WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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wip of one of my scibor minis

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WIP pre-Heresy 1k1 sons pls no bully

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>>50505870
oilymarines

i'm painting some chaos familiars to represent the warp beasts and stuff that started to manifest during the burning of prospero

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Made a start on my second custodes model. It's really hard to show how nice this gold is on a photo.

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>>50505774
Where the hell can i get those spanish Inquisition models?

Pic related is my Nurgle DP scratch build project with newly broken scythe. Still waiting on my Figma dolls from Japan before I do his arms and legs.

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>tfw you can finally make the guardsmen from the front of the old cityfight book

Awwwww yeahhhhh.

Just gotta finish building the rest of the platoon now so I can prime it tomorrow

Reposting this, Anon Grimm in Washington, I've got your stuff set aside I've just got to loot a box from work to ship it in. To make up for the slight wait is there anything in particular you need tool wise or a particular army you play?

>>50505966
Victoria Lamb. They're under a weird tab like characters or something.

>>50505900
gold that isn't nmm comes out like crap in photos, but looks amazing in person, which is a shame. it makes custodes look real boring through a lens.

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>phone camera is shit
>roomate cool as fuck professional camera doesnt have a detail/macro lenses

I just wanna share my wips!

To any Skitarii collectors:

Do you magnetize your heads on normal dudes? Magnetizing the arms on 3 of them is an obvious choice (unless using Arquebuses) but I'm not sure if magnetizing every model's arms and heads is worth doing or too big of a pain in the ass instead of just buying torso bits or another set and selling the bits.

>>50506062

Stop using a flip phone. Any smartphone newer than an iPhone 4 will have a passable megapixel camera.

>>50506062
>>roomate cool as fuck professional camera doesn't have a detail/macro lenses

How close are you two? Could get him one for christmas if you're good friends and you have the money for it.

Or just get a decent phone and don't spend 200$ on plastic figures next month.

>>50506077
I never though of that but that's a genius idea to get more mileage out of your special weapon guys. Not sure how you'd do it though.

Honestly the only special weapon I use for rangers is the sniper anyways. If I'm using the other special weapons vanguard make better delivery platforms by virtue of being cheaper and having more aggressive weapons on the meatshields.

>>50506077
>magnetizing basic troops

I've always felt this was stupid. Just buy an extra troop. The parts are small and the models are cheap so it's pointless. Having a bunch of magnetized hands jangling around is also annoying.

I would understand if it's one of those expensive 5 a box models or larger units and vehicles, but basic faggots? People magnetize space marine hands, like really, how expensive is a fucking snapfit bolter sergeant?

>>50506111
I know, magnetizing basics is a tedious fucking piece of work for often only little pay-off, though I can understand it for marines. 4 magnets on a 10-man unit doesn't take too long and you can use your bits more effectively

>>50506107
Well, magnetizing the arms might be a little fiddly, since their shoulders are that small and, most importantly, not very wide and don't have shoulder pads to glue over the magnets if you accidentally drill through. Then again, I also managed to magnetize my Tech-Priest's pistol hand without any issue and that one's not much bigger than a Skitarii shoulder.

Heads should be easy. Could just cut off the round part at an angle I like, drill a small crevice and stick the magnet in.

Heck, the only reason I really want to do this shit isn't to necessarily save a lot of money but just to not have piles of heads and arms lying around and not having to buy another full infantry box's worth of body bits to build Peltasts or Hoplites.

>>50505980
I play sisters and Imperial Guard as for tools brushes or brush on primer are always nice

>>50506327 I also completely lack templates just throwing that out there... It feels weird posting this

>>50505774
WAIT. GUYS. I'VE GOT IT.

He doesn't knife hand internally, and he doesn't knife hand externally.

He knife hands ETERNALLY.

>>50506062
>have phone
>dropped it a few times
>shattered back glass panel and lost the lens for the camera
>camera takes pictures with super blurry parts so it's basically worthless for taking WIP's

Now I just post old photos every now and then.

>tfw poorfag

>>50506432
Alright, big black dildo it is, thanks for your feedback.

>>50506561
Even though the joke was already dead, you decided to sodomise and mutilate it's mangled corpse...

So I've got a very minor-ly damaged plastic Kharn that's getting replaced. Wondering what you anons would do with the fucked up one.
I'm thinking of using the main body to get a step closer to filling out the dv chaos marines to a full squad of 10 with a bolter/chainsword combo... not sure what to do about the iconic head except take off the "ears" and put horns in their place. Thinking I could build my own pre-heresy Kharn with the arms.
Anyone got some alternative ideas? I'm kinda at a loss aside from just selling em and those mentioned above.

/wip/, i've come across kings of war undead for cheap, have you guys got any suggestions as to how to paint them?

>>50506600
OP here, I only used ol knife hands because I didn't have any of the OP images and just decided to use a pic of him for it. People seemed to like him so I figured it'd work. Wasn't trying to force a meme.

no idea who >>50506561 is

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How does this power klaw arrangement look?

>>50506613
clown makeup.
ghoulish clowns would be even scarier than regular ones.

seriously though a little more information about your planned army/theme might go a long way.

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Repoosting

anyone here having experience with Blue stuff ? i wanted to cast some bits and saw a video about blue stuff that looked really nice so im thinking of getting some.
on a related note, what epoxy/putty would you recommend for the actual casting

>>50506944
Haven't been following the past few threads, what are you making, anon? Some super Ork-Waagh!-boss?

Looks good.

>>50507301
4 terrain type stuff I recommend Das air-dry clay for slightly more detail oriented stuff I recommend milliput and finally for even better quality I recommend green stuff some people use milliput on the inside for larger pieces that use green stuff for detail

>>50507468
which miliput super fine or yellow grey ?

Botched a couple of my Chaos Warriors trying to dip them with Minwax Polyshade. At first they looked like they were made of fucking oil. Krylon Matte Finish took the gloss off, but then they looked globby and lumpy. My original paint job wasn't great, but it was miles better.

Should I stick with using a general purpose magic wash for shading, or will a proper dip like Army Painter QuickShade work much better than the Minwax?

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Working on some Malifaux stuff right now. I am a painfully amateur painter, but I do like how the inks turned our compared to the washes I normally use.

>>50507126
I disapprove of your choice to support Games-Workshop's most heinous abomination to date, but you did a good job painting that cannon, bro.

