WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

Getting back in to Warhammer after an almost decade long hiatus, but this time I'll just be picking out models I like to paint, rather than building armies, etc.

Which miniatures are the most visually stunning?

40k, Fantasy, AoS, etc. It's all good.

Anyone put two handed Indomitus weapons on Tartaros? Like the DA Halberd of Caliban or a GK halberd? Do they fit without fiddling?

>>50216908

The new Adeptus Mechanicus minis are quite nice, barring the crab tank.

>>50216908
Fantasy and AoS are going to be the most visually stunning. Just go on the website and look at models you like.

Anyone have a good tutorial on how to highlight on black?

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>>50216744
>Auric Patrician Johnny
Goldenboner.jpg

>>50217003
>Not liking the Militarized M.U.L.E
Shaking my head at your poor taste, anon.

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>>50217003
I fuckin' LOVE the crab tank

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!
Do you fellows tend to buy paint in interesting colors and keep an array of it, or buy only as each project you decide to begin demands it?

>>50217154
The turret is rather shit. Something segmented and domed, like FW Mechanicum stuff, would have looked better. Make it more like a mechanical insect, than a box on legs.

I hope 30k sees the M.U.L.E. in some form, maybe as a transport walker.

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50217179
I suppose random segmentation is sort of the AdMech's thing, but I like the boxy look. It looks solid for a walker, like a dreadnought.

>trying to figure out a good Kroot proxy for my army (worn down renegades in the vein of Farsight Enclaves and using their lists, but with obviously used and abused gear)
>no xenos because hardline anti xenos attitude bred by conflict with orks
>this leaves me with tau to somehow perform WS 4 melee work

So would Tau with cut-up pulse carbines, power bayonets, beat up armor, and no helmets be acceptable Kroot proxies?

>>50216893
>spills new giant pot of wash
>still has enough wash in pot to rival a full pot from the smaller old design

Try spilling one of the old pots.

Anyone know where I can get the 40kMissionary with Plasma Gun model that recently went OOP? Barring that is there an easy way to proxy/convert one?

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So, a while ago (like over a month?) I had a dubs contest to see what I would paint two tyranid dudes. Blazing orange and sky blue won out, but a lot of people wanted a Ultra-nid as well, so I'm trying to do both.

Getting a new job in a different city IMMEDIATELY after running the contest has thrown my painting schedule for a loop, but I finally have a minute.

Progress is coming along, if rather slowly. Not sure when sky guy here will be done.

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Aaaaaaand here's what's been done so far with Ultra-nid.

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2nd batch of these shits. Testing bases to match new game mat but probably up end going with the dude on the right.

>>50217543
>>50217556
Are you a bad painter or did you just not give a shit?

>>50217556
horrible coverage on the gold, but I salute you for making Hive Fleet Ultra a thing

>>50217556
I thought it was merely a myth, a legend, nothing more! But to see Hive Fleet Ultra become real is oddly satisfying.

>>50217608
He actually did a really good SW Cadian, so I'm going to say he's just not finished.

>>50217608
>>50217612

It's not done, dudes. Hence why I said:
> so far

>>50217645
>I thought it was merely a myth, a legend, nothing more! But to see Hive Fleet Ultra become real is oddly satisfying.
Does the thread where these guys were dreamed up still exist somewhere?

>>50217755
Probably not, never archived them and the idea started in a 40k general. Like, if you looked hard enough you could probably find a couple.

>>50213407
Bump, ignore mephiston red question, but still curious about what paints required to achieve the attached

>>50217342
I dont see why it wouldn't work.

Personally I really like the kroot models, though. I was thinking of painting mine up like little Injuns.

posted on ded thread.

im a super beginner to this hobby and i got a question about greenstuff, you dont glue it right it just hardens itself over time. also how long should u leave it before moving onto painting etc.

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>>50217937
You should apply green stuff (or, even better, pic related) before you prime a model. You do not need to glue it. It should be good to paint over/prime over as soon as you apply it.

>>50217958
how long should u wait before its ready to touch. i dont want to move it after i worked on it

>>50218045
For both milliput and green stuff you'll want to wait about 6+ hours, just to be sure, before you can touch it without smudging it.

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entering this in a painting comp this month. anything to do to stand out? i'm going to title it 'Remembrancers depiction of an Adeptus Astartes of the great crusade , M31"

>>50218077
>>50217958
ok thnks

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Comments/Critiscms?

>>50200639
Yes, Greenstuff hardens on its own.
After an hour it should be safe to touch, but I'd wait one night before painting over it, it'll be completely hardened by then.

>>50218185
Oops, I meant to link to >>50217888

>>50218166
yellow is not very smooth

hazard stripes aren't straight

lots of jpeg artifacts

no apparent highlights on most of the model

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>>50217937
>you dont glue it right it just hardens itself over time.
Yes. That is if you mixed it correctly. It's a two part epoxy. The blue part is the hardener.
The more of the hardener you mix in the less sticky it's gonna be, but it dries harder and faster.
You'l want more yellow for tiny details such as rivet that have to stick well to the surface below and more blue for stuff that needs to keep a straight edge, like armor or other mechanical parts.
You can also cut and sand it to some degree after it has cured.

Milliput as >>50217958 recommended is better for that though. Beware though that it behaves quite differently. GS is like pushing chewing gum around, whereas Milliput feels like actual clay. You can also thin Milliput with water. Once it's cured it's a lot more rigid and lends itself better to working with knives, files and sandpaper when dry.
If you need to apply super tiny details with Milliput - like rivets - it helps if you apply a super thing was of Milliput with a brush before putting the details in.

