I'm thinking of getting the HG Gyan and HG Zaku II. Are those good kits?

Background: New to Gunpla, but was a fan of G Gundam for awhile. I used to build Zoids and tried an SD Gundam kit before. I usually get action figures or small figurines, but I like these since you get better mileage out of each figure. I'm just worried about stub marks and getting the right supplies. I'm going to look into the guide and online videos though.
>>
>>6129331
>>6129934
Simple answer: Tell anyone who asks that it's a custom.
>>
What do you guys do when you break a vital piece and can't repair it? Can you take the kit back to the store where you bought it?
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>>6129963
>and can't repair it?
I'm not sure I quite understand this sentence.
>>
>>6129968
I think this means they're out of repair fluid.
>>6129963
go buy more repair fluid
>>
The upper arm on my HG 1/100 Epyon is broken and can't be repaired. I also have a HG 1/144 rx-78-2 with a broke skity piece. Can I return them to the shop and exchange them for new ones? I bought them at Model Cave in Ypsilanti Michigan.
>>
>>6129963
What's the piece?
>>
>>6129942
taking any serious and useful tips or tutorials anytime now
>>
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WHO JAEGER HERE
http://schizophonic9.com/re4/plamax_gipsydanger.html
>>
>>6130013
Just buy some plastic cement, it's basic stuff.
>>
The part of my Epyon that's broken is the upper arm--it's mangeled and can't be fixed. The left front skirt piece of the HG rx-77 is broken and can't be glued. Where do I get replacement parts?
>>
>MG 1/100 Freedom Z.A.F.T. ZGMF - X10A
>RG 1/100 Sinanju
>NG 1/100 Grimgerde
>HG 1/144 Kimaris
>HG 1/144 Barbatos
>HG 1/144 Schwalbe Graze


These are all the kits I've done so far, only been doing Gunpla for about maybe 6 months now.. Freedom 2.0 has been my favorite so far, followed by Sinanju, and then 1/144 Barbatos after that, I believe

Graze and Kimaris were my first two, and they kinda felt lackluster? And Grimgerde... Heard great things about the kit, but it was way too simple I think, beautiful kit but way too easy

What should I work on next? I've had muuultiple people recommend the RX-78 "The Origin", and my local B&N has that one on display and it is just so ugly to me, way too simple looking, I don't have an airbrush and I'm not ruining a kit with hand painting, and I'm novice at panel washing

My question is: What to do next? I was thinking of doing the other Barbatos: Lupus and 1/100 Barbatos, and the 1/144 6th Form, in preparation for the final Barbatos coming out this year, but I don't know how I feel about having so many of the same guy... or I was thinking either MG 1/100 Strike Rouge Ootori Ver. RM or MG 1/100 Astray Red Frame Gundam Kai....

tl;dr wall of text what kit to do next? freedom 2.0 and sinanju were fun and challenging
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>>6130046
post pictures
>>
I can't post pictures because I threw the broken parts away already.

Any more suggestions you people might have?
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>>6130096
How did these things get broken in the first place?
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>>6130096
Find a different hobby
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>>6128987

I get what they were going for there, but holy shit the head is beyond terrible and the sleeves could really use some work. The black parts are all really out of place, too.

I also probably would have gone with a sword shaped like a haraigushi instead of a broom.
>>
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Does anyone know if there is a guide to kitbash in the proportions of NX EDGE style? Closest I've seen is kitbashing an SD with its HG equivalent but there seem to be modifications that are out of my level.
>>
>>6129940
HG REvive Gyan is really good, the hguc is cheap andeasy to build like gm, the HG origins Zakus are better detailed with more articulation and gear.
>>
>>6129672
I can't say much for the other two but the Man Rodi is pretty awesome and you've got the upgrades to turn it into a Landman in the pipeline. It's a cute lil kit though
>>
>>6130184
Not really, kitbashing is essentially creating something wanted from existing kits. I you want it, you gotta make it yourself
>>
>>6130027
Epoxy putty and paint
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>>6129746
>The only thing I can actually build are RGs.

Because RGs don't require painting?
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>>6130197
Guess I'll just use that yt vid I saw as reference
>>
>>6130184
If modding joints/connections are beyond your level, you won't be able to kitbash things like that.
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>>6130273
IMO RGs aren't worth the effort to paint
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>>6130036
In a dark time for Bandai internal frame detailing....Max Factory comes through and saves the fucking day.
>>
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so i've got no plastic model experience whatsoever, but i saw these at a convention recently and couldn't resist picking them up.

where do i even get started? i figured i'd pick up some enamel paints and thinner and try to get as close to the sample pictures as possible, but is there really anything more to it than that? should i assemble them before painting or afterwards? they look pretty tiny, maybe two and a half inches once they're all pieced together.
>>
>>6130329
You will regret trying to use enamels.
>>
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>>6130329
You should probably read the guide in OP post. But you proooobably wanna paint before assembling for stuff like this. When they're separate pieces, it'll be easier to get into the nooks and crannies without hitting other stuff with your brush.

