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Scale Model Kit General Thread

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Thread replies: 334
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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/

Previous Thread >>5774244
>>
Lol that image
>>
What do you guys think is the most popular/knowledgeable scale modelling discussion board/forum?
>>
>>5794832
>most popular
>knowledgeable

this has nothing to do with each other

Most forums these days are just hugboxes these days.
>>
What would you guys recommend for a Tank / aircraft of Second World War era. I don't really have one that pops out at me, I feel that they would all be interesting to make
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>>5794863
> I feel that they would all be interesting to make

Make a list and roll a dice?

Maybe you should tell your prefered scale first though.

Or, follow my advise and build an T-34 41
>>
>>5794892
1/35 is preferred
>>
>>5794896
If you really don't know what to build, check the "sale" section of your preferred hobby store.

For example:
https://www.dersockelshop.de/SwagCustomCategories?filterMode=pseudo

Also check Amazon Warehouse deals, they sometimes offer kits for half the price and only the box is a little damaged.
>>
>>5794832
Brit modeller is really good
>>
>>5794832
Armorama, I'd say. They have some really knowledgeable people
>>
>>5794907
I'm going to check out Amazon because here in Calgary the models are outrageously expensive (Around 75$ for a Tamiya Tiger I)
>>
>>5795014
They're not much better on Amazon. A decent model will go for upwards of $300.
>>
can you guys name me good brands for models?
I don't want to stray away from Tamiya without knowing the average quality of the brand
>>
>>5795030
doesn't really work like that, you decide what you want to build then google which the best kit is.
>>
>>5795033
Ah, sorry just starting models
>>
>>5795041
nothing to be sorry for, its just not a simple question.
there are some manufacturers that make generally good if somewhat expensive kits.

but theres a lot of kids made from old molds, from the 60s 70s out threre.
some manufacturers still use old molds, and just re box them.
theres no consistency to it.

you have to look at multiple places.
scalemates is good for telling if somethings a rebox.
and kit reviews are good for seeing what details like.
and then if still unsure, ask is x kit gud?
someone might suggest something else better, cheaper etc.
>>
>>5794972
I do agree, while the standard can be low, we have some real talent.
>>
Planning to do a Tamiya Panzerkampfwagen III Ausf L and a Hetzer, what company is the best for a Hetzer
>>
>>5795144
Academy do a good one I think
>>
>>5795155
The academy one comes with two figures and they also have one with airbrush stencils included afaik.
Ask scalemates for everything else.
>>
I think i'm going to get an air brush as well as a micro brush for chipping
>>
>>5795021
>$300

WTF?

Just buy the kits from ebay then.
>>
>>5795030

Most brands aren't all good or all shit. Some old kits suck, some old kits are actually hidden gems, some new kits suck ass, some new kits are superb.. some brands re-box old kits from other companies etc..

If you want to build something, think about what exactly, then think about the scale.. then you go to scalemates.com and see whats available in your desired scale for that vehicle and then you check the reviews of these.
>>
>>5795144
What Scale?

Tamiya does Hetzer in both 1:35/1:48 as well.
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>>5795233
I'm 1/35
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>>5795021
>"decent"
>300$
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>>5794832
This place obviously.
>>5795030
As >>5795061 and >>5795231 said its more about "what" you wanna build and work from that but I'll list the best overall companies (random order and based on my personal experiences/opinion):
Tamiya (really well engineered/detailed overall, but suffers from riding old ass molds and charging a high price for all their shit)
Dragon (more complex to build and offers a extremely wide range of things, nice extras like barrels and PE but lately have been catching tamiya fever)
Meng (relatively news, really beautiful kits, workable plastic tracks are the norm but their catalogue is rather short atm, a bit expensive)
Takom (nice kits, beautiful details, individual track links, new subjects and overall really good yet more demanding to build than tamiya)
Trumpeter (their old kits are meh, but they offer a LOT of different afvs and stuff from all periods (ww2 to actuality) for a good price (average of 45€))
>>5793755
Pic related, the zimmerit is falling apart; the mg barrel, tools, spare tracks and decals are missing (in the box wherever is it). The paint is good but some areas are poorly repaired with putty (what the fuck I was thinking) or simply a component is missing. It can be salvaged and I think I will do it after the chieftain.
I have planned to buy her metal tracks to substitute the rubber ones and some eduard or aber PE for the exterior, in case I can't find spare German equipment of in the spare box at least I will have the brackets.
The barrel is glued and needs a rework but that will be easy. What it worries me is the paint job, should I prime it and paint again on top? Or just paint on top the old paint and be done?
Also the lack of decals buggers me, gonna need some aftermarket ones or improvise.
Overall I remember it in worse shape but can be worked on so I'll try to keep it historical, maybe some unit in Germany '45. Got my eyes in the frundsberg division maybe (I like their emblem)...
>>
>>5795483
>and charging a high price for all their shit)

That is simply not true.

Lots of their old 1:35 tanks are cheaper than 1:72 tanks made by other companies. Their 1:48 military vehicles are between 15-20€, which in my eyes is a really good price.
Its only their really new kits that get costy.

They have some cheap planes too (though i'm not an expert with planes so i have no idea how they compare to other companies).
>>
>>5795483
Continuing te long ass list of model maker brands:
Miniart (lately are making really good kits and figures but low choice of afvs atm)
Afv club (most of it is good, but sometimes do weird stuff or wrong details)
Bronco (a bit inconsistent but some are really good like their gaz jeep, check before buying)
Revell (pretty meh overall, but for the price are good)
Italeri (in for a wacky ride, these guys are in the Oxford dictionary description of inconsistent, their p40 and lv tankete are beautiful kits with PE and turned barrels and extra rivets for the places the mold could do it for example, but others are a pile of scrap plastic so be sure to check what you are buying)
These are the brands I'm more familiar with and I would consider the best. Probably there are some others even better but this is an overall view. Personally I would stick to sale tamiya kits as they are no bullshit all fun, trumpeter for medium learning or dragon for something more fancy. revell and italeri aren't really bad but can be a bit frustrating and varies from kit to kit.
>>
>>5795502
I mean overall, their old kits are mostly on sale always, but it's not weird to see their 90s Panthers sold at 50€ or stuff like that. And their newer releases (post 00) are quite pricy for a "basic" kit, not saying they are bad but compared with what dragon offers for example they are pretty basic
>>
>>5795510
>>5795483

There are plenty of other brands too, and while most of it is true i wouldn't call a company like Revell "meh".

