WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

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My lascannoneer for my Veteran squad came in, though there's something off about him... seems a bit short.

this model is older than me by a decade

the Soviet Union was a still a thing when he was made

>>53007052
>yfw you finally worked through all the unpainted pewter

How would you base Dark Eldar?

I'm starting a DE-heavy force partially as a distraction from my Marines and partially as a challenge to myself (can I build an entire DE army using nothing but Scourge boxes, Reaver boxes, vehicles, and the occasional bits purchase? hell yeah I can). That said, I'd also like to do a different theme for them from the tundra rock of my main force. I haven't settled on a color scheme yet, but what's an actually-interesting scheme that would fit?

What are some options for painting horses? Brown with highlights?

>>53007052
>We've got a really exiting video for you today because today we're going to show you how to paint the new Adepta Sororitas Battle Sisters!

>>53007059
At some point I bought a meat grinder 2 years ago. Box was in russian and there a big ass CCCP on the grinder itself. Mother Russia never leaves you anon.

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>>53007146
>What are some options for painting horses?

Here are some.

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>>53007146

Here are more.

>>53007185
I laughed. and then i broke inside...

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>>53007118
A while ago I wanted to start an Deldar army too, but I realized how foolish that is considering that I've spent the last 7 years collecting miniatures and only painting ~5.
Anyway I though about doing something like pic related. Kind of like the first scenes in Alien.
Was gonna make a few spiky protusion like that that could fit on a base, cast them in resin and then blend them into the base with texture paste.
Something along those lines.

Hi guys, what gw paint do i apply to xereus purple as a fine highlight? Screaming skull? Pallid wych flesh?

>>53007295
Yeah I know. To be fair the gloss does legitimately look much better irl than in the photos. Problem is we are selling our house and I just wanted him done and varnished so I can pack him away. I was intending to do a white and red pattern not dissimilar to your suggestion and will revisit when I get round to painting some plague drones.

>>53007331
>>53005071
this thing recommends genestealer purple.
If you want you could highlight it with the colors you mentioned though.
Depends on what you are going for really.

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Almost done... All I need to do is build the filter.

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>>53007109
>mfw when I've worked through all my unpainted lead

>except that will never happen

>>53007383
Yeah, gloss effects can be tricky to capture without professional photography.

A miniature is never finished, I suppose, and you're right that you can always go back and work on the carapace some more when you're more stable and have the time.

So who's got the best shades on the market?

I'm trying to do very precise recess shades, and I want some of those washes that just wick right into all the crevasses. I've been using GW, since they have variety, but anyone know something better?

>>53007391

Thanks!

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Repostan because it's important

>>53002595 #
I recommend finding out what kind of models you want to paint first: eldar, ogres, marines, frostgrave soldiers, skaven, skeletons, malifaux gremlins or whatever.
Then, find the most prominent colors used to paint these. For gremlins you would want some bright green for the skin and maybe blue for the denim, and whatever for whatever details you have, while for skeletons you want cream colors and metals, and maybe browns for leathers and rags. Yiu get the idea.
Then, if you want to use citadel colors, use this chart, and pick the darkest and the brightest tone of the corresponding color -on the LAYERING side! - and also the wash. When startig out, the midtone can be sufficiently cheated in by mixing the oher two, so don't worry about this yet. For example, if you want cream colors for the bone, pick up Zandri Dust, Screaming Skull, and the wash seraphim Sepia. For green skin, waaagh! flesh, skarsnik green, and biel-tan green. Etc.
If you want to use eome other brand, which is often freferrable, the process is the same. You just need to find the appropriate colors yourself, as I don't know them. Do mind that the washes from citadel (games workshop) are considered to be great, so I recommend you pick up at least some of these. It should also be noted that you can skip some of the washes and just use others without fucking shit up too much. A pot of agrax earthshade and a pot of nuln oil will work on almost anything, at least while just starting out.
This should build a nice starting range of colors at least. If you don't go crazy and buy lots of different types of models, he number of pots you buy this way should be quite small.

That's my tips on the paints at least. You also need to get a pair of clippers, an xacto knife, plastic glue (the one with the metal needle from revell) and pencils of course.

Oh yeah, and primer, which is not! paint.

So in the last couples threads I was asking what people did with their spare pieces and sprues and so far it seems like sprues are kept for improving things and the spare bits I'm still slightly more confused. Ive also heard a little bit about conversions but on that im totally confused still. I asked the first place because I was kidna on the fence on whether or not I should magnetize my basic boyz from my starter kit since It came with a pretty huge amount of spare arms.

>>53007519
look into pin washing with oils.
Mig might even sell something premade.

>tfw when duncan says your first and last name in a video but you've never sent in a request

Can anyone recommed a way of painting a bone style armour?

>>53007686
>tfw a britbong couldn't even pronounce your name

Fallout Wasteland Warfare is on the horizon. I need nice 32mm bandits, raiders and soldiers.
Help?

>>53007716
google around for deathwing painting tutorials.
Tale of painters and from the warp are pretty good hobby blogs that should have one each iirc.

>>53007650
I have used sprue to make a rusty garbage punch dagger for a bottom tier skaven, sling stones, decorative spikes, base texture, and wyrdstone markers. You keep your spare bits to give yourself more options later; if you want X dude with Y thing that doesn't come in that dude's kit, you look through your spares for something useful.

>>53007731
well fuck.
I wrote a whole novel about this before captcha decided to fuck me over and eat my posts.
Anyway.

Games that are somewhat flexible in scale
Sulphur by TerraGnosis
Eden by Taban
Punkocalyse by some french company I forgot the name off.
Mad robot does pretty 'heroic', i.e. big 28mm minis that might work for 32mm.
Use their raider bits and replace the heads and arms with something that is appropriate in size and they might look ok.

28mm is a way better scale for this though.
You'd be able to use a wealth of zombies, zombiesurvivors and the like as ghouls, civilians, raiders or beatlords.
There are some pretty neat mad max style minis kicking about.
Warlord sells the old Wargames Factory survivor and biker kits that would be prime conversion fodder. Even come with guns that fit the setting.
Tribals could be represented by any number of historical miniatures. Copplestone, Perry, Northstar, Foundry and the like sell any number of indiginous people for various periods that would be useful for that stuff.

Have a look around, in the wake of the last Mad Max film a lot of stuff you could use sprung up, but 32mm limits your options somewhat.

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Finished my enginseer dude.

>>53007756
ah good call, i'd forgotten about deathwing. cheers for that.

>>53007519
Gloss varnish your mini beforehand to break up surface tension. The wash will flow right into the recesses. Also look up how to make oil washes on YouTube.

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>>53007976
>28mm is a way better scale for this though.
Be that as it may, the game is 32mm

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>>53007650
Those are sprue bits.
They are very roughly cut, because they're not meant to be nice, but you can still make decent stuff. That anon who made a stalagmite of rock with sprue bits for his Kharadron is a solid example.

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My Termies are finally ready for the Agrax. Any suggestions on the chapter of the impaled Marine head?

>>53007981
Looking good.

