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Welcome to the Gunpla/Plamo General

This is a blue board which means that it's for everybody (Safe For Work content only). If you see any adult content, please report it.

Thread replies: 333
Thread images: 81

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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/


Old thread: >>5849392
>>
Just in case anyone missed the posting for the group build: : https://gelgoogguy.wordpress.com/2016/08/13/gm-group-build/

The winner has one week to claim their prize, then it goes the runner up.
>>
>making tomino richer
>>
Wonder why they gave the rg sinanju the mk-ii frame parts, sure more frame parts were added but it feels wrong. Not to mention the effort they put into the rest of the kit. (But we all know, easy mold reuse)
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>>5855140
My guess is the RG frames are essential to the line but not enough to justify making a new one just for Sinanju so they'd rather build the kit to accommodate for the token frame
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>>5855145
Sad they could of just made a new frame to foershadow the Sazabi or Nu Gundam later.
>>
>>5855152
nu will probably use the same mk ii frame
>>
Is anyone else bothered by how hollow the shield on that GM is?

It's a great build, but that shield kinda bothers me.
>>
>>5855184
You're not the only one.
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Alright. Just got back from Otakon. Anyone want to see the GBWC entries? They were actually pretty good this year.
>>
>>5855184
same. wish he used pla plate or at least painted the underside grey
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>>5855198
At the very least, displayed it in a way where we see the shield's good side.

But that's just me nitpicking. Other than that, it's a great build.
>>
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Absolute newbie starting from scratch here. I read the guide and now I'm gathering materials, I hope you'll be so kind as to help me out. I've got this in my cart at Hobby Wave. I know I'm going to need a pair of Nippers, maybe an Exacto knife+mat and some sandpaper, but I've got questions.

1. Is there any reason not to grab a cheap pair of nippers or even cuticle cutters? They all seem to have the same setup and the modelling ones all start at $13 or so.

2. HW has some cloth sheets they advertise that supposedly don't clog which sounds neat, but are they decent? Would I be as well off with some wet/dry sandpaper?

3. Topcoating: wise to do on the first time? Y/N? I don't expect perfection, but if I'm likely to screw up badly I'd rather not.

4. Would I be better off picking up any of this stuff locally rather than ordering it?
>>
>>5855209
link to cloth sheets?

dont worry about messing up too badly with topcoat. just light passes.
At the worst you'll have wasted a little time and money but you'll have gained experiance
>>
>>5855212
https://www.hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/finishing-polishing/mr-grinding-cloth-set.html

With the topcoat I'm really most concerned about the joints, but it sounds like maybe that won't be an issue if I do it piece by piece?
>>
>>5855226
that sandpaper is decent. you can actually go to your autozone and get more cheaper of assorted grits.

it won't be an issue as long as you use light coats. You don' t even have to topcoat one piece at a time. you can do the whole arm at once, then articulate it to get the part of the joint that was concealed
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>>5855233
I like cheap, probably will go that route then. Sanding wet sounds smart but I'm sure between them and the hardware store I can find some wet/dry. What about the flush cutters?
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Okay Gunpla, dumb question. Should I splurge ~50 on a bunch of Gunpla?
I'm ordering a restock Nobel and vanilla Dom, both of which I'm quite familiar with, and then a bunch of IBO kits, none of which I'm familiar with and which I just think look cool and which also happen to be single-digit cheap. i'm debating whether or not to get the Hyakuri, as it requires a stand to stand up with its backpack and that peeves the hell out of me.

Pic related. I have a weakness for absurd high heels and bulky suits.

>>5855195
Color me interested.
>>
>>5855239
Get modelling cutters. You could do without a good pair, but it makes your life a little easier.

God hand has a budget nipper out, maybe you could try that one.
>>
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>>5855243
>Pic related. I have a weakness for absurd high heels and bulky suits.

That kit sold like shit but it's a cheap and fun little thing. It's also fun to swap the legs out from other kits on it. Made me really wish that they had made a spinner rodi hg.
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>>5855158
The MK II frame is a little short to fit NU if you ask me, though i'm impressed they managed to get it to fit the Sinanju
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>>5855251
That's part of why I'm getting it. It's a good deal, basically GM cheap, and I like its looks.
>>
>>5855243
The Hyakuri is a very good model for it's price point, get it. Man Rodi the weaker of ibo but for what it's worth its a fun kit to customize. I plan on kit bashing it with the Titus at some point later.
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>>5855243
>splurge 50
Nigga that hardly gets you anything. This is my current wishlist that I've been trying not to buy for a month.
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>>5855246
What's even the difference between good and bad cutters? Sounds like more than just sharpness and longevity.

Which ones are you talking about, anyway? I'm not seeing anything lower than $30 at a quick glance.
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>>5855258
weaksauce
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>>5855257
What's the good stuff about the Hyakuri? The stand requirement is a serious turnoff for me, but I wouldn't mind hearing some benefits.
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>>5855261
Sharpness mostly. Blunt nippers will stress the plastic till it breaks instead of cutting and leaves horrible gorge mark.
>>
>>5855261
Look for Xuron on amazon
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>>5855243