Its just that their kits are better for beginners who would be overwhelmed by a Meng or even Dragon kit. The more simple (and less expensive) Revell (or Airfix) kits are a way better choice then.
For advanced modelers these brands get less and less interesting and in a way their kits aren't as good, but that doesn't mean that these are bad kits. (i hope that makes sense somehow).
>>
>>5795531
Yes, you are right. I sounded a bit harsh with them and biased towards complexity
>>
>>5795030
Fujimi and Aoshima make some good car scales and accessories.
>>
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Starting with dot fading. It's a really subtle effect, so much that I'll most likely do a second round of it. Nevertheless, it makes the colors look a bit more lively.
>>5795483
Are my eyes wrong or is the mantlet upside down?
Either way, totally looks salvageable. I'd skip the primer but you might want to spray an even coat of dunkelgelb or something, if you want to attempt shading.
>>
>>5795676
It looks like it is in the picture but it's the zimmerit mantled, that is quite edgy (mainly my fault while gluying it years ago, never done so much PE as in that kit) I think i can't reshape it or maybe it can be popped off. Misteries until I rescue the whole thing. As for the painting it worries me the loss of definition of the zimmerit but two coats of paint shouldn't clog the pattern I hope
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Almost done. Working on the lighting rig underneath
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>>5795755
That's neat, anon. You make me want an A-Wing too.
>>
>>5795755
Really cool, I hope I can do some good looking Star Wars ships someday too. Now take another picture with the lights on and not upside down.
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Do you guys all airbrush or do any of you guys paint? Seems like all your models are well done when it comes to the camo.
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>>5795991
I think the majority airbrush but I am paint degenerate
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What's a good colour for 80's Soviet tank green? It must have changed since 4BO production stopped sometime in the mid 40's. Furthermore, I'm unable to find many camoflauge schemes from this period as the CSFG seems to have only employed one-tone schemes on their T-72s, and I can't figure out what to go with. I work with enamels, so my options right now are:

>Plain H116 US Dark Green
>Plain H117 US Light Green
>1 H26 Khaki + 1 H116 US Dark Green
>3 H117 US Light Green + 2 H116 US Dark Green
>Testors Olive
>>
Hey modelers, how does my M48 look so far? Tracks need work I know, and I should've filled the gap for the upper and lower hull. It's the old tamiya kit. The fitting was really shitty between those two parts.
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>>5796137
Forgot my image.
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>>5796138
Looks mostly nice, but that sticker on the front is really jarring
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>>5796138
why is the left track flap broken?
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>>5796240
It happens, battle damage, tank rolling through a puddle or something and flips it up or removes it from the bolts all together.
>>
>>5794972
First time hearing about this website, got to say it's going to be a place a spend too much time on lol
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>>5796155
>sticker
Gundamfags LEAVE
>>
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Bandai Clone Trooper 501st legion and Outlander Trooper
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>>5796290
be aware, its one of these "no critic allowed"-forums
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>not spoilering your hetzer
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>>5796619
d-did you paint these with sharpies?
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>>5796637
Air brush broke had to hand paint using testors navy blue
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>>5796628
i mean decals are well done, paint is thin and there's even a light wash, but i'ts still weebshit and profanation to one of the best looking afv of ww2.

also lack of gloss coat triggers me
>>
>>5796103
I don't use enamels to paint but I'll try to help. In my case I bought for my btr A.mig 083 "zashchitniy zeleno xb518" which according to them (I believe it as this mig dude researches a lot) is like the post wwii green used. They also have a little kit of soviet camouflage I think, but if you don't wanna use acrylics acording the color profiles provided by trumpeter the base green is "light green" with refs for:
Model master: 1713
Humbrol: 117
Tamiya: xf20 (they have enamels too)
Mr hobby: h303 (just in case you can look this up elsewhere)
I think you have a lot of options now to sort it out, if you need the sand color or the black just ask. As for color profiles I have some from the osprey book or you can look it up in some aftermarket decal providers that have color profiles. Ask I'll post pics
>>5796138
Shame about the gap but just learn a lesson and buy some tamiya white putty next time. Also the washes (?) are a bit thick, they need more blending and fade out. If you can't take out the tracks to paint them and initial weathering cover them in mud. You can do with white spirits/paris plaster/pigments or enamels and some fine dirt and fibers
>>5796628
>Ayyy
I wanna do this, it's yours? Where did you get those rims?
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>>5796642
Not sure of the rims
http://www.wonderexcellence.com/we2016/rhz/rhz.htm
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>>5796644
This guy is really good. As for the rims I'm guessing they are custom printed decals. And maybe cannibalizing a racing car kit can bring some results like this...
>>
>>5796648
I checked on twitter, I think they are just random BBS plamo wheels.
>>
>>5796619
You can mask even when hand brushing you know
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>>5796672
I prefer mine handpainted to get that look
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>>5796628
I love it
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>>5796628
Hetzer-san?
>>
>>5796619
You really gotta work on your painting m8
>>
>>5796644
Thats amazing
>>
>>5796246
>Gettin ptsd, but with style
>>
>>5796743
Are Meng models any good? They seem very expensive?
>>
>>5796715
Well guess what, doesn't work like that
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>>5797012
They are good and worth their price, but i wouldn't recommend them for a beginner.

Check reviews on scalemates for specific kits.
>>
Is it possible to find 1:100 scale ship models?
>>
Are there any good model companies that go as far as accurately modeling the suspension of tank tracks?
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>>5797027
Friul?
>>
>>5797027
Most up-to-date model kits feature detailed suspensions. If you want it workable, there are some companies that do that too (Amusing Hobby, Dragon in some tanks, just to name a few)
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>fuggg this is going to be a pita to sand
Remember to always check if the needle is tightly secured before airbrushing...
>>5797012
As >>5797018 said they are really good but they have a lot of pieces and might be overhelming for starters. Worth the price, check their YouTube channel because they have some speed builds (~40 min) of some of their kits
>>5797019
Check here
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/
But that's a weird as fuck scale, it's from war gaming or train models?
Also heller had some old sail ships in some scale like that if I remember well. Anyway the closest "standard" scale would be 1:350
>>
>>5797108
What did you fucking do. Jesus Christ
>>
>>5797154
I was cleaning the airbrush a bit before starting with the primer, and when I put in the needle again I forgot to tighten the retainer. So it worked like "normal" at first but when I pushed it back it stayed there and emptied almost all the cup in a quite spectacular way before I realized my little mistake
>>
>>5797108
War gaming, i have a large pool setuo where my friends and i pratice our ship battle skills
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>>5797168
Based vajello primer. Leveled and unfucked itself quite a bit, still a messy disgrace but with less work
>>5797169
I checked scalemates for ships and there is none, except "wood" ones. 1:200 would be your best choice then with a lot of wwii options and newer
>>
How hard would it be to build a 1:10 model of a battleship?
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>>5797194
you'd need a big room and a crew of people working on it
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>>5797194
Are you autistic? This is what a 1/10 scale model of the Yamato looks like.
>>
>>5797194
For example:
The Bismarck had a length of 251 m (823 ft 6 in) overall
Now converted to escale 1/10:
>25.1 meters of model
You can sort it out yourself from here how difficult would it be
>>
>>5797205
I have a big yard, i think i could do it. Getting everything perfectly molded is what scares me tho.
>>
>>5797221
Since you likely dont have access to a metal factory to do molds youll need to make wooden frames and then layer thin plywood ontop to fit the curves and what not.

Its going to be very expensive.
>>
>>5797221
You would probably need a few million in machinery and materials to build a 1/10 scale anything alone, let alone a battleship. More if with people to help you. Let's look at a smaller battleship, the USS South Dakota. it was 680ft. in length. At 1/10 that's 68 feet total. That's the size of a small yacht, but you're not building a yacht, that would probably be cheaper. Everything has to be hand-fabricated from scratch.
Having the amount of space doesn't mean jack shit. You would need a crew of people to study blueprints, photographs, and plan everything out. You can't just start building, planning alone by one person could take years. Do you think one person built the model in the related picture? It was built for a museum, probably hundreds of people helped build and design the thing over the course of a few years.
Then the assembly begins. You would have to have to be an expert at wood-working, metal-working and scratch-building in order to get anything done, something I highly doubt one random anon posting on this obscure image board has.
>Getting everything perfectly molded
You wouldn't be molding anything, you would have to cut metal, weld things together, cut and shape wood with expensive tools that not many people have access to. Then you have to get all the small details like AA guns, antenna masts, etc. each of which could take months to just build one thing from scratch.

