/wip/ WIP General

So lads, do you guys really get by alright using GW sprays as primers? My models keep chipping like a motherfucker.

>>53036981
I use them, they're expensive though

How do you motivate yourselves and break out of a block ?

I have a lot of work quite literally standing in a corner of my room, gathering dust. I was making progress but then went through a rough patch of life and stopped a few months back and while I want to paint I just can't bring myself to getting all my stuff out and starting up again. The main thing I want to continue is a warlord titan that I've completed the legs on (bar the main shin plates) but the torso, guns and head are only roughly blocked out. I seem to have built it up to an insurmountable project in my head and I just can't snap out of it.

>>53037077
I see cool shit on /WIP/ and feel motivated to make cool shit.

>>53036981
Wash the models with soapy water, then rinse them with clear water. Before priming of course.

>>53036868
Where's that pdf about sculpting with green stuff? Isn't it normally in the op?

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Finished my first Blood Warrior, c&c welcome, would also like to know how to do blood a bit better.

>>53037897
The paint job looks grainy for some reason.

>>53037679
I dunno man, I just copied and pasted this from the last thread.

>>53037897
clean up that red panels, there's a few gold splatters on them.

You remembered to close those paint pots all the way, right anon?

>>53038275
FUCK

>>53037897
neaten up some spots and dunk that motherfucker in some earthshade

>going from spess mereens to sylvaneth
>tfw going from trying to precision engineer the crispest, neatest highlight consistently across however many guys just to cry into my water cup, to being able to flick paint at a dryad from halfway across the room and get more than acceptable results

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>>53038462
>painting Tau
>tfw literally every piece of infantry armour has about as much texture and potential for drybrushing/easy edge highlighting as a piece of sprue
>having to engage maximum over-autism to even highlight one leg plate
the galaxy must burn

>>53037897
pretty good, for the blood get whatever imitation paint you use and put some on a stubby brush and flick it towards the blade to get a spray.

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painting an uesugi samurai with the monk head wrappings.

they're generally a white colored but faded. i was thinking of basing the wraps with a bleach bone color ans working my way up to white in maybe 2 or 3 layers slowly mixing my bone color with white.

any advice?

im new to the hobby and my english isn't great so sorry for my noob post.

Can anyone share advanced painting books or videos like figopedia or painting Buddha?

>>53036981

I've been getting this sort of gritty texture to my model when I use the primer, could it be the weather or I just didn't shake it enough?

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>>53037897
It can help to think about where the blood should be too. Where would the weight be in the weapon? How does he swing it? Where would the blade make contact and what direction would it be moving in? Where would that smear the blood? How would the blood run down the blade after the strike, and how far, given how much blood got on it in the first place.

>>53038959
Could be the weather, if it's extremely hot; more likely you're not spraying close enough and the primer's drying mid air.

>>53038992

Ah I see, thank you it's my first time priming so any advice will help. it's been relatively cool and sunny last few days when I primed (about 14°C).

I should note that I'm not using the GW spray, (Testors spray enamel) it was cheap so that's why I got it. I'm thinking maybe I should just get GW one.

>>53039053
I wouldn't get the GW one. I also wouldn't use enamel as an undercoat unless it was really, really matte.

>>53039053
Not anon you're replying to, but I sorta stopped using spray on primer altogether if I can avoid it as I've had problems like that with GW and other sprays. Using paint on primer for what I can.

Mostly to do with weather conditions but it could also be your spray yeah. GW sprays aren't necessarily any better though, as I've had the same sort of problem with them too.

>>53039074

Does the paint-on one only come in black?

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Finally took a picture of my warboss with a non crap camera. Any advice on how I can improve it?

>>53039164
How is he not falling through that thin crust of lava?

>>53039164
zog me, boss
only thing I can think of is maybe changing the base up a little? Feels a little lackluster compared to the absolutely fucking gorgeous warboss sitting on top of it. Iunno, maybe just add a bit more contrast to it or give it a light drybrush. Maybe put some rocks down or something? Your army, tho.

>>53039116
GW only does black but other companies, I think Vallejo or whatever, does a bunch of different colours.

>>53039164

lookin' gud boss

>>53039185
Uhh ork magik? I used his base to try out cracked lava before assigning it to him. I also wanted to have a bland base since he's colorful enough already.

>>53039201
Also just noticed that he's wearing chunks of scrap from 2(3?) groups of space marines. Black Legion/Iron Warriors? and Dark Angels.He's a cheeky git and I like it.

>>53039197

Cool, yeah I was just wondering since I might do white primed models in the future.

I'll give the Imperial Primer a shot since I am making Warriors of Chaos for my AoS army.

>>53039217
Yup, and an Imperial Fist as his groin plate.
>>53039191
Yeah, I'm planning on putting him on some rubble bases. Something nice and grey to contrast with the model.

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>>53039235
>getting two (you)s at once
is this what being popular feels like
you dare disrespect rogal dorn

>>53039164
I think that you could brighten up the bone on that trophy skull a little more, also the cooling lava he's standing on looks like crap. More white, orange, from starting in and spreading outward in that order.

Not a fan of lava bases either way since anything that close to lava would melt/burn, but these aren't my minis.

>>53039275
Yeah, I didn't have fun painting that skull. I wasn't confident in my knifework to remove it and potentially ruin a 30 euros mini, too. As for the base, it's temporary, wanted to try out lava bases and now that I did it, it's not really for me.

>>53037077
Schedule a game in a few weeks. That got me to snap out of it and start painting like a motherfucker because I hate breaking commitments and I hate fielding unpainted armies.

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changed up my color scheme and tried some new techniques and i think it came out great (beakie on the left)
what do you guys think?

>>53037897
he looks great
also for the blood just keep adding more toward the cent of the splatter so it makes a nice thick even goo

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>>53039513
second angle

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>>53037679
>Where's that pdf about sculpting with green stuff?

This one?

>>53039232
Imperial Primer is good, make sure you get a pot that isn't a thicc blob though.

Right now I'm priming some guys black and painting over them with white, but I'd recommend just getting white primer if you ever want a white base.

>>53039536
I think I'm seeing mold lines!

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Reposting my vets

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And these 3 dudes

>>53040457
>>53040443
I know you often get memed on but I genuinely love your army.
I'm not so sure about that bolter vet sergeant conversions tho. Something about the angle of that bolter seems odd to me.

>>53040457
Really good job on the eyes, especially for models that size. Although the guy in the middle looks a little spooked

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Working on some Heavy Gear Blitz minis. Northern Tigers in a desert camouflage configuration. This is the WOO, and the next image is the intended result (minus flocking, which needs to be done).

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>>53040588
*WIP
Autocorrect pls

>>53040443
They're pretty great, love the faces.

>>53040588
>>53040601
They're moldline-tastic!

>>53040588
Try to get better lighting for your pics m8. Make sure you take care of mold lines too. Edge highlights look unsteady and too thick.

difference between airbrush thinner and airbrush flow improver?

