WIP - Work In Progress General

New painter here. I had no idea what "highlighting" meant (thought it was like washing) and so I ended up completely covering a model's black basecoat with Eishin Grey.

Would it fuck up the model to re-apply the black basecoat and then highlight it properly?

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Guess one layer of wash is not enough here.

>>54477308
if the coats were thin, it should be fine

Gold could use a little highlight to make it pop.

Hey guys, any idea where i could find some good instructional materials for how to green stuff cloth. Specifically tabards?

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>>54477282
Made a robo-old Carnosaur.

Any suggestions welcome, although it's mostly (I hope) done by now.

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>>54477503

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>>54477523

>>54477367
This >>54477462

>>54477489
Nothing comes to mind, I've never had to do it. But try looking at the Dark Angels models and just replicating what you see there?

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Kill meee

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Hey guys, getting some scions for my guard. Got 3 questions.
Should I go for a scheme that is similar to my regular scheme or go different? (Pic related)
Any ideas for schemes and colourpalettes?
Berets or covered heads?

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Update on my tac marines from a few threads ago. I've now painted my first ever face, following tips from Dunc and /wip/. I'm not a good enough painter to do pupils in the eyes, so I just did white with a light wash over it to reduce "crazy eyes" look.
Followed the feedback from one of the anons in the last thread, I decided to give my sarge a red cloak to make sure the squad doesn't get too monotone/dull.
Again, pls no bully, it's the first unitive painted since I dunked a few models in paint as a six year old kid.

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>>54478434
>First unit
>Miles better than any of mine
Servitor, get me a glass of amasec and a shotgun.

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Here i painted up my silver tower tzaangors and im finished if i havent overseen a detail

what do you guys think? and yes bases will be done once i painted all of the silver tower so i can do it in one swoop

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5th company captain to stand by the devastators and yell at them to stop overheating

Has anyone units of primaris the recently released rubrics and deathguard lying around?

i´d like to know how they all hold up heigth-wise, maybe a OG marine too?

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First miniature after years of not painting

Not finished, about half way.

I am aiming at cleanness, not at super detail, so in the future I can comission someone to highlight my whole army or maybe do it myself.

The bolter and knife are not done

>>54479183
Nice

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Finally getting round to painting some DG. Kind of a test model. All the armour and rust is going to be oil washed and grimed up a little, but the basic colours are staying the same, base is unfinished too. I need opinions on gun colour schemes though, mainly just for the side panel, coil and plasma barrel.

>>54479183
Looks pretty clean, well done.

>>54478364
Similar scheme with some extra colours added in, reds and gold's or something to set them above the rest. Covered heads.

>>54478364

Go with shiny black and gold with dark red accents, it will contrast more while being in line with what you have

Going to start painting some plague marines from the dark imperium box soon, I'm thinking about a red colour scheme for them? Think I'm in danger of getting loads of snarky "oh are they khorne?" remarks or is it possible to pull off painting god specific troops in an unconventional way?

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>>54479500
You'll get comments like that even here, but red play marines are a thing and I half wish I'd done them.

>>54479500

It will work perfectly fine, but you have to work on the things that arent armor.

Go with an intense dark red and light green / light white flesh tome for the meat and they'll look great

>>54478486
I mean I can't say how true that is one way or the other workout seeing yours, but thanks.

I spend an embarrassing amount of time per mini, painting them completely disassembled, and covering fucking numerous mistakes per piece. I am not a natural.

>>54479500
you just need to make them specifically nurgly. rust, pus and gross skin, general decay, and heavily weathered armor. the colors don't matter as long as you enjoy it.

>>54479321
It should be a neutral colour. I'd go for black, like on his armour's trim.

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Conversion bitz get. Time to have some fun.
Techmarine I was bidding on shot up in price though. He went from under $5 to over $20 and there's still time for it to go even higher. Damn shame too, he was a cool metal lad from the Rogue Trader days. If only it was Buy It Now like some the dude's other auctions.

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>>54477282
Alright /wip/ general -
I am working on a guard/inquisition task force and want to supplement my troopers with a big swarm of arco-flagellants or servitors.
I have been considering conversion as I have a small amount of mechanicus and guard bits, and saw some really neat work online (pic related) BUT I am a total novice at conversions and, as i have only recently started after a very long break, am relatively light on tools, resources and experience.

How do you do conversions?
Where do you get the little grey bits of non-GW parts that often are in these pictures?
How are cables done?
Is non-liquid green stuff a good choice?

>>54478434
looks bloody brilliant mate

>>54480084
Many of those bits are Forge World or from other casters such as Pig Iron
The main thing I've heard of for cables is piano wire

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Rate my Raptors primaris marine. Not sure whether or not to paint the shoulder trim/helmets gunmetal on the veterans and sargeants.

>>54480199
dope

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>>54480199
>>54480205
Finished the standard bearer (ancient or whatever) last night as well.

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A test model for my blood angels successors. How did I do? What color should I paint the bolter?

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Noob painter here, please teach me how to do highlights WIP. I should paint a layer paint of slightly lighter shade over parts of a washed base paint, right? Which parts exactly? Just the elevated ones? Middle ones? Corners?

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>>54480275
Black is probably best for the bolter.
You can use blue tac or something to dryfit the bolter when you're assembling the models, it'll let you have full access to the chest to paint.

Color choice wise, I've never been a fan of alternating bits in different colors. I'd say you definitely shouldn't do the boot sections in different colors.

