Scale Model General Thread

Any garage kit sculpters here? Looking for sci-fi.

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Recently, I've finished building Tamiya's M1A2 Abrams and I plan on painting it in NATO tricolor. However, the paints that the kit recommends for this are all seemingly unique, XF-67 "NATO Green", XF-68 "NATO Brown", and XF-69 "NATO Black" have no comparable paints on the big conversion chart. What are good substitutes for these?

>>5807521
Conversions to what?

>>5807521
Just use those colors? They're not exactly hard to come by, and they are accurate.

I guess you could mix some XF-63 and XF-1 to get Nato Black, the other colors though I don't know. I really like Nato Black as a color though, it's more of a really dark black / gray and I use it all the time for various things.

>>5807530
I mostly use Humbrol enamels.

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The btr is almost done, just some work on the turret and rails on the hull left
>>5807546
Are testors enamel ok?
They have nato green (2173), nato brown (2174) and "gelboliv" black (2175) although a greish matt black would work

>>5807554
Testors enamels are shit

>>5807566
k.
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=16193&page=1
Then pick one yourself:
http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/paints/enamel-paints/colour/black-brown-green.html?
Tamiya decided also to fuck you in the ass and just skipped xf67/8/9 in their enamels.
So either find one yourself in humbrol, use testors (never tried them but a lot of people do in magazines and online builds, why are they shit?) or stop being a little bitch and just use acrylics for this

>>5807587
That guy isn't me

>>5807566
Testors, the regular ones in the little tiny jars, yes are shit.

Model Master enamels are fine though, I've used them for years and have no issues with them, aside from the paint drying out because the seals in the bottle are shit.

>>5807599
All metal seal bottles are shit m8. Plastic caps are made slightly undersized and use the flexibility of the material to create a tighter seal. You can't really do that with metal and if you tried it'd permanently warp out of shape right away.

>>5807599
>>5807603
Intersting, but the ones I mentioned in >>5807554
are from testor "model master" brand so they should be fine right?
http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/international-military-and-figure/modern-armor-gulf-war-nato-russia
Also I thought the quality of their medium or the pigments were to blame for considering a paint "shit", if its the bottle only I would buy some empty jars from vajello/amig/ak (not sure how their plastic would react with enamel paint) or tamiya and fill them up

>>5807603
The vast majority of my model master bottles, some years old, are fine.

The problem is that they use these cardboard paper seals, with a glossy top which can easily peel off over time, and once it does the jar cannot completely seal and air can enter through the rim.

>>5807546
You shouldn't be brushing with enamels

>>5807643
Brush painting? Enamels are fantastic for brush painting as well as airbrushing. Have you ever used them? The longer cure / dry time allows them to settle much better than most acrylics, and they are easier to thin.

Most people avoid using enamels because of the smell / toxicity, as well as the longer dry / cure time.

>>5807651
They're fantastic for getting lung cancer.

>>5807599
Is the problem with the bottle entirely, or is the paint quality itself shit?

>>5807691
Are you retarded? If that were true traditional artists wouldn't live past their 50s but there are tons of old dudes still painting. Enamels are primarily dangerous when aerosolized, otherwise you just want to paint in a well ventilated room, though in the timespan you'll be working with them on a model kit it's barely even a concern.

>>5807521
117, 33, and 42.

Trying PE for the first time, what type of glue do you guys recommend?
Any other tips for using PE?

>>5807730
Cyanoacrylate (krazy) glue

I like to finger paint my models. I start by coating my fingers with a layer of Flat Black and let it dry for 2 hours then i start the fun

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U have 300 posts for limit?
Wip, armored rotational.bus from zis-5

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Did some streaking.
I'm gonna get some quality oil paints tomorrow to further improve the effects.

>>5807764
I think you actually get a more realistic finish that way.

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Inspired by the tiny detail work or Russian anon I decided to do some wiring for the lights (although it can be really compared it's something)
>>5807774
That's a doable scratch work and detailing In such a small scale
>>5807781
The fender hinge is PE or plastic? Also which oils are you getting? I also forgot to mention Windsor and Newton oils, which some regard as the best of the best. But here I can't find them anywhere so I stick to what I have

>>5807813
Fucking 4chan turns images however the fuck he wants. The gun searchlight is quite dirty with cyano as you can see in the pic but easy to clean, my problem is that I don’t know where the cable goes as I can’t find any ref pic nor the turret has some connector or hole

>>5807813
the light cable on that Bosch light I have snapped off at least three times. Just like the antenna...
The whole fender's PE. I've done it back when I still sucked at bending and gluing, I have since improved.
I think I'm getting Schmincke oils as I already have some and they're good.
But if I can find W&N at a fair price, I'll probably buy some.

>>5807781
That bullet hole looks fantastic

>>5807844
Snapping details while working is a pita and one of the reasons any of my afvs have antennas...
The Van Gogh she told me that are "cheap" but good, and almost the same as Windsor basics (4-5€~ both brands 60ml). But the Windsor "artist" series are on another tier (and another price bracket like 8€ the small one). But from my experience the Van Gogh are good enough in case you can't find Windsor or if you wanna try something new
As for the fender it's glued or soldered? I'm thinking of buyin a full PE set for the panther reconstruction but in some parts I don't see clearly of they are supposed to hold together cleanly without soldering, which is a hassle on top of the PE hassle that I'm not going to accept

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>>5807884
Thanks for the advice, will look what I can get.
the fender is exclusively glued because I suck at soldering. There are good tutorials tho.
There are also some connector parts for PE, see pic.

Which scribing knives do you suggest if I want to scribe two different line thicknesses? (something like 0.1 and 0.5ish)

Also, I've tried a compass needle and dental picks, but they leave jagged , gouged lines that taper sharply at the ends. X-acto or excel's flat, hook-shaped scriber heads aren't doing it for me either.

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Done with the PE and cables, tomorrow ill start the priming
>>5807956
That might be a good alternative to soldering
>>5808088
I've never done something like that as is a technique more related to aircrafts, if i where to do it I would buy some templates similar to this:
http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Military_Models_135/Accessories/PE/Metal_parts/Voyager/Voyager_Scribing_Template_Set_9_i63_43119_0.htm
Or Eduard ones for example to make straight shapes.
Tamiya scribing knife, may be expensive but it will do what you need:
http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Tools_/_Brushes_/_Glue/Tools/Plastic_Scriber_II_i239_17686_0.htm
There is also trumpeter alternative or research one yourself (search airplane modeling forums, britmodeller is a good start or just type scribing tutorial and follow from that). Check what they recommend or what they use to archive what you want before buying.

>>5808136
The X-Acto/Excel scriber blades are in the same shape as the Tamiya.

I wonder what I'm doing wrong. Maybe I need to double down on using stencils?

>>5808152
I can't really say, stencils help to apply more force in a controlled way allowing deeper and maybe cleaner cuts.

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>decide to paint tank body a dark green tamiya
>start to put it on
>it's super watery
>can basically see right through it in blotches
>fug
>put on the rest anyway
>hoping when i do a second coat it covers it up and makes it nicer

pls don't tell me i fucked up

>>5808370
when you do a second coat there will be obvious "depressions" or craters in areas where the paint failed to cover


prime your shit next time

>>5808383
prime with what? I'm not good at this painting stuff

>>5808370
Paint should never be "watery," what are you thinning your paint with? Use Tamiya's X-20A or their lacquer thinner next time. In general for Tamiya paints a paint to thinner ratio is 1:1 for best results, thinner if you want to spray lighter coats and build things up very slowly.

