>Citadel Painting Guides: https://www.mediafire.com/folde

>>50230572
I've never seen Duncan as being smug. Explain.

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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>>50230418

How is this?

I want to get around to finally painting a bunch of models that have been sitting on my desk.

Given that I've touched them a lot and dust may be on them, I figure I should wash them down first. Any tips on washing the buggers without damaging them? Give 'em a bath with some dish soap?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50230572

Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush

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>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush

>>50230572
Never forget lads. Duncan himself has asked us to remember he doesn't do it alone and that we should remember Rog too.

this meme is way worse than johnny

I thought the Citadel dry line was a stupid waste of money, but it's so much easier to use than regular paint for drybrushing.

It's wet enough that you can get super fast drybrushing that feels smooth and not "oh boy, time to drybrush repeatedly for a long time to get gradual color" that feels like you might be ripping sand off the base, but dry enough that you'll never have the "my drybrush wasn't dry enough" and now I have too much color on the surface problem.

So, my Tau suits are meant to be old, worn, and heavily used. Nomadic force of renegades from a shattered strike force.

What sorts of decorations should I stick on them? Pouches, magazines, canteen, rifles in slings/holstered pistols... Trophies too, I imagine. And where would I find this stuff besides the guns and some of the pouches on the FW sprue?

What is the best guide to follow for an absolute beginner? I've ordered some reaper paints and plan to paint some skellies from the old D&D board game first.

>>50230810

IG infantry are the ones that have this kind of stuff. You can also add things like claw and fang necklaces or feathers on strings.

>>50230810
I enjoy the decorative bits by Anvil Industries. They have lots of guns, ammo pouches, grenades ect that look good and are pretty cheap.

http://anvilindustry.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home

I would also suggest getting a Tamiya weathering kit. They work extremely well.

>>50230787
I'm find this to be the casee for a lot of GW stuff which is really scary for me

>>50230624
Why does it seem like your picture is foggy?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50230856

Its a result of me messing with my phone camera. It takes massive and detailed photos as seen before, but when I held it near the mini it could not focus. I tried pulling back a bit but I felt that this mini looked small, so I tried zooming in ever so slightly. The zoom is the cause of the fogginess. Tomorrow I will try taking pictures again.

Also I figure that no one saying anything about my painting means that its okay.

>>50230814
You know, all this memeing about Duncan isn't for nothing. Go look at some of WarhammerTV's guides for painting various things.

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Buzz Buzz.

>>50230939

Heya chuck!

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I'm not good with painting metallic, so I decided to test myself by starting iron warriors because I'm an idiot. This was done with leadbelcher spray, earthshade wash, nuln oil, drybrush of necron compound, edge highlighting and scratches using runefang steel, and then did some oil and grease trails on selective places using Typhus corrosion.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, a little low on the contrast which is how I like to paint usually, but I think it looks gritty and natural, and relatively fast to paint.

Obviously I'll put more work in for the independent characters, I'm thinking I'll just do layering, since I have no idea how blending works with metallics, but still undecided on what technique I should use for them.

>>50230957
Good job man, How did you do the hazard stripes?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50230972
Base coat of Iyanden Darksun, which I don't think exists anymore, it's basically a really dull yellow base paint, the closet you'll get now is Averland Sunset. Wash with Earthshade, and then while the wash is still wet, blending in another later of Darksun, and that's it

>>50230842
I'm familiar with Anvil and like them a lot.

Followup: Are there any reasonably priced bits stores that aren't junk? I need to get a pile of Kroot rifles, a Ghostkeel jetpack, and that sort of thing. But at $1/rifle and $4 for the pack, it seems a little... I dunno, steep?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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>>50230899
Allright, I'll check those videos. I hope they don't focus on specific GW products too much though. I already got their primer but I plan to use paints from other brands.

>>50231250
>I hope they don't focus on specific GW products too much though.

Too bad, retard. You expect promotional videos from a company to advertise competitors' products? Fuck, why are there so many fucking retards these days.

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Since I couldn't get a game in, which is unfortunately the usual, I finally made a dent in the two imperial sectors the store bought for me to assemble. Pic related is part way through. I couldn't get a pic of the total I finished cause I was more or less rushed out the door.

>>50231250
>I plan to use paints from other brands.
GW has some good colors. Do not limit yourself just because "muh gw overpriced shit" meme

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>>50231270
>imperial sector
How is that set? I was thinking of getting one and a fat mat (pic related in specific) for my gaming group.

The green bedsheet and cardboard boxes we're using now are starting to get to me. Plus, I feel like having good terrain will actually get us to paint our models.