>also how long should u leave it before moving onto painting etc.
It generally takes about 24h to dry completely. You can speed that up with heat though. Some people use a tincan and a lightbulb as GS oven to speed up curing times. Beware though that this is only a good idea to use when working with metal. Plastic and resing might not take too kind to that kind of treatment.

Also as a tip in general stick it onto the model immediately after you mixed it, when it's at it's stickiest. Then wait 10-20 minutes before you start to sculpt. That way it won't come off the model and be a bit less blobby (i.e. pushing into one side will no longer deform the other side as much)

>>50218166
Use Tamiya 2mm masking tape when painting chevrons. Makes them look much nicer!

>Forge Father
That is a Warsmith.

>>50218077
>>50218045
Green stuff sets faster than Milliput, but to fully cure they both need 6+ hours as anon said. If you watered down your milliput a lot, you will probably need more.

Fully cured, milliput will be hard and brittle.

Fully cured, greenstuff has the consistency of chewed gum that has been spit out and has then dried completely. Thin parts might still be slightly flexible.

If you are sculpting something big, use a copper wire armature underneath.

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Reposting from last thread.
I'll repost this once in every new thread until 1st Dec so all of you have the chance to join in. I hope that is ok.

So I got the sylvaneth start collecting box, and I've been having a hard time picking a color scheme. Any of you have any recommendations?

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>>50218264
Personally I'm a big fan of autmn birch.

>>50218264
they are shaped a little oddly for it, but redwoods are cool

>>50218278
this is cool too

>>50218264
>>50218278
This. Bright oranges, yellows and reds look awesome.

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>>50218213
thankyou that is really helpful, i got a few other questions if u want to answer them

i see alot of ppl complain about fingermarks, how would u get rid of them, is it after you have shaped it you remove the marks. and other is mainly about texture and shape, main reason i want to get into sculpting with greenstuff is that i want to learn how to make detailed tentacles as im a tzeentch player that likes to make things impossible for myself conversion wise. cheers

pic is a goal for how i want them to look

>>50217003
Crab tank makes me want to collect skiit

Might figure out a way to convert it to Nurgle

>>50218307
>Nurgle Crab Tank
Shame! Begone, heretek!

>>50218301
get some sculpting tools - a set of steel tools on amazon is like 15 bucks or so

for large tentacles, use a copper wire armature to be the skeleton to support the GS around it.

use vaseline on your tools to keep it from sticking.

know that your first few sculpting attempts are going to look really bad.

>>50218315
Im going to convert everything you love to Nurgle

>>50218301
>i see alot of ppl complain about fingermarks, how would u get rid of them, is it after you have shaped it you remove the marks.
Best way to avoid them it to not leave them in the first place.
When you work with your fingers always have them wet. A wet finger is a great tool to smooth soft GS. For hard to reach places or finer parts you might want to get some clayshapers though. These are brushes with a silicone tip you can use to sculpt or smooth GS. I use the hard ones and they served me very well.

>and other is mainly about texture and shape, main reason i want to get into sculpting with greenstuff is that i want to learn how to make detailed tentacles as im a tzeentch player that likes to make things impossible for myself conversion wise. cheers
You can buy tentacle makers or tube tools from Green Stuff Industries or Masq Miniatures and probably other places too. What this means it that these are essentially small plates with a ribbed surface that you can use to make tentacles easily.
You can however also use a comb or any other surface with a fine texture to roll the GS on and give it that characteristic texture.

One that has dried you can then add the smooth other half like in your pictures and add additional detail like suckers or what have you if you want to take it that far. For suckers you'd just have to roll a ball of tiny GS and press a needle pin into it.

>>50218338
Malal will have your head for this!

>>50218346
Serious question, whats your favourite army anon?
I promise I wont Nurgle it you can trust me

>>50218356
your mom

>>50218248
Why the hell not. I'll throw my name in the pot

>>50218356
khornate daemonkin :^)

>>50218248
I kind of want to do this but I don't want my windows smashed in or to be mailed a turd

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints n' get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50218339
wow thats helped alot thankyou,

>One that has dried you can then add the smooth other half like in your pictures
what can u simply add water to it once its dried to reshape/texture it? if so that would be extremely helpful

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will be finished with this bad boy tonight, 3 more to go! Show me your orks, not enough orks

>>50218404
green stuff doesn't "uncure" with water, but the full time to cure is very long as as it partially cures you can go back and work it a bit. It is kind of hard to explain

One big thing though: do NOT buy green stuff from GW. Look up Kneadatite on Amazon. It is the same stuff, but for the same price you get a pound of it rather than an ounce.

>>50218373
Oh boy I cant wait to do a Nurgle conversion on a Bloodletter
>>50218360
Nah your mum

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>>50218433
orks orks orks orks

>>50218452
ya missed a mold line on da kombiskorcha ya git

>>50218433
propa orky

>>50218214
>Tamiya 2mm masking tape
Ordered! Thanks anon.

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>>50218433

>>50217164
The second option. Why but green [aint when I don't need it.

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>>50218433
From ages ago

>>50218214
I'm always afraid that peeling off the masking tape would damage the paint under or next to it.
Never tried tamiya though. Is it save to use?

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>>50217154

My nigga!

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waaaagh pt. 2

>>50218278

This is lovely!
The only thing thats missing is the contrast from the leafs on the ground and the once thats still on the models, Id like to see more leafs on the ground (base work I know...), and have them a bit more orange (airbrush and put all leafs in a plastic bag surrounding, then spray and shake). Other than that, this is some superb stuff!