>>54480319
Most people mean edge highlighting when they're talking about highlights.
Get a fairly small brush, and trace your way around sections of armor using a lighter shade of the base color. Look here >>54478434
for a good example.

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Daemonettes with some hair now. I actually liked the hair on two heads, so I kept them.

>>54480084
For cables another option are guitar strings, you can also fashion your own with gs and the right tool.
Yes, gs or another modeling mass is worth it.
If you don't have a good idea on what the finished model is supposed to look like, you may end up with a clusterfuck of things on it, that looked good at the time. So the first step to converting should be planning how you will do it, and if you can do it that way.

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What do you think guys? I got a whole bunch of really nice quality movement trays (Warhammer Fantasy player here!). I want to flock 'em up and make 'em look comparable to the rest of my army, so would you recommend priming the entire tray? Also should you put flock down on the entire tray, or just the edges? I don't want to have wobbly models, so I"m assuming just the edges should be painted and flocked?

>>54479183
Very sharp and clean.. maybe a bit *too* clean! Looks great though

>>54480541
yea, doing the inside is pointless and like you said you run the risk of the models not balancing properly

>>54480541
>would you recommend priming the entire tray?
yes

Typically I paint the inside of a movement tray with the same colour as the base edges. If black, leave black. If brown, paint brown. and so on.

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>>54480576
Cool, in that case, makes my job a lot easier.

>>54480624
Thanks, yea what I'll do is prime/paint the entire base grey, then just paint the edges green/brown. Then flock the edges and add rocks, etc..

What I am going to flock entirely though is the two trays I got for my dual trebuchets. I want to make them more into 'scenary' pieces. So I'm putting them on their own trays with the crew they come with, plus some rocks and other small scenic bits. Maybe some fallen lances, or helms of knights, pieces of broken building etc...

What happened with the guy that said he was making a Primaris Jhonny?

>>54480693
he posted it yesterday, check the previous thread

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>have water in a mug
>make a cup of tea while I paint
>accidentally take a swig of my paint water

>>54480754
one of us, one of us

>>54480754
my paint water cup is a disgusting yellow, so I never make that mistake

How's your weekend been guys? I got another squad of gaunts done and built my tervigon. I'm gonna need to do a supply run today though.

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>>54480754

>>54480804
Got a unit of flamers and a unit of screamers done and then played a game now i'm aiming to finish up my horrific hellbrute

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>>54480804
Not bad! Thanks for asking :) What about yours? I envy you and your time to built so many models. lol, I just put the finishing wraps on my grail knights, and it took me literally like 4 months. I'm doing the movement trays today probably.

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>>54480788
Depends on how strong you like your brew.

>>54480754
I can't count the times when I *almost* did the same, but I've always stopped myself in last second

>>54480804
Primed a bunch of terminators and half a necron force. Can't get the black spray off my hand. Looks like I've been fingering a goth girl.

>>54480850
On Friday I built models for 5 hours straight and just assembly lined the gaunts yesterday. It looks like I'm getting faster since my first gaunt unit took two weeks of off and on painting.

>>54480788
I wasn't looking, just picked it up off the counter by the handle and had a swig

>>54480804
sat staring at my backlog hoping it would magically paint itself, it did not.

>>54480909
>>54480882
>>54480864
>>54480807
>>54480754
I just never drink from a mug at the table.

>>54480804
Horrid. I had to entertain and interact with people because it was my birthday, when I just wanted to be a hermit and paint.

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>>54480887
>Can't get the black spray off my hand.

Yer not usin' da right tool, m8!

>>54480920
Are you ok anon? Are you having fun?

>>54480942
I spent the weekend house sitting my parents place. Haven't even seen a person since Friday. Just me and my nids.

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>>54480804
>How's your weekend been guys?

We have been entertaining my young daughter's friend for the last three days; her mom is a police officer who works odd shifts and her father was out of town, so she's been staying with us. They only wanted to do giggly-girly fingz (they're only 11), so we haven't done much outside of the house - no Friday night fireworks, no Hurricane Harbor, no cinema - but the friend went home last night and my daughter expressed interest in going with me to GW today.

Plus, I opened the "thank you" card from the friend's parents, and there was $100 in it ... so that was a nice bonus!

>>54480920
>>54480949

Heh, I'm not him, but I feel the same way sometimes. Honestly I'm ghastly slow at painting, plus I have other hobbies, so I don't feel like 'pressured' to finish.

Try to find another hobby anon to supplement your Warhammer, so you can bounce back and forth and not focus on just 40k or fantasy

>>54481058
OMG that is the most precious thing I've ever seen on here... good on you!

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>>54480199
>>54480268
A little drab for my taste, but really well executed.
What company do you run?

March on for Issodon!

>>54479183
GORGEOUS

>>54481058
c-cute

>>54478515
Why did you color only the top parts of his chest strap thing? It looks like he's wearing a big gold chain. Is he a pimp?

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Next model I have gotten done for my Necrons. The blue armor could of been neater but I at least really understand now how to make a solid green effect.

C and C appreciated.

>>54481225
THIN

>>54481058
Someone needs to teach her some trigger finger discipline.

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I'm starting to glue my Primaris Space marines and I'm not sure if i should glue the weapon on the model before painting or after What can you guys recommend me for somebody who doesn't have that much experience in painting models.