The bone tusks look fantastic, and the bronze on the cannon itself looks really nice.

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>>50506944
That looks kind of akward... what about claws from sort of in between the barrels like an acguy?

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>>50507924
Anon please that's not the worse thing games workshop had released.

>>50507924
That kit is fucking dope...of all the models to complain about....

>>50507924
Nigguh. Ever tried to put together a Jabberslythe? I have. 5 years ago. He's still incomplete in a box somewhere because fuck that model.

>>50508459
I even emailed GW about it. "Due to the number of people trying to return this, our advice is to try to fix it with Green Stuff"

> Paraphrased of course, don't have the email any more.

Green stuff would be great, if the model lined up with itself at all. when the hand meets the arm crooked, arm meets the body crooked, tail won't line up at all, and head is a mess of weird lines, shove off.

>>50507126
>>50507924
this thing was a shock becaus Ogres went from fairly tales levels of grimm mongolian man eaters to cheerily colorful WoW abominations
>>50508228
And this was a surprised because GW managed to fuck up their money printing design

They're both tremendously shit and mark low points for GW for different reasons though

Noob here - would it be feasible to file down/remove the Aquilas off of SM models to make them into CSM/Black Templars (who AFAIK don't have aquilas)?
Or would it be way too fiddly and likely to ruin the model cause of the sheer amount of them?

>>50508783
Keep them if you plan on doing BT. AFAIK they literally worship the Emperor. But, it's too fiddly for CSM. Better off "defiling' or "defacing" them with scratches or the Chaos Star.

>>50508783
>>50508839
I was in the exact same position as you with a few Marines a friend gave me. Little bit of battle damage, few X's on the wings of that eagle, and looks chaos-y enough for most people.

>>50508839
>>50508857

Thanks, won't try too hard then

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>>50508228
>pic related
What I think of every time I see those damn models

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Guys, how do you guys get out of your funks? I have absolutely no motivation to get this army done (pic related), I'm trying to get rid of my Nids and CSM, and a friend of mine wants to do a project for 30K starting in Jan. I also know I'm getting at least 2 boxes of 'Crons for Christmas to start on a Diesel-Punk themed Necron army. The problem is that I haven't picked up a brush, assembled a model, primed a model, anything, in like 2 months.

> got any tips to help a fellow anon get back in the mood to paint?

>>50508943
They always remind me of kids in big winter clothes but that's also a good comparison

>>50508980
Listen to podcasts you like. Also make it so you aren't allowed to listen to it unless you are either painting or assembling your minis.

>>50508980
I either watch painting videos, listen to lots of nice music while I paint, or just look at bunches of awesome finished models, which normally makes me want to paint again.

>>50509799
>looks it up
>all those withdrawal symptoms
ill have to pass.

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I need help with some colour choices lads.

I'm doing my Sisters of Silence with red armour and black cloak, with black loin cloth as well.

What colours should I make the : bolsters, sword blade, sword hilt, gems, topknot, animal fur on shoulder.

Also Pictured is my Ahriman progress.

>>50509950
so, blood angels sisters of silence? black bolter, silver sword blade, gold sword guard (with black main hilt) , green gems, black or blonde topknot and animal fur.

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>>50509950

I have two sets of the dark angels half of DV and I decided to convert them to space wolves tonight. Any tips so I don't fucking hate myself after? I'm using a dremel to shave all their icons off, but idk what to do with the librarian. Anyone make wolf skulls small enough for mini heads?

>>50509985
Start by thinning your paints.

I'd also suggest using a smaller brush, it looks like you're accurate enough, its just your brush size making you go over the lines.

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My brother has started an IG army, and I am wanting to get him some Death Korps models. Does anyone know where to pick them up for cheap? Currently working and going to college, so I'm a tad strapped for cash, but if there isn't place that I can get them outside of FW then I'll just get him some more normal guardsmen or something.

>>50510267

Ebay is an option

http://www.ebay.com/itm/warhammer-40k-DEATH-KORPS-OF-KRIEG-SQUAD-FIRING-/222326041956?hash=item33c3aa2d64:g:v7wAAOSwiwVWS06r

>>50510291
I was thinking someplace a bit more consistent since FW stuff isn't always on Ebay, but thank you for the help sir.

Left some green stuff in a closet for a year and like half of the yellow stuff is hard now, is there a way to fix this?

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Just got these from my LGS, but I've never used Reaper.

Are they any good? How do they compare to GW?

>>50510425
Reaper paints are generally rather nice, a little thinner by default than GW, but those few Triads I own have really good coverage.

>>50510482
Cool.

The owner gave them to me for $20, which is a fraction of what gw paints would cost, so if they're good, then that's even better.

Dumfries & Galloway anon your ss stuff is on its way!

>>50508980
>No motivation to paint a bronze army like the minotaurs

Nigger what? It's one of the easiest army to do. It's the same colour everywhere!

How do I get the metallic red color of Thousand Sons? Do I just mix silver and red? Do I base the whole model gun metal and paint red over it?

>>50510828
Forgeworld used Tamiya Clear red over a metallic base for their scheme. It's nearly impossible to do without an airbrush though. That clear stuff does not like being painted on larger surfaces.

>>50510853

And I have neither of it anyway. What's a good plan B?

Honestly, it might not matter at this point. Legion hopping might be the better choice.

>>50510862
the new GW tints should be perfect for 1ksons. Only problem is I don't think they sell them individually.

>>50510904

Tints? Huh. Never heard of them. What are they? How are they different than say a wash?

>>50510361
Try the chinamen. I don't have the flyers but I'm sure some anon will share them. Failing that just go back through the other threads.

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The paint stripping guide in the OP says Castrol Super Clean is the best option for removing paint. Just to be sure before I try it, will CSC remove spray paint primer/residue from Lego (ABS plastic) without harming the plastic? Pic related is what I'm trying to strip. The Lego pieces were soaked in Simple Green, which took off the paint, but not the residue.

>>50510930

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QksrFJyT5A4

Saint Duncan makes them look pretty useful

>>50511001
Test it out somewhere that it won't be visible if it does.

That residue may be due to the paint permanently affecting the surface of the lego, and possibly diffusing a bit into it as well. If that's the case, you're not undoing it.

>>50510930
you mix them into a pot of metallic paint and it changes the colour while keeping it metallic

>>50511078

Fuck, that sounds awesome.