>>5808370
Sounds like you needed to prime

>>5807554

Man, how do you reliably deal with photo etch?

It's ruined everything I attempted so far.

>>5808452
Get proper tools, use proper CA glue, like gel and extra thinned glue. Get long, narrow glue applicators to make application easier. Get a set of high-quality bending tweezers, and a photo etch hold and fold tool, as well as a roller set for making curved pieces.

Get a bunch of flat scraping blades to help fold as well as cut the etch from its sprue. I use ones I get from lowes in packs of 100 for like $5.00. Cut out pieces from the fret on a flat, hard surface that a blade won't dig into, such as glass. This prevents the pieces from getting damaged and bend as you cut them out.

Just fucked up a $80 Meng kit

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>>5807813
I dont understand, what you mean, lol

Body, barrel for somethink (water, maybe), and stair

>>5809171
What did you do? pics?

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To the Indianapolis anon if you still here, in the ak book "Modelling Full Ahead 2: New Orleans Class" there is some images of rigging. Although the Indianapolis was another class it’s related to the books class (according to Wikipedia at least) in case you needed some more refs
>>5809259
What i meant is that your work is very detailed and well done. I like how the armored truck looks, like a command post or something like that

>>5809433
that's a big lighter.

how the fuck did he do the railings, what is that 1:1200 ?

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>>5809499
Its 1:700, as always watching work people like mig or wilder (I don’t know who did these but he/they are really good) makes one go "what the fuck, how can that look so easy and yet mine is a mess". Here's another page were he talks about PE. The book is a bit expensive (18 €) but if ships are your thing it’s a really nice ref material for techniques and builds.

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Ready for priming

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>>5808452
Although what >>5808547 said is the proper list I have a pretty ghetto setup pic related. I use the old exacto knives to cut and as a CA applier which is a bit messy sometimes. What I really need to buy are plying tweezers or whatever they are called (those without "teeth" and straight angles) and perhaps a small PE bending tool (expesive as fuck but they may be worth it in the long run). As for techniques just cut clean on top of an old CD or a fancy hard surface, sand carefully with the help of the pliers so you don't bend it and use CA glue with some aplying tool like PE scrap or an old blade

>>5809531
I'm surprised you've put the glass components in already. Are they masked off?

>>5809544
Yes, with vajello masking fluid (similar to humbrol maskol) so it’s peeled off easily after painting it. The main downside is cleaning the brushes of the rubbery latex balls that forms on the hairs, applying it with a toothpick is cleaner but less precise but might be the best option for preserving brushes

>>5809551
Eurgh, tell me about it. Vallejo's masking fluid isn't so fluid. It's even worse when it gets stuck in nooks and crannies on small minis, with paint already applied - You risk damaging the underlying paint when removing it.
I tend to just use blue-tak now.

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>>5809537
These are the tools I use for photo etch

>>5809658
Blu tack leaves residue. Use silly putty. Its mostly superior except it spreads out over time

>>5809433
>>5809499
Thanks, not sure if it will help, but still...

I wish AK made a comprehensive book on how to weather ships, I really need up up my weathering game.

>>5809433
>>5809521
Also every single time I see someone's work like this I'm just floored, I need to learn the techniques the pros like this use, the work is just amazing... especially for 1/700.

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>>5809537
>nigger rigging this hard

Would you guys be interested in things outside of tanks? I've just ordered 2 of the Revell Dinosaur kits so I can make a Godzilla style monster out of them. I've always wanted to make a camp rubber suit Kaiju model kit and this is the best I'm getting as no one produces them outside of insanely expensive resin kits.

Just want to know if it would be worth my time posting it here.

>>5809942
Of course, anything outside of Gunpla / plamo / mecha stuff is acceptable in this thread. There have been a few people that have made figures / statues, etc. in the past posting in these threads.

>>5809942
Sure, why not. Sharing techniques, build reviews, (constructive) critique and keeping things interesting is always good, even if they are not form "traditional" fields

>>5809966
Plamo is a term that covers all plastic model kits, so you just said nothing is welcome here ;)

I am more of a Gunpla guy but I find those threads are full of people just wanting to stock build, which isn't bad but it's not where I am looking to take my hobby, so I wanted to ask you guys since you're heading in the same direction.

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In the end I’ve only painted a shovel and the KPVT barrel and the coaxial mg, no priming, fucking nothing. All the rest of the afternoon spent reading some issues the weathering magazines.
If I ever get back to making planes I know what I’m doing first...
>>5809894
They seem to be following a class ship approach like a hybrid between a naval magazine and a SBS ship book, I suppose if they gain traction more naval related stuff will follow. Although (I might be wrong) most of the techniques used in the two books can be applied to any ship kinda like afv “”””specific”””” techniques
>>5809907
We all gonna make it brah, just keep training and never skip thin your paint days
>>5809916
I really need to buy something like >>5809667… but in the mean time its nigger time as I don’t feel like paying 20€ for some tweezers and 30+ for the PE bending block

I've been on /toy/ for so long and I want to get into scale models mainly military. Does anyone have a guide for Newfags like me. Also is there a guide to these on a budget so I can continue spending on other toys too?

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>>5809433
Ok.

Progress - machinegun and antenna (truck is really like as a improvised command post )

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>>5809942
>Would you guys be interested in things outside of tanks?

>>5810072
Budget is simple in scale modeling.

Step 1 : Buy cheap kits
Step 2 : Learn advanced weathering techniques that take hours to work effectively
Step 3 : Spend $20 for 20+ hours hobby time.

>>5810072
There is not really a "beginners guide", but what >>5810087 said, start with cheap kits and try different techniques.

Budget comes only into play if you buy everything (tools, paint, weathering stuff etc) at once.
Start small and get things one by one and you wont spend much.

>mainly military

What exactly? Tanks? Anything in particular you have in mind? We surely can recommend you some good starter kits if you tell us what you want to build.

>>5810107
The Gunpla thread has some basic tutorial stuff. It's applicable to military modeling.

>>5809942
Hellz yeah

>>5810146
Interesting, i'll have a look

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Why do people like to make their tanks look rusted and shit?

>>5810213
Why not? It depends on the vehicle. WWII tanks saw a lot of action and many weren't able to be maintained in the field, and thus rusting.

Some people do go over-board with it, but that's artistic license. Some people can make amazingly-weathered tanks and aircraft that really show off their skills.

No one forces you to weather your stuff to an extreme anyways, it's all the preference of the builder.

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One night project finished for today. I might go and weather them tomorrow but then it wouldn't be a one night project

>>5810213
Because it adds realistism and it's fun to achieve the effect.

Thinking about a tamiya ww1 heavy male tank for my next build. Never done a tank before.

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>>5810225
>>5810213
Honestly I think it's more because a subject which is perfectly new actually looks really fucking boring. Everyone gets to that point on pretty much every build (as soon as the base coat is done) and it's pretty underwhelming.

