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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 360
Thread images: 109

big beautiful coats

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k

>Previous Thread
>>53241276
>>
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Plz ignore the white primer spots I ran out of black and this thing sat for 3 years
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Someone can add to their OP post:

>bacgrounds for your miniatures' photos
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/05/photo-backgrounds.html
http://corvusminiatures.blogspot.com/2010/04/cloud-backdrops-for-your-miniature.html

or include it in lightbox part
>>
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I present, an Inquisitorial Stormtrooper, ready to help the Ordo Xenos in purging the alien!
>>
>>53276032
Is that a Forgeworld hazardous environment Cadian upgrade or did you mod that yourself for the regular kit?
>>
Anyone know of good tutorials or examples of figures painted in a very cartoon-like or cel shaded style?
>>
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Nother one just about done, trying out some texture paints for basing.
>>
>>53276328
Forgeworld, I wish I was resourceful enough to have modded it myself.
>>
>>53276328
It's the Forgeworld kit, I wish I was resourceful enough to have modded it myself though.
>>
>>53276328
It's the kit from Forgeworld, I wish my resourcefulness lets me mod it myself.
>>
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This is the firs time I'm on this board.

I used to collect Warhammer 40k Ultramarines 15 years or so ago, when I was 15 or something like that. Recently I've been hanging out with some people that still play it, and I've managed to find my old figurines.

They look fucking awful, I was so bad. The amount of pain on them is enough to paint 10x the number of figurines.

So now I'm taking off the paint with some Dettol.

I started with my 4 terminators and a single old plastic marine.

I'm actually thinking of remaking my old army as an Iron Hands one. I don't know if I'm being too ambitious, but Ultramarines don't sound very interesting any more.

I've already ordered some upgrade sets with heads, shoulder pads, and decals.
>>
>>53275826
It's not the worst model i've ever seen but I think the whole thing just looks sloppy. Just because it's nurgle isn't an excuse for it to look a mess.
the white spots make things worse, it's seriously not that hard to just do a decent basecoat over them and it would have looked so much nicer.
>>
>>53276956

I know painting a black-silver-white army is going to be hard to make look good, but I like the challenge.

And I also really dig their transhumanist fetish.

My old army consisted of:
1 captain
21 marines
5(6?) assault marines
4 terminators
1 dreadnought
1 rihno with a cannon
1 land speeder
2 bikes

I think I want to build an army which is based around dreadnoughts and terminators.

I just barely started reading Clan Raukaan.
>>
>>53276020
hey, neat
>>
Im going back to get them. I didnt have a way to spray a basecoat on and this thing was already assembled from 3 years ago
>>
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>>53277022
There, went back got 90% of the white spots, wasnr as hard as I thought
>>
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>>53277057
>>53276956

Dettol works but it's hard work.

A good portion of my bath is in paint specks. And my gloves are already covered in blue paint.

I can't imagine doing the whole army like this.

Maybe if I let them sit in it for a few days...
>>
>>53275584
I just bought the Dark Vengeance set for some practice painting for cheap, and I was wondering if someone could tell me what paints I need to paint the set?

I just want to paint these so I can start painting My Dudes.
>>
>>53276374
Why are vanguard heads so incredibly good looking on everything but the skitarii models they come with? I mean damn that looks great. I like the mix of vic parts in there too
>>
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first of my shadow war nd
>>
Anyone have any experience with the Army Painter paints?

There's this big $100 box set on sale on Amazon that tempting me, and it's very comprehensive.
>>
>>53278741

1. FOCUS!

2. I like it. Thinner lines for some of the highlights, but otherwise, good job.
>>
>>53278741
nice
>>
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>>53277851
>Dettol works but it's hard work.
>A good portion of my bath is in paint specks. And my gloves are already covered in blue paint.
>I can't imagine doing the whole army like this.

It's worth it. Hard work and courage!
>>
>>53276328
It originated from the website that you had mentioned, Forgeworld. However, I wish I had sufficient resourcefulness to create the conversion of my own means.
>>
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>>53277851
>pouring antiseptic solution down the drain
OI
I hope you use small volumes, anon
>>
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Mixed results. 2 terminators and 1 marine are squeeki clean, 2 need another round.

>>53278959

I will definitely clean my dreadnought, the rihno, and the terminators, but I don't know about the marines. We'll see.

>>53279101

A bit might have went down the drain while I worked, but that's it. I actually had a metal container that I worked in, and in the end I poured the rest into the toilet.
>>
>>53279241

Forgot to add.

I dropped one of the terminator arms down the drain...

I had the metal container exactly to prevent that, but it just slipped my fingers, bounced a few times, and straight into the drain.

I guess since I'm making an Iron Hands I can mod it to look like a ripped of mechanic arm with wires and such.
>>
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>>53279389
>I dropped one of the terminator arms down the drain...
>I had the metal container exactly to prevent that, but it just slipped my fingers, bounced a few times, and straight into the drain.

I was cleaning some metal First Edition Terminators once, and didn't notice when one of their besagews (such as the one this terminator librarian bears) disappeared down the drain. I did, however, notice it the first time I subsequently turned on the garbage disposal.
>>
>>53279389
sinks have that bend in the drain pipe specifically to catch heavy things, it may still be in there if you didn't have alot of water go through yet
>>
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trukks
>>
>>53279533

Dis iz proppuh Orky.
>>
Hey /wip/ kinda tempted to take a mini and try to paint it as bad as I can. Basically take everything I know about painting... And do the opposite.

Taking paint straight out of the pot, never cleaning thr brush, holding the mini while painting.

I want to make a monster. Should I?
>>
>>53279647
seems like a waste of time
>>
>>53279647
do it
although it might be harder than you think, making something hilariously bad rather than just something plain bad
most funny bad effects are achieved with genuine effort thinking you're doing good

you'd have better chances trying to pain well with your non-dominant hand or using some medium radically different than the one you usually use and trying to do good

that is, if you're going for amusingly bad, I think doing any of these things would help you
>>
>>53279241
>book about kikes
you're a funny guy, koleżko
good luck stripping
>>
>>53279685
>>53279768
That's fair. It maybe just a pointless task as the best of the worst is always done by those who try. Trying to make something shitty would just look too obvious. Look at OPs pic, you just know the people who painted those put in genuine effort.
>>
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>>53275584
Does Thunderhawk Blue look good as a primary color for a marine? I'm finally starting work on my guys and I want to go for a kind of Boreal Forest color scheme and I settled on Thunderhawk blue with caliban green trim, and eshin grey for the details.
>>
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>>53276956
>>53277057
>>53277851
>>53279241

Stripping always is a pain in the ass, but at least it seems to be working for you. It's always a question of how much time you have on your hands. If you don't want to let the stuff soak for days you might want to look into some airbrush cleaner cans, that stuff does wonders for myself.

>>53279533
Luvly lenses/headlights.


Imma repost my shit from last thread. Finished these formations just in time for formations to be kicked down the drain. Go me! Please let me know what you think of them before i prime them. I'm still fixing mould lines on the puppets of war sculpts, they are just awful.
>>
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>>53280351
Also got some death guard terminators in the pipe. I think this whole conversion things is getting out of hand.
>>
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Okay, trying this again.