>>53040501
I think the problem is that bolters are really big, they look weird in normal human hands. Guess that's why they usually don't have them. I hate being that guy but it looks alright in person.

>>53040674
One will thin your paints, making them more transparent - use this to create glazes, while the other improves their flow, letting it pass through the airbrush easier - making the paint consistency somewhat similar to a wash if used in sufficient quantities. I use both.

>>53039164
d'as proppa orky, d'at iz

>>53040677
Yeah I have a problem with how hueg guns are in 40k myself. Wish they were more truescale.

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Painting Arkhan first, decided on bronze armour with gold trim for him. How's it coming out?

>>53040588
>>53040601
Moldlines. To be fair though, some of DP9's range has some serious quality control problems. More than once I've had to resculpt the whole front side of a rocket pod.

>>53040664
Thanks; I've got the right sized brushes for the job, but I'm gonna have to find some way to stabilize them better (my hands are a bit shaky).

>>53040674
Well, even flow improvers and thinners vary brand to brand.

Generally a flow improver will somewhat thin a paint without thinning out the pigment and breaking the surface tensions too much for it to cling.

>>53040832
Yeah I have the same problem. It might be hard for those models but try the technique where you angle the brush at 45 degrees and use the side to hit the edges, that usually helps for me

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Started working on some pathfinders. Thoughts?

>>53041724

anus eyes

>>53038688
What color are their kimonos? If Yellow, I would use grey -> white for contrast. Otherwise bleached bone works well.

What system are they for?

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>>53041724
Make sure you give the leader a command fin, like a zaku

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>>53041795
At least post the best blue zaku, anon.

>>53041724
Excellent color scheme!

>>53041893
No dear, that's not a zaku.

>>53042031
Neither is >>53041795

>>53041893
>>53041795

THEY IS NO ZAKU, BOY

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>>53041724
Needs some clean up but its pretty nice

>>53042315
Yeah those are really noticeable on the photo thanks for pointing out a couple of spots I missed as well. Will be fixed up.

>>53041979
Thanks!

>>53041795
>>53041893
I think my battlesuits are going be fixed up with some fancy heads now.

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Im finishing my DKK sniper team/shadow of war specialist/Vindicare count as/lascannon count as.

WIll post the spotter later

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Been working on an old Typhus due to Death Guard hype that I had primed a very long time ago. It's a bit grainy especially at the bone bits from whenever I primed it back then but I'm digging it. Just need to finish up a few more details.

Repainting these old guys coupled with starting on Nurgle Daemons is damn fun.

>>53042471
Looks amazing! Great sniper for Shadow Wars. Assuming he has 'toxic' rounds to make the chance of murderizing anything it hits almost absolute.

>>53037897
if your using citadel paints, the technical blood for the blood god is pretty awesome

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Has anyone here used the darkstar molten metal paint range and can comment on it?

>>53040588
your paints, you think your thinning them, but thin them more.
besides that those some pretty kewl gundams bOss

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>>53041795
are you trying to trigger me anon?

>>53042594
i had a friend who bought 600 ameri-bucks on fw thousand sons a week before the announced the new models. he hasn't touched them at all.
what im getting at is how did you resist not getting rid of this knowing that gw is coming out with a new typhus model?

>>53042799
Oh this guy is an oldie I never got around to painting when I quit warhammer I think 7 years ago. I just recently got back into painting and was looking through my old collection of Death Guard dudes and figured I'll paint him up with a few others that were primed but not readied along with my focus on Plaguebearers. Worst case scenario I reckon is that I end up getting another Typhus.

>>53042681
Well.

My mind went somewhere else entirely when I saw that thumbnail.

>>53042471
Looks amazing! How did you get that kind of leg pose?

I need around 4-5 paints, but nowhere online seems to carry citadel paint anymore? Do I really have to pay GWs silly prices?

so I wanna make some banner poles using toothpicks


I'm not gonna have trouble painting them am I?

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>>53043122
Its this guy with a different pair of arms taken from the firing dkk squad

Magnetic Tape good enough for sticking the Onager Dunewalker's guns onto the mini?

What paints and primers should I start with as a beginner who has a backlog of over 200 minis already?

What's the best white primer I can get? Doing primarily-red DE, and I've been burned by Rustoleum primer before.

>>53040588
>>53040601
For stuff like heavy gear I'd unironically get an airbrush.

>>53040501
whats off about them?

>from somebody who is getting his first box today

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£7.99 for 200ml on amazon. What's the catch?

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I've been working on this troll, and realized when I started painting him that his bottom teeth and fangs are missing... Anyone know any bits I could glue in there? I tried searching and couldn't really find any. I'd hate to have to try to gs it

>>53043619
>a backlog of over 200 minis already?
>What paints and primers should I start with
An airbrush. Start with an airbrush. You'll save more money and time than you could ever imagine.

>>53038688
Your models are badass, love it.

>>53039943
That's it. Thank you

>>53044530
It looks about the right size that you could maybe carve some teeth from toothpicks with a scalpel

>>53043619
How does that happen?

>>53040426
dont tell anyone!

>>53042681
yeah I have them and they are good imo

>>53039513
>>53039536
Prerty good. Just practice on getting thinner highlights and you'll be good to go.

I would consider doing the pauldrons in black if I were you, but my Carcharodons are much darker as a whole, using a darker grey for the armor and black for shouldet pads.

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Finished venerable for my Guardians of the covenant

>>53044530
I was about to recommend what >>53045032 said and cut up some tooth picks. Any time there's spikey bits missing from something, toothpicks are often times the best option I find. I was working on a juggernaut and a spike that was supposed to be going through a skull broke off, so I drilled a little hole and jammed a cut up piece of toothpick in there. Worked perfectly.

I think a few bits of toothpicks should work fine for a set of teeth.

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>>53045865

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>>53045889

>>53045865
Lovely work!

I was going to make a venerable dreadnought as well before realising my Chapter wasn't into bling so it would make it look weird. I ended up with a rgular looking Dread.
Same reasons the veterans will be a pain in the ass to build, I probably won't use the Sternguard boxes, too much gubbins.

>>53045865
Looks great! Nice job on the metallics. Idk if its very recognizable as a GotC dread, but it still looks pimp.

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Finally broke through my Imperial Guard block to paint this Baneblade for an Apocalypse game on Sunday. Having painted superheavies on the board really thins my paints, I'm just glad I can contribute to that now.

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>>53046096

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>>53046096
>>53046125
Looks like a very nice job, too.

Kudos, Anon.

>>53039164
There's no balance at all. The yellow on the armor is mixing with the lava base and the whole thing just looks like a confused mess. The paint application is very well done, you just need to think out the scheme a little more

>>53040457
I think your valhallans are great, but could you start some new units or something? After seeing the same photos (or different shots of the same ten minis) 100 times I'm totally sick of them

How hard is it to do a 2 part greenstuff mold?
I have a very small, flat bit I made I need to make a mold of, and I only have greenstuff. Ive made a 1 part model pretty well but this bit has details on both sides. How would I go about doing this?