>>54481294
Might just be my personal taste, but the silver metal parts seem a bit too dark, as if you just shaded them and left out any highlighting.
Other than, that, absolutely lovely. Very clean and crisp paintjob with a neat color scheme.

>>54481294
Beautiful!

>>54481225
thin yer paint boi

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>paint on sprue for the first time
Holy shit this is so much better

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>>54481323
>>54481359
You guys talking about the shit on the helmet? That's part of the metal casting, not paint buildup

>>54481390
Until you clip the parts off and notice the unpainted nubs. Sometimes worth it anyway, but it's situational.

>>54481390
I do that for heads, otherwise it's just asking for trouble with having to tidy up

>>54481328
after.

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Primaris wip. Has anyone else found painting them way more of a chore than the previous SM models? So many armour plates, bigger model. Way too much highlighting to do!

>want to start painting some models
>need some new paints
>game stores closed on Sundays
>only days of are sunday

:(

>>54481459
Woah, how'd you do that pattern on the rightmost marine's shin?

>>54480116
>>54480414
Thank you lads, guess I've been making progress after all! I'll post when the model is finished.

>>54478515
Holy shit that combi-weapon is badass, where'd you get it?

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>>54478516

>>54481501
Paint set of parallel lines at an angle across the shinguard in the highlight colour, then come in and cross over them at another angle to form the diamonds. Fill in with solid colour. Highlight bottom and glaze top with base colour

>>54481459
I suppose the benefit is you need to paint less of them, but yeah. Mk4 helmets are also the most tedious style of helmet to highlight, with that fiddly mouth area.

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>>54481405
My skin is a base and wash so I'll be able to paint all the inner bits and get it as a final step

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>>54481390

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Finally finished idiot bots for 2,500pts game

>>54481996
beep boop/10

No unit markings, though? If you're making an army that large, might as well add in some proper 'tism.

>>54481996
that's a lot of kinder surprise bots

>>54480754
I use an upended Pepsi can as a palette whilst also drinking a can of Pepsi, I've taken a sip of watery acrylics before expecting a delicious caffeine hit many times

>>54482064
just make a wet palette at this point. You won't regret it!

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>Shake pot of paint
>It wasn't quite closed

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>>54481996
also BEEP POOP finished

>>54481403
oh? in that case, FILE YOUR MODELS

>>54482087
I keep meaning to try it but I can't really see the point, I don't do a lot of colour mixing and I don't really mind my paints drying out after a while.

>>54481996

I've since come back from about a 5 year break and these things look like the least warhammer-like models i've ever seen

>>54482144
GW going for that mech audience who aren't weebs

>>54482202

Isn't that what the various Dreads are for

>>54481403
looks good.

when weathering aircraft its always good to have exhaust stains streak back. and maybe some powder burns near rocket pods.
then again these are details that are comparable to mud, rust or grime streaks on tanks, so if you only did the chipped paint weathering on your vehicles i wouldn't worry so much about the exhaust stains.

I just say this because of ww2 model airplane autism from way back when.

>>54481996

Amazing! Any closeups?

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anyone got advice on how to get really good at freehanding shit like pic related?

I got 2 tac squads and a dread I wanna do

Black or White primer for Salamanders?

>>54482307
custom decals, all you need is some decal paper and a normal printer
>>54482318
White

>>54480864
>Yorkie Gold
You are full of finetaste and I want you to know that.

>>54482331
sweet
thats nice to know that a normal printer can do that

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>>54482305
Big pic for you

>>54482384
color laser print is better than inkjet for making decal

>>54482307
Practice

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>going back to metal minis
Torture

>>54482307
the same way you get good at anything — repeat the same thing over and over

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>>54482430
good to know. Now I gotta figure out what kind I have access to and order some of those transfer papers.

>>54482465
(you)

>>54481510
scratch built out of a spare phobos bolter and combi-plasma

>>54482384
>>54482430
Whilst laser is better I've had good experiences with inkjet when just making simple shapes and larger decals (skulls, numbers etc.).

One option I've done in the past is print off a high quality copy of the decals onto regular paper with my inkjet, gone to a local copying shop and had them photocopy the decals onto my decal paper with their laser at the highest DPI.

Is there any particular reason metallic paints are such a pain in the arse? I have used several brands and all the metallics have been blobby and hard to get even coverage with compared to normal paint.

>>54482525
>(you)
You asked how to get good at freehanding decals. Freehanding in this contest means painting your own directly onto the minuature. This requires practice to get good at.

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>>54482576
how do you get the sizing just right for the shoulder pads? I might try this with my red scorpions too if I can get it to work reliably
tho I do know forge world sells decal sheets for them

>>54482599
It's to do with the pigment, metallica colours are literally metallic and that's why they are blobby as fuck compared to solid pigments.
The best results I've had have been with the Mr Hobby Gunze Aqueous Metallics. They're kind of like Tamiya paints but aren't shit

>>54482618
Literally measure it is the best way, paint the outline of area on a shoulderpad you want to the decal on and then measure it with a tape measure.
You'll probably only get an area of about 10mmx10mm, the size within that is what you can comfortably fit. Any major image editor should give the real measurements, I know Photoshop does.
It takes a little finessing but once it's done it's done.

If you can get a sheet of the Red Scorpions decals then it does this job for you, just use those dimensions

>>54482507
i know

i painted up some old metal pathfinders recently

>paint chips before i'm even done painting it.
and yes i did wash them before painting.