Do you have a job, family etc? How would you even plan to accomplish such a pipe dream?
>>
>>5797239
I live alone and am self employed, i have enough money to pursue my hobby.

I will build my desired ship and shitpost from it to remind you all that i was the superior model builder in the end. Mark my words.
>>
Are there any super detailed 1:35 tank models for WWII? By super detail i mean inside and out.
>>
>>5797253
I want to be proven wrong badly.
>>
>>5797257
yes
>>
>>5797253
Then why the fuck are you posting this here and not someplace like modelwarships?

No one here is going to take you seriously buddy, good luck, but I won't believe that a single person could ever achieve anything like
>>5797205
alone.
>>
>>5797257
A lot. Either kits made with interiors or aftermarket kits for the ones that are "hollow". What afv you have in mind? To make it shorter for example miniart makes a beautiful su-122 with full interior, or takom is going to release a full interior king tiger (both Porsche and Henschel turrets) with sweet real armor thickness. But if you had to ask something like this, these projects are too big for you. Better start small and then work to more complex things
>>
Is there anything i should know before i start hand brush painting my first model? In using tamiya paints.
>>
>>5797269
I was hoping for nazi and slavboo tanks and tds
>>
>>5797263
Also, the fact that you're even posting here without first hand knowledge about how you would do it yourself tells me you have no idea of how complex that type of build would be.

Look at this for example. This guy has been working on a 1/100 Bismark for almost a decade now, a decade. You're talking about building something that is 10x bigger.

http://forum.modelismo-na.net/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8612&sid=f56b14e7037147b17356cc8b735cfcd0&start=855
>>
>>5797274
If you aren't very experienced you might want to check out the various 1:48 T-34 versions by hobby boss.
They are kinda cheap (10-15€ depending where i look), include 390+ parts and come with some photo etched parts as well as full interior and are incredibly detailed for a kit of that scale and that price.

From there, you can always take a step ahead and get one of the more expensive kits.

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/104944-hobby-boss-84809-t-34-85-tank
>>
>>5797257
Plenty, look at more recent Takom releases. They just came out with a KT kit that is fully detailed, inside and out.

Dragon has plenty of kits with full interiors, their panzer 38(t) kit comes to mind. They have multiple Panzer IVs with varying degrees of interior as well.

Academy makes a Tiger I with full interior and exterior. Trumpeter has a bunch of soviet tanks with full interiors such as the T-34.
>>
>>5796628
this really
>>5796641
the person who did it has skill but the fact its anime poop is no good.
>>
>>5797274
>I was hoping for nazi and slavboo tanks and tds
>post mentions a Russian spg/spat and one of the most famous German tanks
????
>>
>>5797272
Just from personal experience I haven't had much success with hand brushing tamiya paints. Consider Vallejo. Tamiya is better airbrushed imho.
>>
>>5797315
Even when airbrushed it seems like Tamiya's pigments are really large in diameter and never settles into a really nice, smooth finish.
>>
>>5797272
Take it from an expert on japanese paints, thin light coats.
>>
Not sure if this is the right place or not but where would i go about finding a company that makes female human models with inserts for fleshlights?
>>
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>>5797221
guy did build a titanic in his garden, would get soggy pretty fast tho.
>>
>>5797337
What scale are we talkin'? 1/16?
>>
>>5797345
Perferably 1:1 like a real female girl
>>
>>5797337
Check aniani or 1999.co.jp
>>
>>5797322
That's simply not true. I almost exclusively use Tamiya for airbrushing and I always get great results. Try thinning it with a lacquer thinner.
>>
>>5797355
Why would(or should) I need to use lacquer thinner to thin synthetic acrylics?
>>
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small
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>>5797365
>>
>>5797365
Why
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>>5797370
>>
>>5797363
Tamiya acrylics aren't true acrylics. They behave more like lacquers. They are alcohol, hot water based. You can thin them with lacquer thinners for much better results. Tamiya makes their own lacquer thinner designed for their paints, but Mr. Hobby's brand thinners work just as well.
>>
>>5797363
Because Tamiya acrylics are basically lacquers. That's why they don't thin well with water or other other acrylic thinners. In fact, they thin exceptionally well with Mr. Levelling Thinner
>>
Tamiya arcylics gets pretty girls to give tutorials for its :3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMcWNX3LlQ4
>>
So I bought like 5 tamiya cement containers and figured i'd combine them all into one of those like plastic ketchup bottles for easier use, boy was that a bad idea.

It was fine at first, but then I woke up this morning to my model being completely ruined, my desk has the shit all over it. Basically it ate a hole in the bottle and then just poured out in a puddle.
>>
>>5797447
>did not know how plastic glue works

post pics already
>>
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>>5797447
>>
>>5797447
post pics of model
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>>5797372
Is this the Nisshin or Mizuho?
>>
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>>5797510
Nisshin. And Chitose here.
>>
>>5797447
>Plastic glue
>In plastic bottle
Wha....Ho...
that's a special kind of retarded
>>
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Done. 1/3
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>>5797704
2/3: the fucking mess underneath. 8 leds, 2 fiber optic leads, and a flasher/555 circuit.

First time using a circuit board too.
>>
>>5797709
Engines lit. Webm of lights coming soon.

I really need a good camera and a lightbox
>>
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>>5797710
>>
>>5797253
I think you're full of shit, but at the same time, I really REALLY want to see you build a 1:10 scale battleship in your back yard. That would seriously be the coolest shit ever.
>>
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well, here it is.

Like I said. I need a better camera and a ligthbox.

But I'm super proud of this.
>>
>>5797751
Good work, anon
>>
>>5797365
>>5797370
>>5797372
>>5797531
I'm confused. Is any of the pictures related to something that you're building? Is the first one your own picture at least?
>>
>>5797863
I highly doubt its his own stuff, if you reverse image search it's from some Japanese website.
>>
>>5796592
kill yourself
>>
>>5797531
Time for the eternal question: how did you achieve that rigging?
>>
>>5796626

No it's not. That's ISM, where you can only criticise if you're expressly asked to. Which is bullshit. BM just has a 'constructive' criticism policy, because there's no need to be a cunt.
>>
>>5797909
Yeah that's what I did. I didn't find the first picture but seeing as the filenames are similar I guess he just swiped them of some other site.
>>5797971
See >>5797909
>>
>>5797954
No U
>>
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>>5796103
>decide to go with the 2 H116 + 3 H117 mix
>it's almost exactly the same color as the base plastic

So uh... skip the base coat then?
>>
>>5798485
never skip the base coat
>>
>>5798505
Never skip base coat day.
>>
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>>5797019
It's possible to be LIBERATED by the 1/100 russian soldiers!
>>
>>5798553
Why do eargamers have those retarded scales? Why not just stick with 1/72?
>>
>>5798576
because 1/72 (20mm) is to big for many things. Its a popular scale actually, but you kinda need huge tables if you want to portrait actual battles in that scale.
>>
>>5798592
At typical engagement ranges of ships, that guys pool table would have to be 2km square.
>>
>>5797709
can you post the schematics of the breadboard?
>>
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>>5797709
>>
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Anyone know a good way to paint 1/12 scale rubber tank treads? I don't want these black, but no matter how many coats I put on these the paint sticks to surfaces and comes off. Flat clear doesn't help either.
>>
>>5798891
Lacquer or enamel metallic dry brush. If they are like tamiya rubber tracks their metallic acrylics also stick. That's the lazy way out.
The hard way would be taking them out, priming them in grey, painting them rust or black (although black tracks are rare) and weather them a bit, put them back and do the finishing touches
>>
>>5797427

