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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 339
Thread images: 94

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Jingle bells! Jingle bells!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Thread:
>>50463155
>>
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Right in time to post my pic made with my non existent skills!
Proud of what we're all doing here with the Secret Santa, thanks again SSA, hope everything goes fine for everyone like it did last year!
Stay awesomes lads!
>>
>>50484200
What colour are Imperials streetlights, /wip/?
>>
hey /wip/, any recommendations on some paintbrush care supplies? I was thinking of picking some up for a buddy of mine for Christmas.
>>
>>50484518
Gold, like everything else.
>>
I'm going to put some footprints on muddy base. I was thinking of just using my sculpting tools but I figured it was worth checking if any of you had any betters ideas.
>>
>>50484575

all you need, nigga.

The Masters : Brush Cleaner and Preserver
>>
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>>50484575
No questions here
>>
>>50484576
>>50484518
I meant what colour their glass/bulbs would be.

It's gold, isn't it.
>>
>>50484606

Interesting question, what is the grimest, darkest, colour of light?
>>
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I'll post this a last time in here.

All who participated in the Secret Santa should have an email with an address for their gift.

If you signed up and got a confirmation but no address then please message me and i'll resend it.

Thank you all for participating!
>>
>>50484641
The absence of it

I'm painting a lamppost for a base decoration, so I'm not sure what to paint it. At first I was going for green, then blue, and now I'm thinking yellow.

I think I'll go back to green though. It might not the best since my Knight is also green, but it's such a minor detail it might be better that it blend in rather than stand out.
>>
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Making progress on my Custodes. Retributor gold is lovely. It's my first time using it and it's so much better than Gehennas gold.
>>
>>50484665
Actually that's a great spot for contrast. If the knight is green, then a blue or yellow bulb would be best, color wheel and all that.
>>
>>50484709
I suppose. Maybe I'll try keep painting blue then, already begun basecoating it anyway.
>>
>>50484591
>>50484600
Awesome, thanks! I actually used to use this stuff all the time for my brushes when I used to do more oil paintings. Don't know why it didn't occur to me to use this for brushes for miniatures ..
>>
How bright should my Black Templar Dreadnought be?
I was considering either a bronze dominant metallic on the legs, or a silver one?
And how should i do the cableage?
>>
Hello, /WIP/. First time here, and I have a couple questions. I want to start a 30k Mechanicum army at Christmas, and it's going to be done Properly. I've only been modeling for about 6 months now, so I don't know if I'm missing something important. The army is going to be Xana II Admech, so I can throw in a Hellblade and convert up a Scoria.
Thing is, how do I paint their official colour scheme? Pic related Thanatar is the right colour, bit I don't know how to make it.

My local GW 30k scene has mostly just basecoated models, and even with my newfag painting skills I think I can top that. So, I'm painting 2k of Legio Cybernetica with a little Ordo Reductor on the side, and none of it is going to tables without all the rest painted.
In other words, I want cool evil boops. Please help.
>>
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I decided to have some fun while painting my Ogres/ogors but I may or may not have gone overboard. Can't tell yet.
>>
>>50484809
I would go for a silver of some kind, gives better contrast. Bronze/Gold would make an excellent accent color though.

The model can be as dark as you like, it really depends on how well you highlight it. The key to dark models is getting a good highlight to make it pop.

For cables: I paint the ribbed cables metallic and wash them to taste, the smooth ones I paint a smooth black and do chevrons.
>>
>>50484663
I hope my man in the Canaries enjoys his gift. I'm picking it up on saturday and sending it asap.
>>
>>50484588
use the foot of another guy
>>
>>50484663
Beckenham Anon, your packet is on the way.
>>
>>50484674
How did you do that face flesh anon?

That looks really good, but I can never get my skin right.
>>
>>50484856
They're a funny race, I'd love to stare across the table at that stuff.
>>
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Something I've been puttering about with in-between working on bases.

hopefully the weather clears up a bit so I can prime him
>>
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>>50484200

What company should the middle man be captain of

2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 9th are taken

I'd make him of the 3rd but the problem is I have to somehow paint a red chapter badge over a red stripe on the shoulderpads
>>
>>50484856
I think you must continue that way
>>
>>50484965

Oh shit, that's me :O
>>
>>50484856

I really really dislike the ogre models in general, but that is a bitching paintjob, freaking cool man!
>>
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>>50484970
Fairly simple really:

Bushman's glow > cadian fleshtones > 50/50 wash of reikland fleshshade/druchi violet > cadian fleshtones > highlights of very watered down cadian fleshtones mixed with white, adding more white the more prominent the highlight.

The stubble is just nuln oil.

Hope that helps dude.
>>
>>50485004
cool stuff!
>>
>>50485046
>What company should the middle man be captain of
>2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 9th are taken

>Assault lad wiff beat-down stikk and pistol

It's obvious: make him captain of the 8th Company, the reserve assault company. Magnetize his backpack so you can switch it out for a jump pack when the need arises.
>>
>>50485361

I already had plans for a lightning claws captain for the 8th

Besides there's no way he's wearing a jump pack with that cape
>>
>>50485258
Damn that's a pretty miraculous paint job
>>
>>50484845
Anyone? Don't need the entire scheme, but how to do the armour panels and black metal might be helpful. Was also considering painting one Thallax or Castellax shoulderpad, probably left, dried blood red with the Xana symbol on. Sound good?
>>
>>50485046
>>50485383
That only leaves 1st and 7th.
>>
>>50485258
Thanks anon.

I really need to get some Cadian fleshtone. My policy of Bugman + fleshshade + kislev flesh doesn't seem too good.
>>
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>>50485531

Mmmm I was thinking of getting this one and making it 3rd... I dont know.
>>
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Just packed my SS gift... Austriadude, here it comes!
>>
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I have an urge to run Bullgryns but I think the models are derp as fuck...

How's this for an alternative idea? Get some AoS bullgors and kitbash on slabshields/grenadier gauntlets/power mauls/brute shields, shave down their horns (except for the bone'ead, obviously) hellboy-style, and greenstuff some clothes/armor onto them.

I'd run them as abhuman auxiliaries from a feral world, which is basically what Bullgryns are.
>>
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Top 2 frames are my attempt and bottom is my reference model

Gave a shot at recreating the colour scheme, obviously I missed the mark and didn't achieve the icy coldness colour. I based with Eshin Grey, dry brushed with dawnstone and followed by administratum grey, and light dry brush/edge highlight with ulthuan grey

Looking for advice on how to tweak my approach to achieve the bluer icy look.
>>
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>>50486064
>That little ribbon

>>50486125
>Bullgryns
>Not some of the best modern IG kit
>>
>>50486162
Maybe try a heavier drybrush of a lighter grey? If you want icyness you could give fenrisian grey a shot
>>
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>>50484663
To the anon in stockholm, your gifts are in the way. I hope they get there in time.
>>
>>50486231
Shit anon, if the gifts are in their own way how can they get anywhere?
>>
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>>50486125
>I'd run them as abhuman auxiliaries from a feral world, which is basically what Bullgryns are.

Wouldn't have batted an eye in the good ol' days.
>>
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>>50486291
REEEEEEEEE

Here is my dragonthing knight. Midly proud of this, i did get lazy in the end but would like any critic you guys throw at me.
>>
>>50484663
>wanted to do this
>way to much of a poorfag to afford
>>
>>50486398
You could litteraly send one dude and be done with it. Better luck next year.
>>
>>50484845
Looks like a light brown/desert yellow/bone to me.