>>5810218
>WWII tanks saw a lot of action and many weren't able to be maintained in the field, and thus rusting.

Thats not really true actually. A tank won't rust that fast, and maintenance was necessary to keep it running, so rust wasn't that common as it is in modeling. It looks nice and its a matter of personal preference.
Personally i dislike to much mud like some people put on their tank, but again just a matter of opinion.
>>5810237
In the past, nobody weathered their tanks to a degree like it is done today. People were actually looking down on "the spanish method" but these days the spaniards are the trendsetters and everyone follows.

>>5810237
Your pic just reminded me:
Did I miss something or is that VK 30.02 finished as of yet?

>>5810237
I don't know about any one else but I also like weathering because building something perfect takes way too much effort. Every little ding needs to be filled then sanded, then refilled and sanded if it didn't turn out quite right.

By the time I get to painting I've already been annoyed with multiple small things that just aren't worth the effort to fix but would ruin a perfectly new looking model. At such even when I intend to do something brand new, it always ends up being weathered in the end.

>>5810223
that's cool as shit. I need to find something I can do that to now!

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>>5810250
I need some more weathering but I'm just waiting for a good time to go to the hobby store and get some powders

>>5810250
Also, I no longer have the nice camera so all my photos will be potato till I can get a replacement.

>>5810276
It's easier on the Custom One Pro's because the separable parts.

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Hey there /toy/ this is the first time I've ever come to this board and I need some help
I bought pic related and its just dawned on me that I have bought quite a complex kit considering my only real experience with models is airfix from a number of years ago and warhammer which is a joke compared to this
Have you guys got any advice? has anybody done this kit?
[spoiler]I also bought a 32 pounder to attach which I know is a wargaming meme but fuck it it looks much better than the shitty 3 inch AA[/spoiler]

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>>5810319
>historical accuracy
>shitty
>World of Shit

>>5810330
The model itself is a copy of the WoT model anyway, the actual Churchill GC never had the armour at the front over the tracks

>>5810338
I find it hillarious and awesome at the same time that a f2p game cased so many kits to be made from all kinds of companies.

I can only imagine how many people who never came in contact with modelling started that hobby (or generally their interest into tanks) just because of this pc game.

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>>5810338
>actual Churchill GC never had the armour at the front over the tracks

>>5810319
In short: Just like an airfix kit, just with more/smaller parts.

Just go ahead the instructions. Ask if a certain step causes you trouble.

>>5810319
to answer your question:
AFV club usually have poorer tolerances when it comes to their moulding process, so the kit is extra hard for a new comer as a result.

My tip; go out and buy all the tools before you start your first big kit. It's natural to know what putty is for if you have it on your desk and a gap comes up. Also, practice on some cheaper kits before you embark on that big of a project

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>>5810338
>WG history

>>5810348
Oh right I realise, you're retarded and I should have ignored you from the beginning

>>5810365
You're flat out wrong

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>>5810363
>WG history

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>>5810365
>sheet metal is armor

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>>5810371

>>5810371
>never had
>proofs of fenders
Ur wrong lol

>>5810372
>Nothing is better armour then something

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>>5810379
>sheet metal is armor

>>5810379
The tracks behind it have probably better stopping power than that fender

>>5810351
>>5810356
OK so what paints do people recommend these days? Actually how do I go about the painting?
Should I paint some things before glueing them or do I just git gud?

>>5810385
Don't sell the skin before you got the bear, Anon.

Painting before assembling depends alot on the kit. Lots of people paint tracks and wheels seperate from the hull and assemble these parts last.

I recommend vallejo paints, others in here seem to like tamiya.
Do you have an airbrush?

>>5810385
>asking stupid questions
Why do people buy expensive shit and don't know how to build it?

>>5810384
I don't know about you but I would rather not have a HE shell hit my tracks pham

>>5810385
If you want a gun carrier it's basically the only company that makes it

>>5810392
they can still hit the lower part of it tho, and the sides.

>>5810391
because everyone has to start at some point. how about giving him advise instead of behaving like an ass?

>>5810391
I thought I did know how to build it, it's a lot more complex than I though it was going to be

>>5810392
>WoT is real life
How old are you?

>>5810399
>spoonfeeding retards who act like they know shit

>>5810330
>>5810338
>>5810347
>>5810348
>>5810363
>>5810365
>>5810368
>>5810371
>>5810372
>>5810375
>>5810376
>>5810379
>>5810383
>>5810384
What the fuck are you jabronies arguing about

>>5810404
>HE shells don't work in real life and are a complete fabrication of Wargaming
I mean I know they've made a load of shit up but I'm fairly certain HE shells actually existed

>>5810389
Yeh I do, thanks for the advice I can probably google the rest

>>5810412
If a HE shell hit the fender it would most certainly fuck up the track

>>5810421
Still not as badly as if it just straight up fucking hit the track though

>>5810418
There are some guides in the OP which are pretty comprehensive, if a little overwhelming

>>5810426
Yes but as a designer, it doesnt matter if there is armour there to stop the impact or not because, regardless, the tracks will be incapacitated anyway. The fenders were there to stop smaller calibre weapons, explosives and anti-tank grenades from fucking up the tracks, not full blown HE shells from other tanks, guns or artillery.

>>5810435
*engineer

my bad

>>5810437
Not going to lie I had to remind myself why we we're arguing but surely if they were made to stop anything they could be described as armour?

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>>5810441
>stop anything
Yeah, mud

Well since I seemed to really derail this thread for you guys I'll try and get it back on track, how do you guys display your models? Cabinets? Shelves?
And how do you keep them free from dust?

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>>5810456
>old soviet display case
>dust
>DUST

>>5810461
Dust?

http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&cat=news
Does anyone here have experience with this company?

>>5810492
Yes. Excellent barrels for a low price.

>>5810507
What was the shipping time and where do you live?

>>5810515
Not him, but here (Germany) they are sold by different online stockists so you don't have to order from RB directly. Maybe thats the case at your place too.

>>5810515
I didn't buy directly from them. I bought from Polish online shops and at my LHS.

>>5810526
>le virgin meme
Stay cucked, fgt

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I hate decals. Saying that these HB are performing pretty well and taking the micro set/sol brilliantly.

I'm just not sure I can face the false window frame decals for the nose yet. But, I've started so I'll finish.

>>5810520
>>5810522
I bought directly from them, should I have not done that?

>>5810526
Nice meme. I'm not the one paying to hide myself in a cupboard so my "girlfriend" doesn't feel ashamed that her friends know she's dating a man child.

>>5810532
I never bought directly from them. I have no idea, but i don't see a reason not to do that if shipping rates are ok.

I usually try to order more than one thing at once from Sockelshop.de so i get free shipping when i go over 50€ so yeah.. i kinda hate the idea to pay 4€ for shipping for a barrel thats just 4€ too.

>>5810532
Well, if you had looked at their site it says they're on brake until August 1st. Have fun waiting for your order :^)

>>5810535
>she's dating

if you live together its hardly dating.
besides
>her friends

she is a introverted autist just like myself, why else would i actually be together with her. She is into warhammer stuff and her very few friends are too.

