WIP - Work In Progress General

What is the best product for dealing your finished models? I tried both Krylon and Rustoleum Matte clear spray on a couple test models and both ended up putting a frost type effect on them. I'm spraying in a ventilated area and the temperature and humidity are both fine so it's got to be the spray. What do? I'm about to go out shopping for something else so I'll take any advice I can get

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>>52988850
>What is the best product for dealing your finished models?

I use Army Painter Anti-Shine, and it works well for me, but I've heard a few folks grumble about that "frosting" effect with it too. Has never happened to me, though.

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Just got done shading.

I'm trying to rescue my Marines from the hell that is Vallejo air metals. Right now, I'm just looking at getting some alternative figured out. What's the best way to get a black steel color, similar to Vallejo's air-metal Steel? Metallic medium and Abaddon Black? Leadbelcher and Abaddon Black mixed? Leadbelcher with a lot of Nuln?

The inconsistency of this Steel is driving me crazy, and it really isn't worth the savings to be this much of a pain in the ass.

>>52988850
Uh, I remember someone saying something about distance, can't remember if frosting is from too close or too far away.

>>52988895
>What's the best way to get a black steel color
you could try graphite powder over black.
know it's used in historical models, but you'll probably have to seal the models before applying any other colors since it'd rub off otherwise.
You can also get metallic weathering powders for this.

Drowing the mini in black wash is possible, but you can always tell how it was done.
Mixing metallics with paint works too, but if you mix a bright metallic paint with black you'll end up with bright sparkles.
So you have to have a paint with dark flakes in it, otherwise it'll look awkward.

>>52989025
>graphite powder black
Though I'm not the same poster, I have the same issue as >>52988850 where every sealant I try fucks it up badly.

I do have a bottle of Metal Medium that I picked up to mix my Librarian's armor colors; would that (the Vallejo one) be dark enough to not look terribly weird with black?

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Legion of the Damned in various stages of completiong. The guy with the combibolter is done, but not based. Only shooting for tabletop standard.

>>52989060
>I do have a bottle of Metal Medium that I picked up to mix my Librarian's armor colors; would that (the Vallejo one) be dark enough to not look terribly weird with black?
Can't help you there.
No idea what the Vallejo medium looks like in person.
You can mix some up and try on a scrap of paper to see if it looks alright, though, if you have it already.

>>52989166
Well, therein lies the problem; even the Vallejo Steel looks fine on paper. Mix it, perfect. Put it on the wet palette, perfect. Take it FROM the wet palette and put it on paper, perfect. Put it on SKIN, it's perfect.

Put it on the model and it turns white.

>>52989127
Was the center marine drybrushed? I like the effect it gave him. Armor looks very worn. Did you use just the basic Dawnstone dry to do it?

>>52988302
>Then I have nice looking bases to give the models more colour.
Well I'm not done yet. I'm just going to finish my entire army before basing them so they look as coherent as possible.

>>52989218
I actually did all of the marines in greyscale and then used nuln oil to build up to black. I wanted to give their armor a scorched black look rather than just painting and highlighting it black. The center guy is my latest attempt, while the guy without a head is the first.

The center guy was based with mechanicus grey, layered with dawnstone, and brushed with administratum grey before being heavily washed with nuln oil several times. Its a pretty quick method and I think the results are solid. It also lets me do a fading effect like the guy with the fist on his breastplate.

>>52989198
>Put it on the model and it turns white.
sounds like a technical issue.
I don't really know what might cause this to happen only on the model though.
What are you thinning with? Or you are getting a funny reaction from your primer maybe?
Does it work over regular acrylic paint?
Have you tried airbrushing another layer of regular black paint or matte coat before using the metal?

>>52989482
>What are you thinning with
I've tried water, or not thinning at all. No change. Though unthinned goes on surprisingly well, it's still not pretty.
>Are you getting a funny reaction from your primer maybe?
Leadbelcher and Retributor work perfectly fine on the same model, so only if it's an issue with Vallejo's formulation, and I've used their non-metal paints directly on the same primer with no issue.
>Does it work over regular acrylic paint?
I managed to successfully cover a Leadbelcher-painted area with a coat to slightly darken it, though I'm still nowhere close to the label or advertised color.
>Have you tried airbrushing
Don't own an airbrush. Sadly.

>>52989551
I'm afraid I don't know what else could be causing it.
I only know that the whole whitening thing is something that might happen with GW glazes if the paint is not properly mixed.

And I know that people sometimes underestimate that Vallejo paints need a bit more shaking than GW stuff.

So... this is kind of the 'have you tried turning it on and off again'-question of painting, but are you sure you've mixed the paint thoroughly before trying to paint with it?

If that's not it, I have absolutely not clue what else it could be.

>drybrushing
>ever
You are all grown men. Why would you keep drybrushing like a 10 year old who rubs blue colors over his ultramarines with a old toothbrush.

It doesn't look "worn", it looks sloppy and lazy and dirty.

This isnt a WW2 miniature game where you need to simulate wear and tear by making the model dirty. Its super cartoony and thus the wear and tear should be painted on rather than just dipping the model in wash and drybrushing on it so it looks super "battle damaged".

>>52989812
>You are all grown men. Why would you keep drybrushing

>It doesn't look "worn", it looks sloppy and lazy and dirty.

Well they're Orks and it's supposed to looks like a streaky mess done in a hurry before the owner comes back.

Possession being 9/10ths and a snazzy paint job the last 1

>>52989812
I drybrush because I hate stark highlight lines and am far, far too lazy to attempt to blend in addition to highlighting. So I drybrush the highlight color on and then highlight the edges with a brush.

>>52989778
Yep. I actually went back and did more today after shaking/mixing the paint for a solid five minutes straight. It was a little darker, but didn't come out well at all.

I dunno. I don't like metallics, but I play Arthurian-themed knights in shining armor, it's kind of a necessity.

>>52988892
Looks like Max Branning off Eastenders

Was asking in the last thread if I should bother magnetizing my boyz (and nobz) or just stick with the dredd from the starter kit. One person has said to just stick with vehicles and the like so I was wondering what you guys did with your spare bits since this box seems to come with plenty of extras to spare.

