WIP General

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Wash anon here.

Another anon asked if my washes only technique would work on vehicles. The answer is yes, but do to the larger surface area it was left a bit streaky. Easily covered with battle damage and weathering but if you like a clean look it's probably not for you.

>pic related
My stormraven painted using washes for the yellow.

>base Zandri dust
>recess wash seraphim sepia
>liberal wash of cassandora yellow
>liberal glaze of lamentors yellow

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>>51983499
Just glossed my ba and am about to sahde then seal it

Am painting his head seperate since he has a face

Tried some more extreme highlights this time, hard to tell with gloss on though

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Since it got lost among shitposts last thread:

Progress on designing my Archmagos' torso. Thoughts so far?

Sorry for shitty image but didn't know how to properly show the important parts with the thing lying.

>>51983541
Fuck man love that yellow, by the way how did you do the base? Been thinking about doing something similar for my Iron Warriors.

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About finished with basecoating this beast, ork trukk conversion from a half track

>>51983903
Cheers dude!

The base is GWs martian earth texture paint. Then once dried wash with agrax earthshade. Mix an orange/red (whatever colour you prefer) weathering powder with white spirits and dab it into terrain recesses. Finally, once everything is dry stipple weathering powder over the entire thing.

>>51983956
taking ideas on improving it, gray parts are gonna be much darker later on, and gunner not pictured.

>>51983956
looks really good

>>51983956
id work just a little more on the yellow and touch it up a bitch, looks thin in some places

>>51984057
sure thing boss, anything else? this is my first proper conversion ever.

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Just finished shading and am alm9st done, gonna add some small highlights


Thinking of doing a power sword effect since its taken me less than an hour to do this guy

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>>51983956
This looks amazing, I wish my gw store would allow other companies model because I would do the same.

Starting to basecoat my Looted wagon, what are you guys working on?

>>51984494
Thanks! Amazon has all kinds Tamiya models for sale, this half track model i used was about 12 euros. You should take a look.

>>51984494
oh, and make sure its 1/35 scale, anything smaller is too small for orks

>>51984494
too much paint bro

>>51984644
Nah, it was drying, i just wanted to post something.

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>>51984300
Halfway done with sword

Spillee blue paint on him and had to fix it

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Finished with the skin I think. Too tired to take on 6 plaguebearers worth of pustules right now so I'll continue tomorrow. They're very bright but the gore, pustules, swords and bases will bring them together when they're done.

My friend just started an Ork army.

What are some of your favorite places to get Ork bits?

>>51985223
Kromlech has quite a few exotic options for Orks

>>51984300
>it's taken me less than an hour
Teach me your secrets.

>>51985245
Base the colour that covers almost the entire miniature...

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Any alclad experts here? Is it a known problem that their candies can have some horrific gritty texture?

The super smooth red is candy red, the mess is candy ruby red by itself and mixed with some normal red.

Thing is I can't find any mentions at all online of this issue.

>>51985161
Dem bootays

>>51985264
I mean, mine are about 80% one color and each one (Mark 3) still takes me 3-5 hours.

>ordering more shit
>still have a ton of shit to assemble
>even more to paint

Why am I doing this...

>>51983956
>>51983974
where the fugg did you get all those bits

>>51985352
Well it only looks like he's painted some details then done a brown wash over the whole thing.

>>51985374
I bought an ork trukk a while ago but ended up hating how it looked, so i took a hammer to it. Its all trukk bits except for a few glyph plates.

>>51985243
Kromlech is really great. Gotten several minis and bits from them, and the mold quality is outstanding, along with the sculpts being fun.

I got the Warbus from puppetswar, by comparison, and while I'm happy with it, it had a lot more build issues than any of the Kromlech stuff.

>>51985245
First i zenithal shade, then base in mephiston, then highlight, gloss, line shade with agrax (crimson wasnt bold enough), seal woth matt finish, line highlight just a bit and then do the head

Im actually done and it took me around 1 hour 10 min since i also did the sword, am in class for the next hour so cant upload

>>51985243
Ebay, every now and then ppl sell piles of ork bits for super cheap.

>>51985417
The trick is to actually not just throw down shades since you then need to clean them up after, i gloss it then only put shade in the recesses so i dont have to repaint the areas that are not supossrd to have shade

>>51985289
I'll ask a question first. Did you ever use acrylic paints in that airbrush before you threw your alclad paints through there? Because that looks like something started clumping in the paint, rather than the paint itself being bad...

>>51985289
Lacqueer paint user

so where does /wip/ get its green stuff from? GW is almost certainly a colossal ripoff the way it usually is. But if there's not a hugely better alternative I'll just buy GW

>>51985576
I've bought mine from Wayland Games, but if they don't have it in stock when you order you will be waiting a while.

>>51985576
amazon. kneadatite. you'll get more than you ever need.

>>51985666
m8 there's like a zillion distributors?

>>51985607
element games pull the same shit

>>51985223
Honestly just buy any type of ork vehicle like a battlewagon and it comes with a shitton of bits to make it orky

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>>51985536
No no, I have yet to shoot them through my airbrush. I'm waiting to get my respirator first, so I just used a brush to slap it on an old spoon I had to check out the colors.

Both got a minute of vigorous shaking, both applied with the same brush. The candy red goes perfectly on, the candy ruby red turns into that gritty mess.

Also I doubt it's a poor reaction to the paint under, because on the ceramic tile I used it also dried exactly the same way.

>>51985289
>>51985870

Alclad needs to be thinned with a proper thinner (enamel/lacquer) like at least 1:1. Are you using it unthinned?

That's the reason Vallejo Metallic Color is popular: it's acrylic and needs far less thinning than the messy Alclads.