>>53046125

dat searchlight

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WIP Kill Krusha.

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>>53046196
Im currently working on a squat lascannoneer and 3 valhallan missile launcher teams. Ill probably buy a chimera soon and then stop my guard purchases till 8th, thinking about converting some Eldar Corsairs for my guard, kind of like mercenaries my guys hired to fill gaps in their army. Currently making the bits for them and molds for them to cast, so for the most part ill start posting new stuff excluding the missile launcher team i suppose, theyre different sculpts and have missile laucnhers but theyre still silly faced valhallans.
Dont blame me, blamed 1994 guard sculpts, they only made 9 different lasgunner models, the guys with the camo are my 3rd squad of them, so ive bascially painted the same model at least 3 times.

>>53046437

Thanks, man - I murder myself doing them on all my tanks, the Baneblade was a celebratory purchase after completing my 5-tank Emperor's Fist Armoured Company

Is Abaddon black work on Chaos black? I used Leadbelcher for the plating and rims on my Trukk and I (being new to painting and all) got it on the tires.

>>53047564
Does*
I grammaring gooded

>>53047564

Abaddon black has a slightly different finish from the chaos black spray iirc.

>>53046573
noice

>>53047564
>>53047668
if you were to do it properly you'd have to paint the mini with the abbadon black instead of letting the primer show.
But ain't nobody got time for dat.
Depending on if you use varnish or not you may not be able to tell the difference afterwards anyway.

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Anyone here have any experience with the Blood and Skulls Capricorn conversion kit? I was thinking of getting one but I'm on the fence.
Does the normal Chimera turret still fit, or can you only use the new turret?

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weathered for desert environment. Not really sure about the results but was a decent learning experience either way.

>>53047868
the splatter makes it look more like mud than sand, but regardless, the final result looks really nice.
Well done, Anon. These look badass.

>>53047962
yeah agreed the spatter was a mistake. But like most weathering it is too fun.

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>>53046096
>>53046125
nice anon, be sure to take and post some pics of it in apocalypse action surrounded by it's russ sibblings

i started painting my deathcult assasin, blanchitsu of october 2016 featured an inquisitor warband that was painted on a gold basecoat, it lookes cool so i'm trying this. pic is gold, one layer white and a very thin light grey wash. it looks better irl but it needs lots more work

not sure what to do with the corset and head armor , if the white turns out how i want maybe goldish with nihilak reincorced with more blues/greens/oxide colors, i have some oxidized brass fittings as reference

>>53047564
>>53047626
Yes, although as Duncan will tell you every time he uses it, it does have a different finish, so you best coat every black surface with Abaddon Black.

>>53047868
Very cool. Echoing what >>53047962 saud the effect reminds me more of mud than sand, but it looks great.

>>53048255

>6.63MB

that's a record surely

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Here's one of my Marines.Haven't added the symbols yet though.

>>53044557
desu if we count my tau army I've bougth mostly second hand, it's closer to 400. So i came across my old heroscape stuff and said "these'll make good rpg minis, but realized I didn't have enough for most genres of games, then I bought a lot of 140 mageknight clix of ebay for like 40 bucks. then a few lots of heroclix, and then a seperate lot of heroscape because it was cheap. i don't plan on repainting all of them just the ones where the paint job is really shitty or near unusable. Like Hydra agents the random mismatched colors of the same unit in mageknight,. now I'm looking also for alternative wargame rules to get more use out of them

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Okay let's try this again.
WIP of my Kriel Warrior standard bearer, specifically the flame. My first time doing something like this.
I feel like putting straight red on the flame like guides suggest make it look a little gaudy, but I'm not sure. Thinking of maybe a darker orange.
Thoughts?

>>53048581
meant to reply to >>53045335 as well. Also best source of cheap bases? that will comply if I decide to flock or add other detail later?

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>>53048604
Second shot

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Are there any books with high res images of many Space Marine chapter designs? Pic related, although I'm not sure of the title of this book

>>53048897
That is the 2nd edition ultramarine codex.

Insignium Astartes and the Index Astartes books should have what you are looking for. Both can be found in the OP post in the 40k general.

If you check out the bolter and chainsword there is a thread with all the schemes from the Successor Chapters books that came with the last collectors edition of the SM codex.

If you check out Lexicanum it should also have an (i believe) illustrated list of Space Marine Chapters.

>>53048897
This image, to the best of my knowledge, has
the color scheme of every loyalist chapter that has one.

>http://djnnayt.deviantart.com/art/All-Loyalists-Space-Marine-Chapters-425805126

Weird wet palette issue. When I put paint on my palette, it seems like the paper pulls the water through and out of the paint, so it goes from one spot of pigment+water to scattered spots of just pigment. Watering the paint down just worsens it. Any idea what the issue is?

>>53049140
>>53049167
Oh shit, thankyou!

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I finished one of my brother's nurgling models. He'd left his army half-finished a year ago and I offered to finish it for him as a Christmas gift. I know there are some bits of sprue and mold lines that I would have taken care of if it was my own army, but my brother said he didn't care and he would just be happy to have it finished rather than me going back and having to re-do everything.

I used Army Painter spray primeer, quick shade dip, and matte spray varnish, with some Nurgle's Rot as a finishing touch. Pretty happy with the end result. I think nurglings are a great model that are unfortunately a real pain to paint. I think dip is a great way to make the details pop without driving one's self insane.

>>53049490
*correction: he left his army unfinished about 2 years ago. He was making progress but he simply didn't have the time or patience to keep going with it, since painting isn't really his thing and he got a real job.

>>53042799
>i had a friend who bought 600 ameri-bucks on fw thousand sons a week before the announced the new models.
that is bad luck

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>>53042799
>>53049718
You wanna talk bad luck? I got into Fantasy Battle and bought my army less than 2 years before Games Workshop axed it.

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>>53049490
blessed be, brother! i too love nurglings but they are a bitch to paint. especially if you dont sub assembly them. the best way i found was prime them white, shade them, then do the details.

>>53048897
the burning of prospero painting guide has a full page guide for each of the founding chapters, but theyre in heresy-era schemes

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>>53036868
Finished my first joker henchmen, a real joy to paint. :D

>>53050164
Didn't you post this yesterday

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>>53040443
That's genuinely lovely, Anon. You took some minis people would be quick to write off as old sculpts and really breathed some new life into them.

>>53050224
Yeah, but the thread died shortly after so I decided to repost it, just this once.
I'm halfway done with the second henchmen now, will propably post some new pics tomorrow.

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>>53042799
Mfw I heard the rumor about the new DG a few days before it was announced and managed to quickly sell my halfway painted DG army to some poor fucker. He was propapbly furious when he saw the trailer the next week.