>>50218550
that is one smug ork

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sneaky orkz is best orkz

>>50218166
It just doesn't look very smooth. I found a really easy way to paint silver models makes them tabletop worthy and they look very clean with very little effort (It's how I do my necrons) which you can apply to iron warriors.

1.Basecoat with black (I prefer brush primer but it doesnt matter)
2. Base in Leadbelcher or equivalant silver. Only on the silver parts!
3. Base your other parts, gun black or dark grey etc
4. Get some Army Painter Dark Tone. Liberally apply this all over the model and let it completely dry.
5. Highlight the edges of the silver in leadbelcher and add to your gun / other layers the yellow.

In addition to this sometimes I will prime the silver parts in black and prime the lighter parts in grey or white. This is why I find brush primer superior.

It's really effective and barely takes any time at all. Will look very smooth without you really doing any fiddly work. You can get a tabletop friendly army very quickly this way and it leaves you plenty of room to really build your highlighting skills from there.

I will try and post some pictures when I get home.

>>50218278
Sweeeeeet

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finally done any suggestions?

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>>50218433
Orks! Orks! Orks!

>>50218248
Is there any rule against going over the suggested value?

>>50218787
Thin your paints. Seriously.

>>50218452
>>50218490
>>50218504
>>50218550
>>50218590
>>50218850
All this dakka makes my heart warm

>>50218865
I don't think such a rule would be necessary. And its not like i could enforce it anyway..
I also doubt someone would complain if he got stuff for $30+ because Anon felt generous.

>>50218787
can you seriously not see anything that needs fixing on this?

>>50218787
Strip it and start practising in other miniatures until you get your paints thin, basically. You seem to have a lot of money so think about getting an airbursh.

>>50218248
>>50218900

I'm an Aussie and if I entered my giftee would probably get three snap together space marines if I was to follow that pricing. The high prices here are basically the only thing holding me back from joining ):

>>50218512
Cool Church... I mean warehouse on the base.

>>50218088
Nice job, but im asuming its not finished right?
Noice work on the gold btw. Can i have some more pics from the side and back?
Never seen this model painted

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints, 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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Soooo, lost my job due to depression related shit. Needed something to fill the days so I got me some DA models and started painting again 15 years after my last attempts. How'd I do?

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>>50219126
2/3

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>>50219130
3/3

>>50218787
Spiderman's triple action web blaster.

>>50218787
I'm calling the cops to report a brutal rape of this miniature.

>>50218787
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints, 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

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progress
lamp a shit

>>50219313

Nice where did you get that statue head on the ground

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>>50218433
bumpin with orks I have (I've painted more since that photo but they're at LGS atm)

>>50219313
Looks like hes falling, center balance is off

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>>50219317
they actually come with the kit, the base is a resin cast. heres another.

>>50219313
desu this model is ugly AF, sculpt is terrible

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>>50219331
hes not glued on yet, i just propped him up for the photo. heres a picture for the scale compared to 40k

>>50218590

Is that ork playing an accordian.

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My first CSM, I'm new to this but I spent quite some time on this one.

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>>50219343
дa

Someone post that image with instructions on how to not take shit photos of minis

Will Scion berret heads fit on shock troops?

>>50219126
>>50219130
>>50219141

Good work anon. I especially like the depth the effect the staining / wash gives on your termies. Maybe thin or layer the red a bit in future? I'm no expert though

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Shitty pics but you get the idea

>>50219495

There will be vines or flowers growing out of the body's holes.

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Thudd gun for my renegades. It's on the small side but this will just be for pickup games. Not like anyone will be targeting the gun itself anyway

Is the process of making/printing custom decals worth it the trouble?

>>50219126
>>50219141
>>50219130
Liking those termies, I think you're doing pretty decent for being 15 years out of the hobby.

I think you could really use some brush pratice/control and the usual thinning and slowly building up the colours and using washes and proper highlighting

Long live the lion my DA brother!

Keep your chin up son, don't let the black dog beat you.

>>50219502
Looks like a Nebelwerfer. I like it!

>>50219328
What a snazzy army, good job

>>50219476
>>50219515
Thanks for the constructive feedback lads, have to admit I struggle with brush control due to meds making me shake like a Rabbi in the Reichstag hence the lack of highlights and fine detail

Anyone ever try the new tint colours they look interesting but how good are they?

>>50218983

cool meme.... i mean shitpost on the thread.

>>50219495
What's the base made out of?

>>50219966

cork sugar coated with gravel

>>50219354
Pretty good. Keep at it and focus on the minor details. A wash would go a long way to add depth, then touch up the reds, then edge highlight.

>>50218977
I'm in the same situation, I've just decided that I might go a little over the limit and even if I don't, it's still a gift that someone is gonna get somewhere else and probably appreciate.

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general consensus on Harambe Holder?

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Had a go at doing AL armour using the feedback clear paints. How'd i do? Also should I go with grown for the straps, or red?

>>50220922
just a super glue like many others...

>>50220937
Looks good. The more well done AL minis i see the more i want to have some myself.

How is the weather in Australia?

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>>50220954
Cloudy

How do I put sot and burns on my guardsmens faces?
I want my plasma and flamer dudes to have fucked up mugs.

>>50221130
Carefully apply pigments, or maybe very carefully sponge on some black/grey paint?

>>50218356
Went to sleep after posting that, my favorite army is Sons of Malice.

Any idea on how to magnetize carnifexes and hive tyrants with the least effort?

I've found a video with green stuff, but I hoped I'd find something a total moron could do

>>50221313
It's literally in the OP.