I want to paint this little guy up, and was wondering if anyone had experience with painting open cuts, scrapes, or shrapnel wounds.
>>
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I got my first marines, usually paint my goofy valhallans. Got some questions
Is it best to paint the backpacks and heads separate from the model itself? Automatically assumed 2hd weapons are the case and did that to the flamer.
Also
Why do space marines have such fuck huge Pauldrons?
Why do black templars look so cool? Even headless they look amazing.
>>
>>53280351
The gw stuff looks a little big on the puppetswar torso/legs, the elongated aesthetic of the raptor heads doesn't help much either.They've got a good look overall though, I'm sure it'll blend better when they're painted. How much of a pain was it to pose the pw stuff? Also not a big fan of the lord's head but hey that's just me.
>>53280374
These are great, gotta appreciate when someone knows how to do greenstuff right instead of lel nurgle like the dread earlier in the thread. The bases for both images are fantastic as well anon. Hope to see more of this stuff.
>>
>>53280704
backpack is much easier to deal with unattached, I glue heads on out of fear of loosing them (and I pick specific ones for certain duders so this helps avoid mixing them up and forgetting what goes where), pauldrons are often described as being utilized as built-in shields, especially when charging the enemy.
>>
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>>53280704
>Is it best to paint the backpacks and heads separate from the model itself?

Backpacks, heads, and pauldrons, especially if the pauldrons have to have an unusual trim colour. You might regret having glued those on your Black Templars, since they wear white robes but have black trim on their pauldrons.

For heads, I drill a tiny hole in the bottom and mount them on a piece of wire; you can see my latest lot sticking out of the white foam block in the background here. Not only does this makes them easier to prime and paint, but when they're ready, I already have my pin to attach the head to the torso.

>Automatically assumed 2hd weapons are the case and did that to the flamer.

They are indeed. It's much easier to paint the plastron if there's no bolt gun getting in the way.

>Why do space marines have such fuck huge Pauldrons?

They protect the head, neck, shoulders, and arms. There are a lot of high-value body parts there, not to mention vulnerable joints in the armour.

>Why do black templars look so cool? Even headless they look amazing.

They *do* look cool, don't they?
>>
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Been working on my Wraithguard, not sure what colour to drybrush them with. Silver, gold, or light blue/grey?
>>
>>53280890
>>53281680
Why are back packs considered easier to paint while off? I glue the torso to the legs and glue the backpack on. I paint the head seperate and glue the pauldrons to the arms and paint those seperate from the body.

I mean there is really no detail between the body and the backpack.
>>
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>my space marine models finally arrive in the mail
>its the first time im seeing them in person instead of pictures and videos
>hits me how fucking small they actually are in real life

Man, i just got an understanding of why so many miniatures look mediocre and how much skill is involved for those that look amazing.
>>
>>53282188
You can look up pictures online of how big they are

Also marines are the chunkiest of troop models. Imagine painting kabalites
>>
Where do I buy more beakie helmets? I really like them, and I'm a DA successor chapter so I can get away with more, but apart from the Flyers and some bits and bobs I hijack, I buy regular SM models so I don't have as much as I would like.
>>
>>53282261
Ive been watching hours of tutorials with people holding them in their fingers but i guess the camera doesnt do it justice.

All that time ive been thinking, 'man those highlight lines look too thick and obvious'. But now i realise just getting them that thin and precise is hard enough.
>>
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Just not enough time to get these finished.

>>53280374
Love these.

>>53281739
Huh? Why are you drybrushing them?
>>
>>53280374
these have more character than most painted models
>>
>>53282502
Basicallyu because I tried drybrushing my Farseer and she turned out looking pretty good, so I figured it'd work on these guys. Am I not supposed to drybrush infantry or something? I'm pretty new to painting. Also I was considering buying some Vanta Black and painting their helms with it, would that be a good idea?
>>
>>53282612
It looks like you've already line highlighted parts so it would be odd to drybrush it, and I'm not sure why you would use a colour other than blue to do it. It looks like you've washed them so I would go back in with the original blue colour and highlight all of the body panels, then do another small highlight on top.

Drybrushing can be useful but it's difficult to do when you've already painted details.
>>
>>53278788
My buddy swears by it, that and the quickshade.
>>
Working on these and want to add some celtic knots along parts of them and my infantry. Does anyone know a site that sells celtic or norse stencils for infantry and vehicles?
>>
>>53278788
Their shades are good. Their metallics are bad. Their everything else is okay for the price.
>>
>>53282395
Bitz stores
>>
Curious question here. How steady a hand do you need for this kinda hobby? How much time is expected per model?

I may try out the hobby when I get more of a cash flow, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into first before I find out that I can't paint figurines for shit.
>>
>>53283022
Its something that you learn how to do. If you're gonna be turned away by your first sets of miniatures looking really horrible then its probably not the hobby for you.
>>
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>>53283006
>they're the most expensive SM heads

Well, why not.
>>
>>53283131
It wouldn't be too hard to make your own with green stuff, but at that point you have to weigh the cost to benefit.
>>
>>53280384
I've painted a model with an exposed spine by hitting the meat with a nice, just barely purplish red with some pinkish highlights and a nice dark wash, then beige with white highlight for bone. Apply blood for the blood god to taste.
>>
>>53278788
I picked that thing up about a year ago, and still use most of what's in it today. Nothing in it is jawdropping, but for the price it's a great deal. If I remember right I got mine for $80 but I would've payed a 100. It's definitely cheaper than buying everything seperately.

You'll be surprised how much you'll use everything in it. It's about the best starting point you can get for the hobby.
>>
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Think it's a shit photo and possibly shit minis, but oh well I finished them.
>>
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latest on left(11th miniture ever), first on right
>>
Are the bases in the start collecting boxes just bigger for single models? I made a plaguebearer champ and it just looks like they doubled the base size compared to my other plague boys. Should I stick with them or just get normal sized bases?
>>
>>53283131
>>53283181
Have they done a recent run of beakies? Seems like that would go over well
>>
>>53280384
I usethe Blood for the Blood God! paint for blood splatters and the like; it has a good sheen.
>>
>>53283368
Some models of equivalent size have larger bases. Like an Ethereal has a larger base than a regular Fire Warrior even though they're roughly the same size.

Do you have a picture of the different models on their bases?
>>
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Used Duncan's tutorial on how to do muscles.
Pretty happy with how this guy came out!
>>
>>53282502
hot as usually, you're my inspiration anon!
>>
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>>53283418
Ye I just took em for comparison here you go
>>
>>53283475
Is the Champion an HQ unit?

Like my Ethereal is larger than my Fire Warrior and my Battlesuit Commander is larger than my Crisis Suits. So if it does have that extra importance it being larger than similar models isn't that weird.

That is literally the base difference between my Ethereal and Fire Warriors
>>
>>53283500
Nah he's just a plaguebearer champion. I just used the packet of bases they put in there. I just checked for the Herald of Nurgle who is a HQ guy and his base was just in without the ones I pulled from this guy and they're the exact same size but the herald himself is significantly larger than the plaguebearer champ body. I think I'll dig around to see if I have any leftover smaller ones.
>>
>>53283385
FW makes a 'Raven Guard Head Upgrade Set' that is just a bunch of them + some guy's face.

