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Welcome to the Gunpla/Plamo General

This is a blue board which means that it's for everybody (Safe For Work content only). If you see any adult content, please report it.

Thread replies: 325
Thread images: 71

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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
http://gundma.imgur.com/

Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint

Old thread: >>5708709
>>
I recall seeing something about abs plastic and lacquer paints not mixing well. Does that mean that I won't be able to top coat abs pieces with Tamiya's spray cans?
>>
>>5713820
When in doubt just test it out on the runners
>>
>>5713752
xth for ham hands and low image resolutions
>>
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hey /toy/ what are gunpla things that annoy you that don't annoy anyone else? i'll start.

1/100 beam sabers with 1/144 kits. i don't know why but they just look awful. the 1/144 beam sabers just look so much better, even just more structurally appealing than the 1/100 ones.
>>
>>5713896
you might be autistic
>>
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>>5713896

>inner frame has great articulation
>armor pieces reduce articulation to brick levels
>>
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>>5713089

Pretty sure that panel line on the ankle armor isn't meant to be a panel line. Other than that, good looking GM, anon.

Seeing someone build a GM makes me happy. GMs give me life.
>>
>>5713939
My version of this
>Figure has great articulation everywhere
>Except the ankles

Hey, check out all the dynamic poses I can't actually do because the ankles can't pivot for crap!
>>
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>>5713950
you know what's even worse?

>model has great articulation
>has weak ankles
>tips over on the ankle joints if you so much as breathe on it
>most posing is getting the damn thing to stand up
>>
>>5713752
1st for the guy who built ops pic getting mad at some fat guy
>>
>>5714084
It was the other way around
>>
>>5714105
wat?
someone got mad at those effect parts? then he can fuck off back to his fucking cave, those look great
>>
>>5714191
No, they went over it after someone asked him if he was the guy who had beef with ThoseGundamGuys last thread and he told the story.

They fucked up their event, scgmc, then handled it bad and he told them they handled it bad and one of their guys went full retard over it and blew up.
>>
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Which of these colour schemes do you guys like best?

I'm leaning towards 4 but I want some outside input.
>>
>>5714206
Forgot poll
http://www.strawpoll.me/10401653
>>
>>5714206
I like five and six the best.
>>
>>5714206
>http://www.strawpoll.me/10401653
Not overly fond of any of the ones with yellow bits; doesn't really mesh well with the red. Four and Six are probably my favorites, but Four seems too much like Char's Zaku II to me.
>>
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>>5714206
>those names
chuunibyou/10
>>
>>5714206
1, 3, 4
>>
>>5713950
fucking genoace

whose idea was that shit
>>
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>>5713950
Hey guys lets make a kit of the martial arts mech, what ankle motion range? Why would it need that
>>
>>5714314
I was so frustrated. If the ankles weren't practically locked it could do so much.

They gimped this so hard.
>>
>>5714191
they announced the wrong winners or something and instead of telling them in private and letting them know beforehand they decided to make a public post essentially denouncing the guys that had won, op called them out and said it could have been done better and the leader of the group got angry and called him a fuckwit or something
>>
>>5714337
Dodged a bullet there, phew.
>>
>>5713950
>what is a stand
>>
>>5714449
A physical manifestation of a person's fighting spirit.
>>
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Small display on the production of gunpla at the sg expo.

A plastic model of the machine that makes plastic model
And a brick of gunpla plastic.

>>5714471
The other stand silly.
>>
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Also a close up of the MG full armor gundam thunderbolt's cover for the arms.

The hand is the movable thumb and swappable fingers we all know.
>>
>>5714570
Cool, I'm here at Takashimaya too.
>>
>>5714570
FUCK

why can't they give us the regular fucking ver Ka hands, same as nu and hi nu
>>
MG Zeta plus C1
Should I do it?
>>
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>>5714607
i like mine
>>
>>5714615
But I don't have money
>>
>>5714617
then don't get it?
>>
>>5714642
I guess ;_;
Quite cheap though
>>
>>5714644
Then get it?
>>
>>5714650
Stop it you're confusing me
>>
>>5714660
its more than one person, stop flooding the thread with this bs
>>
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>>5713943

I fixed it.. And finished it :).

Time to build Jesta Cannon!
>>
Any UK builders fancy donating some kits to G-Con for them to display in their "museum of gunpla"
https://g-con.uk/events/museum/

I'm sure they'll be treated better than the PG Unicorn they were loaned.
>>
>>5714663
Looks nice for your first, mate. Have fun with the Jesta
>>
>>5713752
The fucking Kimaris' lance is so fucking heavy, it's whole arm just slouches. How to fix this shit?
>>
>>5714583
Victory ver. Ka was actually the first to use those swappable finger hands iirc. And those sonic welded hands are not regular to ver. Ka kits or even mg kits.

If I had to guess though the reason they went with the fixed pose molded hans is that the hands on thunderbolt stuff look a liittle different than normal with the joint covers on them and the big gaps on a poseable hand wouldn't fit right with that.
>>
Just got my first one at comicon.
>>
>>5714795
magnets
>>
>>5714876
2hardcore4me
>>
What does /gpg/ think of this channel ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_zK4unDUVc
I like it that he goes through the entire process of building it, panel lining and top coating(sort of) included.
>>
Anyone know which online stores in Aus are a part of the Gundam Info campaign?
>>
>>5714795
wait till 1/100
its absolutely fuckhuge
>>
>>5714868
How much did you overpay for it?
>>
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Should it be taking me 2-3 hours to do one tree? Beginner to this stuff and although I've amassed quite a bit of ok tools and have gotten somewhat familiar with them, what I'm not getting is how to do this at a good pace and how to not still have some sort of sprue mark or dark spot. Are those just a fact of life and you have to paint over them to truly get rid of them, or am I missing something?
>>
>>5715006
>tree
>worrying about speed
>spure marks

Anon you're better off doing things at a pace suited for you and not comparing to others.