>always thought an airbrush is like 1000 bucks
>google it recently
>its like 20
Uh... compared to the general cost of the hobby that's nothing.
What speaks against using airbrush?

>>52990106
you should get one, they're great.
Don't fall into the trap of thinking that it'll totally replace regular brushes though.

>>52990106
decent compressor's going to cost maybe a couple hundred, also a proper mask and either a well ventilated area to spray in OR a fan setup to compensate

Still perfectly affordable, but at least personally I just like hand painting more.

>>52990106
It's the compressor and whole setup that costs the big bucks not the actual brush itself

>>52989812
Literally the only things anyone should be drybrushing is dirt, certain types of fur, and metallics over metallics for a scratched up look.

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Finished my praetor drake mantle, how's it looking ?

>>52990650
Was he havin a good ol swim in the sewers?
I'm not sure what you wanted to achieve, but it looks like his mantle is covered with turds.

>>52988895
Weird, they all worked really well for me. Or maybe I'm blind and don't see the flaws.

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>>52990067
You save em, cut em up and get convertin'. Want a boy with two shootas? Want a really custom shoota? Scrouge from your bits.

Also, a bead organizer makes a great bits box.

>>52990879
I'm pretty new so I'm not even really sure what combos of arms on these sprues go well together i just was a little overwhelmed by the variety

>>52991294
unacceptable

>>52990879
You don't need to use digital zoom. That will just make the pic blurry and grainy.
Every mobile phone has a good enough camera that a normal photo will be good enough.

>>52991217
Save all the spare bitz you don't use, and even save the sprue frame (it can make for good rubble later).

If you're new, then it's time to start building up your Bitz Box. Organize it however you want, but you'll be glad later to have a wealth of leftover bitz.

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Now this is shaping up to be a nice army.

>>52989905
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

>>52991385
Not that I wasnt already planning on it but what do you do with spare arms and especially how do you use your sprues to make your rubbles? (also something I had thought of but wasnt sure about)

>>52989905
Just needs a stippling of Jokaero Orange on top to complete the look

>>52991410
THIN YOUR PAAAAAAINTS

>>52989127
what's the model on the left

>>52991410
I love the freehanding on the mandalorian visors. Good work!

I asked last thread, but didn't get many answers. What are the pros and cons of the big 4 paint lines?(Reaper, Vallejo, Citadel, and P3)

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>>52991621
My attempt at an Emperors Champion based off pic related. The head is from Maxmini, the body is from dreamforge, and the rest is mostly from Deathwatch Vanguard Veterans.

Anyone got tips for keeping models from not looking too "busy"?

I'm doing some Space Wolf conversions, and the Wolves like their trinkets, runes, and trophies, but I don't want things to look ridiculously over-blinged (any more than normal 40k). But these ARE command units, so...

Tips?

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Finished the conversion of my BA Sergeants Bike. Cut up some nails to make the bars so it looks more like a Chopper.


How does it look?

>>52992227
fuckin' rad dude
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMbATaj7Il8

New to this, been lurking for a while. Working on my orks. I have

separated what can't be painted easily to paint and then attach
removed mold lines
filled gaps with green stuff
drilled holes in the gun barrels

is there any step I'm missing before I prime them?

>>52992563
gaps?

>>52992578
When I put the arms on there were some clear lines, indents, whatever. I put green stuff there and tried to spread it flat to make the skin look continuous.

>>52992563

mount the stuff to something

>>52992489
Boba Fett?

>>52992614
should I not put them on their bases?

>>52992631
well yeah unless you wanna do your bases separately. I more meant the bits you've decided not to attach.

>>52991687
There are more differences from paint to paint than there is brand to brand.

There is no general rule between brands and anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about.

>>52989127
How did you even take such a clear crisp picture no matter how much I try I can't get anything like that.

>>52992886
I think my phone has a strong cameea

>>52991687
There's really not too much difference outside of personal preference. Retards will tell you to only use their personal favorite, while non-retards just use what they like, regardless of brand.
I mostly use Citadel since my FLGS has the biggest selection of it, but I also have Vallejo Primer and weathering paints since those are pretty great. Never used P3 or Reaper products, but I don't dislike 'em. They just isn't a wide selection at my FLGS.

>>52992954
As much as it comes down to personal preference, I have to take a moment to pimp my all-time-favorite metallics ever.

Fuckin' Vallejo Liquid Gold line.

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>>52992927
Mine looks real blurry compared to yours, on my webcam or on my camera it's bad.

Someone told me I should use the girl on the left as an Inquisitorial Interrogator.

The Scion is my swordsman, who I've finished and using as comparison to the others.

The Elysians I just put base coats on, but I'm finding it really difficult and frustrating to work with resin models! They take so much work to prepare and then they just feel magically harder to paint. Anyone else feel the same way?

>>52993063
I'm not a fan of working with resin, but once I've got them primed I haven't noticed a significant difference so far.

>>52992954
this. It's not something to get too hung up on.

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hi, what do you think of my carry system? any more tips you could give me? im planing to make alpha legion

>>52993119
>models slide around in transit
NO ANON, DON'T DO IT! YOU CAN STILL SAVE THEM!
The box looks fine though. Just make way to keep the little lads from sliding about. Cutting circles in a little slab of foam could work.

>>52993169
They're most likely magnetized down, considering that looks like (?) a metal tray.

>>52993063
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFurry

>>52993063
Put something white behind them, like a sheet of paper or something, before taking the picture. Itll help the models stand out.

>>52990650
looks like frogs

>>52993063
it looks like shit because you need more light

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Oi, just started painting a couple gretchin, new to the hobby. Im trying to get the thinning right, I having shook my paints yet before hand. I found it best to plop some on the cardboard, clean the brush, dip just a little water on the tip of the brush, then mix it a little and go to town. A couple if times it got waaaay too fucking runy and I find it dries really fast, any help to this?

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Posted this on AoS so thought I'd share here too

>>52993104
Ah, maybe it's just me then! Or the models.