The base color you'll want is probably Zandri Dust.
>>
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Finished the first one, the pictures make the gold look a bit muted but it's much shinier in person. What do you guys think?
>>
>>50486481
Probably. I was thinking I would test out Zandri Dust, layer Tau light Ochre and wash with Agrax, see how that looks.
For the metal, maybe Leadbelcher, then wash several times with Nuln Oil? Or would that just make it look really grimy?
>>
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working on my kill team ig, also my first cadians (friend told me to get all special weapons from normal box and get lasgun guys form 5men squad)
>>
>>50486513
Not a fan of the sheer amount of gold, but that's just a taste thing. Fucking great work, anon. May I one day achieve your level.
>>
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>>50486547
your painting is too good to tolerate those moldlines!!! Get your shit together, anon! You got the skill to do the emprah's work, so scrape those moldlines next tim!
>>
>>50484809
Templar anon, I wanna see the scouts you're painting the bits at the top of the picture for.

I love me some scouts. Or whatever you templar dudes call them. Novitiates?
>>
>>50486606
>That painstakingly highlighted fur

It was worth the work anon. Well done.
>>
>>50486794
Am I daft? I thought that fur was dry brushed
>>
>>50486831
Looks drybrushed to me
>>
>>50486529
Nuln Oil wouldn't really make it grimy, its got a somewhat glossy finish from what I remember, I haven't actually painted anything in a while. You may want to consider serephim sepia or agrax earthshade, maybe mixed with nuln oil to get a better oiled up look where your pistons and other movement bits are.
>>
>>50486916
WASH IT ALL AGRAX!
OK, sure. I have a couple Skitarii Dragoons I can try the paint schemes on, I'll do one Nuln Oil and one Agrax and see which I like best.
>>
>>50486831
>>50486906
Well shit then. I list say I hesitated, but I don't know, it doesn't have that usual dusty, rough look. I guess that's a good sign!
>>
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>>50486694

yeah, next week should have new cutting mat and tools/drill to improve assembling

I'm also working on chimera with urban scheme
>>
>I don't need no speed
>I don't need no Heroine
>I don't need no coke
>You can keep your ketamine
>I am a minis junkie
>Paint won't come out chunky
>>
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>>50486064
That might be me
>>
Post your assembly/painting process, I need to see if I'm doing this right.

>cut from sprue
>sort parts into marine ingredients, add to individual tupperwares, sans arms and weapons
>24hr isopropyl bath to remove release agent
>assemble and prime with brush primer for better control
>basecoat
>layer
>wash only the recesses
>highlight
>find arms that fit my abbadon marine pose and add after priming/painting in the same order
>paint add gun at the very end

I also paint the inside of the backpack and the back of the marine, then glue and finish them together. Is this too inefficient even if I assembly line it?
>>
>>50487256
>>cut from sprue
>>sort parts into marine ingredients, add to individual tupperwares, sans arms and weapons
>>24hr isopropyl bath to remove release agent


That sounds really unnecessary to me.
Sometimes washing is needed, but a bit of dish soap is usually enough.
>>
>>50486162
This base make me embarrassed I'm just using the GW basses with Martian Ironearth. How do I make good bases?
>>
>>50487278
The tupperwares are just for organizational purposes, so I can cut and trim in batches and not mix parts up. Keep in mind, I bought a FW legion, so 2 Mark IV 10-packs with a bunch of resin add-ons. Plus some decorations left over form a Company Vet box. I'm rationing out cool parts and don't want them to get mixed or lost. The iso bath was just a perk since I could clean them passively while doing other stuff (stupid normie friends wanting to leave their houses) and had a container already provided.
>>
>>50487344
Oh, you are talking about resin..

Why not wash the whole sprue first?
>>
>>50487367
No real idea, I think the shower was in use at the time I was unboxing and I only have enough tupperware to do 5 at a time. Either way, I dislike having a lot of open boxes.
>>
For cleaning plastic before priming, is alcohol all right? I have been washing them with alcohol, leaving them to dry for 5 or so min, and then priming. However, the primer on a couple of them rubs off, as does the primer on the rims of all my bases, although I suppose that is from me touching them.
>>
>>50487436
You don't need to clean plastic. You clean resin, and soap is fine for that.
>>
>>50487436
Its unnecessary but it shouldn't cause any problems as long as the plastic is completely dry when you apply the primer.
>>
The packaging's a little on the rough side as I was reusing what I had on hand, by I shall have your present in the post tomorrow, Bordeaux Anon! Its not much, but I hope you like it nonetheless.
>>
>>50487461
I tend to handle them a lot before priming them; I didn't want skin oils etc. to cause the primer to not stick well
>>
>>50487023
Looks fine, drybrushing looks so scratchy.
>>
Homebrew Skyshield Landing Pad: Balsa Retard Edition.

Just finished the 2nd Aquila. Taking idea for gubbins and cover to go on top.
>>
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>>50487857
Of course I forget the image.
>>
>>50487872
>4.82 MB, 5312x2988

holy fuck. stop.

open mspaint and reduce size by like 95% fucking hell
>>
>>50487903
Jesus I never noticed that, I've just been taking phone pictures. I also noticed that portrait photos flip to landscape once they'really uploaded. Nice.
>>
>>50487949

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.simplemobilephotoresizer
>>
>>50487903
>>50487965

I'll download that then. Are you telling me you don't need to see every single particle of wood in that MDF? Lol
>>
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>>50487982
>>
Jump pack + cloak on a character model - yeah or nah?

Looks cool but I imagine it would be functionally retarded in the real world. Would it bother people?
>>
>>50488198
It would be funny if you made the cloak look like it was burnt to a crisp by the jump pack.
>>
>>50488198
I'd let it pass as rule of cool. If its a space marine flame-y jump pack, I would just reason its made of some special, fire-retardant fabric or maybe even a metallic weave. You could put soot stains on it by the exhausts if you wanted!
>>
>>50488261
>>50488243

Hmm I might look for other ways to put swag on my jump chars then.

Preferably wouldn't want it to be thought of at all, so I'll stay away from something that sticks out like that.

Marking it with burnmarks would look funny but would only highlight its retardation, heh. Maybe for Orks tho!
>>
roman mech cruiser anon here. took my model into the shop. the competition is pretty fierce though.
>>
>>50488472
>>
>>50488487
>>
>>50487023
>>50487846
probably drybrushed with something relatively high contrast before a dark wash
>>
>>50488472
good luck then, because a decent paint job can't help a virulently shitty sculpt like that
>>
>>50488428
Well, I wouldn't protest it, I was just giving a reason for if anyone did complain. Cloaks are always cool. I'm going to put robes on all my Vanguard vets, who are standing in as an honour guard for a jump CM.
>>
>>50488607
Yeah you're actually right. Cloaks on a non-jump char would be ridiculous in a real world too anyway, so fuck it. I'm gonna go for it if I want to.
>>
>>50488472
It looks good in the showcase anon. Good luck!
>>
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Aaand the last part of this is done.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hx9TO4Tao8
>>
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Plan on redoing the bases in the future.
>>
>>50487256
Jesus christ what? Why would you clean them after cutting them off?

>dip sprues in warm soapy water
>scrub with a dish brush
>cut all the pieces I need off
>trim mold lines and sprue connections
>glue, base (rarely bother leaving parts off for painting, I only paint to a slightly above tabletop quality anyway)
>prime with a spray primer
>start most important/complex colours, basecoat and usually one highlight
>slap in all the more simple detail colours, basecoat and then wash
>come back to complex colours, wash, drybrush, and then highlight once more
>>
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I can't find this sprue in victoria's shop anymore.
Anybody know if these are no longer sold or did I just miss them?
>>
New to painting miniatures but I don't think it turned out too bad for my first time applying layering techniques. I gave it all the base coats then washed the entire figure in earth shade. Then layered a lighter skin tone on top without going over the crevices.

I think only using one wash and applying it all over was my only real mistake since even with the layer it still looks kinda dirty.
>>
I asked last thread of anyone knew a place to get asian heads for marines, one anon told me about Fire Forge's Steppe Warriors but there are only about 4 different options, are there any others available?