Also they're called "runners", we can all do as we like with models and I personally find myself working section by section rather than cutting out whole runners just for some arbitrary speed requirement but just take your time.

The technique for handing spure marks is simple, dunno if you know but first CUT AWAY from the part, far as you can, then chop the nub but not flush, then sand away.

Any discolorations can be fixed in 2 ways, rub it down with your nail until its better or paint it (another trick I've seen is the use of electric erasers being used to buff the surface of nubs but its costly), one is best for snapfit but requires you to not be so critical of the plastic, the other is what any model builder should be doing, luckily I do either depending on laziness.

TLDR don't rush, they're runners, rub or paint nub marks
>>
>>5715006
there are tricks but you'll never truly lose the marks unless you sand and/or paint.
>>
>>5715006
>Should it be taking me 2-3 hours to do one tree?
Depends on how many pieces and the size. It usually takes me like half hour to build, say, two arms of an average HG (I have been building for 3 years and I sand using 9 grits).

>still have some sort of sprue mark or dark spot
Depending on the kind of piece and the way it attached to the runner you can avoid the mark. For example a lot of new HGs have very tiny gates, so you won't have to stress the plastic.
You can also cut the gate gradually to avoid stressing all at once, but chances are you will end with it anyway if the kit is old, the plastic is shit and the gate is thick.
>>
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Any recommended sets of chisels? Are the ones from WAVE good?
>>
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>Nips
>wearing masks
Pick one.
>>
>>5715186
They used up all of their masks walking around in public.
>>
>>5715194
That's out of politeness to society
>>
I was digging around in some boxes after leaving school and I found my unbuilt RG Exia. Are there any decent conversion kits that make it into the Repair III? I've found two, but one is sold out and the other looks pretty shitty since you have to snip away at parts of the inner frame to make some parts fit.
>>
Hey /toy/, I asked in the /m/ thread, but I was wondering what are you experiences with ordering from GGInfinite? I ordered something back on April 1st, and I haven't gotten any info on what I ordered in over 2 months. I've sent him 2 emails, the latest one today, and still have nothing. Is this common, or am I just dealing with a case of extremely bad luck?
>>
>>5715186
I guess the radiation already fucked them up, they're not afraid of a little lacquer poisoning.
>>
>>5715266
gginfinite is a scam artist. don't buy from him. try robot4less instead.
>>
>>5715266
>what did you order
>did you already pay for it
This is the information I need to give you a proper assessment.
>>
>>5714695
What happened to the unicorn?
>>
>>5715291
>>5715292

I ordered Gaelio's Schwalbe Graze, and I already paid for it. The charge was already made on my credit card, and, like I said, it's been 2 months, hence why I'm a little miffed about the whole situation.
>>
A must read/watch
http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers_pg2.html
>>
>>5715300
I would have already reversed the charge. I recommend doing just that, if you haven't already.

>order from unknown seller
>wait 2 months before asking anyone if they are reputable

I think you know the lesson you learned with this.
>>
>>5714695
>Guan

What is that?
>>
>>5715295
stores precious stock on shelves, film wrapped for safety.
PG unicorn on loan loose in an unsecured box, with a chair balanced right above it.

No fucking respect.

>>5715315
zoids HMM Iguan
>>
>>5715315
It's a model kit anon.
>>
>>5715308

Yeah, you're right. I've heard some good things here and there on the /m/ thread about how he is good at keeping in contact with people, but this just seems kinda unprofessional.

It's mostly my fault since I did forget to follow up after a few weeks, but still. How do I reverse the charge, exactly? Like, is it something I can do in their online store, or do I have to call the bank or something? Never had to do something like this before in my life. Worst case, I'm willing to eat the $30 charge, no problem, but if there's something I can do, then I'll do it.
>>
>>5715364
Call whoever issued you the card. Also, or a replacement.

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1039321997&ref=dos

https://order.mandarake.co.jp/order/detailPage/item?itemCode=1042636867&ref=list
>>
>>5715373

Got it. I'll call my bank tomorrow then. This sucks, I hope that this gets resolved relatively quickly.

Also, if Paypal is charged with,foreign currency, say in this case Yen, does it charge my credit card for USD or for yen? Like, my bank doesn't accept purchases made with foreign currency, but I'm not sure if buying through paypal will let me theoretically bypass that or not. It's my main reason for only shipping locally or through amazon, since when I called my bank, they said they cannot process foreign currency purchases.
>>
>>5715400
Paypal will convert for you for a small fee, like $3ish.
>>
>>5715402

Ah, ok. Then maybe I'll go that route in the near future sometime, like for P-Bandai shit. For now my main concern is that GGInfinite has my credit card info, and might use it erroneously.
>>
>>5714908
Zombster, Hobbyco

probably more
>>
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Newfag here, getting my first kit soon and I have a question:
Are sharpie fine-points and ultra-fine points okay for panel lining? what's the difference between sharpies and gundam markers?
I'd like to make the first kit I get not look like shit but the 2-pack gundam markers are 8$. I don't model much so I don't feel like I can justify dropping that much just to do panel lines.
>pic related
>>
>>5715567
You can panel line with just about anything honestly, provided you can easily wipe off any excess, I'm 99.9% sure those sharpies would work
>>
>>5715567
Back when I was like 12, and just started in the hobby, I would panel line with Sharpies, and not even the fine point ones. Typically, right after application, you can rub off excess with your finger, or a paper towel, but after it dries, you better get some acetone or rubbing alcohol.
>>
>>5715400

Paypal will convert to local currency at a not particularly great exchange rate, or charge in the original currency. There's an option to choose which when you check out with their interface.
>>
>>5715567