>>53008059
Looks green already so I would say Aurora Chapter.

Failing that, what colours go well with green? Use thay colour.

>>53008059
Space Wolf

>>53008058
>>53007846
I for sure want to try doing stuff similar to that with my sprues. Its been kinda hard for me to choose what arms I wanted to put on each of my guys its kinda the reason I was wondering about magnets or not so damn much that starter box came with a lot more than I had expected and its made choosing a little hard. Doesnt help that I dont know jack shit about rules or anything like that, kinda just considering putting boyz together based on looks.

>>53008059
Obviously Ultras

>>53007219
>>53007236
thank you!

>>53007021
Airbrush yes or no?
I'm really contemplating buying one.

Is that overkill just for miniatures?

>>53009117

just do it. Worth even if only priming/base coating.

>>53009153
Are there any comparisons of miniatures painted with brush and airbrush?
I really want those smooth blended edges, but that's kinda possible with much blending too.

What kind of airbrush and compressor did you buy?

>>53009247
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and generic chinese compressor.

The one with a regulator but no tank and with hindsight maybe should've got the tank.

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>>53007021
So I've got a bunch of stuff I wanna convert, but I wanna hold off until the new edition in case I make something that I can't use in-game.

Decided to throw together a quick barricade from Stronghold Assault out of some leftover bits and sprues. About to start tidying it up before I realised they might change the Obstacles list from Stronghold Assault too..

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First for Waaaaagh!

>>53009383
>>53009247
>>53009153

I >>53007400 got an Iwata Revolution BR and a noname compressor with a tank, regulator and moisture trap for ~$300. The booth has cost me $150.

It cost quite a bit, but from what I was willing to do without a booth, airbrushing is fucking magic. I push a button and a perfect coat of the color appears on the model.

>>53009497
Oh, I got a kit from TCP global.

I can't believe I didn't get one years ago. It's such a nice experience.

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Finished the main coat of gold and the shading. Tomorrow I will do touch-ups and highlighting.

>>53009497
>It cost quite a bit, but from what I was willing to do without a booth, airbrushing is fucking magic. I push a button and a perfect coat of the color appears on the model.
Got any comparison of before and after?

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I'm stuck guys, how do I go about highlighting this red for a bike? I know which colours to use but unsure how to actually make it look like a reflection of light, highlighting the corners just seems too easy. Do I just try to have the colours spill down from the edges?

I'm painting up a squat, anyone got some old school paint job style photos of them?

>have tournament next week
>want to bring my Kastelan Robots
>only half finished and still need to do some Skitarii weapons
>spent the last 2 weeks playing the shit out of Overwatch because the game had an event
Fuck.

And here I was last time around, swearing to myself that I wouldn't try to last-minute finish my models for the next tournament.

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Anybody have an idea what my blood reaver chief can have for his left arm? I tacked on a knife just to see how it looks, but it bothers me that the knife on his belt would be drawn with his left hand so he shouldn't already have one drawn.
I'm not sure if he should have an empty hand (like he uses two for his big axe) that's pointing or fist, etc. Or if he should carry something like another weapon, severed heads (like starter set), buckler, or something else entirely.
Any help would be great.

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>>53010521
Maybe try and find some decapitated head and give that to him somehow? Or generally an arm holding a decapitated head.

Something similar to pic related would seem fitting.

So I'm seeing a lot of talk of airbrush use. If I'm just getting into the hobby will I have to buy an aibrush to have my models look decent or is it better if I learn to paint properly first?

Will soaking my plastic models in alcohol to strip paint weaken the plastic?

>>53007400
nice pc man

>>53010619
>will I have to buy an aibrush
no
>to have my models look decent
airbrush is just another tool. You can be shit with a brush or an airbrush. Neither is a magic win button. In order to get good results you'll need skill with both.
An airbrush can speed priming or basing up and make certain things like gradients on large surfaces easier. It's a time saver more than anything.
>or is it better if I learn to paint properly first?
As I said. Both tools have to be learned 'properly'.
Unless you plan on painting hordes of miniatures or need a faster turnaround because you are doing comission, i.e. time is money, you can get by fine without an airbrush.

>>53009572
Lookin nice.
I always wondered about painting miniatures for board games, what will you do to protect the paint from wear and tear?

>>53008058
Man, I really like those bases

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>>53010573
The only issue with that is it makes him basically the same as the other chieftain from the starter set
Pic related (not my painting)

>>53010852
Oh, I see, wasn't aware of that.

Maybe give him some kind of icon or banner?
Might be a bit of a challenge, but giving him a torn, bloody imperial banner as a trophy could also look pretty sweet.

Anyone know a way to get a dirty, stained look on armor? I was thinking of letting the wash dry unevenly, and a friend suggested some thinned down Rhinox Hide

>>53010055
Depends, where do you want the light to hit?
Basically have the brightest area be where the light hits, and move down/away to darker colors.

>>53010521
>>53010852
you could turn his axe upside down and turn the heroic pointy thing into a broodingly standing around thing.
That way, even if you put trophies into his left arm as well it will still look different enough.

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>>53011101
paint the dirt first and then do a drybrush with metal.
The harder you drybrush the more 'polished' it's gonna look.

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What the fuck are these tiny bases GW keep giving me for? Who actually bases minis with this bullshit?!

>>53009599
Not really anything worth showing. I used a drybrush painting style because I had so much of a pain in the dick getting thinned paint to flow like I wanted it to off of a brush so there isn't really much of a comparison, and I've only painted a few test models since I got the brush. I'm going to go to the DIY store this weekend to get the last parts to build the filter bucket for my spraybooth, and then I'm going to spend some time painting.

>>53011215
Oh, I see how that'd work. I'll give it a shot.

>>53011235
>buy a kit
>be confused about which model the bases in the kit are for

?

>>53011314

I meant the bases are too small and the minis don't look good on them. Instead of providing larger bases with the kit, they're stingy and give the smallest size.

>>53011423
Because they're large enough for regular, small miniatures and are intended for actual play, where base size actually does matter.

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filthy mon-keigh's titan never reach 6'1.

>>53011423
what did you buy anyway?
If it's old stock you might have gotten 25mm pre-32mm-revolution bases with your marines.
Other than that not many base sizes changed recently.

>>53011526


Necron Warriors, the older box, so that checks out.

Best way to magnetize infantry for SWA? Orks, if it matters.

Is there a better way to get deep lipped bases than by cutting the top off regular GW bases and putting a new plasticard bottom on them? Planning out sea themed DE, trying to figure out how to get proper sea bases with water depth for my Scourges.

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>>53011235
>What the fuck are these tiny bases GW keep giving me for?

Those are 25mm bases, anon. If you've purchased Terminators or a Devastator Squad lately, that would be for the teleport homer and Armorium Cherub respectively.

>>53011947
you can buy hollow bases from secret weapon miniatures.
They're kind of expensive for what they are though.

>>53012113
I've seen them, but a. they're awful shallow, b. they're resin and I already spend way too much time hating my resin models' material to do more resin work.