Google-fu has failed me and I don't really wanna yellowface the default heads
>>
>>50489516
Oh, forgot the varnish at the end. Honestly, I've said this before and got a pretty autistic response, but with a solid coat of varnish you can barely notice the difference between primer and just an undercoat of acrylic paint, so yeah I don't worry too much about the recesses that don't quite get primed during spraying.
>>
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>plan on accruing cheap models and paint stripping them with Simple Green
>mfw green stuff is physically cockblocking my plans

Anyway I need to take apart some space marine terminators and I heard a day in a freezer loosens up the glue. How easy/hard is it to pull apart the body at that point without turning my $2 termie into a pile of refuse?
>>
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>>50484665
Yellow as it is the most basic of light colors. And I imagine they went back to using tungsten. The Mechanicus are hoarding the LED bulbs.


On another note, how can i get my drive back to paint the rest of the 20 gaunts. And finish my christmas cards for other boards.
>>
>>50489723
I thought I saw in some official art that neon lights was being used in the richer areas of Hive Cities. Does that sound lore friendly or am I misremembering?
>>
>>50489723
As someone who still has 30 more gaunts to paint, I too would like to know. I used to paint 10 at a time and then "reward" myself with a Monstrous Creature, but gaunts are all I have left to paint and just staring at that black mass on my work table is pretty daunting.
>>
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>>50489764
is this official art? I'm kind of new to things that arent my up and coming tyanid army. They seem incandescent to me. But i've also seen some blue and red lights on vehicles.
>>
>>50489812
It is, but the Imperial Palace would also have the best of best when it came to amenities so I'm not sure if it's a fair comparison.
>>
>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
How much exposure are we talking about to have this occur? Some of those symptoms apply to me, even though they are extremely vague. Not that it matters much, but do you have to deeply sniff the stuff or simply be in a normal sized room while using it?
>>
Just got riders now.
How's she look so far?
>>
>>50489854
they get the 100 watt bulbs, everyone else gets 40 watt
>>
>>50484674
>>50485258
>reikland fleshshade/druchi violet

I'm fucking up my dudes' skin by using Agrax aren't I. Duncan did it on the Cadians and I was too cheap to buy the reikland on top of agrax and nuln, so I thought I could get away with cutting corners
>>
>>50486365

Paints seem adequately thin, highlights might not be stark/contrast enough, but that could be an issue with the pic or lighting. At the least, that hammer could use a recess wash. Also dat moldline in the cloak could really have used a bit of greenstuff desu senpai
>>
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>>50484200

Can someone help me with yellow?
I'm trying to get my Horrors of Tzeentch to be a bright yellow color and I'm having a hell of a time. I've primed them tan, and when I try to base them with Iyanden Darksun (that's Averland Sunset in new-paint-speak) it covers beautifully. It doesn't run or pool up, not clogging any detail up, just a really good nice coverage. But that's a lot darker yellow than I want.

If I try to use Flash Gitz Yellow, or Lunar Yellow from the Vallejo line, I just cannot get any kind of coverage. I've tried thinning the crap out of them, thinning a moderate amount, only thinning a little bit, using water, Lahmian Medium and Vallejo thinner medium, and also straight out of the pot. The paint just goes on runny, it pools up, leaves brush marks, it just cannot go on smoothly with a good coverage.

What am I doing wrong? If it isn't obvious, I'm a fairly new painter.
>>
>>50490069
Multiple thin coats is what I've found works best. Don't be impatient. That first coat will look like ass, but you gotta let it dry fully. Also don't run your brush over paint that's only partly dry (Like trying to touch stuff up before it dries). That will lead to you dragging half dry paint around, which leads to brush stroke marks. Yellows and whites can be difficult to work with, but patience really is the key with them.
>>
>>50488506
>>50488487
>>50488472
>implying ANY of this is well painted.

I'd pick the red/yellow Knight if I had to pick anything there as a clear winner.
>>
>>50489800
to keep myself going I snapchat my progress to my friends, even if they don't like painting themselves. that way I constantly have people telling me if it looks like it's going well or if it looks like wet dog shit.
>>
>>50490229
i have an fb page i put all my stuff on, but i also have one friend who encourages me whenever i show him what im working on. it helps.

www facebook com/markspaintmarks/
>>
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>>50490121
>That first coat will look like ass, but you gotta let it dry fully

Even with the brush marks that I just can't seem to avoid no matter how thin and what I use to thin? Just let em dry and hit it again?
I've only painted a few things, and it's always in dark colors which are pretty easy to get full coverage of. I've never tried anything this bright before. I'm glad I started with my horrors, I figure by the time I'm done painting all 40 of them I'll be good enough to get to my nicer models like my DPs (giggity) and possibly Magnus at Christmas time.
>>
>>50489569

Paint was too thick, not bad for a first time but for future reference (especially on big smooth areas like his belly) if you think it's thin enough, thin it some more. As long as it is still slightly thicker than water, it's good. Just put a super-thin layer, wait till its dry, do another, and keep going until it's opaque enough for your tastes.

As far as Agrax, you can definitely do an all-over shade on a figure like that but you might want to do it a bit thinner. It's kind of dark for a flesh-wash so avoiding almost-black pools like in the crevices of his fatrolls will help make it look less "dirty"

>>50490069

For a brighter yellow prime white instead of tan. Iyanden over tan is pretty much guaranteed to get you a deeper/darker yellow.

You can even do
>Spray white
>very thin coat of ceramite white to touch up and seal the primer
>yellow glaze/yellow wash

If you don't want to buy a new can of primer just drop a layer of white over the tan instead of the Iyanden, slap on a few thin coats of flash gits and you should get to a good point for a recess wash or glaze to add shadow or whatever you want to do from there.

I've recently switched to white primer after using black for 15+ years and once you get used to not missing any spots in the recesses and not panicking when your first coat is splotchy, it is actually a lot easier for any project that doesn't center on dark colours.

As a final note, you *really* don't need to worry about using a matte medium/thinner for this, and as a fairly new painter you probably don't want to mess with it too much until you really have the basics down. It's got a very limited number of uses at which it excels, and a great number of potential uses for which it is a complete waste.

Have you tried shaking your paints a ridiculous amount? Vallejo in particular tends to "settle" in the bottle and take about 30 seconds of shaking (more for finicky colours like yellows, pastels, or metallics) before it's ready
>>
>>50490283
I got this yellow by priming silver, but then I did a basecoat of Ushabti Bone and then a layer of averland sunset, then thin laters of flash gitz.
i think it really depends on the base coat, i couldnt get a nice yellow till i tried ushabti.
>>
>>50490283
Yep. Let it dry and just hit it again. I do a lot of painting with Pallid Wych Flesh and I have had the same issues. Painting multiple thin completely solved all my problems regarding coverage with light paints.
>>
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>>50489854
Good news, I'm learning things
Bad news is that it ranges based on the planet. Basically you have some planets using fire, and others using plasma because fuck it why not.
from everything i've gathered though, the light color is generally yellow and electrical based.
>>
>>50490328
Damn anon thanks for compiling this. It'll make for a nice little reference sheet once I start painting lights myself.
>>
>>50490283

Why don't you show us a pic of one of the horrors that you've done with the splotchy coverage/brush marks so we can diagnose the problem(s) more easily

You will get some very faint brushmarks that disappear when it dries all the time, pretty much, but it takes practice just to be able to judge if you've got it thin enough by doing a test-stroke.
>>
>>50490345
theres also a few images of street lamps people have painted that I didn't add into it since thats what those players want to make as opposed to official stuff. They're generally an edgy red color or yellow. a few people used those tiny LED lights that you can find in christmas stuff.
heres a link to some lighting i would use if i make my own street lamps. because its 50% off in my local store right now, i like the spotlights
http://www.michaels.com/lemax-gas-lantern-street-lamp-set-of-4-battery-operated/10487261.html
http://www.michaels.com/lemax-field-lights-battery-operated/10487265.html
http://www.michaels.com/lemax-round-spot-light-set-of-2-battery-operated/10487263.html
>>
>>50490199
He's proud of his work. God forbid.
>>
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>>50490069 and >>50490283 here