>>51985870
He real question is why are you using laquer paint?

>>51983654

Looks nice and clean even before shading. The highlights were well done, it makes the model not flat but I wouldn't have known you highlighted it unless you told me or pointed out the brighter red parts. This is the kind of realistic lighting that miniature painting shoots for.

>airbrushed/10

>>51985366
old business is just old business

>>51985912
It's unthinned, but you're not supposed to thin Alclad. At the very least I've never seen anyone do that, and they certainly don't get this weird effect.

>>51985569
>>51985927
Because why not? It's a beautiful transparent color that is different from, and that I like more than tamiya and minitaire.

>>51985976
Thanks anon, the pre shading i did under all the red helped a lot, usually dont do it for infantry but im thinking of doing it from now on

>>51986026
Because its toxic, expensive, and harder to work with with no real benefit

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Had a pretty productive day basecoating with the airbrush yesterday.

>>51986026

My bad you are right I was thinking of another brand. Alclad even says if you thin it you might fuck up the mix! Definitely don't listen to me.

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I paint like a retard, but at least i paint

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After botching one of these back in 2015 when I was new to the hobby, I look forward to maybe doing a decent job of this one

>>51986269
Doom Minis?

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Umm, hi sweeties. can someone say something constructive about my fire warrior?

>>51986293
>uses citadel plastic glue

Was gonna say something nice but just no

>>51986292
Yeah from the 2004 version

>tfw no ctrl-z

Anyone else here into painting zomnicide minis?

>>51986293
Thin your paints

No, that's not just a meme. It looks like parts of your model have the texture of sandpaper

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Posting more of my custodes. Just "finished" my third aquilon terminator. Criticisms/suggestions before I move on to regular squads?

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>>51986317

I thought you guys told me to support my FLGS

>>51986378

it was the spray """primer""". Gave me a bubbly texture because I sprayed too close.

>>51986350
>tfw no ctrl + v

What's /tg/'s opinion on mixed armor marks?

I'm running Inquisition-allied Space Marines, and for visual distinction's sake, I'm thinking about using Deathwatch Mk8 torsos on my veteran sergeants and my Captain (the Blackshield version in the latter case). It's on Mk2/Mk3 armor, which lorewise isn't easily compatible... But they've got a robust team of techmarines and artificiers that could adapt the pattern with a lot of work, fluffwise. The Mk3 parts do fit, I've already test fitted them to check.

>>51986293
Also, that strip of ammo is placed where the firewarrior couldn't possibly ever reach it and therefore looks silly

>>51986392
Shoulda read the instructions

>>51986392
Remove it then and apply again, is pretty easy

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Quick paint job I did. Whatcha think?

1/2

>>51986437
I have no problems with that paintjob or model.

>>51983964
Duncan? Is that you buddy?

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>>51986293
Nice scheme

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>>51986437

2/2

>>51986491
Not bad how long did it take you

>>51986514
~Give or take 5 hours.
Skin turned out nice and I felt the rest of the model deserved the same attention.

>>51986437
look clean - fine work

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>>51986529
>5 hours
>on a grot
>singular
I salute you anon. I know I couldn't.

>>51986653

Oh yeah. I had invited as a guest painter to a local hobby event. Nobody came except this one guy. 40+. kicked back and then recited everything Duncan does.

I couldn't help but think.... Dude, please just leave.
Then my focus fell on this little grot after mucking about with some nurglings.

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Throwing this out there again, finally figured out what torso the creator used. Just regular cataphractii terminator parts cut down.

>>51986722

why does everyone like this conversion so miuc

is this the holy grail of conversion work?

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In the middle of painting up a test model for my Sylvaneth, still got loads of stuff to do to it. I'm leaning towards giving up and stripping it though, the grey doesn't seem like it's going to work very well as a main body colour.
If I do carry on i'm unsure about what colour to do the scythe and the bug on her shoulder

I diddn't drybrush the skin and i'm beginning to think that maybe I should have because it just looks reaaaly flat to me

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I want to achieve same colour as pic related (it's going to be a scheme to my Stormcast army).
In tutorial, an artist was using Hawk Turqoise form old GW palette. Atm it's Sotek Green which is too dark imo.

Any recommendations which colour I could use? I thougt about AP Hydra Turquoise, but I've never used AP paints before.

>>51986741
It's because like 90% of the GW/FW line for chaos/nurgle is just dogshit. That's just good mini design with attention to detail, save the chest tubes that are a bit unsightly.

>>51986867
Check out Vallejo and Reaper lines of paint, they have look alikes.

>>51985161
they're so colorful, anon... i love them!

>>51986391
THIN
get rid of those lumps, anon.

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>>51984997
Just finished tvis guy took me an bour and fifteen give or take

1/2

>>51986437
looking really good, anon!! what colors did you use for the skin?

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>>51987048
2/2

Sorry for shitty lighting sun just set

>>51986472
Maybe
:^)

This might be a weird question but can anyone recommend a good lamp? One that doesn't get too hot or blind me while painting.

>>51987156
just use a variable led lamp.

>>51983541
Please explain your method of achieving totally dank red tinted canopies

>>51987234
I just used tamiya clear red spray. Couple of coats either side and bobs your uncle.

>>51987048
>that perfectly shaved bald head
dauym

>>51987259
Neat, thanks!

>>51987048
Hit that service stud, player. Looks nice.

>>51987274
i could add stubble but

A.) i dont want to fuck it up since im busy
B.) if i fuck it up i have to fix it because im a bit of a perfectionist

Working on a warband for Mordheim, gonna play as Carnival of Chaos.

Anyone got some tips/pointers?
Will be my first time playing Mordheim.

Sorry for the crap picture.