Also, don't use enamels. I would probably use Citadel or Vallejo paints. Remember to thin them appropriately and not paint straight out of the pot. And since you're new to this, I would probably go for a wash technique like people do on miniatures. Paint all these up in simple flat colors (ie, Chico's shirt with be yellow, his hair brown, his skin tan). Then just give the entire figure a brushover with a wash (or a very very thinned paint). It will seep into the cracks, make the details pop, etc. This skeleton is a bit of an extreme example but you get my point. Do some further reading on this in the guide in OP post and by googling "miniature wash technique."
>>
>>6130294
Only gipsy had the full frame. Cherno only had partial torso frame and some of the joints were ugly.
>>
>>6130369
>>6130376
thanks for the advice, not sure why i thought enamels were the way to go. i always hated painting with acrylics in other contexts, but i guess there is a reason those are the standard.

i'll look into the technique suggested. like i said, i have no experience with model painting so i've got no idea what to even google for this sort of thing.
>>
>>6130393
Yeah I have that covered in the guide up top. But how big are these things, that changes how you'd want to approach it.
>>
>>6130400
they are 1/35 scale
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>>6130400
He mentioned they're about 2.5" tall.
>>
>>6130451
I saw, I'm just trying tow work how if they're gonna want to bother with airbrushing or hand paint, but the figure I see is about 2" tall, so probably just go for hand painting.
>>
>>6130463
yeah, they are pretty small. that's why i was unsure if it would be better to assemble first or not. it almost sounds harder to paint many small separate pieces than one complex one at a more manageable size. but i'll definitely trust your judgment.
>>
>>6130462
Must've missed that.

>>6130483
Yeah, go for assembly and then stick to miniature painting techniques for this one.
>>
>>6130235
hey anon thanks. I looked up some tutorials and wondered if this would work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8E64rsyuTo8

I have plenty of runner leftovers and some cement, so was wondering if this would work the same way as the epoxy putty you recommend. I imagine it would be to add the length back with the epoxy and sanding it back down, then painting the entire piece so they don't look patched up.
>>
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>>6130509
That tutorial is missing a crucial part: the cement must be 100% solvent, NO resin fillers.
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>>6130509
>would work the same way as the epoxy putty
No.
>>
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Grab them while they last.

http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?scode=TOL-5666
>>
>>6130526
>>6130527
alright, thanks anons. I guess I'll be getting epoxy putty.

I'm wondering if another way for me to do this is to actually cut it flat, and glue a narrow part of the runner of the same color to the antennae then sand it down to shape.
>>
>>6130036
The only good mech design in this movie was Alpha Chernobyl (or whatever it was called).

Prove me wrong.
>>
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What are the strangest Gunpla kits out there?

Strange in terms of weird quirks, odd designs, weird scales, unusual gimmicks, etc.

Pic semi-related, it's a Gundam.
>>
>>6130670

you need to define your question better
>>
>>6130670
Back in the 80s, a lot of kits had 1/220th scale renditions.
>>
>>6129672
Absolutely! It's a simple but fun build and afine figure. I've seen some people say the feet can't really go from side, but I've had an easy time with that, which makes it really easy for it to hold wide-stance poses.
>>
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Broken figma hand anon here, went to the DIY store. I couldn't find any actual PVC cement, however I managed to find pic related which is apparently designed to work on PVC. Anyone have any experience with it?
>>
>>6130699
are you in Japan? might be easier to just order a replacement hand from GSC
>>
>>6130714
I don't live in Japan, I live very closeby though.

Unfortunately this figure is pretty old, which means that GSC will refuse to supply replacements. They're also pretty damn stingy about giving out replacements even if it's a brand new and recently released figure.
>>
>>6130730
didn't GSC sell figma hands and feet at their store?

hate to tell you that but if the hand is going to be under stress again, the glue will not help and pinning something as tiny as a figma hand is probably not a good idea (not enough material for the pin to hold on to) you'll just end up destroying the hand

your best bet is a replacement (from another figma) or a recast using semi-rigid resin
>>
>>6130673
What about the question is hard to understand?

Weird gimmick is literally what it sounds like -- as in, say, it transforms from SD to a standard 1/144 Gundam or it's made up of three smaller animals. Odd design as in it looks somewhat out-of-place next to standard Gundam/Zaku models (think, say, the hygogg or the Guntank). Weird scale (or size, I should have said) as in it's notably bigger or smaller than other kits of its scale, like the Nightingale or the Neo Zeong.
>>
>>6130742
Only hands, but those are basically designed to work with the Little Armory line and aren't actually replacements for the actual figure's hands. Also this is a specialized hand designed to hold a specific accesory.

The hand won't really be under too much stress, it just needs to have a decent bond in order to grip onto the bow and be able to stand the fingers being under pressure every once in a while when and if the bow is taken out. That's all really.
>>
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>http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10442464
>pre-painted PVC
WHY
>>
>>6130825
because its marketed for the little armory figmas
>>
>>6130751
>designed to work with the Little Armory line
>specialized hand designed to hold a specific accesory
>broke when holding bow
>Little Armory doesn't make bows
I'm starting to think that breaking is an expected behavior here
>>
>>6130829
No you dolt, read the post again
>>
>>6130829
No no, let me explain.

This figure comes with a specific hand shape that's designed to work with a bow, that the figure also comes with. He asked if figma sold replacement or spare hands seperately, in which I said yes, however those spare and seperate hands only work with LA accessories, and therefore would be unsuitable for this situation.

Either way I'm waiting for this PVC glue to cure so lets hope it works. Box says 24 hours for strongest bond.
>>
>>6130825
Hmm maybe this might have something to do with it.
>>
So now you morons discuss figmas on a gunpla thread?