>>50511049
>That residue may be due to the paint permanently affecting the surface of the lego
I really hope not, as that would suck, but I'll give the Castrol Super Clean a try. I'll do a test to run with a common, easily replaceable piece in case it ruins the plastic.

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first krieg, sorry the lighting its absolute shit (low cost lightbulbs+winter cloudy day)

I tried to make it look like quite rough and dirty but i dont know if it came out good.
>>50510267
if you are american: Ebay
If you are not: chinaman or local used warhammer, even if people hardly sells those bastards

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Doing a squad of 10 13th company Grey Slayers for my SW army.
So just some kitbash with Chaos parts.
(Here's the fluff for those who don't know it http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/13th_Great_Company#Organization )

Going to try and do their Rhino the same to match, so a few panels painted in Traitor Legion colours.

I was thinking one top hatch door, one side hatch door and maybe a panel on the front to show as well as replacing damaged power armor parts with scaveneged parts from the CSM they fell, they also have had to do the same with their Rhino.
I don't want to overdo it so it won't look like a clown car.
Any suggestions of which legion part to use where are welcome.
I'm thinking Alpha, IW and BL?

Will be a unit I keep in reserve if I roll Outflank on units of Grey Hunters so show them randomly turning up, maybe being dumped out of the warp.

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My loyal guardsman template. Do you think guard armor need highlights? Do you think it need anything more to do? (Base is not final, just mini)

>>50511356

First of all I can barely see anything, it's a terrible picture. - It's absurdly huge and dark.

I really like the camo.
You don't have to highlight anything really it just makes the model look less flat, if you could follow Duncan's advice about edge highlight you could probably do a very fine highlight on the weapon but it's a good effort.

>>50507126
How did you get that bronze for the cannon? It looks gorgeous.

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>>50511422
Yeah I can't find good light to do better photo. I will see how highlighting works here

Just thought I'd introduce everyone to the magnificence of Ian Wyatt and his Orks.

https://www.youtube.com/user/wazzoo2000/videos

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How should I sex up my bases chaps?

Basically sand, painted Scorched Earth and static grass.

Should I drybrush the exposed earth? Some larger grey stones?

I have bought some Tufts too, the straw ones seemed to yellow but the "meadow" ones I've got might not provide enough contrast.

>>50510828
Red paint and gold.

either mix them together. or paint it gold, then wash red twice.

>>50510828
https://youtu.be/3rNW6GPvC_8

>>50511859
>Should I drybrush the exposed earth?

Absolutely, and I'd avoid large stone, go small if anything. A slight drybrush will make everything less two tone and I'd argue that nothing much else is needed.

>>50506327
>>50506432
Alright cool I can work with these, hope you enjoy it. I wonder if I'll be able to pick out your guard once the package arrives and I start to recognize your workbench.

>>50511429
Warplock bronze- agrax - brass scorpion and some rune fang here and there.
Warplock bronze is some magic fucking paint man, even with just a basecoat it looks shiny and metally and done.
>>50507924
I was at my store, I looked at the model on the shelf and said
"This is fucking retarded"
So I bought it.

So after painting my marines, I want to apply some of those decals. How do I go about doing this?

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My most recent conversion, old pic because i fixed some of the retarded highlights.

A shipment to Germany is on its way. Enjoy Anon!

>>50511974
>Get a breakfast bowl with warm water.
>Get your decal sheet and cut out the decal you want to apply with a sharp knife
>Try to be as neat as possible, but don't damage the decal
>Drop the cut out decal into your water bowl
>Wait for a minute
>take it out with tweezers
>the Decal itself should be loose from its background paper now
>use a brush and carefully push it from the paper background onto your miniature
>use the brush to get it into the right position
>use brush, paper towel or q-tip to carefully remove any excess water from the mini
>wait for it to dry


Some protipps:
Brush on some satin or better gloss varnish at the position where your decal is supposed to go before doing all the stuff above and let it dry

This creates a very smooth surface so the decal will stick better

After you applied your decal and its dried, brush on a coat of "decal fixer" (for example by vallejo, but there are other brands as well). This helps to reduce the shine of the decal itself and also makes it somewhat "melt" to the mini

After that is also dry apply a coat of matte varnish to remove the shine from the gloss varnish from earlier. Not necessary if you spray matte varnish over the whole mini anyway but if you want to continue painting the decal area (adding some chipping for example) then thats probably a good idea.

>>50512031
You forgot to apply a bit of water to the part of the model you're applying the transfer to. It gives you a bit of work time.

>>50512044
True. Brushing a bit of water onto the "decal-area" helps to slide it around for a bit to get it into position.

Fort Worth anon your (not so)Secret Santa is on its way

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My ogr pirate still need to do highlights and stuff

>>50512044
>>50512031
Thanks anon, hope this turns out well!

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>>50511859
>>50511930

Not completely sold on the Tufts, but I'm sick of looking at these two so that'll do

>>50511265
IW and BL would be the least clown car. I'd go with one or both of those. Just my $.02.

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>>50505774
Finished my first Knight base.

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>>50512282
From behind.

>>50512282
Any had any experience regarding Chinaman Knights?

>>50512306
Nope, both of mine are official GW. I saw a video of a recasted Knight, and it seemed pretty good but the details were a lot less sharp.

>>50511964
Cheers mate, I was looking for a nice way to make bronze armour for a guard army I'm planning, and that's the nicest result I've seen in a while.

>>50512350

not him but warlock bronze is fucking fantastic for bronze if you use it over black or a dark colour. Just started doing it this weekend and I've seen a noticeable improvement on my bronze guns.

What material are Malifaux minis usually made from? Resin? Metal?

>>50512526
yes

On the way, Las Veganon.

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T-Texas anon, your parcel is on its w-way... the postage cost tho... oh god...

Did anyone happen to save the Horus Heresy Mrk 4 marines (painted Red) that were really nicely painted, crisp highlights pictures?

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still some work to do, but it's getting pretty spooky

>>50512147
du yu fier deff, gabn' jagg sparro?

>>50512282
>>50512294
I propose to you, that the base might be too bright. Have you considered the use of pigments to make the base darker and more authentic? (Less cartoony, as i would call it)

Question, can you spray paint the plastic cockpit windows on games workshop miniatures and have them look good without the clear plastic?

Kingsport, TN anon: I'm still waiting on mail order to hit me (it's due Wed). I'll be shipping your stuff soon after.