>>51987370
no no, leave it, it looks pretty fucking badass. :D
The only thing it's missing is a cool anime shine effect.

>>51987393
>tips?
ya next time post the pic

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>>51987398
>cool anime shine effect
mfw he can reflect and focus light with his baldness and his head counts as a melta pistol

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>>51987393
Ofc I forget including the picture...

From left to right:
Carnival Master - Morning star + Pistol.

Brute - Double-handed Weapon.

Tainted One - Club + Shield + Light Armour + Bloated Foulness.

Tainted One - Axe + Sword + Nurgle's Rot.

Also playing on having one more Brute with Double-handed Weapon and four Nurglings.

>>51987442
>his bald head counts as a melta

ok I chuckled

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I guess I've finished my Death Company Dread apart from basing it. I feel like there's something missing from it though. Maybe a good base will help. Any suggestions?

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>>51987076
Also did a cadian while the ba was drying first one ever, thoughts?

Did him in around 30 min, tried to make him look a bit cartooney

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>>51987048

>>51987496
I almost never do flat black because its hard to shade things that are black, i almost always opt for a dark grey instead

>>51987398
>cool anime shine effect

>bright white light washes over his smooth bald head
>it culminates into a piercing star
>PING!

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>>51987470

Here's a side view on my favorite of the bunch.

>>51987709
not that familiar with mordhiem but the greenstuff looks solid

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>>51987709
And one from the other side.

Probably going to use him as a scroll caddy in my Nurgle army aswell.

>>51983863

Gonna look sick, looking forward to him getting the rest of his body

>>51987709
Use less greenstuff. Thin it out into a pancake, cut to size and then place the thin section to the model and press edges lightly with a sculpting tool. Then smooth over with ample amount of water.

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>>51987743
Thanks mate, it's a bit messy in some spot (especially the front ends of his jacket) but overall I'm satisfied with how he turned out.

>>51987799
>Thanks for the input.
Are you saying that I should've built the jacket by using small pieces of greenstuff which I mesh together into the jacket or should I've just have used a thinner sheet of greenstuff?

>>51987890
Didn't mean to have the first sentence as a quote.

>>51987890
Might also be worth pointing out that the jacket is meant to be like a short sleeved gambeson (to represent the light armour) which the fella' have grown too fat for. That's why I made it so thick but if there are better ways to go about achieving that let me know.

>>51987496
The Xs could use some edge highlights as could the metal areas. The claws need to be blended better, it just looks like bands of coloring like the color test strips at home depot. Try wetblending the blues instead. The gems on the center of the torso and on the left of the model still need paint

>>51987890
Do your best at recreating the natural seams but it may not be possible. If all else fails just cover the most surface area and go from there, joining sections with very thin strands of GS melding it all together with AMPLE water. Too much water will break down the putty however so just don't knock it off your flattener when you dip it while sculpting
If you don't have a atleast one putty knife with a blade side and a flattening side you really need one.

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Still working away on my Imperial Fists test model, he's getting closer now.

Can't decide whether to do the shoulder-pads silver or black though - I originally wanted silver but I kind of like the black primer.

>>51988054

I know, I'm a phoneposter. My bad.

>>51988054
you should clean up some of that shade it would go a long way for your model.

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>>51988013
>short sleeved gambeson
It's all too easy with a sculpting tool really. Making sewn patterns and sections isn't difficult with the blade edge.

>>51988029
I actually don't own one of them. Will have to get one eventually. And thanks for the tip about water. And I definitely need to work on my water usage as I've tend to use way to much of it.

>>51988078

You're right, it looked way better before I tried the Agrax shade haha.

How would you recommend doing it?

>>51988089
I'd probably manage to pull it off with the tools I'm using but I'm just so afraid of messing it all up. However a thick leather jacket is quite the fashion statement aswell.

Hey, I need to get a chaos star to bend and fit my contemptor. What is the best way to bend it to shape if the contemptor is already painted?

>>51988107
its easy, just take your base base you used for the yellow and repaint the areas were the shade is not supposed to be.

shades are amazing, but cant just be applied then forgotten, you also got to clean it up


alternativly you have the option to apply a gloss layer to your mini like i did here>>51984997 and only apply the shade to the areas you want to have shade in them, the gloss causes the cracks to suck it up.

>>51988144
what is the start made of? resin or plastic.

>>51988094
It helps to use alot of water in the flattening process, I highly suggest using a ceramic plate or ceramic tile (what I use for green stuff and painting when I'm not using a wet palette) while working with it. Dab water onto the tile, place the putty on the water so it won't stick to the tile ruining it, dab water onto the putty and rinse repeate until it's the thickness of one of the millimeter ticks on the left hand side. With water you may have to coax it from the tile if you're working with it for a bit and with water you have to place it onto the model so it won't stick to the tool. Avoid fingerprints but they can be smoothed out, water on your finger tips alleviates the issue somewhat.

>>51988175
Plastic, it's the one from the Chaos Vehicle sprue. although I should probably just buy a bunch of the FW metal ones for projects like this

>>51988198
Thanks, this will help me a great deal!

>>51988205
if its plastic and not resin then heat water until its almost boiling and then throw the star in there for a bit

take it out a bit later and it should be easier to mend.

>>51988216
Thanks

>>51983499
WIP GENERAL, saving the thumbnail edition

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>>51988215
>>51988198
Forgot the picture.
Sculpting is easier than people think, you just need a general knowledge.

>>51988025
Yeah I know I don't like the claws either. The videos make it look easier than it is. I'm thinking about just repainting them metal with more of a naturalistic look.