First up is the winner. I hate to admit it but it's actually a really well done model.
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>>5855261
This one, it's cheap enough and doesn't look like there's a premium on the brand name.
>>
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>>5855278
Best large scale. It's supposed to be a Mg version of the old SD crossbone design.
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>>5855278
tfw no king dedede custom using the gusion hammer
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>>5855287
Best small scale. I love the base he made for it.
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>>5855290
My entry. I ran out of time for the project I had been working on and instead spent the last two nights just touching up an older entry and painting a mobile worker to go with it. Thank god for quick drying lacquers.
>>
>>5855278
>booster hammer
Ouch.
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>>5855266
It does come with a stand as part of the kit. So you don't have to worry about that. The good thing about the Hyakuri is how deceptively articulated it is for how it looks, and its inner frame parts such as the pistons on its legs and torso that is molded to move around unlike the barbatos frame.
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>>5855278
>>5855287
>>5855290
>>5855293
Man, this is all really cool. Thanks for sharing.
>>
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>>5855293

This was the only outright bad entry in my opinion. The horn also apparently broke off in transport or something.
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>>5855298
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>>5855302
The other "Bad" entry, although it's still better than the zaku. This guy just fell into the "Smudges=weathering" trap.
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>>5855278
baby hands kills it for me
>>
>>5855261
If you don't get fine point cutters you will most certainly have horrible horrible stress marks. I use (until I can get a new set) some cutters I had from a PC repair kit and the big fat blades make it 10x harder than it needs to be to cut shit out of the runners
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>>5855298
>handpainting a model that large
christ.
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>>5855302
>weathering
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>>5855309
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>>5855317
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>>5855318
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>>5855319
Anyone interested in the rest or is this good?
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>>5855322
moar
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>>5855324
>>
>>5855322
More.
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>>5855327
Sazabi's hand fell off overnight.
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>>5855322
Mroe
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>>5855335
>>
>>5855195
What's that small Rx-78-02 kit called?
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>>5855341
>>
>>5855322
>Kill them all.
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>>5855345
>>
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>>5855353
And that's it. Not actually that bad considering the low turnout and mishaps the past several years at Otakon's contest.

Also Bluefin is selling a little Mr. Hobby tool set now apparently.
>>
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>>5855342
Blind box mini kit/statue for like $6. Mine ended up being Barbatos clear version. Its got like 7 pieces and is 2-3 inches tall.
>>
>>5855358
Thanks dude, that was some cool stuff.
>>
>>5855353
Who mauled fumina's arm off?
>>
>>5855411
No one. It's just an awkward angle. >>5855322
>>
>>5855419
Ah i see, my bad it just blends in too well.
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>>5855374
Are these sold online?
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I used matte coat on the innner frame of my HG, and I painted the armor different Krylon Short Cuts colors. What clear coat should I get that won't fuck it all up?
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>>5855433
No idea.
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>>5855283
>$30
Not quite budget enough. The Xurons >>5855275
recommended have pretty good reviews, I think I'll pick up https://amzn.com/B000IBSFAI and some sandpaper locally. Are these plus >>5855209 good enough to pull the trigger, gents?
>>
>>5855440
Skip the Xurons and grab this: https://smile.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-SQ10206-Sprue-Nipper/dp/B000GL1L60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471149895&sr=8-1&keywords=squadron+nippers
>>
>>5855444
Why one over the other? Price difference is a shrug.
>>
>>5855444
skip the squadrons and grab this
>unzips dick
>>
>>5855451
Xuron nippers don't use...a level cut? I know there's a word for it, but instead of the blades meeting at the same point (and being flat on the bottom when doing so), the Xurons are slightly off angled. Frankly having used the Xurons for years, the Squadron pair works so much better.
>>
>>5855444
>paying $10 for $1.65 tool
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-125mm-electric-wire-cutting-pliers-cutter-shears-diagonal-side-cutting-pliers-nippers-blue/32653150214.html

>inb4 squadron nippers are not made in chyna
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>>5855440
I'm using these, the G-Temple GT-01. Costs about 15USD w/o shipping.

Its actually really good for its price, but seems to tarnish very easily. Also has a cute anime girl on the packaging.
>>
>>5855480
3-in-one oil will keep tools from tarnishing, but then you'd get oil on your gunpla. What a shame.
>>
>>5855374
Thanks for the reply. They look pretty neat!
>>
Has anyone tried modifiying an Origin Zaku II to use the Zaku Amazing equipment? I'm looking at the manual and the Amazing looks like it's literally the ancient HGUC with some junk tossed on. It has no articulation.
>>
>>5855504
I did oil it, but it just got worse. Could have been the oil I was using, and living in a humid area didn't help either.

Most of it probably came from the contact with my finger, since I like to support the nipper with my index finger as I cut.

Anyway, as long as the blades aren't rusted the rest of the body can tarnish all they want. Still, love the blade design and its sharp enough.
>>
>>5855455
Ah, there is one review about a less than perfect meeting between the blades. Looks like most are using this for wire and whatnot so they don't actually care.

>>5855480
These sound good, but I'm not so sure about the rust thing. They are cheap enough, but then you also have to track the things down, it seems.
>>
>>5855455
>>5855535
Yeah, they're intentionally offset so they cut with shearing rather than pinching, supposed to put less stress on the blades and the material being cut, and leave a cleaner cut overall.
Apparently they even have one especially for model-work now: http://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/14
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Something about the new HGUC GM Ground Type bothers me and I can't explain it. It matches up with the art fine, but it still seems like it's too soft/flat/wide/rounded or something. I can't quite put my finger on what bothers me about it.

Anyone know what I mean?
>>
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>>5855535
I know the shop I bought it from, but it isn't listed on their site for some reason. Had this pair for over a year or so.
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>>5855561
Sorry for the massive file size.