>>5810535
Its how good and healthy relationships work Anon.
We pay exactly 50% of the rent and she pays the internet bill and in exchange i pay for the bigger one of our cars (which she never uses anyway because she is scared of parking with it lel).

>>5810539
I did see that and I don't really mind, I'm not doing anything for the next 4-6 weeks

>>5810546
>I pay more into the house than she does but I have to shut myself away in my "man cave".

>Cucked McCuckedson
Does she tell you to put your toys away before her boyfriend comes round?

>>5810541
I don't think I've ever met a girl into warhammer and I was in the hobby for 3-4 years

>>5810551
>t 16 yo virgin

>>5810555
>v-virgin
Were not the ones getting told by a woman lmao

>>5810551
Why should you put the toys away if they are already in the mancave? Are you dense? Having a "mancave" is the best thing ever. Do you want to have to worry about breaking precious things when you are drinking with your friends in your living room all the time?
I also have a room for tools/car stuff next to the garage. I bet you find an explanation why this makes me a cuck as well. Must be a cozy living room you have if you keep your oil and all the other tools right next to your couch.

>>5810562
>I don't understand how being told to go to my bedroom to do what I enjoy is considered being a cuck

Why is it so hard to find a 1/35 Crusader Mk III for a reasonable price?

>>5810597
Because it's an old rare kit and nobody makes a new Crusader.

>>5810597
>>5810600
didn't italeri re-release it a while ago? i remember buying it and the box seemed to be pretty new, but the kit itself was bad so i gave it away

>>5810600
I wish I was less autistic and could settle for the 1/32 Airfix kit.

Holy shit this thread is garbage. Idk where this extra traffic came from but it sucks

so we all know Meng models are top tier.

But is it safe to say that Dragon and Takom models are better than Tamiya yet?

>>5812110
I wouldn't say that. Tamiya still makes some of the best kits on the market. They don't over-complicate things like Dragon or Meng do, their parts breakdown is small and simple, look at their recent F-14 kit for example compared to the other F-14s that are coming out. Meng makes some good kits, I've build about 3 of them, but they weren't that spectacular or anything. I like how they include workable tracks though, wish more companies would do the same.

Tamiya has by far the best engineering and the best and most crisp details, even if their kits aren't the most super-detailed on the market, they are easy to build and have perfect fit, meaning you won't be struggling to putty stuff and whatnot. I've also noticed in general they have the best quality of plastic, I'm not sure what makes theirs different from other companies, but it just cuts a lot easier and is a lot smoother I guess.

Dragon's quality has declined a lot in recent years. They haven't even released anything all that interesting, especially in their AFV department where every new vehicle is just a rehash of something they've already done, or a specific variant that only 2 prototypes were built or some shit.

Takom I can't speak for since I've never built any of their kits, but I've heard a lot of good things about them.

So I use Tamiya extra thin cement and on my last model I decided to paint the stuff first because it just looked like a nightmare if i let it go.

But now when I go to cement it on my cement bush is basically pulling some of the paint onto itself and I can't seem to get it all off. Also my cement brush that comes with ti is fraying a bit it seems rather than being a nice point.

Is there anyway to fix this or is it fine? I know the cement brushes appear to be removal, can i just buy replacement?

>>5812182
You don't paint before you glue things together... that's like rule # 1 of building models.

Extra thin is a solvent, it can and will eat through your paint and your plastic. Also, painted plastic will not glue together unless you clean off the seams where the glue goes.

Get some straight acetone to clean off the brush.

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>>5812197
How do i guys paint tiny little things without screwing up other areas painted differently?

>>5812224
Small paint brushes? Post some pictures about what you're trying to paint.

>>5812250
>>5812224
Also I should mention you can use CA glue (super glue) to glue painted parts onto other painted parts if you have no other choice. Just avoid using glue that can dissolve paint and you should be fine.

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>>5812250
It's not exactly this model, but pretty similar. I figured I'd paint my hull first and then paint the little tools separately since otherwise it seems like i'd most likely fuck up my hull paint or vise versa.

I'm not too worried about the paint coming off since it's mostly on the backside of items and so far any visible issue can be easily touched up, i was just more worried about my tamiya cement brush desu.

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>1/12 scale Tiger announced for 2017 release

HELP

>>5812780
>$1000

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>>5812780
>buying a fuckhuge Tiger to display your shitty anime figures with

>>5812780
There's already plenty of 1/16 scale kits out there. There's a decent Tamiya Tiger I kit that can be an RC kit, then there's a Hobby Boss kit. Trumpeter also has a bunch of 1/16 vehicles, some with full interiors. 1/12 isn't even that much larger, don't really see the point.

>>5812911
The figures in the picture are 1/12.

>>5810531
So smooth, so shiny.

How do i superglue tiny bits of PE

it sticks to fucking everything; fingers, tweezers EVERYTHING AAAAAAAA

>>5812288
Use a small brush, do it slowly, take care around the edges where different colors meet, and take small breaks if needed.

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>>5812962
my hand shakes too much to do it precisely on top of something else. Anytime I try to do something small and precise my hands just shake and it's really hard.

>>5812974
Try resting your wrists on the edge of the table to keep your hands more steady. Also try drinking a glass of wine or a beer before doing small/precise work, it calms you down.

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>>5812974
Use small pieces of paper to put unde the tools. That way you won't get any paint on the tank itself.
That's how I painted those red-white sticks here.

>>5812780
>Those 3D printing lines
Nah, I'm good

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Spade

>>5813357
It's a prototype.

>>5813896
Looks very nice.

Does anyone know a source for the MIG/AK books and dvds that is not some dodgy russian websites full of viruses?

>>5814015
You could find some stuff like the weathering magazine on Kickass torrents before it got taken down, but there wasn't much else there aside from a few Tamiya magazine torrents.

I'd love to see someone find a torrent of the AK FAQ on aircraft and armor though. If there was a non-DRM digital copy I would buy it, but the only ones I can find are shitty DRM ridden ones on google books.

I'm also interested in their new Full Ahead New Orleans class book that someone posted earlier in this thread,

>>5814059
i have a 200+ pages FAQ book from mig about tanks and 2 of the scale model addict magazines.

I wish i could find more of that stuff

Talking of books and such, i don't suppose anybody knows where i can find a torrent of the FineScale Modeler book/guide things?

>>5814168
Not torrents, but here are quite a few:
http://tehparadox.com/forum/search.php?searchid=226473831

is it easier to airbrush or hand brush?

>>5814325
yes

>>5814325
depends. airbrush saves alot of time sometimes.

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>>5814329
7/10 made me chuckle
>>5814325
Hand brushing is probably easier, although it's a lot harder to get consistent coverage without brush marks.
You need practice for airbrushing, but there's not a lot of skill needed for single-color coats.
Also small update. Gonna paint the tools now.

>>5814349
Can you do a basic SBS of the tool painting pls?

>>5814345
Sometimes? Try every single time. Also, hand-brushing will very much limit what you can do unless you're some kind of skilled expert with years of experience. You simply cannot replicate some effects such as luftwaffe mottling without an airbrush. Shading is also important and very hard, but not impossible to replicate without airbrushing.

>>5814486
>Sometimes? Try every single time.

It really depends on what you are doing. Lots of small parts that involve changing the color all the time? You will need alot more time with the airbrush than with your regular brush because of the cleaning.