>>50231370

It's actually pretty sweet and very modular. See those panels? Those are the walls and you can pretty much build them how you want it. Unfortunately, the buildings in the picture are pretty baseline, but the ones I built after, I branched out a little. Shame that I can't make it to the shop until Friday night for more pictures.

Anyway, those panels, and the floors are what make the structures themselves. The floors come in strips of 4, 3 whole and 1 damaged, which have different styles of floor on either side. There's also 3 sets of wall, which are pretty cool.

Iirc, they're expensive, but there's a lot of customization to them, especially if you have 2 sets like my LGS owner got. The first box got me 4 big buildings, and the second is easily getting me twice as many smaller buildings.

>>50231425
Huh, sounds pretty neat.

I'll admit I was worried that the three building you had in your pic were two boxes worth of the set. I'm glad it comes with a decent amount of materials.

How is the actual mold quality?
I know GW plastic is pretty top notch nowadays, but I've got a few of the older sets and I was less than impressed (warped plastic, mold slippage, etc).

>>50230572
>Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

Do Scion beret heads look okay on normal shock troops?
Do they even fit?

>>50231463

Nah, that's about 3/4 of the first box. The tiles on the table are the manufactorum tiles (hence the ad mech symbol). I got a decently sized 2 story ruin out of it.

As for the quality, they're from 2005, which is on the sprue. The actual tiles are thick enough that I have noticed very little warping, though there is some there. There was also a little bit of slipping in places, but I doubt anyone would notice because everything else is so large. Mold lines are still a thing, as evident by the shavings. They're not bad, but they're proportional.

>>50231520
Sounds like a pretty good deal then. I'll try to scrounge up the money for the box sometime soon.

Thanks for the info, man.

>>50231585

No problem. I was surprised how much I got out of them myself. There's also a ton of extra stuff to play with, too like lamps and decorations.

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My new project--some Dreamforge Valkir troops with Statuesque Minis heads.

Gonna make a couple squads' worth, and use them in Killteam games.

>>50231665
This combo is such shit, I don't know why so many people like it. At that point it's not even SoB anymore, you're just an all-female army in armor fetishist. The heads aren't even good looking.

I'll be laughing like crazy and we'll see how really dedicated all these Dreamforge SoBfags are when Raging Heroes and GW's platsic SoB models exist.

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>>50231710

Different guy, but I've been playing SoB for an long time. The only 3rd party that looks worth getting to me are the Grishank.

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50231710
>look at this faggot, buying the product he wants from vendors who actually sell it. It's like he doesn't even want to 40k

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50231751
I love the way they look, but the "anonymous Russian on Facebook" business model makes me leery. Especially for experimenting with an abandoned faction that may turn out to be unplayable.

>>50231929

People have posted stuff they've ordered before. It looked pretty good.

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>Want to get an airbrush
>Tell my sisters I'd like one for Christmas, as I normally have no idea for them what to gift me
>"Ha, knew you were gay Anon"
>Apparently it's used for makeup application

Wouldn't that be nocive? Makeup particles flowing all over the place and stuff?

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I have been building BoP minis to add the the ridiculous backlog I already have.

Haven't painted anything in over a month.

120 space marines just became 150...

Spent Saturday at my Dad's house helping him with DIY and all Sunday tidying my flat.

I gave my hobby desk a real good clean so hopefully it puts me back into painting mood.
Hopefully I can bash the custodes out next weekend as I am pretty hyped to paint them and should bring me back into the mood.
I just got some Vallejo Gold to replace the shit citadel Gold paints at the recommendation of anons here.

Thanks for reading my blog, make sure to like comment and subscribe.

>>50231751
>those practically identical designs, including bolters

That's a C&D waiting to happen

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Hey im pretty new can anyone give me tips on painting Genestealer skin and a nice colour for the carapace other than black?

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Well im calling this fella done. Just need to touch the candles but whatever. I learned so much painting this while following the painting budda tutorial. Thoughts?

>>50232535
really nice. also what tutorials?

>>50232535
center highlight on his banner's sword is a bit thick/rough

otherwise looks nice, though the sigmarine text scrolls look ridiculous even with a good paintjob

>>50232535
Patrician job anon. Saw you start, happy to see such a good finished product. Now do this for your whole army. DO EEEEEET.

>>50232565
Just look up painting Buddha on YT. They also did a tutorial for splendid Calth UM.

>>50232178
Are you me? I also have 150 marines to build and paint, and spent the weekend helping my folks and cleaning my desk.

>>50230957
Hey, if you want to improve the chevrons, get Tamiya 2mm masking tape. It makes them so much easier, mate.

Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50230810
I have something similar on my tau kill team, the kroot bits are awesome

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I've done a bit more on my Lifthawk, it'll be finished eventually.

if I'm using Super Clean to strip minis will I notice a difference between regular model primer and spray paint, or is my Super Clean becoming shit after only a few minis.