Damn shame about the rust though.
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>>5855565
Last one, a uniball signo dx 0.38 for comparison.
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>>5855568
that last picture makes them look pretty decent, especially compared to my piece of shit nail clipper cutters
>>
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>>5855556
I think you described it pretty well, its definitely roundish and soft and seems flat or missing detail at some parts

Like compare it to the MG, the legs are specifically telling. Painjob aside the MG mold has far more hard defined edges, on the HG the studs on the knee are like soft little buttons while the MG has hard protruding cylinders

For the design at hand I think it fits way better with a sharper aesthetic, I can't imagine the scale couldn't accommodate for harder edges
>>
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>>5855573
I was too lazy to dig out my basic Mr hobby nipper but well here you go.

Angled blades are top tier and I'll probably never get another flat one. Also it's profile is really thin.
>>
>>5855556
>It matches up with the art fine
It looks like it got katoki'd pretty hard to me
>>
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>>5855588
Just realised I'm basically shilling nippers but whatever.
The angle of the blades is also really flat compared to the Mr hobby nipper I got for 10 bucks more. Honestly, any nipper with this design is great because it allows you to get into more difficult to reach areas, compared to your standard flat-ish cutters. Give it a go.

Maybe next time I'll try the more expensive GT 02, perhaps it's made of better materials.
>>
>>5855554
Bah, just pulled the trigger on these due to availability and reviews. If the cuts are perfectly clean (and a trainfag says they're okay) I'll just sand like the cheapskate I am.
>>
>>5855591
Nah, the HG is more like the MK,II and Hyaku Shiki that the living god Naoki did, in other words, not shit katoki like the HG GM II's proportions
>>
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Just finished my 1/60 Helldiver. It was my first experiment with seam welding, but only some, like not the atrocious one at the top of the head, seemed like a hassle to mask the visor. Did this at the same time as my HAW206 so same camo pattern but with NATO green on top.
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>>5855931
Gosh the base kit looks like trash, I don't think I can ever stomach building a non modern bandai kit.

Think the camo was better done on the HAW206, the pattern is way too big on this.

Also bad choice of camo colors, the grey conflicts with the green, because there is hardly any location with a color combination such as yours. The grey or green needs to change, or you'll have to add in another contrasting color.
I was in the middle of writing some long ass post about camo colors but I should stop pretending to have professional opinion about this and gave it up.

Just google pics of digital camo and see what I mean. You gotta match the colors to whatever fictional location its supposed to operate in.
>>
>>5855992
Gosh my sentences are an absolute mess.

Anyway, good on you for doing a 4 color digital camo, shit must have been tedious. Personally, I think the end product doesn't look very appealing. If you had reduced the size of the cells I'm certain it'll look a lot better.

Now I'm feeling a bit apprehensive of trying digital camo myself.
>>
Hey guys, I'm a total snapshit noob. I was wondering for there are any modern 1/144 tallgeese kits other than the ew tallgeese3?
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>>5856044
No.
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>>5855636
sacle might be a tad off but the proportions look very similar
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>>5856047
Well shit. Thanks for the answer though.
>>
>>5855992
Damn thats brutal...

>>5855934
I think the kit looks neat. I definitely feel that a lot of work went into the guy. I dig the wonky proportions too. Keep it up man
>>
>>5855992
>Gosh the base kit looks like trash

Not him but it is. Anyone who complains about trashbag joint covers has never dealt with their rubber joint covers.
>>
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>>5856029
>>5855992
I agree, it was a total experiment. I did have smaller digicam on hand but I forgot. The white is just primer I masked as an experiment. Likewise the colors just kinda came as I went along. Backpack except the thrusters I just top coated, did the chute in gloss.
But the base kit is indeed disgusting. Got it on an HLJ sale for practice purpose.
>>
>>5856062
Haha yeah, I was at least familiar with them from the MG Patlabor, but I'd fucking murder for a modern 1/35 MG of the Patlabor and Helldiver. Gonna do the Live Action one sometime too.
>>
>>5856057
Follow up, is the ew tallgeese 3 kit any good?
>>
Sempai-tachi, does tamiya plastic cement work on polycaps? Mistakes were made.
>>
>>5856065
>puking_madotsuki.jpg

>>5856079
I've never tried, but from what I know polycaps are stubborn as hell. Why not describe your problem?
>>
>>5856074
For someone who can paint and mod joints? Sure why not.
For a beginner? It's almost entirely molded in white, horrible articulation and poor part fit.
If you absolutely needed a beginner friendly tallgeese kit then you're basically limited to the MG line. The official MG tallgeese 3 is a timed exclusive though and the only way of getting an official one is buying one off mandarake at a high markup or waiting for a rerelease.
Dragon Momoko (chinese company) makes a slightly more detailed plastic kit of the tallgeese 3 but it also has some part fit issues and cheaper plastic. But at least it won't cost you an arm and a leg.
>>
>>5856097
I tried putting Astaroth's arm ball joint into Strike Rouge's arm socket joint, without realizing the ball joint was actually too large for the socket Now the socket has a tear. It can still hold the original arm but the ball joint pops out when I try poses that rotate the polycap rotates on the inside hinge.
>>
>>5856060
Hugbox comments belong in reddit. If it doesn't look good then it doesn't.
Anyway I'm aware my first post was worded badly, but I think I got the message across in the end.
>>
>>5856103
Seriously? That's some bullshit. I just want a cheap easy to build tallgeese. Any hope of it being part of the revive line?
>>
>>5855278
Yeah, but who the hell hosts and then enters their own contest only to win it?
>>
>>5856116
Is it the protagonist/antagonist suit from a ~50 ep show or from UC? Probably not but bandai does like to surprise people; I wouldn't expect anything for a good year or two.
>>
>>5856124
I mean tallgeese is one of the iconic antagonist suits from wing so I did have hopes, but I guess not.
>>
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>Candy coat the clear pieces
Or
>Candy coat the red armor