>>53050453
>yfw you don't like the new models

>>53038688
Finally some historics! Great job, man. I'd love to see more.

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So first model ever painted. Thinking of making the shield red, touching up, and coloring teeth and eyes but thoughts?

>>53050690
some more colour would definitely improve things.
When you paint gold never start with gold, you'll never get a good coverage that way and it'll just turn out streaky, do a basecoat of brown or bronze first.

>>53050105
White + shading would also be a good way to do them if dip isn't for you. If you don't sub-assemble though, they are a real pain as I discovered.

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>>53050690
looks great, just needs the details like eyes and teeth to bring it to life:)
and like
>>53050739
said, start with a base layer for the gold, unless you're using retributor gold, thats good enough to go on as a base.
pic related, all the trim done with one layer of retributor, then a wash and drybrush

>>53050739
>>53050991
I am using retributor for the gold, but u have some xv-88. Should I apply that first?

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Im gonna airbrush a hellbrute but i think i wanna magnetize the arms but never done it before, would i magnetize before or after painting.

if before what should i use to avoid getting paint on the magnet?

>>53051220
magnetise before, and i dont think it matters if you get paint on the magnet

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>>53051220
>if before what should i use to avoid getting paint on the magnet?

Before, and >>53051287 is right - it doesn't really matter, because you're not gluing those parts. You can use masking fluid if it really bothers you, though.

>>53051356
>>53051287
ahhh ok thanks

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What's gonna my best option for green signal smoke? I want to make my base for my Corvus Blackstar into an LZ. Is painting some cotton pretty much the way to go or is there anything I can make that's maybe a bit more resilient?


>>53045865
Das it, mane.

>>53051405
besides, if you're using rare-earth-elements or whatever theyre called (the super strong small ones used for hobby modelling) the force with which they attract is going to grind off any paint on them anyway. so make sure theyre not visible to the eye, i suppose

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Working on recreating ghazzy from my favorite piece of art of him

>>53051509
you can get sculpted smoke plumes from armorcast. The newer GW sculpts also often have these kinds of details.
You need to know what you are doing to make them look good though.

If you google around a bit you should be able to find tutorials for making smokeplumes out of flock for Ork Stormboyz. Basically you glue the flock over wire and then paint it.
It gives you a much rougher surface than the armorcast stuff I mentioned. May not be the right flavor of smoke for you.

I'd recommend having a look at the armorcast bits to get an idea for what it could look like.
I think they were originally designed to fit into the smokestacks of warjacks from Warmahordes and come in a few different sizes.

>>53051798
These billowing smoke plumes might just work. It may be a bit rough to blend the pewter using green stuff into a smoke grenade for the right look but I think it's doable. Thanks- ill check out the wire+flock strategy too, you're right that I'm looking for soft-ish billowing smoke.

>>53038492
OOOH he steel reel mad bout Nanking

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Hey guys, got some WIP of my Elysians, other models for scale. Found it incredibly frustrating and tiring to deal with resin. Washing them, losing tiny little parts as I try to stick them together, and then finding even after 3 passes I hadn't brushed them off 100%, with the paint on primer I use not adhering properly to some sections.

Need to do a lot of cleanup, washes, and all the rest of it. No idea why they feel so much harder to paint too, been trying my best not to go too thicc on these puny models but I've had to do at least 3 passes of paint before it even got to this level. I swear, Cadians, Mahrines and Scions are a breeze compared to these guys.

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So I got pic related without realizing that it's resin. Why are they such a pain in the ass to remove from the sprue? Does anyone have tips for working with resin? I haven't done anything with it before/

>>53053872
if you clip something resin off a sprue, and the part is smaller than the sprue nub, you have a fair chance of cracking or splitting your model part.
i learned the hard way you can solve this by submerging the sprue in some hot water, enough to make it a bit bendy, then it handles the tension better and wont snap.

>>53053923
How hot?

>>53053976
for me, a bowl of hot tap water, but i have gas heating so my tap water gets really hot. maybe boil water and let it sit until you can put your hand in it without hurting yourself. cut a bit of resin sprue off and test it with the water until you find a temperature that makes it bendy.
also, dont forget resin models are sprayed with a kind of mold-releaser grease or something, and you need to gently brush it off with a toothbrush and some warm water, because if you apply paint to the model with that greasy stuff still on it, the paint will flake off later.
i also learned this the hard way.

>>53044530
So, I realized that the highlights on him looked awful and so I gave it a wash which ended up making it look really dirty but I think I like it better. Toothpick teeth soon™

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>>53055086
Forgot pic

>>53053764
I feel like I might regret it, but what is that abomination in the background?

>>53036868
Anyone got recommendations on what I could use as chains?
Planning on doing a ass-tart holding up a string of deldar helmets for context.
I was also just thinking of doing a woven rope out of GS.

>>53053764
your primer is black? That might be the problem.
That basecoating is horrible though anon.

>>53053764
theres not a lot we can say anon, it's inarguably sloppy work so far. definitely room for improvement, and maybe yellow isnt the best colour to start with for a new painter, but keep it up and dont get discouraged!

>>53038309
>dunk
No no no no nope

Brush into recesses only or you'll fuck up flat panels

>>53055156
you can get small chain that, if treated with sufficient amounts of liquid super glue, will hold it's shape.
Look for anchor chain in model shops and the like.
FW used to sell some, and I know GS industries sell it.

>I was also just thinking of doing a woven rope out of GS.
If you twist some wires you get a rope that will look more regular and will also hold it's shape.
food for thougth.

>>53055211
I hadn't thought of the wires, that seems like a much easier way to do it.
Thanks boss.

Can I get away with not thinning a metallic silver for a base coat? I hear it's iffy to thin metallics with water and I don't have any solutions.

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>>53055299
i dont thin metallics, judge me

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What do you think is tabletop standard for horde armies? More specifically, the infantry?
Basecoat/wash? Basecoat/wash/single highlight?
Personally I'd say it depends on the type of model. Like, I'd say you could get away with a basecoat/wash on a whole lot of gretchin.

>>53055326

I don't have an eye for these kinds of things but I think the metallics look good. So that's a good sign.

>>53055327
Tabletop standard is what you're comfortable with.

>>53055299
I wouldn't. I base with Balthasar gold, using a wet palette and it works pretty well. I usually have to do two coats , maybe three if I didn't take excess water off my brush. Usually goes the same with leadbelcher.
This is going on white primer however.

>>53055341

Well I am using a wet pallette and white primer. So that's also handy to know.

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>>53055334
just be reeeeally careful not to use too much paint

>>53055354
just don't be shocked when that first coat goes on very very thinly. the second coat will look much better.
I usually go balth gold, usually in two thin coats, then i'll either wash then layer, or go right to layer if I'm planning to coat it with clear red after.

also, if I find I put something down to thick I'll usually wash my brush out then moisten it to help spread the excess paint over a larger area.

