WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

If I want to "glue" a detail to a model temporarily, just to see how it looks, only to detach it without consequences or effort afterwards, how do I do it?

I'm trying to learn how to convert stuff and checking how next detail would look on a model from a distance is a must.

>>50463196
Blu-tac

>>50463201
Is it easy to remove?

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Sorry for the constant spam, but this is the last post with my shitty pic.

I'll send out the matches during the night, so if you want to join then today is your last chance.

>>50463257
Have you ever seen/touched blu tac before?
Yes it is very easy to remove

>>50463257

Blu tac is just some kind of poster putty. its super easy to remove and won't leave any marks.

>>50463366
>>50463384
Never tried it and I have no idea what is it. Thanks for a hint anons, I'll take it from here, time to google.

>>50463366
so weird to me that so many people dont know what blu-tac is

is it not popular in America or something?

>>50463324

Good Lad.

To the anon with the diy skyshield in the last thread:
It really depends on what you are going for. If it is just a generic landing pad, give it a rim, maybe with lights and add gubbins like a fuel drum and hose, some tools etc. Its looking pretty good so far tho.

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I recently picked up a few models from a friend who had no use for some space wolves. I reckon I've done alright, but I want to write his name on one of the parchments.

Any tips on how I should do that, and which parchment would look best? (Right pauldron or chest)

Does anyone know a good guide for painting orange armor? I want to paint my BB orcs orange but haven't really ever painted orange before.
>>50463533
Get one of those fine tipped gundam markers.

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Looking for opinions on basing, attached are 2 preliminary shapes using sculpey and a texture roller.
Left style sits over the taper and from the top you cannot see the base at all
Right style is cut at the same taper angle as the base.
Opinions on what would look best or what could be improved on?

>>50463533

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNI-BALL-PIN-BLACK-0-05mm/dp/B00A7BSEKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=officeproduct&ie=UTF8&qid=1480506860&sr=1-1&keywords=0.05+pen

>>50463605

How about Tau Sept Orange?

XV-88 - Base
Tau Light Ochre - Layer
Agrax - all over wash
Ungor Flesh - Highlight

As demonstrated by former WarhammerTV employee Emma

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diSho6SVa94&list=PL3lM6q3XSpms-TJ_KfVt6RkBHM0yO-F8M&index=86

>>50463324

I've got some basic goodies for my person (whomever that may be)

I'm also converting and painting a silly little something to include and will be painting that this weekend after I head to my LGS and buy something else. The plan is to ship out no later than 7th December

>>50463401
We have it, but not by that brand. When I hear people refer to it here, it's poster tack (or sometimes sticky tack).

>>50463821
>>50463605
> former WarhammerTV employee Emma
F

I use Flayed One Flesh instead of Ungor flesh for the highlights but it's a good guide.

>>50464034

Yes, my other half is a Seppo and she just says "tack" / "It's tacked to the fridge" / "stop fucking tacking things onto the bare wall"

>>50441248
Moving away from GW because they stopped doing WHFB and my army is more or less complete (I only lack something like 2 kits I'm not interested in). I'm going to start something new, probably a nice historical army, but I'm torn between different ancient factions or an italian Renaissance one.

So I have a broken NECA blue Warrior Alien (/toy/ poster here, pls no bully) and I'm thinking of using its mortal remains as conversion fodder. Now most of the body will make excellent 'Nid bitz (I'm thinking of using the majority of it, with lots of extra bitz and sculptwork of course, to build a cheap Dimachaeron or Dominatrix) but some of the parts, particularly the head and back pieces, look like they'd make for good parts for my Slaanesh CSM/Daemon forces. Anyone got any other ideas for what to do with him?

(FWIW most of the body is intact but the neck joint is irreparably broken. I did think about making him into a 1:12 scale Genestealer but keeping it articulated might be a tad ambitious.)

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Who /Darkest Dungeon/ here?

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>>50465047
Holy shit, did you do those anon?

>>50463612

I prefer right, desu

>>50465047
Anon, where did you get, plz

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I did these in the time off I had for thanks giving. I think they came out nifty.

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>>50465139
here is the other side. They are split purple and green down the middle.

>>50465064
Sauce?

So usually I prime my necrons black, base them in Leadbelcher and then smother them in army painter darktone.
I noticed that army painter do colour primers including a gun metal one. Should I just use that and basically replace the first two processes? Anyone got any experience with this?

>>50465501
No. Colour primers are usually not as good as the normal black/white primers. I'd still prime black first.

>>50465548
What about if I use lead belcher spray over a prime black model?

>>50465139
>>50465148
This is why i want to start airbrushing
If this is somehow not airbrushed i am in awe

>>50465501
>>50465548
There is no reason to not use a spray to speed up your process though.

Not sure if the two colors match though.
The Army Painter spray might be a little lighter.

>>50465569
That's fine. I frequently do that.

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Nurgle DP WIP

I really need a new phone/camera.

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>>50465501
Spray Base colour is awesome.

Here are my necrons using that technique.

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>>50465501
>>50465622

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>>50465622
>>50465633
>>50465501

>>50465605
Jesus Christ that grin
Keep us or at least me updated

>>50465622
What's your exact process and tools if you don't mind me asking.
They look very similar to mine, so this is promising.

>>50465649

Spray Army Painter Gun Metal
Wash 3/4 Nuln oil - 1/4 Agrax mix
Rust Pigment to one's own preference
Edgelight stormhost silver sparingly

This entire army took like ... 2 weeks

>>50459489

I just blu-tack these fuckers to my table

>>50465701
That's exactly what I had in my head.
Except I'll replace nuln with army painter strong tone. But it seems to give the desired effect. Thanks anon. I'm gonna give this a go.

>>50463324
I've got an email coming your way, just need to sit down after work so I can read the email off the image. What's the current count?

>>50466379
WIP-secret-santa-2016 AT yandex DOT com

Haven't count since last time, but we should get close to 50 participants.

Help WIP im terrible and have no idea how to paint a good loincloth for my warhammer Deldar army.

no matter what colours i use it comes out flat and boring, even with a wash. How do you paint a good cloth?

>>50466529
You could try a leather-ish effect by dabbling paint instead of regularly painting it on.

>>50465548
Why are the colour primers inferior?

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Anyone got nice color scheme ideas for krieg? Including the vehicles that will complement the infantry. I dont want to screw this up and start over because i didnt like the scheme.

>>50466529
Rakarth flesh
Seraphim Sepia/Agrax Earthshade/Reikland Fleshshade wash
Drybrush Rakarth Flesh
Light Drybrush/highlight Rakarth Flesh+Pallid Wych Flesh mixes until you're happy.

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>>50465047
Come on, don't just leave us hanging.
>>50465267
I googled it because I saw it before, first result back from reverse image search is from Reddit.