>>54482307
First, learn to draw a tiny skull on paper. Then, learn to draw the same tiny skull many times on paper. Then, paint that same skull on a shoulder pad.

>>54480850
Those are really nice.

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>>54482525
How about use this imag? just add 'I' mark to skull and done!

>>54482749
i'd add a step of learning to paint a skull on paper with a brush. and then paint it on the shoulder pad

>>54482865
not that Anon but this is a cool resource, saved

>>54482678
Thanks.

On the subject, is there a bronze paint that is actually bronze? The Army Painter and Vallejo ones look more like pure copper.

>>54482865
got the rest of this set somewhere?

>>54482970
Vallejo Model Color 175 is pretty good for Bronze, it's a little dark so as long as a highlight is put on it'll be fine

>>54483022
Speaking of which, what is a good highlight for metallic paints? Just use a lighter color metallic?

So if I'm painting silver armor, would I base it with a dark plate mail color, then highlight it with like a 'shining silver' type metallic color?

>>54483143
Pretty much yeah, in my experience you'd go from something like Gun Metal to Chrome plus a fine highlight of silver. That way you should get a good gradient, washes are your friend with metallics too. Chrome with a black/dark brown wash in the deepest creases will replicate shadow well but keep the metallic shine

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Still working on this guy. Need to still do the gems, and move him from my working base to a real base. (Also need to figure out how to base him...)

>>54483280
Wow, this model looks so top heavy. It looks a bit weird, like the proportions are out of whack..

>>54483280
nice work on the blonde hair, always had trouble with it myself so stuck with brown

>>54483340
Maybe it's because of Geigor's big hair and backpack pole with all the baubles on it? Combined with the running forward stance that minimizes his feet. Or maybe the Space Wolves just skipped leg day.

>>54483343
Thanks. The first time I did it on another head I used yellows and people didn't like it. This time I used a bone colour and then slightly glazed it yellow after the wash and highlights.

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My new toy is almost assembled (I'm gonna build up and magnetize da arms), and I had a spare moment to play with basing trash I had around.

I - two choppas in drednaught hull, and grot pulling out some cables.
II - one choppa and grot, so you can see grot better
III - grot dragging multimelta arm
last one - rekt drednaught, probably full of holes after shootas canonade, and maybe one big hole after taking hit form kustom mega blasta or something like this.

Which one you like better?

>>54483573
I like the multi-melta grot best, you don't want too much going or it'll overwhelm your viewer

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>>54483280
>VERY fast doggo running at incredible hihg speed

>>54483623
>when you hear someone shitposting about Russ

>>54483623
>When you hear someone blowing a dogwhistle

Does anyone have a good tutorial on how to do these diamond-shaped gems? All the gem tutorials I've found are usually the rounded ones about spirit-stones, eye-lenses, and portholes.

>>54483652
>>54483623
Oh dear.

>>54482749
>>54482877
>>54482865
>>54482736
Thank you friends
This has all been very helpful advice

>>54483787
Masking tape is the only thing I could recommend, you can use the Tamiya tape but regular painters tape for painting walls is just as good (and cheaper)

>>54479183

Fuck yeah hawk lords

I want to get started painting but is there any cheaper brush options that dont cost 50$?

>>54483887
amazon dot com

>>54483887
I bought a 7 dollar back from a local craft store of basic brushes. As long as you care for them well they should maintain enough of a point to do detail work and have a variety of sizes in a single purchase.

When you want to get a nice brush you can get one of the Windsor Newton small sizes as a starter to learn how to care for them

>>54483887
as long as they are synthetic then you should be fine for the time being. I can recommed Winsor and Newton "university" brushes for something a step-up.

>>54483887
My FLGS carries brushes from cheap synthetics for $3-$4 to Kolinsky Sable for sub-$20. My W&N Series 7 cost me $17 and I can't imagine needing a better brush. What the heck are you looking at that costs $50? (All prices in Canadian)

To be very honest when you're starting out just get a size 1 or 2 round that can form a decent tip and you're good.

>>54483830
I have some masking fluid, could I use that?

>>54481225

I like the helm, really lifts the model for me. But you need to thin your paints as anon´s before me have suggested.

>>54478364
I've painted mine with normal Catan armor and fatigues while adding on gold and red where appropriate. It's a good look! I think just the little touches help them stand out while not looking like they're out of place.

>>54483963
You'll really struggle to get a sharp demarcation line with masking fluid, that said if you can then go ahead it'll be the same

>>54480454
>>54480122
Thanks guys, am gomna go hunting for components. Wish me luck!

>>54482743
I have those same pathfinders that also chip wtf

>>54480804
Helped one of my mates glue together his 500 point Tau list to go up against my 500 points of Space Marines, so that was fun. Only two and a half models left to paint for mine.

>>54482144

You obviously wasn't alive during the 80´s sci-fi highlights then I take it? Because GW was, and they are bringing it back.

>>54480268
>>54480199
amazing stuff mate
really love the basing too

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working on my board, not completly satisfied with the foundations, should i make them brighter?

>>54480864
>Yorkshire Gold

Good shout.

>>54484046
looks ace to me mate

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>>54483787
Luckily I have the Burning of Prospero painting guide, and doth provide

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>>54482144
They're not very gothic, but I still love the Gatos

>>54484063
Cheers!

>>54480319

You want highlights and post a perfect picture for it as well.
See that potato, and watch how the shade turns the bottom part a darker shade of the same color that's on top of the potato. This is highlighting.
Go watch some Duncan over at WarhammerTV, they have great films showing you what you want to learn, including edge highlights that >>54480414 talks about.