>>53055338
>>53055327
The best definition I've heard is that tabletop standard has enough details to look good at the distance you see models from on the tabletop.

What's a good color to use as a shade for Lothern Blue? I've thought about using ye olde nuln oil, but it seems like it'd darken things too much.

>>53055842
Tabletop standard doesn't have a clear definition. The absolute lowest common standard you could use is 'tournament' meaning 3 colours, every part and surface painted (and maybe a wash/ dip).

Everything else really depends on your scene and, to a lesser degree, personal preference. If everyone else you're playing with has amazing paintjobs, then that's your tabletop standard.

>>53036981
a 30$ airbrush is better then the GW primers. Much thinner layers.

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>>53055200
>not dunking and neatening up later

>>53055102
What's with the cracking paint on his back?

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>>53049490
>Pain to paint.
Amen to that, even with subassemblies. I've got another start collecting set on the way and the nurglings are not something I'm looking forward to. I'm surprised at how good the dip actually looks.

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>>53045865
>>53045889
>>53045908

Ave Mortikah, Brother!

Alone, we stand proud.

Nothing beats the Guardians of the Covenant.

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Does /wip/ like my Gore-Gruntas?

I ran out of Earthshade so the third one sits unfinished, much to my dismay.

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>>53056480
Other piggy

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>>53056488
Another angle on the big pig.

>>53056480
>like my Gore-Gruntas?
I think the sculpts are abysmal.
That is not your fault though.

The painting looks pretty good I gotta say. My main point of criticism would be that the overall drybrush makes the model look dusty.
I like strong cartoony tones though, so at least the yellow could do with a touch up imo. That may just be personal preference though.
Something a little less specific to my personal tastes would be the skin.

So far it looks pretty decent too, but I think you could bring it to life by adding some color variations.
Some super thing red glazes over the lips and noses for example or a purple/green under the eyes, depending on what you are going for.
Areas where the skin would be more flushed or softer.
I think that would pay off especially on such a big creature.

>>53056546
Yeah i am considering glazes and some more red around the lips.

The dusty appearance is what I was going for. I want them to look like they've come out of the dusty desert.

>>53039536
>>53039943
Painting could be a bit more accurate but it's a really nice colour

>>53044529
That one doesn't work, it even says "negro" on the bottle there

>>53039513
>>53039536
the non-Deathguard paint scheme, right?
Looking pretty good there!

What did you end up using as main color?

>>53039185
Because lava is molten rock.

Even an orc is not dense enough to fall though rock.

>>53044529
Vallejo Washes are ok, but nowhere near Citadel wases

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>>53056643
>Even an orc is not dense enough to fall though rock.

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>>53056643
>Even an orc is not dense enough to fall through rock.

>>53056108
are those colours done with washes or an airbrush?

>>53056926
It's basically targeted washes and glazes. No airbrushing.

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>>53057292
beautiful work mate. any tips for painting them like that?
mine are... drab

>>53056232
Ave Mortikah, brother.

>>53055953
Probably Agrellan Earth.

>>53055117
http://www.oathswornminiatures.co.uk/p/9144261/lady-jayne-death-fox-assassin.html This, I got it from Salute. Not finished painting it yet, is also a WIP.

>>53055173
Yeah I have black paint on primer because GW doesn't do white and I was too lazy to order any more online. Went over black primer with basecoat white on my most recent Elysian but that takes more time.

>>53055194
The thing is I'm not even that much of a new painter, I've painted over 100 Cadians and they were incredibly easy compared to these. I've even got what I think are some pretty good Scions done. These Elysians are just so much harder to paint! If I'm not satisfied in the end I might try and find a way to strip the paint and try again.

Does anyone have a recommendation for something to strip paint from resin?

>>53047868
I've always found that space marine peeking out the hatch really funny looking

>>53057847
regular strippers will work but never leave them in for more then like, a day at most, or they'll start to make the resin rubbery. i left a model in some methylated spirits for a couple hours once and all the little bits broke off it

it was like a sixty dollar model too

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>>53057472
To be honest the main tip is just don't use drab colours. I base them very bright pastel colours (pic related) and use bright coloured washes to get the main skin tones - mostly bright blue and sepia (bright brown lol) and sometimes small amounts of bright yellow, bright red and bright green. Then a darker blue to shade the recesses.

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Anyone here use Secret Weapon Washes? I'm trying to use some on my Trollbloods, but it's making my recesses very shiny.

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>>53058619
i tried brighter colours initially but wasnt happy with the results. well, i have another squad of nurglings now, so i'll try again with your way. thanks!

>>53058739
Those don't look too bad as a start. Obviously it's worth pointing out that mine are painted individually, each with his own set of washes.

>>53058689
I haven't but they look pretty cool, some nice colours. I've mostly been using gw washes.

>>53058689
Wouldn't a thin layer of matte varnish fix that?

>>53058689
Is there a table of the corresponding names?

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>>53050334
That's my favorite, you can make any old ass sculpt look amazing, it just requires skill and patience

Have any of you ever tried salt masking?

I'm giving it a bash on some terrain and I just can't get it to work.the top layer of paint comes off before the salt does, am I using too much hairspray?

>>53058739
>>53058837
Oh it's worth saying too that the main washes for the skin colour are applied at the same time. So for example the bright green nurglings have a blue base, I cover them with sepia and water, then while that's still wet some yellow and then while that's still wet a small amount of bright green, soaking up some of the excess fluid with an empty brush. Only the shading and brown bits and boils are done in layers afterwards.

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>>53036868
Guy please help.

I'm doing some xps (pic related) terrain in a batch and I'm about to paint it. For models I have vallejo game color and army painter primer but I seem using it for terrain as a waste (~10$ for a can here).

Often in this threads you are suggesting some cheap primer spray paints from wallmart for fellow americans.
Problem is I don't have it here. I'd love to use spray paint to get into the gaps fast but after visiting 5 paint stores and 2 general construction stores everything I found had acetone in it.

What do /wip?
Am I doomed to use my precious expensive 17ml bottles to paint huge terrain pieces?

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For the Emperor!
This is a platoon standard bearer for my Warzone-to-Imperial Guard army. He is holding the Cadian company standard, from the plastic command squad. However, I've filled the bullet holes with green stuff so the flag doesn't look so ragged.
Also, he's got a Cadian chainsword to hack up heretics and xenon who want to defile the standard with their grubby hands, but I've replaced the all-around hand guard with a just-in-front guard: part of a paperclip and some green stuff.

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>>53059366
God damn it!

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>>53059403
Here is a view from the front.
I was a total idiot when putting together this model, and it is really unbalanced. At first, it couldn't stand up, because the flag moved the center of gravity so far forward. The back half of the base's underside is filled with pewter flash chunks I hacked off the slots of some Vostroyans I had lying around, so now he only falls over if someone gently breathes on him.

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>>53038981
It's basically a Klingon Bat'leth with some extra grimdark thrown in.