If you have an art supply store near you, there are super thin tipped art markers that usually cost $2-3 bucks. I have a couple sakura microns with super fine tips and they work pretty well.
>>
>>5714615
I like yours too
>>
Dumb question from a new member of the hobby, but are there any websites that I can go to to find reviews of any gunpla kits? In particular, I'm looking for reviews of the HGBF Gundam The End and Gunpla Builders Beargguy, since I'm looking for something different after having made two very similar models. The latter seems to be a pretty popular one but I can't find many reviews on the former.
>>
>>5715802
Dalong.net
>>
does anyone have any experience with the zoids kits that retail from ~6000 yen, anything to say about the difficulty and build quality of some of them?
>>
>>5714989
Like 5 dollars. Won't do that again.
>>
>>5715870
Difficulty: moderate, they have a shitton of parts and will require some handpainting to look decent

Build quality: typical Koto, there are some weird engineering choices and the plastic isn't as nice as Bandai, but the finished product looks great (and poses nicely unless it's the Gun Sniper Custom)

Recommended: yes

I've built Shield Liger Mk II, Blade Liger AB, Liger Zero Panzer, Buster Tortoise and Leena's Gun Sniper and I like them all
>>
>>5715802
Nobody bought The End because it's ugly and cheap-looking
>>
>>5715802
prime 92 is an excellent resource. He's pretty much built every main hg and mg out so far and he has over 1000 videos so you can probably find exactly what you're looking for.
I watch like 3 of his videos every day, even reviews of kits I have no interest in buying but somehow he makes me want to buy them lol
>>
>>5715981
>I'm ignoring all the people that bought and love The End because they don't fit my narrative
>>
>>5715802
I'm considering getting a 2nd The End to kitbash with a Gundam Seraphim. Imagine, it's hands AND it's chest AND it's back all have faces!
>>
>>5716022
>he
>his

She's a woman who uses voice modulation for whatever reason

I wish she wouldn't, that voice is one of the worst things about the channel
>>
>>5715870
Hey man just buy the Shadow Fox and you'll be getting the best of the line. No painting needed. No glue needed. Just some nippers and a file if you're not ok with minor nubs.

See pic.
>>
>>5716198
>two eyes

It's shit
>>
Anyone have experience with a pin vice? Any regular old drill bits should do just find, right?
>>
>>5716589
Standard pin vices hold <3.5mm diameter bits.

Old or not, the drill bits should be sharp.
>>
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How hard are these FAGs to put together and make them look decent? Is it a snap build and topcoat deal or do I have to do more?
>>
>>5715771
t-thanks
>>
>>5716729
Gotta use pastels do simulate blush and shadows.
Some kits require a little paint like stylet
>>
>>5716143
did you ask him what his pronouns are?
>>
So after making GM/Jim should I wait until the Zaku Origin arrives or go straight onto Jesta Cannon?
>>
>>5716802
Hey broseph, I am totally a different poster than the one on /m/ and I too, ironically, recommend building the Jesta. Ha. Ha. Ha.
>>
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completed Sword Impulse dump
>>
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So i want to get a PG kit. Only one i own so far is the skygrasper/aisle striker set i got on sale a couple of years ago. Which is a better kit? the basic strike gundam or GP01FB?
>>
>>5716855
If you have the Aile Strike pack, then get the Strike, you goofball. And if you had enough money to get the Zephyrantes, you can get either a Zaku II or Gundam with it since they're cheap.

Also, even considering shipping, the GP-01 box is the same size and heavier than a PG Strike + Zaku or Gundam combined.
>>
Just finished building my RG Astray Red and I am amazed at the range of motion on the thing. I used to twist and snap the old ones in the early '00s and just started doing older master grades lately. The real grade is a whole different thing though. I love that he can actually squat.
>>
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>>5716905
Got it for 3 dollars from an auction, kek.

Some parts were already built and so I just fast built and finished it.

I sure hope I can come across more F91 kits for chump change.
>>
https://youtu.be/NA2XJ7PTT3M Hey people, check this shit out. Has any1 ever tried this trick before??? I've only known the cigarette ash + super glue trick that can stick together almost everything (it's super strong).
>>
>>5715567
I use them all the time and they work fine.
>>
>>5717053

It's pretty much the same thing, ash doesn't have any unique properties, it just adds material to the superglue that you can sand, baby powder does the same thing. You can also just use more superglue and a kicker, it's a bit tougher to sand away but you get a smoother join.
>>
>>5717133
Well with superglue it dries almost instantly with most super glues. Also it becomes harder than Johny Sin's cock afterwards.
>>
>>5713752
hi /toy/, i'm an obvious newfag here. i've been reading guides here and there and i can't seem to find the definitive answer as to whether or not i should apply topcoat over my sticker decals.

i recently finished building my MG blitz and i noticed they come with both sticker and dry transfer decals. now, the dry transfers are a no-brainer, but if i apply top coat on my sticker decals will it look as good (i.e not stickery) as the dry transfers?

thanks for helping a brother out /toy/
>>
>>5716828
>>5716830
>>5716831

nice stuff
>>
Had some spare cash lying around and snagged the Revive RX 78 off Amazon. Everything is looking good, I just have one question. On all pictures of the boxes of the revive kits, the golden revive logo is in the top right of the front box art. Mine, however, does not. After the initial first run did they take the revive logo off or something? Just seems odd, because as far as I can tell it is the revive and is a bandai kit, just missing the revive logo.
>>
>>5717330
dont sticker on matte topcoat, results in silvering
obviously theres only one other way to go
>>
>>5717347
What's the HGUC number on the box?
>>
>>5717354
>only one other way to go
are you saying i should sticker over the matte topcoat? or use clear coat instead?
>>
>>5717360
HGUC 191 and has Bluefin sticker on back.
>>
>>5717361
coat after sticker