>https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Raven-Guard-MKVI-Heads-Upgrade-Set
>>
>>53282395
Ebay
>>
>>53283254
Nice steal of the raptor parts, I kitbashed all of my bikers with that kit as well.

Good on you for putting some lightning on as well.
>>
>>53275584
Sup guys, found Orkhide shade paint or something
Can I slap that on orksin as a base then layer green over it?
Im stuck with the old paint so I was gonna slap Orkhide green then goblin green over it. Good or bad?
>>
>>53278788
Bought one of those sets two years ago and still using them. Best quality/price ratio imo. That set contains all the basic colors you need and a bit more.
>>
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Progress
>>
>>53275584
10/10 OP image
>>
>>53282127
personally I'm dealing with chaos backpacks and they get in the way a bit more but I usually have arms and pauldrons to contend with as well and it's easier to keep those off than arms for me
>>
>>53277851
I made my first coat of paint on one dude too watery and want to start over dettol is fine for this? Doesn't it make your model smell like dettol forever?
>>
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>>53284466

Nah man, dettol washes off with water.

The smell will stay in your house for a while if you don't properly vent though.
>>
>>53284517
Did you check the sink trap for the missing arm?
>>
>>53284618

It went through the trap. It stopped on it, but when I went for it it dropped below.

Maybe there's one below, but I really don't feel like screwing with the piping to get it.

I think there are Iron Hands upgrade packs that have hands, I might just buy that.
>>
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>53284649
Idfk how it ended up sideways
>>
>>53284650
I absolutely hate when that happens.

One of the scariest moments in recent memory was reaching into the garbage disposal.
>>
>>53276328
Das ist von Forgeworld. Ich wünschte ich wäre sparsam genug es selbst zu gießen .
>>
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>>53276328
Yeah, I wish I could have sculpted it myself.
>>
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>magnetizing rubric marines
>about 4 guys in and i realize their weapons fit decently snug in their grips without magnets, even before priming
>no way to pry out the magnets i already put in without chiseling them out
price of progress
>>
>>53278477
To avoid having to buy paints for 2 different armies - which half do you want to paint (first)?
>>
>>53278477
Here's a list of paints that were in the Dark Angels paint bundle.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Dark-Angels-Paint-Bundle

There are some great tutorials in the OP as well.

What colors did you have in mind for the chaos guys?
>>
>>53284675
pls be bait
pls be bait
pls be bait
>>
>>53284675
butiful
>>
>>53283556
>>53283500
>>53283475
Plaguebearer bases are such a mystery to me.
They used to be on 25mm bases and their entry on the GW website still says they do, but whether that is true or not I don't know. In the start collecting set they come on 32s but they 100% fit perfectly on 25s so I still use those. The start collecting set images online show them on varying bases. The herald has had the same treatment but was actually always too big for a 25mm base.

Funnily enough I stuck my converted herald who is mostly a blight king on a 32mm base and he fits it perfectly, while blight kings come on big 40mm bases...

One of the things I dislike about GW at the moment is the tendancy of using too big bases. To my eyes models look better slightly overflowing a base than when they are lost in the middle of it.
>>
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>Yer Orders are ta clear da area, lockdown da Gas relays, prepare for da Rok bombardment
Aye Boss
>Take da Big Guy, dem Yoofs too and whatever uvva lads wanna go and remembah... proper sneaky, right?
Aye Boss Snikrot, we'll do it right

WIP Shadow War gang, still in various states of completion - It's been a fun project so far using new techniques and skin recipe. There's two more Ork Boyz to come and maybe a Mek If I can make the time / find the right model.
>>
>start painting something
>Notice a mouldline when it's too late

Fuck...
>>
>>53285393
good job with skin, good scheme, and props for bane mask on boss
>>
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More tzaangors for my small tzeentch AoS crew.
>>
>>53285507
colour choices are nice but overall they look a bit flat. maybe the lightning? and I can spot some pools of wash on the claws of the discs and the cloth between their legs. and the left guys right leg. perfect for playing, improvable for looking at. 7/10, good job.
>>
>>53285507
>>53285543
maybe another thing: I'd reconsider the colour of the blades. you use it on several other parts of the tzaangors. either make them more light purplish, i.e. almost glowing or change the color to purplish steel or another more contrasting.
>>
>>53277057
I paint my IH force black, silver and the highlights red. Looks much better, especially when they are standing beside their mechcanicum m8s
>>
What are you working on goyim?
>>
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>>53285543
>>53285561
So far they're only basecated and washed. Highlights comming soon, and purple blades are getting NMM just like those ones.
>>
>>53283435
Looks bretty gud Anon, good job
>>
>>53276328
The materials itself were from forgeworld. However I wish I had the talent to create them by my own hand.
>>
>>53276328
You think I am resourceful enough to mod it myself? It's Forgeworld.
>>
>>53285730
much better blades. you should have said the others were only WIP.
>>
>>53276328
Parish the thought, I lack such skills at the moment and could only dream of such talent. I bought the shit from cast planet.
>>
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Just got my flowers from UK and made two bases with them. What do you guys think?
>>
>>53276328
Its from Forge world, im the regimental quarter master not the departmento munitorum you slovenly soldier!
>>
>>53276328
The upgrade is from factory globe. I yearn for the ability to construct that type of modification.
>>
>>53280827
>The gw stuff looks a little big on the puppetswar torso/legs, the elongated aesthetic of the raptor heads doesn't help much either.
I have to agree on both of those points, but the arms and heads in the box didn't mesh with the usual style of GW at all, so this was a compromise. We'll see how it turns out.

>How much of a pain was it to pose the pw stuff?
Fairly easy i suppose. Most of them had to be pinned, although the resin is a little more brittle than usual and as i already mentioned, there was a ton of excess flash and mould lines.

>>53282502
Thanks man, means a lot. Really loving those pustules!

>>53284649
>>53284675
If it's metal, strip it. If it's resin, also strip it. There is no hope otherwise.

>>53285393
Loving the axe guy. His metals look pretty flat though, but that could just be the lighting.
>>
>>53278477
If you don't want to spend all the money at once I'd recommend the following.

Caliban Green (Green Base)
Warpstone Glow (Green Highlight)
Mephiston Red (Red Base)
Wild Rider Red (Red Highlight)
Leadbelcher (Metal Base)
Ironbreaker (Metal Highlight)
Zandri Dust (Brown/Cloth Base)
Agrax Earthshade (Cloth Shade)
Nuln Oil (Armour/Metal Shade)

That alone will cost you £25+ and give you just enough to do the Dark Angel tactical squad. Paints are one of those things that you will end up sinking a lot of money into as you want to buy new colours and you'll gradually build up a collection that'll let you do more colours.

It might be worth starting with a Base Paint set to get started along with Caliban Green, assuming you're going to do Dark Angels first. Focus on doing base coats and then worry about picking up highlight colours and washes later. You can probably mix together a highlight of a colour by adding in a touch of white and thinning the paint down more than usual.

If you do have the cash it may be worth buying a big paint set, though GW doesn't offer a good all around one. Vallejo Paints and Army Painter are both brands I've seen people recommend, and you can often find their big bundles on discount.
>>
>>53285858
Looks good, though the picture is a bit blurry.