Which one would look pretty cool? I'm trying to think of ways to make the clear pieces stand out more/look awesome
>>
>>5856152
Paint silver underneath the clear parts
>>
>>5856152
It's a BF part so put glitter glue under the clear parts for a plavsky effect.
>>
>>5856152
make the red two-tone
add more red to the legs
make the vents in the waist have a color that pops out(deep orange preferably)
The clear parts will pop out as there is gradual tone in the color
>>
Bought a robot damashii unicorn gundam as my first build without doing much research. I later found out that the robot spirits brand is plain action figures, am i right about that? Bought it online and the store didn't have any pictures
>>
>>5856238
Yes. Robot damashii/sporits are collectors action figures.
>>
>>5855934
one of the bumps on his head is a nub you forgot to clean, guess which one
>>
>>5855100
bought my first kit yesterday :D
>>
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and so, this HWS Hi Nu is complete
>>
>>5856303
You may as well drop that trip, there's no real reason to have it if you aren't going to contribute something special.
Emoticons make you look twelve.
>>
>>5856345
relax, it's just snapshit
>>
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>>5856307
better pic with sunlight
its a true behemot of a kit
>>
>>5856293
Well I didn't cut it from the sprue there so it's not a nub.Think it's a sensor I didn't paint.
>>
>>5856389
Dem tiddies
>>
>>5856400

Wait, if the pilot is just sitting there with his head poking out, why does the suit itself need a head?
>>
>>5856508
You and your.. QUESTIONS.
>>
>>5856508
The seat can retract down and swap to the usual monitors and such.
>>
A question about sanding.

Is there any level of sanding that will make your sanded patch match the bare plastic?

Or, is sanding the entire peace to match an appropriate direction?

Or. I'd I sand at all. Is it therefore implied that it will be painted?

Basically. I've always used a knife for kits I'm not gonna paint. And I'd like to try sanding my nubs off. Is that a bad idea if I'm not planning on painting them later?
>>
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>>5856508
>>
>>5856523
To match bare plastic you usually have to polish/buff it....

But some modern bandai kits come semi-matte, achieved by sandblasting the mold. it's hard to achieve the same effect with sanding since it is directional in nature.
>>
>>5856523
>Is there any level of sanding that will make your sanded patch match the bare plastic?
With high grit sandpaper (Around 3000 grit)

But if you want a quick and dirty solution to sanding marks, give your kit a matte topcoat
As long as you didn't use way too low grit (Say, 150) it should usually hide them (Your kit will end up matte though, of course)
>>
>>5856534
Alright. But if I sand it up from 600 to 1000 or so, and then give the whole piece a rub down with my finest grit. Is it gonna look like shit?
>>
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>>5856535
>3000 grit
>>
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Well shit, I wasn't planning on getting the p bandai GM sniper II since it's just a lazy recolor but apparently it'll come with a Tin Cod (or is that a Saberfish? Something else?) and now I really fucking want it. Fucking DAMMIT bandai.

Anyone else thinking of getting it?
>>
>>5856536
for your final grit (1000 done wet is enough IMO) sand in a figure-of-eight motion. It "randomizes" your sanding direction somewhat, creating a even finish.

In carpentry they have a whole category of power-tools called Random Orbital Sanders to achieve this effect.
>>
>>5856103
The MG Tallgeese 2 and 3 are actually up for order right now for an October release which is like their 3rd reprint now.
>>
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messing around with origin zakus
>>
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What Gundam is this? Looks like tgat mono eye one but i dunno.
>>
>>5856665
Doing what specifically?

I'm not really seing any changes. A minor one on the waist, but that's all I can see.
>>
>>5856680
That's not a Gundam, it's a Huckebein
>>
>>5856681
thicker thighs
lengthen torso
>>
>>5856079
>>5856107
Please respond
>>
>>5856738
Pretty sure cement melts polycaps

Like, not the kind of melt that wields it together like new

Just... melts

I'm not 100% sure though, but just to be safe I'd advice against it unless you're absolutely out of options
>>
>>5856665
Fuck, I wish I could properly do mods like this
Whenever I try to do anything to my kits they end up looking like they're made out of play-doh
>>
>>5856738
>>5856738
Polycaps are polyethylene. So, get a glue for that.
>>
>>5856756
Normal office/art glue?
>>
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>>5856776
Actually almost no glue you can get outside industrial settings works on PE for complex chemical reasons.

Use pic related to wreck PE chemistry, then use regular CE.
>>
>>5856776
>Normal office/art glue?
Why would you think that?
>>
>>5856843
I thought 'glue' here >>5856756 meant everyday glue. kek
>>
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Alright here's my shitbird recolor GM, I posted just the shield earlier
I repainted the shield about 9 times before realize I couldn't get the color consistent while mixing my own.
Tried dry brushing to cover up the amateur hour
>>
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Fairly new.

Don't know if I missed this in the guide but how do I avoid these gaps?

Is it the kit?
>>
>>5857020
It's the kit. Old Wing/EW kits have pretty bad parts fit.
>>
>>5857028
Meh it's only a 1/144 HG. No big deal.

I got a MG tallgeese but I don't want that to be my first.
>>
>>5857006
Looks good anon, but maybe went a bit too heavy with the dry brushing in some areas.
>>
>>5857020
Yeah, it's the kit. Use your cement and then sand it down so it's level. If you want it to look good you're going to need to put a ton of work into that thing. Old kits were not that great.
>>
What are your biggest regrets?