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I recently picked up the Khador starter set for Warmachine, and I want to drill out the barrel on the Decimator warjack's cannon. The side-to-side portion is already clear, like you see on the right, but the barrel is just solid from there to the tip.

What do you use to drill out a barrel like that, and what should I do to make sure I don't go too far?

>>50220942
Thicker than others. Their regular stuff is almost as thick as some brands gels.

(thicker makes for a bond that is not as strong but also not as brittle)

Well designed cap with a really good anti-clog spike in it.

Hey guys, what colors would you use for asian (japanese) faces/flesh in general? Some kind of khaki maybe?

>>50221406
Use a pin vise to carefully drill it out by hand. Start by making a well-centered hole with a drill bit you know is smaller than you want the final barrel, then switch to a larger diameter bit when you have the smaller guide hole drilled out.

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>>50221480

>>50220922
I prefer Loctite Gel Control myself.

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These took way longer than expected.

>>50221411
>a really good anti-clog spike

That never seems to actually keep the tube unclogged. Just get Loctite, it works better.

>>50221480
Reaper has a nice Asian skintone triad.

In the Infinity Red Veil box the skin tone of the Asian Yu Jing soldiers is done with Vallejo Model Color Medium Fleshtone (#70860) as a base (VMC Flat Earth wash (#70983)), VMC Sunny Skintone (#70845) as Highlight.

>>50221797
these look way better than I'd expected to see in /wip/

>>50221819
>>50221724
Thanks.

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>>50221480
Maybe Rakarth flesh, flesh wash, then Rakarth again as highlight?

It's what I used on my ion hand deathwatch to give it a Eurasian look.

I'm kind of confused
Do i want to invest in an airbrush for <£200, which i'll probably end up using just for priming, or just sticking to spray cans?

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Working on Ahriman.

He's only at basecoat stage. Very fun model to work on.

>>50221934
Do the math.. 170 is like 17 spray cans. Do you think you go through 18+ spray cans in your remaining hobby life? Then the Airbrush is justified if you only prime. If you do more with it (simple stuff like tank camo can be done with cheap airbrushes too) then even more justified.

Also think about how you could prime while its snowing or raining outside..

>>50217342
Followup: Best way to do worn-out Tau armor? Leadbelcher scratches and Typhys Corrosion rust, or...?

>>50221935
smooth basecoat, but needs touching up in a few places.

I think the design on his staff look silly, but that isn't you fault.

>>50221980
Hmm you're probably right
Guess i'll use up the remain cans i got and then pick one up

I've seen this one reccommended for noobs
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/DIY-Tools/Neo-Iwata-gravity-feed-airbrush/B006MTQXPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478890737&sr=8-1&keywords=Iwata+Neo.

Any ideas for a compressor?

What do you guys listen to when working on minis? I'm new-blood and I've come to realise "Hey, pounding rock music isn't actually good for painting along too."

I was listening to battle-reports for a while but I've been lookwarm at best to some of them. I prefer good chemistry between the players and a bit of entertainment if I'm listening just for idle learning.

Right now I'm listening to upbeat piano pieces but they grate after a while.

>>50222086
>podcasts or shows like RLM
>audiobooks
>Pop-Philo channels like Wisecrack
>Chillstep
>battle reports

>>50222057
as long as you get a tank compressor you should be fine. There are a lot of different models.

I've read that lower PSI is easier to control, but higher PSI gives you less problems.

>>50222086
Sometimes I listen to ebooks, sometimes I listen to streams/podcasts about 40k, and occasionally I've listened Duncan Rhodes/Bob Ross while painting.

>>50222086
>Synthwave mixes
>Duncan's tutorials on occasion
>Gorillaz
>Kendrick Lamar

I just pick a video and let autoplay run with it, honestly.

>>50222086
Stan Rogers, Bill Staines, Garnet Rogers, Phil Morissey, Old Blind Dogs, some others.

>>50221934
>>50221980
Also consider if you can have an airbrush setup (you still need some ventilation) and the possible noise from the compressor (some are noisier than others, which could be an issue with roommates or if you live in a condo).

Get a compressor with a tank so you can have consistent PSI, otherwise you won't have a great time.

>>50222086
I've been going through the Horus Heresy series again (on audiobooks this time). I occasionally listen to LPs on YouTube or people on Twitch. Lots of music too (I've been digging the "Post-Hardcore Crash Course" on Spotify recent).

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I don't know if I'll ever field them, but I love the Aberrant model. It makes for a good mutie. Might rebase as renegade Ogryns if their size if close enough to them (running my GSC alongside my renegades to capitalize on cool models and a need for a shitload of dudes)

>>50222151
Good color scheme choice and blending.

>>50222086
Currently Bernard Cornwell audiobooks.

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Wake me up

Vallejo or Army Painter?
I'm getting annoyed at these shitty GW pots, despite 99% of my guide use them

>>50222324
Walking upwards always looks more dynamic than walking downwards.

Looks great either way though.

>>50222086
Movies I've seen before. Podcasts. Albums. Lets plays/no-commentary walthroughs if I'm desperate.

Noise you can ignore easily, but is nonetheless in the background. Lately I've been listening to a lot of Yes and Nazareth.

>>50222350
buy bulk dropper bottles and transfer your GW paints, takes just a couple minutes for each bottle

also don't restrict yourself to just one brand. Each brand has some great colors.

>>50222350
all 3. GW has solid metallics and shades/glazes, vallejo is pretty good all around, I personally haven't used army painter yet but reviews aren't bad. experiment and see which ones of certain brands you like the most, don't limit yourself to one.