In the end, its all about creating a good looking miniature, be it realism or extreme contrast, its all about personal taste.

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I think I've finally found a color I like for my lasguns, just wanted another opinion

>>54484126
looks great!

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>>54480199

>>54484126
I've been doing them in light brown too but that's more because of the Praetorian theme

>>54484126
I like it, the gun itself could use a bit o' highlighting I suppose. Brown/leather to me is a bit hard cause it always looks a bit "flat", plus you have a lot of leathery brown in this unit it looks like, so maybe give their guns a tad of a brighter color to make it 'pop' more? Otherway, looks really good mate!

>>54480754
Oh shit buddy nice knowing you.
Press F

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>>54482089
>shake a pot of shade
>the lid comes loose

>>54484143
>>54484169
Cool, I'll stick with it.

>>54484268
Well I just graduated past basic basing and washing, and I can't steady my hands enough for highlighting yet. I could try giving one a wash of carroburg crimson to see if it gives me a cherry wood look, or just a redder brown.

>>54484407
Yea try the wash, the cherry wood effect could come off really well

>>54484407
A cool technique I used on wooden propellord before is to add faint streaks across the wood, beiges, dark browns and even some dark reds and then apply a brown wash over the top to tie it all together. It's really tricky to do right though

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>scout around eBay
>find some old metals
Neato, let's take a lo-
>that price
Holy shitballs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-Mordheim-Nurgle-Carnival-Of-Chaos-CIRCUS-CHAMPION-2-RARE-VERSION-G-614-/302272951022?hash=item4660df32ee:g:SzMAAOSwealY43ls

Is it just me or does drybrushing AND edge highlighting look great together?

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what colour should i do the power cable going to the guns?

>>54484527

Rule of thumb while on eBay, anything with an ID tag in the photo is usually selling for far more than what it's worth.

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>>54484568
It's how i've been painting my DA and i'm happy with the results. Is the edge highlight too subtle?

>>54484675
Dark blue or green would probably look nice

>>54484678
Nah. Anything with an ID tag was just put in by a professional that need to keep track of inventory.
It may well be that some shops overcharge, but that is kind of like saying 'anything that was photographed on a kitchen table is gonna take forever to ship'.

Some people just like to charge obscene amounts for OOP minis because they can. And as long as they don't have competition they can sit on it for as longs as somebody shows up willing to buy it.

>>54484685
Not in my opinion. But then again, I don't like going overly crazy with edge highlights anyway.

>>54484685
looks great, nice conversions

>>54484685
Perfect on the first two, too subtle on the third, I'm guessing his highlights aren't done.

I'd add a bit more to his right pad and chest.

Looking great though.

>>54478490

As a new painter these are inspirational

>>54484733
so like Mccrage maybe? or thousand sons?

>>54484685
That red is fucking beautiful. How do?

>>54484849
mephiston red and wash with nuln oil gloss.

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DI Captain nearing completion.
I assembled him like an idiot, so there was a minor struggle while I pried him apart slowly so I didn't break anything.

Stepping back into the hobby after a long break, I've got a pile of dark eldar models from like 8 years ago that I want to start painting.

Not sure how to take care of brushes. Years ago, the tips would always start fraying really fast, any way I can prevent that?

How do I actually transition a brush from one color to a different one? Like if I'm painting red and want to start painting a different color without mixing. Teenage me would try to wash the brush but late 20's me thinks that guy was a fucking moron.

Anyone have a link to some galleries of dark eldar I can look at? Google keeps showing me the same two or three and all the GW schemes look kinda samey to me.

>>54484910
that looks fantastic and at the same time disheartening because ill never reach that level

What's the best basecoat for black armor? everyone tells me not to use abaddon black so what the fuck do i do?

>>54478364
Light grey or white would look intresting.

>>54484938
Washing your brushes with soap and water after you're done painting will help extend their life. Also avoid paint drying to the base of the brush. Usually just twirling the brush around on a cup of water abd wiping it dry on a paper towel is enough when changing colors.

>>54484944
Maybe a 50/50 mix of abaddon and eshin?

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>>54480754
ONE OF US, ONE OF US

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What do my fellow Ork players do to proxy in Bomb Squigs

>>54484939
You will! Not that guy, but it's amazing how much you can learn over time. Just being patient works wonders. If you've ever watched Duncan's tutorial vids his sort of painting approach (Basecoat, wash, layer, highlight) can be applied to every single model in existence, and will give the same sort of results, provided you pick appropriate colours. The rest is just practice.

>>54484944
You want to use a very dark grey, I don't use GW paints but whenever I need to paint black I always paint it Vallejo 168 "Black Grey"

>>54480754
>have water in a cup
>have tea in a mug
>drink tea
>paint model
>wash paintbrush in tea
>drink tea again

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>>54484944
I would still start at pure black. The usual approach I see is to do some subtle blending with blue-blacks or gray-blacks like mixes of Dark Reaper or Eshin Gray with Abaddon Black.

>>54485164
If you're using GW paints you need to mix up something between Eshin Gray and Abaddon Black to achieve this colour. I like a 1:1 mix of those paints.

>>54485152
Yeah, it really is just about time and practise. I keep around a picture of my first models to remind myself that even though I'm not a good painter I've still improved.