>>50463324
just resent mine, I didn't get a confirmation email so I wasn't sure if it was received.

>>50465139
>>50465148
truly amazing

>>50465605
this is going in a really great fucked up direction

>>50465622
>>50465633
>>50465639
love that color scheme

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Working on some 'ard boyz, what do you think about this pose WIP?

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>>50463324
How do you feel about paints and brushes as a gift?
I suck at making presents

>>50467719
I know what you were trying to do but it doesn't quite look natural.
Maybe look at some video footage of somebody throwing something and freeze frame the moment you are trying to portrait here.
The torso needs to be twisted just like the right leg to make it seem more natural.

That said, I knew instantly what he was doing so it's definitely working.
Just saying it could look a bit more natural.

>>50467441
You the guy from Canada? I got your address the first time and also did confirm it. I send you a 2nd confirmation. Let me know if you got it this time.

>>50467802
Its certainly /WIP/-related, so why not.
Besides, its not up to me to judge your present Anon.

>>50467719
I like it, but as the other anon said it doesn't look like he's throwing it naturally really. Kinda get the impression the grenade weighs a ton and he's almost falling over from it. Orks tho

>>50467719
maybe if the head was more looking toward where he's throwing somehow

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Tried to rescue this rhino i made with 12 years but it didnt turn out well. Would you field him or discard him as terrain?

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My camera is actually a cleverly disguised potato.

It only took three months to work up the will, but I done did my Tanks starter kit finally.

>>50467879
I mean, some shading and additional colors for contrast would make him a lot better. The textured paint job is odd but you wont notice it so much on a game board. If you're bothered by the gaps then you can use green stuff to fix. Or even disassemble/reassemble if you used super glue and not plastic cement.

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>>50467879
>Tried to rescue this rhino i made with 12 years but it didnt turn out well. Would you field him or discard him as terrain?

Is this photo pre- or post-rescue effort? If you haven't tried yet, maybe you could scrub that stuff off with non-acetone nail polish remover and return it to service.

>Do not waste what The Emperor provides!

>>50467939
Does that mini not have primer, though? You can see the gray through the chips on the first.

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>>50467970
>Does that mini not have primer, though? You can see the gray through the chips on the first.

It might, but for less than two dollars, I can get enough non-acetone nail polish remover from Walmart to easily do the whole Rhino. Wouldn't that be worth it just to see before administering The Emperor's Peace?

>>50467939
Post rescue. I fucked up with the non acetone part, thats is the "corrosion" you can see in the lowest part. The gaps still exist because 12 years old me used the fuckin best glue in the world at the time. Please notice how thick the marine is and how a part of the tracks is from a leman russ.

>>50467837
I got it, thank you! I don't know what was up with the last one, but I never got a confirmation.

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Onward with the bloodclaws next or might break it up with the gunship.

>>50468697
Everything bar the eyes is good, and as is always the case, the bad eyes ruin everything. An easy fix, just go above and below them with some of the flesh colour. As it is now, you've painted the eyesockets as well - the clearest example of this is the guy on the far right. Huge, crazy crossed eyes. Other than that, they look good. Hair on second from left could do with some highlights as it's a little flat but everything else looks very neat and crisp.

I'm about to order some 40k stuff and paint, want to get into miniature painting.

I just read that Citadel paints have short longevity? Like they go dry after three days? Is this right? Are Vallejo better?

Need some advice guys. Anyone got any suggestions on how to scratchbuild a round Fellblade-esque turret or know anywhere I can buy one?
Pred sized bubble turrets turned out to be super easy, but I have no idea where to start with this one

>>50469452
I'm a noob too so don't trust me too much, but three days would be insane. AFAIK they dry faster than some other brands, but "faster" is really relative. Months or years more like.

You'd be fine with citadel paints. Or do you mean drying on a pallet? Unless you use a wet pallet theyll dry pretty quickly then

>>50469600
I meant, after opening a pot from fresh?

>>50469452
If you don't close the cap of the paint properly, it will do this, as will pretty much any brand of paint, beause you let the lid off of it. But normally no, this will not happen.

As for paint quality, there isn't really a wide consensus. There are preofessional painters who use Vallejo, Reaper, P3, Citadel, War Color, and more. Really it has taken those people years to figure out what they *like* best. A red from vallejo, a metallic from citadel, a purple from war color. For starting out, any range of paints aimed at gaming will do you, citadel being one of them. My advice: If you can get citadel at your LGS, get citadel. If you can get vallejo, try those too. Stick with one brand for starting out, because their paints will behave consistently, which let's you focus on technique. Vallejo and Citadel paints don't quite thin the same, and trying to figure out how to thin with a bunch of different paint lines will be a bitch.

>>50469656
Again, unless you fail to close the lid, this shouldn't happen. Make sure you shake your paints before use, thin them down on a pallet, and always get a nice, fien tip on ya brush. So sayeth our lord, Duncan.

>>50469656
If you leave it open maybe otherwise no.

>>50469656
No in the pot they'll last much much longer than three days then, months/years.

Even years from now if your pots have dried up you could probably restore them, but not sure how that affects the its properties. That's a problem you won't have for quite a while though.

>>50469452
They are somewhat more prone to drying out, it's important that you make sure pots are properly closed before putting them away for storage.
Dropper bottles seal better by default, so in that sense those are superior, but GW paints don't self-destruct so quickly as to be useless.
Just don't leave them sitting open for days on end.

>>50468791
Admittedly eyes for me a bit of a lottery.

>>50469690
Thanks for the advice.
>>50469696
>>50469699
>>50469704
Cheers.
I may go for Vallejo as it seems cheaper to get a big paint set. Now Game or Model colour, I assume the difference is colour vibrancy?

>>50469767
Again, you might get a better answer from someone else, but as far as I know Game would be more vibrant and "video-gamey".
You might like those better and could use them then, since it's all about preference anyway

>>50469767
Model more realistic tones yeah.

>>50469767
>I may go for Vallejo as it seems cheaper to get a big paint set. Now Game or Model colour, I assume the difference is colour vibrancy?
Pretty much.

Model Colour is all about "realistic" tones for military modelling.
Game Colour is all about colours that pop for miniature gaming.

>shaked my shade bottle while the lid was still open

JUST

>>50469452
They live long. I made them work again after like 5 years of non-useage in my drawer.

But Vallejo offers a couple of advantages:
>cheaper
>bigger bottles (17ml compared to 12ml) still cheaper actually.
>dropper bottles
>proper airbrush paint is available (if you like pre-thinned paint)
>awesome metallics

>>50469862
>>50469767
Sometimes just the name is the difference. A green might be called "soviet green" in the model range and "snake scale green" in the game range. (i made these names up.. but you get the idea).