Anyway, does anyone have lineart for kimaris trooper, or are we gonna have to wait for the 1/100 until the nips get off their butts and start making one?
>>
>>5717362
Weird. Well, it seems legit enough I guess, don't know what else to say man.
>>
>>5717362
That's the Revive then.
>>
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>>5717369
>>5717370
Cool. Just struck me as odd when I opened the Amazon box and the revive logo was missing.
>>
>>5717365
>coat after sticker
so, sticker/decals then coat over it?

sorry, i'm kinda slow
>>
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>>5717390
Yes. Pic related
>>
>>5717397
this chart is missing seam-welding
>>
>>5717403
I suppose that would fall under modifications
>>
>>5717381
They won't ever release the old kit anymore, this has taken its place as the HGUC RX-78 kit, and to christen its place, they removed the Revive logo.
>>
>>5717403
i don't seam-weld my MGs, or at least the outer frames.
>>
Is there something like the custom creator in Gundam Breaker 3 for in browser or an application? I just want to look at this guy and the proportions before I buy three kits to bash together. Basically a smaller more standard Zeong with the Zaku II shoulder shield, heavily modded head and a Gouf waist.
>>
>>5717452
Photoshop or GIMP can help worth this type of stuff. Grab Lineart or images off Dalong and get to testing.
>>
>>5717452
Dalong, cigarette cuffs and a not mspaint tier image editor
>>
>>5717456
>>5717457
I'm just gonna reference the line art and draw it.
>>
Anyone got stuff from the Pla-Act line? They seems fun but the reviews are scarce.
>>
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how did I do? first time I've made a model with proper sprue cutters and a hobby knife. I don't think I plan to coat this one, but I do plan to use a pen on it.
>>
>>5717998
Just needs some filing and sanding of the nubs on the shoulder cannons, and the leg missile pods. Generally remove all nubs and it should be good. Cheers.
>>
>>5717998

could you take another shot with better lighting?
can't see any detail.
>>
So has any1 made any Macross kits? Are there any that are fully transformable? And I mean kits not toys, cause all I see in reviews are toys.
>>
>>5718031
thanks, I'll get to that, I feel my sanding paper might be too rough for fine finishing, or I am doing it wrong, it's 1200 but I always end up scraping off the plastic and discoloring the part.
>>
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>>5718037
I neither have good lighting or a good camera so I just turned on flash, best I could do
>>
>>5718039
>discoloring the part
This is what a finishing coat is for.

If you are really dedicated enough to sand down the nubs and panel line, a quick and easy clear coat over the top will take you only a little extra work and money for much improved results.

Particularly a matte or flat coat of clear really improves a kit and costs like 5 bucks a can and a few minutes of time.
>>
>>5718038
check out Dalong for the 1/72 bandai macross kits.
General consensus seems to be that like with most transformable kits, they are a bit unstable. Plus they are sticker fests.
>>
>>5718060
I heard it's best to do it before it's done though, you have to take apart the model right? so that you can get enough of a coat all over it. and I can just do that outside or in my bathroom, I worry about the fumes
>>
>>5718069
You can do a light clear coat over the whole model without taking it apart. Just remove and clear pieces.

If you use a can, just make sure to use it a fair distance from the model, and use quick, controlled bursts so that you don't over-coat the kit.

The optimal way is take everything apart, but a light, quick coat over the top of a finished kit won't hurt it. Make sure you let it cure for at least 24 hours before you start playing with it again.

Some of the joints might get sticky, but gently moving them will loosen them back up.
>>
>>5718084
*remove THE clear pieces
>>
>>5718039
I first sand it with a 800 grit and then with a 1000 grit. Just make small moves on only one direction so you won't eat away the polstic too much. Also the higher the grit the smoother the sandpaper.
>>
Also is the Australian bro that offered me that HG Zeta he didn't want here???
>>
>>5718069
I usually just separate it into big sections, torso, limbs, etc. It's enough to get a proper coverage.
>>
>>5718039
>>5718039
When I am taking the pieces off the runner I seem to get a lot of that white discoloration around the nub. My usual process is to clip the part off leaving as much nub as possible, clip the nubs off, shave it down with a hobby knife, then sand it with 1000 grit sandpaper. Am I doing something wrong? Are my clippers/hobby knife applying too much stress to the piece? Or is it maybe because the kit I built recently was made using older plastic (gm sniper)? I'd appreciate any advice.
>>
>>5718183
I'm pretty new to the hobby myshelf but I've done some research. I first use an 800 grit sandpaper cause it eats away most of the nub after I cut it with a hobby knife. Then I use an 1000 grit to smooth it out. a small triangular file might come in handy to rub the white nubs to. Also some older kits have bigger gates (the part where the gunpla pieces connect to the runner) so they leave harder to clean nubs. All in all if you try enough you'll get it to work out. So don't get yourshelf down and keep on it. Oh and one last thing, try some of the IBO kits, cause they're cheap and fuckin' awesome. I reccomend the barbatos 1/144 and the Kimaris Trooper 1/144.
>>
>>5718038

I have whatever the first VF-25S they released is. All the markings are decals/stickers and some of them rub on the transformation joints. The whole thing is pretty fragile due to the complex transformation, and the battroid mode's range of motion is somewhat hindered by it. I also can't find the instructions and forgot how to transform it so it just stands there in battroid mode.

Looks pretty nice, though.
>>
>>5716729

Pretty easy to put together, yeah. Most of them will look really great with just a little bit of touch-up work. Panel lining, highlights, etc. Some people seem to think the faces need paint, but they honestly look fine without it.
>>
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>>5718237
I actually built a graze custom not to long ago. Just ordered a graze ritter and am thinking of getting a grimgerde down the line.
>>
>>5718269
Any pics?
>>
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>>5716589
Depends on the vice you get. Mine can hold some well-sized bits, as well as the tiny ones.