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>>53059366
>Warzone-to-Imperial Guard army

Did the plastic Warzone set come with any big shootas?

>>53059271
If you're priming foam, don't do it straight up. You have to do a couple of coats of PVA over top, or the aerosol will eat away at it.

Rustoleum sandable automotive primer is the stuff people typically recommend, I believe. Gesso is another alternative, which should be at most art supply stores for a relatively inexpensive price.

>>53039164
I think he looks great and I really hope they use the Orruk models as a base for new plastic Orks in 40k.

>>53059271
If you can't avoid acetone, one option is coating the foam in watered down PVA or wood glue first to protect it.
Mix a drop of colour with it so you can see what you have covered so far.
You can also add textured stuff to that mix as well, like spackling or sand, to give your surface some detail.
The downside is that the glue will come apart after 5 or so years and crack the paint off.
Brush on watered down art store acrylics as a base if you have to. Spray primers are nice, but not necessary if you have budget constraints.

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>>53059467
Yes, it did! I posted this guy a couple of days ago--I've converted one of the big shoota guys to hold a Cadian flamer, instead of the gatling gun.

I want to cast the plasma gun, melta gun, and grenade launcher from the Catachan command squad and magnetize them, so I can have swappable special weapon troopers. But I haven't gotten that bold yet.

Just a note, the model you posted is a Warzone Imperial Trencher, a metal model. The plastic guys are Warzone Imperial Regulars. They lack the cloaks, and are less chunky than the metal trenchers, who I believe were earlier sculpts.

>>53059476
>Gesso is another alternative, which should be at most art supply stores for a relatively inexpensive price.

On thing you have to watch out for with gesso is that it shrinks considerably as it dries - see the link in the OP. This is quite the benefit when applied to infantry models, where the shrinking causes the gesso to hug the models' details like primer, but when applied to a flat bendy surface like cardboard or (Nigel Stillman's favourite) cereal packet, get ready to fight some *serious* warping.

One trick we learned in art college to mitigate this is to coat both the front and the back in gesso, even though you were only planning to paint the front. This causes the drying gesso to pull in both directions simultaneously.

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>>53059467
Here's a front view of my big shoota to flamer conversion.
If you'd like, I can give you a picture of the shoota trooper sprue from the plastic box set, too.

>>53059568
True, but I don't think MDF has the warping issue.

At least it looks like he's used MDF as the base.

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>>53059530
>who I believe were earlier sculpts.

Yeah, these are the old Warzone Second Edition Trenchers. A friend of mine gave them to me in a batch of models to be melted down, but I pulled a few choice pieces out of the pile.

Da Prince August ladz have the molds for these now, and you can still get the old Warzone/Mutant Chronicles models from them in metal. I occasionally consider getting a few of the Doomtroopers for use with the Siege of the Citadel boardgame.

>>53059486
>>53059476

Shiiieeet. So no fast and cheap way of doing it?
If I'm about to cover it with a layer of PVA I can go straight to my cheap acrylic primer in a tube.

I wanted to limit the brushing for detail making, as shit ton of miniatures are waiting out there for the same luxury..

>>53059646
>no fast and cheap way of doing it
Not without acetone free spray sadly.
That's why we like it.

>>53059646
>So no fast and cheap way of doing it?
Pretty much. Terrain's a bit of a hurdle to do. Probably why so many people cheap out on it.

I find it relaxing to do some terrain in-between fiddly miniature projects, though.

>>53057823
Yup, Agrellan Earth

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>Forgeworld relase agent shit on resin should pads never fucking come off
>primer wont stick
>Already on the models, can break if I take them off


How about I spray them, even though it wont stick very good. Spray with "purity seal" or something, then spray black again?
Or only do seal spray and then black primer.

Would this work? Would it get too thick or not stick properly?

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Making some Nurgle Ogres for my army.
Currently I've finished building one of them.
What do you guys think about it?

>>53059625
Nice! That's a sweet find. I think the Imperials and Bauhaus in particular have some nice metal models.

On a different note, how is the Siege of the Citadel board game?

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>>53059568
>>53059602

>>53059568
>>53059602

>At least it looks like he's used MDF as the base.
Nah, it's a very hard cardboard that ust came with some stuff I ordered online to keep the shape of the package. It is prone to twisting with moisture thou (used watered pva to glue rocks on it before).

Also
>gesso
That's my problem with luring you guys.
Except for manufacturers like GW/vallejo all the stuff you mention here I can hardly find.
If it is - it's twice the price because imported.
Finding a replacement is hard because I'd have to be exactly sure major ingridients and look for them here.

I had the same struggle when trying to do my own washes, everybody used some kind of floor polish described by brand unavailable here, so I used my local one and God only knows if it worked good or not and if not if the soap was to be blamed or me.

Comming back to gesso - I bought some elastic "plaster" / "finishing putty" that can be used to fill drywall joints but is it the same that you guys use? Dunno.

>>53059817
>but is it the same that you guys use?
Sounds like you're talking about spackle/polyfilla, there. That is one way of protecting card/foam from spray primer, but it's very different from gesso.

In broad terms, gesso is an alternative to primer. With finishing putty you'll still need to prime afterwards. That said, drywall filler makes for a pretty great texture on rocks and building walls. Much nicer than plain foam.

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Good afternoon, /wip/.
I recently came across http://s1370.photobucket.com/user/weirdingway1/library/?page=1 , and Im absolutely shocked. I keep thinking about his craftmanship and attention to details, and I grew jealous of him. I want to be like him.

Can you help me identify some of the bits he's using on some specific miniatures?
Do any of you know if he has a webpage/tumblr/blog whatever? I found this pictures in an old forum and his posts were from 2012/14.

I'll post a few of his works.

Any people got tips for someone trying to paint models, but with coordination and eyesight problems. I diabetic, and durning my last sesion, I was told to start up a hobby. I did paint some models, mostly dwarfs, but it was a long time ago. Right now am thinking about painting some small army for maybe Infinity or some other skirmish system. I just can't find any guides that would work for me.

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>>53059771
>On a different note, how is the Siege of the Citadel board game?

Honestly? It's more fun than Space Hulk; similar in some ways to the original Space Crusade, but with more options (players can buy different kinds of upgrades for their models in between missions) and variables (each team of Doomtroopers have something special they're good at) to it.

>>53059817
>Comming back to gesso - I bought some elastic "plaster" / "finishing putty" that can be used to fill drywall joints but is it the same that you guys use? Dunno.

I'm not sure if the two sentences are conflated here, or if you're comparing gesso to plaster. Gesso isn't putty, but rather a thick (but still liquid) acrylic primer meant for artists to prepare canvasses with prior to painting. That you can (*must*, actually) brush it on also makes it applicable for miniature painting in locales or weather conditions where using spray primer is a bad idea.

What country are you in that you can find GW, Citadel, and Vallejo products, but not gesso?