>>52993225
If I was a furry, why didn't I go for Space Yiffs or Space Lizards or something? Does buying one animal person model make me a furry? D=

>>52993284
I'll try that next time! Thanks!

>>52993484
I'll try and find a way to add more light when I take pictures, without it being glaring next time. Thanks for the advice!

>>52993657
I remember when you first started working on this, I thought it looked awful.
I'm glad you kept working on it and making it better, It's turned out really nice, well done.

Are there any good alternate heads for Dark Eldar? I'd like to have some be unhelmeted, but GW's heads just look so awful.

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>>52993528
>I find it dries really fast, any help to this?

I have a bottle of Reaper Flow Improver (09106). When painting small things (eyes, gems, insignia, etc.), I use this instead of water to thin the tiny amount of paint I'm putting on my brush. It takes longer to dry than water. I suppose I could use it for larger areas, but if that's chronic for you, maybe you need to put together a wet palette.

There's a link for doing so in the OP.

>>52993752
Ok will look into the pallete, gotta say, REALLY inpressed with all the detail the wash brings out. Highlighting it with that was the nice lil cherry on top. I plan on getting more paints and brushes soon and try some more. Not as hard as what I thought itd be

>>52994188
Make it simple, and less is more. The problem with camo on miniatures is that it's very easy to make it too busy. Use a couple of distinct colours, maybe go with 3 colours, a base then 2 for patterns. Decide on a theme, look at actual camo patterns on google, and try to replicate it whilst keeping teh pattern simple and not too cluttered.

Your camo is kinda of murky, the colours don't stand out. Use less different colours, but use more of each colour you do use.

>>52993729
Thanks anon!

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More work on the disk and jewels.

>>52990650
Look at medieval scale mail armor. You have to many gaps for it to look like drake scale, it looks good so far though.

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Working on DAK and Free French Forces for Bolt Action. Here are two tanks I'm working on right now. Added symbols today.

Learning how to paint vehicles. Advice would be great if any /hwg/uys here.

>>52994520
I'm sorry about the earthquake.

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>>52994520
Fucking blurryy as shit. Sorry guys. This one should be better

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>>52994537
Lol. Like i said. Sorry :[

>>52994539
Of the stug iii

>>52994563
How very dare you.

That's a great StugIII, fan of that tank. Wish it was statted properly in Bolt Action.

>>52994483
Lookan great! Loving the vibrant colours, blue seems far more vibrant than the gold though.

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First time painting models.

I love my scarab head warrior.

>>52994670
AAAAAAH PRIME YOUR MODELS THE PAINT WILL RUB OFF

>>52994670
Anon look, I'm going to ask you question before I say anything else.
Are you serious? Are you looking for constructive criticism and/or tips to improve, or are you just trolling?
I'm going out on a limb him and straight up asking you. Be honest with me here and I'll return in kind.

>>52994798
The picture maks it look worse than they are.

I don't know if it is the lighting or not, but the scarab head in particular looks like it is painted better in real life.

>>52994807
Genuinly my first paint. Black base, the gold for the main part and red for the weapons/eyes.

>>52994841
You need to prime your models. You see all the grey crap in the rib Cage and under the guns? It's not supposed to be there. Go to home Depot Canadian tier any hardware store and buy some black acrylic spray primer, prime your models and then paint them. They'll look 100 times better .
Considering you painted over Bare plastic you can just prime over your current paint job and do it again

I'm thinking about using mildly greenstuffed necron warrior heads as masks for human infantry (cultists). Does anyone have any experience with this sort of conversion, and how retarded am I?

Best advice for dealing with mold lines on metal models? I never really have trouble with plastic, but I'm doing a whole bunch of metal models right now and I find the mold lines to be a huge pain in the ass to remove, ESPECIALLY any type of mold lines or loose material in tight nooks and crannies like armpits/between legs/etc. What's the best way to approach those tough to remove lines?

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>>52994841
Alright anon. Lemme give you some tips

>1. Prime your models
You can't paint on bare plastic. I mean, you CAN, but don't; the paint won't stick and it'll rub right off.
Go to Walmart and pick up pic related in either black, white, or gray. It's like $4 a can and it's some of the best primer on the market. Give your models a good coat of primer (not too thick, but make sure they're covered) before you paint them.

2. Learn to take photos of minis
Turn on the room's lights, turn your camera's flash off.
Turn off your camera's auto focus and instead focus it manually.
Get a backdrop. If your models are lightly colored, use a dark background, if not, use a white background. This is simple - just get a piece of printer or construction paper, fold it in half, and place it behind what you're taking a photo of.

Work on those two first, then get back to us.

Your models actually look pretty nice from an idea standpoint. I dig the gold+red scheme for Necrons. The Scarab-headed warrior is pretty good. Necron players don't tend to "your dudes" it up very often, it's good you're giving it a shot.

>>52995024
Needle file.

>>52988884

any matt varnish should not be used for primary protection. The army painter has even spelled it out for you, its a "anti shine", not much of a protective layer. And its used in conjunction of a gloss varnish, this is the stuff that protects the miniatures (metal casts especially!).

The frosting effect has to do with the temperature of the weather I believe. Only time I have had the displeasure of encountering the effect is on very cold days. Other than this, a matt coat also dulls any metal you have. This can be countered by using led-powder (buy it or scrape it of a pen), then use your finger to apply it. Brings that spark right back up.

>>52995081
Why turn off the flash if you're using a good DSLR? If anything, it can sometimes be better than room lighting.

>>52990717
Ah well, guess I need more practice

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A Chaos Lord on a bike for my Homebrew Warband, C&C?

>>52995343
Is he from that hunter-themed /tg/ chapter? What was it...

Ivory Huntsman! Eh?

>>52994539
Really nice. I'm always envious of people who can do camo.

For some reason I always have a hideously hard time making it look "random", so I keep trying and trying and just make even more of a mess.

>>52994563
looks good. Waiting on Perry's DAK box plus a panzer III as it happens.

>>52995081
Quick question. I've got the Camo Black from Rustoleum. It works way better for me than the primer does (goes on thinner and flatter), but it's not a legit primer, is it?