>>53285393
You're doing Mork's work, boss. Damn nice work on the digital camo and the join between flesh and cybork hand.
>>
>>53278477
you could also buy vallejo paints.
Bigger bottles (17ml instead of 12ml), dropper bottles instead of open topped (means your paint will not dry out like with the gw pots), and is also cheaper.

Only backdraw is that you have to substitute equivalent shades if you want to use GW painting guides.
>>
>>53282752
I am a lazy fucker and I will drybrush whenever I can. Basecoat the entire model in its primary colour, drybrush over to highlight, get to work on all the other colours. Doesn't work with every type of mini, but it has saved me so much time. I do the base+drybrush with a batch of infantry and then finish them off individually and it cuts down the painting time to 2-3 hours per model.
>>
>>53285507
>>53285730
Colourful Nurgle anon here, loving your colourful Tzeench. The only thing that bothers me is the white armour, it looks unfinished, which I guess it probably is?

>>53285393
These are great. I sort of wish the camo was a little bolder, I reckon on the tabletop it will be hard to see.
>>
Don't have imagine editing software right now so I apologise for the potato quality but WIP on a Hollow soldier. Skin and shield are left to do.
>>
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>>53286284
Ahem..
>>
how do you feel about posting our stuff on 4chan when you posted it in some forum and might get recognized?
>>
>>53282395
FW sells some I guess.
>>
>>53286375
There are official GW novels that give thanks to /tg/. 4chan is as mainstream as Reddit is
>>
>>53283435
I like it!

Link to the tutorial? I've never painted muscles before.
>>
>>53283475
>>53285165
Agreed, my plague bearers will stay on 25mm, as will all my minor daemons, if its not broken dont fix it.
>>
>>53285393
That's a great green tone. What did you use on it? I'd like to use it for my grots.
>>
>>53277851
I use diluted acetone for stripping models, you have to be careful and alternate between scrubbing with the solution and running the model under the tap to prevent the plastic from deforming but it's the fastest method I've ever used. You can dump metal models in pure acetone and the paint practically falls off after 5 minutes.
>>
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>using acetone or non-acetone varnish remover on anything other than metals
>using smelly dettol that makes an unshiftable gloop on your miniatures if you try to wash them with water before scrubbing

You are like a little baby
>>
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>>53286499

Thanks! It's...

>Deathworld Forest base
>Deathworld Forest + Dark Reaper wash
>Deathworld Forest Highlight
>Deathworld Forest + Rakarth Flesh Highlight

>>53286263

Thanks! I know what you mean, I might have to move to a darker tone and go over some of it, although i'm pretty happy with the look

>>53286103

Thanks Bro, I daresay the flesh is what I'm most proud of, The digital camo was an experiment, pretty happy how it came out.

>>53285958

The Big guy "Axe guy", was only started yesterday, All his metals are still to do so that's just a couple layers of boltgun on there right now but I will be working on that later! Thanks again

>>53285455

Thanks Anon!
>>
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>>53286577
>being so poor you shop at Wilko instead of Quicksave
>>
>>53286607

The fuck is a Quicksave?

I always get my super glue and now my paint stripper from Wilko, I can't recommend the stripper enough.
>>
>>53286619

Those fucking scouts.

I'd heard good things about the wilko shit, I'll be heading there on Saturday and literally buying everything they have
>>
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>>53286619
>>
>>53286651

I wish I could find the Facebook trade group post I bought the Scouts from, they were only a few quid but they were absolutely horrific.

I basically left them sitting in Power Spray for months and only the paint on the flat parts was scrubbing off, I was having to try to pick out the crevices. One night in Wilko's stuff and they were literally like new, mental.
>>
The dakka stripping link doesn't exist anymore.
Anyway, what's the best way to strip resin? I usually use denatured alcohol for metal and plastic, but it warps/melts resin.
>>
>>53286684
link works fine, you need to a) learn to read and b) include the ellipses on the end of the link
>>
>>53286455
Which ones?
>>
>>53277471
that's quite nice
>>
>>53287046
Night lords one do for sure.

DoW 3 Macca design has 4chan fanart's face paint made official as well.
>>
>>53286577
Tell me more about this stuff? How fast does it work? How much brushing involved? Will it strip flesh from the bone?
>>
>>53287157

Wilko Paint and Varnish remover, about £3 for a 500ml bottle so it's cheap, mine's lasted me a good while.

Copied from the archive:

I'll try to be as complete as I can because especially with stripping I hate forum posts with people being hazy or making presumptions.

These are old Space Crusade Scouts that spent a night in the stuff, wish I had pictures of them previously. They were horrific, several layers of paint and enamel paints in parts. Fairy Power Spray was stripping the paint off the large flat surfaces, but the many recesses where still bad. I actually considered throwing them in the bin. Some unrelated pieces from 90s metal torso Blood Angels had a slight red tint afterwards from the original paint but were smooth.

>How fast does it work?
Within minutes you will see the white viscous liquid has spots of colour in it where the paint has started dissolving, I'd say after two hours you could give them a scrub with a firm toothbrush and maybe put them back in if it hasn't shifted 100%.

I've never left plastics in for more than two or three days though, so I can't guarantee you can leave stuff in it for weeks like Dettol.

>Does it smell worse than dettol?
No but much like Dettol I wouldn't huff too much.

>Do the miniatures smell of it after cleaning like when they're stripped with dettol?

No it doesn't permeate clothes or miniatures like Dettol.

>Does it fuck up your hands unless you wear gloves (the skin on my hands is fucked to all hell, huge cracks and peeling skin so I have to be careful when stripping things)?

Yes, I'd certainly recommend wearing Marigolds then. I get by with latex gloves I bin every session.
>>
>>53287157

There's a lot less picking at recesses with a toothpick afterwards compared to stuff like Isopropyl alcohol and Dettol too, man you can spend hours doing that and it's infuriating.
>>
Anyone with good tips to paint crypt or graveyard style bases? I'm planing to base my FEC that way and bought a couple of plastic gravestones already.
Could use tips for the rest though, like maybe skull / skeleton bitz, good colors for earth that is "fresh", like when some ghoul digged there to grab a corpse etc.
>>
>>53287225
>Fairy Power Spray was stripping the paint off the large flat surfaces, but the many recesses where still bad.

That is the exact experience I had with the stuff and it made me give up on stripping non-metal miniatures. Might actually try repurposing some old stuff again now.

Is it still worth using acetone based stuff for metal and, if so, what's the best place to get some? The Superdrug nail polish remover any good?
>>
>>53282992
could have them custom made:
http://www.fallouthobbies.com/custom/
>>
>>53287301

I'll be honest I've switched over to the Wilko stuff 100% just for convenience, but there's nothing wrong with any standard acetone nail polish remover on lead or pewter metals, very quick and effective on all but the worst jobs. I had some Rogue Trader Terminators sat in Acetone for months though, and still had bits in the crevices after several pickings, so I gave them one go in the Wilko stuff to finish the job.
>>
>>53286461
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f87PyCCl0PY
>>
>>53288008
Why would you spoonfeed some one who doesn't know how to type something into a YouTube search?
>>
>>53285594

Can you post an example? I'm intrigued.
>>
>>53276328
C'est du FeuWeu, jamais je pourrais sculpter ça moi même.
>>
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Finally started my first ever set of minis. This is a lot more fun and a bit easier than I had anticipated.
>>
>>53289445
now comes the less fun part; cleaning the areas where they were joined to the sprue and then removing the mold lines you've still got on them.
>>
>>53289492
Should I just use a nail file or something similar for the mold lines?
>>
>>53279518
I thought that bend is to stop the smell coming up from the smelly drains etc
>>
>>53289565
it is what it does
collecting gunk is a purely accidental feature
>>
I just use a knife blade and gently scrape along them until they're gone.
>>
>>53289638
>>53289517
>>
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A death cult assassin for my Inquisition Kill Team, armed with an executioner greatblade.