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

What sort of gear would a tank crew have on the outside of their tank? I know real world tanks had sandbags, track links, crew's bags, etc. What about, say, a Leman Russ? Plasticard armor plates?

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>>50233398

Reminds me of Mary Ann, the scavengers' plane in Gunhed, which is meant to look like a B-17.

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>>50233495
>What about, say, a Leman Russ? Plasticard armor plates?

Does your Leman Russ have the "Extra Armour" vehicle upgrade?

>>50233495
IG tanks are basically ww1/ww2 tanks. Just look through some old photographs and copy what you see basically.
2nd and 3rd edition hobby material and codecies also had some material on how to customize your tanks.

>>50233576
Someone post infantryProtection.jpg

>>50230641
Probably. What are they made of?

>>50231751
Even better, these models go for $28 for 5 models with bonus parts for combi-weapons.

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OH GOD WHY - He ruined all my models

>>50233653
what?

>>50233653
>all my models
If it didn't look good the first time, why did you do it again?

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Reposting.

>>50233653
>Duncan will never present a grimdark version of Art Attack with Ferrus Manus as the Head.

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>>50232293
I use 50/50 rakarth flesh, and genestealer purple as basecoat.

Then watered down purple wash in the recesses only (do it twice if needed). Then re-highlight with the basecoat.

It does come out pretty bright compared to the GW stuff though. if you're after something duller maybe use more rakarth, less genestealer purp.

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>>50233679
its a video about dry technical paint

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Working on making my ratlings ready for winter.
One more to go, but damn is greenstuff tiresome

>>50233874
Are that the ugly painted ones (now stripped) from one of the last threads?

So, I'm a total noob when it comes to painting.

I've seen people base, shade and then drybrushing the base paint again but it seems rather dirty.

Other people base, shade and then basepaint again. But how do I know where to apply the base again?
I know crevices etc. should stay shaded, but I'm honestly worried about it looking weird.
Same with highlighting.

Any advice?

Are the any sites that sell conversion beamers?

Can't find anything really cool myself.

>>50234001
> I'm honestly worried about it looking weird

What I do is use a hard light (like my room's incandescent lightning) and then look at the miniature too see where the light brightens (highlight these!) and where the shadows grow (leave these in the basecoat, add shade to the recesses in these areas to simulate the shadow).

Generally speaking we highlight based on the 'halo of light' technique where there's an imagined ring of lights around the miniature, shining down and around it.

> drybrushing

It's good for textured surfaces like Space Wolf pelts, scales, chainmail, etc. Drybrushing flat armour panels can get very messy very quickly (though you can do it lightly to get some weathering effects easily). For weathering flat panels I prefer stippling.

>>50234084
For an inquisitor right? I'm curious which model you are going to use for that inquisitor

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>>50234001
>But how do I know where to apply the base again?

Everywhere but in the deepest folds.
See pic related for example.
You don't have to be 100% precise for that.
Highlights go on the highest spots and you want to do it a little more neat than with the re-applied basecolor.

If you do armored minis like Space marines you want to be more clean and neat though.

In the end, just try and experiment.

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>>50234001
>But how do I know where to apply the base again?

Apply the basecoat colour over the parts where the shade sticks out too much.

Look at the feet between the third and fourth pictures of this collage. In the third picture, I had slopped on too much Seraphim Sepia on trying to get a nice dark yellow around the ankles, but by the fourth picture, I had that all covered up with another layer of Averland Sunset.

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>>50231602
I couldn't believe those sprues are over a decade old. I'm a real fan of them. The only downside is that you only get 4 end pieces per kit, so they're not great for making multiple smaller ruins.

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>>50234149

Not sure how (problem exists between chair and keyboard?) the small version of that picture got attached. You can't see what I'm talking about.

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>>50233892
Yep!

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

Is White Scar simple white?

I want to highlight pallid wych flesh and heard highlighting with white can look bad

>>50234126
Actually for a techmarine.

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50234512
Yeah, it's a straight-up, anglo-saxon, protestant white. I think it looks fine as a neat highlight, but you could mix it 1:3 with Pallid Wych Flesh if you prefer?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush.

Is Druchii violet the new Agrax Earthshade?

>>50234512
Ceramite White and White Scar are both pure white, they just have different formulation to make perform as base and layer paints respectively.

Can you highlight silver? Also I painted my Doom Eagles with the old Mithril Silver and I'm curious to know if Stormhost Silver is a good replacment for it.

>>50234512
>highlighting with white can look bad
Only if you're jumping straight to white from a richer color. White is the proper highlight for an off white color like that. If you're worried mix a little bit of the flesh tone into the white first.