>>50490121
>>50490295
>>50490326
>>50490365

Thanks a lot fellas. To be honest, when I posted that message I had just put my models down in frustration and came right here to ask about it. I can't do a picture at the moment but they're dried now and after going back to look them over it's not anywhere near as bad as I thought. Definitely still needs another coat or 2 but the brush marks are gone. I've just gotta watch that pooling.
>>
hows your desk looking /wip/? sorry it thumbnailed on me
>>
>>50486513
what does it look like without the filter on it though? unless of course your fingers are bright orange normally.
>>
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I'm assembling a bits list of pieces I want to make my chapter master out of, and I'm having some difficulty. He's gonna have a 30k Thousand sons helmet with the little fork thing, a 30k thousand sons torso, a Sanguinary guard wing pauldron, a Sanguinary guard wrist bolter, and a 40k Thousand Sons pauldron. I need suggestions for suitably ornate legs, power pack, and left arm, as well as a suitably unique power sword, although I'm probably going to have to scratch build that last one to get it the way I'm imagining it.
>>
>>50492253
No filter on it dude. Maybe the lighting?
>>
>>50492444
trips demands i add input for you
id recommend using either stern guard or vanguard legs, depending on the pose you want.
I honestly don't like the sanguinary guard pauldron, and would recommend against it, as the wing is gonna be a big eye catcher and will detract from the rest of the model. Id recomend using one of those layered shoulders that came in the company command squad marine kit, the ones for making a champion. its got bulk, but doesn't have a lot of details to catch the eye
>>
>>50489587
Anyone?
>>
/wip/, I could use some advice. I'm trying to create a SM dropship on a budget, but I can't stand the design of the stock Stormraven. Does anyone have suggestions or experience converting either a Stormraven or even a Stormwolf? I have an old Valkyrie on hand that can be mulched for parts if necessary.
>>
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PRIVATE YOU BETTER HOPE THAT BLOODTHIRSTER GETS TO YOU BEFORE I DO OR I WILL UNFUCK YOUR SHIT SEVEN WAYS TO SUNDAY!

Working on my new platoon commander, what do you guys think? Knife hand too high, too low? Can't decide between level so it's pointing right at the guardsmen or a 45* angle so it drives home how pissed he is/ make sure the Tau Riptide knows he's pointing at it.

I think I'm gonna shave a little off the wrist to shorten it as well, his hand looks a bit long right now.
>>
>>50493223
Pretty awesome anon. Are you gonna have him leading a more realistic looking catachan army?
>>
>>50489949
I use Agrax Earthshade sometimes. Tends to give a slightly darker skin shade than the old pot of Ogryn Fleshshade I have. Looks fine in my opinion.
>>
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>>50493246
Hadnt thought of him leading my Mad Robot Catachans (which are the best Catachan models you're gonna find honestly) thats a good idea though.

Actually I'd planned on him leading my "Cadians" that Victoria Lamb makes since he has the armor and and legs they use, as well as one of the arms. Pic related. Sorry they're still a bit rough, need some highlights and drybrushing to make the red pop
>>
>>50493311
I had no idea mad robot made campaign hat dudes, welp time to make a kill team of them.
>>
>>50493223
>knife hands externally
Holy kek
>>
I think I'm gonna make a custom IG regiment. Vo'strayans. Any mini company making 'strayan looking bits?
>>
>>50493429
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/products/van-diemens-world-devils?pagesize=12
>>
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>>50493401
Mad robot makes some top knotch stuff. Between him and Victoria Lamb you can't go wrong with IG bits. They both make great stuff. Their body parts don't always match up (Victoria's arms are much slimmer than Mad Robot's) but their heads, torsos, and legs match up decently well. A lot of my models are a mix of those. Mad robot also makes some great boonie hats, and vietnam style helmets, one even has a peace symbol on it. I have about 20 Danamians (his name for Catachans) and as long as you go bare or rolled sleeve arms you can't go wrong on em, they look great.

Those two and warlord historicals are a great source of bits. Ol' Knife hands there is the left arm out of the USMC kit, with the knife hand itself from the dreamforge upgrade sprue, which has several knifehands on it. All of my guardsmen are wearing various historical webbing, mostly from the soviet and US GI sprues, and the new German Grenadier and US USMC boxes have a ton of great rolled sleeve arms with things like maps, binocs, and various hand symbols that look great as well.

I probably have the most expensive guardsmen you can possibly make, but I love variety and personalizing each and every one of the expendable little bastards. Heck, I've got 80 more of these guys in the mail. Between them and the bits I need from Vic to sci fi them, I'm gonna spend less than a $100 on 80 guardsmen, so the cost will balance out pretty quick.

>>50493429
Vostroyans are the one regiment I've never seen a great attempt at bits for, I guess because they're the most difficult? Vic makes most of the bits you need aside from heads. No idea where you could find some nice vostroyan heads. From the look of it, Vic's working on it. She's making fancy breast plates, has greatcoat legs, winter arms, and most of the other kit they need. All she's missing is the heads

http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/products/rausenburg-siege-corps?pagesize=12
>>
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New player trying to pick out a color scheme for a homebrew chapter and it's driving me insane.

>Ooh I want them to be dark green!
You are now Dark Angels

>What if I go for another shade of green?
You are now Salamanders

>If I swap to a wholly different shade of bluish green AND add some red/burgundy?
You are now a Dark Eldar copycat

>Alright maybe if I add some gold and black then?
You are now Sons of Horus

Fuck me I've been agonizing and switching back and forth for a week now. I feel like every other color I've checked out would be even more instantly recognizable as something already established.
Should I give up trying not to match ANY faction and instead just avoid the chapter specific ones? It might have been retarded to even try that to begin with. I do like the Dark Eldar scheme too...
>>
>>50493581
Come up with a unique chapter symbol and/or give them some sort of schtick. For example there are space marine chapters out there who look more tacticool than other or some that incorporate stuff like celtic lore or etc. etc.

The big thing though is chapter symbols. If you can come up with a unique one that'll help prevent people just assuming your color is a certain chapter.
>>
>>50493479
I'm not talking about Vostroyans. I wanna make some Vo'strayans. Some right shootin cunts.

>>50493460
Now thats the shit I'm after thanks m8
>>
>>50493223
love it
your painting better do it justice son
>>
>>50493223
Honestly looks a little more like a platoon sergeant to me but still a beautiful model anon.
>>
Now that I have my 'strayan bits ordered, I need some fucking 'roos for my rough riders to ride. Any suggestions /wip/?
>>
>>50493581
Some mates (way back ten years ago) used spacemarines in bronze color which to my knowledge is not used by any other chapter.

That asides if you want you can go there to check if your color is 'used' but bear in mind that given the huge number of chapter it might. Is that truly a problem, it depends on you (at least for 'main' chapter):

http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Pictorial_List_of_Space_Marine_Chapters_A-L

http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Pictorial_List_of_Space_Marine_Chapters_M-Z

Hope it helps
>>
>>50493687
Fits my regiment's theme, basically a bunch of shattered remnants hoovered up by an insane rogue trader with a "gotta catch em all" mentality towards IG units.

So it makes sense that some platoons are being lead by NCO's because the officer bit the dirt a long time ago, especially due to the fact that these guys are essentially a private army for this rogue trader who's not fighting your average run of the mill opponents.