>>54484944
Abbaddon Black is fucking awful. Go online and buy the vallejo/army painter blacks, way better coverage. I'm a fan of using FW corvus black as a base coat, covered with Nuln oil it looks fab. It says airbrush paint but i find it covers just fine
https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-IE/Forge-World-Airbrush-Paint

>>54485217
is this true? I remember that back in the day Chaos Black was actually one of the few really good blacks on the market. I wonder what changed

>>54485176
So did the tea water make a good wash?

>>54485236
the reformulated version is awful.

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Me again plan on painting the power cables possibly thousand sons or mccrage blue still

not sure what else needs painting

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>>54480850

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Okay wip, I need help. How would you convert a storm surge into a chaos engine?

>>54485690
lots of spikes

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>>54485628
holy crap my normal camera sucks compared to my phone, sorry guys

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Decided to make a custom character for DeathWatch campaigns a while ago and finally got around to painting him. I like how the left arm came out but his chapter shoulder came out too thick and messy. Been getting better at edge highlighting but still having trouble with it.

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>>54485872

>>54485847
the pipes on the helmet I would paint a different colour to red just to give it some more contrast but otherwise I think it's all good

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i mocked up the passenger compartiment on my limo tonight. scaling down kits is a bit confusing i was constantly doubting the whole thing would be to big, but now it has it more or less final shape it compares nicely to my other limo and the genestealer

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>>54485895

when painters water down a paint so it becomes a wash how much water to paint would that be? 1 part paint to 5 water? for example

>>54485923
depends on the paint consistency but usually I'd say 2:1. 5:1 would be way too watery and you'd have to put a million coats on

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>>54485907
and front view, not sure to do with the grill yet

>>54485965
oh ok, mainly because i saw a guide saying he used mechanicus grey watered down to use as a wash for the recesses

>>54486001
I'd say experiment with it, problem you have is if you over thin it with water it not only gets too translucent but you'll find it won't settle well as other washes.

2:1 is a good place to start anyway

>>54485923
use lahmian medium if you ahve some, it's perfect wash consistency. Just put some on a palette and stir your wash colour in, boom, instant wash.

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>>54484407
Tried the carroburg wash on the right, not to bad

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>>54486048
ok, thanks for the help

>>54484685
Drill your barrels, get a dremel or pin vise.

>>54486071
Wow! that's a major improvement anon. Good job, I hope you like the result, I would really use that for the rest of the lasguns..

>>54485905
would leadbelcher work?
or maybe runefang?

>>54486149
I probably will, it's closer to what I was originally going for. Wish I could find some las-garands, but this works

>>54486217
Leadbelcher would be perfect I think

>>54481058
Get that girl some Fleur de Lis emblazoned armour, m'lad!

For painting an Enclaves crisis suit, so red primarily with some metallics here and there and a few other colours like a gray.
What washes should I use? Nuln oil on stuff like leadbelcher I am aware of, what else?

>>54486271
>Las-garands
ooh baby

>>54481225
Ah man, did you cut off that guy's awesome power mace?

I know it's been meh since they seperated the power weapons, but it was such a great looking piece.

>>54484062
thanks!

>>54486330
The dude actually came into my possession with a fucking combiflamer crudely superglued where the mace had been cut off (with the rest of the mace's handle still intact). I did my best to restore it into something cool.

>>54482307
IIRC there are pads with molded skulls (if not check thrid party) and the rest shouldn't be too hard with a steady hand.

I want to out my citadel air paints into different bottles because having that in a pot is silly imo
I see lots of people online making it out to be this complicated process, and they are all using various ball bearings/bolts as agitators in their new dropper bottles.
There's no agitators in the pot, so why would I need that in the dropper bottles? Is it because there's more open space in the pot comparitively?

>>54486562
just get vallejo style pots and pour it in, they're just being a little 'tistic about it.

>>54482507
Fuck Spartan Games

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>>54486656
Wanna talk about it bud

>>54481225
What's that model?

>>54486676
Naaah it's cool. Just fuck 'em.

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>>54486694
OOP Metal Veteran with Power Maul.

I got it when it had already been through like 3 neglectful owners, one of whom cut the maul's head of and just superglued a combi flamer there. I tried to nicen it up. It fits with my theme of mildly converting my Sternguard SGTs. I still wish he had his maul and alternate combi plasma arm though..

>>54486562
i just bought a bag of 100 small steel nuts and popped one in each bottle. Does the job perfectly

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So I stripped my first pushfit travesties and tried some more exciting schemes now that my official dudes are ready. This one here is a Tiger Claw. How you like him? Also, now I understand why people bitch about black armour.

Also, is Chaos stuff, mainly demons fun to paint? I'd like to get some enemy dudes for my CC-focus marines and I want to have fun doing them. I don't find marines particularly fun models to paint.

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>>54486755
Which game hurt you

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Could someone recommend me a base for this Lord of Contagion? Preferably one of the pre-made resin/plastic bases would be nice if possible.

>>54486857

ehhh.... um... Keep trying man..

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>>54486278
done the pipes on all 3 of them, as well as the powerlines with thousand sons blue

>>54486883
Try one of the toxic bases, like he's killing everything around him. Would work for the other Death Guard too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=na26t36C7X4

>>54486865
Dystopian Empires, Dystopian Legions and Halo Fleet Battles. Cunts can't do anything properly.

>>54486926
Ohhhhhhh that will look great! Nice one anon, thanks.

