WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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>mfw photos look like shiet and looks much better irl
Or am I just retarded?
Working on my Mighty Lord of Khorne, not a showcase model, just plain TTS.

Not sure about the base though, is it too much red and too less contrast?

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Daily reminder to thin your paints, you wankers.

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>>50182571
other angle

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>>50182571
Back view

>>50182571
I'm not too keen on the orange going over the side of the base, I prefer just a solid black rim.
Other than that he looks pretty cool.

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Posted this in the old thread, but it died too quick.

How's the face looking? I think I am starting to get a hang of eyes.

>>50182617
Yes side of base is not finished, I want to do it dark grey but I dont have a proper color yet, as I have to base 40 Reavers and more stuff as well...

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Made a bit more progress on my Purgatori conversion after a few months of neglect. The armour, boots, and hair get some volume, flesh is done but for a final highlight on the face and some shading on the inside of the wings. Going to play with some glazes on the sword to get it looking all full of eldritch power, going to bring the boots and armour up to a deep purple up to where the light hit them. And finally the magical flame in her hand will be picked out.

Hopefully have her done next week when my Lady Death conversion fodder arrives from Hassle Free.

>>50182618
Looks pretty solid, maybe some more highlighting in the really high areas like eyebrows and cheekbones would make the face pop a little more. Eye looks okay to me, the white adjacent to the nose a tiny tad too big? But that's just nitpicking, on the table an army will look really cool.

>>50182646
It may be the color correction of your camera, but the red looks pretty flat to me

>>50182571

>photos look like shiet

I've often found even shitty photos can help me, not helpful for those trying to give advice, though.

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My first attempt at painting 10mm scale stuff, very early days yet.
I'm thinking of repainting over the skull, it's turned out a little too cartoony.

>>50182665
It's just the picture, the red looks fine in person. I just need to unfuck myself and learn how to take better pictures and make a quick light box.

>>50182673
Maybe just try painting over the red eyes with black.

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Making progress, still left the banner skeleton thing, the face and a lot of little details, but im loving the model.

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Ok, I'm going to attempt to assemble my stormcast eternals today. I have never done this before.

Any tips? Mainly things to NOT do?

>>50183106
Give your minis a rinse in room temperature water and pat them dry with a towel while they're on the sprue. Gets the mold-release agent and any dust off.

If you have nub marks, clean them up before assembly. You don;t want to stress the assembled mini too much, especially if you're using something like super glue that will come apart.

Always do a quick dry fit before you apply glue/cement.

If you're using plastic cement, put it on both parts, and press together firmly. You don't need to clamp them in a vise, but having some pressure will held the melted plastic fuse properly. Always give the joints a few seconds of pressure before letting go and moving on to the next thing.

Once you're fully together, give your mini's time to dry before priming them, you don't want to seal in wet glue/cement.

DO NOT touch you minis with wet glue/cement on your finger, let it dry or wipe it off. Otherwise you might leave finger prints, and those are a bitch to take care of.

Don't go too heavy on super glue, you don't want it oozing out of joints.

Most importantly: relax, your first mini's will never be perfect. Enjoy the hobby. Mistakes are 100% ok.

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Progress on the leman russ, began adding dirt and weathering, gonna try out using pigments tomorrow, any tips? Sorry for shitty photo

>>50183106

THIN YOUR PAINTS

>>50183151
Thank you for the detailed post, I'll try my best.

>>50183193
Got it, I'm not painting them today but I'll make sure to thin them when I do.

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lol my FLGS are arseholes

>>50183209
Also, remove mold lines before assembling! Just take the edge of an xacto knife and scrape over it (perpendicular) until u can't see it or feel it with ur fingernail anymore.

>>50183170
It looks like Edelweiss from the Valkyria Chronicles game. Vewy nice

>>50183241

Right, I got the citadel mouldline remover tool.
It's probably not necessary but I was already paying a shitload of money so might as well pay a bit more.

>>50183311
>>50183151 here, I like using the edge of a sharp hobby knife, but the tool works too.

If you have mold lines on thin parts, make sure you support them well with as much of your hand as you can without being in the way. I don't think storm cast have this issue so much, but I've never built them so I could be wrong.

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I threw money at a kickstarter and got three of these. They're cool, but now I have no idea how I want to paint them. Really not feeling scheme scheme that shows up in other photos from the manufacturer.

>>50183237
I'm moving to Portsmouth in January. How is the scene there?