Some colors are exclusive to their specific range though. There are not so much military purples or oranges for example.

I recommend buying the "Air" version of the paint actually. It won't cost more but the paint has way smaller pigments and usually covers better compared to the non-air version (which isn't bad by any means though).

If you get metallics, defintively get the Air! These are way better than the non-air metallics.

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Has anyone tried these for Space Marines, do they look right?

>>50467719
I think it looks off due to the left leg's position in the air. If you could alter that leg slightly it would fix it.

>>50469958
Never bought them myself but I heard a few guys over on the B&C say they tend to be too big.

Best way to find out would be to google for conversions using the product you are interested in I guess.

>>50470600
Why not send an email?

What the fuck, anon?

>>50470634
I have no words for this. It's posted every thread, your the kind of person to pull on a push door and double down by pulling harder rather than check for a sign

How do we fa/tg/uys feel about Army Painter Quick Shades? I'm relatively new to the hobby and found I was much happier with my minis after throwing on some Nuln Oil Gloss. Looking for similar easy shading, just trying to get things tabletop quality.

>>50467719
Reminds me of an orangutan which looks perfect for Orks.

>>50469827
>>50469833
>>50469862
Thanks

>>50469877
Cool, cheers.

>>50469924
Thanks

>>50470634
Anon, the pic is in the thread.
The email in its written form is in the thread as well.

Write a mail and you will be in. Closing time is in around 2 hours.

>>50470694
I usually answer every question i see if they are in regards of the SS. If i missed yours, it might be because you asked while i was sleeping.

>>50470682
Largely depends on what army you are playing, some factions look great with quick shade, like Nurgle and Tyranid armies, others like Space marines or Tau who have less organic shapes will look rather meh.

>>50470728
Cheers man, i guess i had awful timing. Thank you!

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Work continues on ork guntank. Side skirt look alright? Can't exactly cover tracks due to the necessity to take it apart later.

>>50470682
The quick shades can't be compared with regular washes.

They are a mixture between wash and varnish and actually don't alter the color of the paint whereas a brown wash (like agrax for example) would darken the color down a bit, the quickshade (if you wipe it off the high parts of the mini) will only go to the recesses.

Being half-varnish it will add a shine to your minis. This can work at some (like zombies maybe) but usually you want to spray some anti-shine/matte varnish over them.

It also has a extremely long drying time.

Here is how it works:
>paint your mini
>"dip" (its easier to actually brush it on) your mini
>let the mini rest for a little while so the quickshade starts to pool at some places like the feet etc (during that time you can "dip" a couple more minis)
>then you take a brush and some odourless thinner and use it to brush away the pooled quickshade and lightly brush over the highest points of the mini to get your original color back

Done. (or you can start highlighting at this point).

And don't forget to spray a matte varnish afterwards. (remember the long (a few days actually) drying time.

The stuff isn't bad, but it does take some more effort than you might think to make it look good.
Ofc you can go paint -> dip -> shake mini -> done but then it'll look bad.

>>50465047
senpai pls

What's the best non-hobby specific black primer that I can get away with using? I've been using Citadel Chaos Black but it's like twenty a can. Am I stuck with this, or can I go cheaper?

>>50470932
Krylon Sandable Black primer? Providing you're in the US that stuff is like $5 a can and probably some of the best primer around.

>>50470932
You can always go cheaper than Citadel prices.

Army Painter spray cans are really good and kinda cheap.
Vallejo has spray primers too, should be around the AP pricetag.

Non-hobby.. depending on your location there might be various primers. Just check your local hardware store and ask for primer that can be used on plastic.

>>50470932
Another vote for Krylon.

What's a good Vallejo equivalent for PP Greatcoat Grey (concrete grey with a barely noticeable blue tone)?

The comparison charts are worthless and think that mid-tone olive green is close enough, WTF.

>>50470932
If you're in the UK halfords matte-black works pretty good

>>50471132
These are blues:

http://www.vallejo-farben.de/vallejo-model-color/045-070-blautoene/


These are greys:

http://www.vallejo-farben.de/vallejo-model-color/151-170-grautoene-schwarz/


From what you describe, maybe Blackblue?
http://www.vallejo-farben.de/vallejo-model-color/045-070-blautoene/vallejo-model-color-048-schwarzblau-dark-sea-blue-17-ml-898-VA048-i.html

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>>50470932
>What's the best non-hobby specific black primer that I can get away with using? I've been using Citadel Chaos Black but it's like twenty a can. Am I stuck with this, or can I go cheaper?

You might try this stuff - Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2x Primer. The white worked well for me, but I was concerned that the black had obscured some detail. Then again, the model I was painting is 25 years old and made of pewter, so it's not going to have the kind of definition you'd expect out of 21-st century resin or plastic.

>>50471205
Thanks for the link. Blackblue is too dark but Basalt Grey or Dark Blue Gray should be close enough.

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Is this the right stuff or did I fuck up?

>>50471317
It's certainly a liquid mask, and since it's designed for water colour it should be fine when exposed to acrylic paints (which are also water based), so it should do it's job.

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Just bought a matte varnish primer, should i also get a shiny varnish to spray on as a first layer, before i do the second?

The aim of this is to create a lasting protection that works better than Purity Seal.

>>50470932
Chaos Black XL.

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>>50471317
>Is this the right stuff or did I fuck up?

I think you'll be good, m8.

How the fuck do people settle on a color scheme for their army? I'm going out of my mind changing it back and forth

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Can anyone tell me how to keep my water effects from spilling over the edge of the bases?
I thought I'd sealed the little holes for the puddles pretty well, but they leaked through various cracks and down the side of the base, making a huge fucking mess.

Be gentle, I've only worked with water effects a couple times before and I was cheating because privateer bases have a cool lip.

>>50471843
masking tape

>>50471835
Magic.

In all seriousness, I'm not sure. My 'nids only became finalized after much dicking about. I picked Emperor's Children for my CSM so I had an existing scheme to work with, and my Daemons don't have a "set" colour scheme- each unit is going to be painted with a different scheme, as something of a homage to the armies of old in riotous, garish colours.

>>50468791
re-did 'em. I'm still shit at pupils but the whites are diminished.

>>50471861
Well now I feel stupid.

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>>50471900
whoops

>>50471896
Guess I should just go down to my LGS and try some shit. Won't ever figure this out without seeing it for real

>>50471905
the obvious solutions are sometimes the most difficult to think of

>>50464049
Did she really get fired?

>>50471946
There are some templates you can download and color in paint. It could help you get the ball rolling before you paint and strip models

>>50472049
She quit i think.

But seeing how she acts in her stream i wouldn't be surprised if they kicked her out. Such an arrogant bitch.