My first MG was the Hi Nu ver Ka. I wanted to make it a "pure Bandai experience" and did minimal panel lining, waterslide decals, and topcoat.

Now I wish I did more with the kit. I want to add more shades of color too it, but the decals are already there...
>>
>>5857045
Rubber cement a must?

All I got is super glue
>>
>>5857058
I think buying PG Banshee and the led set a while back. I haven't built it yet. I feel like it was a huge impulse.
Other than that, I've done some terrible, unplanned "moddings" and painted stuff.
>>
>>5857081
>Rubber cement
No, no, no. Do NOT use rubber cement on a model kit. We're referring to plastic cement. Plastic cement actually dissolves the plastic slightly, so that two pieces of plastic fuse together. For this kind of stuff, Tamiya extra thin plastic cement works well and is pretty cheap.
>>
>>5857099
Yeah, I keep both Tamiya Extra thin, and Tamiya regular. Local hobby shop had both. Wear a respirator or have good ventilation. May cause brain damage.
>>
>>5857103
>using respirators around cement
>not even huffing the bottles
>>
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Would it look better if I just drill these holes all the way through than to paint them black? I'm not sure because I can't see why it should have holes unless there's an in-universe explanation and art of the cardigan show it as holes..
>>
>>5855209
I used to work with cuticle cutters, and it left some pretty bad stress marks, plus it can't get into the smaller places like a hobby nipper can. Even a basic $10 nipper can make a lot of difference.
>>
>>5856152

What if you made the grey bits silver?
>>
Thinking about picking up another Master Grade kit. I absolutley love the Fenice Rinascitai have on my shelf currently. Any reccomendations for kits that look great straight out of the box? (I do use Gundam Markers.)
>>
>>5857197
Minus the weapon in its hand, that is.
>>
>>5857205
GN-X, Blitz, Zeta Plus
>>
Just realized I forgot to get a stand with my last order. How much is this going to suck?
>>
>>5857205
get a master grade zaku II 2.0 they are cheap
>>
>>5857176
they're not really holes, just details, indentations more like it.
commonly seen in the later 80's to 90's like izubuchi's work, the kampfer had a lot of these details and even the mg manual doesn't really explain what they do
>>
>>5857282
They're very clearly meant to be holes like on a heat guard for a rifle.
>>
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>>5857294
perhaps they're there to cool off the gatlings but who knows?
they could even be thrusters or sensors or just there to save weight.
>>
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Finished him.

Gonna go back and seal up and sand those gaps later.
>>
>>5857307
In the anime the holes on the forearms and the backpack (around the thrusters) just appear to be black holes. Same for the MP Guncannon's shoulders and cannon guard.

Not sure what the ones on the Kampfer's shoulder are but they might be verniers given the position and indent and smaller holes.
>>
>>5857307
Or even more basic, just holes to attach chains to them to help remove the parts?
>>
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>>5857307
>>5857327
>>5857331
>>
>>5857282
>>5857294
Yeah, they look like ventilation/drainage holes that prevent gas/moisture/heat build-up
>>
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>>5857327
the outer side of the hygog's lower leg is completely covered in them, even jin-roh guys had these holes on their helmets.
>>
>>5855556
I guess... the shoulders? They feel a bit large?
>>
>>5856554
Hate to break it to you but the fighter in that image is the Core Splendor from the Impulse Gundam, the rocket pods on the swing wings are dead giveaways
>>
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How come nobody ever talks about SDs?
>>
>>5857421
Probably because most people don't like the SD original designs and the SD kits for regular suits are mostly old and shit.
>>
>>5857103
>fumes
>airborne particulate matter

are you retarded or do you like giving bad advice?
>>
>>5857421
because they require work to look good and nobody here is talented
>>
>>5857467
the fumes from the cement are toxic. You should be using a mask that handles organic vapors
>>
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>>5855374
Jelly you got a barbatos
>>
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>Thi...this is?!
>Yes. The power of LED.

Three piece construction. Comes with holding hands and spare colored and clear blades.

Battery and LED in a metal casing which acts as the handle.
Cover that is used to off the LED by pulling it up.
Blade which pushes down to turn on the LED.

The light is already a set color so even if the clear pieces are painted the effect would still be different.

And how do I charge/change the battery again?
>>
>>5857519
I need this for action figure reasons
>>
>>5857475
I'm not. I wanted the little Axis so I could have Sazabi slam dunking or throwing it.
>>
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>>5857519
>And how do I charge/change the battery again?
You buy a new sword, goyim.
>>
>>5857470
ok so you're retarded then?
>>
>>5857176
drill em.

they look like ports that would allow the guns to vent heat when they're covered up after firing
>>
>>5857528
That would be sweet, I've yet to obtain Axis though. I'm down 9 kits, good thing there isnt a same one on them

>>5857539
>>5857176
Looks like it's better to be drilled, or replace the holes with the IC Pins.
>>
>>5857040
Thanks
yeah i didn't mean to get certain parts, might try to redo a couple of the worse areas.
>>
>>5857006
Good job anon. Did you leave the weird blue-green color instead of painting it white or are my eyes just getting worse?

But at least the shield looks better. Too scratchy though, tone down the dry brushing.
>>
>>5857418
Yeah, eventually realized that and I'm disappointed, but I guess that's what I get for expecting something cool from bandai.

At least I won't end up paying twice the price of the original Sniper II just for the fighter jet.