Makes for a fun theme for an infantry swarm army, and makes telling platoons apart a hell of a lot easier.
>>
>>50493607
>Come up with a unique chapter symbol and/or give them some sort of schtick

Yeah I've been thinking about it. So far I think I've decided to roll with SM's already heavy allusions to knights in space, and go for it completely. Kinda Grey Knightish helmets for everyone and maybe some colorful heraldry as the chapter badge.

While I imagine it's a common theme for homebrews since its so apparent, it might at least set me apart from the official ones in the same colors. I've always liked fuck-huge plated knights too.

Maybe I've just been overthinking it honestly.

>>50493720

Thanks for the list, but I've already been over them religiously. Like I said above I think I've just gone a bit too far in my quest to be a special snowflake and should just get over it and pick something I'm generally happy with.
>>
>>50493311
I just thought it would be pretty fitting considering he's from a vietnam movie.
>>
>>50493772
Ok if you want to do Heraldique just do the color correctly pls (it's not hard)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_tincture

TL;DR -> Don't put Color/Metal on themselves. Color = Blue,Red,Black,Green,Purple / Metal = White(Grey)/Yellow
>>
>>50493890

Thanks man, will do. Don't think I'll do anything advanced though. At most something like the pauldron being cut into four squares and two (maaaybe four) different colors.

I'll experiment with sculpting and then replicating a simple emblem out of green stuff to stick into the middle of it to get some depth, and also because I don't trust my freehanding since I'm new.
>>
>>50493581
Bloody hell anon, they are your dudes.
Just paint them however you see fit.
Fuck other chapters colours and go with what you think looks cool.
If you don't splatter dragon heads on Green marines, they aren't salamanders.
If you paint them yellow but there are no Black fist symbols, they aren't necessarily imperial fists.

You get me?

Dark eldar copycat is fine.

My SW are dark grey with light grey pauldrons and white trims. elite and HQ get Red shoulders with Gold trims.
My Tau are urban camo.
My Ad Mech (All converted, started 2 years before official admech release) are normal Red with White cog trims, but that doesn't mean they are from Mars.
>>
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>>50486162
Tried to redo in a lighter blue tone. Think it's getting closer to the reference model. Comparing, I may be dry brushing too broadly and need to focus on each stone at a time to get the change of colour across the stone.

Also tried out some Valhallan Blizzard as shown.

LGS mentioned that the colour I'm going for may be too similar to the grey knight scheme and not enough contrast between the base and model.

Opinions?
>>
>>50487286
you buy them from places like secret weapon and scibor.
>>
>>50494126
Also seems like I suck at reducing image resolution
>>
>work at LGS
>one youngster go on spending spree
>buy like 2k points of tyranids last month
>paint them almost all at terrible quality and scheme
>my colleague try to encourage him, saying it's ok
>I'm trying to give him some advice how could he improve his skill and make them look more clean and crispy
>ignored
>now his mom bought him 2 boxes of Space Jiffs
>yesterday he showed up with SW painted in pastel green with gold trim
>everyone roll their eyes, but says it's totally ok

I guess I'll not interfere anymore, untill he's happy with them...
>>
>>50494392
In a few years he will look back and go "What the hell was I thinking"
>>
>>50494487
>>50494392
its the lesson everyone has to learn first hand
>>
Does anyone have any painting guides on tron lines?
>>
>>50494803
Pick dark base colour for main part of mini
Highlight with colour you want as tronlines
Highlight edges with a brighter version of said colour
>>
>>50494044
Well, what i would advise is something like 1/2 color and a symbol in the middle. I am French and given our history much of the cities have coats of arms.
Here is the french wiki with the list of regions. If you click on one you will get the coats of the cities of that regions. If you want example on what to do.
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armorial_des_communes_de_France
They can, however, be a bit complicated so you might want to stick to a simple one
>>
>>50494894
Thanks a lot man. I was thinking of going for somewhat of a French theme (names and such) anyway since the German theme seems overplayed (black templars and in fantasy). Bookmarking that page.
>>
>>50494392
Wish I had that kinda money as a kid.

Hell, I wish I had that kinda money now.
>>
Just finished my first Raider, well mostly. Should I put extra bits like spikes and blades on now, or wait till its painted a bit? Obviously, the crew are painted and added later, it's the other bits idk about.
>>
>>50495072
I like the camouflage. I can barely see it!
>>
Are there any good painting tutorials on how to paint a realmgate?
>>
Can you guys help me with a terrain project? I have a nice cardboard structure I want to look like a stone complex. The shape is perfect, but the cardboard is very smooth, I'm afraid it would look weird once painted. How do I give it some texture?
As for paint it will be simply dark gray, washed with agrax and then drybrushed with light grey.
>>
>>50495115
I'm pretty sure there's a duncan video on how to paint them.
>>
>>50495120
stucco wall paint or whatever it is can be used for a really rough stone texture, or maybe cut some rough brick shapes from pvc or cardboard and stick them onto it if you wanted something like a traditional castle wall.
>>
>>50495120
Mix scouring powder (jif/cif/whatever) or very fine sand with your base coat.

Or just use a really good matte spray primer.
>>
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>>50495109

I didn't think a picture was needed. It's a raider.

No, the sail posts aren't glued.
>>
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For those interested, took another crack at it, and I think I'm happy with how it's come out.
For my future bases I intend to green stuff between the plastic base and sculpey to make it more seamless.
>>
>>50495225
The gold looks flat and the snow looks a bit odd but looks good otherwise.
>>
>>50495282
Now that you mention it, I forgot to put a sepia wash on the gold. I would like a much more paler gold but having trouble achieving it.

First time using snow so going to be a steep learning curve to figure out how snow should naturally sit.
>>
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These wytches I will never use.

Needs the silver metals then done
>>
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A package for Mr.Gusen about to be posted!
>>
Just got my airbrush in the mail today. Any basic tutorials I could do to practice it? How did your airbrushing journey start, anons?
>>
>>50495478


Assemble it and try to spray plain water through it to see if everything works like it should.
Get some cardboard or other "junk" to practice simple patterns on.
Then try some easy stuff like priming.
Then you can advance from there
>>
>>50495491
What else do you need apart from the airbrush and the compressor? Cleaning kit and alcohol?
>>
>>50495594
some tubes and connectors etc, if they aren't included already. Some compressors come without. Also get some airbrush thinner.

Cleaning alcohol and a cleaning set won't hurt either. You can use airbrush cleaner too, but that stuff is way more expensive and in the end cleaning alcohol will work equally well.
>>
>>50495302
I wouldn't do sepia; that just adds warmth to the scene. Just do black, or make a wash of Payne's gray (a mix of blue and black).
>>
>>50487176
Or me!

Singapore anon, yours is being posted Monday.
>>
>>50495491
Thanks Anon!

I've already assembled/disassembled it and sprayed cleaned it. Looks like everything works as it should. I remember I've seen a link to a tutorial with simple lines, circles etc posted a few threads ago, but cant find it anymore. Any suggestions? Also, what kind of primer should I use, is the valljo surface primer good?

https://www.amazon.de/Vallejo-Surface-Primer-White-200ml/dp/B0063TQ7HW

I've only used rattlecans so far...
>>
>>50493409
>>50493223
>Knife hands externally
>>
>>50495668
Oh crap, if you're Austria-based, how much did postage to fucking Singapore cost? To Austria it was 10€ from Germany (still expensive as fuck, imho)!
>>
>>50495704
I think that might have been me.
http://www.airbrushtutor.com/airbrush-control-exercises/
You can find practice patterns all over the place, though. I recall seeing a little kit last time I was in the craft store with a couple sheets of frisket, some test patterns and an exacto.
>>
>>50495594
I bought a sceon-hand set off of ebay, only used once (invoice from this october) including a compressor, 3 hoses, airbrush, cleaning pot, some colors, thinner and cleaning agent.