If i wanted to start using an airbrush, because i fucking hate how thick paint can be at times - like spray
Where do i start?

>>50183668
im very early stages of the hobby and only been there 3-4times, but its really friendly. both aos and 40k is popular there

>>50183757
I also would like to know this.

>>50183757
>Where do i start?
Buy an airbrush and a compressor.
Seriously though, read some guides. Several hobby forums have guides on this subject.

>>50183170
One of the best Russes i have seen. Good work anon.

>>50182951
thats a really nice gold

>>50183170
Really nice, how'd you do the weathering? I painted a chimera and posted it a while backa nd would love to do something like your weathering.

>>50183817
Thoughts on this senpai?
https://miniarmyhugetimesink.wordpress.com/2014/05/15/so-you-want-to-airbush-a-beginners-guide-part-1/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBVCOblKgKM
is anyone gonna pick this up to scan?

>>50183106
Read the instructions very carefully before you put something together in the wrong order

>>50183279
Thanks! Kinda looks like it yeah
>>50183919
Thank you! Still lots of work to be done
>>50183995
Thanks, Nuln oil/Agrax earthshade washes and drybrushing with a mix of mournfang brown and skag brown. Rust effects are still wip, thats just doombull brown so far, paint thinned to a milk consistensy and patiently dappling the brush on the model. Gotta make it brighter tho

>>50183170
May i know how you made the tracks?

Does anyone know of any techniques that make it look like a mini is bursting through the ground?

>>50184340
Crop and rotate your pic, Your white shelf works like a lightbox but consider another lightsource, Bit hard to make out the models but the purple seems smooth and has a nice hue, the gold looks like it needs a wash and a highlight, But keep posting. I've quit /tg/ except for these threads but people keep forgetting to critique instead of just pointless bashing or praising.

>>50184514
Thanks homie, which wash do you suggest for the gold tho?

>>50184461
Primed black, drybrushed with Tin Bitz, then drybrushed edges with Sycorax Bronze, then a nuln oil wash, after which a light drubrush with mournfang brown

>>50184514
>people keep forgetting to critique instead of just pointless bashing or praising.
end the hugbox, make /tg/ great again.

>>50184483
Cut parts of the mini you dont want, cut parts of the bases where the mini should emerge from, put plasticard under it, glue the mini on the plasticard.

>>50184529
Not the homie, but it depends on the result you want.

Agrax Earthshade or Nuln Oil depending on the look you want.

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Slight update from my post past week. I'm still tweaking with my bronze Dark Eldar; they still aren't coming out as epic as I'd envisioned them. Here are the first five, done to a tabletop standard.

Yes, I cropped the pictures this time.

>>50183650
I remember looking at that kickstarter. Have you built any of them yet?

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And a detail on the squad leader.

>>50184544
Alright I'll hit them again when I reach a stopping point on the Land Raider I'm working on

>>50184533
I honestly hate it, you either need to be really good or really bad, and its just for (You)s at this point and not critique

>>50182571
>photos look like shiet and looks much better irl
Photos tend to have very stark lighting and close angles which make the color differences and patchiness of highlights and drybrush very obvious. You're generally looking at a picture that's larger than the mini is in real life. Plus when looking at the mini in normal lighting at even moderate distances thing tend to naturally blend more.

That said photos can help you identify errors and problems to fix. Unfortunately most people are taking a picture atThe time they are mentally finished with a mini and don't want to see more work to do.

>>50183106

Finished the lord-celestant.
It was nerve-wracking.
The fucking thing wouln't stick to the base.
Also, I managed to clip the sword's guard.
It was tiny and I didn't notice it. I clipped it from the other side as well so at least it doesn't look weird. But still.

JUST

>>50184568
i like it, what paints you use for base. also what technique for cracked earth look seen many differnt ways to do it

>>50184631

Pretty simple. I'm using a very heavy application of Argellan Earth, one of the GW specialty paints. Dries to a crackle finish. Once that's done I wash it with Agrax Earthshade mixed with Nuln Oil. You can get various effects based on the thickness of the first layer and what you place on top of it.

>>50184545
>>50184568
I would consider doing any combination of the following:

* make the weapons a different color
* add a silvery edge highlight
* use a wash that's a bit off color, like drauchi violet, then repaint the bronze to taste
* paint random armor panels a different color to breakup the bronze

The main issue you're having here is a lack of contrast, the paint job is technically very well done, but the color scheme needs a third color somewhere.