>>5716740
No, he's commenting on the pronouns he used in reference to prime92

>>5718183
That's completely natural and normal. Unless you're using a hotwire cutter, cutting and sanding plastic will stress it, that's what those lighter spots are, stress marks. Just rub them with your fingernail, it'll become darker and less noticeable.
>>
>>5718337

Nice police graze.
>>
Not sure who is aware or interested but Amiami has put up a load of Bandai decals for preorder along with tons of older kits.
Even the MG RX-78-2 3.0 decals which I've not seen anywhere in stock for ages.
>>
>>5718337
Looks like Tallgeese 2 colors.
>>
>>5717421
>They won't ever release the old kit anymore
Source please

[spoiler]good riddance, if true[/spoiler]
>>
>>5718393
>No, he's commenting on the pronouns he used in reference to prime92
I know that. But those aren't primes pronouns. He/Him/Himself.
ask him yourself.
>>
>>5718648
>caring about pronouns
>>/out/
>>
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Can anyone tell me specifically which Crossbones figures/kits these are?
>>
>>5718808
HG Crossbone X2 and HG Crossbone X2 Kai.
>>
>>5714314
I still like this kit because the proportions are cool, but man those ankles were a disappointment. Also, this segues nicely into my personal annoyance: that clear glittery plastic. It just looks bad to me. I like clear plastic fine enough, but the glitter just makes it look cheap and bad. I feel like they were going for a sort of sparkly celestial effect but it completely misses the mark.
>>
>>5718466
I wouldn't quite say "They won't ever release the old kit anymore" but they would definitely slow down the re-release of it. Hell, do they even still release the old Zaku MG?
>>
>>5718242
Dalong has the manual scanned you know
>>
>>5714583
They're less stable. Fixed hands hold weapons better even with pegs.
>>
>>5718811
should be noted that they are both P-Bandai.
>>
>>5715567
No, get Sakura microns. Size 005.
>>
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>why do you need GodHands they ask
Also the new Quick Setting extra thin cement is really nice for gluing tiny shit like this. It sets before it gets a chance to melt the piece.
>>
>>5718808
>>5718811
what color would you even panel line this?
>>
just opened a new tube of putty and it started gushing out the top. now there is a weird smell.
i cleaned it up with paper towel but the smell is still here. should i open a window?
>>
>>5719058
Metallic blue
>>
When priming, is it necessary for the piece to fully be all the same shade as the primer? I'm asking since while grey doesn't have much of that problem for most plastic colors, white primer, like Mr. Base White, is hard to get the piece fully white, especially when it's on a red piece or something similar.

And while on the subject, does using a light grey primer or white primer really matter? I don't think I've ever seen WIPs of gunpla that use white, even ones that are primarily white like that super detailed MG V2 or his new project with the Freedom 2.0.
>>
>>5719112
I use grey to neutralize then base white for parts I want to be bright like yellows and whites. I don't think it makes a huge difference but I prefer light grey primer, less coats needed to achieve the color you really want.
It is hard to get complete coverage with the white but it won't make or break your paint job if its not all uniform
>>
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>>5719050
Silicone pour time.
>>
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The Geara Zulu is getting there anons. Enamels are ariving today so I can mess around with the detailing some more soon.
>>
>>5719130
Huh, I never thought about that, stacking base white on grey. I should try that with some spoons. Thanks!
>>
>>5719050
Noice, might pick a bottle up to try.
So, mind explaining what those blocks are on the roofs?

>>5719071
Huff it senpai
>>
>>5713351
You gotta treat that shit like a baby dude. Read the manual, some parts are suppoused to have a click sound.
>>
does anyone know how gunpla plastic does with car paint? I have to do some touch up on my car and I'm pretty sure I'll have a little extra on the paint brush ect and it's not like I can put it back in the bottle so I could use it on the 1/144 Kimaris I have.
>>
>>5719137
your base coat is nice and clean but those detailings need work dude
>>
>>5719156
I know man. It's my first time painting and I was dumb enough to do acrylic paint over acrylic for the details.

I'm going to use enamels for the detailing now so that I can clean up when I mess up.

Detailing is harder than I thought
>>
>>5719151
Shit melts the models, I've heard primer can protect against this...preferably model primer but I have yet to try this.

Get a test piece, prime then use car paint
>>
>>5719147
they're called "windows", senpai
>>
>>5717998
Put a GM head on it and it'll be perfect
>>
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>>5719147
The scientific name is "dormers".
>>
>>5719133
With the way you're arranging those in the mold you're going to have a hard time pulling the parts out of the silicone thanks to the roof overhang.
>>
Not really a model guy here. Are those semi translucent effect pieces custom made in the OP pic? If so, does anyone know how or what they're made of
>>
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>>5719501
Pulling the parts out was not a problem but my old shitty silicone was. It set too quickly. I should've just poured it without degassing.

Oh well, it was either that or throwing it in a trash, at least part of the mold came out okay. I will have to redo it with good silicone tonight.
>>
>>5719533
They are custom. From what I've gathered, he uses hot glue to shape it all up and then paints with clear paint.
>>
>>5719533
custom made, he won't ever tell you how he did it because its "top secret OC don't steal recipe" he wants to sell
>>
>>5719647
>>5719772
>>5719533

His "Super secret effect part technique" is done using hotglue and a bowl of water and lightly sculpting it before it fully sets. The water is to cool it faster and apply light pressure so it doesn't blob or lose shape.
>>
>>5719772
No, he's got a few tutorials ready to upload, he's just waiting for another project to get off the ground before he finishes more tutorials for other things as well and uploads them all.
>>5711648
>>
Also, what's the recommended product to use to bond water slides to bare plastic?
>>
>>5719880
Probably micro sol
>>
>>5719880
I brush on a single layer of micro-sol. It basically melts the decal film and help it conform to the part shape, remove any wrinkles, etc.