Fucking idiots, i swear.
>>
>>6130871
>If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
Well I mean, the main discussion at hand is fixing a PVC piece, and PVC is plastic isn't it?
>>
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What is the proper way to maintain and sharpen my blades? I'm on my second HG kit and already I'm noticing my nub removal isn't as clean. Little indents about the size of a pin-prick are sometimes left behind, suggesting the plastic was more so torn away rather than cut off.
>>
>>6130949
You buy new blades unless you wanna take up sharpening as a hobby
>>
>>6130949
The difference between a $20 dollar nipper vs a $2 wire cutter is mostly the precision of the machines grinding the edge.
>>
>>6130670
Hmm, speaking of gimmicks, in-universe can this suit shoot its rocket launcher from its back-mounted position? That'd be cool despite limited use.
>>
>>6130871
Repairing toys is more relevant to plamo than your snapshit
>>
>>6130871
you gonna cry?
>>
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>devoting brainpower to translate experience with repairs on Gundams to figma
>devoting any energy at all to complain against this
I wonder who isn't using their brain here.
It's just asking for some advice, not de-railing the thread. Even if figma made Gundam characters (hearty laugh) the thread wouldn't turn into a figma thread, worry not.
>>
Has anyone ever made Bionicle inspired Gundam? (Gundam lookalikes made with Bionicle don't count)
I feel as though a number of masks, especially the simpler first/Mata series could be translated into good themes. Actually, more than that, unique faces and "vent" styles on them.
>>
im getting a problem, to many kits, storing is a problem now, accesoris and etc etc, y dont have all of them on display at the same time but i have a rotation each 4 months...How do you people storage stuff and how do you make sure to not brake/lost stuff.
>>
>>6131009
kitbash so you have a higher kits per completed model ratio

slap the rest into seperate ziplocks or takeout containers
>>
>>6130949
MG when?
>>
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>>
>>6130047
Get rid off your shite taste
>>
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>>6130096
>threw the broken parts away already
You need to be 18 to post on this site.

>>6130670
>weird quirks, odd designs, weird scales, unusual gimmicks
>posts a Mark-II
>the most Gundam most similar to the 0079 Gundam

>>6130746
>Mk-II
>does not transform
>most similar to RX-78-2
>normal sized
I think the question you wanted was "What are the least strange Gunpla kits out there?"

Yes, I'm reeling them all in
>>
>>6129615
Everytime someone doesn't read the guide, this happens. For only 5$ a month you can save 5 MG Gundams from being butchered like this. Call now, please. They need your help. And so do their owners.
>>
>>6131100
I said "Pic semi-related, it's a Gundam," not "pic related, it's a strange Gundam."
>>
>>6130047
I'd move away from IBO for now.
Get a Zaku 2.0.
Had a look at the RX-78-2 3.0 instead? Bit more busier looking than the Origin and perhaps a bit closer to the narrower designs you seem to have gravitated towards.
Or even go for a Unicorn to compliment your Sinanju, or stay 'Char' and go for a Sazabi.
>>
Once again Im not really a fan of the IBO kits but this is one of the nicest HG arms I've seen. Also liking the MGS Sahelanthropus like head.
>>
How's the RG Zaku II? I'm tempted to pick one up after a very pleasant RG MK-II build.

Also, which Zaku do I go for? I'm torn between the red/green.
>>
>>6131517

Most people aren't huge fans of the RG Zaku II, but I think it's mostly because of the tube rings. There's nothing WRONG with them, but don't expect anything RG to top the Mk. II.
>>
>>6131337
I've never been a fan of how Zaku looks, but I've heard great things about the kit and I think I might try it out, and the RX-78-2 3.0 does look a lot better from the pictures I've seen online

I would love to do the Unicorns as well, I love all their designs and I drool over the PG 1/60 Full Psycho Frame Unicorn everytime it gets posted

Was also looking at the Sazabi, it's also very pretty, but thanks for the actual feedback!! My next one will definitely be one of these
>>
>>6131551
Tube rings, eh? Is it an aesthetic problem or a structural problem? I'm not too fond of them, but the rest of the kit looks damn near perfect.

>don't expect anything RG to top the Mk. II.

Yeah, by all accounts, I've heard the Mk. II is the best RG kit.
>>
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>>6131597
From what I've gathered, the Zaku looks good and has that nice monoeye gimmick
The building process has some parts loose until the part is assembled and doing anything with the kit ends with shrapnel
I'm assuming what the other anon meant by the tubing is having to cut out and sand every bead, there's also no replacement for the head beads which are smaller.
It's also marking sticker hell but that's a given for an RG

If you want a Zaku II with nice details that you can play around with you should turn to char's origin HG or an MG zaku 2.0
>>
>>6130670
MG wise? Turn A.
Its design, the way it comes together and the gimmicks are pretty unique to it.
>>
>>6131069
No matter what they do, the fumina kit in any incarnation will look creepy till they start doing something about the face like system injection molding or water slide eyes.
>>
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I haven't posted in forever but I finished my TIE Fighter haha
>>
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>>6131703
>>
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>>6131704
>>
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>>6131709
ended up using a wash for this cause jesus christ bandai
>>
>>6131703
>>6131704
>>6131709
>>6131712
that looks fucking awesome
>>
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>>6131712
>dat fucking detail
is this 1/72 or 1/144?
>>
We balance now
>>
>>6130616
Grab them while they're still at that price, more like.
>>
>>6131910
All the Bandai Star Wars fighter craft are 1/72.
Though the Red Squadron X-Wing also comes with a 1/144 X-Wing.
>>
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Just finished an RG Wing at work
>>
So, are RGs just supposed to be fiddly and scarily tight in the joints once completed? I got a completed one off a friend (Mk.II) and I'm currently in the process of building my first one (Z'Gok) and both seem like that. They don't seem really pleasant to hold and pose like any HG or MG I've built before.
>>
>>6132149
Yes. The frames on rgs are very tight at first. Lightly work them for a few minutes and they loosen up
>>
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Just got this as a gift.
I'm gonna need to learn how to airbrush before tackling this aren't I?
>>
>>6132136
what do you do that you can build gunpla?
>>
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>>6132157
Not necessarily. It'll look fine with just some panel lining and topcoating. I mean, it doesn't even look awful just as a straight build even.