>>50184649
oh cool

>>50184617
You have to use super glue to base it, and it needs to be held for at least 30 seconds to dry properly. At least this has been my experience.

>>50184529
>>50184544
I'll add Reikland Fleshshade as an option as well as I personally I like the gold a bit more red. Then a lighter gold as first highlight and something more silvery as top highlight.

>>50184590
Because it's easier to go "awesome dude" or "KYS dude" than to actually come up with ideas for improvement.
People actually posting WIPs and being ignored in favor of shitposting and banter makes me mad.

>>50184545
I think the bronze really need a strong highlight. Ideally edge highlighting, but they're angular enough that a careful drybrush could work too. Something like Runefang Steel. A recess(not all over) shade of Agrax Earthshade could help too. For the green I think they could all use a nice dark wash of Agrax, Argonian Camoshade or Nuln Oil. Right now the just seem to splotchy. Even a Green glaze might help.

I like the scheme, but although you have color contrast I think you need more value contrast (light and dark) to make it pop.

>>50184564
Yeah, got one fully built. Basic building is pretty quick to put together, but then there's popping out whatever windows and doors you want, adding ladders, etc. Go together easily with a little PVA, have left the roof removable so I can get at the insides. The other two I have are just the basic boxes right now, still need to customise. Not sure if I'm going to bother making them optionally stackable or not. Will see what I can do with the walkways that came with them first, but even then multi-level interior movement is going to be a pain in the arse, even when playing Kill Team.

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Any tips on painting hordes of small guys? I've got twenty plague monks to get through. I'm a slow painter, it took me two weeks to o this screaming bell (best of my ability) but I lack the skill to paint these itty bitty rats to this level without it taking months.


Pic related bell.

>>50184803
>block in colors
>highlight
>dip
>???
>KILL-KILL THE MAN-THINGS!!!

>>50184874
Alright I'll try that...I WANT TO REMOVE STORM THINGS, AND BEAST THINGS, SND SCALE THINGS!

>>50184803
Do them in batches. Try to figure out the fewest colors necessary. These are rank and file if their doodads can be painted the same color as something else reasonably, do so. Pick base colors that can take the same wash so you can do an all over wash in one step. Luckily Skaven are great for this. Skaven skin, fur, dirty cloth, and dirty metal can all look good with a wash of Agrax or Reikland. The dirtiness means you should also be able to get away with some drybrushing to highlight the robes. Just don't make it too heavy, you don't want them looking grainy.

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Greenstuff present because I fucked up during assembly, honestly. If I want to make this into a lava-styled base, what should I use to make the actual lava? Planning on the thicker-formula astrogranite for on the cork terrain. (Should I use the texture terrain paint on camouflaged parts of the model too?)

>>50185036
My plan right now is to base in castellan, wash with agrax all over and layer on staken for the robes. Cadian into kislev for the skin and rebirth flesh for any bandages.


Another question, a friend of mine got some plague be area and based them with corax white, but the models look grainy when compared to chaos black ones. Is this just the white paint? We bought it from a local hobby store that has huge sales on gw stuff.

Yes we wash our minis.

First model I have assembled in about 10 years.

Also somewhat of a conversion at that with the Tartaros Combi Bolter instead of the ones it came with.

>>50184601
What this anon said.
Photos will always make it look worse, but they're also a pretty good tool for improving your work.

I like this paintjob a lot.

>>50185090
Sick invisible paint, bro.

>>50182951
God, watching your progress on this has been really inspiring.

>>50185059
Clean up your sprue nubs at very least, man.

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>>50185090
and also forgot the image

I'm leaving the head, second shoulders and dick guard off until I got the main model painted because I don't think I'll get the details otherwise.

>>50185148
Most of them are cut flat, actually. I did the assembly on my break at work and the base just now.

>>50185059
>what should I use to make the actual lava?

actual lava

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>>50185157
pic 2

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>>50185278
pic 3

>>50185086
No the white should come out just as smooth as the black. Some brands are more susceptible to this than others, but Citadel is usually pretty good. Graininess usually means that the paint is actually drying slightly in the air before it even hits the model which is most often caused by weather conditions. Most people spray outside and if it's cold and humidity is low this can easily happen. Try to spray at more moderate temps when there's more humidity. Or if you have to try spraying a little closer to the model.