>>52995586
No. you're going to run into the same problem of the paint not wanting to bond. You could do a caot of primer and then a coat of the Camo black if you really wanted I suppose. It would definitely be an improvement over just the straight Camo

>>52995677
Great.

Guess I'll run through this can, then. Got a proper collection of bad spray paints growing at this point...

>>52995760
Don't worry. I accidentally bought some spray paint a while ago that was REALLY bad. Didn't read that it had acetone in it until after I sprayed my guys.
Least I have some nice casualties to use as objective markers now I guess.

>>52996185
Yeah, I'm still mourning my Scions that got eaten by a bad can of Rustoleum white primer. I don't think I can strip them back to the point where I can reprime and save it. Coworker picked up an ultrasonic cleaner, though, so I'm gonna give that a shot.

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Anyone got any suggestions on how to make this looks slightly less like Pre-Heresy Death Guard? Trying to make a nice color scheme for a homebrew chapter that uses softer colors.
The grey will essentially be celestra grey, green details will be loren forest, chest eagle will be fairly close to karak stone and shoulder pad trim will be ushabti bone

>>52996508
>how to make this looks slightly less like Pre-Heresy Death Guard?
In my opinion:
Make sure the grey maincolor leans more towards blue/grey than brown/bone. (probably the most important thing, since the green/bone combo is so iconic)
I'd maybe also think about redistributing the green a bit.
The trim is reminiscent of Death Guard too. So instead you could paint the entire pads in one color, i.e. grey or green or switch the colors around on the pad and do the inset green and the trim grey.

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first of my iron warriors!

never used snow shit before, seems okay

>>52996610
Might shade the grey with blue rather than brown or black then, combined with celestra grey's cooler tint, should looks quite as lot different then, but would painting the inset of the shoulder pads just make them looks closer to Death Guard? The green inset is already their thing.

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>>52996681
>The green inset is already their thing.
They have a green trim, at least in the scheme I was thinking off.

But as I said I figure the most important thing is swapping the bone for a blueish tint. As long as you do that you'll be fine either way.

>>52996777
yeah, that's good advice, Might try to wash most of it with blues and cooler tones.
Weird about the inert though, almost all of the illustrations have it as green trim, but almost all the pictures of painted Death Guard have green inserts and metallic trim.

>>52996670
Looks like the primer went on a little rough.
Aside from that it looks nice.

If you want to you could run a brown wash around the recesses of the inside on the trim, where the danger stripe pattern is.
Would tie the slightly weathered look together.
As of now the yellow parts look slightly cleaner than the rest of the mini.

Looks pretty good either way though.

>>52992563
meant to post progress here, accidentally posted in /40kg/ >>52996699

I think it went okay.

>>52996801
May be that I'm operating on old information.
The HH books by Forgeworld sometimes have minor variations of the paintschemes. Or maybe that's just to do with the mark of armor they are usually depicted to wear.

Kind of confused about that myself after googling some painted minis as you said...

Phoneposter here. Sorry if the file size is too huge.
Currently working on a Blood Angels Chaplain.

>>52996810
>Just finished my first model, and I need to ask, does this get faster as I get better?
Yes. Way faster.

Also you did pretty good. Really solid job for a first try.

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>>52996863
>picture didn't post
U w0t m8

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>>52996810
another picture since I can't get a good angle with the paper background I had set up.

>>52996865
>sempai noticed me
y-you too

>>52996670
I love this little cute guy. 8/10

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>>52995579
Nice. Im using perry DAK as well and I am also waiting on a Rubicon Panzer III.

>>52995566
I'm glad you like it! I'm using a reference so it helps me out a lot for the random pattern.

>>52994628
>statted properly
I know. That's my problem too. I'll make it work though.

>>52996806
mm, good idea! ill hit the stripes recesses with a little agrax and see where that takes me

>>52996904
aw thanks anon

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Anyone have a good guide for painting natural looking feathers? The GW Magnus guide does a nice job showing techniques, but I'd like to get an idea of what browns people use and how they use them.

Starting the High Warden from the Spire of Dawn kit and I haven't had to do feathers before.

>>52997086
Wont let me link it here but taleofpainters have a tutorial for doing great eagles from LotR which sounds like it could be what you're looking for.
Just google taleofpainters then search 'Great Eagles' on the site k

>>52997464
Cheers. Looks a lot better than that others I've found.

>>52997518
They need to check their privilege sometimes but in terms of explaining shit they're usually pretty good

>>52997554
>need to check their privilege sometimes
jesus fuck.
I can read the words, but I don't understand what that is even supposed to mean.
The paint little plastic dudes. Sometimes they suck GW's cock, but what does privilege even mean in that context?

is it possible to make a cork base look good?

>>52997620
Yes

>>52997596
I dunno just something we say on /sp/
In this case I think I've used the phrase to mean that they have unreasonably high opinions of themselves

>>52997620
yeah but you cant just cut a piece with some rough edges and plop it on a base and call it done.

I'm trying to model up my Only War character, but I'm having an issue in finding a suitable Chain Axe for him.

There any guides around for kitbashing or otherwise building one?

>>52998096
I'm guessing he's a guardsman, so Berzerker/orks one are oversized.

>>52998148
Kind of. It's a two handed weapon for him, so the weapon being a bit big is an issue.

My bigger issue is that I've got no reason to blow money on a full kit for a single model, and I kind of wanted to try and use the bits I've got before I just went and bought a single bit from a website.

>>52993063
From where is the left miniature, I would like to have one too.

>>52998173
Well there's the old "trim a power axe and strip the teeth of a chainsword" trick, but it's fiddly.

>>52998227
I was thinking about that, instead with a Beastmen axe(since they're two handed already), but yea, it seemed like it was going to be especially weird to try and do.

I might just try and strip a chainsword down to just the blades, then heat it a bit so I can crescent it into an axe shape.

>>52994483
Amazing.
I'm still new to all this, but have you used something gloss on the scarab to make it stand out or is it just a very well-painted feathering?