>>53012125
>a. they're awful shallow
Well the GW bases are only about 4-5mm high and if you want a bottom in your bases there is no way make them deeper without resorting to thicker bases.
Not sure what you expected.
>b. they're resin and I already spend way too much time hating my resin models' material to do more resin work.
They're the only hollow bases with beveled edges I know of though.
Cleaning them with detergent is the only work you have to do to prep them though. No assembly required.
You could opt for round lipped bases, as you can get those in plastic, but then you're dealing with different base sizes and an entirely different style of bases.

I mean you can check out reaper, mantic and other to see if you have more luck, but afaik these are the only two options you have.
Resin bases or a different style. Or do them yourself of course. But they're not getting deeper.
You could cast your minis in transparent resin after they are painted, but that could end up looking terrible.

This be worth a shit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-30k-space-marine-sprues-/152530675894?hash=item23838968b6:g:JDMAAOSwONBZBcC-

>>53012256
Fair enough. I was just wondering if anyone knew of any other options. I've seen much deeper *display* bases, but that's obviously a different concern. From what I've seen, the GW bases will be deep enough to work with.

>>53012331
I've been looking into the same thing for a while now (for swamp bases), but the SWM bases are the next best thing to hollowing the bases out yourself.
I haven't found anything else like them either.

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>agonize over getting a Chimera for months
>Armored Assault boxes come out
>even more tempted, agonize even harder
>decide not to since I don't have the money right now and that I should work on what I got already
>ff 5 minutes
>get message from friend
>"Hey man, would you want go halfsies on that new guard box?"
>"I just want the guardsmen, you can have the tank"
Welp, daddy's got a brand new Chimera for his Inquisition. Should a pretty fun build. Not sure how much I want to "your dudes" it up, but I feel like I should. Inquisition is the best faction for it after all.
Leman Russes' look good on Chimera chassis, but how do Chimera look on Leman Russ chassis? I can't find a picture of the conversion in question.
Uh... asking for a friend of course.

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>>53012294
>This be worth a shit?

If everybody stopped bidding right now and you walked away with it, it'd be a good deal. Considering it's still got three days to go, though, it's a bit pricey (assuming I held the high bid, it's already ~$32US with shipping included) for us Yanks. It's roughly two squads of ladz - one set of Mk III, and one set of Mk IV - from the Burning of Prospero and Betrayal at Calth games.

>>53010825
Easy answer would be to varnish it to protect the paint from chipping.

Same as you'd do with an actual painting.

>>53008059
Whichever loyalist chapter your army has the biggest beef with or if you have any friends that play marines, that chapter

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>>53011785
In the arms, of course.

>>53012902
>if you have any friends that play marines, that chapter
Seconding this.

>>53012294
Nice, you can get Custodes for 1/2 msrp price with free shipping. Who else /goinggold/ here?

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Slow going but still enjoying working on this model.
I'm unsure about the leaves appearing out of the insides of her robes though, currently thinking about having them slowly blend in to turquoise, the red I normally do leaves in is a bit too similar to the robe lining

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>>53011171

Made an attempt, considering sharpening the corers with some Orange.

Had a good idea. I can't do it, I have to many projects... but...

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5PzJhU8iI0
>French Revolution themed renegade guard
>Either pro-Tau, Chaos, or just generally uprising
>Civilian heavy in design with lots of red flags and weapons
>Heavy use of barricades

W-what models would I possibly use if I were to do this?

>>53013494
historicals?
Ask for appropriate minis in /hwg/. They should be able to help you out.

>>53012932
Magnets, how do they work?

>>53013552
My hesitation is: wouldn't historical models look horribly out of "scale" with 40k?

>>53013494
Try and dig out some of the old Empire Free Company sets from WFB and give them 40k weapons. They're about as close as we're gonna come to civilians in the 41st millenium, with the right paint job of course.

Other than that you could go rebellious workers with some Genestealer Neophyte Hybrids, but their look is very distinctively, uh, Genestealery.

>>53013731
40k isn't to scale with itself.
FW Elysians are what you would consider truescale.
GW cadians are heroics.
FW Krieg have truescale proportions but are an entire head taller.
Old metal lines are more or less 1:1 compatible with the Foundry minis.
Warlord minis would have slightly smaller hands than IG metal minis, but otherwise be pretty close in scale.
Now, perry is the only real truescale line that you'll have more work with. But then you can just plopp arms from victoria miniatures on those and use them too.

As long as the army is internally consistent it's gonna look fine.

>>53013873
Would either the Krieg or Elysian weapon sets work on Warlord minis? Or would I have to figure something else out

Does anyone have experience with Testors Paint Pens? I want to do writing on the tanks for my IG army a la Soviet WWII tanks, but I don't have the brush control to do that with just regular paint. Are Testors a good choice, or should I go with something else? I'm primarily looking at Testors simply because the place I work at sells them, so I'd be able to get them decently cheap.

>>53012932
Red rova', red rova', send Bonecuttah right ova'!

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Anyone know any bitz sellers that have specifically the Sammael on jetbike kit? I need a part for it for a conversion project and can't find a bitz store that sells it.

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I need more time to paint. Life just has a way of interfering. Almost done with these ladz, though...

>>53014251
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Dark-Angels-Sammael

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsammael+40k.TRS0&_nkw=sammael+40k&_sacat=0

Or you could mention the part in particular. After a quick loo around though, the only individual part I could find was the bike, but it was listed as sold out.

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I opted not to glue the arms onto my black knights before painting because I knew that the spears, arms, and shields would make them a pain to paint, but now I have a new problem-- how to I spray prime these parts without leaving them on the sprue or leaving a bare spot where they were stuck into blue tack? Is there a spot I can drill a tiny pin hole that won't be noticeable when they're glued together, but will give me something to hold it in place while I prime and paint?

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>>53009572
HEY YOU, I HAVE A QUESTION

I want to rebase my Dark Souls minis when they come in. What size bases do I need for things like

>the player characters
>the Hollows and Silver Knights
>the big guys 4u
>the bosses

I bought some 25mm bases but I have a feeling they're too small. I have some 40mm bases but not nearly enough

PLEASE JUST GIVE ME A STRAIGHT ANSWER FOR ONCE IN MY LIFE

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>>53014447
Thing I've seen people done is to get something long, usually a stick of some sort like pic related. Glue or bluetac the part to the stick, prime/paint while attached. Remove the part when done and glue to the model when you're ready for full assembly.

In the regards to the bluetac leaving a bare spot, I wouldn't worry about that too much. It might be bare of primer, but if you're really worried about it then just use a little bit of paint on primer to cover it up.

If you absolutely want to do the pinning option, then go into the shoulder where it would connect to the body. Just be really careful and make a pilot hole with a hobby knife first.

>>53014501
Going off of the image there, looks like Bigs is on a 50mm, or thereabouts, and Smalls is on a 40mm.

But I don't have any of them, so this is just eyeballing it.

>>53014398
I just need a few copies of the big aquila prow on the front. Thanks for the links though.

>>53014565
>>53014501

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/steamforged/dark-soulstm-the-board-game/posts/1736773

Ctrl+F shows the base sizes for a couple of the large bosses.