You can't claim this girl is pretty. She has stubby hands, so she is probably fat.
>>
>>5798905
I'll try the dry brush. I've been using Tamiya spray and flat clear brush so I'll see what happens.
>>
Anyone know any good Model shops in LA? I can't seem to find any using Yelp or google. Trying to pick up a beginner's airbrush among other supplies.
>>
>>5799152
Jungle in Little Tokyo stocks Mr. Color.
>>
>>5798923
Post pics of the build
>>
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Meng FT-17 is finished
>>
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>>5800067
>>
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This thread is gettin pretty low energy folks.
I'm resuming the btr. It suffers from trumpeters low "builders perspective" as they just want high mould quality sprues and it suffers from this in some pieces. Mainly the clear periscopes that, in all their foresight, put the feeding right on the part that is seen from the outside, leaving the periscope below clear of cleaning, but who the fuck cares about something that can be seen unless you pull the hull apart? They need to be carefully sanded but some lost their sharp square shape I had to re sand to get them straight again. A lot of work for something so meh.
I'm still not sure what to do with the interior. From the hatches you can see very little, only the the driver and commander seats in front or part of the bench in the back so it's not worth it to paint it all. Or even to leave the hatches open. The soviet troops ride the btr almost all opened and on top in Afghanistan (and I in general) so having it all closed might be unnatural for the theater.
Also I wanna share a tip, that perhaps most know about it but for me was something that happened as a byproduct on other builds and never payed attention to it until now, if you mix tamiya white putty and tamiya extra thin cement you can create a liquid micro filler. Perfect to fill gaps between hull/rail and things like that, but be careful due the destructive nature of both products. I guess that thinned with lacquer thinner you can archive a similar result and apply it with a brush without having to buy tamiya liquid surface primer or mr surfacer
>>
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>>5800069
As always constructive criticism is very welcome.
>>
>>5800072
What scale is it?
I like the tracks and the paint work gives an applied on the field vibe very fitting, mud well done, except the back that perhaps it’s too thick for a vertical surface. But lacks "defined" pin washes (the ones I can see are too thick and/or smeared) and some surfaces I can’t pin point what exactly but they look funny. Overall a lovely tank, what unit represents that white triangle?
>>
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whippet
>>
>>5800084
It's 1/35, and chinese.

For once I will blame the camera, there are defined pin washes, they are just subtle
>>
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m113a3 by academy
>>
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wip british infantryman
>>
>>5800089
thats an interesting option for markings, and as long it looks irl all is good. Maybe a chain in the back would be a cool complement
>>5800090
'Nam or what theather do you have planned for it?
>>
>>5800104
>Maybe a chain in the back would be a cool complement
Probably, but my budget is severely limited at the moment.
>m113a3

One in the 2003 Iraq War.
>>
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Trying a more realistic approach to wooden tools. Metal is still to be painted.
How'd I do, any tips?
>>
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>>5800133
>>
>>5800091
1/35 or 1/32?
>>
>>5800164
1/35
>>
>>5800090
how do they want you to do the periscopes here, they are solid shut, paint or sometihng like that?
>>5800133
i like it, althought it looks more like carved wood. Maybe some long ultrathin lines like in >>5800137 to break the effect
>>
>>5800169
Just going to paint them.
>>
>>5798688
If I told you Id have to kill you
>>
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>>5800067
>>5800069
>>5800072
Saw you post this on [spoiler]Reddit[/spoiler]. Looks good anon. Maybe add a mud color that is less similar to the hull color next time, like a darker mud brown. Aside from that good work.

>>5800133
Looks nice, how did you achieve the effect? Oils?

I'm still working on my USS Indianapolis, haven't done anything in a few days, but I should finish it up soon.

Next I ordered a Trumpeter Prinz Eugen with a Flyhawk photo etch / brass update set from China, as well as a Pontos teak wood deck. Only cost me $200 for everything, only con is shipping will take a while.
>>
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Scratchbuilt a light tower. Still working on it.
>>
Requesting pics from shipwreck guy
>>
>>5800437
Looks cool anon, what's it for?
>>
>>5800345
I was going for a lighter Asian-colour mud, and was going to mix a sandy colour too, but forgot.
>>
>>5800345
The Prinz Eugen is a beautiful ship (maybe I should get the 1/700 version). My father is building the same kit right now and the standard PE doesn't seem to be the best so it's smart of you to replace it with a better PE/brass set.
>>5800437
An addition to the A-Wing hangar?
>>
>>5800515
>an addition to the A-wing hangar?

Apparently my work room is very recognizable
>>
>>5800515
Yeah, Trumpeter's photo etch is just terrible honestly, especially for ships. They provide rails, but they force you to cut them to length yourself, it's really shitty. Flyhawk's set is also very comprehensive and gives you brass barrels to replace the plastic. I might also get some aftermarket replacements for the smaller 20mm AA guns and the 10.5cm cannons like the ones Veteran Models makes, only thing is they are very expensive.
>>
Any recommendations for a good acrylic metallic paint? I use the vallejo aluminum and it always looks like shit, especially when airbrushed
>>
>>5800534
Acrylic is generally not as good as enamels or lacquers for metallics. What exactly are you painting? Try using Alclad, or AK Interactive's metallic airbrush paint. Alternatively, AK makes a wax metallic paint that you can apply with a brush and then buff to a high shine, it's supposed to be pretty nice.
>>
>>5800540
I guess ill have to. I just hate cleaning non acryls out of my brush. Feels like I waste a ton of thinner
>>
>>5800567
Clean with acetone, why do you use thinner to clean you rich man?
>>
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Currently in the process of doing a dot filter over the upper hull 5H grey, once that's done I'll do another over the navy blue and then a final one over the hull red. After that I'll do some rust and other streaking over the upper and lower hull.

I'm also in the process of building a display case for it once its finished. Going to use plexiglass and a wood base.

I'm not sure if the water level stencils are accurate, but I put them on anyways since the kit came with them and they look nice.
>>
>>5800848
You build beautiful models and make me want to build ships. Im almost running out of star wars kits so maybe thatll be next
>>
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Here's what I got done today. First progress on this kit that I bought in the winter/spring.

What about you?
>>
>>5801001
A little context would be nice, what is the kit? Looks like some sort of engine?
>>
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>>5801008
The L24E out of a 240Z. Finally found the motivation/courage to start on the Tamiya 1/12 Z with the G-nose. Not my photo, but the kit. Everything about it is very nice. There's also a ZG Custom in the same scale that comes with more race-ish details including a set of Watanabes, but the price for that is much, much higher than for the 'regular' S30.