I'd say the bare minimum would be something like:
Airbrush:
https://www.amazon.de/Agora-Tec%C2%AE-Airbrush-AT-AK-01-Schlauch-verschiedenen/dp/B00693719K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480684473&sr=8-1&keywords=agora-tec

Cleaning station:
https://www.amazon.de/Agora-Tec%C2%AE-Airbrush-CLEAN-Reinigungs-Zubeh%C3%B6r-Set-Reinigungsb%C3%BCrsten-Reinigungsnadeln/dp/B00I3EE8X0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1480684473&sr=8-10&keywords=agora-tec

Compressor:
https://www.amazon.de/Airbrush-Compressor-AT-AC-04-Airbrushanwendungen-Kondenswasserfilter/dp/B00699EQRE/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1480684473&sr=8-14&keywords=agora-tec
>>
>>50495747
Yeah nice, that was it, thank you!
>>
>>50494126
You don't always need to have a contrasting base. You can have a complimentary base as well, or even one very similar to the paint scheme.

for example, I painted a Circle Orboros army in various greens and purples, with leather colors and gold accents. I also had bases made of swamps with green flock as a kind of gunk (works great by putting flock into a tub and mix it with water effects, and then top it off after that first layer dries) with purple flowers and brown roots.

IT all came together as one solid piece with everything complimenting. I think you just need to work on your contrast/highlighting for your grey knights. You can go MUCH higher on highlights for the bolter, the sword crossguard and the book emblem, and you should work at getting much more shading or "lowlighting" on the steel.
>>
>>50495757
>Cleaning station
That's an absolute must; why don't they just include those in compressor/brush package kits?
>>
>>50495030
I lived with my parents and they had no issues with me paying basically fuck all for rent so long as I was working and being a positive influence on my younger siblings.

I had bought myself a new computer and several Warmachine armies before I'd even realized I was throwing my money away.

Ah to be 18 again.
>>
>>50484518
Sodium-vapor yellow.
>>
>>50495666
I'll give this a go, you're right the sepia does just made it stronger. Just been trying to work out how to pale up the gold, really struggling. Closest I got was base in retributor armour, layer auric and a light dry brush with a metallic silver to try soften it. But even then I wasn't happy with it.

>>50495779
I think I will stick with this base scheme despite not being contrasting. I should of mentioned that the grey knight I threw on was still a WIP, everything you mentioned was still to be completed ie highlighting on bolter and crossguard, and book pages/scroll work had not yet been started. I'll have a closer look at the shading and lowlighting on the steel though and see what I can do next time. You're right in that image it does look very flat and monotone.
>>
The ruinous powers have struck me down with flu so I haven't been able to get to the LGS for the Secret Santa this week.

Many people sent theirs out?
>>
>>50496007
Around 10-15 that posted about sending theirs these last 2 threads.
>>
>>50495704
>is the valljo surface primer good?

Yes. Can't go wrong with vallejo. It won't hurt to pick up a 200ml bottle of their airbrush thinner too. If you use it reasonably, that bottle will last you for a long time.

I think Doctor Faust did some Airbrush tutorials
>>
>>50495704
Are you German? (.de amazon links)
Check out "Tabletop Basement" on youtube. They did a couple of airbrush tutorials.
>>
>>50495781
Some sets have it included actually.
>>
>>50496152
>>50496145
Ye, Germanon.

Cool, thanks, I'll check both out as soon as I get home!

I already got 200ml Vallejo thinner, think that'll last some time
>>
>>50495456
>that handwriting
do you work in calligraphy?
>>
Should I try an alternate AdMech scheme, or stick with the usual crimson/bone?
>>
>>50496366
Do a green - silver scheme
>>
>>50496366
Man the best thing about tabletop gaming is you can paint your force ANY way you want.

If I had the dosh I'd be buying up a Grey Knight army and painting them in a Blood Angels scheme.

Find a color combination you enjoy painting and like the look of and put it on your army dude.
>>
>>50493223
>Knife hands that high
Holy fuck, he's mad.
>>
>>50493581
Similar problem anon. I decided to get Wolfwoves and give them a green/gold paint job for maximum Gael.
>>
>>50484674

I swear I saw this picture in the 40k Facebook group. I'm assuming that was you? Nice job anon.
>>
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>>50496687
Haha yeah it's up there too. Trying to get whatever C&C I can find. Cheers bro!

Added a bit more to Ahriman today too.
>>
>>50486435

What kind of stuff did you guys get for 10-15 bucks? Like...2/3 paints or a brush?
>>
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>>50496727
>>
>>50493223
>GETCHUR HANDS OUTTA YOUR POCKETS
>FIX YOURSELF
>IT WOULD BEHOOVE YOU
>BE AT THE MOTOR POOP AT FRIGGIN' DAGGON' 0430, YOU'RE GETTING YOUR MRAP LICENSE!
>GOOD TO GO?
>>
>>50496810
>Motor poop
I'm fucking dying. Sometimes, I love my phone.
>>
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>>50493223
>Knife hand too high, too low?

I'd say level the tips of the finger with his face tops.

Also, does it count as a power sword?
>>
>>50495423
I like the green a lot.
>>
>>50496857

Knife hand should confer fearless to the unit.

Because no-one is fucking with a man with his knife hand THAT high.
>>
Just sent my gift to Spain. Hope you like it Anon!
>>
>>50496857
>>50496928
What happens when the knife hand is next to the sgt's head?
>>
>>50497048
Isn't that a salute?
>>
>>50497089
No, Like his knife hand is so high up that instead of going up into the air, he bends his elbow so he's shaking the knife hand near his face.
>>
>>50496727
>>50496740

Damn fine job bro.

The only thing I can think of is the cloak looks a bit plain from the back, maybe some small freehand runes or symbols on the lower edge or something might spice it up a bit.
>>
>>50497111

No one has ever survived to tell the tale.
>>
>>50484663
To the guy in Indian Rock Beach, FL, I'll be sending yours after this weekend, so sorry about the delay.
>>
>>50493223
He has a Colonel Straken vibe, and it's glorious.
>>
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>>50489526
So I take it nobody knows if they are out of production or just out of stock then?
Cause they still sell the other sprue with the goggles.

Anyway, would be a fucking shame to see them go. They were a really clever idea.
>>
>>50496736
Stuff on ebay for example. I send more than 20 pounds worth of stuff but I wasn't using them anyway and one is a model every /wip/ poster should have.
>>
>>50496810
>>50496857
>>50496928
>>50497048
>>50497089
>>50497111
>>50497211
I've laughed to tears. Anon did a damn good job.
>>
Quick question, I'm painting up my wolf lord and I'm trying to come up with an interesting color scheme for his left shoulder pad and I'm drawing blanks. He has the shoulder with the wolf head on it.
>>
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What do you guys highlight black bolter casings with?

I highlight with Eshin Grey or Dawnstone but both look kinda shitty. How do you do it?

Pic unrelated. My Word Bearers.
>>
Oregon anon

Your gift cometh
>>
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>>50497831
Did you mix sand into your paints?

Watch how far away you prime from the model anon. This is how smooth a primed model should look.
>>
>>50496007
>Many people sent theirs out?

I'm planning to send mine out next Monday, the 5th of December. I have a casting experiment that I need to perform first, and an eBay auction or two that I might not relist to sweeten the deal.
>>
>>50493607
I've been fluffing out a Celtic-y chapter but for the life of me I can't settle on a colour scheme. I may just steal the Flesh Tearers one. Can't say I fancy trying to paint celtic knots on anything though.
>>
>>50498105
There wouldn't be a good way to make a stencil and put the same design on each?
>>
>>50498105
tfw plaid capes
>>
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>>50498125
>>50498156
Perhaps this is a decent place to start. Though Green & Red schemes always win the risk of becoming Christmas Marines.