>>50234688
>Can you highlight silver?

Sorta...

>Also I painted my Doom Eagles with the old Mithril Silver and I'm curious to know if Stormhost Silver is a good replacment for it.

Mithril Silver, now known as Runefang Steel, *is* the highlight for "dirtier" colours like Leadbelcher (the old Boltgun Metal) or Ironbreaker (formerly Chainmail).

>>50234688
Generally you highlight silver with a brighter silver. But if you're basing the mini in Mithril Silver you're basically at the brightest already. Mithril Silver, Runefang Steel, and Stormhost Silver are close enough in color that trying to highlight with them on each other wouldn't be noticeable.

Generally you would base in Chainmail and highlight with Mithril Silver. Runefang is equivalent to Mithril. You might want to instead do and all over wash with 50/50 Nuln Oil and Lahmian Medium and then highlight that with Mithril/Runefang/Stormhost.

hit it with testor's dullcoat and the metal will look more real

>>50231250

why is the primer smooth and shiny? that defeats the whole purpose of primer...

>>50231250
There's a paint color compatibility chart in the OP

>>50234810

was for this guy

>>50230957

>>50234688
If it's for very small highlights like sharp edges you can get away with mixing silver with white for a highlight color. It will look crappy if used in any kind of wife area or if the highlights are too thick though.

>>50234935
>wife
Wide

>>50234949
Well, if you apply your white acrylics to your wife she probably won't look great either.

>>50231665
those are shit. they are like scions with boobs. not SOBs.

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Ok /wip/ I need your help.

For whatever Reason I saw a box of Nurglings at my GW and had the bright idea to make a few nuglings with banjo's, just because I can... how should I go about making some? i don't have a lot of experience with greenstuff, but i'm willing to try.

as a followup on >>50233410, I'm unable to get most of the paints off minis after soaking them for more than 24 hours. Should I just wait with the minis on the Super Clean longer, or should I be worried about the plastics going soft? I bought them all secondhand, so I'm not sure if the shiny-ass basecoat on them is actual model paint or regular spraypaint, or if that even makes a difference.

and for >>50233704, I'll probably be picking up my secret santa gift tonight at a warmachine event tonight, where I'll be showcasing my newly-cleaned and my not-so-cleaned minis to play. Wish me luck!

>>50235279
Sometimes people just primed with shit that wont come off. One of the dangers of buying painted plastic stuff off eBay.

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>>50231926
Hilarious.

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>>50232190
>Russias face when Britain ask to arrest someone for copyright infringement in Russia

>>50233576
How about other factions? Eldar Wave Serpents, Tau Devilfish and their tank variants... Orks are obvious.

>>50235436
Automotive primer in particular is fucking awful to get off.

>>50235526
Generally, if they're serious about fighting an IP infringer, a company will work with Credit Card companies and other payment providers to cut off payments to the infringing store. The infringers arent under criminal threat of course, but Russia wouldn't have much say in it either.

>>50235549
Nothing for Eldar. Their vehicles travel too fast for that to be practical. Not sure for Tau, but external storage seems to go heavily against their aesthetic.

>>50235436
>>50235591
so it should be fine for me to paint over the leftover primer, or will I experience detail loss?

>>50231370
Look up Pegasus hobbies gothic city. You can fill a board with terrain for the same price as a single gw piece.

>>50235735
Well just look at your minis. If the detail still looks sharp now you should be fine.

>>50230957
>I'm not good with painting metallic

You are now

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So thats my wip right now pretty happy with it dont know what to do with the base though

>>50235849
Work with your colour choice?
Your Screamers look like they're made of lava or something, and with the red bits the disc is resting on, maybe have them flying above a lava flow?

>>50235276
Buy tiny banjos. In all seriousness, green stuff is probably your best bet unless you can buy props. Do you have a plan for how you're going to do the strings?

Is venting necessary for brush painting?

>>50235982
not really, unless you're working with alcohol or IPA based paints you shouldn't be producing enough fumes to worry about.

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>>50230572
I need some help

I have some models that are primed and there's a bunch of bubbles on them. I put them in some Simple Green but that didn't really work. I'm thinking about taking some nail polish to get the primer off. Do you have any suggestions

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>>50236395
This should fix the problem over night. Also simple green a shit.

>>50235982
Acrylics are water based. So no. Not at all. Some people even lick their paintbrushes as they paint.

>>50234160

True, but you get a bunch of solo broken ends, which can make up for it

>>50236395
L.A. Awesome available at any dollar stuff cheaper and better than Simple green.

>>50236465
just poured into a jar put them in there and leave it overnight.

>>50236395

Don't use nail polish it was more often than not, melt them.

>>50236590
L.A?