Just don't mess with it after brushing it on or you will destroy the decal. Brushing on too much too heavy can also damage your paint to be careful.
>>
>>5719889
>>5719901
Damn, gonna have to go back out to the next town to pick some up; all I have is Model Masters Decal Set. I thought that was for the same purpose but the instructions confusingly disagree.
>>
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How are you supposed to pose this fucker? His feet are tiny, his lances, while cool, are too large, and he feels way too fragile.
>>
>>5720253

on the included stand?
>>
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Painting my first MG, a Unicorn. Still needs lots doing to it.

I want to do an oil wash on the metals but I'm concerned it will clog up moving parts. They're already pretty tight after painting.
>>
>>5720298
Aren't you supposed to mask the moving joints before painting so they don't become so stiff?
>>
>>5720253
Doggy style.
>>
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Just finished my HGUC Zeek MK I!

Finally, after several months of a rut, I've done it! I broke my gunpla block!

Commence the pic dump and the stash pics to see what you guys think I should build next!

>that paint job is a fucking eyesore

Yes, I know. I'm still learning here! This is only my seventh kit!
>>
>>5720308

is that a fucking broccoli on his shoulder
>>
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Next to my other Zeon models so far.
>>
>>5720298
Paint looks a bit thick in general, but good job for your first time.

I've never found washes to stiffen up anything before, but if you're worried, doing a very light wash should be fine.
>>
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Close up on the shelf.
>>
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Stash bin number 1!
>>
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Bin number 2!
>>
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Bin number 3!
>>
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Stack of HGUC kits! It's always growing! IT's starting to scare me! I need to get a fucking cabinet or some shit installed into my closet!
>>
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Option parts and my MG MSGO Gundam that I just bought from B&N on a fucking impulse!
>>
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>>5720314
>>5720318
>>5720321
>>5720324
>>5720326
>>5720329
>>5720333
>>
Autismo strikes again
>>
>>5719857
Or he could just upload the ones that are done now instead of been awkward and making people wait on if he ever actually uploads how he does it.

Watch it be just hot glue and nothing else, which will be why he wants to wait it out.
>>
>>5720366
I mean, I could just not upload them.

Fuck me for figuring out how to do something new, right?

Seriously, getting your knickers in a twist because you want it now isn't going to do anything. You'll get them when you get them.
>>
>>5720333
Great. Now piss off and build.
>>
>>5720384
Someone else here, I don't care for these effects but I know anyone who actually cares about sharing techniques would have it uploaded the moment they figured it out, so yes, fuck you jew, your attitude towards this shit is what actually pisses me off.

No one actually gives a shit about your magic "secret" or will care enough to buy it. They're just curious when they see a neat effect and don't expect their inquiries to be responded with "I could tell you how right now but I'm a fat jew so I won't" when any other builder would be glad to share their techniques and process. Anyone who actually gives enough of a shit will just figure it out on their own and possibly do a better job, and share it with everyone while you hold on to you sekrit technique and cry for attention
>>
>>5720411
>or will care enough to buy it.

That's fine cause I won't be selling instructionals.

I've sold thousands of custom effects though, so, you know, whatever man. I can't help you from being pissy because I made money off of something I took the time and effort to figure out. It's a pretty dumb thing to be mad about.
>>
>>5720415
Then why be a bitch about how its done or try to keep it to yourself? because someone might just make their own effects? Do you think your art is so shit it needs artificial exclusivity to be a worthwhile purchase?

Anyone can figure shit out, you don't get money from that, you get money from making cool shit people want, so long as you put in the time an effort into your art to make it worth buying you'll be fine, even if everyone knows how to do it.

This is why your shit isn't picking up traction, right now everyone just treats it as cool images of some dude's builds and move on, but some tutorials and process videos would really get people talking about it and trying their own, and when they fail to get the same results on their own they'll click a link and buy your versions.
>>
>All this fuss over his clear effect parts

Here guys, all save you all the trouble of waiting for him.

Google/youtube "Hot Glue Jewelry" and "Hot Glue Sculpting".

Congratulations, you can now make your ton of your own effect parts for under $10.
>>
>>5720441
>This is why your shit isn't picking up traction

I don't care? It's not like I'm spamming them across every gunpla outlet I can find. I made these for myself and posted the results. I don't sell anything for gunpla. What I do sell sells out in minutes, so I don't care if it picks up any further because I'm at production capacity.

I'll upload my tutorials when I want. They'll be free and anyone can go off and do their own thing then, I don't care.

If you want to get bummed out because I'm not giving them to you now, again, I don't care. Call me a jew, I don't care. I don't even fucking know you.

You're wasting the thread, so either send me a shitty email or get back to gunpla.
>>
>>5720411
are you dumb? if someone invents something they don't immediately post the blueprints online for everyone to rip off. he was running a business.
Do resturaunts upload all their recipies online?
Does apple release the blueprints to their latest phones??
>>
>>5716905
I don't know shit from shinola when it come to Gunpla, but I love mechs, and this guy looks bad ass! Is this a custom or does this thing have a name?
>>
Why does hlj wouldn't the Macross F kits? Amiami has it but they're shipping cost were too high
>>
>>5720675
*wouldn't be restocking

God, it's hard to type on a small phone
>>
>>5720498
Zanscare
>>
>>5719647
>>5719772
>>5719845

It never looked like hot glue to me. This is the canofbeams guy, right?
>>
>>5720308
>>5720313
Applied impressively well, if it is.
I'm just hoping he buys another shield and writes "ZEON" on it so that mofo can go gangsta with his shields.
>>
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Meanwhile, thank god I bought that 5|0 detail brush last week.
>>
>>5719880
Mr Mark Softer and Setter
>>
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How are the Wave FSS 1/144 kits? I've heard that they need to be painted and cemented, but I really need a Knight Of Gold in my life.
>>
To the more experienced hamhands of /toy/, how in God's name do you sand small 1/144 parts?
>>
>>5720858
I try and attach the piece to something else, alligator clip, a little bit of sticky putty, something, to gain more grip.
>>
>>5720858
I sand my hand, my nails are flat in places where i hold tiny pieces, and my fingers are losing skin, slowly but surely.
>>
>>5720858
Same way you sand 1/700 parts >>5719050 : slowly and carefully. The smaller the part the higher the grit.
>>
>>5720858
I spend unholy amounts of time carefully sanding with the corner of a sandpaper folded a gorillion times until I realise I oversanded the piece and cry myself to sleep

Also this>>5720870
>>
>>5720858
Trim off as much as i can with the knife. Carefully sand with a sanding sponge.