>>5814497
What I'm saying is that quality hand-painting takes not only a lot more time, but a lot more skill than basic airbrushing if you want to get good results. Even airbrushing has a learning curve, but once you understand how to thin paints properly and whatnot it becomes quite trivial.

>>5814499
You seem to miss the point. Each tool has its uses.

Nobody with access to an airbrush would attempt to paint the whole tank (like >>5814349
), but also nobody would paint an hammer (like in the last thread) or other small parts with an airbrush. Both can be done, but both will take way longer than it would if you had used the right tool for the job.

>>5814381
Sure thing, buddy. Most of the steps require glaze medium or thin paint.
-Paint the handle with a basic wood color of your liking, preferably a light to medium brown, add greenish tint, if desired.
-use a thin, slightly darker color to paint basic shadows where the handle meets e.g. the metal part.
-add wood grain with a thinned, dark brown color. Do not overdo it.
-paint shades of red-brown to add deeper shadows.
-add matte brown shades to tone down the red.
-apply an oil filter to blend transitions and alter the overall color to your liking (you can use raw umber or whatever you have)
-use a dark brown to outline the part where the handle meets the metal (deep shadow)
-paint the metal part black.
-rub metallic pigments and/or a pencil on the black base.
-drybrush the metal part with a lighter metallic color.
Color choices play a rather big role. Use darker shades for a more weathered appearance.

>most of my builds are old dragons and revell
>try tamiya for the first time

Holy shit these models are top quality. They're so clean and accurate, and the instructions are actually designed not to confuse you for once.

>>5814696
Yea man

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Been working on this display case over the past two days for my Indianapolis. Still haven't finished the rigging yet, and I may re-coat the model in acrylic and do some more weathering.

I'm going to get some door knobs that I can drill a hole into tomorrow to use as display stands, also going to drill holes under the hull wider apart. I still have to finish sanding down the wood to a high grit, then I'm going to use some stain. Also need to clean off the plexiglass, I didn't have any specific acrylic glues, so I used super glue to get it all together and it didn't go that well.

>>5812961
Tiny amounts of glue, like pinhead tiny.

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Gunner, driver of this car, 2 oficeers, and moar details

>>5815440
>>5812961
Try using a gel super glue instead of a liquid. It will make dealing with smaller parts much easier.

>>5807491
Hey, can you guys maybe help me with this? It seems like it might be another thing some of you great guys do.
>>>/diy/1027828

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>>5815497
What scale are you thinking about?

You have quite some options here:
Scale Railroad buildings (different scales available)
Wargaming terrain (different scales/materials available)
Doing it entirely yourself from scratch with plastic card, wood or even printed papercraft houses


Besides here, you could check out /hwg/ on /tg/. There are pics of cities/villages pretty often and wargamers are somewhat experienced with building terrain.

>>5815497
/diy/nosaur following the migration here, this shit is also relevant to my interests, I want to craft a 1.5 x 1.5 meter-ish diorama for 3, 1/72 scale C-130 models I'm about to build, replicating a ramp/hanger area of a local RAAF base. Monitoring thread with intent.

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>>5815497
I want to make the same city. I chose 1/100 scale, because it is the best option in my opinion.
Here is the beginning of my city - a house and a trench.
I used the skewers for barbecue ( 3 mm diameter) , matches,plumbing flax, putty (not tamiya, acrilic putty for wood),foil, wire, plastic card. Armored truck, which posted higher itt for this city too.

trench

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>>5815644
fuck
also, i use sand for chinchilla and polyvinyl acetate (paper glue)

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>>5815024
I have to get into case building myself.
your base looks a bit big and thick, compare to pic. you going to route it?

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>>5815642
The floor is the easiest part. Find a piece of plasticard or wood. Score some gridlines in for tiles. Paint the whole thing black. Then take various shades of grey to fill in the squares. Pic related

>>5815735
>>5815024
Yea man you need a smaller base

>>5815748
The idea was a 1500x1500mm frame made from L section aluminium with some cross members running through the middle, onto which would be attached some thin ply. I would build the terminal onto the ply and attach the models. My plan is to hang it on a wall. I would love to build a thin acrylic cover like >>5815024 that could cover the entire scene, but it may not be practical.

The actual building of the terminals, hanger and other structures is what escapes me. I would like to be able to create realistic concrete textures as well, seams, cracks etc. If you're gunna go it, you may as well do it balls out.

>>5815803
1/72 is 20mm (miniatures/wargaming scale) There are lots of mdf kits for buildings in that scale, maybe you find something pre-made you like. If not, buy mdf or plasticcard and build the terminals yourself.

There is special texture paint that adds a concrete effect to whatever you paint with it.

how much lacquer thinner do you use? i spent almost a liter on 5 1/72 scale models. i use it to clean and flush the airbrush between colors.

is that a normal use rate?

>>5810531
is that academy? academy has the thickest decals of all manufacturers imo. the only thing that makes them conform to the model is acetone/lacquer thinner.

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>>5815906

No It's Hobby Boss.

The decals conformed really well actually. I was pretty surprised. Though I'm not sure why, I've never really heard bad things about HB decals.

The nose ones were a complete pain as there was absolutely no indication as to how the three decals were meant to be placed to form the complicated false framing required for the nose. Pic related is how it stands as of now. As you can see I made a complete fucking mess of it and will now have to mask off some areas and respray the framing in some areas and touch up the blue in others. After that's done I can finally get around to doing the distemper and weathering.

>>5815893
The fuck kind of airbrush do you have, industrial class?
Use cotton swabs instead of flushing multiple times, that's waste of thinner.

>>5810408
They are angry about field attachments I think

>>5810412
>>5810418
>>5810421
>>5810426
>>5810435
HE shells weren't anti tank, they are meant to clear infantry and fortifications why are you arguing

>>5810492
Ye, Bought their gas cans and clutter because of low price

>>5815629
Sorry, I went to sleep. I'd kinda like whatever I could use to make a village with >1000 buildings, and I'm sorry not to be clearer than that, I have absolutely no experience. I'm a complete newfag.
I kinda want to do it myself, but don't want to ruin it if you think that'll be too hard for a newfag. I'll link /tg/'s thread here for more opinions.
Right now, I really want to know if there are resources stating what I need to purchase.
>>5815643
>>5815643
That looks great!

So, what's your current WIP list like?
Mine:
Trumpeter E-25; painting stage
Zvezda SU-100, early construction
HobbyBoss T26E4 Super Pershing, mid-construction
Zvezda BTR-80A, mid-construction
Tamiya M41 W.B, Primed
(the above are all 1/35)
Zvezda IL-2 (1/72), mid-construction
HobbyBoss Type IX-C U-boat (1/350), mid-construction

I should really finish kits before buying more.

>>5816018

No problem, this thread is super slow anyway.

>1000 buildings

You need alot of space or a super small scale here.

>>5816029
Maybe more like 500? I just want it to be a proper town, with room for over 1000 little people.

>>5816030
check the link i'll put into /hwg/, its more related there.

>>5816028

Just the Ju 88 >>5810531

I have got a Revell Hindenburg just started in a box under my desk though and an HG Gelgoog Jager that I started when I was about 13 that I'm trying to save.