>>50236678
The acetone in nail polish remover will degrade plastic minis, yes. It's absolutely fine for metal miniatures though.

>>50233589
They're just some plastic Tempestus Scions.

>>50231480
They don't quite fit without modification. The neck joint sits deeper on the Scion bodies than Shock Troops so they get giraffe necks. But you can whittle down the plastic and get a decent fit.

>>50236743
1. His photo shows a plastic miniature
2. The overwhelming majority of miniatures are not metal these days

>>50231910
>"want" SoB
>make ugly shit that looks nothing like SoB

Nice one. Dreamforge eisenkern are nice models but SoBfags just ruin them with ugly heads and try to cram them in a setting they don't belong or fit in.

>>50236874
Just put them into warm (not hot) water with a little bit of dish or hand soap in it and gently clean them.

>>50234949
These words are the same anyway.

>>50233757

It's amazing that that text actually works for Carol's character.

>>50235549
The tau are all about everyone already having their gear before the mission, so I doubt they'd put anything on the outside of their tanks, perhaps on the inside storage of a Devilfish. And if one of their grav-motors go, they're probably a bit beyond slipping an extra drive on. I suppose if you wanted to try something, you could look to get those little technical drones from Forge World and having them float about the tank, as if they're a repair system.

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>>50233653
nice MS paint.

Hey /WiP/ posted this in the general, but I figured one of you gentlemen might be able to help as well;

Does anyone have the set of Drakkus crests from the Freeblade transfer sheet for Imperial Knights? I'm almost done with my Household, but I need one more set of the crests for a shield, banner and carapace. Thing is I can't find them anywhere. If anyone has experience building and painting Knights, do you have any recommendations for free handing such tiny, detailed crests if I cant find them?

>>50230957
Neat, I'm making a 40k Iron Warriors army so I'm totally adapting this colour scheme.

>>50230572
Always remembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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>>50234688
>Doom Eagles

Excellent taste anon. Keep being such a dedicated protector of Mankind.

>>50231710

I don't like it but it's not my money. I'm sticking to technical advice on projects like these.

>>50237039
Alright, thanks.

>>50237867
>shitter with shit taste is too shit to even build his own models

sasuga battoru no onee-chan

Does Duncan have a tutorial on how to paint armor chipped at the edges?

>>50238402
pretty sure I've seen something like that in his short one-off videos.
check the channel page, couldn't have been too long ago.

>>50238402
I don't know. Personally, I'd determine what color the inner armor is, do a couple layers of that, with an artificer brush if it's small, then shade it a bit, and do a slight highlight around the edges of the damage, in a slightly lighter color than the surrounding armor.

How do you decide on your colour scheme ?

I'm unsure about painting my tyranids' skin almost white or more greyish.
Is there some form of color scheme tester on the Internet? The one in DOW2 is shit.

>>50238693
Look up painted 'Nids, and see what you like. I think there was a site like that, for spess muhrens, but I can't recall the name.

>>50238693
I just look up schemes on the internet and take from that. if parts of one look good, I test it out on crap models I have, or on sprues.

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Finished another 5 tacticals.
The 5 from last week are in the back row.

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>>50235956
>>50235276
Does it have to be banjos? Reaper does a musival instruments pack, and I know I've seen more than one indie house who sells lutes as bits. That said, if it does have to be banjos, that sort of shape would be pretty easy to make with a little disc of plasticard, a plasticard neck and greenstuff details.

>>50238977
Wow, that's actually really good. The paint's done neatly, and your highlight work is great. It might just be me, but you may have used a little too much shade in the pauldrons. I like the dirty look on the legs.

>>50238977
God damn, those yellows, anon. Top notch airbrushing.

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>>50238977
Pretty sweet work, that weathering and paint chipping
>very nice

>>50235279
Go for aceton - 20 second bath - brush, rince with water then post result

>>50240102
Id your minis are plastic, do NOT use acetone, even for a short moment. It'll attack the plastic immediately. Acetone is for metal ONLY.

Just how shit is finecast nowadays?
Thinking about getting a tech marine and servitors.

>>50240409
Friend of mine uses finecast Black Templars. If you aren't trying to magnetize, they work okay. Get plastic where you can though.

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I'm sorry to ask here, but could someone swap the colors on this model (->purple carapace + grey skin) in photoshop or something real quick?

I'm shit at art programs and cannot do it myself

>>50236714
My bad its La Awesome .

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>>50240456
Or on this one as image quality isn't so shit.

I just can't for fucks sake find a grey skin with purple carapace paint scheme on the Internet

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>>50231250

I look forward to your progress, I have a load of those D&D Fantasy Adventure Boardgame miniatures too, for Heroquest and that kind of thing. I gave one of the Wraiths a quick drybrush and wash job to see how they take paint but haven't started on the more detailed ones yet. Hacking off integral bases gets boring quick.