>>5720881
Well at least most of the time you don't see it unless up close.
>>
>>5720858
I'm working on my second 1/144 gunplay, and I usually end up scratching the area around the nub some and have to buff it with fine grit sandpaper. Kinda just have to get in there with sandpaper on a popsicle stick or something to work on the nub really deliberately, don't just sand it like a piece of wood.
>>
> prepare to thin yellow enamel for airbrush
> paint has aged to point of being insoluble in thinner
Well, good thing I'm already going out tomorrow to get Micro Sol
>>
>>5720689
They will. Fucking order it and they'll fill your order
>>
>>5720806
did you thin your paints to do this tiny figure or is it not necessary?
>>
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Used one of the stickers for the weapons as the monoeye, how does it look?
>>
>>5721177
Looks nice, I did the same thing for my Origin Ortega Zaku since it doesn't even come with any weapons that use the stickers.
>>
>>5720821
Generally much better than the 1/100 kits, but they still require a lot of work.
>>
>>5720384
I don't want it, I just think it's pointless making the people who do want it wait for no apparent reason.
>>
>>5720441
Holy shit stop being so shitty, he said he's going to put up the tutorials, he doesn't owe you shit. And if he wants to sell it instead that's fine too if people asks him, don't like blatant advertising though.
>>
>>5720806
I don't think people have blue faces
>>
>>5721177
retarded
>>
>>5720692
>Zanscare

It's a Den'an Zon. The Zanscare Empire is from Victory Gundam that's from F91.

>>5716907

They turn up periodically. I have the Den'an Zon, G-Cannon, G-Cannon Magma and the Heavy Gun.

They sometimes even turn up on HLJ for like 400yen. Just put a load on backorder as they always seem to come in together.
>>
Should I buy on gundamplanet.com or are there better alternatives?
>>
>>5716907
revive when?
>>
>>5721929
Look around for deals. Since GundamPlanet has a flat rate for shipping, buying single kits will drive the price up. HLJ is having their summer sale this month, so if you don't mind ordering from Japan you might find something there. Amazon is also good for single kits shipped quick, especially if you have Prime or Amazon Student.

That being said GundamPlanet ships damn quick, they've got a reasonably good selection, and the "GUNDAMPLANET" nippers are great.
>>
Is there anywhere that sells custom/random decals for personalizing a kit?

I'm working on a Zaku II in my own custom colours and I want to throw a cool custom decal on it somewhere.
>>
>>5721929

are you looking for cheap or fast? cheapest to buy from japanese sites

fastest but much more expensive to buy from american sites
>>
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Now onto white primer and hand painting!
>>
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>>5720316

Yeah I struggled a bit with my primer at first. Think I've got a bit better with it now. I'll do some tests of oil washing first

>>5720305
I've done this on joints that will be entirely covered. I'm more talking about joints that will have bits covered and uncovered when moving e.g inner elbow joints and things.

Made a bit of progress today.

I think I'm going to repaint that waist bit the same grey as the faceplate, the metal seems a bit jarring to me.
>>
>>5720318
>>5720308
This makes me feel ill.
>>
>>5722193
>all those citadel paints
Someone plays warhammer
>>
Is there a good primer for handpainting. I don't have an airbrush and I'd prefer not to rattlecans if I don't need to.

(Currently paint with Vallejo acrylics for what that matters)
>>
Where can I get some 1/144 guns to pimp my gunplas?
>>
>>5722228
HLJ, Banzahobby, or any store that has builder's parts???
>>
>>5715243
As if gooks will ever be polite to anyone.
>>
>>5722228
Also the Build Fighters stuff http://dalong.net/review/bf.htm
>>
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Update on bee-Stylet.
Found the weapons she'll be wielding, both from the HGBF valuable pod set, I think once painted they'dd suit her well, the shield looks kinda hive like already imo.
>>
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>>5722374
Also gatling-bum... yes/no?
>>
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>>5721637
I got these two for 10 bucks but havent had the chance to build them since trying to finish all th Seed Destiny MG's I have lying around.

In the hunt for a Vigna Ghina, Berga Giros and Guntak R44.
>>
>>5722376
well what else would you put there,

a giant, single use, missle?
>>
>>5722416
you know that WOULD make sense, with her being a bee.
>>
>>5722374
>>5722376
Looks breeetty good. I think I saw you made custom wing WIPs in previous threads. Weapon choices look very good, especially if you consider the gatling butt may be firing stingers instead of bullets.
>>
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>>5722424

or maybe a large, hive shaped back compartment that fires funnels.

and she could control them with a device resembling pic related
>>
Any animal-looking Gundams?
>>
>>5720333
>has this much autism
>plays DnD

Why am I not surprised
>>
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>>5722443
doesnt look like an animal but transforms into one.
>>
>>5722467

No kits of the gundam beast stuff that I know of.

One of the SEED Gundams turned into a dog. Gaia, I think?
>>
Black or Grey panel-lining for the Kshatriya?
>>
>>5722480
Neither, dark green.
>>
>>5722484
I have the panel line accent colors, but not material to make my own.
>>
For those who feel like you have built all the kits you really want. Just buy whatever new kits that looks interesting? (looking at you gyan)

>>5722416
Huh. That's a great idea.