This is my first "big boy," model in a long, long time. Today I got 6 spark plugs and the block sanded.
>>
>get a Tamiya Leopard 1 model
>open it up
>the bottom hull has a frowny face on it

what kind of message are they trying to send to me?
>>
>>5801074
>unworthy of it
post pic
>>
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>>5801089
>>
>>5800525
It looks Star Wars-esque and I only know of one poster who's doing some scratch building for his ships so I made a qualified guess. Keep up the good work.
>>
what kind of paint brushes do you guys use for super small details?
>>
>>5801265
Small ones.
>>
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>>5801541
>>
>>5797709
Why single 9v configuration? Couldn't you get better results from portable mobile phone chargers? It would be replaceable and rechargeable as well. Probably would only cost you about 5 9v batteries too
>>
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>>5801001
I'll finish this eventually, planning on adding tall grass to the base and mud onto the tracks once my motivation returns
>>
>>5801730
Looks nice; which kit is that?
>>
>>5801748
AFV Club 1/35 Centurion Shot Kal

It's a pretty detailed kit, though AFV club kits tend to have a lot of flash
>>
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Getting there slowly. I can't find spare btr80 wheels anywhere, except some expensive resin ones that shipping would cost me almost the same just for a spare.
Also I tried amig 083 (Russian long ass name green) inside with a brush, and it's a mess. Can't recommend it for brush painting, airbrush seems the only option. On the bright side the color is on point with a green tone like the real one and a satin/bit glossy finish
>>5798688
I'm the anon who posted the schematic some threads ago with the 555 timer, I'll pass you another pic if this is not clear enough. It's a really basic electronic circuit and the result (blink) can be archived with other schematics but this one gives good results. Buy a universal breadboard and a socket for the 555 so you don't burn it while soldering. I think a-wing anon was the one that requested it and use it (?) atleast for what I could see on his webm
>>5800196
Another option is cutting little mirror plastic sheets and gluing them (like those party shiny things to hang on the walls and things like that)
>>5800848
Yeah boi, the crane is PE? Looks really good. Also the prinz is a really good looking ship, can't wait to see it started. On a note on the oil work, I would use smaller dots and with more variety so it looks more "on scale" the tonal variety, but as long it gives you results all is good
>>5801020
Where the fuck did you find this old ass kit? Glad to see it as I love Datsuns but it's weird to see one of these, atleast where I live
>>
Russian ammo crates in WW2, were they simply "wood"-colored or were they painted in green?
>>
>>5801982
>it depends
Would be the most accurate answer. They where mostly finished in wood as they cut resources and were quickly discarded/destroyed or repurposed. You can't go wrong with wood, but green it's also the correct answer specially for weapons like mines or field equipment that required reuse or being close to the enemy
>>
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>>5801958
>>5800071
mmmm, Korobochka...
>>
>>5802026
Thanks. I'll see if i can find a few reference pics before i make my decision
>>
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>>5798576
Because I can
>>
>>5802038
>Tovarich!
Really good paint work, although the boots look a bit weird. I really need to get my shit together with figures to live up the builds. Also from what kit it is?
>>5802043
Fuck that’s really small, how do you not lose them? Specially if you play with them
>>
>>5801730
Neat. Centurions are cool.

Too bad they couldn't get them rolled out quicker. At typical engagement ranges the 17pdr would tear right through Tigers and most likely make a mess of Panthers.
>>
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>>5802060
>Specially if you play with them

Not him, but miniatures that small are usually glued onto a base for a whole unit.

pic kinda related
>>
>>5801958
>Where the fuck did you find this old ass kit? Glad to see it as I love Datsuns but it's weird to see one of these, atleast where I live

I was in my local hobby shop on the right day at the right time with the right amount of cash in my pocket. I guess it had been sitting around in the back for a while.
>>
>>5802076
That makes sense, but perhaps for modern warfare which relies more on individual movements would be weird a whole squad moving around like that
>>5802078
Lucky, how much did it cost you? Here they have the "new" 240zg street custom which is quite expensive. Although I'm not a car guy and I've only done burago kits when I was younger (which were really fun) I kinda wanna try civilian cars, mainly do wrc Impreza, some martini racing Porsches and some Datsun. But they are expensive, especially 1/12 tamiyas despite their age
>>
>>5802165
I think it was 60 buckos. Swoop.

I wish I had the Custom, though, because the stock steelies are really pretty sad looking compared to the Watanabes, and the Custom's got some fancier bling for the engine as well (I think chrome plated or actual metal scale Mikunis)
>>
>>5802165
>That makes sense, but perhaps for modern warfare which relies more on individual movements would be weird a whole squad moving around like that

That all depends on the scale of the miniatures. It works fine for around 15mm or 1/100 scale. But larger minis like 25 or 28mm it would be awkward.
>>
I'm usually not shilling for stores and such, but the german electronics chain "Media Markt" has a Summer Sale going on right now.
And i figured that they also sell Revell kits.
Mostly plane sets including paint/glue but also lots of star wars kits.

Some are extremely cheap
http://www.mediamarkt.de/de/product/_revell-06688-1935969.html

http://www.mediamarkt.de/de/product/_revell-64896-1984976.html

Maybe thats useful for some of you
>>
>>5802172
>60 dollars
Wew I wish, I can order the custom for like 120€ which is a no go for a first kit in a new field for me.
The custom has some really sweet rims, maybe you can order them as a "replacement part", as for the engine it’s reworked and includes PE and metal parts for the carburetors (that look like mikunis but not officially licensed I think) so it enhances the look of the build quite a bit.
>>5802178
Interesting, I’ve always thought they all had those bases like warhammer miniatures
>>
Test
>>
>>5802221
the smaller the scale gets, the more abstract the game will be. so you can move your infantry around and you just assume that they would move like they would in RL despite the whole platoon being based on one base.
>>
>>5802221
God, I looked over the Custom again and now I'm dying for that rear spoiler and the bucket too, and those carbs look great...
>>
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>>5802060
I not find my figure, but i remember, that it's from this (number MCF35053)
http://masterclub.ru/models/index.php?SECTION_ID=92&SHOWALL_1=1

This is rubber boots , and later they will be tinted with pigments on the diorama .
Figures 1/100 - they have metal in the base, which is a magnet. I keep them on a magnet ( black square on which they are ). I have not played them yet , just make them the vecheles and terrain.
>>
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Armored infantry vechicle, like a bmp-2 and btr-80.
>>
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More terrain
>>
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All armored vechicles, that i have, at this moment (brdm at left has another tower now). Tank - t-72B, sample of.1989 (i don't know how say that at inglish, t-72b mod 1989, maybe)
>>
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Bus for my little guys, lol
>>
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>>5802076
I am not wargamer, yet. I don't like squad base.
I have not many soldiers (22 at this.moment, it's platoon). So it will skirmich, i think. But i want more, lol
[spoiler]"Ural" 1/100[ /spoiler]
>>
>>5802227
passed
>>
>>5802319
mod 89 is fine i guess

>>5802340
You should check out /hwg/ on /tg/. They have a large archive of rules for all sorts of wargames and scales.
>>
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Joke
>>
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>>5802352
It's hard for.me, chek english forums. Now i make.miniatures. i plane use "chain reaction". I hear it's so easy for noobs

Example of scales - 1/35, 1/72, 1/100
>>
>>5802373
Lurk more and your english will improve over time. School can learn you only so much, after thtas its just reading/using the language.

i like your miniaturs. You could check Flames of War, i think its also 1:100 scale
>>
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>>5802385
I have no practice so.long (4 years after university). Flames.of war is my muse (but very expansive muse, lol, so that i make conversions).

Civil people, without military conversion
>>
>>5802400
So you take these civilian miniatures and convert them to soldiers?
>>
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>>5800133
>>5800137
>>5800169
>>5800345
Tried again, less random this time, still wanted it to look a bit weathered.
The tools on the tank itself are going to be a bit darker though.
>>
>>5802758
I kind of liked it looking handmade. Almost like the crew had to fashion a new handle in-theater.