Any thoughts?
>>
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Some feedback on my Sisters of Silence WIP?
>>
>>53289669
skin is grainy and looks like marble, definitely needs something doing to it.
The red and the gold look really nice together, I like how vibrant the red looks.
>>
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Looking for legit C&C and suggestions to improve my Iron Warriors scheme. Both the trim and the steel have a base, wash, and drybrushed highlight, but I feel like they still look pretty flat and bland for the effort put in.

Still need to do details like the eyes and horns, I just want to square away the basic scheme first.
>>
>>53289638
Right on.
>>
I am genuinely terribly at line highlighting (my hands shake like I have perpetual DTs) and I like how dry brushing looks.

Is it possible/reasonable to entirely dry brush models (Skitarii Rangers in this instance)? Do you just fix up the overlap as you go?
>>
>>53278698
because not beep boop enough
>>
>>53283022
There are techniques for steadying your hand while painting. As long as you don't paint after a workout or gulp coffee all day you can reach an acceptable level
>>
>>53289900
The hazard stripes look great and the trim is fine.
It seems like the main issue here is the silver, bits of it look like they've got depth but other bits look way too bright.
>>
>>53290051
Yeah I feel like the Leadbelcher goes on way too fucking bright. Even the basecoat has Nuln Oil mixed in to tone it down.

What do you think, blast it with Nuln Oil and try again with a darker drybrush?
>>
>>53290225
give it another wash and see how it ends up.
Also consider painting either the studs on the shoulder pad itself a different colour on the guy on the righht
>>
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Wip russ
>>
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And wip bulls
>>
>>53289744
Thank you! The "skin" is just unpainted primer atm, will do the skin tomorrow
>>
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Would anyone know if the legionnaire heads from Hail Caesar fit well on Cadians? I've been looking around for proper heads to put on my Ultramar Auxilia and they seem like the best option, but I didn't want to get a whole sprue for Romans and the just use the heads.
And how hard would it be to model a gladiator like faceplate onto them?
>>
>>53290350
Really clean and good looking! Nice work!
>>
>>53289928
Not impossible and like most techniques putting in time and effort with it will still look better than a sloppy job done with more "advanced' application. If possible even if you can only manage relatively broad strokes it may be worth layer highlighting the cloth/rubbers parts though, then dry brushing finer details if needed, just so the texture of all the parts doesn't look 100% identical.
>>
>>53291078

Anvil Industries has loose gladiators style heads and for what its worth separate horse hair crests you can order and fit to any helmet you want.
>>
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First of my Ordo Xenos kill team.
>>
>>53291221
I like this idea. Line-highlighting the backpacks and metal components is much easier than the guns given how angular they are. I could line the leather and metal and dry brush the guns.
>>
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>>53276331
>>
>>53291437
stormbolter looks comically big on him, especially using it one handed
>>
>>53291437
Nice kitbash, it looks very good
>>
Ever done something the first time and pretty much nailed what you were going for, but every time you tried to do the same thing again you couldn't get it quite right?


Been happening to me constantly, from paint jobs to sculpts
>>
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Test scheme for my Chosen of Nurgle chaos space marine squad.
Not sure how feel, going to have to mix up some different yellows & greens to get something I like enough.
Kinda want some a little more vibrant maybe :\
First time I've done anything fleshy, and being Red/Green color blind doesn't help haha.
Maybe more yellows :P
>>
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>>53286263
>mfw my /tg/ idol and person, who was my inspiration, compliments my paintjob

I think I just came a little
>>
>>53291692
sounds like everything I ever attempt, symmetry is the bane of my life
>>
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Daemon Prince of Slaanesh.
>>
>>53292099
oy vey.
>>
>>53292099
not sure about the hairstyle, everything else is pretty nice.
>>
>>53291744
Color looks good, thin the paint a bit maybe. Really I think itll look fine once you do the detailing on the metal and stuff.
>>
>>53290350
Looks great, the camo is awesome. Maybe add some freehanding and paint chipping?
>>
>>53290384
Shading on the flesh looks a little odd, maybe use some wash around the recesses? Other then that looks good so far.
>>
>>53289900
Black wash and then re highlight. Be sure to undercoat the metal black if you aren't already.
>>
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>>53292129
If Slaanesh's sacred number was five, it'd be a pentagram. If Slaanesh's sacred number was seven, it'd be a heptagram.

But Slaanesh's sacred number is six, so its a hexagram.
>>
>>53292099
Is there even any conversion work in this? Just seems like a model from nonGW.
>>
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>>53290051 #
>>53290332 #
I feel like this is a pretty dramatic improvement
>>
Any cool human heads I can use for neophytes to replace the downie scout ones that come with no?
Looking for a normal human head with hair, no helm or goggles, maybe 1 guy can have goggles or eyepiece or something.
Pref GW bits.
>>
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so what's the proper "look" for lenses? This is the first time I've ever seriously attempted it.

Are they supposed to "line up" as if they were pupils looking at something, or are they supposed to be opposite, say one do is forward in the lense while the other is to the rear?

Because I cannot get the eye lenses looking consistent. Some look fine but other look like a bad people meme with a lazy eye.

Also apologies for the shit camera, it's all I have
>>
>>53292154
The paint is already quite thin.
The batch of CSM's have been sitting in a box for four years as my first botched primer job (Late Canadian November's are not a spray cans friend)
I striped as much of the primer as I could and painted.
As for metallic highlights I don't have much to work with reguarding paints.
>>
>>53292623
I tend to put the lens highlight for space marines in the top corner. Your highlights are sloppy desu but its ok, just rehighlight the edge around the lens and then rewash the recess around the lens
>>
>>53292623
>>
>>53292668
>>53292684
ah ok thanks. That makes more sense then. I was treating them like pupils and trying to pick something for them to "look at". That combined with me having shaky hands explains a lot.

Yeah I'm not used to painting lenses so they're gonna be sloppy for a bit until I get the hang of it.
>>
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>>53292489
Wings are converted onto her along with the hair, original model had short hair in a topknot.

Thanks to the wings and hair she's mostly GW lol
>>
>>53276328
Don't be so fucking absurd, I got it from bloody forgeworld you absolute piece of shit
>>
>>53292129
oy gevalt it's annudah Skalathrax

remember the slave wars
>>
>>53289565
called a sink trap, meant to catch stuff that isn't supposed to go down
>>
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Magnetized the heavy flamer but now I don't feel like painting the other options...
>>
>>53293043
Tumbling down tumbling down~
>>
I have 40 skitarii I want to strip the paint from; 20 fully painted, layered, highlighted, etc, 20 just single-coat based.

How long will it take to strip the paint once it's soaked in cleaner? What percentage removal should I look for? How can I get the paint out of the bajillion tiny details? Is this a reasonable project or should I give up and live with what I've got?