The Chapter Master definitely isn't called Vortigern.
>>
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>>50498234
Ariadna in Infinity have some celtic/hibernian theme in places.

http://infinitythegame.com/catalogue/ariadna.html
>>
>>50496572
Pics please! It sounds cool.
>>
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>>50497573
I'm not really too deep into Space Wolves lore, but can't the Wolf Lord do what he wants?
The forces led by the Wolf Lords usually wear the Wolf Lord's personal heraldry.
The one we see most commonly is the black wolf head in profile on yellow ground because that is Ragnar Blackmane's symbol.

So whatever the rest of your dudes are wearing should probably be, somewhat more detailed, on the Lords shoulder as well.
>>
>>50493581
>>50498105
>>50498125
>>50498156
>>50498234
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/240539.page
>>
>>50498234
looks quite an undertaking to say the least

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRfeX4DERQw
>>
>>50497925

No, I know it looks terrible but those have just been sitting on a shelf for a while collecting dust while I finish the rest of the army. And the lighting is really bad.

I promise I only use sand on the bases!
>>
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>>50497925

Anon, c'mon
>>
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>>50498709
GLOVES ARE FOR THE WEAK REEE
>>
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>>50498806
>when you slip with the brush and don't notice until a year later

jesus christ.
>>
>>50498821
Trim your nails
>>
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>>50498806
>GLOVES ARE FOR THE WEAK

You don't say?
>>
>>50498105
Why not the canon Space Scots, the Storm Wardens?
>>
>>50497048
He's going to swing it down on some poor boot.
>>
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>>50498874
>>
>>50498311
Said that's what I've decided to do, not what I've done. I have hope, though.
>>
>>50498952
>summary execution: knife hand through the head
>>
>>50498936
I'm not after Scots. I'm more interested in Welsh and Irish.

More Gáe Bulg than Claymore. I'd also planned on having Dullahan inspired bikers, I just need some one-handed scythes. FWs are all two-handed sadly.
>>
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Anyone else enjoy painting blazed? Dude weed LMAO etc it's a bit difficult to get myself to sit down and work through a hundred orks so it's become a habit
>>
>>50499173

Whatever helps, I guess.
>>
>>50499173
Stop playing orks, you filthy degenerate, perhaps salamanders is more up your alley, or dark eldar...
>>
>>50499173
Just splatter 'em all with green and tell your opponents they get naked and cover themselves with green paint because it makes 'em more orky.

Also weed smells like skunk and I seriously hope you don't go out in public smelling of that shit.
>>
>>50499050
>Brythonic
>Not Goidelic
Shit taste desu fan. Just stick with Irish. Then you won't need Chapter Master Llywylfyyld
>>
>>50499173
I tried painting once while drunk.
Didn't get anything done and I figure you need all the fine motor control you have anyway and concentrate way too hard on not dunking your brush into your drink.

So I decided that was a dumb idea and blamed my drunkenness for its conception.
>>
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I asked this in the 40k general but they ignored me.

Would making the head dresses the thousand sons have look similar to pope hats be a retarded idea? Was thinking I could give them some templar order colours and make them a renegade crusading chapter. Might have to think of a good reason why they went renegade and why they worship tzeentch.
>>
>>50499739
Space Wales would be the comfiest planet in the Imperium.
>>
>>50499829
No idea for a custom army is retarded, all that matters is your ability to get the image in your head onto the models in question.
>>
>>50486513
Are there rules for having a spear and a shield?
>>
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>>50499829
>head dresses
>look similar to pope hats

Don't we already have those guys?
>>
>>50499868
Its not like thousand sons were uniquely the only egyptian looking guys either.
>>
>>50499853
>Are there rules for having a spear and a shield?

Currently, if you exchange your Guardian Spear for a Sentinel Blade (sword), you may have a storm shield, but who's to say what future roolz may allow?
>>
>>50499781
Painting while drunk doesnt work well out for me either, unless I'm just basecoating or sanding bases. A beer or two only works well thought, since I dont get drunk on that little.
>>
>>50498096
Mad Robot. I really like them, they're thinner and look nice and uniform, something the guard would tend to carry. Check out Victoria Lamb's meltas and plasma's too, they're nice and slim as well. I have about 15 of her meltas due to a mixup with my order and I gotta say they're pretty slick.

https://madrobotminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9_12

http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/las-rifle-x5

http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/fusion-guns-x5
>>
>>50499943
I honestly doubt it, but as long as you play with friends you should be ok I guess.
>>
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>>50499829
Sounds like you actually want to play Word Bearers, anon.
>>
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Just a little something I'm working on for my SS gift.

Well... the base anyway, anything more and it's kind of ruining the surprise.
>>
>>50499844
>No idea for a custom army is retarded

That's retarded. Of course there are retarded ideas, are you retarded?

So if I specifically set out to create the most retarded custom army I could, for the sole sake of being retarded and having a retarded army, your retarded ass would claim it's not retarded because it was done well? RETARD!
>>
>>50500197

meh, it's all subjective and opinions anyway, who cares.
>>
Let me get this right, I can run a 5 man tactical marine squad with a plasma cannon yeah?
>>
>>50499829
From a heraldic/design pov, no. People use pope heads as actual helmet crests around the 13th century when that was a thing.

Using Thousand Sons models for that and making them Tzeentchian, when they clearly would be much better suited for imperial zeal with that outfit?
I'm not gonna call it retarded, just seems counterintuitive.
All the imagery of the catholic church and biblical themes like archangels/primarchs are closely linked to the Imperium usually. I mean Horus is literally Lucifer, the favorite son that rebels.
Space Marines are not called Angels of Death for nothing.
>>
>>50500298
Oops, wrong thread.
>>
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this is my first completed painted model, its part of an inquisition warband acolytes, Any C&C ?
>>
>>50500438
>accordion folk music intensifies
>>
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>>50500298
>Let me get this right, I can run a 5 man tactical marine squad with a plasma cannon yeah?

Yep! Even Blood Angels have that option!
>>
>>50500468
is this good... or bad?
>>
>>50498560
Nice tutorial, but after finishing all that work, trying to glaze/wash would be nerve wracking.
>>
>>50500533
Squeezebox is always good.
>>
>>50500438
This is realy good for a first model! In my humble opinion (maybe it's the flash) you should make the skin a little bit darker, so the details pop up better with the enlightments

But that's a great first model
>>
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>>50500600
>Squeezebox

Why the fuck did I find this so funny.
>>
>>50498560
>>50500561
What that guy does is overly complicated.
For the tartan pattern he paint he could have just painted the whole cloth red, put a green grid with a thick line on it and then put a grid of thin white lines crossing on the red squares.
That's really all the detail you need at 28mm anyway, and if you are painting an entire army you don't want to spent too much time on each individual miniature anyway.
>>
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>>50500317
>>50500145
I guess I'll think of something else to make them unique. Thanks anons
>>
>>50500767
I didn't mean to say don't do it, just think enough about it to make it work.

Maybe a spiritual leader of a zealous chapter was corrupted and in turn corrupted the spiritual teachings of that chapter.
Slowly dripping poison into his disciples ears until became something completely different without even noticing it.

It CAN work, and if you want to do it you should, no matter what other people tell you, but if you want to take the feedback into account you've received other will be more likely to understand what your army is about.
>>
>>50500845
It' s not like im commited to that one idea. If I can think of better things then I'll likely go with them. I just personally don't care for the soulless aspect of the thousand sons and thats why I wanna make them different. All of this is great help
>>
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>>50491982
>hows your desk looking /wip/? sorry it thumbnailed on me
I finally started using the whiteboard for something other than nagging myself about paintjobs. Got a shitload of tiny ziplocks from Daiso for about three bucks, and a stack of shitter magnets for another five. Sorted out all my sculpting and casting projects, as well as going into my loose minis bins and getting them all bagged and swapped into better storage.
>>
>>50498709
Not using your fingers / finger nails to keep the appropriate amount of your brush and not giving a fuck.