The cross and metal parts are definitely highlighted though. Metal with a drybrush of Necron Compound, wash and runefang steel highlight over the Base coat. Cross with Evil Sunz Scarlet and wildrider red. Maybe the lighting isn't showing it up well enough.

>>51988314
And it sure is fun!
Easily the best part of completing a model.

>>51988311
>Autism

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Been thinking about paintschemes for my freeborn ferals.
Third one is just the first one, but with the weapons a brighter shade?

Which one looks best and why?

>>51986293
Indeed, careful with the primer next time, and you want to paint off whites rather than pure whites, otherwise you won't have anything to highlight it with.
Start with celestra grey on white primer, then layer with ulthuan grey and edge highlight white scar.

Your model is still pretty good nonetheless.

>>51986722
Where do you get the brass tubes from?

>>51988758
zinge.co.uk slash collections slash poseable-wrapped-wire

>>51988824
Thanks bruv.

>>51988862
They also have poseable resin tubing, I know there are miniature companies that actually sell press moulds to make your own tubing out of greenstuff.

>>51988883
Green Stuff Industries Tentacle Maker is super useful. It's pretty expensive for what it is, though. I got it on sale.

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Almost finished with this and I am am slowly getting to the point where I am doing more mistakes than progress on the model.

This is my first "Hero-type" Model I've done so far

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converted Marneus Calgar. very WIP.
1/4

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2/4

>>51986001

The problem is that I probably shouldn't even be spending the money until my tax money gets here.

>>51986529

I spend about that much or more on my shit. It's really bad when I sit down and say "eh, I'll just base coat a model real quick before bed" and then five hours later I'm touching up highlights and shit.

>>51986679

I did something like that recently.

One of my LGS owners invited me to host a painting event because some other shop (maybe even GW?) sent him a box primed starter cultists and snap on Marines, paints, and brushes. Only two people showed up, this guy and his GF, but they were really excited about it. The dude was really into the lore and stuff. He was into Bangles, so I ran then through painting a basic blood angle, which I had honestly never done before. I found myself unintentionally quoting Duncan a lot, but it worked out.

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3/4

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4/4

>>51986755

The only issue I have with the grey is that it kinda looks like unprimed plastic. However, with some highlighting/drybrushing I think it'll look good. Maybe find/mix a really pale purple/violet to go with the purple shading?

>>51989460
>>51989434
>>51989362
>>51989271

These are really cool, two questions

what is that helmet
how did you do that blue?

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>>51989271
>>51989362
>>51989434
>>51989460
You paint well, might as well take 30 seconds to make it enjoyable to look at your model.

>>51989576
He used Asterion Moloch as a base.

>>51988054
Watch them moldlines, player.

>>51988054
Use a small brush and apply your shade to the recesses instead of the flat surfaces next time. Save a lot of work cleaning the armor

>>51983956
>Ronald Morkdonald's personal vehicle

>>51989576
helmet's part of the asterion moloc i used as a base, i just filed off some little detail on the top part of it. (would be very hard to remove from model without first destroying the model lol)

The blue is layering/wet blending. Primed black then, prety much used mixes of caledon sky/drakenhoff nightshade/sotek green and white. i usually start by drybushing a mix of white/sotek green over the raised parts/parts i want to be brightest, then just sorta do thin layers/some wet blending from there. kinda weird/all over the place process... I spend a lot of time painting lol. The pic with the other marine in there, yeah total painting time of both would be about 3-4 days, easy and they aren't done and there's about 5 more to go before I start other stuff...

>>51989585
I'm actually the pinnacle of shitposting cause i'm Australian and posting off a phone due to my cuntries third world internet. sorry lol, but thanks for putting that image together, saved.

>>51988697
I like the first one becausw of the tones/colouration of them and prefer the gray over white

>>51987091
duncan ?

>>51990018
no, that doesnt look like duncans work

>>51989247
Looks really good!
Nice to see the progress!

>>51986269
How did you manage to get hold of the Doom 3 board game? It's out of print which is a shame as I wanted to paint it up.

>>51986437
Your quick paintjob is better than 99% of the shit posted here. You should probably find some where else to post unless you're here to help scrubs.

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>>51986409
>What's /tg/'s opinion on mixed armor marks?

Our faith shields us!

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How bad are my ravens?

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>>51990859
>How bad are my ravens?

Not bad, but you might have traded wiv yer mates to avail yerself of more Mk VI helmets!

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Putting together a bunch of Malifaux stuff, including a couple of models that I won at tournaments.

>>51983964
Alright awesome, thanks bud

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First attempt. How well did I do?

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>>51991187
THIN YOUR PAINTS is a meme for a reason, dude

>>51991187

[Dawn of War vox screaming intensifies]

>>51991187
I like how bad the paint job is but you managed to put in some decent blended highlights in the bolter and shoulders. White is a hard color to paint so it seems like you are biting off more than you can chew. Focus on achieving thin and smooth layers by thinning down your paints and practice painting tiny details within the lines such as the eyes. Prime with white or grey not black.

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Working on my Looted wagon

...I fucked up the angery faces...
1/3

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How do I fix?
2/3

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The top came out fine, I guess
3/3

>>51991294
>>51991242
I thinned as much as I thought was necessary, though i may still have gone a bit over, but I also was painting over a previous paintjob which made it difficult.

>>51991451
if you are painting light colors just base using a spray can of white

>>51991451
>painting over a previous paintjob
Well there's your problem.

Old paint can be removed with various cleaning agents, of which Simple Green is the mildest and safest to use on plastic. Thickening your paint to choke out the pigment of a preexisting layer just ends up looking like a hearty layer of toothpaste.

>>51991451
>but I also was painting over a previous paintjob which made it difficult.
Don't ever do that. Strip it. Look up a tutorial, it's not that hard and you're marines wont look like paint nurgles.