(What I've got isn't bad at all, but it was my first army and I was too nervous to try a custom paint scheme. Now I'm a grizzled veteran and want to paint myself a unique uniform)
>>
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Trying to make Segmentata type shoulders for my guardsmen. First time using green stuff. Looks rough. Thoughts?
>>
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How's this look for a first time airbrush set-up? Do I need anything else besides pic related, a spraybox, and some paint?
Do I need to use airbrush thinner for my paint, or is just using water okay? I mainly use Citadel paints (non-air) and Vallejo surface primer. Can I these in my airbrush or do I need something else? I know GW makes an air range but I'm wondering if I can just convert my current non-air paints into air paints easily.
>>
>>53294877
>Thoughts?
Wait till it's dry then sand it to make it look less rough and uneven. Post pics when that's done and it'll be easier to tell if the conversion works or not.
As it stands now, HIS left shoulder looks pretty good but the right shoulder doesn't. It looks awkwardly close to his neck compared to the other. Could just be the angle of the photo however.
Get some nice helmets and sprinkle around some cingulum militare and I'd say you're good where you stand.
>>
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>>53283633
>tfw no one answered question
>>
>>53289900
Is that an autocannon?
>>
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Workin on this guy he's coming along well but still needs work especially on the 1k son on the base
>>
>>53290350
I'm probably going to get some tanks soon. Do you have any advice for painting them? Is it pretty much the same thing as painting dudes but larger?
>>
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This is seriously one of the most annoying things I've ever painted. So much shit in the way. So many straight lines. The base is constantly taking a trip to snap city too.

Both the blue and cream needed 3 layers each. Fug.
>>
>>53275584
>People keep noticing my models at FLGS
>People really like them even though they're pretty mediocre
>"Dude I'd totally pay you to paint my army"
>Get nonstop offers to pay for painting services
>I take hours to paint things because I just kind of zone out and watch TV.
>A single squad can take me several days
>Don't even look that great, I just pick all the hard as shit things to paint because I hate myself apparently
>Not even sure what a fair rate to charge would be even if I wasn't painting at a snails pace
>People keep asking

the suffering is real. The worst part is I know all of the potential "buyers" well enough to know that not only are they serious but that they would pony up just about anything I asked which makes it really hard to turn them down.
>>
>>53299223
Still got to do the windows, rehighlight some bronze, the aether tubes to the endrins, the details and markings...

And I've still got the crew and base to paint!

It will be cool when it's done but fuck me.
>>
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My sisters kill team for my store's shadow war campaign. They hail from an order near fenris, hence the wolf bits
>>
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>>53299280
>>
>>53297970
this looks like, he wants to take revenge cause his lover died
>>
>>53299280
That inquisitor conversion looks spicy AF. Stealing this.
>>
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Doing a friend's kriegers for shadow war, ready for bases except for the flag, it needs a little love.

Question: Does anybody else who's relatively new to this have a problem with rapid exponential quality growth? my early models from just last year are fucking sad and I'm afraid to paint a proper army in volume just to be twice as good at the end and have to start over.
>>
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>>53299608
>>
Anyone know a good dark blue rattle can?
>>
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I'm not certain how the Ordo Xenos managed to negotiate for a member of the legendary Deathwing to be seconded to the Watch, but I'm certainly glad he's on our side!
>>
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Making progress on my Custodes. Need to ink the reds and the leather still, and do some details and highlights. Thoughts so far?
>>
>>53299223
I would probably swap the plastic base with a brass rod. I've done so with my 40k fliers and it works a lot better for stability
>>
>>53299581
I already stole it from another guy in these threads. Save for the shoulderpads and axe though.

Used the wolf skull from the torso of a space wolf, a frost axe, and the belly plate.
>>
>>53285858
Argo Brigade?
>>
>>53299623
>>53299608
It's called practice anon. You think it's scary now wait till you've been doing it for 4 years or so.
>>
>>53297784
Yes. Started life as a Defiler's reaper AC, turned out to be far too big, chopped it down and substituted a Heavy Bolter receiver to reduce the length. Chopped and reversed the bayonet mount and converted it into a bipod. More plastic tube to make a short barrel and big chunky flash supressor.
>>
>>53299231
Do an estimate based on minimum wage, and how many hours you spend painting at night. You can probably get them done quicker if you knuckle down but the lower hourly rate smooths out any potential delays. Always quote beforehand and preferably get at least 25% up front.
>>
>>53299223
>Both the blue and cream needed 3 layers each.
I can tell. Cream looks quite thick.

But dude, why don't you paint it in sub assemblies and off the flyer base if shit gets in your way/ it constantly breaks off. Shit, iot looks like you could easily leave the 2 'balloons' off.
>>
>>53299231
I've gotten the same the few times I brought my models to my local GW for painting competitions. Things is, I also paint super slowly and I only take that time because I want MY army to looks as good as I can manage.

Also, I'd not waste so much time 'working' for minimum wage.
>>
>>53291744
As a Nurgle player I feel like Nurgle shouldn't be vibrant. Games Workshop paints their Nurgle in bright and lively colors because of objective quality control, but to me a dark, gritty looking Nurgle miniature looks better than a well-painted but bright and happy-looking Nurgle miniature any day of the week. I'm also not a fan of taking regular-looking CSM miniatures and just painting them up to look Nurgle when you could actually convert them, but hey, if you're just doing it for the gameplay then go ahead. Just my opinion.
>>
>>53299231
give it a shot m8. Comission paiting is whole diffrent thing than paiting for yourself. You have clear frames how do you have to paint them, and deadline for doing this. It's motivating and force you to try diffrent approach to your paiting, thus making you even better painter.

Also, prepare price for your services ahead, so you don't go full dumb when people ask you for it - personally i take as much as mm of base size per model + extra fee for hero or some fancy details (NMM, freehanding patterns, etc.).
>>
>>53275826
ugh. just paint the parts that are primed white and you missed? how retarded could you be?
>>
>>53297970
>Give me high five, come on brother!
>>
>>53299899
>Sight is for pussies anyway.
>>
>>53300243
Yup! Will be posting more once I get my sort of lightbox together.
>>
Hey folks, I am having some trouble painting my imperial fists. I cant get the yellow right. After basecoating the entire model in gray and I start to apply the first yellow it gets messed up.

The strokes show and I cant get a good layer. Should I try to paint more thin layers of yellow before washing etc?
>>
Did some tests with the Wilko stripper. Left some plastic models in it for 2 weeks to see what would happen.

End result is the super glue it could get to is just rubbery slime. Other wise the model is exactly as if you had left it in 24 hours. Seems GW plastic at least is basically immune to it.
>>
>>53299608
sounds like a problem you'd want to have desu sempai
>>
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Took a group shot of so far close to finished guys. Still need to fix that white smut on the chest of radioman and few final touches. Slowly but surely getting there.