>>50513132
u will always membur dis day as da day ya almost got eatun by gabn' jagg sparro so git in mi bellee !

I'm tempted by the GW watchblade taskforce but to convert them into "fancy" marines, sternguard veterans and was wondering if any of you guys had any idea/experience if it's a good idea.

>>50513249
fuggGg :-DDDD

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Ok anons i might have brain damage but:
>If i'm looking for a scheme that must have the tourny standard of 3 colours
>I've got Copper/Screaming Bell for metals
>I've got Red for armour
>And i'm attempting to use Yellow instead of Green for my Gauss
Does this scheme "work" on paper according to colour theory - i'm just totally confused when i hear that "X, Y and Z doesn't work due to ..."

Should i just stay with green gauss or not?

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Just the edge highlight and wash tidyup to go.

It's a bit messy and scrappy. This was a Rhino I got for £5 that I had to strip 5 layers of paint from.

>>50513697
what's with the patchwork parts. This for old-ish school 13th company?

>>50513709
Yes indeed, see >>50511265

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While my bridge scenery drys from spraying I started planning a new scenery piece.

This looking alright? Not too much, I'll lay day some thin cork on the bare bits for the base, it aint stuck down yet so I can move stuff about freely.

>>50513726
oh, hey, I totally missed that

Yeah, it looks pretty good considering the rough base. Not too keen on the metallic door, but it's a rhino so whatever.

>>50513697
Nice idea. But wouldn't it be somewhat reasonable that they would try to cross out that chaos eye on the top hatch with thick red lines or something?

>>50513750
There are loads of silver scratch marks over it like they tried to grind it off, doesn't come out too well in photo. Runes on the other door will hopefully ward away any Chaos.

But yeah, I could add something sublte to break up the gold arrows more.

>>50513772
Oh ok. I didn't noticed that the blue runes are space wolf runes.

Does anybody has detailed pictures of the Blood Bowl 2 Skaven stadium? I want my skaven team bases to be different from the humans and the orcs, and I'm not a fan of the black earth base GW gave them

Also, why is nobody posting WIP from their BB miniatures? I tought wip threads would be filled with Blood Bowl figures

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>>50510267
>cheap
>death korps

either pay up or by knockoffs from china on ebay

>>50513996
Everything is cheap in China.

>>50513153
I think it's mostly the picture and lighting, it's actually pretty dark. The dirt/mud is painted with P3 Umbral Umber (Rhinox Hide, roughly).

I might give the steels a wash of Agrax Earthshade to darken and dirty them a little bit more, though. They've only been washed with Nuln Oil thus far.

>>50513684
copper and red both are pretty close together.
Green is a complementary color to red, i.e. 'opposite' on the color wheel. Big color contrast.
Yellow is another primary color, so no problem. If you got the copper in there, it's kind of orangy so it should harmoize well with the rest of your colors.

Your question basically boils down to having a color contrast or a harmonizing scheme that stays in the warm color ranges. Both will work on paper. Which do you prefer?

>>50513745
>This looking alright?
What is it? An altar? Or a place to sacrifice?
If it's the first I'd think about adding steps or something like that to the top, if it's the latter I'd scatter trophies and body parts about.

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Anyone know where I could buy small crystal bits, about the size for a staff-top on a warhammer character?

Something like in this picture, except I need 20+ of them.

>>50512057
The end of Duncan's hot to paint an Imperial Knight on youtube has a nice section on decals.

>>50514889
Shouldn't be to hard to make them yourself from sprues.

>>50514681
I honestly don't know
On one hand, yellow gauss would be pretty unique and stand out - not to mention that i've fluffed my Necrons to be from a very hot/desert-y planet
However green seems to be the colour of what Gauss really is in 40k

Assuming i did any airbrush effects, like glowing eyes/weapons/orbs, i don't know what would look better

Anyone know where I can buy a good alternative ork warboss model?

>>50512526
Hard plastic

The old ones that are no longer sold are all metal with a couple of resin ones (Storm for example was done with resin). And a couple of their promo alt figures were done with PVC (Aionus, Luther the Pascha Hare).

what do you guys think about washing the dryads (with dryad bark paint) with the bieltan green wash?

>>50515094
Kromlech

>>50513020
what model is this?

>>50515102
Thanks Anon.

>>50513684
red and green should never be seen

>>50515113
I said good, Anon. Not something that looks like it was sculpted by a toddler with ADHD.

>>50514712
It'll be a shrine, was planning to scattering skulls and bits of bone around. Its hard to tell in the photo but there are three levels on it. The ledges are big enough so models can be placed and moved freely around.

>>50514889
You could buy some beads.

>>50515093
You should paint a Warrior with each color and see which version you prefer.

>>50515094
I think Raging Heroes had one that was pretty decent.
You could have a look at Warmachine Trollbloods or something like that with a headswap too though.

>>50515094
Have you checked Kromlech and Wargame exclusive?

>>50515094
maxmini might have one you'lll like

>>50515233
Yeah i'm going to, i've still got to choose copper or bronze for the metallics

>>50513132
>>50513249
>>50512147
Fukkin kek

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Right, bought my paints for my Xana II army today, going to test them out on some 40k Mechanicus soon.
How would you go about making a Castellax Darkfire Cannon from one with a Multi-melta mounted instead? Pic Related. I was considering grabbing some Dark Lances and mounting those instead of the melta barrel, it's pretty much the same weapon.

>>50511993
Uhh uhhh maybe its me :ooo

>>50515531
nope sorry we spoke to the post office and all you're getting for christmas is broken pasta. Sorry

>>50515547
Hey at least something to eat so i can invest the money i save in plastic crack

>>50515421
I was thinking about using Brightlances, but Eldar weapons don't really have the same design as Imperial weapons do. I saw someone making proton thrusters (which are in the same family of weapons as Darkfire cannons) by putting the end of a lascutter on a Lightning gun. It might be possible to put the lascutter bit on an Eldar weapon.

>>50515607
That might work, certainly looks nice. Depends on how accurate you want it to be, but I would think mounting the "barrel" of the dark lance on the Meltagun body and then swapping the tip for the Lascutter front part. My army is Xana anyway, they can look a little different. I would need to ebay up some lascutters, but thats no big deal.
I could make one of those Photon Thrusters for Scoria as well.

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Anyone got the recipe for Louise Sugdens orcs? Thinking bout getting some ironjawz and want to paint them in that style

>>50515910
Vallejo's fluorescent paints will be your bread and butter.