If you wanna do it full justice you'll preshade and mask off the camo pattern, but that can be pretty tough stuff if you're not used to it.
>>
>>6132174
Tech support
>>
>>6132182
must be nice having that much downtime

in any case, looking pretty good on the decals

i must be hamhanded as fuck but whenever i tried putting decals on an RG, one goes shooting off into the distance and i lose motivation to try
>>
>>6132178
This is the newest version based on the sons of the patriot rex. I don't even think it has the railgun and looking over the parts none of them are colored. It's all base grey and dark grey. Not sure I feel about leaving a battle damage version like that unpainted.

I don't even have an air brush. I'm still working on making seamless HG kits. This might have to wait til I'm ready.
>>
>>6132194
I'm a help desk manager, it can get mind-numbingly slow sometimes...well not right now since I still have to hire a fourth person. Honestly, the only reason I don't build at work is because the downtime between calls is like 5-10 minutes usually.
>>
>>6132194
I do the kits during calls
>>
>>6132194
Decals are easy for the most part. I just use the tip of my xacto knife to position them. Hardest one are the eyes, but I just use 2mm paint pens for those
>>
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First kit I've done since 2010. Never got much into anything but snapping it up. But watched a few tutorials and bought some real touch markers. I need to find a better method to glue and sand the seams though.
>>
>>6132259
I would've gone a little lighter on the "weathering". As it stands now, looks like you were building the kit after working in a grease pit
>>
>>6132263
I honestly went as heavy as I did because I wanted it to look really fucked up. Like it was fighting in mud. I probably did overdo it though. But I felt like I had to see how far I could push it first. I even used some matte makeup powder to create some dust and sand caked on it.
>>
>>6132273
So, little advise, if you're going for battle worn you want to go for raised edges and along corners, etc for the deeper wear, with smaller pieces of wearing, likes little nick showing up on the larger flat surfaces
>>
>>6132259
>>6132263
>>6132273
>>6132296
yea, if you want it to be fucked up, you'll need to damage the sculpt itself
maye nicks and scratches and bullet holes or such
now the weathering look off because it just looks cosmestic
>>
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Does anyone know if the alt colors of this are going to be a regular release? I remember rumblings the last time we got a hobby show image dump.
>>
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>>6132273
You have made the common first mistake of weathering. "Really fucked up" =/= "I made it really dirty." Weathering, when done right, is a careful and high-level game. You can't go all willy-nilly, you need to carefully plan that shit. Think about how things wear down in real life and in what areas. Good weathering is actually one of the most difficult things to do in modeling.

Google up some model tank/plane weathering tutorials, learn from them, use them.
>>
>>6132199
Ahh, I see. Okay well, as a sort of mid-level modeler, if I were doing that kit, I'd probably just rattlecan the whitish looking pieces, maybe skip the camo even, handpaint the copper on the radar and...whatever the fuck those round battery looking things are, do some light rust weathering, and then topcoat the whole thing. This would probably give a pretty decent result.
>>
>>6132316
It won't be because GM II itself is P-Bandai.
>>
>>6132325
I feel like I made a mistake buying a White Ogre because that thing is just gonna sit there for an eternity until I learn how 2 weather.
>>
I have to say I'm blown away by the level of detain with this head. Everything except the white stickers is just great. Almost RG level here with the number of pieces on the face.
>>
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Gave building gunpla a try, pretty fun and relatively easy. I'll probably gets some proper tools and spend some more time on it if I build another one though.
Is there a Zion mobile suit with better design than the Geara Doga? I prefer the more simple/rugged designs over the gundams but Zaku is a bit too simple.
>>
>>6132434
Not Zeon, but the Marasai is a design you may like.
>>
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>>6132325
Yeah. That's pretty much what I wanted to do. But lack of skill or experience made it difficult for me to wrap my head around it. That's a great reference picture btw. Really motivates me to try harder next time.
>>
>>6132447
Yeah that looks pretty cool. I'm also tempted by the NZ-666 Kshatriya, even though it's not really a simple Zeon suit, but it'd be quite a big step from the Geara Doga. And I'm not sure I'd be able to do it justice since I will only be able to brush paint in the foreseeable future.
>>
>>6132434
Geara Zulu and Guard's Zulu are pretty baller.
>>
>>6132434
Dra-C, gouf custom, and xekueins if you want to scratch that UC monoeye grunt itch.

If you want to venture outside of UC the Cgue DEEP arms, graze and geirail, and various tierens are pretty cool.
>>
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Do you think we'll ever get a RE/100 Gundam Plutone?
>>
>>6132434
Zaku 1 Sniper (unicorn ver)
Marasai (unicorn ver)
Juaggu
Zogok
Geara Zulu (any)
Kampfer
>>
>>6129615
Jesus.... did..did you even try?
>>
>>6132434
neo zeong
>>
>>6132434
>battle damage

can we end this meme please?
>>
Probably gonna get to splurge on myself soon. Things I'm considering:

RG Gundam Mk. II (AUEG or Titans, at an empasse)
Den'an Zon
Physalis
RX-78-2 Revive
MG Tallgeese
HG Gusion

That's just off the top of my head. Any of these kits have flaws? Still need to get a decent set of tools too, been building with a box cutter and wire cutters and that's it.

Also taking suggestions, I'm really open to anything. I've only built HG Strike Rouge and HG Kimaris so far, and I'm currently building 1/100 Barbatos. Got Rg Sinanju as a gift, but I don't wanna touch that til I get tools.
>>
>>6132954
Nippers(pick your poison)
Tamiya modellers knife pro
Tamiya design knife
sandpaper
sanding sponge
matt topcoat
panel liner of choice
>>
>>6132136
What does your boss say when he sees this?
>>
>>6132419
The nubs are pain in the ass.
>>
>>6132908
Not even battle damage. Look at the bullet holes, he clearly fired through cover.
>>
>>6132958
>Tamiya modellers knife pro
>Tamiya design knife

>sandpaper
>sanding sponge

Differences between these?
>>
>>6132972
Pro has 3 types of blades, regular xacto style blade, curved and chisel, the latter two I find most useful. The handle is also fairly heavy and feels well constructed. Fits the typical hobby knife blades.

design knife has a short and narrow blade, very useful for tight spaces and delicate work where you need more control over your blade

Both use Olfa blades which are ridiculously sharp.