UPSIDE DOWN! SIDEWAYS!
>>
>>53289667
Need a side image of it to get the sword's details. Also figure out how to flip your camera, and put a sheet of paper under it so we don't see your ugly walls.
>>
>>53290384
The skin looks almost cel-shaded, which is neat if that's what your aim was.
>>
>>53291437
The storm bolter looks ridiculous being one-handed by a Guardsman. Also, you need to make sure to handle the flash on the servitor.
>>
>>53299608
Imho - better than stagnation.
>>
>>53299943
Pretty legit, but you still need to highlight the halberd and, in the future, drill out your barrel holes.
>>
How much scrubbing is required of china resin if it's been sitting in soap water for liken month?
>>
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What colour should I do for a cape that would complement this colour scheme? I'm leaning towards earthy brown or cream.
>>
>>53301631
i know you're doing a camo thing, but a complimentary or contrasting colour would be best imho.

Camo has a cool operator factor, but otherwise looks pretty dull on the table.
>>
>>53301541
jesus anon, no need for them to lay there for a month.
It's just about getting the greasy mould release agent off, so just scrub, feel them over, and if they dont feel slippery just like regular resin/plastic, it's all good.
>>
>>53301707
Actually the proper camo is only for the pathfinders and Darkstrider. This is for the Fireblade, who has the FW's scheme. What colour would you recommend?
>>
>>53301421
Looks good for the most part, but the blue armour is quite flat. Everything else has a grimy look to it (in a good way), but the armour looks out of place. It'd definitely benefit from painting in some more details, especially on the helmets/masks. I feel like a wash would help as well, since a lot of the detail is lost.
>>
>>53299608
You can always go back to your early models to tidy them up/improve upon them.
>>
>>53301421
those masks and goggles aint great

I'd rip em off and go for something simpler next time
>>
>>53301728

I just sorta left them in their containers while I worked on shit, that's all. Figured it wouldn't hurt them.
>>
>>53301829
Yea my GS skills aint that great, but it doesnt bother me that much. Might replace them with cadian gasmasks at some point. Dont know yet

>>53301752
You are right, need to make them more like they have seen some shit. I tried some drybrushing but it looked bit off for me. Any advice? Some sepia wash on the bottom of shoulder pads?
>>
>>53276328
Het materiaal komt van SmederijWereld, ik wou dat ik over de vaardigheden beschikte ommhet zelf te vervaardigen.
>>
What's a good cleaning detergent for primer? I got some primer over an old plastic table.
>>
>>53302061
A blue wash painted into the recesses may work. Drybrushing won't work well on those armoured bits, but a simple edge highlight should work. What I'd recommend doing, as a complete process is the following. I'd recommend that you redo the base coat to remove the drybrushing/other highlights. Getting a highlight on the rounded helmet may be difficult. Some very light drybrushing in your highlight colour may work, but be careful.

As for the masks, I'd strongly advise that you paint them a different colour to the armour. At the moment the look strange and lumpy. If they were in a dark brown or even a beige/khaki it'd look much less strange. Maybe match the colour of the fatigues. As it is you've just got a blob of blue for a face, and the black lenses don't break it up too much.
>>
>>53287225
Another anon in the Wilko master race I see, glorious

Shit's insane, I can literally dunk models in and paint comes off in clumps
>>
>>53302124
Thanks for the advices, will try those.
>>
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Some old Cadians I'm trying out some conversions on
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>>53302226
>>
>>53276328
'Tis not an indication of my skill.
I purchased it from Forge World, as ye will.
>>
Can someone give me a rough estimate for how much use i can get out of an avg container of paint?

Like say a vallejo game colour 17ml bottle. And it was the main base for an army.
>>
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Rate my Shadowsun, lads. I'm mostly happy with it but the chest is missing "something".
>>
>>53302355
I'd guess around 50 28mm minis.
>>
>>53302226
>>53302267
I hope that's grey undercoat lad.
>>
>>53302369
Thanks, thats fairly decent. Wont have to break the bank beyond buying the initial set.
>>
>>53302371
It's some sort of grey paint, these came from eBay for mere pennies. I'm just hacking at them to get rough ideas on positioning and what seems to work.
>>
>>53302360
yeah, do the little logo in bright green, bright red, fucking *something*.
>>
>>53302485
Seconding this. You need a third colour to break up the mass of green that is the torso. A red logo would stand out nicely and match the hair.
>>
>>53302502
>>53302485
You really think so? perhaps the shoulderpad logos as well, to denote rank or some such?
>>
>>53302561
Shoulderpads matching probably wouldn't be to its detriment, and it would give a dash of contrasting colour to each side of the model.

If you want to avoid going too bright/contrasting you could probably do the logo in very light grey/white highlight. That would stand out without contrasting with all the cooler green shades and would leave the hair as the one bit of sharp contrast that draws the eye.
>>
>>53302636
Hmm, alright. I'm doing the red logo right now, I'll post a pic and then take it step by step.
>>
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>>53299223
Updated picture. Nearly finished. Got to do the base and the crew now.
>>
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>>53302661
>>53302636
Logo done, how's that? If it looks good, I think I'll do the shoulderpads the same.
>>
>>53302768
Much better.
>>
>>53302768
Yeah, looks good. Nice little touch of warm colour in the middle of a cool model.
>>
>>53302820
>>53302783
Thank you very much. I'm going to do the shoulderpad bubbles in the same way.
>>
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How would I get a look like this on a base?
>>
>>53286297

I've been waiting to see some of these in wip, yay
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Just finished my first squad in awhile after being away from the hobby, looking for some C&C

Image dump incoming
>>
Had a quick question over at /swag/, and thought you guys might help me with ideas. Mostly just a repost, but maybe you have some ideas on how to get around problems with the below scenario.

Do normal plastic figures properly base-coated and painted have any problems being submerged in plain water?

We have a fun concept for a beach assault, and we have a sizeable box with water and a beach. We plan on putting some defensive trenches in, and having a 2 Grey Knights vs an IG kill team face off against each other.

But we aren't sure if the models are fine with being submerged like that. It seems it might be an issue. We dont have basing/magnetic bases, so that isnt the problem - rather it is the models and the painting we are worried about.

Anyone had some experience with this, or some good advice on how to do it? I'd really want to use actual water.

We use GW bad coats and paints, if it matters. We also used plastic glue (the one that melts the plastic until it merges) so that shouldn't be a problem from what I understand.
>>
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>>53302851
by pre textured plasticard
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>>53302949
Are you a fucking children? Stop being retarded and just paint the area blue
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>>53286297
>>53302914

Are there any additional steps you need to take for painting them? Will a rinse, dry and standard undercoat be fine?
>>
>>53302944
>>53302962
>>53302969
>>53302980
>>53302987

These are some high quality rabid marinelets.
>>
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>>53302990
Didn't even rinse them but the plastic is cheap and nasty.
>>
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>>53302944
>Just finished my first squad in awhile after being away from the hobby, looking for some C&C
>Image dump incoming

Looks good. Could use a few of these ladz in my army!

What colour is that on the edge highlights? Dawnstone?
>>
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>>53303032

Thanks. It's Dark Reaper then Fenrisian Grey.
>>
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Going for an OSL effect
>>
>>53302983
MANCHILDREN, if you please.

With a lot of free time and even more disposable income.

>just paint it blue
What the fuck. That's the absolute worst idea ive ever heard.
>>
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>>53303034
not a blog mate. Either merge the images together or post the best 3
>>
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Last one
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>>53303116
For the love of God make a collage before posting instead of sending 30 pictures
>>
>>53303055
They'll probably be fine, depending on what they're based with.