>>50222386
>>50222404
So
>Use a mixture of brands
>If airbrush make sure you get a tanked compressor
Any basic hobbying advice? I'm rejoining after about 2 years of nothing due to work

>>50222404
>>50222350

Basically this.

See what your favorite store has in stock or what you can get cheapest. They all are nice.
If you go for Vallejo, avoid their Game Color and Model Color Metallics. Get model/game AIR metallics instead (same price). They are way better. (and also superior to GWs metallics).

There is also P3, Scale75 and a few other nice companies. Again, see whats available for you easily.

>>50222433
Experiment alot. Only because person X says you need to do it in a certain way or you have to use method Y that doesn't mean it can't be done with method or item Z.

>>50218248
I got some Bretonnian stuff sitting around for a lucky anon this Christmas.

>>50222433
>Any basic hobbying advice?
If we're going complete basics of basics hobbying advice, the GW youtube channel is a decent start. They've got clear visual guides for most things you might be looking to do.

>>50222433
if you are getting an airbrush make sure you get a bottle of flow improver and add a little to the point depending on what paint you are putting in. Even super thick paints like p3 can go through your brush great with some flow improver.

>>50222433
>Any basic hobbying advice?

Check the pdfs in the OP.
I think a huge Cool-mini-or-not book is linked there. It has tons of advise.
Also ask. Ask alot. If you aren't certain, just ask in here. Some people might give you a rough answer, but usually someone will help.

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>>50222433
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints n' get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50222463
Try painting a variety of different models/colors when you get the chance. Also avoid white and yellow as primary paint schemes. if youre a beginner.

>>50222447
>>50222463
>>50222470
>>50222475
>>50222480
Thanks anons, appreciate it

>>50222086
podcasts, soundtracks, Helloween or some other music.

Are there any quiet airbrush compressors? Apartment living, very thin walls, et cetera.

>>50221709
Is that something I could find at a Hobby Lobby, or maybe a hardware store?

>>50222546
some low psi tankless compressors are quiet, but they also suck. Any venting solution is going to be louder anyway.

You are going to use some venting right? read the links in the OP to find out what happens if you don't.

>>50222546
There are. Expensive though.
But then, all of them aren't that loud if you aren't buying industrial grade stuff.

I can airbrush and still listen to stuff on the tv without a problem. A vacuum cleaner is louder.

See this video (sadly in german), they show the sound of 4 different compressors.
Starts around minute 7:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGA8kllmMLs

>>50222589
There are craft tools and there are hobby tools. In the end they are pretty much the same, the hobby stuff tends to be more expensive.

GW wants 22€ for their drill
Army Painter has it for like 9,99
Some no-name drill from china costs like 2,50.

They all do exactly the same.

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I'm done with most of my very first regiment of imperial guards.

>>50222546
also, even my 60 psi tank compressor is not that loud, and it cycles on and off automatically. It is only slightly louder than y desktop computer (which has two 120mm fans and a 90mm fan... so it is a little loud)

both are quieter than my dishwasher, but I have the loudest dishwasher ever built and should probably replace it

>>50222653
I bought some drill bits from China once that sucked real bad. Half of them had manufacturing defects and the angle of attack was so shallow that they needed a power tool to actually use them. I buy American made drill bits now, but I still go for generics.

>>50222653
For a recommendation: Lowes (if you have it in your country) stocks basically every style of drill bit imaginable, all of which will fit a 3mm pin vise. And you can get a 3mm drill and every size of bit between 0.5 and 1mm off Amazon for somewhere around $12, plus $2 or so each for a 2mm and 3mm bit. You won't really need much else.

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Now that trump is president will I get shot if I try to play with these?

>>50222937
in you live in bumfuck nowhere maybe, but if you are in a place that actually matters, no

>>50222729
I have some decent Mastercraft drill bits. They were my dad's, now they're mine, and I full expect to be able to pass them on to my kid.

>>50222676
Fine work. Would die beside.

>>50222937
Nah man, I voted for trump, those are nice.

>>50222086
Political Youtube videos. Painting tutorials, eg Next Level Painting and lets plays.

>>50223004
really small (3/32" and smaller) drill bits can wear out if you use them a lot. It is just the nature of these the things that nothing lasts forever.

>>50223073
next level painting has some really good tutorials out there but his memes are sooo strong

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Some touchups to do, and I still want to highlight the gambesons/weapons a bit.. but that'll have to wait until I get the whole gang done up

The Paladin in charge of this little band and his two attendant knights next. They're going to be fun.

The Space Marine has eighteen skulls on his person
also FUCK working with low-bid contractors

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It's time for some COCAINE!

>>50222546
There are, however the pricetag is painful.
I actually own one too, it's an oil-piston compressor.
These are about as loud as a big refrigerator (40 dB), so compared to a membrane compressor they're whisper quiet.
The downside is that they're really heavy (my small one is about 40 pounds) and rather expensive.
You're looking at $400-500 at least for a new one.
2nd hand they'll be cheaper, and if properly cared for they'll last pretty much forever.

>>50223107
NLP is also sponsored by Secret Weapon Miniatures which he doesn't fully disclose, though he has mentioned it a few times on stream.

so don't ever buy secret weapon stuff off his recommendations as he is literally a paid shill

>>50223004
>Fine work. Would die beside.
Thanks a lot!

>>50222937
Nah mate, Hillary's the one who took money from countries that stoned gays and advocated for anti-gay-marriage until she started running, because she needed them votes!