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1564720/minis-basess-size
Tells the game's scale.
"it's 32 mm figures, so I'm guessing the bases are going to be about 25mm/ 1 inch."
That second page is from close to a year ago though.

>>53014622
I saw those, which is what lead me to buying those 25mm and 40mm bases, but I guess I'm just getting nervous or double guessing myself?

How do I make painting less stressful?

>>53014690
Watching this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss9XJtmarYA

Makes me think 32mm and 40mm would be more accurate sizes, unless the guy doing the review has baby hands.

Guess we'd have to wait to see someone who actually has the stuff post to show a comparison.

>>53014539
Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I've got wooden skewers.

>>53009572
RECIPE !!!!!!!!

..please :)

>>53014729
Put on some music or a podcast and start off with simple base coats. Figure out what the majority color of the miniature will be, and just go with that first. Do secondary colors and take your time to make them neat. It's likely you aren't on a timer, so don't rush it. If something goes on wrong, no big deal. Just paint over it. Certain colors might look real shitty when you first apply them, like yellows and oranges. This is because those colors typically have really weak pigments. The solution to this is to base those areas in a more pigmented color and gradually layer up to the intended one. So with yellow, a good starting place is white, and then gradually putting on thin layers of yellow to build it up.

Unless you have Parkinson's. In which case, RIP in pepperoni..

>>53014780
I've been painting for a while now, I understand the basics. I still want to throw my army in the garbage any time I start painting.

>>53014794
Then next easiest solution is to get practice miniatures and work on them until you feel more comfortable with your end product.

Reaper Bones models or the newer pre-primed wizkids stuff would be a good cheap option.

Just work on small stuff like that until you get where you want to skill-wise.

>>53014251
Go to /hhg/ and ask how the anon used press molds to do the same thing you are. Unfortunately, you will have to buy the whole model since it's too niche for people to use the various parts for conversions

I really want to use the 32mm Imerpialis Sector bases for my Scions, since they look way better than the 25mm ones, will I be thrown out of stores for doing such a thing?
Also minis always look way better with bases 1 size larger than what they're packaged with.

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>>53014865
I think we're on different pages. I have no issue with my skill level. I know I'm not great and that's okay, not everyone is.
I'm not okay with burning two weeks of free time to do a tactical squad. What's pictured here, plue one completed model (so one 80% done, and two with single coats of silver) is the culmination of probably 10 hours of painting. The dreadnought on my shelf that's less than 70% done has taken me almost 18 so far. I'm burning time and have a shitload of backlog to get into, and I'm reconsidering whether I even want to stick with my guys now that 8th is dropping and I'm probably getting fucked in the edition transition. Fortunately most of what's on my shelf is resin that didn't cost me all that much, but still.
My newer bases look way better than these, pls no bully.

tl;dr my concern is not skill but speed, and I'm only getting slower as I work on these more

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How'd I do on my chariot?
Still need to get in and do their eyes, thinking of gold or one of the 3 gemstone colours.

>>53014952
Then perhaps you should have asked "How do I improve my speed?" rather than
>>How do I make painting less stressful?

The answer I can come up with best then, still just practice more with a focus on speed.

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front view of the steeds

>>53015011
photo is garbage, put the mini down against a white background and try again

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>>53015041
>>53015011

>>53014952
With those marines have you considered just priming them silver, it'd definitely speed things up.
Army Painter - Chainmail

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>>53015058
My webcam is shit and I don't own a good quality camera, sorry.
>>53015086
My phone is old and I spend too much on Warhammer and alcohol to afford a better one

>>53015105
Well, it's more than a little late for these guys, for better or worse. I've got more on the shelf, but frankly, I don't want to touch Leadbelcher again for a long time after I get through this squad.

>>53014952
Get some music playing or something that sort of keeps you from overthinking things/gets you in a rhythm. I think of it sort of like running, if I run with no music, no matter how much I try to get my mind to drift, it keeps drifting back to how boring/tiring what I'm doing is. If I'm listening to music, it distracts me from how I feel about what I'm doing and let's me sort of focus on what I am doing, if that makes any sense.
Doesn't have to be music, for painting, sometimes I listen to tutorials or movies in the background.

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Base coat and washes are now done.Don't think it will take me long for the highlights. Was also thinking of putting weathering and scratches on the bike, thoughts?

>>53015849
I feel like the metal parts on the front of the bike could use a little more nuln oil.

>>53013731
Leave 40k behind. You will be happier.

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>>53013494
I toyed with the idea of a DIY renegade faction of marines called the Red Templars, and they would literally be Knights Templar as Space Marines. They would be outlawed by the Imperium because they are an overtly Christian organization and their charter calls for the retaking of Jerusalem, so they have lots and lots of enemies.

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>Getting back into crafting after hiatus
>Day before yesterday, prep and remove lines from figure, loctite it
>Today with good weather, prime it and leave to dry while I work
>Excited to spend some time tomorrow painting it, go to remove figure from primin' stick (pewter hot-glued to wood)
>Legs snap right off
Is it going to fuck with the loctite if I paint over it in 10 hours? For that matter, do I need to prime over it?

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What do you all think of converting something to the point that it no longer shares much with the original model?

The reason I ask is I have been floating the idea of trying to make a drop knight or that is I have a huge boner for the Elysian Drop troops and I want to make an imperial knight fitting for the theme of deep strike badassery. That said I know that I will never have deep strike rules for the thing.

Do you all think this is a promising Idea?

So far I had been thinking I would use some engines off of a stormraven I have to replace the exhaust stacks on the back of the knight.

Place a few thrusters around the core of the knight as Maneuvering thrusters.

Skeletonize the armor in places and use a metal mesh like anti-rpg mesh.

And finally lasers, lasers everywhere. For weapons I would have a chainsword/multilaser on one arm and the other would be a lascannon array from a rapier battery or a turbo laser from some other kit.

Oh and also the heavy stubber on the hull of the knight that would be a multilaser too.

Thoughts on this plan?

>>53016609
Rule of cool, nigga. If it looks good, most players will ignore any rule breakage. If it looks like shit, then your ass is grass.
All you have to do is make it look cool and you're golden.

>>53016519
Isn't it heavily implied that Jesus is the big E?

>>53016609
As long as it shares a base size and roughly the same dimensions only cunts will give you a hard time. Most often people are happy to see and play against an army that's had a lot of love and attention put into it, as long as they can tell what's what.

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Contemptor's getting there. Time for some basing.

>>53016668
No. The emperor was a militant atheist. As soon as he died the Imperium basically reverted to extreme Catholicism except they replaced Jesus with the Emperor.

>>53016726
Those are some ace rust effects mang. Hairspray technique?

>>53015011
>>53015041
>>53015113
oh, that Slaanesh grill again
well, your model looks nice so far

>>53016663
>>53016681

Well then when my bank account allows expect update on a knight. If all goes well I should start on this project by July. First I need to get some cash, and make some preparations. In particular I need to check that all the parts I want to use will mesh together and so on.