>>50505774
I want to paint my Guardsmen with black clothing and yellow armor, but I'm worried people will think it's a Chaos army with the whole Iron Warriors thing being black and yellow.

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>>50516090
Nah, IW are black and yellow hazard stripes. Go nuts, IW are gunmetal with stripes. not black and yellow on everything.

>>50516090
I would rather be concerned about people making jokes about either bees or imperial fists.

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First off, my Spite Revenants.
Shitty picture, I know, but best I can do.

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>>50516213
And the first one of my converted Sisters of the Thorn. Probably not gonna make more than ten of these.

>>50516254
Looks cool, but aren't you gonna do anything about the foot board thingies?

>>50516281
I was thinking of placing the throwing spears there, because getting rid of them seems too much of a hassle.
or paint them shiny to make them look like enchanted armor or simply for decoration purposes...

>>50515966
meme

>>50516387
Why is that a meme? Those paints were explicitly stated to have been used to get the super bright trippy colors.

>>50513684
It does if you want your army to be McDonalds themed.

>>50516402
not that anon, but I recalled seeing her post nothing but GW pots in the order she'd used them in, explaining how she'd done it.

I didn't save it myself, since I'm happy with the green skintones I can do - and because I'm generally a filthy heretic - but I'm certain someone's saved it.

>>50516510
I must of been thinking of the Tzeentch Daemons then

>>50516510
Anon's right. It was GW paint only.

She's just very talented I'm afraid. The magic doesn't come from the paints.

>>50516360
Convert the whole things to be spear-quivers. Use the bits that are there to make a steel bottom for a "bag" of sorts to hold a bunch of spears.

Not a bad idea.

>>50515910
>>50516510
>>50516531
I have the image saved, boyz

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>>50516561
Fucking hell, here it is

>>50516537
Actually...yeah.
Some green stuff to make the bag, then cut a spear in half so I can have some stick out with either the pointy or the rear end and make it overall look like they got more spears tucked away.

I'll see to it once I've got the other four ladies converted to that point.

>>50510904
spiritstone red.

>>50516573
Nice. Thanks

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>>50516531
Some colors were done with fluorescent paints though, just not the skin tone for the Orks.

>>50516200
Well I wanted to call them the Yellow Jackets, so being compared to bees is welcome. We can further make jokes about them buzzing as a warchant. Imperial Fist Guard or Imperial Guard Fist also sounds funny and fun.

>>50513745
Looks good my dude, but are you sure you don't want the altar to be a bit higher?

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>>50516573
>Naruto versus sasuke

>>50516926
Now now anon, don't judge. We all had that moment in our life where we all were happy when Hinata finally declared her love.

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getting these bitches ready lot of work to do still

>>50516926
trust me, this isn't the worst thing on his bar

>>50517088
>>50516926
I personally think it's really cute. We all have our silly things we do and like that we don't want anyone to see and when it's subtlety left it, it's cute. You can totally imagine anon getting all pumped up watching those vids. I know that's how I am with certain songs, I get pumped up day dreaming about my own music videos for said song.

>>50516573

That was me she was responding to, I asked her about the original Savage Orcs for a Frost Grave warband that never happened because my group dropped it like a hot fucking potato after I'd spent like €150 on it.

Thanks guys.

>>50517164
>>50516926

no bully, delet this.

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>>50516926
>Implying that my screenshot

>>50517088
>>50517164
>>50517165
>>50517259
>>50517581
>Finish my Dreadnought and come back to this
What the fuck guys, why is my thread doing Iron man numbers
Naruto has too many fillers and too many episodes where nothing actually happens to be good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50XvThD2nFk

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LURKERS

POST

CURRENT

PROJECT

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>>50517931
Building the second of my new Sydonian Dragoons. When he's done, going to paint my Rangers and then him in my new Xana II colour scheme I am practising for 30k, I asked about it on here yesterday.
Apologies for the shitty picture and/or possibly assembly techniques, quite new to models.

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>>50517931
sorry for the shitty pic

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>>50517931
Guild Hounds right now. Decoded to go with a darker color scheme, with the padding inked until it turns black.

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>>50515114
a limited edition lich I got from Coolminiornot like six or seven years ago

>>50507744
Brush it on instead of dipping and soak up the excess that pools with make up applicators. I've used Minwax to great effect before so its more likely your technique. Dipping is easy, but it does require some effort to get it looking good.

>>50518008
No worries friend, the picture is quite good. Keep it up!
>>50518065
Did you thin your shades? The model looks a little dark in a grimey, visually unclear sense. Good work on the eye!
>>50518079
Might want to get an overhead light on the model next time you shoot it, we can't really make out what it looks like.

>>50518335
Yeah, I plan on getting a better lamp

>>50518335
No, i didn't thin the shades. Nuln oil (and others) straight out of the pot.

Still need to touch up some parts of the mini. 3rd eye on his forehead looks like shit atm.

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Homemade Skyshield Landing Pad update. Added chest high walls and grating for some texture. Next up is filling in cracks and spaces.

Glendale anon, your package should have arrived today. Check your mail.

>>50518065
>cropped and resized
>shitty pic

Already better than 99% of the retards posting upside down 10000x8000 15MB pngs. The best ones are the idiots who manage to make a JPEG go over 4MB. How does that even happen?

>>50518412
>How does that even happen?
Modern phone cameras.

>>50505774
As you get better at painting what do you do with the models you painted when you were new to painting? Do you strip the paint off and do it again or what? How do you get the paint off of plastic models without ruining the plastic? Mean green? Is it the same for pewter?

>>50518433
I keep all of my previously painted models as-is as a constant reminder of where I started. They may not be perfect, but they're mine. And that's what matters.

Also simple green works for plastic and pewter, but if you really wanna go overkill on the pewter, you can use engine degreaser.

>>50518359
You might want to look into LED strips attached to a swiveling arm. It may not necessarily be better than a standard arm, but it's more customizable, which you might prefer.
>>50518376
You should add some water or medium to thin the shades, it makes it easier to prevent pooling and a grime-y look.
>>50518433
Yes, i do. There are many recommendations for stripping tools. I use a ethanol bath and a big, rough brush.

>>50506062

Don't need a macro for mini photography though. Or he just has primes with weird focal lengths? I've taken pretty good mini pics even with kit lenses

>>50518448
>>50518459
>There are many recommendations for stripping tools.
Is there some wiki page with the recommendations or did I miss something in the OP?