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>>50471908
better photo

>Going through your SD card on your phone and you find those old before-pictures you need for your after-pictures

>>50472091
Try to get some eyelids on them

>>50472049

She tried to eat Jervis. This could not stand.

>>50472049
She wasn't 'fired', her position was made redundant. Thankfully.

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>>50472091
might be better if theres a black eyeline.

>>50472208
Well, technically its kinda the same thing.

>>50472091
Shoutouts to my boy Bubba Fenris, he finna purge the heretics and bus a nut inside the wenches back on Valhalla

>>50472049

She was made Redundant (laid off) by her and Duncans new boss on his first day on the job.

Which means she was surplus to requirements and was not given a reason.

Source: herself

>>50472079
I haven't bothered to watch her stream, I never really cared for her videos. Her voice is rather grating.

It doesn't surprise me she's a right bitch on twitch.

>>50469877
>>50469704
>>50469924

As a person who has thus far only used Citadel paints, I really should try Vallejo at some point apparently.

>>50472255
>ugly
>arrogant
>can't paint
>shitty voice

And yet people donate like crazy in their stream. I hate women.

>>50472221
maybe next time, calling time.

>>50472305
Oh god really? Maybe I should watch it for the lulz

>>50472290
Just replace some empty colors with vallejo, or get a cheap starter set. Never hurts to look outside the known borders.

>>50472317
She is a women.
She paints minis
She is the only women in the "figurines" section

How do I get a nice, Soul Drinker's style purple?

>>50472290
if Citadel switched to dropper bottles I probably wouldn't give a shit but I really fucking hate pots by now.

>>50472353
Just switch them yourself, it takes zero effort.

>>50472321
Might grab a cheap starter set. Experimentation never hurts indeed. I am fairly shit at painting though.

>>50472380
How'd you do it, syringes?

>>50472290
To be fair there's not a whole lot you're missing out on other than better value for money.

>>50472408
just pour them in, you lose a little bit of paint though, use a funnel if you're worried

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Anyone mind helping me identify this color? The kinda charcoaly blue but not really deep blue somehow. Black-blue?

The model looks crimson fisty so I assumed Kantor blue, but I'm not sure, cause the model doesn't feel as pure blue.

Am I being tricked by highlights/lighting?

>>50472416
This.

The metallics are great though.
Besides that, both paint ranges are good and can be used without problems. Some color here and there might be better from a different company, but overall all the big players in the paint business can be bought without a 2nd thought.
GW/citadel just happens the one who is the most expensive (its just a couple of cents per pot, but it sums up over time) and their pots are kinda shit. The Paint itself is fine and their washes are really good. (Nothing wrong with Vallejo washes though).

One thing lets you save a ton of money though:
Texture paint! GW sells it in their "big" 28ml pots for $7,50.
Vallejo sells it in huge 200 (!!) ml jars for $9,50

If you use that stuff alot on bases, NEVER buy citadel!

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>>50472228
I'd wager her being made redundant was when GW set up the new warhammer community team. Which probably was a reshuffling/expansion of the warhammerTV people.

and since they've been putting out hilarious shit, I'm pretty okay with that

>>50463388

There's also white poster putty called "uhu", I use both, the white is a lot more sticky (I use it to fix figures to a stick by their bases when priming), but is somewhat more difficult to get off. If you leave it on too long, you need to use a bigger piece of it to get all the remnants off.

The blue stuff, on the other hand, tends to get "cold" and needs to be "warmed" up by squishing it around (kind of like sculpy or green stuff) before it will stick, especially in winter. It also seems to get less sticky with age, which uhu doesn't, and is less reusable.

>>50467879
Use isopropyl alcohol. It will strip it down to the plastic in a matter of mintes. The only thing it might hurt is resin, but that's only if it sits in it for days.

First time doing the /wip/ secret santa. Without a list of interests given, what the hell do you give someone that's WIP related and not totally useless?

>>50472880
paint, terrain building items, weathering powders, brushes, idk.

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Wow, it took me almost an hour to send out all the mails.

Every participant should have a mail with an address by now.

>>50472880
Use your imagination Anon. You probably have a huge bits box with tons of unused stuff from older projects. And if everything fails: everyone likes space marines

>>50468697
>>50468791
>>50471908
>>50472091

Old-school trick for eyes, don't paint pupils at all. Paint the eyes black (or a really dark brown like rhinox+abaddon 50/50) and paint off-white (Ushabti bone? Ulthuan Grey? Something that is almost white) dots into the corners of the eyes, with a toothpick if necessary.

Googly eyes almost always derive from the difficulty of trying to paint a large enough black spot without getting it on the face, which results in it being too small and/or way off center

>>50472880
I'm not doing the secret santa myself (missed the deadline due to work) but speaking personally I'd be happy with anything really. Even if I got bits or a kit to an army or game I don't play I'd still be happy that someone thought to get something for me when I'm a complete stranger.

>>50472610
Sauce on that, anon? This new mohawk guy is funny as fuck, I must see what that is.

>>50472954

>ven if I got bits or a kit to an army or game I don't play

Actually, this would be my desired outcome. To get something i don't already have to maybe inspire me to get a new army or try something new.

>>50472930
>>50472921
>>50472954

fair enough. I guess I'm just terrified they won't like it.

>>50472228

Maybe because she was a mouth-breather who was terrible at painting and talking simultaneously, took 10x longer to paint things than Dunc, and didn't end up with as good results at the end of all that weezing

>>50472997
Oh come on. Just put some stuff in a box, write a nice letter or christmas card and whats not to like about it..

>>50472969
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMfVdMrJAxs

it's about as good as the image implies

>>50473004
Pretty sure her version of the story sounds a bit different :3

>>50473028
Fucking hell, Roundtree is making GW based on a level I can't handle.

>>50473028
>start video
>that first second
>that pause and preparation

He'll never be as good as based Duncan

>>50473116
I think the stilted presentation is part of what they do with him, like in the Chaos Black XL video.

>>50472353

Citadel's newest pots are absolute shit desu senpai. I can't figure out how to keep paint from leaking out the back by the hinge if I try to just open it and set it on the table to get some out with my brush, it ends up spurting everywhere when I close it so now there's a thick crust of paint over the rear 2/3rds of the cap joint.

So I have to open it really slowly with two hands and pull the bottle back so that the cap stays at a 45-degree angle, quickly grab some paint, shut it as fast as possible, and then breathe a sigh of relief if no new paint sprayed out.

I would just not give af if the damn things didn't cost liek $6 a piece

>>50473172
They're keeping his little flaws in so he knows hes not our blessed tutor

>>50473028

these GW-approved memes are cringey but i like them anyway

>>50473227
I haven't encountered this with anything I bought recently, weird. If you're getting paint on the sealing surface of the lid, it will splash out though.