I've also got a Bf-110 and a Sabre (both Airfix 1/72) sitting in various states of completion on my shelf. Both of which were started for GBs on BM but never completed.

>I should really finish kits before buying more.

Word. I'm quite good at only having one project on the go at any one time now (the above shows I haven't always been) but in my two years back in the hobby I have bought approximately 32 kits for every one of the five I've actually finished.

Thankfully I'm doing much better at keeping my spending in check. Mostly because I now find my backlog quite intimidating.

>>5816030

Look at model railway sites/forums/magazines. What you're talking about there is basically a model railway layout.

>>5816161
Way too expensive. Look at these prices!
http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-structure-kits-and-accessories.html

>>5816223

I meant look to them for inspiration, techniques and tutorials you fucking dolt.

>>5816247
Yeah, sorry.

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>>5815735
>>5815750
Yeah, it is too thick I know, and I cut it like that. I don't have a proper router or bits (and I'm too cheap to get a proper router) so I can't do anything else really. I basically just took my Ryobi cordless saw and cut the wood at an angle on every side. I also got some copper door knobs today which I'm going to drill holes to use as a base for the ship. I'm going to leave it as is for now I think. Going to stain the wood once I finish sanding it down as well.

I only used that thick piece of wood because it was leftover scrap from a previous table I made for my airbrush, was too cheap to buy a newer, thinner piece. I did the routing using a roto-zip tool my Dad has, but he doesn't have any proper router bits that I could use sadly.


I also decided to get this kit. I've read so many good things about it, and checking out the reviews it looks like a 1/350 scale kit in a 1/700 scale. I even checked the instructions in a review and Flyhawk gives specific mixes for the camouflage using Tamiya paints, which is awesome.

Has anyone here built any of Flyhawk's 1/72 tank kits, like their FT-17 or Luchs?

>>5816028
My wip is the Sturmtiger, currently applying finishing touches with oils.
Post that E-25 please. I really want to see that.

>>5816028
Current WIP´s
Shipwreck; finishing touches, have reached dead end with the shoreline and trees and dont know how to advance.
Plamax 1/350 IJN Shimakaze; Started this to clear head from shipwreck, now waiting for PE bridge windows and railings from china.
Plamax Kanmusu 1/20 Shimakaze; Primed and painted some parts, just sitting there and waiting for motivation to continue.

I´ve just been playing Dawn of The Tiberium Age, waiting for the motivation to come back.

>>5816375
>have reached dead end with the shoreline and trees and dont know how to advance.

Then stop. If you're at that stage it's best not to do any more lest you ruin it.

Looked great last time I saw it anyway.

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>>5816375
That's the same Shimakaze as Hasegawa's kit, right? Or is it based on the Fujimi one (The Hasegawa one is much better from what I've seen). You should spend the extra money and get the photo etch set that goes with it. I built the kit (albeit not because of that game / anime, just because I liked the kit) a few months ago.

They also make a deck sticker sheet so that you don't have to paint the linoleum deck.

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Shitty picture is shitty, and I know some of you think the base is a little too thick (myself included), but I'm still happy with how it turned out. I sanded the wood down to 2000 grit, going to be staining it tonight.

I got the copper door knobs at Lowes, I actually got the idea after viewing Bill Plunk's USS Texas build over at
http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Album/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=670&sid=e6fe296d47066457bd7f2dc23de54fc3

I found the same knobs at lowes luckily, drilled a hole through them and used the screws to mount it to the board and ship itself. Looks 100x better than the shitty, flimsy plastic display stand that came with the kit itself.

>>5816669
Use the remaining space to display facts and/or pictures of the ship if you like.
That would be an easy solution.

>>5816329
I'll try to remember to take some photos tomorrow, it's dark here now so they'd suck. It's currently only had the red oxide primer; I was going to do a scheme where they'd done it in the red and applied the white text markings for testing. Really, I need to remove the wheels and give it another coat, but I'm lazy as shit and have been working on other stuff.

>>5816028
Italeri HS-129 (1/72), painting
Revell F4U (1/72), painting
Airfix Tiger moth (1/72) putting off doing the rigging on this
Revell Ferrari F50 (1/25) just finished building and painting all the engine/transmission/rear suspension
Tamiya Panzer III L (1/35) Finished the hull and running gear, building the turret tommorow. This is the first AFV i've ever made and i'm really enjoying it i think i'll be building more soon. I've got a quick question regarding the barrel though, is the best way to glue it like i would with an aircraft fuselage (tamiya extra thin on it and squeeze it so molten plastic comes out the seam and sand)?

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First time doing this stuff, but here's my tamiya 1/48 kv2. Still need to paint it winter white, but that's for another day
Was fun to do, but fuck the treads, and I ended up super gluing my fingers together making the tow cable which sucked.
Not sure if I'll continue making these models or not, but I'll definitely finish this one.

>>5816966
i love the 1/48 tamiya tanks. You can probably kill a person with it if you hit someone on the head with your KV.
They just feel like "tank".

>>5816974
I wish it was a little bit bigger, but the metal lower hull really does give it a solid weight. And for $30, it's hard to complain. Was fun just to test the waters without breaking the bank.

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>>5816028
WIP: Tiger I mid production
Also got a plane I just picked up on sale

>>5816949
RE: Pz III barrel; yeah.

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>>5812793
The 1/12 Panzer IV from the same company was only about $150-200 USD depending on which version you bought, and had a built in motor (Only forward/backwards movement though, but some people online modded it to be RC). There's no reason this one would be that much more than it.

>>5817144
Im guessing it's poor quality plastic then

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>>5817146
It's just your regular japanese quality plastic, like the stuff you'd see on Robot Damashiis, Figmas, and other jap lines. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. http://blog.livedoor.jp/hacchaka/archives/51963730.html

>>5817144
>>5817158
For a 1/12 that has barely any detail

What do you guys do to make the ground in a preferably 1 / 35 landscape, found the old knotted rope trick works well for grass but I have no land to put that grass on

>>5817186
shit forgot to say I want layout tips and recipes not scenery tips

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Are there any luminescent enamel paints out there?
I need to do glowing lights on a spaceship like pic related. If not any alternatives?

>>5817359
Silver paint under whatever colour clear paint you want might work

>>5817168
It's supposed to be a replica of the model they used in the series, which wasn't that detailed as well (until it gets battle damage).

>>5817359
Revell does a "Night color" which is basically the stuff used in glow-in-the-dark stickers and stuff.