Sanding sponge helps you spread pressure evenly compared to your fingers, useful for curved surfaces like bazooka barrels and odd corners

Depends how deep into the hobby you're going
>>
>>6132980
>>6132972


Yeah I agree no matter what knife handle you get, one that uses olfa art blades is best because they are crazy sharp and the shorter blade suffers tip breaks less tha xacto #11 in this kind of work.
>>
>>6132980
Cool, thanks for the details anon. Much appreciated.
>>
>>6132984
I find #11 style blades the most useless since its unnecessarily long, there isn't much control at the tip and I end up damaging the piece I'm working on since the blade has a long reach.

The curved blade is my favourite since it applies force on a single contact point and the curvature ensures the rest of the knife edge is behind the point of contact
>>
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>>6133000
So. Who's coppin? I thought the lineart of this suit looked dumb as shit but the actual kit is kinda working for me. Hope most of that yellow is molded and not stickers.
>>
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>>6133016
>>
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>>6133017
>>
>>6133016
It looks like some kind of dollar store Fight Robot Action Toy made in china.
>>
>>6133016
>>6133017

i'm liking it a lot but i am also concerned about how much of that will end up being stickers
>>
>>6133017
Well the feet and the guns are nice
>>
>>6133016
>>6133017
>>6133018
>2484 yen
Hope you queers are ready for stickers and missing colours out the ass, there's no way half of that 2484 isn't going directly to the gun and the sled.
>>
>>6132908
No. Although I admit I did it out of boredom and didn't give it much thought.
>>
>>6133016
I want it just to build it.
>>
>>6133025
So it looks like most other Gundams then.
>>
>>6133000

I really like the #11 blades for cutting out decals that don't come on a precut sheet, like the generic sets from samueldecal
>>
>>6133016
>>6133017
>>6133018
design looks so stupid that it's good. just like the Zakrello.
>>
>>6133074
>>6133026

I can't wait for the outrage once the plastic reviews come out

Also you will at LEAST going to need a gundam marker because you can see the black grille things on the knees are washed

Can't wait to see if those leg pieces are separate under pieces or stickers

obviously everything that is a line will be a sticker
>>
>>6133016
The shapes are so weird that it's visually interesting while also being really ugly. I'm still not sure if I actually want it or not, although the weapons look dope.

What the fuck's the deal with the sled?
>>
HEYO GELGOOG DUDE

can you add in the guide http://www.greathobbies.com/ as a resource

They're canadian site that sells Tamiya paints which as far as I know the only site in Canada that I've seen
>>
Anyone tried using wathammer 40k paints on gunpla? I like their color sets and was wondering if thats a possible alternative to starting painting.
>>
>>6133243

they are very expensive for what you get
>>
>>6133016
Just learn to paint you cry baby turbo nerds.
>>
>>6133235
http://www.signalhobbies.com/
This is local to me and Canadian. I think they ship out too, but they have a ton of tamiya brand stuff and gunpla in stock. Honestly one stop there can get you almost anything you need.
>>
I'm finishing with my like 5th HG in a row and have the RG Justice gundam arriving tomorrow.

However i want a new MG too, preferably one with a lot of decals/gimmicks. Anyone have any recommendations? So far the only MG i built was the Tallgeese
>>
>>6133234
The backpack thrusters are mounted on these arm things. Stuck to the sides of the shield is basically forms a boat for water cruising mode (Current thunderbolt arc is underwater iirc, there are aqua guncannons as well).
>>
>>6133243
>Will paint for little plastic figures work on these little plastic figures.

Nope. Bandai formulates their plastic so that if you use anything other than official gundam paint on it the model will catch fire and explode.

[spoiler]Works fine, but citadel products are overpriced.
>>
>>6133251
>newfie
what the fuck

but thanks, didn't know about them. i've googled tamiya paints in canada multiple times and only sunward came up

anddd i thought they had closed but i guess it was only their retail store

www.sunwardhobbies.ca will ship as well. i can't wait for spring/summer
>>
so about that MG Providence Gundam, what do you think is better? get the Devil Arts that just got released?, those effect parts look sick and it comes with a massive waterslide decal sheet

or wait for Bandai's own MG, which apparently, comes with only a few dragoon effect parts and no waterslides
>>
>>6133251
>>6133265

why tamiya paints if you can't get them locally?
>>
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>>6133235
>http://www.greathobbies.com/
>buying Tamiya online
sure, if you like to pay twice for your paints

the only thing they are good for is Alclad that you can pick up in store but their stock levels are shit
>>
>>6133265
Yes newfie. Whaddaya by'

But seriously, it's a great little shop. They have a shelf of just gunpla supplies. Fucking loads of Tamiya paint pots and clear coat rattle cans. Shits fucking great for a beginner like me. Going to see how much I get back in taxes and invest in an airbrush and start doing shit legit.
>>
>>6133235
while we're on the subject of leafland hobbyshops imma shill for these faggots
>>
>>6133272
yeah mate just drive about 10-12 hours to the closest one to grab some!