>>50473227
Maybe not as hellish as you describe but I've had issues with the hinge on a few pots yeah.

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>>50471242
I use the RO painter's black exclusively on my dark eldar and have not experienced loss of detail, YMMV

>>50471861
>>50471905
alternate take: painter's tape (3m or the like) is a little more reliable with containing liquids and semiliquids

>>50473335
lovely

>>50472498
I think maybe you're being tricked. It looks like its been dark-washed a couple times and then highlighted back up, so determining the exact color could be tough.

>>50473385
painters tape is masking tape

>>50471835
I just looked up "(my faction) colour schemes" and went through that. I found what I liked and built from that, I started with "bone and metal" and ended up "art deco ceramics"

>>50473227
I have this problem with the pots right before the newest ones. To check in store, I look to see if they have the odd little rectangular nubbly at the rear of the hinge. If yes its the newest design and they dont seem to do this (for me) as much

>>50471640
a rather sharp odour if I do say so myself

>>50473455
but not all masking tape is painter's tape

>>50471835
I guess it depends on the army really. Like, Orks are a no-brainer for example, while most Marines can be tough if you're not picking a stock chapter/legion/warband.

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Really enjoying painting this Valdor, can't wait till I'm properly at the weathering stage.

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>>50473303
>>50473319
>>50473492

When I first got them I would chip away the paint with an xacto but it just kept coming back so I gave up
Send help

>>50473561
Damn nice work anon, but is that flamer the guy's manning drooping a bit?

>>50473597
You made me go and take a closer look at the actual model, and I can confirm that it's an optical illusion. The actual flamer is straight.

>>50463821
>>50464049
Thanks, but that orange not bright enough for a Blood Bowl team.

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>>50473590
Buy these, decant your paint:

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Dropper-dropping-Bottles-Removable/dp/B00V479TVE/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1480555356&sr=8-4&keywords=dropper%2Bbottles&th=1

>>50473447
Alright thanks mayne

>>50473682

I will give that a shot, thanks

>>50473028
the cringey memes make up for Thousand Sons' release being lacklustre

How is Duncan so based:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KL4-bX4t20w

Also, Rubric marines tutorial:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HOLM7dXiyk

>>50474027
wonder what he'd make of the cult-like following he's garnered here

>>50474150
He would be proud of his sons as they take his teachings to heart

>>50474238
truly he's given us words to live by

>>50472930
Ooooh I got a Canadian. Exotic.

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>>50463155

Damn the expense and the shitty rules, is anyone else as excited as I am for Thousand Sons on Saturday?

>>50474585
I'm excited that they're paying attention to chaos in 40k - I'm excited that the sculpts arent shit - I'm mostly majorly bummed they're doing plastic primarchs. Keep that shit in 30k

Does GW still sell Valkia the Bloody in stores?

>>50474027
I fucking hate that flying base priming video. It potentially damages the model and can be done better with blu-tack instead of super glue.

>>50474657

How is having a plastic mini of a Daemon Primarch any different than having any other named Daemon at the head of your army?

>>50474657
keep that shit in epic, you mean

40k's not the right scale for that shit

>>50474760
It's just fantasy over again
>Look at this epic model to lead your forces to victory!!!!!!!!!
>Now look at this one!!!!
>Ahhhh shit another one?!! ANOTHER ONE!!!!!

>>50474794
Well, it's already in 40k but I've been staunchly ignoring it since they tried to hawk a plastic baneblade on us.

Centerpieces are all well and good, but are shit in most games for a variety of reasons. Sad thing is they're all shit in apocalypse too, because no one wants to take the hordes of basic shit they'd shine against in apocalypse. So all those impressive centerpieces get nuked by whatever titan decides to look their way or blow up in their general vicinity.

>>50474585
I just want EC

Say I have $200 to spend on an airbrush and compressor. What do I buy?

>>50474704
It's mostly a narrative complaint, I guess. I dislike the whole upping-the-ante-powerlevels shit, and I REALLY dislike all the Black Library fluff and background on the legions and primarchs, it's just tasteless, stupid, and ugly (in a way that feels unfun and uninteresting, distinct from the tasteless, stupid, and ugly "classic" bare bones 40k fluff, which manages to be fun and interesting)

>>50474937
an airbrush and a compressor I suppose.

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So pic related is the first miniature i painted in like 12 years. It was fairly simple since It didn't need much detail work except maybe the head gem which I highlighted with electric blue(w/e the citadel equivalent is) and then some bone white.

So I am using my battlelore minis to practice techniques but I keep running into a problem. Every time i prime with black and use flesh like colors, the black tends to show quite a bit and the paint seems too thin. I am not thinning it by much. I just as like 3-4 drops of paint and then 1 dab of water from my brush to thin it out. Any help on this matter?

I am using Vallejo game color paints.

>>50474999
Where did you get that hex base? I like the steep sides

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>>50474985

>>50474955
You don't like their attempt at humanizing larger than life demigods that are so far removed from humanity as to be considered monsters?

Nor do you like their attempts at scaling a conflict that resulted in a constant war the length of which is equal to recorded history?

geez anon

>>50472930
Nice, did everyone get paired up or did you just randomize it?

>>50475015
It's a Rune Golem from BattleLore Second Edition. It's attached. They're also not 28mm, and the game is going OOP in favor of the upcoming RuneWars: The Miniatures Game.

If you want it though, they're liquidating their stock for $30 in their holiday 'sale.' Pretty good deal for a self-contained game.

>>50475023
Yes! You've said it more succinctly. Both aims are dubious in their necessity, and they've done a poor job at both, IMO, partially because their best days as a creative and innovative company are long past, and partly because they hire terrible writers and editors

>>50474999
I also just started painting with the same stuff and had a similar problem. An anon diagnosed it as either A. I had been dipping my entire brush into the water and getting too much from the bottom of the bristles and base near them or B. Vallejo paints tend to go on thin and chalky when not thoroughly mixed, and they're very hard to mix when the bottles are full. Give it a vigorous shake for 30 seconds or a minute before use each time.

>>50473028
>Dont forget to put water in your iron

Cannot stress this enough.

>>50475097
did your parents never teach you how to iron
did you cause an accident

>>50475083
Interesting. I think it might be both cases for me. I heard that getting agitators of some sort to put into the bottles really help getting the paint to mix properly. I might look into that also because it just seems like black undercoats tend to cover the miniature a lot better then using white.

>>50475139
I was fucking 12 years old and hadnt used one before leave me alone

>>50474999
>Every time i prime with black and use flesh like colors, the black tends to show quite a bit and the paint seems too thin. I am not thinning it by much. I just as like 3-4 drops of paint and then 1 dab of water from my brush to thin it out. Any help on this matter?
>>50475083
>>50475149
Try vigorously rolling the bottles. Shaking doesn't seem to work as well as rolling for some reason.