That one's nice too. Looks pretty factory.
>>
>>5802758
Looks good.
>>
>>5802758
The handle is ok. The actual metal part is amazing though
>>
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>>5802891
You want some more of that heavy metal, huh?
>>
What do you guys do if your aerosol cans of primer start leaking solvent from the seams and tip? I was thinking of decanting the contents to safely dispose the can.

Any other approaches? /m/'s gunpla thread has no useful suggestions.
>>
>>5803187
Woof. That's a huge safety hazard.

I think you're on the right track to decant and save what you can so you can depressurize and dump the can.
>>
>>5803187
Yep, decant into a empty paint bottle or similar. Do it in a well ventilated room and use a plastic bag and some funnel so most of it goes either to the bottle or the bag and not to your lungs. Then you can aibrush or brush With the decanted primer, although it's shelf live will be shorter
>>
>>5798891
Have you tried the Adhesion Promoter by Duplicolor?
>>
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>>5803206
>>5803248
Would putting it in a shaded, abandoned outdoor corner be fine before I can get a glass jar big enough to decant the whole thing?

It's a tall can of Duplicolor sandable primer.

I wonder how this happened. I don't remember banging or dropping the can, and I properly slide the plastic trigger in and out for all my cans.
>>
>>5803300
Put in in a plastic bag (with holes or loosely tied) somewhere like you said so if it goes off or leaks the mess is contained. Dunno abou how long can you keep it this way though.
>>
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>>5802546
Yep. For example: vanila miniature and elementary conersion - belt, ammobag (behind the back, can not see) and rifle.
>>
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Standart conversion - hemlet, ammo vest and rifle
>>
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Rifle- wire and foil
Vest - foil
>>
>>
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I don't think I'll be doing weathering this heavily again for my centurion, it's a huge pain in the ass and I'm all burnt out
>>
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Next 7 soldiers
>>
>>5801265
get a brush with a fine point, you have to get brush conditioner though to maintain it's sharp tip
>>
>>5803763
Looks great though. 1/72?
>>
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>>5804236
Probably 1/48th

>>5803763
Problem is, those tanks of the 7th Guards Army that took part in the assault on Berlin were never weathered to that degree. Pic related: the real life tank in Berlin
>>
>>5804722
>Probably 1/48th

They look more like 1/100 architectural figures to me (or possibly even 1/144) how massive are your hands if >>5803443 looks like someone holding a 1/48 scale figure?
>>
>>5804864
We were talking about that IS-2 tank
>>
>>5804236
1/35 actually, it's a tamiya kit
>>5804722
Yeah, I may have gone a little overboard with it
>Add rust, mud etc.
>Looks good, but it's not quite there yet
>Even more weathering
>It still doesn't look quite right
>MOAR
>Still nope
>Fuck it, go to bed
>Wake up next morning, realize weathering is way too heavy
>WellShit.jpg
>>
>>5804996
>1/35

Wow. it looks incredibly small on that pic.
>>
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>>5804996
I built that kit too
>>
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>>5802290
I know exactly what my btr80 needs...
>>5803480
>>5803443
>>5803461
That’s some real skill there, really
>>5802758
I like it more this way, how did you paint the wood and the metal?
>>5803763
>>5804996
I don’t wanna sound mean but you managed to make a 1:35 look like a 1:72 (and that’s not something people are after). How did you do the weathering? If done with oils and enamels there is hope to fix it easily with some love and white spirits, if they are acrylics then it gets more exciting to clear up.
Although pic >>5804722 is what they looked like (mostly) when the combat was intense (like near bridges or south-east of the city) ruble dust and bricks would get everywhere, mud was almost nonexistent (unless the unit rolled from the outskirts to the center). That’s how I would weather a russian tank in Berlin (just general dark grime and rubble dust). The german ones where much fucked up and pulled from surviving units into adhoc groups, which and gives more freedom to tell stories and weathering
>>
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>>5805098
Same here, I never finished it though and it's still, sitting on my shelf, collecting dust and waiting to be weathered...
>>
>>5805128
That figure is incredible.
>>
>>5805098
>>5803763
Nice.
I'm playing with the thought to buy the 1/48 version.
>>
>>5805128
>The german ones where much fucked up and pulled from surviving units into adhoc groups, which and gives more freedom to tell stories and weathering

German field maintenance units did a pretty good job right until the very end. I doubt there would be tanks covered in mud somewhere in Berlin. Cleaning a tank is part of keeping it running.
>>
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>>5804864
At another model forum says, that it's copy of german railway figures (i buy them at alibaba). So, you right

Last 7 guys. Tomorrow i will make their vehicles, machine-gunner, and one more squad commander (man without hemlet and with cap ) - i will have 3 squads (8 solders in one)
>>
>>5804881

I'm retarded.
>>
>>5805164
Based russian(?) anon passed this link (the figure is their stock photo not mine, just in case):
http://masterclub.ru/models/index.php?SECTION_ID=92&ELEMENT_ID=431
I’m looking for places to buy some, although I’m not sure if their gear is too modern for Afghanistan as they look more 90’s 00’s
>>5805173
Yes, well I didn’t meant they were "covered" in mud (except if they fought in the outskirts i guess) but the ones that were rushed in (while most fled to the west) to the city came in all shapes and conditions so it’s easier to get away with over weathering them, as long they look acceptable for oneself
>>
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>>5805128
>I know exactly what my btr80 needs...
Soldiers riding on armored vehicles aee looking cool.
grey soldiers - conversion too (change pose)
>>
>>5805139
>collecting dust
You mean natural weathering, right?
Also the crew figures in your image made me think of that image of the laughing US soldier wearing MOPP gear in a foxhole in the desert, but I'm fucked if I can find it
>>
>>5805139
Your tracks look really good m8
>>
>>5805128
About weathering. In memuares of soviet tankman, which fight in Berlin - sometimes tank was absolutely black (soot was everywhere)
>>
Why is modelling so much more popular in the uk?
>>
>>5805255
more popular than where? USA?

Its extremely popular in Germany too.
>>
>>5805231
What scale are those? im getting kinda jealous of your figure skills hahaha. I once tried to pose a german crewman of a tamiya tiger 1 and it ended a chaotic piece of plastic and putty. Nevermore
>>5805252
That’s really interesting; the dark grime that covered them in some pics must have been that
>>5805255
Uk specifically or "europe" in general you mean
>>
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>>5805202
>Russian(?)
you right.
Figures from link are really for chechnya (94-96, maybe 99-2000,).
Yellow figures.at my picture (in this post >>5805231 too)- soviet soldiers at the afganistan (ukraine firm - ICM, i dont remember catalog number), but they are not so cool, like masterclub (linked)
>>
>>5805272
these might be dragon soviet motorized infantry.
>>
>>5805278
Its icm,.but i am.not sure. Its can.be repac of dragon
>>
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>>5805255
They can't have real guns
>>
>>5805263
Yea.
>>
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>>5805277
pretty sure its this set.
>>
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>>5805272
They are 1/35.
So, about tamya german soldiers - can u guess, who is it? Right, it's grenader, from tamya kit (hanomag with crew).
>>
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>>5805288
Not
In my set are 4 soldiers, wich riding on btr-70 (yellow figures)
I convert only grey figures
%%Ak-74 with night vision is wrong, lol%%
>>
>>5805284
I'm not sure. It might be because of Airfix (and to a degree Games Workshop, the guys who make warhammer) are extremely popular in GB, and kids grow up building these kits.
If you built and played with these kits as a child the chance of coming back to that hobby as an adult is way bigger than suddenly deciding to built some planes or tanks at the age of 30+.