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>>53059963
His vision for miniatues is astounding, like that Junkhead short movie.

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>>53059997
What material could I use to attain such results? This does not look like green stuff.

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>>53058619

>>53046164
I think that was intended. Really gives that "scrapyard" junk look to it. No rhyme or reason, just stick pieces of armor on.

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>>53060009

>>53060009
from the looks of it he's cut his green stuff with either miliput or brown stuff

Pretty common thing for sculptors to do. Just look for sculpting tutorials online, man.

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>>53060019

>>53059976
>What country are you in that you can find GW, Citadel, and Vallejo products, but not gesso?

Probably Italian/Spanish/Portuguese speaking one.
'Gesso' is the Italian word for white plaster and the first thing one thinks about is a white powder. I assume it's the same for other latin countries.
Hence his confusion.

>>53060019
WeirdingWay posts on Ammobunker and Ex Profundis.

Here is a link to his Inquisitor 28mm thread, where he posts lots of his work on the Navigator household. You can find a TON in the 57 pages of work. He is sculpting the heads with sculpy or clay, I believe.
http://s3.zetaboards.com/The_Ammobunker/topic/7667496/1/

Ex Profundis, where he is an infrequent contributor to the blog:
http://www.exprofundis.com/
This is far less enlightening for his process than the ammobunker thread, but it is filled with tons of sweet panting and conversion, nonetheless.

>>53059963
He has a log over on the ammobunker and he's been featured on Ex Profundis a few times.

I agree, he brings a new aesthetic to 40K - there's strong anime, french and classic sci-fi vibes that come from all his models

A lot of the parts he makes he sculpts himself, like the big heads on his Navigator House there, but otherwise he creates a lot of things by cutting things apart into absolutely tiny pieces and then recombining them - the shoes on one of his miniatures were made from parts from 4-5 different models once, if I recall correctly.

Oh, he also took part in the Pilgrym project, so you can probably find some of his stuff on Iron Sleet as well.

It's his painting style I'm most envious of, especially his latest Navigator House with the pale grey and weathered yellow.

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>>53060089
Hey, a fellow Blanchitsu/Inq28 fan?
Nice to see a few of us on /tg/, in the /WIP/ thread no less. You gave pretty much exactly the same response I did, albeit with links which makes it more helpful.

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In a completely unrelated post, I stumbled across this on eBay this morning.

>>53060089
>>53060119
Thanks, thanks a lot. I was afraid I wouldn't be able to find any information about him but deep down I knew /wip/ would not fail me. I'll get soaked in info and start to do some stuff myself, I happen to have way more fun making small stupid conversions than playing wh40k, this will be a turning point for me.

Thanks again.

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>>53060153
>Hey, a fellow Blanchitsu/Inq28 fan?

Blanche is indeed awesome, but the picture in >>53060153 is by Ian Miller (who is also awesome).

>>53059710
Holy shit that Eldar is thicc.

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>>53060189
Oh I know, I just wanted to post that pic. I have a few Ian Miller artbooks as well as Ratspike which is a heavy blast of nightmarish absurd imagery. Here's a Blanche.

>>53060153
Yes yes! I just discovered Inq 28 and the Blanchitsu aesthetic early last year. I'm the guy posting the Warzone guys up thread, and I found Inq 28 through Kraut Scientist's blog, where he had a review of the Warzone box.

I love the creativity and skill--it's a treat to just browse blogs and logs and see the cool stuff people have schemed up. Although my modeling and painting skills are, sadly, nowhere near their heights.

>>53060267
If you like browsing through blogs then please let me shamelessly shill my own - there's a whole bunch of Inq28 stuff on there, though I'm obviously no way near the luminaries such as Bruticus, Neil101, weirdingway and the like.

https://theprimordialtruth.com/

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>>53060364
Thanks for the link, and shill away without fear! You've got some awesome stuff--that Swamp of Desolation board is amazing, and I love Absolver Donatien de Rais and his Altar of Cenfession.

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Been away from tabletop for like 10 years, returning to 40k for 8th edition!
Got my army painted up and fully onboard the hype train.

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>>53060068
>>53059976

Nah I'm polish and in terms of the language the first thing that came to my mind was some gypsum derivative.

I can find original gesso here in some online stores but I was looking for cheaper replacements, after investing in 20 vallejos, AP primer and plastic glues, cutting/modeling equipment, wood/PS materials etc.

shortcuts are more than welcome - especially for first terrain making.

The problem with finding materials is my complete illiteracy in terms of artistic products. I discovered that there are acrylic and oil pants like weeks ago so you got the image.

>>53059698
>Pretty much. Terrain's a bit of a hurdle to do.
That's a bummer because from various terrain making videos it looked like there are lots of ways to achieve good effect and here I am, stuck with my styrofoam ruins. Everything went smooth untill I realised, I won't find a spray paint to paint it easily.

>>53059675
>Not without acetone free spray sadly.
Well I guess I should have sticked to cardboard, square buildings but I got my hands on a piece of xps and wanted to carve some 3D rocks.

>>53060493
You're Table Top Ready©!
Get in there and give them hell, Space Marine©!

>>53060493
Decent tabletop standard, could use a wash in nuln oil

>>53060625
They look pretty good so far.
I hope you manage to solve your primer issue and get them painted up.

>>53060625
Go on youtube and look at a channel called TheTerrainTutor. Tons of videos (tutorials, funnily enough) and he's done a few where he talks about priming and painting terrain.

His Back To Basics playlist might be especially helpful for you, seeing as you're new to this.

>>53060625
PVA glue and regular spray primer's probably the least painful option for you, I think. Water it down, maybe do two coats. You could use that gap filler, but even then going over it with PVA afterwards once would be smart, since although it's tough, the stuff chips easily.

Bit of a hassle, but with a big cheap brush it's more of an idle timesink than anything. Just throw a movie on in the background while you work.

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Hmm so somewhere along the way it seems like I've lost a metal plaguebearer. Will have to cobble one together with spares to make up numbers I think.

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>>53060758
>TheTerrainTutor
Ye I watch him from time to time, never looked for priming advices thou, definitely gonna check that up tonight.

>>53060763
>>53059976
Also, as we speak about gesso I realized that I might be the biggest retard and actually have it here with me (pic related).
It's really gluey, elastic and not so white as I could expect after drying out.
I bought it in Brasil at some craft store and use it for priming all my minis so far. (I don't speak much portuguese, girl said she uses it for plastic so I took it).
I just thought thats the way regular primer PAINT looks like when it's in a pot instead of spray form.

Is THIS gesso guys? If yes, should I stop watering it down before applying? Looks like without it it could cover all the details.

>>53060728
Thanks, me too. I might actually have entire table ready before I even chose my wargame. So far I'm training on Zombicide minis and after 50 very similar guys - the terrain making, even if most of the time I'm lost, gives me a relief.