Though aside from the very real possibility that the pigment has sunk to the bottom and you are just painting with medium, you should also take into account the fact that light shade do not cover dark shades well.
Whenever you paint light colors over dark basecoats you have to build it up first.
Use a brown under the areas you want to paint as skin, yellow or red and you'll get a much smoother coverage with the lighter shade afterwards.

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Does anyone have a good method to give the illusion of translucence for things like ghosts or slimes?

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>>50472930
>Wow, it took me almost an hour to send out all the mails.
>Every participant should have a mail with an address by now.

I got a confirmation that I was going to be part of Secret Santa on November 16th, but I never got my match. I don't see anything in my spam folder, either. Any chance I slipped through the cracks?

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Finished these guys last night.
What colors do you guys use for plasma stuff? Trying to branch out for more color separation

>>50472930
Some guy in Oregon
Hello my neighbor to the south

>>50472930
Aw... same country as me and fucking hell my secret santa address looks like something from a Crimewatch recreation... I look forward to the dead squirrel and used condom i'll be getting

>>50475435
gotta learn to thin those paints, buddy. as for plasma, I normally choose a color that will stand out. So with that color scheme, blue would be my choice.

>>50475462
I did my best, might have to redo em since the guy I bought em from primed them really shitty (grainy prime that was hard to sand)

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>>50475435
>Finished these guys last night.

Yikes! >>50475462 is right... their crustiness reminds me of the footage those unmanned submersibles took of the Titanic's artifacts that had been underwater for most of a century.

>What colors do you guys use for plasma stuff? Trying to branch out for more color separation

Green contrasts with my red. I agree that a bright blue should work for you.

>>50475228
casting it in a transparent resin works.
Reaper sells figures like that.

Other than that you'll have to pick an angle and paint the see through effect yourself.

>>50475407

What a sad thing that would be. If its the case i'll be your ss, forward your confirmation to trypticon at gmail and lets do this!

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>>50475533
>What a sad thing that would be. If its the case i'll be your ss, forward your confirmation to trypticon at gmail and lets do this!

If I don't hear back from our Secret Santa lad in the next day or so, then I'll go this route and you'll be hearing from me.

>>50474985
depends on what you plan to use it for. I bought that chinese made shit on amazon for like $100. Shits great for priming and getting primary colors on. No idea whats better for more precise control though.

>>50474999
For a first mini anon I have to admit I am impressed but its going to get harder when you actually highlight instead of dry brushing highlights.(Its fine to use this when doing fur or stone like surfaces)

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>>50475489
I always forget about green. yea, green could work as well.
>>50475480
its alright brother, when I first started painting, I didn't really thin my paints either. But you should experiment with it, on sprues or something else, since thinning really does make minis look a lot better.

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>>50475489
Like I said, the way they got primed was really shitty and sanding down was kinda hard since i didn't want to lose detail and stuff, not really good excuse for not thinning right, but most of the time I thin pretty good.

But what would be a good way of removing grain without sanding like crazy? Would a water bath with cleaners work?

>>50475560

No problem, bud, if you're Johnny anon then we've also been in the same facebook group for Astartes of Charity

>>50475573
Oh I've been experimenting a lot.
My first attempt was really fucking shit that got me kinda booed when I posted em. My current ones, even though not really thinned right look leagues better

>>50475578
chuck it in a dettol bath for a few days and then scrub with a toothbrush in methylated spirits (to stop the paint getting gluggy when you scrub it).

that's if theyre plastic, if theyre resin, just soak em in dettol for no longer than a day and try to gently scrub it off.

>>50475713
Alright cool ill mess around with em. Though I think they might be resin, when I was sanding the gunner, it was red instead of grey

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>>50471861
I had waterproof bandage tape in my one of my various hobby toolboxes.

Seems to be working.
Thanks for the tip, I was going to try and seal the edges with silly putty, but this is way more efficient and doesn't ruin the silly putty for paint masking.

>>50474150
Not just here, the various warhammer groups on facebook and leddit all pretty much love him.

He's one of the best things GW has done in ages.

>>50475527
I've seen some of the reaper figures. They're nice, but mostly just a handful of very specific things, and I was looking for a more general way to go about it.
How expensive would the materials for casting be?

So here's a question for you guys, how do you what what size brush to use when? I bought one of those assorted hobby brush sets, and I think I'm using the really tiny brush way more than I should.

>>50474862
Oddly, centerpiece models tend to be pretty good in Age of Sigmar.

>>50475843
because the game's designed around them, rather than having them awkwardly stapled onto a system clearly made without them in mind

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>>50473028

>>50475741
Note: White primer on plastic usually manages to stick around more than black or gray primers.

>>50476030
I know, I only prime in white since I mostly use bright colors for model stuff

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Just finished the Aquila on one side of my homemade Skyshield Landing Pad. Debating on whether or not I should do the same for the other side because this balsa wood is a bitch to work with. Thoughts?

>>50476178
>Just finished the Aquila on one side of my homemade Skyshield Landing Pad.

That looks incredibly cool.

>... this balsa wood is a bitch to work with. Thoughts?

Why not plasticard?

>>50476178
Why are you using balsa for that kind of detail?

>>50476237
>Why not plasticard

Good question. This was kind of a spur of the moment project with and I started flying by the seat of my pants regarding materials. I happened to have balsa wood on hand so that's what I went with. The big pieces came out fine, but those damn feet and heads kept splitting at random times.

>>50476288
It's my first time making something like this, I figured it would be suitable. Ah well, live and learn.

>>50476178
>>50476289
hell even thick cardstock would do the job

>>50475407
Sent my gift out already. Anon in Glendale keep an eye out for a package of brand new Warhams.

>>50472930
someone is getting a good gift, its the gift of SCIENCE
CASSIAN FUCKING DRACOS(minus the arms), a FUCKING CASTELLAX, AND 5 OF THEM SEXY, SEXY, but totally useless tech thralls

>>50475578
I used super clean to remove the paint off my friends models. worked like a charm

>>50472930
I got someone with an absurdly nordic sounding name.
Either way, they're getting a WHFB giant kit, since that thing is hands down my favorite miniature in the game and in my top ten giant retards.
The real question now is A) do I throw some washes in too and B) to banepost or not to banepost?

any way i can use scenic water for making lava bases for my salamanders

>>50477322
i wouldnt use scenic water, but if you want a bubbling effect there is a sculptable product from tamiya that would allow you to make bubble etc.

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>>50472930
>>50475601

OK, with everybody else getting addresses and sending gifts... if my match E-mail got lost in the shuffle, does that mean somebody is likely going to send me a gift, and I won't know until it gets here that I should return the favour? Was that how the SS was matched (i.e., I'm your Secret Santa, and you are mine)?