>>54486904
tone it down a bit with some Nuln oil and then I think you're done

>>54486893
I'm kind of a starter, I'm through 1 squad and a venerable but which part is particularly that bad? I think he's cool. My camera is also quite shitty.

>>54486904
Personally, I oppose >>54486966

I think it looks great at full colour

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>>54480804
I finished my second batch of skitarii vanguard. Left one in pic is from the first batch. Very happy with the improvements!

Also managed to bend the antenna on the handheld of the new dude a minute after taking the picture...

>>54486975
Not him, but it looks pretty bad.
For starters, I'd drop that stripey camo shit til you at least know what you're doing.
Second, your black is REALLY flat, the whole model is. Try basecoating in a dark grey and washing with Nuln Oil so you get some color gradation.

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>>54482089
>>54484397
>not holding the lid while you shake.

>>54487025
Actually the stripes turned out just how I wanted them, but whatever. I've learnt my lesson with Abby black while painting this guy, yeah. Still,thanks for the feedback!

>>54487070
Even if it's how you wanted, the stripes still fuck your attempts at shading and make the mini look a mess.
additionally, your weathering (I assume that's what it is where I see those big flecks of silver) is inconsistent and poorly executed.

Your basing also looks really lazy.

Your biggest takeaways should be:
1. Learn how to paint inside the lines
2. Learn how to shade and edge highlight cleanly
3. Learn how to freehand/realistically weather
4. Learn how to base.

You're mini's basically failing in those 4 areas.

>>54481459
>those diamonds on the grave
Based anon, keep that shit up.

If those are BA and not part of a reserve company then I think their helmets should be blue? If it's yourdudes then party on, Wayne.

>>54487148
Thanks. I'll try these. Actually the 'weathering' is lighting, but I suck at that, yes. I think I'll switch to drybrushing.
This was just a quick fuckaround project though. I can get it better but it takes a lot of time.

>>54487008
Anon what do you use to gap fill on the coats? I do that step after assembly and realized I gave myself 40 new greenstuff problems after a couple boxes. It was a sad moment.

kek nostalgia
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Games-Workshop-RTB4-Rogue-Trader-Grav-Tank-Attack-Vehicle-OOP-RARE-Land-Speeder-/302392426583?hash=item4667fe4057:g:CwgAAOSw-0xYjUKv

>>54486857
I like the idea, it's a neat departure from just solid colored marines. Keep at it

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>>54482507
>paint one end of model
>rub it a few times
>new silverspot
Pewter reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

>>54487360
Wait a minute something doesn't seem right about that...

>>54479183
Id you can paint thin basecoats i cant imagine why you cant also paint a highlight.

Most people would find that easier than getting a good white on the shoulders.

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>>54487360
hnnnnnnnnnnnggggggg

>>54487284
nothing... the pic just happened to hide the lines perfectly.

I tried liquid green stuff once but didn't have the patience to deal with it. Maybe just gluing the seam then cleaning it up as if it were a mold line could work.

>>54486313

Would I nuln the rest or need to use another wash?

>>54487360
>>54487408
it is a roll on deoderant custom job

>>54487881
Yeah, we know.

>>54487852
>>54486313
you can use Nuln on the other stuff but just be careful as too much and it'll fuck up the recesses. The red ideally should have a carroburg crimson shade

>>54487906
Aight thanks, so don't buy into the skill in a bottle thing and apply it to everything

>>54487928
you can if you want but it'll really dull down your mini and you'll have to reapply some of the base coat on some of the raised areas. Just get a small amount and paint it directly into the recesses, it's easier to put another layer on than it is to take a layer off

>>54485141
By some old squibs off eBay and glue whatever grenades or bomb bits I have laying around on them

>>54487900
no we didnt

>>54487959
What do you think of Agrax Earthshade?

>>54488046
Well I sure as hell did, then again I posted it.

>>54485141
Raid the bitz box for some bombs and glue them to these guys: https://bitsofwar.com/home/143-gnaws.html

>>54488052
Earthshade will be fine, it'll just simulate dirt in the recesses rather than a darker shade of the actual colour

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Any suggestions?

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>>54482089

>Open pot
>lid keeps closing or won't stay open

Are the Primaris-Marines helmets the same size as Marines.

I want to swap out the Librarian's head, but not if he has shrunken head

>>54488136
I think you're good, just the base and decals to go

>>54480754

RIP anon

F

>>54488182
Identical. Do your thing anon.

>>54488191
thanks mate

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Ok so final phase for these, did some more drybrush highlights

>>54480850
Why do you have a cup of mould?

>>54488434
>Identifying Basing Materials
you failed this class

>>54481225
A little drab for my taste.
Have a look at one of my shitty paintjobs for comparison.

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>>54488434
>anon doesn't keep a cup of mould nearby

>>54488434
>not having some paint mould
you have much to learn young padawan

>>54488389
>mold lines
:(

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>>54477282
What would the best way to get a dark coral color be?

>>54488259
Thanks

>>54488712
get some Emperor's Children or Pink Horror and mix in some Eshin's Grey until you get the shade you want

>>54488651
yeah i know even though i went over them all they still seem to be showing up a lot with pictures

>>54480804
I finished my first set of dungeon tiles! I'm really excited to play with them in my DND campaign.

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If an Inceptor squad is 39 points and an assault bolter is 7 points, is that an extra 14 per model for a total of 81 for a group of 3 Inceptors?