>>52995081
Wow, not anon but another, was just about ask about primers

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I found this guy hiding in an old jacket pocket a few months ago. I probably painted this in 2005 or so, back when I was underage b&.

What do you think? :^)

gay

>>52999051
good post

how do you paint your minis?

1.dark to light
2.light to dark
3.jump between them
4.other techniques

and why?

>>52996877
Thin your paints and use highlighting and shading.

>>52998983
Did he fall in a kitty litter?

Whats with that base?

Also I think thin your paints is just one aspect.

The other one gotta bay "dont drown the mini in primer spray".

>>52999120
>Did he fall in a kitty litter? Whats with that base?
Sand, then hit with primer. I guess my thought back then was "asphalt" for a base, that it might seem more space-y than being in a desert.

>The other one gotta bay "dont drown the mini in primer spray".
I know I hosed it down with Citadel Black for sure.

>>52999156
You nailed the asphalt look in a sense that it literally looks like you glued him to a piece of asphalt from a street.

I had the same weird ideas as a kid thouhg.
Right down to drilling "bullet holes" into my miniatures and doing "battle damage", which was just an excuse to do some sloppy drybrushing on the "still wet from priming" minis.

Yuck.

>>52998468
It's just green layers over black, then a white dot at the top followed by a gloss coat.

>>52994483
BEYBLADE

>>52989812
Because I've been dry brushing since 1986 and it's a useful part of my repertoire. I also happen to be very good at it. Easy to learn, hard to master- I've mastered it.

>>52994520
http://battlefront.co.nz/hobby.aspx?art_id=1026

http://battlefront.co.nz/hobby.aspx?art_id=1025

Thank me later

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Guys I feel my Base edges aren't doing them any favours. Is black the best Base edge? Is there any science or colour theory involved?

>>52999106
paint the things that go ontop last
e.g: faces before helmets

>>52999440
so there's a gloss coat, thanks

>>52999621
Worthless without proof.

Drybrushing is a scrub technique.

>>52998983

You think that shit is bad, you should see the Helves I found from when I was like 8 years old.

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This is my second attempt at painting a model and first time using a wet palette. I'm trying to figure out what's too thin, what's too thick and just get a general gauge for what I should be aiming for.

This is the first of two thin coats that I'm aiming for. Is this about right for a 'thin' coat? I feel like it's too thin because it seems to be kind of pooling. If so, how do I make paint less thin when using a wet palette?

>>52999924
See >>52999796

Now show me some of your painting, smart arse.

>>52999994
You're getting pooling because you have too much paint on your brush and you're applying too much to the model at a time.

Learning to paint really centres around two simple things - thinning your paints and not overloading your brush.

>>52999997
URL doesnt work.

>>53000013
I do try to get the excess paint off by dragging it across the palette. I'll try to work on it some more though thanks.

>>53000058
That's good, but you also need to make sure that you're not getting too much on the miniature. You can see on places like the shoulderpad and gun barrel that the paint is thicker there. The best way to do it is to lay down some paint with the brush and then smooth it over the mini with the side of your brush, at least when you're basecoating.

>>53000058

also consider using a black primer rather than white for dirtier colours, especially browns, it will take a few layers but the output will be a lot better

i've never spray primed a single model

not even a huge flier

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>>53000018
Part of a painting article I wrote for Flames of War 13 years ago

>>53000190
Thats retarded. WW2 miniatures rely on a competely different aesthetic than 40k

>>52991294
You should be ashamed of yourself

>>52991294
But in all seriousness, this is blurry as fuck, sideways and hugh mungus

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Dark Souls board game is finally here. Going to start straight on these two.

>>52995343
Looks like shit. Enjoy your meme warband that everyone will mock mercilessly behind your back lol.

>>52993528
>cardboard
Well there's your problem. Look into getting/making a wet palette, or even just some glossed ceramics or glass.

And relax on the washes a bit. This is the 'pooling towards the bottom' duncan speaks of in his videos

>>53000233
More to do with scale but yeah.

>>52999994
I guess you're using a large brush to try and paint the base layers quickly. I did the same thing when I started out, and it turned out like this. Take your time and don't rush it. Paint the sections one at a time, and know that you are a beginner and it will probably be shit

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>>53000233
So you're the final arbiter of what constitutes a proper 40k paint job are you, you cocky shit?

Here, have some 12 year old dry brushed 40k stuff.

>>53000267
>straight
Please defaggot those weapons, they're not straight

>>53000267
Those weapons are looking a bit flaccid. What material are they made of?

>>53000456
Aaand they look like absolute shit. Who'da thunk it?

>>53000499
Yeah well it's not like you'd admit they were any good. Given professional lighting and a proper camera you'd be surprised.

And I still haven't seen you ante up, champ. Go on, show us some of yours.

>>53000456
>the most basic of basic quick drybrush without details
wew

>>53000456
Looks perfectly fine. Some people think that you should be painting every single rank-and-file to display quality.

>>53000531
I also think they're a little messy, Warrick. I just don't think drybrushing armour ever looks good.

>>52991294
he-he's fast!

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hey wip, i recently came across a sprue with two skinks dated 1989, i think from a special white dwarf issue?

i was wondering if anyone knew if they had any value before i toss them to my new friend as a introduction to the hobby testing model

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Lots of work still needed but the groundwork is down

>>53000439
You're right and I was kinda starting to feel this myself. I'll base the next one with the small brush next time and see how it goes.

>>53000585
Buy yourself some rubber and make some recasts of shit for him to practice on.

>>53000586
Nice colours, high saturation.

>>53000610
He honestly feels a bit too busy while painting, particularly with the complete garbage finecast. I ended up using a tactical marine head because the finecast head is so stupid looking.

Hi guys, is gw's corax white spray supposed to be runny? It doesn't sit on the minis as well as say chaos black does even though i shook it vigorously. Did i get a faulty can?

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Why are yellows such a cunt to paint? I salvaged some ancient Tamiya lemon yellow which understandably went on horribly; I lucked my way into an aged industrial look where shit is constantly painted straight over rust and old paint. But in retrospect even the brand new pot of Averland Sunset base coat was being a bitch.