I'd recommend just sealing them all with a coat of gloss then a coat of matte varnish like you should do anyway if you're really worried.

It's going to get messy though, the sand will stick to the wet miniatures and you'll probably have to clean them after the game. Sounds fun though.

Alternatively make a proper board using the vallejo water paste and sealed sand so you can transport it easily and use it as many times as you like.
>>
>>53303141
>>53303135

My bad, will keep that in mind
>>
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Been working on some Objective markers and ejected Commander (2nd to left in pic) for the Tau and been enjoying modelling some new poses after doing a few legit squads.

I'm planning two more with the spares I have:
> A damaged stealth suit opening up and the pilot trying to get out. Anyone know they do get in and out of those suits?
> A ruined Crisis suit with a dead hand sticking out of the front hatch or however they get in and out.
Anyway what do you anon's think? How much effort have you put into your objective markers?
>>
>>53303168
It is a repurposed aquarium. It doesn't need to be transported.

Hmm, doing something to avoid the sand sticking would probably be a good idea. Originally, the thought was that sand was easy to place the models in, but on a wet model... that could be an issue. Especially since this is for Shadow War, where we actually have to be able to place them face down in the sand.

Maybe water wasn't our biggest obstacle for this idea haha. Oh well. Will look into the sand thing, and make sure all relevant models have proper coatings. Might report back with my experience with this, it was strangely difficult to find any word on waters effect on miniatures.
>>
>>53303237
>> A damaged stealth suit opening up and the pilot trying to get out. Anyone know they do get in and out of those suits?
I apparently didn't save it, but there is fanart of a tau pilot climbing out of a suit.
a female pilot that is.

Aside from the pin up character of the picture I think it's a pretty sensible depiction.

>Anyway what do you anon's think? How much effort have you put into your objective markers?
So far zero. I haven't painted a single tau, even though I bought them ten years ago.
Anyway I got some Infinity escape pods from Micro Arts studio.
With the right paintjob they'd look perfectly at home in a tau army. That is what I was gonna use.
>>
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Shoulderpads done and I'm really happy with the result. Thoughts?
>>
>>53303397
Job's a good 'un. Looks like it ties into the red lenses on those stealth suits in the background too.
>>
>>53303420
Haha, yeah! Doing all lenses and implants like that. Darkstrider has a regular blue and a terminator-like red one for his analyzer.

Time to start on the Fireblade then, going to try and do his cloak in a cream colour. He also has a solid barrel chest so I'll have to do something similar to Shadowsun for him.
>>
>>53303450
Just took a peek at the model. Make the large, central chest and shoulder emblems red and have black and white for the other, smaller ones?
>>
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>>53303473
Which model did you look at? I had posted a regular FW cause he uses his colour scheme. This is my Fireblade model.

That said, the cloak blends in with his barrel chest so I was thinking either I do a red fire caste logo on his belt buckle or make the cream of the cloak on his chest, like he's draping it around him, with the green armour underneath
>>
>>53303532
Thicc as hell
>>
>>53302949
Put on some matt varnish and it should be fine I guess.
>>
>>53303532
Now... Why would you do this to a model?
>>
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>>53303681
I wanted to make him bulkier since the official model is also has a big chest.
>>
>>53303397
Now we're talking! Really helps out with all the green.
>>
>>53303326
You mean this one? It's the only one I have as a reference so far so I'll just stick to it. Those escape pods sounded pretty good but I can't find any pictures on google. Got any on your end anon?
>>
>>53303724
What? It's just milliput. It's a chestplate.
>>
>>53303746
I dunno man maybe I just have to see it painted but it really looks terrible right now.
>>
>>53303746
>>53303761
Sure it's not a training bra?
>>
>>53303761
I can understand since the milliput is a way different colour so it looks kindof wrong but even primed black it doesn't look bad. I like him.

Just need advice on whether I do his chest as part of the cloak or as armour.
>>
>>53303745
Used to be rules for this. Basically the safety ejection system, exploded the battlesuit for some minor damage, while sending the pilot in a 2d6 scatter if I recall correctly.

He had no armour and just a pulse pistol. It was a fun concept, and I loved it despite how ineffective it was (way too expensive and a signature system, so not really a good option in general), but I am pretty sure it never had a model for it.

The fact that it had no armour is telling though. They aren't equipped to take direct hits in there.
>>
>>53303782
yes, I know, it looks like a sports bra due to the contrasting colours and the close-up.
>>53303739
Thank you very much!
>>
>>53303532
Yeah, I was looking at the standard GW model. If you can sculpt on some detail or but some bitz on there I'd recommend it.
>>
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>>53303745
>You mean this one? It's the only one I have as a reference so far so I'll just stick to it.
yeah that's the one.
>Those escape pods sounded pretty good but I can't find any pictures on google. Got any on your end anon?
Yeah I found some images.
With the proper paintjob and some tau sept markings these should look pretty convincing. If you do some passengers you should have a nice matching set of objective markers. At least that was my plan.
>>
>>53299608
I don't have this problem because the only models I paint are scummy cultists who are one in a million so I just don't go back when I improve.
>>
>>53303868
Not sure how much I can sculpt anything straight with my skill, and the chest is very smooth and rounded. What could I attach, you reckon?

I was thinking if, after painting, it still looks too empty, I could put on some transfers or attempt to freehand something.
>>
>>53303909
I'm not familiar with Tau kits so I'm not sure. Do the vehicle kits have any iconography or accessories that you could stick on? Even a few lines to break up the surface would be useful. Maybe add some segmentation on the shoulders too.
>>
>>53303745
>>53303903
they were called crash coffins
http://shop.microartstudio.com/crash-coffin-2-p-873.html
>>
>>53303974
I wouldn't know, I actually don't use any vehicles at all in my army. I'll have a gander at my bitsbox, thank you! Any advice on whether the chest should be one with the cloak or not?
>>
>>53304046
The GW Fireblade has a nice braided clasp over it that adds a nice dash of detail. If you were able to greenstuff something like that on you'd be a good way towards solving your problem.
>>
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First Alpha Legionnaire I've mostly painted, using the Grey Knight made from a Sigmarine as a reference the height upgrades I gave the Rubric and the AL tactical should be enough to have them not look like total manlets.
>>
Anyone going to put a new thread up before this one dies?
>>
>>53301421
you could do a dark wash over those blue parts and make these 1000 times better.
>>
>>53302734
this is looking great except for the freehanding. the x-height on those runes is off and it just looks clumsy in general. if i were you i would paint over that and get a transfer or a stencil.
>>
>>53291437
Where did you find that servoskull anon?
>>
New thread?
>>
>>53305556
I don't remember. Most likely bought on bitz sale in local club.
>>
>>53305567
Page 10 and autosage.

go for it
>>
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>>53305567
New thread at >>53305901
>>
Guys I'm really bad at taking decisions. I want to start painting something warhammer from my grey armies. I'm a very slow painter as i paint mini after mini until they are well detailed. Choose:

-Night goblin army for AoS (moonclan grots)
-Tyranids for 8th edition (behemoth)
-40k orks for 8th edition (and which color scheme)
-space marines for 8th edition (ultramarines and deathwatch) (and no i dont care they are marinelets)
>>
>>53305911
I will say Tyranids if you want more room for detail, because you can be more elaborate on carapaces.
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I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


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