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So I just won my store's kill team painting competition with my unfinished kill team because I'm the only one that showed up. I honestly didn't expect anything, because I've been too busy to finish, but hey I got 85 in store credit for just being there!

>>50240409

The newest ones are flawless, but make sure you can see inside the package before you buy it. It might be an old one nobody bought and full of holes.

>>50240662
>85 in store credit for bringing in models you painted anyway

I wish I had your LGS

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>>50240662
I can finally get some more paints with the money.

>>50240688
I was honestly shocked because it was planned for over a month and was on the calendar of events. Lots of people participated in the kill team pose competition and playing games, but no one showed up for the painting part.

So for marines I can glue on everything except the weapons before I paint right?
Assembling prospero and I don't have paints yet but I want to do something

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>>50240409
>Just how shit is finecast nowadays?
>Thinking about getting a tech marine and servitors.

Why not get metal ones?

>>50240992

Prospero marines cannot have both a bolter and a chainsword unless you are chaos, wolves, or space sharks

if you leave the chainswords off they can be whatever. they're just fags with bolters which are everywhere in 40k

>>50241014
>why not metal

Maybe because he is not a masochist or an angry grandpa.

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints n' get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

PRAISE BE UNTO LORD DUNCAN

>>50241049
It's incredible how successful GW's brainwashing was. I mean everybody agreed Finecast was crap when it first came out, yet somehow people still ought into the idea that metal is somehow harder to work with.
And the kids starting these days are scared of metal minis for some reason.

Unless you plan on doing major conversions on the miniature the only noticeable difference in the end is the weight. But in my experience the quality is consistently better.

In 20 years I've had maybe a handful of bad metal casts, but every single resin miniature from GW, including FW though not every mini here had flaws.
Note that I had great casts from other companies though.

>>50241027
I mean before I paint I shouldn't put the weapons on

>painting rust on a walker

Where would rust even build up without getting scraped off at?

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>>50241049
>Maybe because he is not a masochist or an angry grandpa.

C'mon, anon, my son is way too young to give me grandchildren... even in Arkansas!

>>50241287
>Unless you plan on doing major conversions on the miniature the only noticeable difference in the end is the weight.

Also, we're talking about Techmarines and Servitors here. Compared to some of the crazy things you can stack on a Captain or Librarian, techs are pretty cut-and-dried. Servitors are even more so, although I did convert some (metal) technical servitors to carry (plastic) big shootas for fire support (pic related, far left and far right).

It wasn't hard.

>>50241353
Corners, flat spots on armor where bullets would ricochet off, probably anywhere someone climbs up to the seat, or where their feet rest on.

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>>50231926

>>50233718
>Art attack reference

my nigga

>>50241413

You'd be surprised how many 30 to 40-something 40k players are actually angry old men in younger bodies.

>>50240343
that's why you do only a 20 second bath then you rinse with water. I did that for over 150 cadians and they're perfect. Your plastic is not gonna melt in two seconds...
Strange thing is aceton don't remove golden paint (shinnng gold/balthasar gold)

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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Sorry for posting this again, but I'm getting ready to prime (as soon as I get it).

I have it disassembled and cleaned at the moment, but I'm not sure if I should glue it yet. If I don't assemble it first, doesn't the primer fuck with the glue?

>>50241014
telling people to just "get" the skullz tech-crew is a bit mean, don't you think?

>>50233653
Don't do this! It creates mustard gas!

>>50240662
>those gems
>light blue->dark blue->white
Should it be white->light blue->dark blue???

Anyone got interesting WIP pics of Gue'vesa or other models people have converted into Tau-allied units? I have kroot Shas'ui and some FW Cadians, looking for inspiration.

I was thinking of getting the Scions box to convert. the vehicle looks like i could convert it with some drones and Devilfish parts?

>>50242002
just scrap the primer before you assemble

>>50231370
Got the same mat between a couple of buddys and couldnt be happier, looks awsome and heaps less dice bouncing off the table.

>>50242499

Yea, I guess that makes sense.

>>50239201
No, they have to be banjo's, I want to do a small Redneck themed nurgle deamons force to go along side my nurgle CSM, just for Shit's and Giggles.

>>50231665
At least give them bolters if you're going to use them as sisters. Put a bit more effort into it this conversion.

Of course, there is a chance that you're using these for something else, like power-armor inquisitorial acolytes. I would still suggest doing a bit more to them besides a headswap.

>>50231710
Raging Heroes' notSisters look like korean knockoff shit that tries too hard.

>>50235164
The only part that looks like scions is the medieval plate armor breastplate.