Kinda annoys me though, why put a random Core Splendor in the damn pic?
>>
>>5857607
no idea where the pic is from but it releases with the blast impulse that had the core splendor
>>
>>5857607
It's in the P-bandai display booth at a show. The picture just caught part of the blast impulse display.
>>
Just started airbrushing for the first time, figured I'd try using vallejo air because the store close to me only had vallejo stuff. Oddly enough it seems to me like the paint is way too wet after coming from the brush, I can see it banding together like a liquid and even after it gets sprayed onto a part the airflow keeps it moving. I'm doing pretty fast passes and I'm keeping the airbrush moving at all times so it's not like I'm just shooting too much paint at one point.
Does anyone have any experience with getting vallejo air to work, or should I just order something different and do my own thinning?
>>
>>5857761
What psi are you spraying at and how close are you spraying to the model?
>>
>>5857761
you did put primer on the pieces first right
>>
What do you usually use to sculpt parts and pieces? Just putty?
>>
>>5857779
I've tried varying distances between about 3 and 10cm. Further away meant that very little paint got onto the model, but the stuff that did still ran.
I'm using this compressor
http://www.airbrush-iwata.com/dettaglio.asp?Area=1&cat=26&prod=311
and they don't quite clearly say how much PSI the different modes are, but I tried both the medium and the low settings, so I'm guessing 1 and 7.5.

>>5857785
Yes.
>>
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>It wasn't a nub

To anyone getting the RG Sinanju, be careful as fuck with the black trim pieces. I just fucked up both the kneecap emblems and there is some gold coming through where it shouldn't now.
>>
>>5857790
At that low of air pressure your paint possibly isn't atomizing properly and is just spraying out too wet.

This is also why we suggest getting a compressor with a regulator valve.
>>
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>>5857790
This is what it ends up looking like.

>>5857800
Alright. I managed to get this one off a friend for cheap, but if I can't make it work I'll look into getting a different one.
>>
>>5857802
Are you using a single or double action airbrush? Are you pulling the trigger all the way back and trying to paint it in one coat?
>>
>>5857537
youre the one getting lung cancer not me. whos retarded now?
>>
>>5857802
too much thinner by the looks of it
>>
>>5857802
looks like you tried to thin the paint with water wtf
>>
>>5857802
thin your paints holy hell!
>>
>>5857810
Double, and no.

>>5857828
Haven't added any figuring vallejo air is made for airbrushing. I'll try thinning and with higher pressure tonight.
>>
>>5857847
Vallejo air is thinned almost ideally, sometimes it needs more, not less. Use higher pressure and/or pull your brush away a little bit. You might also be spraying for too long. But in any case your paint is going on too wet.
>>
>>5857847
Yeah, Vallejo air is thinned pretty well, though I usually use a few drops of Vallejo medium thinner (and soon a few drops of Future to make it a bit stronger), so it doesn't clog my shitty airbrush.
>>
>>5856152
Holy shit that pose looks fucking awesome, post more.
>>
>>5857381
The hygogg has a good excuse for it being that it has water intakes as a cooling system. The helmets on those Jin-roh though has no explanation.
>>
>>5858036
It get sweaty under there man
>>
>>5855103

Oh shit, I won, awesome,

Some stiff competition in that showcase though, I was expecting that GM sniper to do well.
>>
>>5857795
shit, I ordered it, but I've built like 2 other kits years ago, and am just getting into the hobby for real. Even when it gets here, I'm going to be too afraid to open and build the thing due to my own inexperience and because of all of the stuff like this I've heard about it.
>>
Jesus christ the painting for the inner frame for the RG Astray is pure suffering.
>>
>tfw don't find the time for gunpla anymore since getting my first big boy job

My backlog is growing
>>
>>5858245
You can find time if you try.

I go to class during the day and wash dishes by night and I still find tons of time for gunpla. Usually I work at night after getting off work. I turn on a podcast and enjoy some quiet nipping, sanding, and painting.

Very therapeutic.
>>
I want to give hugs to all of you guys
>>
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>>5858097
Just be careful to those trim pieces and pay attention while denubbing. The knee ones have a nub right near the thin tip and I accidently sliced off the tip thinking it was the nub.

Also I keep forgetting how tall it is. The lower body is almost as tall as a can of coke.
>>
>>5858269
How the fuck does a small child survive that
>>
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>>5858281
By being about 100 times more powerful of an Esper than the other guy and just focusing on defense because you have a mental block about using your power on people.
>>
>>5858245
I don't reccomend getting a gf
>>
>>5858296
I wouldn't even I could
>>
>>5858294
That's some crazy shit, I gotta watch this anime. What is that?
>>
>>5858303
One ESP Man
>>
>>5857604
Thanks, I didn't paint the body at all. It's such a subtle color that it almost looks like white in all the photos.
Yeah I'm gonna clear up some of that.
>>
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>>5858303
Mob Psycho 100. Made by ONE, same guy who made One Punch Man.

It's a fun series, definitely check it out. It's only got a handful of episodes out but there is plenty of manga chapters. The Manga artstyle can be a bit low quality and inconsistent though.

And the /fit/ bros are the best bros.
>>
>>5858325
Oh wow, no wonder the characters look like Saitama with a wig.

Thanks, I'llcheck it out, it looks fun.
>>
bugu? more like butt ugly
>>
>>5858361
Yeah, it's pretty fucking ugly. It's triggering me how Origin is releasing so many ugly ass zeek designs while ignoring the Feddie's perfect looking GMs
>>
>>5858370
Because the GMs don't come until later.