>>54488890
Inceptors are 39 each, plus the 14 points for guns.

>>54485872
>>54485895
Highlights on his silver arm are a bit harsh, you should consider cleaning them up maybe.

>>54488925
but is that 14 for the entire group or 14 extra each?

>>54488925
And those aren't the right points values, but you get the gist of it. Points in the appendix are per model, and then you pay for wargear.

>>54488776
Thanks

>>54486503
You sir are good people.

And the dingus who owned it before you deserves the thickest of paints.

>>54488961
wait so these arent the exact points?

https://imgur.com/gallery/Sg1Ot

>>54488951
It's each. Models points costs now include nothing unless otherwise stated (such as in the case of characters), and you pay for each and every item they take.

>>54488989
Ah. The dark imperium book is completely wrong, to the point of giving people the wrong gear.

The price in the index is 45 points per model, and 15 points per gun. A unit runs 225 for 3 men.

>>54488949
Yeah, I noticed that too, I didn't feel like going back and cleaning it up at the time though so I might return to it another day.

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Every model I assemble/convert is just adding to my backlog of stuff to paint.

>>54485141
Squigs aren't difficult to make. Just sculpt around an extra ork head and add grot/gobo legs to it.

What are some neat things to do with Glazes? Like Guilliman Blue for example. Add a blue glow to a weapon or something?

>>54489274
I know how you feel. I have 30 models left, and just ordered a Stormhawk intercepted and stormtallon gunship to add to the backlog.

With Ork trukk conversions what model car/truck scale matches 40k vehicles the best? I know 40k is 28mm heroic scale but I can't find plastic trucks in that scale. Thanks for any help you guys give me.

>>54488890
What's up danegermouse92?

£80 + £2.50 P&P?? Are you out of your fucking mind?

>>54489434
Glazes are also good for adding color to a metallic. base with leadbelcher and glaze with a couple layers of blue and you have a blue metallic.

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>>54489474
1:35 scale is usually best for military vehicles. It's not perfect, but usually close enough to start from (especially with orks). Something like a tank in 1:35 will be as large or larger than 40k vehicles; while small vehicles like jeeps will be warbuggy sized..

Most civilian car/truck models are 1:24, though, which is too big for 40k purposes. I have a '57 Chevy model that I wanted to make into a mekboy junka, but the original model would be significantly longer and wider than a battlewagon. Still usable, but you'll either need to accept that the model might be superheavy-sized, or put work into cutting it down.

Found pic from dakkadakka, the Sherman on the left is 1:35, the Tiger on the right is 1:48.

>>54489474
28mm heroic is officially "1/56" but it is fine to use anything with 1/48. You might get away with a small truck in 1/35

>>54489474
28mm would roughly equate to 1/56, but heroics screw that up.
Weapons for 28mm are bigger than for 1:35 for example. As a rule of thumb I'd say small vehicles and open topped ones where you can see the cockpit or the seats or maybe even want to put crew in should be around 1:35. Larger vehicles and closed ones can be in 1:48.

You'll still get some screwy portions. Hatches, doorhandles and misc other details are gonna be much finer than on their 28mm counterparts.

For orks you don't have to be super careful about that stuff though, since you can just rip stuff out and jam new stuff in easily. So basically any 1:35 tank from a bargain bin with copious amounts of plastic card has potential for greatness.

Only think I'd watch out for are rubber tracks. If you can try to pick a kit with plastic tracks, cause it's gonna be a bit easier to paint.

>>54489556
I'm just going off of other prices on there, compared to time put in

what would you suggest?

>>54489732
Your time isn't relevant to what people want to pay because it isn't a commission. Even £40 is stretching. Primaris are a dime a dozen right now.

>>54489657
>>54489700
>>54489675
I wanted to try to make a Mad Max style trukk for the nobz, but I know that most car/truck models are 1:24 scale. Where should I look for 1:56 models?

>>54489997
Massive kit database I use regularly for my scale modelling needs:
https://www.scalemates.com/

>>54489997
Just use a 1:35 kit. It's gonna look fine.
1:56 is kind of a 'soft' scale since it's for gaming, i.e. it's not always perfect, but Bolt Action vehicles are in that style.
0 scale model railway models are also around 1:50.
Keep in mind though we are talking truescale 1:56/50 humans here. They are gonna look a bit small on orks.

Seriously though, if you are not sure about the scales just check out a few conversions using scale kits.

>>54489732
Yo should realize that your paintjob devalues the models.

>>54490105
THIS. People don't want to pay over the cost of plastic for models on ebay. If they wanted to pay those prices they would have commissioned the fuckers

>>54490017
>>54490095
Appreciate the advice, will post pictures of whatever I start to make.

>get second hand model
>arm glued halfway down the torso instead of shoulder

Poor guy is in the freezer now. What should I do if they've used plastic glue or epoxy?

>>54490287
you'll probably have to saw it off

>>54490313
Goddamn. He's a Death Jester so that's gonna be a bitch due to parts surrounding the arm.

>>54490351
if the person was retarded enough to glue it there he might have glued it badly even with the poly cement, freezer should make it brittle enough

>>54490389
How long should I leave it in the freezer? 30 mins?

>>54490372
It's meant to do that, now go over the flat areas with the basecoat avoiding the recesses where the Nuln Oil has gathered.

For future reference I never paint my whole mini with Nuln because of this, I just paint it directly onto the creases and recesses. Why GW recommends you cover it all I'll never know