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Gettin my Goreshade on tonight

>>50242002
You don't have anything being obscured by gluing it in that pose. It's not like she has a bolter in front of her chest.

Just assemble it then prime and paint it.

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>>50232087
Hell ye you can apply makeup with an airbrush, those prosthetics ain't gonna blend themselves!

Vallejo surface primer, two layers should be enough when brushed on, yes?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50242018
>telling people to just "get" the skullz tech-crew is a bit mean, don't you think?

Well, yeah, but I meant just metal techie-ladz like >>50241413 in general. I happen to have da Skulz ladz in a picture sitting in my picture bucket, and they came up first. Most of my *painted* servitors are the metal Second Edition ones which are fairly common.

Ironically, I *don't* have the metal versions of the ones you get in Finecast with the Techmarine, but I'm itching to get my hands on them when I have the chance.

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anyone familiar with konflict 47, im trying to size some walker vehicles, the infantry say they are 28mm but i cant find any other size references. pic related what im looking at

>>50244263
If ya finned ya paints rite.

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>>50244434
and this one

How ventilated does your painting room need to be?

I'm going to set up a station in my garage, but it has no windows/vents. Would I need to have the roller door open to prevent death?

>>50244583
Most acrylic paints are fine and don't give off many fumes. You can paint at your leisure.

If you are using CA glue or plastic cement, open a window and maybe turn on a fan.

If you are using an airbrush or rattlecan, either do it outside, or use an active venting hood AND a respirator

>>50244609
Thanks, anon.

>>50244434
>>50244446
I don't even think these are out yet.

>>50244434
looking at the design of this just makes me realize why we didnt use mechs in ww2

-why build a mech that can at best have some .50cals and maybe a light autocannon, when you can have a sherman with a 76mm cannon and .50cals and provide cover

>>50244609
>adding more:
Plastic Cement contains stuff that can cause nerve damage if you huff it. Don't hold it near your nose, and keep a window open if you are using it, or use it outside. I don't know off hand what damage CA glue causes, and I don't care to find out.

Acrylic paint particulates from airbrushing shouldn't cause too much damage on their own, but flow improvers, varnishes, primers, etc can fuck you up bad. See the pdf in the copy pasta to read more about the dangers of Painter's Disease. Please don't huff rattlecans. The flow improver for airbrushes I use has this really distinct odor and I am always worried I should wear a respirator, even when using it outside.

Modern acrylic paints are non-toxic and odorless, though obviously you wouldn't want to drink them. For one, GW paint is like 1,420 USD a gallon, but also it could make you sick in other ways. You should be fine painting from a brush without protection, but if you are concerned you can air out your space between long sessions.

I airbrush and use rattlecans on my patio, but do everything else indoors, opening my window as needed. Since your space has no windows, just consider doing something for when you use plastic cements. You will want to use plastic cement over CA glue when you can, as it fuses the two pieces of plastic together rather than putting adhesive between the two pieces.

>>50244434
>>50244685
Like take out the arms and legs and you have the front of an attack chopper, without all the mobility and weaponry.

>>50244689
This is really helpful, thanks.

Going off on the tangent of glues, I've been out of the hobby for ten odd years now - do Games Workshop sell plastic cement, or would I go to a hobby store? I feel like when I used to collect, they only had super glue and plastic glue.

>>50244774
GW does sell both CA glue (aka , Cyanoacrylate glue, super glue) and plastic cement (aka plastic glue, Butanone glue...), but you might fare better from hobby stores or online.

I use a bottle of Tamiya plastic cement with a brush applicator. Some people prefer the nozzle, but I like the brush.

I use Loctite Thin Pro, or something along those lines. The Loctite Gel is a lot easier to control for beginners but the glue is super thick and leaves huge gaps between parts. Every CA glue in existence seems to crust up and clog at the nozzle, so be sure to keep it clean with some cling film and or the back of something metal.

>>50244868
>Every CA glue in existence seems to crust up and clog at the nozzle
I recently had the unfortunate experience of one exploding all over my hand.

Thankfully the mini only got an inconsequential amount on it, but that stuff burns more than I remembered.

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>>50231370
I've owned a bunch of them over the years - tough, versatile, easy to assemble.

When I built my urban board recently I used 3x imperial sector and 3x aquilla shrine.

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Just finished a mock-up of my color scheme for my harlequins. I am calling them the Masque of the Shattered Prism. I am working on making a purple and jade nebula effect. I am having a little trouble because the purple pigment is so much denser than the jade. I think I just need to thin my paints more, make the purple more of a wash to tint the white. I also fucked up on the stars, they are way to big. The underside of the starweaver was just me trying a hex technique, I wanted it to look like the crystal was glowing but caged in. It didn't work so disregard that. Still I think this came out pretty swell.