Latex gloves?

Anon, c'mon.
>>
>>50501877

>latex
>>
>>50499173
Smoking weed is great for painting bulk orks.
>>
>>50499943
>Sunlight gleams from burnished gold as the Custodian Guard stride from the choking fug of war

Damn Custodes always using the fug of war to their advantage.
>>
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Hi all, colourblind DE anon here. Back with my repaint of my old sisters army.
I'm trying to make a stencil of small fleur-de-lis to airbrush over the hulls of the vehicles, faded out towards the top. However. It's really hard to cut them out without fucking it up. Is there a better way?

And to the Secret Santa guy in Tenerife, I'm sending your package tomorrow.
>>
>>50502054
I looked up a few things and found this, doubt it is the right size though, but yere goes:

https://www.amazon.com/Martha-Stewart-Crafts-Punch-Medium/dp/B002YIV0M8
>>
>>50484663
Anon Grimm in Washington, I've got your stuff set aside I've just got to loot a box from work to ship it in. To make up for the slight wait is there anything in particular you need tool wise or a particular army you play?
>>
>>50502152
I saw this exact one in my initial hunt before doing it in paper, but it cuts out 1 1/8" size. Would be great if it was ~5mm or so.
>>
>>50502054
>It's really hard to cut them out without fucking it up. Is there a better way?
could go to a store that does outdoors advertisement and stuff like that. The guys that do foils you put on windows in shops.
They'll have a plotter, i.e. a machine that uses the vector of a vector image and moves a tiny blade along it's path.
I imagine you could get some decent results that way.
If you have your stencils made on foil you could transfer them onto the vehicle and warp it all around.

Not sure how viable that is in reality, but ever since I worked in a place like that for a little while I've been wondering if that could have been useful hobby tool.

I realize that is probably overkill.

If you have a look around in arts and crafts stores and places that carry scrap booking goods you might find some stickers or something like that. You'd just have to paint the gradient first, then apply the fleur de lys pattern and then do the main coat.
>>
>>50502152
>>50502173
Thank you though! Didn't say it in the previous post.
>>
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Excuse my messy desk.
Been working on some scenery, gonna paint it up as lava to match my current army. I havent stuck down the bridge i'm making it so its detachable incase I just need a large blocking bit of scenery or dangerous terrain.
>>
>>50502187
You know, I actually live around the corner from a place that makes those (As well as a model train shop so I'll ask the bloke who runs that too). If that works it'd be great since I have 9 Repressors, 7 Immolators and 3 Exorcists to redo, and I don't fancy cutting out a paper sheet each time.
>>
Any suggestions on what I could use for a big fancy relic Power Spear?
>>
>>50502224
My dick is now diamonds.

Is it gonna have a swamp theme? Like with overgrowth and vines hanging from the tower?/spoiler]
>>
>>50502224
Is that a wooden bridge above lava? Wouldn't the thing burst into flames
>>
>>50486064
oh no I missed a /wip/ secret santa?!
>>
>>50501827
cozy/10
>>
>>50497211
I know a Drill Sergeant. Can confirm there are no survivors of the fabled "head side knife hand"
>>50493223
when you paint him, add a slightly red tinge to his cheeks and neck to make him look even angrier
>>
>>50502224
that's really fucking cool
>>
>>50502280
Uhh magic wood. The particular trees that grow in this blasted hellscape are resistance to heat.
>>
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>>50502271
found this on a bitsordering page

Reaper has a whole lot of weapon sprues. maybe something tickles your fancy.
http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/weapons

Anvil have a bunch of weapons with interchangable tops
http://anvilindustry.co.uk/The-Armoury/Close-Combat-Weapons

Puppetswar too
https://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=90
>>
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Working on this power kale is driving me nuts. Should I just scrap it and replace it with a chainsaw or guns?
>>
>>50502459
>power kale
and now we know why orks are green.
You kind of need a 'thumb' on it for it to look like it could work.
Other than that it's okay imo.
>>
>>50502487
I had a thumb section, but I ended up cutting it off since it about doubled the height of the whole attachment.
>>
>>50502286

you did, although I currently have 2 on the go now, happy to make it 3 if you want to get in, don't want anyone to miss out!
>>
>>50502454
Those Anvil industry scythes look pretty good. The arms are weird though.
>>
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purple marine anon here, i'm putting together a command squad to go with my commander, they will make nice passengers for my mk2 land raider

in the background is my death company, i managed to avoid all the bits with the grail icon and i'm going to paint the bloodrops a jade/sea blueish colour like tears of the saint or something. i like blood angels without blood angels. i forgot to drill their barrels before priming them, but when that's corrected they aer ready for paint

i'm very busy at work atm, the upside is i have enough money to buy most of the boxes/bits i need in one go so i don't have to wait for/scrounge on parts. on the downside i have not much hobby time so i can only build a few marines per week.

sorry for pateto pic, will make better pics when some more interesting progres is made
>>
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Repostan from /HHG/ because you are the people to ask about this stuff.
Anons, I was just talking with a friend about Baneblades and he gave me an idea.

What if I made it a DarkMech variant of Yarrick's Fortress of Arrogance, but for Scoria?

So take a Baneblade, mount the Hellhammer turret but shave the top off and kit it out as a pimp throne above all others. Obviously Admech it up a bunch, and have the Xana logo in full on the side. Maybe houserule it as a Hellhammer that can transport Scoria and the Homunculex specially for maybe 50 extra points?

Also, how would you make it look extra badass because this is going to be a really cool centrepiece if I can pull it off.
Of course mount Admech sponsons and iconography, but anything else cool you can think of?
>>
Noob question. On my book work a tutorial suggested to base in mephiston Red, then layer wazdakka followed by evil sunz. What is this 3 layers of paint actually achieving? Should I be showing a little bit through of each layer?
>>
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>>50502487
How does this one look?
>>
>>50503018
Indeed. Layering helps having a fairly smooth transition by having several colours, say, from red to white on flames for examples. You go red, orange, yellow, white, instead of red and white and if your coats are thin enough and applied well, you'll have a good transition.
>>
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>>50503018
I think this pic shows layering pretty well.

Basically what you're doing is painting one layer, letting it dry, and painting the next layer so it shows 50% of the layer underneath it, repeated until you reach your final highlight.
>>
>>50502610
shoot me an email
>>
Hey there /tg/ I'm kind of new at painting and was wondering if there were a way to paint Black Templars with a blue tint, similar to how Marvel's Venom would sometimes be drawn with blue highlights as opposed to white or grey. I remember reading somewhere here that there was a specific way to do it but I've long forgotten it.
>>
>>50503423
You'll wanna pick up a color similar to this. It's a P3 paint done by Privateer Press, called Coal Black.

Basically you want a nice dark turquoise color and a lighter turqouise color.
>>
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>>50503506
Turns out like such.
>>
>>50503566
Thanks I'll try it out
>>
>>50503337

sent
>>
>>50503506
>>50503566
that's green, not blue

>>50503423
you basically use blues to highlight black. Or you can use a blue wash over your highlighted black.

If you are going for an old timey comic book look on your miniatures you'll also have to paint the highlights a bit differently.
You can google around or use the wayback machine to find the old black gobbo article on painting black. That went into quite a bit of detail about that.
>>
>>50502054
these guys sell one

http://www.fallouthobbies.com/stencils/
>>
>>50503423

Look up feathering and black armor. You basically take a dark blue, water it down till its see through, then do gradual gradient layers of it.
>>
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i deed it
>>
>>50504855
looks alright. I feel like those tusks could use a lighter highlight.
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I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


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