Just spilled my paint water all over myself.

FUCK

>>51991417
love the sad face on the drone top. was wondering what you were going to do with that,

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Working on a meme team for Blood Bowl.
A completely unviable skeleton team made to look as dumb as I could.

Couldn't find a suitable Mummy model so I just messed with one of the AoS Khorne models to make em.

>>51991561
But he is painting nurgle

>>51991430
dump it in simple Green, start over, Thin your fucking paints.

>>51991707
>instead of constructive criticism I'll spout a meme without actually looking at the entire model
Fuck off

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>>51991690
And recent work on my first team. I've built like five others since these fat fucks but I just started basing and skin work on them.
Never ever basing something black if I'm painting yellow and flesh again.

>>51991828
Looks nice, shine a light on them next time, hard to see but they look really good from what I can see

>>51986377
About to paint a pack of heroes and the NPC-2 pack then send them off to a buddy.

>>51986391
Either his legs look too short, or his torso is too long. I think it's the latter. Post next to a Stormcast and a regular Custodes, if you have them.

>>51989247
You convert way better than you paint or photograph minis.

Hair is flat / a mess, white on dress is flat, gold on train is messy. Eyes look like she fell victim to the inked-up binoculars trick.

Highlights on the dress look to be pink, which doesn't help your red at all, and the black? recesses are a look that could work but really doesn't here.

>>51983863
he looks sick, anon. What bits did you use to make him? I'm not familiar with mechanicus bits but some of that looks like the Kastelan torso? Where's the head and cable bundle coming from? Looking forward to updates

>>51991690
These are fucking amazing anon. The one carrying his own head under his arm killed me.

>>51990859
>>51990888
No beaks = bad
Ravens with no beaks = VERY BAD

But really that's a pretty good paint job. You stayed in the lines and your layers are thin enougsh to show off the sharpness of the minis. Just needs more thin highlights.

Also Ravens deserve beaks so give those poor lads proper helmets

This Cataphractii Captain from B@C actually seems like a model you can assemble before painting and not want to kill yourself. Am i wrong?

>>51991707
>Simple Green
Shit does nothing, stop spouting this shitty product.

>>51992624
You didn't use concentrate.
I prefer Super Clean myself. Rinse them without gloves once for the life experience

>>51992678
I see. I've tried to find Super Clean here but no luck.

>>51992709
>>51992678
There's a purple stripping agent that I forgot the name of that works magic

>>51992775
Purple Power?
CastrolClean something or another?
>>51992709
Just mail order it man it's dirt cheap

>>51991735
M8, it is constructive. The paint is thick as fuck, you pushed it off the first time you got told and then it looks like shit.

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I'm new to the hobby I've basecoated my first 15 guardsmen and I'm just wondering if my stuff looks okay before I wash and highlight.
Also what is the most commonly accepted definition of tabletop standard, there are so many opinions on what it is I'm confused and nervous that I might look like an asshole for playing with rookie paint jobs

>>51987048
To be honest I think it's a bit of a shame that you're emphasising finishing quickly. It's neat so you can probably paint well but because you've stopped where you are without highlighting or picking out any details it looks dull and unfinished. If you batch paint it's perfectly possible to finish models quickly and reach a higher level of finish.

>>51993156
Also do I have to paint the eyeballs or will a flesh wash and highlights on the face be sufficient

>>51993183
No you don't, not with guardsmen anyway. It looks like you've done a nice neat job.

>>51993156
>>51993183
Looks pretty smooth, maybe some touch ups on his right cuff and left fingertips. You've got a good start. And yeah, just washing is fine. With guard infantry, there's so many of them that trying to do every pair of eyes will be a time-consuming pain in the ass, plus Cadians always seemed to have the smallest eyes.

>>51991828
>Never ever basing something black if I'm painting yellow and flesh again
it's not like it's hard, if you use the right colors over black.

>>51993230
Personally I always base white, I can't see the benefit of basing in white.

I'm going to be painting some Kairic Acolytes and Tzaangors soon, and I wanted to give the Silver Shields a mirror finish after I give them heat discoloration.

Any ideas on how to do that? I was guessing using a really high-gloss varnish, but I'm not sure.

Does anyone have the Ironjawz painting guide pdf?

I want to paint my Ironjawz either a bright orange or a bright green color. Does it make sense to prime them orange/green instead of black/white?

So you know, the skin won't be green.

>>51993215
>>51993224
I'll be sure to touch up the fatigues and hands
Thanks for the kind words and advice my dudes

>>51993156
Dude, I would much rather play against a badly painted army than an army that's just gray plastic or just primered. That's easily tabletop standard

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First time doing a base. How did I do?

So I bought a Chaos Devastator Squad box the other day. Ive never put together a vehicle before and Ive already fucked up by putting things together in the wrong order. Any tips on dissolving super glue on models?

>>51986063
>no real benefit to alclad
>implying people don't care about surface finish

>>51992775
I think that IS Super Clean

>>51992861
Castrol Clean is Super Clean

>>51993694
What were you going for? And what are you putting on it?

>>51991187
THIN

but otherwise, it's actually pretty good. the eyes are actually painted and not spilling everywhere. I'd suggest drilling a hole in the barrel of the bolter, makes it look better

>>51994327
Just tried to make a cliff/rocky formation. I used bark from birch and pine tree because I got shitton of it lying around the lumber pile (and my shitty hometown doesnr have cork anywhere in any form)

>>51994402
Worried about it rotting at all?

hello /wip/, I'm planning to scratch build some ork lobbas, what plastic I can buy in sheets that's ideal for this?

sorry for any bad english

>>51994432
Tbh I have no idea what's going to happen to it. I dried them all by the fireplace and applied some 50/50 mixture of pva glue and water on top of the whole thing.