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>>50246049
Side view. I don't think the planet came out well on the small area I had it. I might also need to highlight one side to make it look more round like more light it hitting it.

>>50246049
>>50246067
That is stunning.

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>>50233704
maybe ill actually get something in return this year

>>50241014
RARE OOP PRO PAINTED £75689

>>50240409
Its so shitty that GW was sick of all the replacement minis they had to hand out so they started their metal casting again with their "made to order" program.

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50234339
What's that mini on the left?

>>50241951

>Your plastic is not gonna melt in two seconds...

Yes, yes, that is exactly what is going to happen. I don't know what kind of weak diluted version you were using, but touching model plastic with acetone will just melt it within 2 seconds.

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>>50234339
Why is Robin Williams' ghost inhabiting that ratling model?

>>50241951
Yes it will, I don't have the pic anymore but I posted ab zxample of a marine that I dipped, rinsed and brushed immediately. Sure the paint got off, but the plastic was also attacked. It looked like a marine under a light acid rain.

>>50246914
This.

Even acetone-free nail paint remover will melt plastic in under 1 minute

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more Khorne from AoS box

>>50247831

Came out well, you got some metal on your red on the shoulder though

>>50247970
damn, thats a good eye

Does finecast need to be washed?
Do I need soap or will plain water do?

>>50246049
Are you airbrushing the nebulae first, then doing a stencil for the pattern? or are you doing the gradient for the diamonds, then covering areas and doing the nebulae?
It looks great, but that planet definitely needs highlighting, I wouldn't have spotted it without you mentioning it.

>>50250648
Yes, Yes.

Did anyone ever get their hands on a digital copy of the Burning of Prospero painting book and upload it somewhere?

>>50250648
It never hurts to wash your minis before assembling, and if its just to get the grease from your fingers off.

>>50251034
I think i've seen it over at the 40k or 30k general

How many modeling related scars do you guys have?

>>50230572
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50251422
Be ready to re-layer then, just so they don't look like they're covered in dust. Either way you're going to have to take some amount of time to get those highlights right.

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What citadel colors would be best for drybrushing Iron Hands? I'm going for a blue/black look and i'm tired of edge higlighting.

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I just finished my first mini ever. What did I do well and what should I do better?

>>50252665
those models look pretty good.
No matter what you do, drybrushing black is gonna look messy by comparison.
If you are tired of painting those guys try painting something else for a change, then come back to them when you are more motivated.

Don't compromise on quality. You only have to paint them once, but you are gonna be looking at them for a long time to come.

>>50252812
Moldlines and liquid talent

>>50252665

You don't drybrush these surfaces, unless you want it to look shit.
Because you will be using the wrong technique for the job. Its like painting the eyes with a tank brush, or using the wash as a paint, well you get the picture.
Dry-brush is for feathers, fur and those types of texture. You can also dry brush metal to get a good effect. But you don't dry brush edge highlight, the same way you don't shade your highlights.
It takes time, and as I mentioned in the other wip thread, there is no need to frame the models with edge highlights, just make sure you pick out those details where it would seem natural it would reflect light at its brightest.
And as some anons have said, yes, it takes time, it takes patience. Those are both two main ingredient in this hobby, just get used to the idea that nothing is finished fast, and if it is, its probably bad looking.

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>>50252665
>>50253637

I mean, this is not what your after. This just looks silly. It makes no sense what so ever, and its obviously made by someone who doesn't understand the basics of this technique and what its there for (unless of course he truly is aiming to make a TRON marine).

Is it really pronounced Waaaa like Duncan does? I always thought it was WAAAGH with the actual GH being pronounced.

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>>50252812
Liquid talent for sure. Maybe thin your paints a lil' more, though that could just be the model, and get rid of those mold lines.

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rate my eversor. been painting for 1/2 year now

>>50253929
It really is

>>50254117
thin your paints and your highlights/10. way too thick and heavy handed. go back to your basics and practice them over and over again.

>>50254124
Good thing I never actually spoke it out loud, I prefered "E're we go" anyways.

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>>50246844
A disgusted valhallan.

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>>50250963
I do the rainbow, then mask it, the freehand the nebula.

>>50230572
this nigga looks so happy painting it makes me want to get back into it again

>>50230572
Oh, come on. Does anyone actually believe these kinds of OPs? Posting some copypasta isn't going to make you a better painter, or anything like that.

Then again, better safe than sorry.

Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush

>>50230572
the Stripping Paint link doesn't work, can it be updated with http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip... ?

>>50257000
hmm. The ... is required for the link to work for me, but it doesn't copy when added to an HTML.

New thread >>50243272