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The decals just arrived, they look really good and thin. But until they are applied cant really say. Although for the panther ones I will need a late g for a next project
>>5817359
Another alternative is priming the part, paint it with some generic luminescent paint (here I can find them in art and crafts stores and kid toys stores, but search also in Amazon or eBay) and then coat it in shinny varnish to protect it. I think it should work but try it first on a scrap piece

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>>5818111
(it’s a long ass post that I’m chopping to fit)
>>5817186
If you mean how to make ground and stuff like that I use Paris plaster:
-CHEAP
-Can be "colored" while mixing with pigments or enamel products
-Can be applied easily (and also easy to clean)
-Can be painted after it dries with acrylics, pigments, whatever
-And of course you can "glue" stuff while it’s drying (be careful and work fast and by areas as it dries fast) or glue stuff on top
Here you have a nice and easy tutorial by mig jimenez of a general diorama

The most expensive thing he used is the terrain pads that costs like 13€ and can be used as a base or can be cut and worked on as he does. I have the "stony steppe" one and it’s really good. Following what he does in his tutorial its really simple and gives results, but you can use other products (a lot of alternatives to list here but check Forest-In-A-Pot for example for groundwork)
Dioramas are a complex subject and in a post you can’t get much, I recommend you to read some books (there are a lot of them and by really good modelers with a lot of tricks and SBS) or check youtube tutorials/builds (less quality than specialized material but easier to get).
Also I’m not a fan of posting ripped material but I can’t find this book anywhere for a reasonable price, The Diorama Perfection by Yoshioka, so I downloaded it and will re-share. It’s extremely good but in Japanese (all the text) as it covers all the aspects and the images are pretty explanatory, but a lot of info is lost in the text sadly.

>>5818155
I cant post links as it marks them as spam

>>5818157
Look on ammo mig website for a new or blog called "in the plastic garden"
Diorama Perfection:
on ge.tt
9y0Xioc2
>wew, thanks I'm just trying to help not shitpost

>>5816544
Not sure which one, I´ve been trying to find out original manufacturer markings in sprues but cant find any. It has a very good color separation with crisp detail. Im too cheap to get the PE kit meant for this model exactly, i´ll just get along with railing set only, a simple build.

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>>5818174
Primed, two mist coats and probably do a third later
>>5817144
Why don't buy a trumpeter 1/16 one? Really (complex) good kits and extremely detailed. Or is the scale jump too much? (I imagine 1/16 vs 1/12 is like 1:35 vs 1:32)
>>5816669
They look really good, almost custom made for scale model display. Also use the empty space to put a photo of nicolas cage as the captain of the ship for extra points in competitions
>>5816028
Trumpeter Btr-80 priming/painting
Tamiya Panther ausf g early (started years ago and abandoned almost all painted and finished) as a restoration project
Takom chieftain mk 10 just some pieces glued, gonna start it seriously after the btr but the idea of having to mask the Berlin brigade camo gives me ptsd
And depending of how much free time I have I'm going to buy a trumpeter e-100 or an amusing hobby Lowe, but can't decide which one

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The wood has been stained. This is the first time I've ever done something like this, and it's taking a very long time to dry. I think I sanded the wood a little too fine, and its making it harder for the stain to penetrate. Regardless, I think it should dry completely within a few days. Going to try and make some progress on the rigging today as well as finish some other small details such as the seaplane.

>>5818641
Looking good, both the ship and the display. By the way, how big is your fleet right now?

>>5818658
It's only the fourth ship I've done. I've done a Dragon USS Buchanan (1/350), Hasegawa Shimakaze (1/350) and a Dragon Z-38 Zerstroyer (also 1/350). I also did a 1/350 Trumpeter JMSDF Atago a few years ago.

I've got a Trumpeter 1/350 Prinz Eugen with Flyhawk photo etch and a pontos deck in the mail, as well as a 1/700 Flyhawk HMS Naiad which I'm gonna start working on this week after I finish up the touches on the Indianapolis.

>>5818641
The display really ruined it. Would have been way better in some sea diorama

>>5818495
Get the Low E.
It has all those nice features and it's a good looking tank you don't see that often.
Also Trumpeter E-100 has rubber tracks. (Price should allow for Friuls tho)

>>5818874
I never planned on building a diorama in the first place.
Then again, I know jack shit about making dioramas. I'd like to learn someday, but I would rather test it out on something cheaper rather than risk ruining an expensive build.

I need to read some literature about building ocean dioramas and whatnot before I even think of attempting to build one. That said, I could technically still convert this display into something like that in the future if I wanted.

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Step 1 in building a Kaiju model kit. cleaning up those spikes is a nightmare and it's going to require some reposing but it's at least a start

>>5818155
Thanks, My local hobby shop doesn't carry Forest in a pot so i'm going to either buy fake grass from my hobby shop or home make something of the sort, but I found the Paris Plaster and it is perfect for the job

>>5819067
forgot to say 2.5$ for 1kg is GREAT for Canada

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>>5807491
My Tamiya 1/35 M1A2 Abrams that I did with a C&C theme before EA killed the franchise. The Abrams was the medium tank in the first C&C but I went with a Tiberium Wars theme on this. Made all the decals with a cheap program I got at Colpar Hobbies.

>>5819115
Neat, C&C is probably one of my all time favorite video game series. Did you make the GDI decals yourself?

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>>5819123
Found the logo through google and used Microsoft Word for the "GDI" on the end. Took a bit of trial and error to get the size right.

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>>5819123
Here's one I did for one of my F-14 models.

>>5818641
Sorry man that stain job looks like absolute shit

>>5819159
That looks surprisingly good

>>5818641
Also hate to be the one to say it but the doorknobs look odd.

That ship is 10/10 incredible, and I really think you should scrap the base and start over.

>>5819047
Interested to see this

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>>5819211
Arika mustard for the base, gunship grey on the leading edges, and International Orange for the markings. Gotta love that blue painter's tape.

>>5819236
Shit, meant to say Afrika mustard

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>>5819216
>>5819209
The stain wasn't finished in that picture, that was simply letting the strainer sit on the wood for a few hours so that it could get soaked into it. I then took mineral spirits and wiped off most of the excess. I'm probably going to do it again to make it a little darker. and cover up some up the lighter areas.

I disagree about the knobs though, I really like the way they look and it was a cheap alternative to using the shitty plastic display stands that come with the kit. The front one sticks out a little bit, but other than that I'm satisfied considering I only paid $2.00 for the two of them.

>>5819269
>shitty pine display stained

looks bad m8, you should have just bought a walnut slab 2 in thick and had someone machine it down for you

>>5819275
I really honestly couldn't care less what you think m8, but whatever. I think it looks fine and I'm happy with it.

>>5819282
I'm just voicing my opinion m8, the least you could do is get one without giant knots in it.

A 8/4 4 foot long piece of walnut is not that expensive if you look at local mills around you.

I browsed through this thread and I didn't see a whole lot about air brushes and I have been thinking about getting one. Any suggestions about some good ones?

>>5819269
Actually looks better. I agree with the other guy about the walnut though

>>5819399
Start with a harbor freight. It works wonders.

>>5819399
I see the Badger Patriot and Eclipse HP-CS recommended often

>>5819403
>>5819410
Thanks, I was planning on looking for one tomorrow. Have an unfinished 1/48 Super Hornet and I wanted to get one of those Tamiya 1/350 Yamato models. Figured I might need an air brush.

>>5812149
>blah blah blah Tamiya is awesome blah blah blah they're the best blah blah blah they don't over complicate models blah blah
>stares at my godawful expensive Tamiya M1A2 SEP TUSK II kit, oversimplified, highly inaccurate
>compares it to the new Academy M1A2 kit that rivals Dragon's in terms of detail and quality, for half the price

I like Tamiya and all, but no. A lot of their kits are subpar at best, insulting at worst. Just because they're "easy" to build doesn't make a kit good.

>>5812197
>You don't paint before you glue things together... that's like rule # 1 of building models.
I take it you've never built a decent model?