In Germany, every toy store has a (usually small) modeller section with revell kits. I probably played more with 1:72 soldiers and the tanks i built than i played with Lego or Playmobil.
>>
>>5805315
I'm from the UK and that's how i got back into this. I built Airfix kits a ton in my childhood and you can pick them up in a lot of toy stores and such here.
>>
>>5805561
Its still odd though because there are plastic kits in US stores too.
>>
Who makes the best 1/35 tank models? Most detailed? Do any make parts in metal?
>>
>>5805609
>Who makes the best 1/35 tank models? Most detailed?
i'd say meng models. but they expensive as fuck.

>Do any make parts in metal?
like photo etched parts? there's metric shiton of thrid party manufacturers doing them. tracks? friulmodel. there's also few companies making lathe turned aluminium barrels, but i don't see point in buying and using them
>>
>>5805609
Thats not a question to be answered easily.

Depending on what tank you want to build there might be different brands with better kits than the others.

There are kits with metal parts and there are tons of companies who make "aftermarket" products like metal gun barrels etc for lots of kits

Do you have a specific tank in mind?


>>5805632
>i'd say meng models. but they expensive as fuck.

Meng does great tanks, but their range is not that big, that might be an issue. They also are absolutely not recommended for beginners, so if he asks a question like this, Meng probably is a bad choice for him. But yeah, their kits are excellent.

For a beginner/average builder i would recommend Dragon. If the budget is tight, (older) Tamiya or Zvzeda, but it totally depends on the tank he wants to build.
>>
>>5805637
I was thinking about doing a T-10M or T-54 or M60 or Conqueror or M103 next.

haven't decided which yet.
>>
>top hull doesn't fit to the bottom and as a result there's a "hole" where the front glacis is supposed to connect

What do I do to fix this? Cover it with spare ERA?
>>
>>5805645

>scalemates.com

Check for the kits in your desired scale on that page and you'll see all related products for these tank names. There are also links to reviews of these kits so you can decide which one to pic.
>>
>>5805651
melt some of the plastic spruce tree your parts came on and carve it until it fits nicely, then glue it in and paint over it.
>>
>>5805660
>Melt

I don't have a furnace or the tools to do such a thing
>>
>>5805664
Do you own matches ? that's all you need. The plastic will melt under any flame really. Just be such the spruce tree you use isn't one with toxins in it.
>>
>>5805668
I mean I don't have any tools that can form melted plastic unless I want neat burns all over my fingers
>>
>>5805673
You don't have to melt it till its liquid, you know?
>>
>>5805673
You could also heat up a flat head screw driver and use it to flatten the piece then cut it to dimensions.
>>
>>5805653
>No 1/56
This makes me sad :(
>>
>>5805686
1/56 is an extremely niche scale. The only plastic kits available for it are made by Warlord/Italeri and Rubicon (and the 45mm AT gun set by PSC). They do only WW2 vehicles.

If you want to use your tanks for wargaming with 28mm minis, try 1/48. Number of kits/manufacturers is also limited, but you have a few more options. I'm afraid none of your mentioned tanks exists in those scales either.

There is a fantasy tank called IS-48 (Dust Warfare) that somewhat looks like an T10M, but thats about it.

Only option you have is resin kits, but even there you won't find many modern/cold war tanks.
>>
>>5805673
Son, are you gay or just retarded
>>
I'm taking a look at Scalemates for 1/35 T-72s. Does anyone have any opinions or recommendations?

Specifically I'm looking for a current/modern version
>>
>>5805845
I have built the Zvezda T-72 in the past and the kit was somewhat ok. It was cheap so i can't complain.
I had the Tamiya T-72 laying around for some time, but didn't built it. I gave it away to a friend. From what i saw the detail was way better than on the Zvezda kit.

Both were rather early versions i think (i'm no expert here) but i'm pretty sure there are aftermarket sets with ERA and all these things to make the tanks look more modern
>>
>>5805874
Yeah, I've held the Tamiya box in my hands and it's a pretty early revision of it.

Maybe I should be looking for T-80s or T-90s instead, since those are just rebranded, modernized T-72s
>>
>>5805845
I just finished a Zvezda T-72 and it was a bit of a pain, but it's good for the price.

As always, Tamiya offers much better detail, but they only have the T-72M1 AFAIK.

>>5805911
>T-80s or T-90s instead, since those are just rebranded, modernized T-72s
>T-80s
Nice meme
>>
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Does anyone have experience with oil paints? I need to get a decent set as the cheapo oils are no fucking good for dot fading.
I've been thinking about pic related, are they any good or should I get actual artist's oils?


>>5805128
Wood was painted with a light brown, added grain with thinned dark brown, applied several very thin layers of red brown, leather brown, etc. to get depth.
Metal part was painted black, rubbed with graphite dust, drybrushed with steel color.
>>
>>5805845
I’m going to say trumpeter as their kv-1, t-54 and my current build of the btr80 are really good for the price and detailed. Also you have a ton of options for the t-72 in their catalog. I also have to say you may encounter some “exotic” for lack of a softer word engineering decisions in some pieces, nothing that some putty and sanding can’t get you through. What conflict or country are you interested in?
Btw the t-90 tagil (poo in the loo armed forces) is a sexy beast unworthy of that army (you can always do a “what if” which is more fun), check the trumpeter and the tiger model one (pic related. Lovely detail, better PE and metal smoke dischargers, but pricier also)
>>5805965
I’m going to try and make some of the wood of the tools more “beaten” from the sun and others newish (never paid much attention to the tools as usually get dirty in the weathering phase, but they add a nice punch of color and contrast) and your mace looked perfect for what I’m planning.
As for the oils I mainly use Van Gogh (royal talens brand dunno if it’s a cheap or premium one) as my gf has a box full of them and work pretty good. Never tried abteilung 502 but if you can get “normal/artist” oils its more than enough I think without having to pay modelers extra, I guess all is down to how much you want to spend or if you wanna try these 502 with artist ones and see (and report back hahahaha).
>>
>>5805999
I like late cold war period T-72s, but I also like the whole new slew of modernizations that former client states and Russia are doing to keep their T-72 fleets combat ready.
>>
>>5806010
What is your building level and painting? (More or less, just to know what to recommend without biting too much and throwing your money away)
>>
>>5805694
I wasn't the guy who the link was intended for, but yeah, 1/56 is niche. I've made a few resin kits for the scale, but they're often poorly cast and a nightmare to work with. Rubicon have some of the best plastics I've seen for 1/56, bar their tracks - as a Soviet tank enthusiast, their tracks are FUCKING AWFUL. Other than that? Spot on.

I sometimes wish I'd gone for 1/48, but as I use them for wargaming (bolt action), 1/56 is a better fit, really.

Times like this, I wish there was a 1/35 scale tank warfare game...
>>
>>5806013
I feel very confident about straight building. I've got a 1/32 Tamiya F-14A and my Tamiya 1/12 240Z to build and I don't feel intimidated about building, most of my thoughts are about how and where to add details and how best to paint. I would rate my skill at scratch building at "none."