>>53016749
you could tell through those potato pictures? Not to say the quality of the paint was bad it is just how can one determine the paint job of the model when the camera has 4 pixels?

>>53016743
Thanks - I pretty much just went nuts on it with a piece of sponge and rhinox hide brown.

Had never actually heard of hairspray weathering but now I'm looking at some videos. Pretty rad.

>>53016750
If you're this into drop troopers I wanna see the rest of your army.

>>53016609
that is awesome and try to work around it. If you have a good friend to play with you can give him deep strike for the appropriate points cost or you can create a scenario just for it

>>53016729
While true that he was very anti-religion, it came from seeing what it did to humanity while he guided us from the shadows.

It's well known that he shapeshifted and was many important people throughout history.
It's plausible that before he attained his anti-religion views, one of his attempts at guidance was as a great prophet.

>>53016726
The sponging is good, but you should really connect all those fine specks of brown with a few, irregular brush strokes. Doing so will make the effekt seem more natural. Also think about some fine silver scratches in the middle of that rust to give it some depth.

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Finally started applying paint to my Orks.
Ended up going with a Deffskull theme to match the swarm of already painted bikers I've got.

Gonna tool the vehicles up with some freehand in red&yellow, flames, lightning bolts n shit.

>>53017082
Grey primer always triggers me.

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>>53017082
Anyways, question is, how do I do the looted russ?

I feel a full hull in bright blue will look like shit/"devalue" the blue.

All I've got so far is doing the rhino front on the dozer in blue, to echo the looted predator.

>>53017103
Right? It just makes me assume for some reason that the plastic hasn't been primed at all. Fires up my tism like nothing else.

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I'm going to start painting some swordmasters soon. Pretty standard colour scheme like pic related.

I can't decide whether to use grey or white primer. What should I use? A metallic primer isn't really an option because I want to use something I can also use on other units that aren't as metallic as Swordmasters like spire guards.

>>53017103
My trigger is people shouting "white is hard, yellow is suicide" only to see them painting directly over black primer.

>>53017026
For a short while he allowed religion in the imperium but then changed his mind, which ironically led to Lorgar and the Word Bearers worshipping the Chaos gods.

What the Emperor failed to understand is that there will always be people who want to worship something. The emperor tried to say that all religion was bad and tried to take away all the benign religions, so what happened? People started worshipping the chaos gods, including the emperor's own son.

For all of the greatness the Emperor achieved, he was the whole time waging a war against human nature instead of embracing and nurturing it into something constructive. He thought that religion was something people would just learn to live without if he took it away, but it doesn't work that way because religion is an inherently human instinct.

>>53017116
just make some of the welded on panels blue. the main body can be green camo to contrast.

>>53017150
I totally agree with you on that, but i wasnt contesting wether or not he was wrong or right in his descision. You're barking at the wrong tree mate.

My post was just about the possibility that Big E at one point could have been Jesus

>>53014251
Chinaman

>>53016519
The Red Templars already exist, anon. They are a loyalist Ultramarine successor chapter.

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>>53007021
This was going to be my next project but then it arrived. The models are so damn cheap, they're like a bag of toy soldiers. Not sure if I want to paint up the boxset any more but thought I'd ask what you guys thought.

>>53011525
When will they learn?

>>53017279
Well screw that name then. I have no idea what they would be called just short of plain old "Templars" because the Imperium already appropriates so much of Christianity's terms and names.

>>53017347
The detailing isn't bad on them. They look comparable to FFG's minis. I see potential. What scale are they?

>>53017374
FFG's stuff is much better detailed, they're way less static and don't use repeating texture.

They're comparable to GW models but with tiny heads. The bosses aren't to scale with the PCs.

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Annnd done the Bike. Just have to pose the Sergeant for the bike and this is the first time for me doing this. Want him to be leaning to the side with a chainsword stretched out in his hand.

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>>53017172
Like so shooped?

>>53017419
The thing that looks immediately of concern to me is those bases. Especially the one on the far right--it doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Maybe some hot water could straighten it out though.

>>53017347
Elite knight seems pretty solid.

>>53017430
Looking good.

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>>53017443
The plastic is hard but it reminds me of army men plastic stuff.

>>53017445
Such quality..

>>53017082
Those buggies are fucking awesome anon

>>53017123

Can anybody answer this? Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm new.

>>53017474
Clean the mold lines, spray it with some primer and see how it looks. The plastic may not be the highest quality but if you can make paint stick to it that's what matters.

I don't have a set myself, I am just speaking from the perspective of someone who is curious.

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>>53017497
Thanks, all shamelessly stolen from other online designs.

There's also a hot-rod version but it's not gotten blue yet.

>>53017520
White I'd say if you really want that crisp colour, if you wanted more shaded look grey.

>>53017542

Whenever I see pictures of grey primed models they look the same as unprimed. I'm worried that if I prime in grey I might fuck it up because I've never primed anything before and I won't be able to differentiate what's covered and what's not covered.

Is that a thing?

>>53017474
Not too tough to replace the sword. Though finding the right scale might be a bit of a pain if the usual historical suspects don't have anything fitting.

wouldn't buy the set just for him, but were it a solo reaper fig I might

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i think i finally got it to a point where im happy

might mess with the top spikes though

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>>53017560
You'll be able to tell easily as the surface will be completely different to the touch.
>>53017542
Mine stolen also. Although they are way too small for any serious use.

>>53017560
>Is that a thing?

Sometimes if the lighting is less than optimal.

Working on lens effects
Shits awesome when you make a good one

>>53009454
Metal...Gear?

>>53017775
post it faggot

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>>53017775
I used the warhammer tv way plus some gloss varnish and it works well

>>53017829
Lovely work.

I remember awhile back a guy was posting custom Sisters of Battle or something similar. Where did he get the bodies for them if anyone remembers?

I also seem to remember some company selling an army set of female knights, but I can't seem to find them anymore. Is a real thing or was I dreaming?

>>53017972
Not sure what you're talking about, but some ruskis calling themselves grishnak something,
are making resin sisters.
If they were conversions they were probably using the sisters of silence as a base though.

>>53016749
I'm a boy though, but yes same person, thanks.
>>53016786
I'll get a better camera for future WIP posts I make, since my phone camera has less pixels than my webcam even.

>>53007118

I've done mine on Shrubland bases. No real reason, just getting the bits I needed.

>>53018302

*using the bits I had.

>Mind fart.

>>53011235
These used to be the standard bases. The vast majority of GW minis used to be on these bases. Now it's mainly for all human sized infantry, IG, standard eldar guys, scouts...

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I know I need to clean the base rim, but other than that should I stop here? If not what do you suggest I do next? Also what do you think?

>>53007185
Fucking top KEK.
Genius.

>>53017082
>Gonna tool the vehicles up with some freehand in red&yellow, flames, lightning bolts n shit.
That is awesome.
Reminds me of Megas XLR which you now have to convert as a Stompa.

>>53017123
I would prime assuming I was starting with the silver, honestly; no reason you can't take things unit by unit. Prime black, hose them down with some silver paint, blue wash on the armor, highlight again with some silver. That's 50% done. Recoat everything else in gray and work your way up from there.