>>51991690

Fucking brilliant

>>51983499
Nonce means pedophile, anon.

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Lads, help. I consider myself an average painter at best but I thought I'd enter my local store's painting comp tomorrow. I don't expect to win but why not join in, right?

I'm torn between these three.

(disregard Snikrots basing and the other two not being based, I'm going to either rebase / base them, so that's not a factor)

What do you like best hate the least

Opinions, votes, suggestions please! Thanks!

>>51994571

I'm torn between these four****

>>51994476
Plsaticard sheets of different thickness, with textured sheets if possible.

>>51994571
The blightkin obviously. It's also complete.

>>51994571
I'd say 3 even though 1's pose is great. All of them are pretty damn swell though good luck Anon!!

>>51994571
I like 3 and 4 the best t b h

>>51994571
Nurgle gets my vote. Painting is very good and the base is the most interesting.

>>51983499
>>51994553
Yeah, I was gonna ask does that word have any meaning OTHER than British slang for child molester?

>>51994571
3 is neat and is probably more "competitive" but I like 2 the most

>>51994577
>>51994605
>>51994630
>>51994643
>>51994661
>>51994720

Thanks lads, 3 it is, I think the others suffered from having awful basing / no basing but I'll take blobby with me tomorrow, cheeeers!

>>51994571
2

>>51994727
let us know how it goes, friend!

>>51994571
Even though I hate everything Nurgle with a passion, I'd say him or the ork.

They have good contrasts and interesting setpieces.
The watch master and the Chaos Exalted Champion are good, no doubt, but are too much of one colour, namely red and black.

The base really helps the Nurgle dude, so I'd say him.

>>51994730
if you finish it, obv.

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I want to start conversing my own models from scratch. What are some good guides and what materials do I need?

I've done some light conversing when I was younger but nothing big.

>>51994571
>>51994605
second blightkin

>>51994855
green stuff, plasticard glue and a sharp craft knife.
let your fantasy and inspiration from looking at a shitton of stuff guide you.

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>>51994738
>>51994733
>>51994859

Thanks guys

>>51991041
Delet this!

Or post more. Your choice

>>51991187
How do you think you did?

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>>51991187

Lets talk about what you did and how you did.

>White
Bold bold choice, white is a hard colour for even experienced painters to grapple with. If you base(coat) with pure white, you can't highlight it. It's hard to shade it because it's difficult to notice or ends up looking very smudgy and dark.
>Advice
Don't start with white, try darker colours that will allow you to highlight and shade, try Blues / Reds

>Paint Thickness
We have a meme around here you may be aware of, thin your paints. The trouble is you've tried to get a consistent coat of white of your model, to not see the base, so the paint got thicker and thicker. If you REALLY want to paint white... start with a white primer, so you don't have to slop on 8 coats of it. Learn about paint thinning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EogxYu8dgzY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKwDLGlb3Bk

>shading and blending
You started to blend on the shoulders and bolt gun, great job! keep practicing. Oh boy here's that white armour again, the models legs and feet have no definition, they're just solid white, thats why you should highlight edges and shade recesses.

For your first attempt, it's not damn bad at all, but you have a long way to go.

I started this hobby in the early nineties, the internet didn't exist and there was virtually no help available. Now you have the fucking internet, thousands of youtube videos and tutorials. Watch them, learn them, love them.

https://www.youtube.com/user/GamesWorkshopWNT/search?query=paint

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Anyone knows a good tutorial to do Carcharodons tribal tatoos?

Like pic related, albeit to a smaller extent, my painting skills aren't there yet.

Someone posted a great tutorial ages ago on this very thread on how to paint Carcharodons, complete with tatoos and all, but sadly it was saved on another phone.

>>51995876
Pencil them in, then paint over the marks. Or use something like a micron pen and touch up the lines with paint.

Should I just get these for wolf guard runic armour?

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Space-Wolves-Upgrade-Set

>>51994571
2 or 3 but 3.

>>51985870
interesting, that is unexpected.
Not sure what it is then, but I agree that your Candy paint should not be doing that...

Besides the layer vs base formula thing, what's the difference between Eshin grey and Mechanicus Standard grey?

>>51992137
well post your white painted dudes and give some constructive critique in how to improve it instead of basing on a person who said that they just started

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First time painter here. Just based my marine, did I thin my paints enough?

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So im still trying to come up with a color scheme for my skavens

What do you guys think so far? What color should i paint these triangular outliners? i want to bring in some contrast but im not that good at color theory and stuff

>>51985870

Quick question - you say both were applied with the same brush, what did you clean it with, and did you make sure it was absolutely dry before using the second colour? It looks like a reaction with something it's mixed with.

>>51986391
Legs could use some bulking up imo.

>>51994855
Looks baller, nice work.

>>51997040
>>51997339
The Alclad customer support got back to my insanely fast, seems like I did get a bad batch. They are taking care of it, really cool folks :)

>>51993173
Im a third year CE major and i do not really have loads of time on my hand

If this was a walker for a hq or something of that sort i would do that, but im content with just leaving bulk models auch as this as a little over table top quality

Ill probably do a decent job on the sergeant who i have already completely magnatized since he is just one model and not just a grunt like the rest of them

Its also hard to tell but there are a lot of brusged highlights you simply cannot see because of the camera

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Behold my shitty Helbrute with his mighty base full of diarrhea and radioactive menstrual blood.

>>51997302
red is not really good for 3 colour schemes, but black is probably the best option. A fairly bright green could work as well.