>>6133274
fight me

god I wish I lived near anything, being NBfag is ruff as fuck. the closest hobby shop to me is in the city and is just one room of a guys basement, is pretty much a tankfag with vallejo only, won't order in Tamiya, told me place down in NS MIGHT ship to me. it hurts ;_;
>>
>>6133280
let me ease your pain
http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?department=PAINT
>>
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Repost. I masked and painted the bottom section of these two pieces. The guide says I should clear coat before proceeding onto the second color. Is it ok to clearcoat over primer , would it affect my finish too much (aiming for a flat finish when I am done painting). Sorry for such shoddy work.
>>
>>6133299
That's probably under the assumption when you paint you have painted the entire kit first.
>>
>>6133302
Well, also partially because I need to mask off the bottom half and a clear coat would lend strength to the paint so it won't get ripped off along with the tape. I'm fairly careful taking off maksing tape but you can never be too sure.
>>
>>6133235
If you guys want to send me a quick write up I'm more than happy to add it for you.
>>
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Anyone considering joining HLJs plamo competition?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huAEomGGNIo

Thinking about the beginner or intermediate class

Store credit cash prizes is very nice for us who buys everything from HLJ but since it's a competition for customers they may want you to prove that you bought the kits used at HLJ, so you americans who mostly buy from Amazon might not be eligible.
>>
>>6133299
>clear coat
it should say GLOSS coat

it is optional but keep in mind that masking tape tends to stick to flat coats stronger than to gloss coats and as a result can lift them
>>
>>6133338
Yes, I will be using Future floor polish over the part. I asked a friend and they said it won't touch the finish really and I should go for it.
>>
>>6133336
OH SHIT

They're holding a competition again? Its been a couple years since the last one. I was a noob at the last one so I sat out but I'll definitely enter something this time.
>>
For someone new to this how hard would it be to hand paint a model? Don't really have the cash to fork out for a airbrush, but I heard that if I thin the paint just right I won't leave brush marks. Any tips?
>>
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I just finished my first build of the year. Can't wait for the GM Sniper II to finally come out.
>>
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>>6133438
>>
>>6133089
I feel you on that point.
>>
Does anyone have experience using the HG Sinanju waterslides on the RG Sinanju? Is it doable?
>>
>>6133438
I like the extra blue around the visor. Solid work in general.
>>
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>>6133386
it's not hard to hand paint a model

it's hard not to throw up when you're done
>>
>>6133476
Thanks! I'm really happy that effect turned out well. I'd never done something like that before, but I figured that I might as well give it a shot to see how it looks.
>>
>>6133438
>>6133439

ur postshading is kawaii
>>
>>6133438
>>6133439
looks good, is that the p-bandai mg?
>>
>>6133485
Yeah, it's the p-bandai. It uses parts from 3 different kits, so there are a lot of leftover parts.
>>
>>6133489
yeah I have one in its box just sitting here in backlog hell
>>
>>6133479
Hrrk.
>>
>>6133438
Didn't you use the same colors for your gmiii group build
>>
>>6133279
i go to the kitchener one all the time, although their stuff is a bit overpriced, it's better than waiting on shipping. then again, it takes an hour on the bus to get there
>>
>>6133697
Yes
>>
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Started my origins rx78. Kit is a helluva lot bulkier than previous kits, especially the 1.0 & 2.0
>>
Any difference between using MrSurfacer 1000 and 1200 for priming? Also should I be using Mr Color Leveling thinner or the regular one?
>>
>>6134146
1200 is made of finer particles.

Use leveling thinner if you can, it evens out paint distribution on the surface you spray. Worth it's weight in gold.
>>
>>6134170
Would 15 psi be enough to spray 1200?
>>
>>6132199
The MGS4 Rex still includes all the runners from the original version, with the damaged parts on new runners, but only contains instructions to build the damaged MGS4 version. The only actual parts that the first/black Rex kits have that the MGS4 version doesn't are the little Solid/Liquid/Cyborg Ninjas (the MGS4 one has old Snake and Raiden instead). So you can build the railgun, you just have to pull up the instructions from the vanilla version online.
>>
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Tried to mix gun metal with silver and red, it ends up looking like the sword just came fresh straight out of the Graze Ein, but i wanted to do something amusing so have the Grimgerde with candy and two barbatos.
>>
>>6134313
Fun trick. Take a tiny drop of dark red and mix in with gunmetal, apply it and hit it with a gloss. Will create a neat metallic red
>>
Finished the main build. Overall a different build which was interesting but the wait joint is trash and can't support the back unit in biped mode.
>>
>>6134340
And here's a bonus that i snapshit together in about 2 hours.

I gotta give it to dalong for their posing because i had no idea what to do with it.
>>
>>6134352
>two hours

Jesus.
>>
So I just ordered the astaroth gundam and it should be here tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience with this kit? Also would any of the weapon sets go well with it?
>>
>>6134403
Ive got a pair of godhand nippers so theres pretty much no nub clean up. Really speeds things up.
>>
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>>6134418
If its Blue Astaroth, the plastic will be lower quality than normal and blue plastic will have some nub problems but you'll be fine with it, anything large will go well with it.
>>
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What a fuckhuge box.
>>
>>6134434
Fuck I just remembered hearing about the plastic in a review I watched. Cancelled the order immediately. I knew I was forgetting something about this kit that's why I posted. I think I'll buy the gusion full city rebake instead.
>>
>>6133336
I'm thinking about it, but my Space Command GM and HiMock were most certainly not bought from them, and I think that's one of the conditions (one rule said the model simply has to be something they stock, another said you may have to prove you bought it from them)
Maybe when my Jet and Sub VTOLs finally get delivered...

>>6134438
Yeah, Max Factory goes bigbox like Koto.
>>
>>6134434

could I know which weapon set is that? I'm looking for a substitute for the Astaroth's rifle that only came with a magazine issue... which I don't know the title of or even where to order that particular issue anymore.