>>53000644
I can shake my can of corax white for 10 minutes straight and it still comes out powdery and useless. I hate white spray paint.

>>53000655
MOLD LINES

>>52999848
Anyone got any advice for Base edge colour?

>>53000696
I personally think black is always the best for base rims. It frames the model.

>>53000655
I know that feel matey yellow is super shit to paint. Idk what the new names are but the foundation paint Iyandun Darksun was always a good base for yellow That might help. That and golden yellow were used for my old space wolves

>>53000711
Unless you're painting something like Super Dungeon Explore and your mini is absurdly bright

>>52999848
brown flock=black edge
black sand=brown edge

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Hey WIP I need some help does anyone know what colors I would use to recreate this green/grey using citadel colors?

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>>53000585
>hey wip, i recently came across a sprue with two skinks dated 1989, i think from a special white dwarf issue?

It was to pump up WHFB Fifth Edition. The boxed set featured Bretonnians vs. Lizardmen.

>i was wondering if anyone knew if they had any value before i toss them to my new friend as a introduction to the hobby testing model

Their value is exactly two skinks worth.

The same models came in the 5th Edition box, only they were joined together, so four pairs of skinks (a total of eight models) per big sprue.

>>53000824
pretty sure some nurgle warband (the cleaved or something) comes close

>>53000657

Yeah, maybe i should coat minis with something like armypainters grey spray and then corax white

>>53000824
Celestra grey and a couple drops of straken green

>>53000678
Yep, I don't care, these minis were assembled 10+ years ago and these particular castings were absolute dogshit; so bad that I didn't even want to fix them when I dug them back out. They're just a TT quality test bed for nailing down my scheme.

>>53000747
I know, right? With very mild thinning it's still pretty claggy and shows brushmarks and the usual shit, two drops more and suddenly it's TOO THIN and flows like crazy but has the surface tension of SOUP so it just beads at the edges of where you're trying to paint!

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FUCK YELLOW.

That's all.

>>53000841
I picked up a few cans of new spray to test and I found the AP white base spray to be a little shiny & paint doesn't bind to it very well. Best replacement I have so far tried is Tamiya "fine surface primer"

>>53000849
The Lamenters yellow over Ushabti bone method works amazing for imperial fists. Not sure if it would work for hazard stripes though.

>>53000853
Prime white or brown, apply yellow

>>53000834
cool, thanks

>>53000849
Averland sunset?

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>>53000879
That's ok for a tabletop yellow.

I want this.

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>>53000891
best i ever got was this

>>53000657
Sounds more like your primer is fucked. Had that with a can of armypainter primer once, too. I've been using hardware store primer for white ever since and never looked back.

>>52995081
I would supplement this post by saying when you prime give your models a good once over with the primer but you don't want full coverage. You want spots of paint all over the model with little gaps of bare plastic in between. Like imagine a light dusting of primer over your models, that way your details stay crisp and the paint still sticks to your models.

>>53000891
>>53000926
You're going to need to do some blending to achieve that.

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I'm the dude from the last thread that kept posting maw krusha size comparisons. What does tg think of him so far? Aiming for the gw scheme do haven't done the black around the spines yey

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>>53000891
>>53000926
This is over a black primer

>>53001063
What color exactly is that?

>>53000853
It's simple. Prime with light color that compliments, base with darker yellow like averland sunset, then build up to yriel yellow, wash with sepia, highlight with bone, chip with dark red/brown.

Follow best practices and apply thin coats to build up layers. Should work fine.

>>53000891
Probably airbrushed, though there's spots with NMM that look like they had to be done by hand. Without a airbrush that'd require a high level of command over your paint and blends.

>>53001079
Multiple thin coats of averland sunset with a hexos palesun drybrush and agrax detail shade then a glaze over the whole lot with lamenters yellow.

GW now does averland sunset spraypaint which they of course released shortly after I brush painted my entire ork army.

>>53001035
Looking awesome mang. Digging the claw marks on the face.

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I got some neat forest bases for my warmachine guys (because I suck at basing normally), and some of them have a molded-on branch or two. I was thinking of going with Japanese maple trees, because they have some strikingly neat red leaves compared to the greens of a normal forest. Thing is, I'm kinda stumped on what colors to use on the bark of these branches.
>pic related, and spoilered due to size

It seems like it's almost a light grey over a khaki/tan, but IMO trying to get the grey paint that translucent that an underlying layer of paint will still be visible would just end up with grey-paint-tinted water, rather than actual paint, and I don't think a brown wash over grey paint will achieve the same effect (though I could be wrong).

I'd like to get the bases done before pinning my guys to them, if only because I know I'm not good enough to not accidentally get base colors on my finished minis. So this is a bit of a roadblock for me personally, and I'd appreciate a hand to get this done sooner rather than later.

>>53001233
Try a thinned athonian camoshade wash over a dark grey drybrushed with a lighter grey. Or maybe a mix of bone and grey.

Try it out on some sprue or whatever, that way you can experiment without fucking up something important.

Let's talk about some color combinations you just don't like for some reason:

>Blue with Red. Like police colors.

Reminds me of Optimus Prime, VR Troopers, and other stuff I'm not particularly sure I can pin down, I just don't like it.


>Dark Blue and bright orange
Too much like a nerf dart

>>53000456
I like it. I think drybryshing has its uses, but on WIP you're going to get autists who will spout dogma they learned whether it's true or not because they learned it on youtube.

Also dig the soviet theme.

You dirty communist.

>>53001401
Purple and green: Barney
Green and red: christmas/santa claus

>>53000890
Yep.

>>53001233
>spoilered due to size
why

So what do you guys do with your spare bits, i'm probably gonna have a bunch of spare ork bits from the starter kit so any suggestions or things youve done with your spares?

>>53001509
because don't have a super-huge monitor, and thought it was a lot bigger than it ended up being. I mean, I'd rather get called out for this than posting some huge fucking image that takes forever to load and isn't even a WIP shot. :V

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>>53001548
>So what do you guys do with your spare bits

Sort them according to use: heads, torsos, arms, big shootas, little shootas, bases, oddbitz, etc.