>>53014906
Worst case scenario, just get a texture roller.

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/textured-rolling-pins/515-rolling-pin-mesh.html

This one wouldn't be too bad.

>>53016945
Do you know how I would figure out the point cost of particular weapons and abilities like deep strike?

>>53016609
That's cool as shit, and now I want one.
>multilasers on literally everything

>>53019440
yes embrace the laser, love the laser.

I am honestly tempted to and a bunch of lasgun arrays from my chimeras too whenever I get around to this project.

After all why carry ammo fed guns when you can just carry lasers?

>>53020049
and = add I haven't slept much last night.

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>>53020049
on all levels but physical you are CS Goto.
You tread a dangerous path, anon. But if you follow it,
can you confirm if Eldar have kidneys

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is there such a thing as a Very Hardcore™ micro tip yellow paint pen?

basically I want to write some tiny runes, think purity seal script small, on some black power armor, in yellow. my idea is to paint red runes, then a very small line of gray, then use the yellow paint pen for the rune's highlight. freehanding aint working.

I have used various kinds of paint pens from hobby lobby etc. on other projects and they have been universally trash. either they are too big and end up clogged ASAP, or the micro tip ones turn out transparent, so it wouldn't work for high contrast against black power armor.

what I am trying to do is pic related, but I literally cannot find a yellow micro tip paint pen that isn't shit. it needs to be extremely opaque, and extremely fine.

>>53019409
no, just slap 50-100 points onto it. Ask your opponent if it's ok

>>53020249
>CS Goto
Ok I see your point don't rape the lore. Here I was going to just rule that my knight was some one of one archeotech wonder or some borderline tech heresy that goes unnoticed on some backwater planet on the eastern fringe.

On a side note while looking at Goto's 1d4chan page I saw he gave Mantis Warriors multilasers I see no problem with this assuming the space marines knew that they couldn't use a secure supply line in a given theater of war.

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>>53020498
>extremely opaque
>yellow

>>53020249
>can you confirm if Eldar have kidneys
was that a CS Goto thing?

>>53020544
gel pens do it. I am thinking about going to the dollar store right now. the only problem is I suspect it will be an absolute bitch to actually get it to write on a painted surface, and will goo everywhere. and it will be too thick.

I basically need a micro gel pen.

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Finishing up M8 HMC. Feel like I worked meticulous hard then kinda messed it up with wanton weathering.

I could use some advice on how to improve it.

Also, debating if I should color in the light lenses or not.

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chewie and IG-88 into the mix

>>53021283
Fucking awesome. Those are for the FFG SW game right?

>>53021304
yeah, Imperial Assault. Had to wait like 6 months for these guys to be back in stock.

>>53021331
Cool. Have you played a game yet or trying to paint them first? I'm debating buying it.

>>53021470
Yea the game's solid. Ruleset is very similar to Descent if you've played that.

>>53021538
I'm familiar with Descent. Sounds good then.

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Got the rider bits from the mortarch kit from a dude this morning. Rate my conversion please. Can I improve anything about them?

Oh, and sorry for shitty pic, too tired to build a proper lightbox.

>>53017607
fucking lego wheels!

>>53017066
Good call. Ill have to add that in.

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/wip/ I need help. I got one of these bases as a freebie. It's supposed to represent a lava flow, but I want to paint it as more a tropical water flow. I've never painted straight water before, I've always used hobby scenics water product. Should I just pour that into the lava flow with a base painted beneath it, or do you think I should just paint the water onto the base itself since it's already textured? If I paint right on to it, what colors should I use?

>>53014775
I've been filming to make a how to video

>>53021274
That looks straight outta Advance wars for some reason.

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>>53014501

I hope this helps

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PRIMING AND BASECOATING?
I literally cant figure it out.

I never put varnish on my models.

>>53023174
Priming is putting a special kind of paint over bare plastic so that paint you put on afterward actually sticks.
Basecoating in the first layer after you prime.

>>53018459
Nice job on the base and the leather.

The dunc did a video today on highlighting synskin, check it out. It'll add a lot of depth.

It looks like you used white to rim under and highlight the lens of the eyes - because you already used stark white on the mask, I'd use fire dragon bright or other very light orange, otherwise it kind of looks like a mistake.

For the mask you might use celestra grey, then ulthuan and highlight with white scar, just avoiding pure white until the last will add depth.

>>53014501
They stick to standard GW sizes already.

>>53023174
Primer is paint which settles slightly unevenly, it creates a porous surface (too small for the human eye to see) that allows normal paint to cling to it better.

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The ... whatever the dark angel transport and tactical squad box set is called didn't have an accessory sprue so I made one out of sprue. I don't think it's terrible for what it is. Just need a few more highlights, like on the red stripes.

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>>53023131
>advanced wars
Muh melanin enriched friend.

I haven't thought about that game in like a decade lol.

But yeah the stunted barrel definitely lends to that AW feel. That and the Stuart chassis is small as fuck as well compared to the turret.

>>53022644
Paint with blues and white then add water effects or gloss varnish.

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Any idea on how to convert lasblasters for Eldar Corsairs?

>>53023392
I actually briefly wanted to paint up a 15mm scale Orange Star army but that idea fell by the wayside.

>>53023364
very nice overall, but the converted dozer blade does still look a little too sprue-y upon close inspection. it's a very rare case of thing "thing that is smack dab in the middle of quality, not bad but not great either", usually such things are more onesided. I would have hidden the gaps maybe, or spruced it up with some smaller carved sprue pieces somehow. 7/10 dozer blade, 8.5/10 rhino

>>53023364
Very clean job anon,love the highlights. I dont know how I feel about the dozer blade though.

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>>53020573
>>53020544
>>53020498
nobody gives a shit but:

I found a gel pen that actually semi-works, but it's flourescent and looks more glowy green than yellow. On the off chance that anybody has any ideas on how to make the pen runes on the left look like the paint runes on the right, I'm all ears. I may try some glazes/washes in a bit but

>>53023231
>>53023350
So after I prime my miniatures with spray I have to coat them in a color before painting?
Or can I paint directly on the prime?
Im kinda lost

>>53023775
Directly on the primer.
Primer is exactly what it says on the tin. It "primes" your models for painting. Basecoat is the first coat of paint you want on your color scheme.
Although some people use the primer as the first coat and build from there (i.e. using green primer for orks so you don't have to basecoat the flesh).

>>53023775
>Clean up mold lines
>Glue model together
>Fill in any gaps between parts with putty
>When putty is dry prime model
>Paint the model with standard paint from that point onwards.
>Gloss varnish when fully painted to protect the paint
>Matt varnish to take the shine off
Priming isn't just to help paint stick better.

Your prime can also be your base colour, some companies do coloured primers.

>>53023456
You could probably convert one using plasma pistols for the coils in the back and eldar grenades for the magazine or some such, but all in all you'll have to do some sculpting anyway.
Any reason you don't wanna buy the FW ones? The page says they are temporarily out of stock, but should be available at some time in the future again.