>>50222937
You could fuck your boyfriend on live tv and I wouldn't give a shit.

>>50221130
For burn scars I'd scrape away a bit of the surface you want to scar and then apply a layer of plastic cement. When that has softened the plastic jab that area with a needle until it looks wrinkled.

For soot I'd just go with some careful glazes. If you get it right you can paint the face so that you can leave the creases around the eyes etc clean. That way it doesn't just look like blackface or something.

>>50221313
>I hoped I'd find something a total moron could do
Drill a hole big enough, mix some GS and jam the magnet inside faceing the right direction.
Doesn't get much easier than that.

>>50222086
>"Hey, pounding rock music isn't actually good for painting along too."
Really? Pearl Jam is my... jam.

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>inb4 compensating

>>50222591
If you only use brushed-on paint, do you need venting?

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I made a helm for a Renegade Knight. Cool or cringe? It looked cooler in my head, but it might look better with smaller teeth.

>>50223304
>compensating
Those are tiny hands on that rocket...

>>50223107
I find Kenny's way of speaking and general demeanour very engaging and entertaining. I would get why some people find him annoying but I'm sick of painting tutorials from people who are so fucking monotone and boring.

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>>50223326
>tfw

>>50223345
Isn't vertical mouths full of teeth pretty Chaos?

>>50223326
Might look better with more smaller teeth.
Or if you weren't going for mutated chaos thingy, maybe add some of those arrow braces like on his forhead to tie it in a bit better.

>>50223326
I like it, I mean it's a robut it's not actually going to be eating so the teeth can have that sort of exaggerated look.

>>50223359
Yeah, I'll have to try smaller ones instead. It's just really fiddly making such small stuff, even if they're just triangles.

>>50223326
>>50223345
>>50223359
>>50223369
I just realized the Reaver Titan has basically that look, but with smaller teeth, and it looks terrifying, so I think that's what I'm doing wrong.

>>50223377
I'd recommend making some pointy teeth first. Or use toothpicks or cocktail thingies.
When you have a those just mix up some GS and add the 'gums' along the inside of the mask and stick the teeth in.
On you got them all in there use a sculpting tool to blend the gums into the mask and sculpt it to look a bit more organic and you should have something that looks like the maws on the FW chaos spawns.

>>50223358
True. So are vertical vaginas.

>>50223339
I don't think he is annoying, if just comes across as a little forced

>never "backflow" always "gangsta gumbo"
>never "waste bucket" also "hobo toilet"
>never "tabard" always "cock robe"
>never "going overboard" always "going gangsta"
>"raw dogging" when going straight from the paint pot, etc
>john cena memes everywhere

but he does it for his stream viewers of course. His stream isn't huge, but he knows how to run it and keep it entertaining that's for sure.

>>50217121

Eshin grey->dawnstone->administratum grey

Do any other models have legs I could reasonably use on Crisis/Broadside suits as a "spare parts" substitute?

>>50222151

Great. Mind explaining how you did the red lines?

>>50222937

Your hands are fat and you seem oppressed.

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>>50223507
but anon the unstable design is part of the inferior xenos tech

get some dreadnaught legs maybe. Especially from the plastic contemptors.

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50218787
>Enhance
>Enhance
>Superglue/paint thumb print
I have your ID now, GlopAnon

>>50223726
>he superglued his thumb to his desk???
how does this even happen

>>50221724

Kek

>>50222008

Slavenblight dinge and leadbelcher sponging

What can we use to cover the open canopy on the Stormsurge? A piranha front? I want mine to have a closed canopy for reasons.

Please to be helping me, Anon.

>>50223672
Underrated post

>>50218900
it's just so people don't feel like they got the short end of the stick.
like if someone browsing these threads is some kind of arabian oil prince and sends someone a Questorix Knight.

pretty much just limit the gifts to "1 box" and you'd be good

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>>50217599
bases could be doing with being more reddy brown but fuck it at this point

>>50223644
I cut up a frayed brush to a thin, long bristle and made quick, snaking strokes from the joins outward. Then, wash of carriburg crimson and another of druchii violet part way up. I'd recommend another, thinner, coat of carriburg farther up to smooth out the transition more than what I have done there. I forgot to do it before the picture.

>>50223124
whats the grill mini from?

>>50224404
I love how that question comes up all the time. And i'm not even the guy who painted that group.

Its Alica from Hasslefree. Currently sold out on their website.

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>>50218301
JESUS CHRIST ANON THERE'S A BYDO ON YOUR DESK
That's a sweet work of art there.

>>50218248
>about $3K in 40K stuff sitting around doing nothing while other games get love
I guess somebody could be getting some pewter Aspect Warriors for Christmas. Eldar aren't going to trigger anybody, right?

>>50218248
I pretty much missed the whole secret santa thing last year.
Do people send painted stuff or mostly NIB/NOS kits?

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>>50219367
>Someone post that image with instructions on how to not take shit photos of minis

OK, I'll post this one.

>inb4 someone posts the facetious version of how to do exactly the opposite

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>>50224422
heehee, thanks for answering for me.

It's a nice mini, so I don't blame people asking where it came from. Absolutely tiny in person.

>>50224623
iirc people mostly sent unopened mini boxes

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>>50224623
Unpainted sprues/minis/stuff from the bitz box mostly

I'M BUILDING A WALL

Sprue bricks are pretty handy but fuck me my fingertips look like I fingered a wood-chipper.

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50222937
Looks very nice my man. Airbrushing done right. You better post your harlies in an imgur album or something.