Gatling gun's different but that's cool enough for a substitute for me if I can't get the exact rifle to attach to his backpack
>>
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>>6134530
Giant Gatling.
>>
>>6134427
They really live up to the hype in that case? I mean nubless model building sounds worth the purchase.
>>
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Finally got around to building my Freedom 2.0

Never in my life have I been more nervous when snapping his legs on to his hip.
>>
>>6134578
Goddamn I love that visor and the large v-fins. Looking good, anon.
>>
>>6134578
That looks really, really good. Nice work, Anon!
>>
>>6134443
I didn't even notice any difference in plastic with blustaroth, and I've got every season 1 kit except red astaroth. What are you talking about.
>>
>>6134627
In the review for this kit by zakuaurelius he says the exact same thing about the blue plastic feeling cheaper. I wound up pre-ordering the helmwige instead. That thing is the tits and it'll go with the grimgerde I already have.
>>
>>6134434
The blue plastic was bretty good for me; better than some of my other colored kits.

>>6134632
Huh, I thought it was the usual complain that blue plastic leaves more noticeable nub marks. Come to think of it, this 'cheaper' blue plastic does seem to be softer and less prone to gouges.
>>
Help me out /toy/. I'm doing a straight build of the 3.0 RX78. Should I use top-coat to seal the stickers in? (I would like to use them) Also, which type of coat should I use?

Another question. I heard tamiya enamel panel liner/thinner may weaken the plastic, so should I panel line only after coating with topcoat?

Thanks guys. Sorry 'bout the questions, this is my first build.
>>
>>6134637
>>6134632
It's fine. The difference is benign.
>>
>>6134639
Read da guide
>>
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Friendly reminder that these will save your life
>>
>>6134707
better than specially-made modelling sandpaper?
>>
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>>6134710
specially labeled stuff so you can pay more money just because it's labeled for stupid people?
>>
I buy sandpaper from the auto store and wrap it around a paddle pop stick.
>>
>>6134721
Do you use it to pleasure yourself?
>>
>>6134578
a few careless people break a join on a kit, everyone gets paranoic after that......
>>
>>6134403
I spends approximately 4-5 hours snapshitting a kit.
>>
>>6134532
thanks anon, wow that's a cool set...
>>
>>6134735
DeLong is hardly careless. The joint, just looking at it, obviously has issues. It's funding perforated, just like the Sinanju ver Ka that had frequent problems with the waist breaking.
>>
>>6134681
Cunt
>>
>>6134443

the blue plastic isn't any more fragile, just that it looks very toyetic. Sanding the surface or spraying a topcoat on it goes a long way. It's still a great kit, structure wise, for me that's the sturdiest out of the IBO kits, nothing gets loose in posing and it's very poseable and the giant sword is awesome.

I'd still recommend it.
>>
>>6134639
I prefer matte for topcoating.
>>
>>6134491
Apparently to be eligible for the prizes you have to buy your kit from them as well as not post it or WIP of it anywhere other than the site until after the contest is over.
>>
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Lets say that I wanted to make a clear part for the eyes to replace the current eye piece that slides into the "mask" on barbatos, but don't want to go through the time, effort, and mayerial cost of making a mold and making a clear resin cast for one small piece.

Do you think it would be possible to put down a blob of hot glue, wait until it cools off enough to be a bit soft and malleable, then push the mask part down on it until it forces some of the glue up into the eye holes to take their shape? Basically using the mask part itself as the mold?

The new eye part doesn't have to be super clear, just clear enough to light up or glow if I put a LED behind it.
>>
>>6134443
If the plastic is weaker it'll only matter for joints, which you can pin to prevent snapping
>>
So realtalk my friends. How do I eliminate nubs on my kits? Snip as close as possible and sand? Other esoteric methods?I know I'll get some read the guide answers, but how about some tips or suggestions from the more experienced gunpla builders on here?

Will there always be a vague white nub mark even with sanding, if I go sans painting?
>>
>>6134835
Clip the part a few mm to like half a cm away from the part itself. Once the part is clear of the runner snip off most of the remaining nub, slice of the little bit remaining with a knife, sand with high grit paper.
>>
>>6134835
real sharp hobby knife or godhands for ez mode

top off with matt coat
>>
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>>6134707
>nail buffing blocks
nails are much harder than plastic, son

although seeing some nasty nails in pictures posted in this thread I agree that these blocks could save (social) lives of some people here
>>
>>6134443
Full city will need more work to look decent compared to astaroth. Id say stick with astaroth
>>
I still want to see a Rebake with The O crotch hands and maybe the grabber claws from Gaplant.
>>
>>6134530
What the fuck happened with that Astaroth rifle? The one that was supposed to come with the pile bunker, as a magazine pack-in. It said it was supposed to be a December release, and I had it on preorder at HLJ, but it never came out. Now it's mysteriously gone from my preorders...I don't recall canceling it either.

Anyone know what happened? And where I could snag it again, if it ever did get released?
>>
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>>6134887
It already released. Hlj probably overestimated the amount they could get in and ran out before filling all the preorders, then removed the listing since it was a limited item and they couldn't get more.

That sucks for you though man.
>>
>>6134817
yup, Syd confirmed this for me.
I cant use the sazabi I won from them in the last comp as it wasn't BOUGHT from them.
So I've bought another sazabi.
>>
>>6134921
You don't have to buy EVERYTHING from them do you? Just the main/base kit? Like if it was 80% a kit I bought from them and like 20% random parts from my spare parts box it would be okay?
>>
>>6134949
main kit has to be bought from them.
I've got an okay to use resin addons and other weapons.
>>
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>>6134996
Cool, I'm good to go on my idea then. I look forward to hopefully competing against you in the advanced category.
>>
>>6134857
>doing gunpla with long nails
How? I can barely hold onto some of the tiny pieces as it is.
>>
>>6135103
I was considering clipping my nails for hygiene reasons as well as Gunpla reasons.
>>
>>6134438
Post size comparison with mg gunpla please, I requested when Cherno was posted but no one bothered.
>>
>>6134900
They say circumcision reduces the pleasure derived from sex, but i doubt a gundam has to worry about that.
>>
>>6134884
And the gabthly claw feet?
>>
>>6135222
Don't forget Zeong or Doven Wolf hands for long distance touching
>>
>>6135254
Of course. And the same from the silver bullet? Or even the byarlant claw arms?
>>
>>6134996
Well, guess I'll go with one of the VTOLs if they ever get here.