>>53060166
>johnny that actually ships to US
I CALL IT

>>53061016
I found a blog (in Portuguese, so use whatever translator you like) talking about exactly that stuff.
https://www.spruemaster.com/blog/2010/09/usando-primer-acrilex/
According to him, its a water-base acrylic primer suitable for painting on and use in airbrushes.
Should work fine on your terrain, but test it on some offcuts first. Water it down if you need to.

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>>53061016
>Is THIS gesso guys?
No, that's just primer, for metal (metais) and glass (vidro)

Gesso is usually labeled as Gesso. You should be able to find at least one brand of it at an arts and crafts shop.

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Got all my models build (except pauldrons and Jetpacks for Assault) for this summer. Just need to prime the last ones and airbrush the grey basecoat on all the models before I start packing my stuff. I can't take all my equipment on holidays with me, so that has to be done before I leave. Then I can spend 3 months painting those beauties whenever I'll have some time.

It's A LOT more than the total amount of models I painted throughout the year but I think I can do it.

>>53061198
Good luck m8. What chapter/warband/legion/whatever you doing?

>>53061150
>>53061162
Ok then. Thanks for the lesson guys. I'll just get that gesso online and for now use this brazilian pimer for my pieces.

>>53061272
you don't really need it, man

if brush on primer's what you've got, that's all you really need

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>>53061206
Charcharodons.
They're actually all right to paint if I can get the basecoat down properly, it's just a case of adding the metal and the black and white details like the faceplate, knee/elbow pads and such.
Really happy with the Anvil Industry Chainaxes, kinda bummed I bought so many right handed, I should have gone half and half instead of buying all 20 or so of them left handed.

>>53061389
>Charcharodons
I figured as such when I saw how many chain axes and how few spikes your marines had. Anvil makes some fucking awesome weapon swaps though, I'm gonna buy a bunch of those chain and power spears probably tonight and maybe some of the upgrade kits for them to strap a bolter on top of the spear. I wanna make my KDK warband's thing as using spears over chainswords, but I only thought of it after I already modeled half my assault squad with chainswords. Oh well, some unit variety never hurts.

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>>53061099
>>53060166
IT STARTS

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Look at those mold lines....on a real tank.

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>>53061532
>bidding this far before the sell date
It's like they want to drive the price up

>>53050334
People who hate on old sculpts can go to hell.

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>>53059710

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>>53060991
Much as though plastic kits have made everything easier, it always feels like there's less character to them than the old metal models.

>>53058689
They dry relatively shiny, true (I have a full set of all colours), but the matt varnish finishing up the model will fix that problem.

>>53059568
>(Nigel Stillman's favourite) cereal packet
Is this really a thing or just a meme?

>>53062028
Not a meme, the bloke loves Honey nut Cheerios.

>>53061301
I know, but i checked OP's gesso tutorial and it looks like a great alternative for priming.
+ that bottle I showed is almost over and the only thing I'll have left when it's over will be army painter black primer.

So this gesso looks like a way to go anyway.

>if brush on primer's what you've got, that's all you really need
And I'm doing that right now. I wanted to take the can spray route to speed things up and have an alternative for future projects.

>>53061603
Bidding, especially early, scares a lot of people away.
You'd be surprised how many won't bit at all of they know someone else is going to fight them tooth and nail for an item. They worry that the price will be undoubtedly driven high enough to make even watching the auction not worth the time. This keeps all but the most diehard from bidding, keeping the price low ironically enough.

Mind games, man. Gotta mess with their head.

>>53045710
Better than other paint lines?

>>53055872
Afternoon bump for this.

>>53062143
That's insane

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>>53062028
>Is this really a thing or just a meme?

Nigel Stillman was with GW for a long time - since before the Dark Age of Technology - and was one of their master terrain builders. He wrote their How To Make Wargames Terrain book (from which this image comes), published in 1996. He was also fond of balanced, fluffy armies, even if it meant he wasn't going to Win At All Costs; he's the kind of guy I could imagine being into Historicals and refighting battles between King Charles's Cavaliers and Cromwell's Roundheads over and over again, just to see how small changes in luck or tactics played out each time.

Anyway, GW frequently published him in White Dwarf. He even had his own column, "Stillmania" for a while. When he would talk about the materials he used or would use for a particular build, he would often suggest thin, flexible cardboard, and the phrase "cereal packet is ideal" showed up a *lot*.

>>53059710
https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resources/PDF/Datasheets/Working_with_ResinFW.pdf
>We recommend priming your model with a fine matt car body primer, such
as can be found in most hardware stores. Some model primers don't have
the required solvent strength to adhere to resin properly on their own
Don't know if it helps.

>>53062069
>I know, but i checked OP's gesso tutorial and it looks like a great alternative for priming.
oh, right on then

>>53055872
>>53062176
>Shade for Lothern Blue?

Is Drakenhof Nightshade too obvious?

>>53062227
>That's insane

I know it *sounds* insane, but >>53062143 is right. I will frequently skip over auctions that already have bids on them - especially if it's for a single model that I might find elsewhere - simply because it is often not worth the hassle of battling someone who is attached to that particular listing.

>>53062389
Oh no, I wasn't denying what that anon was saying. Just remarking at how nuts it is that people do that and it works

>>53062389
Seems a bit of an extreme jump, but it could work, I can test it out and see if it's too my liking, thank you for the suggestion!

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finished my Commander. Please forgive the dings and scratches, I got it off ebay when I started the hobby back in 2009. The past owner had painted it with some kind of gooey car enamel paint. Was a nightmare to get off.

Gave him a gorget, giant belt buckle and modified chestplate to account for Iridium armour and status. Arms and most weapon options already magnetized, just need to get some ideas on how to build Ion Blasters and Airfrag launchers.

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>>53060493
What the royal fuck.
>>53060668
>>53060696
I sincerely hope you guys are just trolling.

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>>53063502
>What the royal fuck.

Yeah, I totally think >>53060668 and >>53060696 are 'avin' a giggle, but then, >>53060493 couldn't possibly have been serious to begin with.

>>53063502
I know right? A Disney paper cup? Anon, get a proper Citadel Water Mug, otherwise stellar paintjob, solid Tabletop ++.

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>>53060493
>AoB marines
>unevenly smeared what I hope is paint and not phlegm
>not a single model based
>not a sinle mold line removed
>using a NEWSPAPER as a color pallet

Oh God I'm dying from laughter. That princess cup is just icing on the fucking cake.
That's pure gold material right there.

>>53062421
Once in awhile I'll get annoyed about it if it's something I kinda would like but not desperately, and splash back a few early bids just over theirs to fuck with them. If I win, cool, and if I lose it's secure in the knowledge that the pantswetters aren't getting away cheaply with their bullshit

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owo, wot's dis?

>>53064082
Dragon Dildos are definitely under the category of "Hobby toys" so I'm saying that.

>>53060493
I've not seen this picture in years, how nostalgic

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How do you paint very old school all black sunglasses like in pic related? The blended black to grey look