>>53001565
4chan/browser automatically adjusts the pic size for your monitor

called out for what exactly?

>forever to load

so now people who don't first read your post open up your "big" spoiler pic thinking it's a pic of miniatures and end up wasting their fucking time when they could have seen the tree from the thumbnail i have autism

>>53001548
eat them

>>53000655
It looks like your colors are flowing into each other because you're too impatient.

>>53001171

Thanks anon, moving onto nuln oiling around the spikes now.
This dude is pretty fun to paint for anyone on the fence about him

>>53001632
Just nuln? Not gonna mix a little deep brown in there?

>>53001098
Dont feel too bad. The rattlecan averland is different than from the pot. The only good thing about it is that all i have to do is one coat of averland instead of multiple

which citadel colors do you recommend for red tabards/capes for marines? i want them to be somewhat blazing and painted on black base paint

>>53001903
I use doombull brown > agrax earthshade > khorne red > mephiston red

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>>53001903
>which citadel colors do you recommend for red tabards/capes for marines?

Citadel's Base colour for this is Mephiston Red. I prefer a brighter red, so I start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, even though it is a layer paint. Going up from there, the colours are Wild Rider Red and then Troll Slayer Orange. I don't have Fire Dragon Bright, but if you needed to go even lighter, it's brighter than Troll Slayer Orange.

Have you considered pre-painting the cloth areas with a thin coat of a light colour like yellow or white prior to applying the red?

>>53001587
I need to get me this kind of set up.

>>53001663
Yeah thats the next step then finish with abaddon black

>>53001929
sounds a bit muffled for what i'm going for

>>53001993
fire dragons are a bit too orange too. mephiston red should work fine on black

>>53000297
you don't have many friends, do you anon?

>>53000853

Cassandora yellow shade over an off white or bone color.

>>53000655
How do you even paint checkerboard patterns and hazard stripes?

Seriously. When I tried it it turned out like that guy too.

>>53000487
>>53000462
It's like a soft plastic. I'm not sure how I can fix the hammer as it's the weight that's made it flop down.
The models aren't as good quality as they looked like they were going to be on the kickstarter

I want to get back into miniatures.
Last time I did anything with miniatures was 20 years ago. Got no colors, no tools, no anything.
What would be a good starter set?

>>53002329
tamiya masking tape

>>53002595
Depends, what kind of thing do you want to do? Actual wargaming or just collecting? Are there any particular systems you want to play or do you just want something that looks cool

>>53002595
I wouldn't buy any kind of sets. Pick a project and buy what you need to for it.

>>53002427

>Kikestarter meme project turns out to be a shit quality cash grab
>Color me surprised

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Some Stirland swordmen, I still have to do the banner and another regular guy

>>53002329
this
>>53002662
Tamiya have masking tape in different widths for stuff like this and its a stronger bond than regular masking tape

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>>53001618
Joke's on you, that's actually masked off with tape, the black ran because masking doesn't really work with brushed paint.

If you're referring to the 'muddy' yellow that's because I hit it with a shitload of Agrax Earthshade to deliberately accentuate the horrible surface texture because it reminded me of pic related.

>>53001063
How the fuck did you get such a smooth finish out of Averland Sunset?! I've thinned the absolute fuckery out of mine and it still shows brush marks like crazy RRRREEEEE

>>53002662
>>53002841
I'm >>53000655 and I'm using Tamiya's flexible 3mm narrow masking tape, paint leeches under the surface like a bastard because it's really not that sticky.

>>53002887
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo

>>53002667
>>53002673
I'd like to do some specialist game.

>>53002937
Under literally any other circumstances I wouldn't have any issues, but IW hazard stripes on shoulder pads are the perfect storm, it's a spline curved surface which makes masking difficult, and I'm brush painting on which is usually a huge no-no but the work area size barely justifies an airbrush, and I'd need extensive masking to protect my already-airbrushed titanium silver basecoat.

This 3mm tape is the only thing I've found that's even remotely flexible enough to follow the pauldron's curve, but the adhesion sucks ass.

>>53003130
I guess i'd be doing the shoulders separate and the stripes before anything else.

Lets say I'm about to buy horus hersey or warhammer silver tower and I havent painted miniatures in 20 years.
How likely am I going to fuck it up?
Should I buy some cheap miniatures first to try it out?

>>53003343
at the least I'd start with a squad.

On the other hand the sheer volume of information that's available now compared to 20 years ago is kind of insane so this does shorten the learning curve or re-familiarisation whatever. There's probably a specific guide for what you want to do.

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Hey does anyone know of a good primer alternative to the GW's primers? They are not supplied on my country AND I am looking for a good alternative, not a shitty one.

>>53002859
>Averland Sunset

You might be dealing with a bad pot or something. Mine goes on smooth as anything. Hell, I recently did a fairly large freehand with it on a Rhino with at least 20 layers in some places and it still looks good.

>>53002784
these are looking great but i think another level of highlights would really make them pop. just take an even lighter shade of all your highlights and put them in the middle of your current highlights.

the feathers could use a light dry brushing too, to soften them up.

>>53001063
love this

>>53001035
looking good so far. hopefully the spines will break it up a bit.

>>53000891
legendary

>>53000586
looking good so far

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Here's what I'm currently working on. Haven't painted in a couple years and it's a very early wip but I figured I'd post it

Sticky miniatures.
So.. what did I do wrong?
The miniatures feel sticky, even after drying.
They dont feel like they should.

>>53000891
That one is clearly airbrushed.
Foundation is airbrushed, detail painted on.

>>52993657
Bretty gud, would play against army of these fellows.

>>53003775
reaper bones?

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well that's one weeabork finished

just needs more work on the helmet
and the flag for his back
and the base

>>53003883
Fucking khornate Joggalo

>>53003955
You not gonna work the GS into sharper plates?

>>53003683
>dated 2013
>10ml of thinner later it's still soup
I bought it from GW because I wasn't going near my LGS on the way home, and the little prick pretty much grabbed this pot and handed it to me. I wonder if he knew it was old and shitty.