>>50518459
>>50518359
As in, buying LED strips individually and then a fitting arm individually, and combining the two by yourself.

>>50518433

I'm not a good painter but I'm one of those painters who people go "wow that's your first model?" so my original models have paint jobs thin enough to just paint over them with touch ups.

You can strip with rubbing alcohol in a few minutes or if you want a safe method use degreasers and floor soap to soak them and vigorously scrub.

Pewter can be stripped with just about anything safely, short of metal etching acids. If you only have metal models you can dunk them in nearly anything without harming the model. Rubbing alcohol, turpentine, cleaning soap, white spirits, acetone, etc. don't try this with plastic or resin models though

Some harsh chemicals can quickly strip resin and plastic but if left in too long will begin eating away and softening the model. Especially resin. Plastic is a bit more durable and metal is nearly indestructible

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>>50516573
>burczymiwbrzuchu:

Hello fellow Pole.

>>50518486
No, i meant as in there are many methods, sorry if what i wrote was confusing.

>>50518514
looks great

>>50517165
dunno, i mostly leave random shit for fun of it to fuck with other people

>>50518514
Very nice and visually clean. The pose is great and active, you might want to add a purity seal swinging in the wind on the Storm Bolter to give extra emphasis to the climates.
I also notice that the base has some gaps. You could use some watered-down PVA glue and a sprinkling of sand to make a smooth transition. Also, i'd recomemend that you got your hands on some pigment to enrichen the base.

Great paintjob.

>>50518501
You're fine man.

>>50518488
Is simple green one of the safer methods? What would you say is one of he safest methods?

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>>50518514
>that old-school paintob
Pretty cool, it's giving me that 3rd edition vibe-
>that mold line on the stormbolter and the undrilled barrel

OH COME ONE ANON

>>50518514
Do you use any kind of sealant to keep the paint from getting stripped by the oils on people's hands?

Very good paint job.

>>50518576
*come on

>>50518536
>>50518563
Thank you Anons

>>50518576
Heh, my bad :P

>>50518583
Nope, I don't use sealant.

>>50518609
Do you even have any problems with paint coming off during play?

>>50518652
If YOU do, you should get a protective layer of dull varnish.

>>50518571

Yes simple green is safe. So is any similar liquid like pine sol. However you trade speed for safety. Simple green require 24 hours or even a week of soaking and you will need to scrub your ass off to remove the paint. However it's safe enough to soak for months. Certain primers and thick paint jobs may not even come off.

I recommend a 5-10 minute rubbing alcohol bath. Acrylics slide right off and miniatures don't start taking damage until 30 minutes to an hour. I accidentally left a Forge World mini in isopropyl for 1 hour and the result was that it felt ever so slightly rubbery and took a few weeks to harden back up. I bet if I soaked the resin for too long it would eventually get gummy or even melted. Plastics should be safer and metal won't melt at all in alcohol.

I've had models primed in things like non-model spray primer that just won't come off at all in Simple Green. Whereas my own thinned acrylic paint and primer will come off most of the model.

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>Realize after a bunch of annoying, unclear, bothersome research that Testors dullcote is the way to go for spray varnish
>It's not being sold in my country

>>50518963
The Army Painter matte spray isn't a half bad option.

>>50518963

Army painters anti shine is almost as good and much cheaper. Second best spray matte

There's a comparison between the two on YouTube to see the the nearly identical results. I recommend AP if you're not gonna use testors

>>50518963
There's this crazy thing called "the internet" that allows you to buy things from around the world and have them shipped directly to your door.

That is assuming you don't live in some sort of third-world situation where there are death squads intercepting the mailman and killing him so they can sell the packages for AK-47s.

>>50518396
lookin good sky pad anon, I'll be waiting to see it finished.

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>>50512753
I feel you Anon, dropped mine in the mail yesterday, was 3x as much as what was in the package haha
>>50517931
My current wip, trying to break it up a bit by making the armor look like plates of bone trimmed with metal. I'd say I'm about half way done, might repaint the hair to make it darker, still haven't decided.

>>50519070
WHO TOLD AMERICANSKI ABOUT COMRADE HIT SQUAD?

>>50516926
>>50517088
Naruto officially killed my love for anime. I Haven't watched any in over 2 years because of it.

>>50515910
from the looks of that picture, hours of dedication and raw talent.

>>50519011
>>50519020
Alright, thanks
>>50519070
Shipping would cost me a fair bit.

The Lake Town terrain looks rad as fuck. And pretty decently prized too. If you're not into LOTR, doesn't really matter, it can be used in other fantasy games without modifications

>>50519070
True but its very often the shipping costs that make importing small/cheap items completely unattractive.

If i have to pay $20+ for a $5 item then thats a big no no for me.

>>50519212
> it can be used in other fantasy games without modifications

Careful Anon.

Check the 4th or 5th pic on their store page where they have placed the 2 minis right next to the building. See how small the footbridge and the doors are compared to them?
And then keep in mind that these are LotR minis, which are quite a bit smaller than your regular Warhammer Fantasy mini, and alot smaller than your oversized AoS muscle monsters.

Can anyone recommend a battle-mat to someone living in Sweden? Preferably of a city ruin.

Are the shipping costs big in US when you send from one state to another? Does it vary? Like cheaper to send from adjacent state to another?

Or are the prices fixed? I'm just wondering that if there's a secret santa next year, would make sense to have Europeans send their packages to another Europeans and same thing with Americans. Or does it ruin the fun of the randomness?

>>50518682
Thanks for the tip.

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>>50519253
It's fine for 28mm fantasy. Age of scale creep isn't 28mm fantasy.

>>50519076
Thanks. Lots of work still to do, but I'd say it's coming along well so far.

>>50519253

FB and AOS are high fantasy

>>50519408
Shipping in the US is either fixed price or varies by weight, depending on what type of shipping you use.

>>50519616
That is certainly true, but he is referring to scale. IE LotR figures don't look too out of place next to many 25mm lines, while WHFB and AoS figures are bigger on average.

>>50519525
My point is that the buildings look almost a little to small right next to the LotR minis. And Warhammer stuff (and lots of other popular fantasy minis, Frostgrave stuff for example, too) usually is bigger which in turn will make the buildings look even smaller.