Asking cause afaik only corsairs and swooping hawks use them. So if you want to build either of those units you could just buy the miniatures and be done with it.
The only other option, slightly less practical (since the FW guns come on their own) you could cut apart swooping hawks. Whatever you want to do with them you could cut them apart at the hip and remove the head so you are only left with the torso and the gun.

>>53023740
>I may try some glazes/washes in a bit but
If that doesn't work you could try inks as they have stronger pigment.

Though I am a little puzzled. Why don't you use a brush and paint for this? I get that you might have to do more than one pass to get a strong result, but it seems like the easier solution to me.

>>53023775
there are primers, and also colored primers

primer is typically black, gray, or white, and you choose which one based on if you want your mini to be a light or dark color, for example yellow marines would use white primer, while black primer is fine for blue marines.

however, there are also primers that double as a base coat. for example a red color primer is a primer itself, but also the color red, so when you spray with that you already have a primed miniature with a red base coat.

so it depends on which one you have, regular primer or color primer. after you spray with regular primer, you typically put a base coat of whatever the main color of your miniature is going to be, for example a blood angels space marine might have black primer and then a spray (or brushed on) base coat of red. the point of the base coat is just to have the main color of your model painted, so that all you have left to do is paint the details like eyes, trim, etc. for models that are a shitload of different colors, you might not paint the whole model one base coat, but instead paint individual areas with base coats. a guardsmen with no shirt on might have a green base coat for his pants, then a flesh base coat for his bare flesh top half. then you paint the details with whatever colors are necessary.

to further complicate things (jk), if you are using GW paints, GW has specific types of paints. base paints, layer paints, technical, etc. base paints are what you want to use for large area base coats, layer paints are for after you have the base coat on and are painting details. layer paints are very very slightly transparent, so they are effected by what is underneath them. a pink layer paint over white is brighter, while a pink layer paint over black would be shit because it's very hard to get coverage. this is also why you don't want to use layer paints as base coats*

*you sorta can but it's not a fun thing to do for a newbie

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I have no idea how to start this post.

I would like your help/advice. I just started painting 2 weeks ago and I'm still taking my baby steps.
Long story short I´m trying to get the same effect as this guy did in his tutorial.
https://blackhandpainting.blogspot.is/2016/11/kingdom-death-stone-effect-tutorial.html

And this is my progress at the moment.
I´m currently just practicing on the crappiest army men I could find. The main reason I´m asking for help is because I´m a little bit colorblind. I would love just a honest answer, am I on the right track? What can I do to improve? Is there something I´m doing 100% wrong at the moment?

I think I wont do the crack effect because that looks way out of me league.

>>53023922
30 dollars for a conversion kit for 10 guys isnt my cup of tea, not including shipping.

>>53023456
>>53024363
You could use Oyumaru to recast the guns in greenstuff from one of the dudes, depending on how the swooping hawks are sculpted.

Should I be using paint-on primer?

t. can barely paint inbetween the lines and doesn't know what purpose paint-on primer serves

>>53024232
>The main reason I´m asking for help is because I´m a little bit colorblind.
No worries, you came to the right place. The one on the right is gray and the one on the left is also gray.

Seriously, they look just fine to me though. Might want to try practicing on something with tiny bit more detail. 1/35 plastic model infantry or something like that.

>>53023422
I can make that work. Thanks!

>>53024363
Yeah I get that. As >>53024461 mentioned you could just recast the stuff you need.
If you would get the plastic components with the rest of the kit the price would be fair, but this way...

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Just made a few extra skyhooks for the 20 models I squeezed out of a single arkanaut box.

>>53023868
>>53023855
>>53024007
So my big worry with several coats of primer, basecoat and varnish is that it will bloat the miniature.
They are really delicate after all and got loads of detail, every layer of paint kind of drowns those detail if you aren't careful.

If I prime AND basecoat I feel like having destroyed 50% of detail already.

>>53026352
WTF kind of paint are you using?

I have a model infront of me with 10 layers of paint on fine detail and it's not lost a lick of it. You don't bathe it in primer you ghost it, it needs a thin coat from passing across the model not a snow storm. Then THIN YOUR PAINTS, you want it to be milk thickness where it will cover in 2-4 coats depending on the colour. Neither will cover detail.

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>>53007185

>>53026388
I have ptsd from drowning miniatures in primer until they dripped paint from when I was a kid.

>>53011947 back again. I know Scourges come with their little rocks, and Reavers/Raiders/etc have no issue with feet on the base for obvious reasons. Any suggestions that AREN'T cork for sticking Kabalites/etc on? Not sure if I actually do want to go the route of "convert EVERYTHING from Scourges", so I'm measuring backup options.

>>53007185
Why you gotta hurt me like this anon?

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>>53007021
Finished my first Joker henchmen. A joy to paint. :D

>>53027171
Cool minis and cool mat

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>>53027254
Thanks, it's actually just my mouse pad/mat.

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Hey /WIP/,

I posted here last week about my minotaurs and got some pretty brutal (but accurate) advice. I'm still pretty new at painting mini's in general so I took your critique to heart and resolved to do my best regardless.

Now I have two (almost) done minotaurs and I have come back for round 2. I would like to ask what I can do to improve and finish these two.

I know that they will never be good enough to be even a fraction as good as some of the things I see on this site but I want to try regardless.

I'm not really sure how I would do some highlighting for these. I have looked at some guides and all I can really understand is that it's supposed to straighten out straight lines and show off extra detail. Can anyone here help me with what I should do when attempting to highlight?

Thanks.

>>53027301
Slick

>>53023985
I tried freehand, it's impossible to get it as small and neat as I want without taking forever. With the pen I can just draw and simply apply wash/glaze which won't show every little fuckup as obviously on black.

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I'm a newish painter. How can I get a byzantine look on Skitarii Vanguard? Screaming pink looks the colour of their red. Not sure where to get the base for the gold and how to work up. I also need a contrast colour, should it be green or blue?

>>53027763
Check out Wazdakka Red if you're going with citadel paints. Valejo has some good red tones as well.

For the gold Retributor armour with a wash of Agrax should give a similar tone, then highlight with Auric armour.

Blue works better.

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Are my highlights too stark? It feels like it but I can't tell if it's just the lighting. It's nowhere near done, I just can't tell if the highlighting is trash

>>53028662
there's too much direct lighting on your model, it's almost impossible to really tell.

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WIP of my Guardians of the Covenant venerable dreddy. Highlights are due tomorrow

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>>53028724
Hmm, how about now? Or is it too dark?

>>53027341
Watch this recent video from our lord and savior ->

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f87PyCCl0PY

appropriate for the big brute

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>>53028861
If you want a serious reply:

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>>53026603
>I have ptsd from drowning miniatures in primer until they dripped paint from when I was a kid.
Alright anon, I'm gonna let you in on a secret then; if you don't want to clog up all the details on your models, don't prime them until they are dripping paint. I know that sounds pretty complicated, but you gotta try anon.
I believe in you!