>>50475799
>How expensive would the materials for casting be?
Depends on where in the world you are and how much you need/want I guess. I think there are some places in the us where you can buy cheapo starter kits for casting that should have everything you need.

If you buy a kg of resin you'll be able to cast a hundred models easily or boatloads of bits though.

So while it might look like an investment at first it's a really good way to spend your money in the long run imo.
I also sculpted pieces and cast them for conversion projects though. So if this is a one time thing for you, you should take that into consideration.

The silicone I buy comes to around 40€ for 500ml I think. Can't say for sure how much the resin was. 2kg for a little less I think though.
I cast so much stuff with it in the time since I bought it though it's definitely been worth it.

Got a piece of an oop mini you want to use in a conversion? Just cast a few extras.
Sculpted custom heads or shoulderpads or whatever for your army? Just cast a few dozen and put them on the rest of your models.
Want to do special bases? Just master a set of 5 and cast the other 50.

>>50477367

Not exactly secret if it was done like that

It's probably A->B->C->D->A

>>50475836

You kind of have to force yourself to use the bigger brushes. It takes a little practice to block in basecoat colours quickly with a bigger brush to take advantage of how much faster it is without making such a mess that you lose all the time you saved.

Certainly wherever you're basecoating some big, flat-ish area (breastplate, cloak, a big jacket or pair of pants that aren't broken up by too much detail) you can get use out of a bigger brush. You can also plan out the order in which you basecoat a-la-Duncan, so that you can do the biggest area of colour sloppily and then neaten up the mess as you block in the rest of the colours, finishing with the smallest details like belts and straps.

I generally do most of my layering with a smaller brush though, but broad areas like cloth surfaces can often be layered with a medium-sized brush. You kind of have to eyeball it. Edge-highlighting on anything but really big figures or surfaces is probably the best place to use the smallest brush.

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>>50466770
simple, but awesome

>>50474662
Anyone

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>>50477777

>>50477777
Look at these poor, wasted quints

>>50477823
I'm talking about actually in the GW store itself. I need it for tomorrow and it's closed or else I'd call and ask.
>>50477898
>caring about gets on /tg/
You must be new here

>>50471835

Write fluff first, not even a lot, just some basic stuff. Then look at the Hawk Lords scheme and use that instead.

>>50478226
I gave you your answer, in plain text, straight from GW's website.

do the words "Webstore Exclusive" mean nothing to you

If I'm planning to go over a black basecoat with a colored glaze, do I need to paint black basecoat over black primer or can I just work from the primer?

>>50474704

Did you miss the End Times in Fantasy? This is the 40k equivalent.

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Does ANYBODY know of a miniature company that does busty 28mm pinup miniatures that are pretty much blanks? I'm going to be sculpting over it.

>>50465047
Hot diddly damn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HOLM7dXiyk

Duncus paints TSons

>>50478506

Might as well sculpt the basic form yourself and slap on a head for the face.

>>50478549
I'm good at sculpting with greenstuff but this is another level entirely. I mean at the very least I could work from a frame.

>>50478570

Wouldn't it be easier to find some bodyparts, sawing them and gluing them on a wireframe?

You could look at Kingdom Death pinup models but they're quite expensive. I think reaper has some too, but the sculpt very more in quality.

>>50472930 fun facts shipping from the u.s. to Canada is probably going to cost me at least $26

>>50478654

Yes, USPS shipping costs are retarded as fuck. Canada to Europe? 11 dollars. US to anywhere else? Hooo boy

>>50478686
I wish Adam included the option to do FedEx or UPS for shipping, it would be pricey, but no doubt cheaper than USPS, they're nuts.

>>50478713

I once tried to order some US only stuff for exercising. One item, 36 euro shipping. Two items, ~110 euro shipping. How is there not a competitor doing this for less.

>>50478746
There is competition, but many companies deal with national shipments for the vast majority of orders, which means they use USPS (which is cheap within the USA), but if an international customer orders something they get ripped off royally.

Which is why I like companies that offer things like FedEx, DHL or UPS as well, those are generally much cheaper for us international customers, plus all 3 of those handle the customs non-sense for you and send you a bill afterwards, which is much nicer than paying the postman when he comes with your package.

>>50472930
Got a dude in Sweden!

>>50478958
I got a rock....(US lol)

>>50475742
I'm really curious to see the result once this is done.

>>50475742
Man, I got to learn how to do proper water effects instead of just applying a coat of 'ardcoat on Stirland Mud for my mud bases

>>50474585
I'm pretty excited, given the nice new models and decent rules. Pre-ordered that, and I don't feel any regret.

Anyone have any experience with recasters and Kingdom of Death? I know Pillpitt has some at 12usd each, other than that I only ever see them on taobao, waiting on one to arrive but unsure on what to expect in terms of quality, and it ended up costing more.

>>50479117
I'm also curious about this. I'm trying to complete my collection (not paying for satan pledge, I already have core+expacs) and am really wanting the exclusives. Thinking of recasters if there isn't an add-on during this one for getting those minis. I've heard the resin is fragile shit and they are shrunken :(

>>50479208
by exclusives I'm meaning the ones from the original kickstarter, not the current one.

>>50473335

Beautiful wracks

How easily does Duncan's "Mars ground texture for bases" trick by just slpping a ton of Khorne Red on the base work?

Would it work to use a light blue dry paint to get a chipped/crushed ice effect? Or rather, are there any super easy ways to do that that don't require extensive extra painting or assemby work to adapt for an entire army?

>>50479567
>Khorne Red
Martian Ironearth, I mean.

>>50479567
if you want an ice effect, thats easy with crackle paint. now, with a colored one like the ironearth, you'll probably have to paint over it with white, followed by a light blue drybrush. you might want to invest a few bucks to get a white crackle paint (like the one shown in this video) and do this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHWo8RG1NuY

>>50479594
That sounds like a great idea, actually.

Citadel doesn't do any other crackle paints apart from Martian, do they? Want to start on my bases ASAP and my hobby store only packs Citadel paints.

>>50479631
agrellan earth is the other type.

>>50479636
I guess I could try that and paint over it with white a few times.

Won't the non-white paint get wet again if I paint over it, though?

>>50472930
Of all the anons in the world doing this, my guy is in the next county over about 45 minutes drive.
Small world.

>>50479749
i think you should hand deliver anon

>>50478506
Have you tried Hassle Free minis?

Does anyone know where I could find asian-ish heads for 40k? Preferably ones without helmets

>>50480087
Yriel Yellow and just don't paint the eyes.

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>>50480190
Any non-yellowface options?