The kit itself is really cool though, i just wish they would have made it a few millimeters bigger in all directions.

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Don't talk to me, my son or our attached mob of choppa boyz ever again.

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>>50519673
>My point is that the buildings look almost a little to small right next to the LotR minis
They look small because people don't normally have giant discs glued to their feet.

>>50519740
Exactly, but for gaming scenery you have to consider this to make it look good/right.

These are not scale miniatures for dioramas after all. Its supposed to be gaming stuff, so bases are always a thing to be considered here.

>>50519764
But even with their bases, warhammer/forstgrave/generic28mmhuman miniatures will be roughly as large as the doors.

Which is the perfect size. Wargaming cities have to be smaller than real cities for the sake of being playable on a table.

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C&C? I still need to:
-clean up lines where the white went over
-add in energy colours
-find a gunmetal black or something for the main body of the staff

>>50519151

If you do buy Testors and it has high shipping, buy multiple cans. Testor cans are extremely small despite how expensive they are, so you might as well save on shipping by buying 2-3 or more cans at a time. You'll definitely need more than one can.

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My first mini came out... Not that great, but better than I expected. I have shakey hands so I'm having a hell of a time. I have 6 paints, all Vallejo; white, grey, black, yellow, red, and dark flesh. I feel like I missed some stuff along the way. How do they get the skin like it looks on the box? Also the face isn't painted because I'm waiting until I possibly get better or something. Criticism is appreciated, I know it's not very good. I feel like my brush is too big, even though it's the smallest I could find at Hobby Lobby.

>>50519989
also, I've been using P3 Carnal Pink for my energy colour. Do you guys think it would be best to stick with it, or should I change to a different colour? People I know are pretty split between them, and while I like it the sheer number of people who are saying it's bad are making me think that maybe there's a better colour to use.

>>50520127
Do you have any washes?
If not, get at least a brown one.
If you want to stick with Vallejo: "Umber Wash". (thats dark brown and it can be applied for the whole mini if needed)
If you can afford more than one, get Sepia and Flesh was as well. Maybe a Black one too.

These will help you alot if you are just starting out.

For the whole basics, i recommend to watch some youtube videos like these:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

>>50519689
I love the gargantuan sqiggoth

>>50520266
No, I don't have any currently. I'll order some online. I can use them on that mini still right? And thanks for the video, I appreciate it.

Anyone have cool models, conversions or something from any company that make interesting Tzeentch Possessed?

>>50520127
To help with shaky hands, find something to rest your wrists on while painting. I use a box that sits on my lap, helps to bring the model closer to my face and gives me a stable platform to work from. Your collection of paints will come with time, for now experiment with mixing paints. Take your dark flesh color and add some white to it, just put a drop of each paint about an inch away from each other, take your brush and pull a little bit of paint from each drop to get the color in between. Thinning your paint can be tricky, to make sure it doesn't run all over the model(Painting with a loaded brush), unload some of the paint onto a paper towel, just dab it quick before you touch brush to model. As for brush size, a #2 should be your work horse, anything smaller should be for finer detail work like eye balls, etc. Its looking good though, the main thing about this hobby is practice. You'll find out the best way for you to do things as you get more comfortable.

>>50520355
Its a whole playlist.. or at least i wanted to link one.

Yes, the washes can be applied still.

Usually this is the process:

>Primer
>Base color (you are at this step)
>Wash(es)
>re-establishing the base color
>highlights

A wash is a heavily diluted paint, usually in a darker tone than the paint you are applying it on. (Like a black for a dark grey gun, or a light brown/sepia for your yellow fatigues or a dark red for the face.. or, if you want, just brown as a universal color)
Being diluted it will flow nicely into all the recesses of the miniature and there it will create a nice 3d-effect. As a side effect it will darken down the colors a bit, thats why after the wash you have to repaint the main parts of the mini, but leaving out the lowest areas and folds to be darker than the rest.

Sorry for explaining it that crappy, it should be pretty easy to understand from the "Inks & Washes" Video from that playlist i linked you.

>>50520415
I understand, thanks. I'm in mobile so I can't watch those til I'm home but I definitely will. Wish a store near me sold washes, but Hobby Lobby only had the normal paints.
>>50520396
Alright thanks, I was planning on using white in the flesh paint but I think I forgot.

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Tried to make a beefier Wolf Lord, how'd I do?

>>50520705
i like it although the thing on top of the helmet is a little off, if you ask me.

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>>50517931
blood bowl team, got the paint scheme all figured out and now its time for the joy of batch painting

There an easy way or a place to buy pseduo T-Son crests?

I know some stores make roman crests, anything that resembles something egyptian?

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can anyone inform me on what chapter these are from? thanks in advance

Good glue for plastic 28mms?

>>50519070
shipping pressurized containers can be an issue depending on where you are though.

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>>50520908

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R8 my wood elves

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>>50521051
Where does one find this?
Will pic related do in a pinch?

>>50521201
No. Don't use gel glues in general and don't use cyanoacrylate glues for plastics, use the extremely thin glues labeled as plastic cement or polystyrene cement. They usually come with a thin, metal, needle-like applicator or a brush, they're available from literally any hobby store or model shop.

>>50520908
>>50519989 anon here, I've seen someone here going on about how bad it is, but I stand by Gorilla Glue. I bought an army used and had to reglue most of it, and I enjoy it to the point that I've bought a surplus because it was on sale.

>>50521201

Loctite gel squeeze control is better than Revell plastic glue, because it's not plastic glue.

Plastic glue is for scrubs. Have fun not having any glue when you have resin or metal parts, unless you stay a plastic babby your whole life.

>>50521173
I like your shading, what are you gonna do with the sword hilt of the lady elf?

>>50521305
>implying cyanoacrylate glues can't have bonds stronger than the plastic models themselves
>implying plastic glue is the only glue one should use
>implying gel control cyanos aren't superior to watery runny shit that drips everywhere
>implying you can't just use a tiny drop of gel on a joint or fill thick gaps with cyano

Learn to glue.

>>50521324
Ty dood,I'm probably gonna go with red leather and brass for the hilt :) the bows are gonna be smoke I think

>>50521305
>Don't use gel glues in general
I can't agree with that. Gels require more careful application, but that's about the only downside.

>>50521387
The glue can clog and the lifespan of the glue's bond strength is fairly short, about 6-12 months, but yeah gels are great. Only newbies swear by plastic glue all the time. Only good use for plastic glue is vehicle hulls imo

>>50521432
Shelf lifespan*

>>50521333
This.