If you're REALLY worried about over-priming, just give your models a medium dusting of primer all over and then wait for like 20 minutes. If you can still CLEARLY make out the plastic underneath, you need more primer and should repeat the process. As soon as you can't see the plastic anymore, stop priming. He's good to go and needs no more primer.
It can be hard mustering up the patience to wait for the layers of primer to dry, but the effect is so worth it. This guy was primed using the method just for reference. It took about 2 dusting to get him done.

how are the vallejo washes?

>>53029163
Thanks

>>53028983
When he hushes over "apply two thin coats" I guess I will have to wait for the first coating to dry?

>>53029505
that'd be traditional yes

>>53029163
If my primer is a gray such that I can barely tell if something's been primed, am I just fucked and have to go buy a different color? I have massive, crippling paranoia about overpriming.

>>53029669
I usually go with black or white primer, depending on whether a model will be primarily light or dark colors. Gray is my least used color of primer and I don't find it to be terribly useful.

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>>53017439
maybe not so much. to me the key is using the colors to break up the form a bit. if you do too much blue it all gets lost. i might do a more yellowish green too, to help contrast with the blue.

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I'm starting Tau and I kinda like the look of these colors.

I've painted probably 10 models total ever, and that was a while ago. Any wisdom before I grab these paints and the models?

>>53029876
Rakarth Flesh is one of my favourite colours, makes doing off whites and bone so easy

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Just finished this guardsman. One more and I'll have a full command squad.

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Finished for the evening. Just need to finish the base on Ornstien.
Then photograph in better light conditions.

>>53029669
It can be kinda hard to judge coverage with gray primer, yeah. It'll work, no doubt (some people even prefer it), but for a noob it might hard to get it right.
I'd advise either looking reeeeeeally hard and trying to judge that way or just going with your gut. You could always try to put a very light stain on the model even before priming to make the model's gray not match the gray of the primer.
Just spitballing ideas here. My grey primer is reserved purely for cardboard terrain.

>>53027171
Dam son, looks pretty good. I especially like the shading on his skin and clothes.
Mind sharing how you got that blood effect?

Anyone got any recommendations for a good highlighting brush I could grab on amazon? Got a gift card from work so figured I'd use it on some new brushes

thinned 'ardcoat fine through airbrush?

>>53030538
Winsor & Newton Series 7

>>53030126
Those look great. What paints did you use?

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How do you like my WIP Warriors of Nurgle?

>>53030747
I'm going to be making six additional ones if anyone feel like giving some tips or have some suggestions for how I should make them.

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Rate my Arkanaut Admiral

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What are some funny mistakes you've made in the past /wip/?

>be me today
>Just noticed I glued two right arms on a warrior of chaos without realizing even after painting

It's been months and I only just noticed now

>>53031006

Looks baller as fuck, well done anon.

I might get into AoS because of these guys

>>53030440
I used blood for the blood god, works wonders. It's propably my favourite citadel paint.

>>53031077
I got into AoS because of them. Wasn't interested in it before, but Dwarven sky pirates are lovely

>>53031006
m'lady/10

>>53031051
stabbed myself in the foot while trying to drill into an old metal termie. Used an ooold rusty drill too.
Must have been about 12 years ago now, I still have a rust colored 'tattoo' on my foot from that.

>>53030112
>"lets see here.. official laspistol instrustions... so i just.. point and.. pull this thing?

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>>53031051
>Two right hands
You've gotta make a Hanged Man now, anon.
mandatory 'is that a JoJo reference'
Also, what do you guys think of my crisis suits? I tried giving them a leadbelcher drybrush after highlighting and I kinda dig it.

>>53021274
Lookan good to me! Nice to see non-GW models like this around.

>>53030576
I've seen recommendations for those but I keep hearing mixed things, from some of the reviews I've read people say that the tips don't last very long before becoming frayed. How's everyone else's experiences been?

>>53032078
If you are gonna go all in an buy sable brushes I'd wouldn't buy them online.
Before buying a brush you should check for yourself that the tip is good.
A good art store will have a cup of water and a paperpad next to the brush display. You don't necessarily need that to spot obvious manufacturing defects though.
There you can try drawing spirals. If the brush maintains a good tip after that you know it's a good one.

Not all brushes are the same, even if they have the same hair.

Just saying that to clear up the confusion on the different opinions.

The other half, aside from manufacturing, of that equation is of course maintenance.
If you treat a good brush bad it won't last long either.
So depending on where you heard that you should take it with a grain of salt.

>>53031523
>Orients models horizontally
>Holds phone to take a picture vertically
Dude

Also

It looks like the paint is lumpy? Something's weird when you zoom into that picture

>>53027171
Damn dude, nice. Been thinking of grabbing some of those Batman models just because they look pretty cool. Particularly Lobo and that Riddler+gang one that just came out

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>>53032601
Yeah, my phone camera is dogshit. Really need a better camera setup of some sort. The coats are smooth in person, I'll see if I can get a better picture when I get home.
For reference, here's one of the suits with a vox dude and an unpainted gue'vesa. Camera's utter shite.

>>53031051

Well I'm brand spanking new to making minis, but I glued one of my fire warrior's torso on backwards. And I used tire glue so it's basically a rock. Kind of funny?

Also how do I separate the two to fix it? It's literally like one piece now.

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>>53032742
There's a moldline on his leg bud,

>>53032773
>tire glue
wot
>how do I fix it
A bit of googling says that tire glue might be superglued? I'm not sure, but if it is I'd suggest putting it in the freezer for a while, it'll make the glue more brittle. After that, you might be able to separate them with a knife. Or try a few more freeze-thaw cycles on the glue.
Either that or use it as a chaos spawn.

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>>53032846
fuck
MFW you didn't point out the giant fucking moldlines on the vox guy's legs

>>53032850
I'll try that thanks

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>>53007021
What's the best way to remove a super glued mini from its base?

>>53032978
Same fix as for >>53032773
Freeze and then either slide a knife between feet and base or just snap it off, depending on how confident you are in the strength of the model

>>53033033
thanks

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>>53033106
yw senpai

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Working on vets

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I got 3 meme boys now

>>53033285
guy on the left looks genuinely disgusted by the other two

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>>53033268
>>53033285
Oh hey, it's memeguard anon!
Love seeing your lads progressing, and the memes are a nice bonus. Keep up the good work!

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Did some Rhodesian-themed Pathfinders today.

Question. I got a Deredeo Dreadnought model already primed with brown paint. Problem is, all my other models are primed with grey, and I' afraid that if I paint this it might have different hue than rest of my models.

Should I just basecoat it? Or try to take the primer off risking clogs? (it's been already glued with autocannon w/ ammo belt and missile pod, so I might not be able to brush it clean)

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>>53033640
...and this Cadre Fireblade.

>>53033660
The camo could use a bit more blending between the two colours desu, they contrast too much ATM. Have you shaded them?

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>>53033660
...and this Devilfish.

>>53033686
unless i'm retarded and you aren't going for camo

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>>53033686
Not really. This is my first army, so I'm sort of learning techniques as I go.

pic related was my inspiration.