Do you folks think i could make a 200pt Kill-team out of my Ass-salt on Black Reacharound Orks?
I want to get Into this game but i don't have anyone to hold my hand :(

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How would you do polar bear-like fur, mostly white with yellowed tips? My best guess is basecoating in white/off white and drybrushing with something like Tyrant Skull.

I'm getting close to ready to tackle my Wampas for Star Wars Imperial Assault.

>>50218248
Is anybody doing this for Sweden? Does the item need to be brand new, or can it be something unique or rare?

>>50225121
Look up how GW paints Space Yiffs. I'd say a soft Brown/khaki as base, then a brighter yellow-brown drybrush, then an edge drybrush/highlight with an off-white. Post your progress when you achieve it!

I'm about to start a Corsair army alongside the Dark Eldar force I've got and was wondering if anyone had created corsairs using Kabalites as a base? I'm going to make my own wings/jump packs from plaster card and moulds so that can be made more dark eldarish, probably magnetised so I can remove em and use as standard Kabalites.

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>>50219328
>>50218850
>>50218550
>>50218504

Am I too late for WAAAAAAAGGH!?

>>50223129
Where did you get those guitars from?

>>50218248
Okay I'll bite, I've got some old metal minis I'm sure deserve a better home than my drawers of purgatory. Do you pull these completely out of a hat for matching people or is there a method? My poorfag wallet can only take so much over the hobby itself.

>>50222151
Mind telling me how you did that carapce armor or whatecer that is on there arms?

>>50225171
I already got a message from a Anon from Sweden.

>>50225586
>Do you pull these completely out of a hat for matching people or is there a method?

Somewhat random. But depending on the number of people from a certain country/continent (Australia comes in mind) i try to match those if i have more than 2 guys from that region. I want to avoid "A gifts B and B gifts A" situations. So as long as there are 3 i will match these 3 to keep shipping costs and time low.
Hopefully i described it in a way that makes sense.

Some people wrote what they want to gift, others wrote what they wish for, so i might match some of these too if it fits.

>>50225750
Right, good to know!

>>50225601

It looks like shades of grey done extremely well, possibly NNM

>>50218248
is the presents being bought, or are unused minis an option? The image says buy, but >>50225586
and a few others are saying unused things and I'm lost.

>>50226216
The image doesn't say buy, it says "get". That could mean "get them from your bitz box" as well as "get them from a store".
Don't think to much about it Anon. Just send something nice and if you happen to have some unused things around nobody will complain.

>>50226216
(As the guy you quoted midway through) Of the two things I'm looking at offering up, one of them has been untouched and it won't take me much effort to strip my old paint off the other. I'm sure an unused be fine, as long as what you're looking to gift is in a suitable condition and you're not being cheeky with it, like a solitary grot.

>>50225121
Highlight from light grey to offwhite to white, then put on some yellow glazes

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>>50226245
>>50226256
thanks for clarifying guys, I was super lost.

thoughts? First mini I've ever assembled, bought a lot used and cleaned/put him back together first

Guy in the 40k general reminded me of a project I never finished,

anyone have pictures of a guy having fused with his mount?

I know there are examples of characters basically being little growths in giant monsters and I can't think of what to put into google to find this,

Any help?

I bought a pack of 30 bases and promptly lost one. I know there were 30 to begin with.

>>50225390
bootiful

>>50220922
it's my go-to for non plastic glue situations, fast as fuck drying in my experience, I only ever use the exact formula as the one pictured (standard super glue)

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>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

okay im about to put some pray varnish on my models any suggestions what i should watch out for and more importantly any tips what could help to make this easier ?

>>50226853
shake it up a lot or it can dry opaque it will will make you sad

>>50226961
alright shook it really got and sprayed them for about 2 or 3 seconds. do i have to spray them from all angles or is a very light coat on the most pronounced parts enough ?

>>50227179
you will want all angles, but keep it thin

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50226128
>>50225601
Lolno. I had primed them grey, washed with nuln oil, then drybrushed in a sideways motion to try and keep as much of the recesses dark as I could.

Wanted to thank the Anons from the last thread for teaching me the ways of the chinaman.

How do you decide which paints to use?

I want the skin of my tyranids to be (light) greyish but can't decide on which paint to use.

Also, although I've watched Duncan's tyranid videos im not sure I won't fuck it up. Especially on the step after shading

I saw some reviews of people saying the GW mold line remover tool is actually good. No way anyone actually uses it right? this has to be just a meme...

I always struggle with mold lines no matter how smooth it looks and feels somehow there is always one at some weird ass angle I missed that of course shows up while painting.

>>50216814
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50227364
I use it, and I like it. Has a nice weight to it, too. With the 'blade' was slighty thinner, hard to get the cramped spaces with it.

>>50227364
I'm sure it's a good mold line remover, but it's way overpriced. You can buy the Squadron tool for half the price.

>>50227364
Yeah, I have one. Most of the gw tools I wouldn't suggest, especially the files. The remover is fine, but if you're price sensitive find alternative options.

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>>50227364
>No way anyone actually uses it right? this has to be just a meme...

Believe it or not, I actually do. It's a good solid tool - both physically and metaphorically speaking - for removing mold lines on both metal and plastic models. As an added plus, it's not sharp like a hobby knife, so if you slip or drop it, you won't impale yourself.

>>50227618
>I'm sure it's a good mold line remover, but it's way overpriced.

Can't fault you there, anon. It was pretty steep.

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Last time I posted my work I was told to add some orange to highlights because the red on my armor was blending together too much and to get a light box. I did both of those and wanted to get more feedback on both painting and photography.

Man-O-War Drakhun I have just started basing.