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Finally done, just wanted this to be in my armies colour scheme finally, look ok? It might be thick because it was primed over but I think it looks ok, good enough for table top

>>51990183
You know nothing of my work

>>51997974
THIN

>>51998058
I sez it looked better before but that's totally tabletop standard

>>51997249
So your white needs to be built up from grey, I'd suggest a cooler grey to contrast with your warm reds and gold. In GW paints, start with celestra, go to Ulthuan, and use white only on your brightest highlights.

What you can also do is thin some of your greys down with medium to form a grey wash, and carefully use that, as it's a highly textured surface.

The gold on the dress needs better attention paid to it to actually hit all the points, and the wash I mentioned will help with contrast between the white cloth and detail.

It's quite hard to tell what's up with the reds, but it looks like you highlighted by adding white? If so, you really don't want to do that: red is highlighted and shaded with a fair amount of variation in hue instead of just value, because that way it doesn't look pink. Mix oranges into your reds to highlight them, and shade with brown or purple mixed in (I recommend purple to play nicely with the purple in her daemonette skin.)

>>51997971
>Its also hard to tell but there are a lot of brusged highlights you simply cannot see because of the camera

This is less to do with the camera and much more to do with the highlights' insufficient contrast.
Especially when just going tabletop standard like this you want to push the contrast in the highlights.
They should stand out at arm's length instead of us having to look really hard to see them when the model is about three times as tall as it really is on our computer screens.

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>>51991690

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I'm downloading the guides right now and I've watched the videos on GW's site, but I'm still not sure how to achieve the effect I want (I'm a very inexperienced painter and new to painting miniatures)

I'm building a Imperial Guard army that's based around one of my favorite books, The King in Yellow. I think it's kind of a neat idea (King in Yellow, Big E and his golden fucking everything, Chaos fucking with people's minds)

From the play within the story, you get the idea that Carcosa is a city that is very dark and spooky. From this, I want to give my army a black matte coat. After that I want to put in The Yellow Sign on armor chestplates and on the side of my tanks and etc. along with using that dark red sparingly throughout

For the vehicles, I want to draw star constellations on them with a glossier black to kind of make the stars shine and show up against the black matte coating (coming from the passage "Strange is the night where black stars rise,")

Now I live about 500km away from the nearest Games Workshop so I can't really go in and ask the people there for help. So far I got this

>Start with Chaos Black spray paint because that's the primer
>Go over the things with Abaddon Black and the yellow/gold and red I haven't chosen yet
>??????

My understanding is that I should use Nuln Oil for the black stars, but I'm not 100% sure on this.

I just need to know what to order online since I can't visit a store right now. I hope this post makes sense; I've been up for about 23 hours now.

>>51998809
You don't have to use GW paints, there are many others available, most cheaper and in a huge variety of colours.

For what you want, I'd suggest painting mostly with a very dark grey first. Painting pure black is a bad idea, as it's impossible to add shading and highlights come out very strong.

If you want glossy black stars, I'd suggest mixing some gloss varnish or medium in with a black paint, which would stand out against your dark grey and provide the effect you want.

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>>51998722
Do we have more meme miniatures?

>>51998895
Okay, cool. Thank you. What do you recommend I do for the undercoating? Is using black still fine or should I try to find a dark grey can of primer somewhere for it?

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Working on some clickers for Empire of the Dead, sorry for the shitty pictures.

>>51999212
What country do you live in? I can give you the standard recommendations (Halfords for UK, Rustoleum for US) but if it's somewhere else then I can't really give you specifics. Your primer should be covered by your basecoat unless you find a colour matched paint, like the Army Painter range. I'd recommend using a black primer and then using grey spraypraint for your basecoat if they're mostly black - but like I said, this should match a paint in case you need to do touchups. I'd suggest looking at Army Painted and maybe GW for this as they have colour matched spraycans.

>>51999101
You're a small guy

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So something just arrived and I feel I should show it off immediately, before bothering with washing the sprues and assembling.

They're kind of womanlets compared to bluefax, but I think the helmet scale works. Detail's fucking good on these. Forgot how fine resin could go.

>>51998722
oh wow, bravo

>>51999537

More realistically scaled figures that still have the oversized to fuck GW weapons look so funny.

>>51999675
Yeah, the old FW guard always looked a little goofy carrying guns the size of their entire bodies.

These have the excuse of wearing power armour, at least.

>>51998316
How about this
Ill paint my seargent rn just for you and ill post it in a couple hours

I'm thinking about painting some desert themed beast claw raiders but I'm a bit stumped on how to make the mounts really stand out. I want to utilize some high contrast to really make them pop, what do you guys suggest?

Also any conversion ideas for mourn fangs?

>>52000168
Paint the mounts like Okapi.

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>>52000221
You overvalue my painting skills by quite a bit anon! I couldn't handle those transitions or freehand, although it's a very cool idea

>>52000294
Paint them like Gila monsters.

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>>51998316
This isnt me>>51999928
Pic as proof


For one the camera makes it lighter than it actually is, drowning out the highlights, what do you think would happen if you shined a model in direct sunlight? Would you see the highlights

Also i honestly cannot be bothered to do linework, takes too long and honestly i really do not like the look of broad line highlights

>>51994476
Styrene. You should be able to get it at any hobby store that carries models. Comes in sheets, tubes, rods, box girders and I-beams, and so on. It's the go-to material for scratchbuilding.

>>51997579
Good to hear that, I was getting worried about the bottles of Candy I have sitting around.

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>>51983499
Trying a blood river base for my very wip dreadnought, thoughts?

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Here's the tit-monster I got to tide me over before 1.5. Went for a Giger-esque color scheme, though I fear it might be a touch bland. First real attempt at airbrushing, but I think it turned out pretty well.