File: WP_20161201_16_51_59_Rich.jpg (4MB, 5344x3008px) Image search: [Google]

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Wip what is the most cinematic looking pic you've ever taken?
Pic related is mine from a 2000pt game.

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>>50516529
>I must of been thinking of the Tzeentch Daemons then

Louise *did* leave us with that, and *those* were *not* all done with GW paints. However, I seem to recall she also later said that she changed the way she'd been doing them since that picture was taken.

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>tfw watched Duncan for the first time
>tfw two one minute videos on painting night lords changed my life

>>50520890
The Imperial Cucks

>>50521906
Don't touch my husbando

>>50521902
>Flames have brighter colors higher up
So close

>>50513745
Just because I have a couple similar bits I got from the junker at my LGS, what are these pieces from, assuming it's the same set? Or at least the skull braziers.

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>>50521898
I've posted this a bunch but I'm starting to hate it because the chimera is painted now

>>50517931
Look, I can't go posting shit for my tabletop game this early, that's like giving your patants away for free for people to profit from.

>>50520705
Studded pauldron is traditionally the left shoulder, and that roman head plumage is rather out of place for vikings.

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Tonight's stopping point with some added background contrast- the suit itself is unedited. I'm almost done and I'm pretty proud, honestly.

>>50522128
Looks nice. I'm not a big 40k guy are those Vostroyans or Valhallans or something?

>>50522351
Valhallans.

>>50522351
Vostroyans are space cossacks
Valhallans are space soviets

>>50520705
I like em, the helm could use a bit of wolfin up if anything but it's not the biggest deal since I'm guessing he is earlier timeline leaning.

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Blimey guv, I dunno what I'm lookin' at, but on me mums grave, the commissar aint gonna like it none.

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>>50517931
Fuck this model goddamn this was a fucking pain to build and shit snapped off fuck everything

>>50522765
yup looks like a nightmare

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>>50517931
Scratch built paper chimera proxy for some PDF/armed police/undercover inquisition thing.

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>>50519078
The finished model for anyone who cares. Criticisms I have of the model and will probably change at a later date, the hair needs to be a darker shade of gray to make the white pop, should have highlighted the leather bits on her legs more, the bone armor turned out ok I guess, I really need to learn NMM. Other then that pretty happy with it

TFW having to wait til January before converting my Valkyr into Sisters just in case the rumor of plastics is true.

I either end up with sadness and converted sisters, or happyness with plastic sisters and heavyarmored gals for my inquisitor to use.

>>50521318
>implying you can only have one bottle of glue at any given time
>implying you shouldn't use the right tool for each material

You're one to talk about babies.

>>50523424
I agree on the hair, true on the leather but that might be accomplishable with just a white/beige-heavy wash, the bone armour I honestly thought was just meant to be fantasy "it's not coloured like metal but it's just as strong" armour

>>50523424
I think the hair is fine, but it could stand to get some 'shiny' highlights with pure white.
That way you'll get a bit more contrast there and the shapes of the sculpt in that area will read better too.

>>50523471
>>50523518
Thanks guys, this was mostly just a fun little model to get me back in the mood after a hiatus. Learned some stuff for sure, onto the next one!

>>50523463
>implying you need plastic glue when you can just use super glue for everything
>implying plastic glue is "the right tool" for plastics when super glue has multiple advantages over it

You can paintbrush your basecoats on even if you have an airbrush, but why the fuck would you.

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Today's progress. Got around 10 guys all done up like pic related. I missed a few mold lines but at least I got the bolters drilled this time around.

How's he looking? He's just Blu Tack'd together right now but I think he's coming along. I'm waiting till I can get another coat of the red to glue him together, I missed a few spots on him.

Real sad I couldn't participate in the Secret Santa. I didn't have the money on hand to send a package this year, even though I got a ton of spare /wip/shit I could'a sent out.

Hope y'all who participated enjoy whatever ya get though.

>>50523997
Looking good. Which legion is he joining?

Are you a mad enough lad to paint your marines with the bolters already glued on or do you do so separately?

Does anyone have pictures of that fella who did his orks skin with deathworld forest

>>50523997
>Which legion is he joining?
He and the rest of his squad are actually going to be Sternguard stand-ins for my 40k Flesh Tearers army.
I figured that since they were around since before the Blood Angels Legion broke up it might make sense for them to still have some 30k armor to outfit their veterans.

>>50524021
>Are you a mad enough lad to paint your marines with the bolters already glued on or do you do so separately?
I do things the hard way, painting them while they're already on. If I can though, I try to prime them with the bolters, backpacks, helmets, and pauldrons separate since I prime black and those parts are supposed to be (mostly) black for Flesh Tearers anyway.

I field my guys fully assembled as Grey Tide a lot since I'm still learning how to paint and assembling supplies.

It's slow going but its going nonetheless.

>>50516213
really like the bone and marrow look here!

>>50522700

What game is this guy for? What size is he? Nice job on the eyes btw

>>50524707
thanks, i got the eyes done on my first try. he's a Scibor mini so theyre just offbrand generic ones, not for any particular game. in terms of size, he's a bit shorter than a neurothrope maybe? i'm not too sure. about twice as tall as a guardsman.

I'm getting back into painting, and need to replace all my old and used up or dried out paints with something. Currently I'm trying to figure out if I should just buy some nice cheap craft store acrylic or some Vallejo paints. I've tried searching for the difference online, but opinion seems to be split between whether or not getting specialty mini paints actually makes a difference.

Can someone please tell me in specific terms (please don't just say it's "better") why I should spend extra on the Vallejo? What specifically makes miniature paint more suitable for minis?

>>50511007

What if someone were to try to paint with that stuff? Would this be our cure for the two thin coats thing?

>>50524979
higher quality, smaller, larger amounts of pigment

craft store stuff will look chunky or grainy on a mini

>>50525095
Alright, thanks. Guess I'll grab some Vallejo paint then, rather than have to strip/repaint stuff later.

>>50521318
>Have fun not having any glue when you have resin or metal parts, unless you stay a plastic babby your whole life.


I hope you realize you can own more than one bottle of glue..

>>50522886
Looks promising. Now get painting.

>>50516573
>Mark Petrie

good taste

>>50525799

New thread when you're all good and ready