>>5722486
Grey then. Black panel line always seem a bit too much unless that's what you are looking for.
>>
>>5722374
>>5722376
I see someone else has read/watched School Shock
>>
>>5722788
>School Shock
Nope never heard of it, but a quick google guarantees I will be now, thanks.
>>
>>5722480
Maybe do some of the major lines in black and the smaller ones in grey
>>
>>5723138
Dont do it in black, it doesnt fit the green at all.

If you can find a very faint grey, it would be better. Dont use anything dark, even dark green.

Better yet, get some sandpaper, a pencil/pencil lead and brush the dust into the grooves.
>>
>>5723275
Pencil lead is a good idea, he should definitely try that before making another decision.
>>
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What do you guys use to remove excess panel line wash on top of future? Been having s bit of trouble cleansing up without removing paint.pic related. First airbrush/painted kit.
>>
>>5723285
small amount of thinner on a cotton swab
>>
>>5723333
Was doing that with Tamiya thinner, but it ate away at the paint. Should I water it down?
>>
>>5723337
What kind of paint and wash are you using? How long did you wait after painting before putting on the Future topcoat, and then putting the wash on it?
>>
>>5723338
Vallejo is the paint. Sometimes I would wait either a few hours to 12 hours before putting the Future coat. And then about 4 days before the wash.
>>
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>>5722404
SF91 kits are glorious, i still need to hunt down a RXF-91 Kai.
>>
>>5723337

sure.

i usually just wipe some of the thinner off with a paper towel before using the swab
>>
>>5723285
Your panel line wash is most likely enamel-based. Using Tamiya thinner, a thinner for acrylics, is naturally going to eat away at your acrylic gloss coat and the acrylic Vallejo beneath it. Use an enamel thinner or lighter fluid to remove excess panel line wash.

Another possibility is that while you may have waited 4 days before the Future, you did not apply enough of it. This is something I've messed up a bunch with using a lacquer gloss coat since it's hard to notice so that's something else to think about.
>>
>>5723285
If you're using the Tamiya panel line stuff, you need some lighter fluid. Let the panel line dry, then soak a cotton bud in Zippo fluid or something and you can lightly wipe away the marks with ease.
>>
I'm painfully new to Gunpla, started January 2016, built 1NG 2 HGs 3 RGs and 10MGs. What i've found is that there's an absolute lack of Waterslides out there. You guys have any ideas of making your own?
>>
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>>5723352
That thing looks like a GM version of the Nu and that makes my dick rock hard.
>>
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Aside from making my own, is there any way I could get one of these sweet looking shields for my nazi robot?
>>
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>>5723370
never thought of it that way but i kind of see it now. the yellow thrusters really make it pop even if they were a pain to paint on.
>>
>>5723395
Fairly sure that thats the GM Command shield.
>>
>>5723398
Guess that solves that mystery, thanks anon
>>
>>5723360
I think I need to do an extra coat of future and let it cure a bit more. It's been a bit humid lately so it might not have dried enough.
>>5723364
Thanks, I'll pick some up I forgot about that method.
>>
>>5723365
Someone in the last thread mentioned how Amiami has put up a lot of decals recently, mostly older ones that were hard to buy anymore. Might be worth a look.
>>
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Finished my first paint job ever. I screwed up on the chest with the red and black, but I learned my lesson and used different paint for hand painting so I could clean up.

Pretty happy with it.
>>
>>5723398
>>5723400

It's not the GM Command shield. It kiiiinda looks like it, but it's not. If you want one that's accurate to the pic, you'll probably have to scratchbuild your own, maybe using the GM Command shield as a base.
>>
>>5723478
nice blogpost.

now go back to r/gunpla
>>
>>5723532

that hardly qualifies as a blog post. now go back to the bridge you crawled out from under

>>5723478

looks decent. turn those arms to face the right way though.
>>
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So I finally got myself a boat and took a peek at the parts

>long, thin photoetch rigging
>tiny flags attached on tiny sprues

Am I seriously not expected to fuck this up

Also the U-boat type VIIC/41 has freaking 'funnels'. Think a submarine with two midget submarines attached on the deck and equipped with torpedos about as big as themselves. Really cool stuff.
>>
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>>5723789
>1/350
>babby tier PE
it's fucking nothing m8

do read up on how to cut and bend PE before you start though
>>
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>>5723827
Its a 1/350 Uboat so its still really tiny(for me).

Also what in the fresh hell is that PE for
>>
>>5723850
rigging?

>dat shark-themed mini-boat tho
>>
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>>5723852
I meant the AA gun, which kit it was for.

How do you feel about TWO shark-themed mini-boats?
>>
>>5723852
That's an odd thing to have PE for.

I usually just use black sewing thread for rigging.
>>
>>5723871
>How do you feel about TWO shark-themed mini-boats
kawaii

AA gun is for 1/350 USS Indianapolis I believe
>>
New thread: >>5723907
>>
>>5723478
Pretty good, aside from the details you mentioned. The magazines looks a bit empty in comparison though.
>>
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>>5723850
1/350? thats it?
>>
Hey so any1 here has any guide or videos or anything on what to do with spare runners? Something like making new shit or any cool ideas?
>>
>>5713974

Fuck you Exia MG!
>>
>>5714568

Those are not bricks of plastic, they are a melted Sazabi, a melted Tallgesse, a metled The O, a melted ZII and a melted Ez8.
>>
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>>5723478
>told to fix details in last thread
>posts again without fixing

That's a spicy meme anon. You've already gotten your advice. It's time to stop posting and work on the actual kit.
>>
>>5714583
Because they're fucking shit
>>
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Gonna do this pair in gunpla form, already picked Gusion for Smough, who should be Ornstein? Right now I have my eyes on Kimaris or Graze Rittar armed with lance option part.
Thread posts: 325
Thread images: 71


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