>>52000582
anon you're supposed to paint the mini not just prime it

>>52000582
Are you taking the piss?

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>>52000771
How so? It's a WIP so it's far from done, and it's a heavy grey color scheme to look in the style of pic related.

>>52000582
You have a rather noticeable mold line right in the middle of the chest

>>52000821
you can see the hints of colour on that, though

Violet in the recesses, and more of a warm colour on the raised areas. Get yo glaze/tint game on, son.

>>52000903
Yeah, just noticed that myself actually. Admit, I got a bit hasty in getting to work on it and let a couple imperfections pass by sheer negligence. Should be an easy fix though.
>>52000918
Planning to use some transparent sprays to add some subtle coloration to the recesses next. I'm mainly using this project as an excuse to practice my airbrushing.

>>52000582
I see what you're going for, but you need to play with contrasts and sheen more if you're going for Giger, especially in a 3-D space. Look up some of the behind the scenes for Alien or his other sculptures and see some of the stuff he does to make details pop.

>>52001007
>I'm mainly using this project as an excuse to practice my airbrushing.
well, play around with it then

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Alrighty, finished my army for tomorrow. Not going to do the crackle paint for the remaining Kataphrons since I don't want to risk it not drying in time for tomorrow morning.

Really like how they turned out and changing the front plate and hip metal to white was definitely the right call, thanks for convincing me to that when I posted the original scheme.

Now to finish the remaining 5 Skitarii and the Plasma Culverins for the next tourney to bring a better list with more bodies. Because like hell am I gonna bring unpainted models.

Huge-ass image but its better than dumping 5 posts IMO.

>>51993156
Looks damn nice man!

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Long time lurker first time poster. First attempt on a IW predator. Any suggestions on making stripes easier to paint? Sorry for shitty pic

>>52001472
Measure and put down some painters tape.

>>52001472
Use painters tape and spray the stripes

>>52001492
>>52001498

Of course! Thanks. Any other pointers on painting a IW pred?

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>>51999101

>>52001542
>HENSHIN!

Where the fuck do I get a core rulebook anyway. I have one from 5th ed but some things have changed

>>52001591
There's a general with links

>>52001591
Just google 7th edition pdf

Its that fucking easy

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>>51999101
Speaking of batman minis, here's one of mine. Haven't painted since I was a young lad but tried to do my homework beforehand.

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Nearly there!
Will do swords, horns, eyes, toes and bases tomorrow. I'll leave the icon and instrument for when I get back from my holiday.

>>51997302
The fuck is this Redwall looking rat

>>52001401
Looking good, anon!

>631 KB
>Huge-ass image
You sweet summer child.

>>52001401
Nice and unique, gj

>>52001533

Not really, you seem to have it down, seconding "masking tape" / "painters tape" makes it easy mode.

>>52001674

clean, within the lines mostly, it's a good job, you'll improve a bunch with practice

>>52001934

Really Interesting Idea, simple and looks great, good job.

>>52001934
I really like the champion and one to the left of it but it feels like non uniformity and vibrance is very Tzeentchian and unlike Nurgle

>>52001941
blood bowl

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Making another Sorcerer out of spare Scarab Occult and Burning of Prospero bits. Thinking of using a Power fist as Seer's Bane and making it look like he's summoning something up. Any other ideas of how to make him look more clearly Sorcerer-ish?

>>52002184

You're still cleaning him up a well, right?

>>52002233
It's all just blue tacked on right now. No scrapping or cleaning until I know what parts I'm using

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>>52002184

>>52002184
Robes, tabards and scrolls are always a safe bet for sorcerers

Does /wip/ know how guardsmen head sizes compare with the mongoose SST miniatures?

>>52002339
they're.. close, but the helmets make it hard to judge super accurately

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>>52002060
Thanks, but I disagree. I think there is lots of variation in all aspects of chaos and diseases and ailments are often the cause of the weirdest and brightest colours in humans. That's what I'm trying to represent. Also, the swords, horns and bases do help to tie them together, see pic for completed ones.

>>52001401
hey, he's back. How does the quest for the skull go?

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My first squad of boyz ever in progress

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All done with the predator

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>>52002748
iron hazard stripes/10

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>>52002712
Pretty alright, thanks for asking.
Remembered that Playmobil was a thing and that they had skellies. Should still have a few SOMEWHERE in the attic from when I was a kid. Their heads are ~1.5cm large if I can estimate correctly from memory, which would be pretty good for what I'm using it for. Didn't have time to search for it yet, since I had to get those Kataphrons done and also couldn't keep myself from experimenting a bit on how to build the torso for my big guy.
Will check through the dozen boxes of toys next week to hopefully find it.

>>52002665
I have some SST minis I picked up second hand that were unpainted and whoever built them just glued the translucent yellow acrylic face plate directly onto the helmeted face. Thinking I would get some guardsmen head bits and convert the troopers to the open faced helmet.

>>52002825
might be easier to just paint over the visor

>>52002766
Thanks, any room for improvement?

>>52002881
Some of the textures seem a bit thick still but in terms of painting technique, I don't really see any problems.

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>>52002914
Thinning the paints is a bitch but thanks! Been working for quite a while on my IW army. Will post the full results in a couple of months. I don't hold a candle against most posters here but i think my work is improving. Kind of happy with this guy

>>52003019
Yeah, that guy looks great but the image is way too big.

You should consider getting a wet palette if you don't already use one. Can really help with thinning and pretty much automatically thins your paints a little bit by just using it. Also saves a ton of money since things aren't going to dry in 5 minutes.

>>52003056
Working with one but I need to be more patient because of the layers. Hate working on multiple ones.