Also the MS-04 looks less ugly int eh manga. The OVA killed the design.
>>
What are the chances of a RG or MG Kshatriya?
>>
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>>5858370
origin zaku is beautiful though
>>
>>5858374
The local type doesn't look like it'd come in anytime soon either. In fact, a lot of the zeek kits released never even appeared in the OVA's.

Stop making excuses and give us more GMs already!

Do you think they'll make OVAs out of the entirety of Origin or just the shitty zeekwank parts?
>>
>>5858381
well unicorn is airing, so it increases the chances significantly. there's already been hguc regular and repaired, so who knows
>>
>>5858386
Zakus sell much better than GMs.
>>
>>5858386
Those prototype guncannons look pretty good though
>>
>>5858381
>MG Kshatriya?

None. Bandai made a verdict onthis long ago. They apparently made a prototype and the binders were so heavy they required metal pins and diecast parts to remain upright which pushed the price into an amount they didn't feel comfortable selling it at.
>>
>>5858403
Too bad they're going to job HARD in the OVA.
>>
>>5858403
Yeah, they do, I'm pretty excited for them. I'm still salty though at the fact that we've gotten like two Feddie suits and too many zeek suits.

>>5858402
Yeah yeah, I've heard it countless times already, still doesn't make it any less shitty though.
How are people not getting sick of Zakus already though?
>>
>>5858387
>>5858405
so you're telling me I should just buy the HG if I want a Kshatriya?
>>
>>5858420
yeah, that's what I did. it's pretty big, even without the wing things

[spoiler]4U[/spoiler]
>>
What 1/144 can do good kneeling positions? I want something for my desk, but I don't have much heigh space before they block my screens.
>>
>>5858381

To be fair to bandai, by the time they'd done all the sculpting and casting, and created reinforced parts to hold the binders, you'd be looking at the same price as a resin version of the kit. And some of the resin versions are really nice.
>>
>>5858484
Ez8/ground type gundam
>>
>>5858484
Guncannon Revive, Origin Waff
>>
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What are the chances of us getting another G-reco release?
>>
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What's the difficulty on this HMM line like? I'm considering this beast though I know I shouldn't be.
>>
>>5858776
They're not really difficult, just tons of tiny parts. Be wary of dropping them, and/or losing pieces.
Also, they're an absolute blast to detail with paint.
>>
>>5858786
>they're an absolute blast to detail with paint.
There probably won't be much of that happening. How do they fare with just paneling and topcoat?
>>
>>5858800
Still fantastic. Honestly, if you're feeling lazy don't bother with priming entire pieces and repainting them entirely. You can just paint directly on the piece, just make sure it's nice and clean.
I've been lazy before and just painted hydraulic pumps(?) without priming or painting the rest of the piece. Still looks better than just straight panel lining.
>>
>>5858807
It's not a matter of laz--okay, it's not ENTIRELY a matter of laziness. I just don't like the way hand painted looks most of the time and I'm not willing to devote the time+money+space required for an airbrush setup. I'm also dubious of rattle cans, though I hear they can do some nice things. Considering that I'm basically treating these like pretty toys I figure I'll still get far enough.
>>
>>5858842
For small detail work like pistons, it can look great hand brushed with a black base and then vallejo silver, gunmetal grey, etc.

Oh, and some masking tape, just so you don't have to be so carefull
>>
>tfw found the missing piece of my powered gm group build entry 2 days after submission
>in the place I expected to find it the very first time I did a search.
>>
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>tfw the left side of fuunsaiki is still missing
>>
What site is the cheapest for building supplies?(except Amazon)

Stuff like cutters, knifes, drill bits, paint, topcoats, etc.

Also how many of you buy stuff like extra detail parts like metal thrusters, photoetched vents, metla ring hoses, etc. and where do you buy them?
>>
>>5859000
Do you really think you would have won?
>>
>>5859056
You can try your luck on eBay, but if you really want parts for cheap, learn to use a middleman to order that stuff for you.
>>
Anyone own an MG Infinite Justice? I'm wondering if the extra waterslides are worth the purchase.
>>
>>5859059
Not really, no. The finishing on my kit was really subpar anyway, I spent too long on the planning and modding process since it was my first time making a custom.
>>
>>5859150
Can I see it, anon?
>>
>>5859157
I'm the runner up entry, anon. The missing piece was a little square on the back of the powered gm's knee armor, so I just omitted the part from both sides.
>>
When are we going to start talking about the next group build? Maybe something for Halloween?
>>
>>5858405
Has there ever been a source for this?
>>
>>5859180
SDs
>>
>>5859180
>Maybe something for Halloween?
>FNAF Beargguy submissions
>>
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>>
>>5859190
Yeah, it looks real easy until you actually try it and it comes out 10x worse that what you had intended
>>
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>>5859195
Maybe it is just a matter of trying it over and over until you master the technique?
>>
>>5859200
Also having the right tools help
>>
>>5859202
I think the 0.7 drill-bit comes with every cheap set you can buy online.
The chisel is going to cost a lot more, but it is not that big deal.
>>
>>5859208
The chisel is what I was referring to
>>
>>5859180
You could probably make a good pumpkin Man Rodi.
>>
>>5859225
that anon specifically?
>>
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What is the pla-plate with measurements on it called? Is it a specific brand?
>>
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>>5859227
Not necessarily, but I believe in that anon.
>>
>>5859229
You can do a dullahan kimaris trooper then.