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>>50227843

After uploading the last picture I realized these are gigantic. Sorry about that, but I already put all my stuff away for the night.

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>>50227861

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>>50227874

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Anybody need a tow?

Is there a better way to basecoat, than to spray?

I'm not against spraying, except that it can sometimes ruin the detail of a model

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>>50228248
airbrush or gesso

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>>50228248
Gesso is brushed on and keeps all the detail despite going on thick.

>>50228248
>except that it can sometimes ruin the detail of a model

You mean sometimes YOU ruin the detail of a model. If you want idiot-proof spray basecoating, use an airbrush.

>>50228365
model dependent, sprays can fuck up completely, no matter how good you are

I'm working on some foam rock faces for terrain. What is a better way of prepping them for paint; just brushing on a bunch of gesso, or coating them in one or two coats of glue and then spraying them?

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>>50228248
this is also really good, and not quite as fumey as most general purpose primers

>>50228377
>model dependant
lol what? it's literally as simple as
>wait for good conditions
>shake can
>spray a bit on flat surface to test
>if all good spray model
>motion left to right with the can quickly while holding spray down
>rotate model and repeat

as long as your spray is how it should be and you use it correctly it wont fuck the model up, it's not model dependent. An Airbrush only trumps primers because the coat it sprays is less aggressive and more of a mist, meaning your end primer coat, is a lot thinner than a spray can.

>>50228392
>not quite as fumey
why take out the fun part?

>>50228377

If your spray fucks up the model, it's because YOU fucked up, either by buying the wrong type of spray, or spraying incorrectly.

>>50228442
More of a classy smooth buzz

>>50221750
I thought super glue was all the same

till I discovered Loctite Gel Control

>>50228492
>using super glue that is crazy thick, leaving huge gaps, breaks off easy
I bet you use it for plastic on plastic joins too.

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>>50228248
This stuff. Brush on primer, comes in a bunch of colors too.

What's the best glue to use for just all-purpose? I'm going a lot of painting before assembly, as well as mixing metal, plastic, resin, and greenstuff. Also I may want to disassemble given models in the future, if that's even possible (are some glues dissolvable in things like simple green?)

>>50226634
>the entire sprue is gone

>>50218248
Were there any reports of foul play last year like >>50218373 suggested? I'd be down for sure, but there's no telling who might drop in scrolling past the board.

>>50218278
How'd you paint them?

>>50218787
You aren't done until you strip it completely with Methylated Spirits, repaint it and this time you cheeky fucker;

THIN YOUR PAINTS

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Base color + wash DONE!
Also, how do you keep your basing from crumbling apart? mine is coming undone at the speed of light right now...

>>50229911
mold lines!

use CA glue (superglue) instead of PVA glue (elmers glue), and coat the base in a layer of PVA after.

>>50229911

White glue
Basing material (sand for me)
Let it dry
Watered down white glue
Let it dry
Prime base and miniature

This way works best for me.

>>50228835
Isn't brush-on primer infamously uneven?

>>50229928
yeah, i caught them too late. but theres literally a cloak covering all of those, so i aint too worried.
>>50229943
Sounds about right, i'll do that next time! thanks!

>>50229911

Did you just add black paint on the creases instead of letting a wash do the work?

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>>50226634
You thinned the sprue too much and it winked out of existence.

>>50218787
This is unfortunate... I'm not even memeing here, you need to thin your paints. Strip it and try again man.

>>50228835
I use Citadel Imperial Primer on occasion (when it gets too cold to spray prime). I thin it down like any paint and apply two thinned coats. Spray or airbrush priming is definitely smoother, but here's what it looks like with some paint slopped on.

>>50229977
nope, its a heavy wash. i like a lot of contrast, nothings highlighted as of yet. But when it will it's gonna POP

>>50229982
Primer comment meant for >>50229952

>>50229987
While Im not going to disagree about the pop effect, I think you need a less intense wash to smooth out the transition. As of now it looks like you just took black paint and tried to do shadows by hand. The result of course being that it is a sharp transition and the lines are uneven.

File: 15056240_10103807084484238_7282620415751713308_n.jpg (46KB, 480x480px) Image search: [Google]

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Batch of vehicles for Bolt Action.

Might get more ambitious next time. Chipping around the corners, mud spatters, etc.

>>50230036

It seems like you have your core skills down, the camo is smooth and sexy. Next time or maybe later you really should experiment a bit.

>>50230036
>Dat StuG
HNNNNG!

>>50218248
Sweet, I was wondering if it would be organised again, it was a great thing last year!

>>50229755
Nah, I think everyone got something last year. According to my anon, I almost got a dildo with my Farseer and my metal skulls, but then he got hungry and he didn't have enough money after buying take away.

>>50227884
next time resize the pictures, and make a collage of said pictures in a photo manipulating software, cant see shit.

>>50216814
>Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50230347
What would an appropriate size be for the pictures? 500 tall?

>>50230373
I usually try to get them to 1k on the biggest side at most

File: russwagon.jpg (490KB, 2018x747px) Image search: [Google]

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I been orkin'

File: battlefort done.jpg (457KB, 2119x599px) Image search: [Google]

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>>50230492
and I do mean orkin' hard rather than hardly orkin'

>>50230492
>>50230501
Jolly good work anon.
The russ wagon makes me think of a mastodon.

>>50230572

New thread

>>50230572

>>50227345
Catalogfag here.
Gotcha, brother. Now go and participate in secret Santa.

>>50228237
that looks amazing but what the fuck is happening with that paint? is it primer? whats the deal man