>>6134828
Maybe, but there's still be more work before that.
See the pegs on the back of the eye-part? those hold the whole face assembly in place in the head.
You's need to secure at least that much to the face frame part first.
>>
>>6135222
>>6135254
>>6135279
I woke up to find people took my stupid idea and made it better. Bless you all, my niggas.
>>
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After the TIE Fighter I quickly built these two, red one last night and the other one while watching Grand Tour. And now I'm suddenly buying 2 more from HLJ.
>>
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>>6135367
>>
>>6135145
You don't trim your nails?
>>
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>>6135164
>But no one bothered.

I did though.
>>
>>6135304
I was just going to glue the mask part on after painting. Already test fit it qnd it shouldn't be a problem.
>>
>>6135371
I do, just did. But sometimes I put it off or it escapes my attention. For like, weeks at a time.
>>
>>6135164
Look in the last thread. Cherno Alpha anon posted a height comparison with a MG Zaku.
>>
>>6135164
I haven't even opened the box yet, let alone built it. Will definitely post comparison pictures with MGs and the Neca figures when I do though.
>>
>>6135395
How is the quality of the plastic compared to Bandai? I have no experience with Plamax kits.
>>
Any reason to not get the slightly cheaper MG Nu over the Ver. Ka? Both have amazing reviews after all.
>>
>>6135585
Ver ka is Ver ka, it's newer and slightly better designed.

The original has better proportions but it's older and has all the problems of older kits, poorer parts separation and articulation for the most part
>>
>>6128978
>>6128987
....yeah dude they've got robotic looking joints and sharp angular clothing that resembles armor. That pic is a good example actually of what I mean. What I'm looking for is more figma-like with soft flowing clothing.
>>
>>6134857
They really aren't harder though. I do nails for a living and there's literally no difference between a buffing block and hobby sanding papers, other than the nail block being cheaper and usually actually more gentle materials. Hell I order nail supplies in bulk for hobby purposes cus it's way cheaper for me.
>>
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I'm sure this is a really open question, but how have you guys gone about improving your craft? Where did you start, and what steps did you take to get to where you are now? Right now I'm just snap building my shit together, shaving off nubs with an x-acto and doing some panel lining. I plan on picking up some sand paper soon enough to smooth out nub marks, and maybe look into coating, but what I'm really wondering is "when" I should start painting, or if it's something I even want to do at all. I'm happy with the way my kits are turning out, but I know it's possible to make them into something much more impressive.
>>
>>6135615
I just kept getting ideas for recolors and mods I wanted to apply to my kits, so I bought an airbrush and started practicing so I could actually achieve them.
>>
>>6135615
Once you finish mastering nub removal and panel lining, you can do whatever you like.

Most do top coating and painting, but you can do whatever you please.
Weathering, custom part making, or whatever can be done as you see fit.
>>
>>6135585
Ver. Ka has better articulation, more detail (Katoki's signature fuckhueg waterslide sheet and a more detailed mold), a transforming frame, better articulation, and has different proportions.
>>
Need to panel line and the guide says I can use pencil lead. Does that mean mechanical or can I just sharpen a pencil and get to work lining?
>>
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>>6135615
It helps to set goals and then you can figure out a path to get you there. My goal is being able to do something like pic related.
>>
>>6135678
Use a pen. I doubt pencil lead works well.
>>
>>6135678
>>6135731
mechanical works well enough, and that's what the guide refers to
>>
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Almost done, I just need to decal and weather it.
>>
>>6135797
Looks great. God I want an official kit so bad.
>>
>>6135797
Neato. Bonus for the file name.
>>
Has anyone ever done a diorama of the fight from 08th MS Team?
>>
>>6136035
>the fight from 08th MS Team?
You're going to have to be a little more specific, there was more than one fight there.
>>
>>6136043
The good one.
>>
>>6136047
I'll need to pick up a Flight Type Gouf first then.
>>
>>6134877
I reordered the astaroth and kept the pre-order for the helmwige because I absolutely must have that kit. God I love oversized swords
>>
>>6133279
>>6133716
Everything in that store is over priced, it's fucking insane. I'm all for giving local business my money especially for gunpla, seeing as its the only fucking place that sells it. (I live in Kitchener and work across the street from Hobby and Toy Central)
When I was in last I saw a HGUC Delta Gundam for fucking $80 dollars and with that they lost my business. The only advantage they may have is the perfect grade kits would probably be cheaper (from what I've seen) to get here than what it would be to have them shipped.
>>
For those of you that asked. Here is a comparison bewtten Xuron and Godhand nippers on the same sprue.
>>
>>6136035
Someone here did a few months back.
>>
New thread: >>6136104
>>
>>6135350
Danke schon stranger
>>
>>6135797
Spiffy. Top-hat Leo when?
>>
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>>6136035
>>6136047
This one?
>>
>>6134900

wtf is wrong with them, releasing a cool, unique weapon set with a one time magazine release.

anyone know what the name of the magazine and which issue it was? maybe it'll float up somewhere
>>
>>6133338
Is there a better gloss coat alternative than Krylon clear? The gloss coats yellow out easily.
Thread posts: 343
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