What's a good color for sickly bone? I'm painting up the vents of bone on typhus and I'm curious what would look alright with it

>>53004061
Paint it a Ushabti Bone and then give it an allover wash with Athonian Camoshade. After that go back and highlight with Ushabti Bone again.

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Welp. Just about done aside from fixing the base rim and sticking another layer of varnish on him. Not my favourite but he will do.

>>53003955

oh and that's one boy out of 10 I need for the campaign which starts on the 8th (I started work last week)

whee

>>53003977
>You not gonna work the GS into sharper plates?

that'll be part of the eventual touch ups

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>>53000891
This was my attempt at yellow I did a while ago

>>53002007
You know, you need to post some description of what you're doing or what you want to achieve, or didn't quite achieve

Just posting a pic like this will not make anyone reply - this being the odd exception of course

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>>53003722
I like what you're doing with the growths, looks neat.
I think you could do some highlighting on the muscles to make them really stand out (pic related).

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WIP genestealer cultists for Shadow War. I'm pretty happy with how quick I was able to get these guys to this point. 8 dudes in 5 days is really good for me. I was just going to for tabletop quality, so I hope they turned out alright. Bases aren't done in this picture, obviously.

>>52998096
Victoria has some, might be fuckhuge for a guardsmen tho.

>http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/scalptaker-chain-axe-x4

Anvilindustry also has some, but they have armored hands attached.

> http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Wargaming-Chain-Axes

Lastly, Kromlech has a two handed one that may be perfect for you.

>http://bitsofwar.com/home/412-legionary-chain-axes.html

>>53004727
I see them Riddler's new henchmen are packing heat.

>>52995343
Who is he waving to?

>>53004774
His mom, she comes to all his raids on imperial settlements.

>>53004727

thanks doc

>>53004567
I'm gonna highlight them for sure. I was looking online at pictures of the hands and I saw that people painted the skin around the growth as skin and not as much stoney so I might change it, but otherwise thanks!

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>>53002595
I recommend finding out what kind of models you want to paint first: eldar, ogres, marines, frostgrave soldiers, skaven, skeletons, malifaux gremlins or whatever.
Then, find the most prominent colors used to paint these. For gremlins you would want some bright green for the skin and maybe blue for the denim, and whatever for whatever details you have, while for skeletons you want cream colors and metals, and maybe browns for leathers and rags. Yiu get the idea.
Then, if you want to use citadel colors, use this chart, and pick the darkest and the brightest tone of the corresponding color -on the LAYERING side! - and also the wash. When startig out, the midtone can be sufficiently cheated in by mixing the oher two, so don't worry about this yet. For example, if you want cream colors for the bone, pick up Zandri Dust, Screaming Skull, and the wash seraphim Sepia. For green skin, waaagh! flesh, skarsnik green, and biel-tan green. Etc.
If you want to use eome other brand, which is often freferrable, the process is the same. You just need to find the appropriate colors yourself, as I don't know them. Do mind that the washes from citadel (games workshop) are considered to be great, so I recommend you pick up at least some of these. It should also be noted that you can skip some of the washes and just use others without fucking shit up too much. A pot of agrax earthshade and a pot of nuln oil will work on almost anything, at least while just starting out.
This should build a nice starting range of colors at least. If you don't go crazy and buy lots of different types of models, he number of pots you buy this way should be quite small.

That's my tips on the paints at least. You also need to get a pair of clippers, an xacto knife, plastic glue (the one with the metal needle from revell) and pencils of course.

Oh yeah, and primer, which is not! paint.

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Im putting together a terminator character for a senario, what do you guys think?

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>>52988719
Im trying my luck with on of these chinese wooden kids models.

Scale seems to be allrigth + it's a nice help at the start of terrain making (costed less than 1$).

Currently filling the gaps with styrofoam to imitate boards.

Any thoughts?

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Finished the metal basecoat before I go in with the gold on Ornstein

>>53003888
Nope, citadel.

>>53004418
Would look better if you had shaded or highlighted it.

>>53003775
What stage are the minis at? Primed? Painted? Sealed?

>>53004010
Hey I'm the traktor kannon anon, it generally takes me 3-4 thinned coats of averland over a black primer. I use black for the simple reason that ive always used it and dont feel like changing but averland gives pretty good coverage. It ends up a really shitty mustard colour but after the glaze it yellows up nicely.

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>>53005534
>Any thoughts?

Nigel Stillman would declare that "cereal packet is ideal!"

>tfw ordered paints and IG starter pack
>terrified of ending up on one of those painting gore galleries i just got done dying over from laughter

no amount of tutorials and preparation will prevent my first models from having meltface, right?

>>53005994
always remember to thin your paints

>>53005954
I know it's not impressive as is, but I'm about to cover it all around with 3mm xps. Also the blobs of glue on the roof should imitate straw when finished. hopefully.

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What paints would I need to achieve this tan color?

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>>53003641
The one you posted is good if you can get that.

>>53004152
Absolutely hideous. I love it!

>>53006410
Base Zandri Dust
Shade Agrax Earthshade
Layer Ushabti Bone
Highlight Screaming Skull

>>53001548
I leave them attached to the sprue in their boxes til I need them. That way if I need say a combat knife, I know there are a few in my CSM squad box. I keep all the boxes on a book shelf.

>>53006621
thanks pham

>>53003641
Tamiya's primer spray cans.

New thread


>>53007021
>>53007021

>>53004152
Everything but the black carapace is up to your usual good standard. It really needs some attention, even a simple drybrush of grey would add the necessary interest.

For someone with your painting style though, surely you could stretch yourself to a cool insectoid pattern - black and yellow like on Phil Kelly's old Nid army would look excellent and tie the carapace in with the boils and flesh tone.

I really like your Nurglites by the way, they look great and your conversions are very well executed.

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So I've got a bunch of stuff I wanna convert, but I wanna hold off until the new edition in case I make something that I can't use in-game.

Decided to throw together a quick barricade from Stronghold Assault out of some leftover bits and sprues. About to start tidying it up before I realised they might change the Obstacles list from Stronghold Assault too...