>>50472930
Hello guy in austria
Dein Geschenk kommt!

>>50472930
Would people be offended if I mailed an BoP Ahriman model?

>>50480346
I wouldn't be offended. Plenty of people giving bits equivalent.

>>50480281
http://www.infinitythegame.com/catalogue/yu-jing.html

metal so not all that practical

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>>50463155
With the new Rubicae coming out this weekend i gave myself a push and finished the old guard from back in the day. Enjoy.

>>50475573
>that golden trim around the grill

Looks like he's been fucking the Emperor's golden member.

ratios for mixing custom washes with matt medium?

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Posted my lord of Plagues here a few days ago. Now I have worked in him a bit more. I still have some details left to do and the base needs to be done. But what do you guys think so far
>1/2

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>>50480822
>2/2

>>50480822

The green bile/slime/pus looks amazing

>>50480822
This actually disgusts me a little bit, well done.

>>50480850
>>50480867
Thanks a lot guys.
And the slime oozing out from his belly and wounds is just castellan green with a Nurgling green drybrush and a thin layer of Nurgle's rot

>>50480883
Also if you are wondering how I made the skin I used the following method
>A base layer of Rakarth flesh
>Then I put a thin coat of Carriburg Crimson on his entire skin
>To finish it off I drybrushed cadian fleshtone to highlight the areas of his skin

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>>50480087
You could try to use the Fire Forge steppe Warriors.
I'm not aware of any asian bits packs, there are a ethnic conversion bits with black anatomy though.

If are working on IG and you use the Fire Forge models you might be able to use the bodies too. If you are doing Space Marines I guess you won't need quite as many heads.

Couple of supernoob questions:

Is there any downside other than time to base coating models with a brush rather than spraying?

Is it better to completely assemble a model (it'll be Space Marines) before painting or part assemble and paint to get all the details more easily?

>>50480683
No highlights on the piece of armour on the base of the first terminator to the right. Lazy work, 2/10.

>>50480822
>>50480834
Pretty nice, i do like the addition of the hair on the back on his head, gives him a very leatherface-ish feel! 6/10

>>50479770
I dunno, that's kind of creepy.

>Knock on your door
>Generic 40k stereotype is stood on your doorstep
>"H-hi, I'm from 4chan. I have a present for you."
>Spaghetti falls out of pockets

Yeah-nah.

>>50480969
Thanks. I felt like he was to "bare" when I assembled him, so I took out some green stuff and just made some hair. Also that reminds me; should I put some nurgles rot in his hair to give him a greasy look, or would it be too much?

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>>50480961
>Is there any downside other than time to base coating models with a brush rather than spraying?

Are you talking about spraying with a rattlecan or using an airbrush? I imagine you could get a smoother coat with an airbrush if you're good at it - no brushstrokes!

>Is it better to completely assemble a model (it'll be Space Marines) before painting or part assemble and paint to get all the details more easily?

At the very least, you should leave off the parts that will get in the way. Even with old First Edition single-piece castings I paint the body and the backpack separately. For modern models, the biggest pitfall is probably going to be a bolter or heavy weapon held across the body in two hands. Gluing that in place before you paint instantly makes doing the plastron and aquila that much harder.

>>50480961
>Is there any downside other than time to base coating models with a brush rather than spraying?
Some of the brush on primers just don't work as well. Depends on the product you buy.
Same applies to primers though. Some are just paint and not real primer.
And yes, it takes MUCH longer to prime a squad of models by hand.
We're talking ~20 minutes with a break for letting the first spray coat settle vs a few hours.

>Is it better to completely assemble a model (it'll be Space Marines) before painting or part assemble and paint to get all the details more easily?
Open poses such as assault marines require are easier to paint in that regard.
With space marines you should always leave the backpack off and the special weapons and bolters on your tacticals at the very least.
Painting an aquila hidden behind a boltgun is a pain in the ass and the multipose models don't necessarily hold the guns close enough to their body that you cannot see what's behind it if you are standing above the model.
So Subassemblies of varying degrees are gonna make your life easier.
Make sure you mount the separate bits on a wire or something and stick that into a bottlecork though, otherwise they are a pain to handle.

>>50475573

Why is his helmet not white if he's a veteran?

Why are Ultramarines violating the Codex Astartes?

Dont know if this is the right thread or place, but I recently wanted to get into warhammer painting again. I had alot of warhammer fantasy when I was a kid (dwarfs, ogre kingdoms and vampire counts).
But I cant find them anywhere on the games workshop site, amd I read that they stopped producing them.

Is there any way at all to get hold of some of the old warhammer fantasy/classic models (for example the ogre kingdom), or are they all gone forever now?

>>50481363
Check out Age of Sigmar, then look at the Destruction Grand alliance

>>50481379
Oh thanks anon!
So what, they just took warhammer classic and smashed a new name on it? Are all the old models still avaliable?

>>50480834
>>50480822
hair is a bit weird, but that's just personal preference. so far, it looks good though.

personally, I would have waited with the guts, slime and whatnot until after you're done with the skin and its highlights.

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>>50463324
>>50472930

Hey, Secret Santa anon, if you're around before this particular thread dies (or maybe if I catch you again in the soon-to-be-next thread), let me know. I got accepted into the program, but have not received any Santa instructions. I don't wanna mooch, as I have plenty to give this Christmas; if I don't hear from you soon, I'll take >>50475533 up on his offer.

My E-mail address is lithonius at AOL dot com.

>>50481301
it's a models that was used in the 4th edition codex for the command squad.
Not a stern/van-guard marine.

And white helmet means 1st company. You can be a veteran an not be promoted to be in the 1st too. There are only 100 guys in a company after all.

>>50481046
>>50481067

Thanks for the advice anons. Don't have a space to airbrush or spraycan models so will have to undercoat them by hand.

Great idea with corks too. Good job my housemate is an alcoholic.

>>50481538

All models of the command squad are veterans, and all veterans paint their helmets white unless they're also sergeants.

That model is painted incorrectly according to GW's own standards.

Also his terminator honors are an indicative that he is in fact part rightful part of the 1st terminator company. Being part of a command squad is an upgrade for veterans, not a step below.

Also the 1st company is usually the biggest company

>>50481407
>So what, they just took warhammer classic and smashed a new name on it?
No it's a different game. WHFB is no longer officially supported since about a year or so.
>Are all the old models still avaliable?
Not, not all of them. Some are though. Under different names and maybe packaged differently.
For example you can no longer buy just 5 chaos marauder horsemen. You have to buy packs of 10 now.

>>50477593
Exactly.

>>50477367
Matches are not A->B B->A but A->B B->C C-D and D->A if that makes sense.

>>50475407
Please send me a mail, i'll resend your match if it somehow got stuck in the mail or something.