>low hanging fruit
>>
>>5859229

Aw shucks, thanks anon.
>>
>>5859228
Anyone?
>>
>>5859180
Black and Orange only.
More Edge the better.
>>
>>5859267
Edgelord group build would be the best worst thing ever.
>>
>>5859181
Crap, can't remember the specific year, but at the fall gunpla expo right around when HGUC GM custom came out they addressed some stuff about where they intend to take the various model lines. Also brought up was that they plan to finish up most of the 0083 MS for the HGUC line (Excluding the overly large things) and that they did not plan on making a MG V2 at this time because their engineering wasn't good enough yet to realistically pull off the transformation stably.
>>
>>5859346
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10132012
2011
>>
I'm looking for European web-stores that deal with styrene, CA glue, putty, cement, paints and stuff like that. Any suggestion?
>>
>>5859346
>excluding the overly large things
>xamel never
>>
>>5859337
>They're all bugus with huge mohawks
>>
>>5859401
>Bugu raider custom

I would actually like that. Would also be a good chance to try weathering as even if you fuck up and do a bad job it still would kind of fit the theme and look.
>>
>>5859266
>>5859228
>find image of thing
>take that image from place you found it
>post it somewhere else entirely, ask what it is
>give absolutely no context, no links, no site where it was originally found
>ask about it again impatiently an hour later
Get fucked.
>>
>>5859422
That anon probably can't find it because they are searching for "plaplate" which isn't what it is called.
>>
>>5858385
What makes that really nice texture, is it paint or the fact that it's not an 8 dollar GM?
>>
>>5859422
Seems like a pretty legit question to me, dunno why you're so mad.

>>5859228
>>5859266
no replies because no one knows the answer
>>
How about a non-gunpla group build?
>>
>>5859452
What, like a Frame Arms group build? It mite b cool if more people were willing to forego bandai kits (Asides from spare parts for customs)
>>
File: 20160816_214953.jpg (164KB, 1211x735px) Image search: [Google]
20160816_214953.jpg
164KB, 1211x735px
These Frame Robo candy toys, after separating the parts from the runner and assembling the robot, you can disassemble it and peg it back together into a complete runner....
>>
>>5859460
Scale models and other misc stuff as well, like scifi, anime girls, resin. Though most of these are non beginner friendly, may be expensive, hard to find or take a long time to build.

>>5859465
I think it looks like shit with all the connectors sticking out
>>
>>5859422
The image is there for reference on the kind of plastic I was asking about.
There is no context about it.
>>
>>5859467
>looks like shit
Yeah but if you trim the connectors it kills the infinite-snap-fitting gimmick. wut do.
>>
>>5859508
Don't buy it
>>
File: robotturkey.jpg (56KB, 720x400px) Image search: [Google]
robotturkey.jpg
56KB, 720x400px
>>5858361
Nice
>>
when you start painting? i build roll from kotobukiya and wanted to paint her, but just now realize that i need to paint the inner part of the joint and i don't know how to do it.

also i can't unbuild some parts like the arms because i used super glue in some parts because it keep opening.
>>
>>5858361
Those ladders on the shoulder kill it. They should've just gone with tiny, separate ladders like you get with military models or use metal parts. They look hideous.

Also, isn't that machine gun the EFF Ground forces machine gun?
>>
>>5859228
No one knows. You can probably just draw some guide lines yourself with a ruler and pencil.
>>
>>5859661
but photoetch is not for kids.

How will we get the skew?
>>
>>5859661
>separate ladders like you get with military models or use metal parts
You can easily replicate them with jewellers wire. Just make a folding template and then you will have the Unlimited Ladder Works.
Difficulty level: 1
>>
File: 20150321_175951-1.jpg (2MB, 2047x1118px) Image search: [Google]
20150321_175951-1.jpg
2MB, 2047x1118px
>>5859661
In Origin the early prototype MS had a simple bullpup rifle similar to the one the EF used. The upcoming guncannons have it or something similar as well.
>>
>>5859337
So much opportunity to experiment when you are trying to be goofy
>>
>>5859465
It's not a candy toy, it doesn't come with candy. You fucking useless moron.
>>
File: 20160816_193400.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]
20160816_193400.jpg
2MB, 3264x1836px
My 1/100 barbatos and assorted tools arrived today. Here's my progress. Also, any idea what the yellow piece and the 3 rad handled tools in the pic are for? The 3 tools seem like chisels or sanding implements beca use they're coarsely textured, but I have no idea about the yellow thing.
>>
>>5860289
No idea about the yellow, but the other things are most likely just files.
>>
>>5860289
Yellow thing looks like it might be for prying apart parts. Red ones are files.
>>
>>5860294
>>5860289
yep. parts seperator
>>
>>5860289
you can also use the yellow part seperator to wrap sandpaper around and make a flat sanding stick
>>
Does anyone have an example of a candy coat with gold metallic instead of silver?

I kind of want to see the difference between the two
>>
>>5860289
The red tools look like diamond files.
>>
>>5860333
candy coating is just a meme
>>
>>5860333
Clear yellow over gold looks real nice, other colors prolly not so much, maybe orange or light red might look good too?
>>
File: scope.jpg (234KB, 1200x795px) Image search: [Google]
scope.jpg
234KB, 1200x795px
>>5860333
>candy coat with gold metallic
>>
>>5860500
Are you albino?
>>
>>5860526
It's gloves senpai.
>>
>>5860526
>touching your painted gunpla with your oily fingers before it's fully topcoated
>>
>>5860500
Neat. I love the warm glowing sunset color.

I think I'll use gold instead of silver now.
>>
>>5860533
Nah he's albino
>>
New thread: >>5860697
Thread posts: 333
Thread images: 81


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