I've got my air brush and compressor although I don't really have a space set up to paint.
>>
>>5806058
So you are datsun anon, have you done anything more on the motor? if I were you I would be cheeky and ask Tamiya for replacement parts for the rims and the mikuni carbs.
As for the t-72 i would recommend trumpeter's t-72b for pure soviet sexiness (it’s the one with the "dolly parton" turret, no era) as the tamiya one is old and their turret front is wrong, the rest its quite good though. Trumpeter’s t-72 b/b1 (kontak 1 era) for a more modern Russian look (80s onwards until the b3 which carries newer era/things). Or wait for trumpeter or tiger model to release their t-90 ms tagil (there is a "old version" pic >>5805999 is the "2013" version). All are about 55€, except Tamiya which is like 20€ in my lhs and similarly priced elsewhere I think, so a bit on the pricier side but justified, there is also zvezda but never done anything theirs and can’t give my opinion on their kits and how they compare.
>>
>>5806081
>ask Tamiya for replacement parts for the rims and the mikuni carbs.

They actually did short me on some parts. There's supposed to be some included vinyl tubing that's used for the electrics and plumbing that I did not receive. I need to write in and try to get what I need. I don't want to drag it too far off, but are there any resources for finding 1/12 accessories? I don't super care for the Watanabes, but also finding more scale headers would be cool.

They were very thoughtful and included for me a manual in Japanese, though, just in case I didn't speak English.

>Trumpeter’s t-72 b/b1
I saw that on scalemates. The Kontakt looks pretty nice but I was hoping for something more recent than a B/B1. There's a Meng T-72B3 which is looking pretty interesting too. And, from the sounds of it, would be nicely detailed.
>>
Is there any brand that does super detailed inside of tanks?

WWII preferred
>>
>>5806081
I forgot to actually answer your question: No I have not. It's been stupid fucking hot here in the near-desert and I don't give a shit about doing anything other than listening to music, sucking down water, and maybe video games.

It's really hard to care and be focused in the heat.
>>
>>5806190
I can’t really help you with aftermarket for civilian cars, but maybe in scalemates there are some accessories listed or some shop that carries more civilian oriented models can be more useful.
>Meng T-72B3
Really nice kit, but if were to choose a modern t-72 iteration (both domestic and export) I would buy the tiger model tagil without giving it a second though and paint it with SAA colors for fun and fucking around (fuck that isis scum).
>>5806198
>Is there any brand that does super detail inside of tanks?
Why this question repeats every now and then...
"Yes" verlinden for hollow hulls and miniart or takom for some full kits, there ya go
>>
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>want to do tortoise tank model
>Meng is only one that makes them
>$155 on amazon
>>
>>5806268
>americans
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MENG-MODEL-TS-002-A39-TORTOISE-BRITSH-HEAVY-ASSAULT-TANK-1-35-SCALE-NISB-/272014627210
>>
>>5806303
>$65 total
that's like an entire days of work
>>
>>5806307
Its a "rare" afv, be thankfull its not a resin kit of hundreds of dollars.
>>
>>5806312
We're not talking in pesos paco, calm down.
>>
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I'm completely done painting the Indianapolis. I may go back and do some additional weathering with some oil paints, but I'm most likely done with it. I think I need to add more rust to the anchor / its area in general, as well as dirty up the bottom of the hull a bit more somehow. Going to be hard to do though because I already used an enamel flat varnish over everything.

I also have to finish painting the seaplane and weather it as well, I've put it off until the very end because I really don't like the way it looks.

Just need to find some good reference photos of the rigging. I've been using a build by some Russian guy on a Russian website as a reference but his photographs are too small to see the rigging completely.
>>
>>5806363
Beautiful
>>
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>>5806363
Do you just sit these in a pond when you're done and let them float around :3?
>>
>>5806312
I work as a construction working and after taxes it's pretty shit per day
>>
Holy fuck, this thread is already at 317 posts.

This is the fastest I've ever seen one of these threads move, usually they last almost a month, if not more.
>>
>>5806408
67 unique posting IDs recorded. It's kind of busy.
>>
I checked out a conversion chart and I can't find any matches for Tamiya's NATO colours (XF-67, 68, and 69) that are suggested for it's Abrams kit. Are there any other alternatives in this regard? I mostly work with Humbrols.
>>
>>5805128
>I don’t wanna sound mean but you managed to make a 1:35 look like a 1:72
What do you mean by that? That it doesn't look as detailed as a 1/35 should because of the overly heavy/imprecise weathering?
I used Mr color for the bulk of the weathering so fixing that's going to be a bit of work.
>>
>>5806791
It looks fine anon, the only thing I would change is to tone down the yellowing over the white invasion markings, aside from that it looks really good, don't know what these guys are talking about.

Anyways, we need a new thread, this one will die soon.
>>
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>been buying tamiya models of tanks I like
>Some have lots of parts others alot less and parts are either missing or molded on already
>the premolded parts are sorta half assed, some don't even match
>lots of times missing parts make the tank look sorta weird (ie: missing manlet is the biggest)

I know these are mostly old models but I wish they'd update their process to include more stuff or atleast get it right at the factory.
>>
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>>5807007
>complaining about old kits being old
>>
>>5806021
>1/56 is a better fit, really.

Its not, really. But thats a matter of preference.
>>
>>5807007
Just check reviews before you buy a kit. Everything you described is a non-issue if you had done this.
>>
>>5807076
It is for the existing vehicles I have, and mixing scales is something only morally questionable folk do
>>
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>>5807128
true. I wouldn't want to change the scale if my collection were already kinda large.

But i figured that matching scales isn't that big of a deal if you use small vehicles in the smaller scale.
Due to how scales are calculated the size difference between a jeep in 1/56 and 1/48 is way smaller than the size difference between lets say a king tiger. So if its smaller vehicles you can get away with 1/56 if there is no 1/48 alterntive. I use a BT-7 in 1/56 from warlord for example which has no 1/48 counterpart. While its smaller than my 1/48 T-34, nobody will put out a ruler during a game and tell me "Hey, that BT tank is 2 cm to short". Its smaller in RL, and its smaller on the table, and the exact size won't matter since the crew members are nearly the same for each tank anyway. Pic related.

If i were to field a sdkfz 251 in 1/48 next to one in 1/56 than this would be an entirely different story though.

But enough of this oot.
>>
>>5807158
I have 9 tanks in 1/56 scale; granted, I'm trying to get rid of the three Shermans as the 76 turrets I ordered to replace the 75s are goddamn awful and I'm not even willing to patch them up and paint them as lend-lease. For wargaming I only tend to use one tank at a time, so I could technically make the jump to 1/48, but if I was to display the minis or use more than one at once, I'd have a weird looking scale difference.
>>
>>5807167
If you ever start a new army you could change the scale without bigger problems.
>>
New Thread.

>>5807491
>>5807491
>>5807491
>>
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wip, armored rotational bus from zis-5
>>
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Hey there /toy/ this is the first time I've ever come to this board and I need some help
I bought pic related and its just dawned on me that I have bought quite a complex kit considering my only real experience with models is airfix from a number of years ago and warhammer which is a joke compared to this
Have you guys got any advice? has anybody done this kit?
[spoiler]I also bought a 32 pounder to attach which I know is a wargaming meme but fuck it it looks much better than the shitty 3 inch AA[/spoiler]
Thread posts: 334
Thread images: 94


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