>>5820044
>Just because they're "easy" to build doesn't make a kit good.

That always depends on what you expect from a kit.

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Ride enternal, shiny and green.
First coat (although really thick), this color says "airbrush and brush" but don't even think to hand brush something with it as it will look like absolute shit. With airbrush is absolutely on point.
>>5819568
I have a badger patriot 105 for general works (pic related was all painted with it) and a ventus Titan .25 for fine work. I highly recommend the badger, but buy first a good compressor (it's more important than the airbrush specially when you are starting better invest in that and then buy better airbrushes when you learn the basics). The main problem with airbrushing is
-cleaning, a mess and brokes the workflow
-all you do needs preparation, masking, etc (this may sound like a petty problem but you will see soon...)
But is worth it as hand brushing has limits (for most of the mere mortals of course) and cans are a mess to use and difficult to control

>>5820311
Shouldve preshaded a bit

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>>5820388
with this much paint it wouldn't have made any difference.

Hey guys, Planning on building a diorama of a German tank convoy with a Panzer 4 J and a Tiger E with a destroyed T-34-85 on the side of the road. but I was wondering if the German convoy would put the panzer in the front or the tiger in the front

>>5820431
Tigers Companies had Pz3s in their company for scouting, not Pz4s.

If you are talking about a "Kampfgruppe" then probably the Tiger. At least thats how they did it when the 502 tried to break out of Berlin with their King Tigers.

>>5820448
I want to make my diorama realistic and my panzer 4 was my first model which looks like ass so I'm going to get a Panzer III (L) when I get the 34-85, Thanks

>>5820455
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_heavy_tank_battalion

See the link for exact number of vehicles in mid and late war. They phased out the IIIs over time, but depending on when you want your diorama to take place it might be a better choice than a IV.

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>>5820468
Early 1944 in an Prussian forest

Planning in making it like the pic

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It sort of reminds me of a btr style vehicle

Planning on buying Zvezda T-34-85, because of price, if anyone has done it, pros and cons?

>>5820496
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zvezda-3533-Soviet-Medium-Tank-T-34-85-1-35-/162142828706?hash=item25c07738a2:g:9JkAAOSwwE5WavI5
it's the 1 / 35

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>>5820480
Hah, looks like the Tog II*.
Added plastic strips to the periscope because it looked like shit before. Now I'm applying paint again.

New to 4chan, I have a WIP 1/35 Tamiya Tiger Mid Production here.

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>>5820522
Forgot pic because I am retarded

>>5820525
It's nice but painfully obviously hand brushed. It's kind of unsettling to look at honestly

>>5820535
Yea, I'm going to go to my local hobby shop to get a micro brush to do chipping and i'm going to use that to go over the paintbrush scratches

First time I'm attempting to do chipping any tips, planning on making it a kind of rusty red color

>>5820545
Maybe you could give it another thin coat to blend the brush marks in?

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>>5820429
>>5820388
Its preshaded, although it's barely visible in pics, irl it's more accentuated
And yes, in that side I was too excited and didn't test the pressure before painting and it was too much. But it leveled itself and now it's more normal. Anyway it's getting a stripe pattern so it doesn't matter much
>>5820479
What division/unit? In that area and time the 3rd panzer army was deployed along the 4th army (these are near konigsberg/Kaliningrad and Pomerania) but I'm not sure that they were equipped with tigers 1 (a rare sight at those stages of the war). Your best bet is the heavy panzer battilon ss 505 which operated I east Prussia until the end of the war, and they were equipped with tigers 1 for sure.
Here you have a good reference for tiger units
http://www.fprado.com/armorsite/tigers-02.htm
As for the formation "it depends": if marching the light units scout ahead or flank. If in combat/high probability of it the heavy units assume the spearhead and the light flank or give support. These is theory as in practice things aren't that perfect so take the initiative and so what gives the most pleasant composition of volumes if you can't find a definitive answer. Look for "convoy" photos to see if you can find some reliable ref

>>5820545
Please. Thin your paints.
Do another coat or two.
Do it for the Tiger's sake.

>>5820589
workin on it atm

>>5820589
Excuse shitty setup

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>>5820598
Good, good.
Also the tools are now finished. As soon as I finish touching up the periscope it's clear coat time.

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>>5820624

>>5820640
Excuse the fact it's on a paint bottle to make it an even plain

>>5820642
I really need to spell check

>>5820563
I forgot to add I have a book of the panzer divisions somewhere if you need more info
>>5820512
It didn't have scope guards? That's weird. Nice work
>>5820480
Papa btr. The chassis is a vk7000 something right? I want to start a paper panzer soon (Lowe or e100) but I'm a bit undecided about the pattern. The disk and sennelager disk patterns are interesting or the octopus rings but I'm not sure of how they would look on a big tank. What are you planning to do?>>5820525
I might get heavy handed with the airbrush sometimes but Jesus that's thick. Looks kinda like wood. If you wanna repaint or the brushing it's not working, sand and try spay cans with silly putty/panzer putty/blue tac to mask and work the layers.

>>5820650
I handbrush like the cancer I am

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>>5820640
It's certainly better, you're on the right track.
Always remember, Rome wasn't built in a day and it's the same with paint jobs.
Which brands of paint are you using?
>>5820650
You're in for a treat. See pic and decide for yourself.

>>5820697
Wew that's good, what book is that from?

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>>5820710
AK's book 1945 German Colors. More or less worth the money if you ask me.
Also have a special Löwe camo.

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>>5820715
I know what I'm ordering next week

>>5820650
I have model master Engine Gray, Dunkel
Grun Field Green (but I don't use these as they are enamel paints) as well as Model Master gunmetal skin tone and German Feldgrau. I also have model color saddle Brown and Middle Stone those are the colors I used for tanks but I also have Daler Rowney black (which I use to darken the colors I have) and dark green as well as deco art brown (which I use mainly for landscaping my layout)

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>>5820800
Sorry meant >>5820697
And I'm getting more tonight a micro brush and maybe an airbrush depending on the price

>>5820807
Aaaaand it's upsidedown : )

>>5820808
>>5820807
G'day!

>>5820044
You're talking about a kit that is from 1982, with some newer molded parts and comparing it to something much newer. I've built the Tamiya TUSK kit and it still holds up quite well. Whooptie fucking do, no wonder the much newer Academy kit that literally came out this year is better.

Anyways we need a new thread, I'm going to make one soon.

New Thread:

>>5820902
>>5820902
>>5820902

>>5820904
Why not wait until we're on page 10? It's not like /toy/ is especially fast.

>>5820892
So Tamiya gets a pass for releasing a "new" kit with the MSRP of almost $100, when a lot of the parts are old antiquated, and barely researched. Even the "new" parts are oversimplified and lacking necessary details.

Plus it's fucking 2016. They're still using those stupid mesh for PE?

It's 2016 and they still can't mold mud relief holes on their sprockets? From a company that's supposed to be the "best"?

When it comes to armor kits, Tamiya is best for catering to the lazy modeler, who doesn't really care about accuracy, as long as the product is easy to build and the end result kinda looks like the subject being modeled.

That way they could go back to playing WoT or War Thunder.

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Build complete,
Paint start