The best thing you can do is test the spray on an empty sprue or some cardboard first to see how it looks. Remember you can always just strip them with Super Clean/Simple Green and try again.

>>50185447
>Most people spray outside and if it's cold and humidity is low this can easily happen. Try to spray at more moderate temps when there's more humidity.

In itself higher temperature makes the paint dry faster. But if you have a strong connection locally between hot and humid and cold and dry the humidity can overpower that.

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The land raider

>>50185447
For what it's worth, varnish is a lot more susceptible to grain-drying than primer. Just a word of warning. Totally didn't have my beautiful marines that've been complimented in the past by every player I've faced fucked up by primer graininess...

>>50185096
>>50184601
Thanks Anons, I guess its the mirror syndrome :)
I think I'll do pictures of painting steps in the future

>>50185059
Check the lord in post #2, I painted the recesses between the cork like lava and like the look of it. Also tried some 3D effect with greenstuff, but it doesn't improve it to justify the amount of work

>>50185507
True. I'm biased by the issues where I live. Too high temps and humidity can also be a problem.

If the weather where you live is really uncooperative you can set up a spray booth inside your house or just use brush on primer.

>>50185555
I have not used spray on varnish ever since ruining an entire squad of marines when I was a kid. I paint it on by hand now.

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How do I improve this stone texture? Firsttime painting one, based it with Abbaddon Black on Imperial Primer, then put on a layer of Codex Grey so far.

Was thinking maybe with a bit of a Badab Black or Devlan Mud wash? Highlighting the cracks and corners with Skull White? Or first and foremost adding more grey to make it a more solid grey and then work from there?

>>50185622
Just the plain basics does sound good. Get it a nice, smooth, even grey. Shade and highlight. Probably going to take more than just a wash to shade it well.

>>50184617

Aaaaand I can't do it. I can't fucking do this anymore.
It's extremely hard, those things are too fucking tiny, I can't fucking glue them, it makes me so nervous it makes me fucking tremble. I don't even want to think about painting them.

I paid 175€ for all the stuff. But it's ok, I won't feel anything in a bit. Bye.

>>50185714
Stop attentionwhoring you cunt, practice makes perfect

>>50185714
Maybe you should buy some dirt cheap figs of something off eBay to practice with?

>>50185622
Either do a recess wash, or wash it and the repaint the base grey leaving the shade in the recesses. Then do an edge highlight with a light grey. Don't go all the way to white immediately. Mix your Grey and white if you don't want to buy a light grey pot. After that decide if you want to do a pure white highlight on just the corners.

>>50185622
looks like you gotta thin your paints next time

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>>50185660
>>50185818
Did the wash, repainting some grey and then some highlighting with light grey (which is hard to capture on a photo, no matter how I turn the model). Think it looks pretty damn good, for my standards. Thanks for the tipps.

>>50186187
It's thinned. The reason it looks so thick in places is because it just kind of clustered in some spots.

>>50185622
>>50186369

Start painting some thin lightning cracks with white to make it look like marble. That's the most obvious way to make it look like stone. You should drybrush instead of edge highlighting since stone is one of the few times drybrushing is actually appropriate. The dusty texture will make it look rougher.

Also resize your images.

>>50186369
i see, maybe do some cleaning up with a knife before painting then?

>>50182595
>>50182571

Skeletor?

>>50186488
https://youtu.be/4HAUzVJPM2g

>>50186431
I'll try the small cracks tomorrow. And true, drybrushing sounds like a good idea to give it a rougher texture since it does still look a bit too clean for a broken pillar.

>>50186454
Cleaning uneven parts will be difficult, my servitors are made of metal.

>>50185622
Do a drybrush on it including flat surfaces. Will look crumbly and dry like stone. Not to use for a marble effect though

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Several days of painting in, but he's coming together

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>>50186802
The rider

>>50184094
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FoxHunter-KMS-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushes/dp/B004XP7K9W

Just go with a starter kit like this, it got the basics (mainly a piston compressor with tank and gravity-fed dual-action brush) with is more than enough for a beginner. And you wont mind much if you break it like I did.

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Sup.

I'm going to be making a Juggernaut riding sorcerer (it looks cool as hell I know it's a bit of a mental reacharound just work with me here) to compliment my 5 other juggernauts (they're bikers but every bike in my army was replaced with a juggernaut) and juggerlord. The normal juggernaut riders use the Skullcrusher legs but I'm wondering if anybody has any experience with biker legs, or if converting marine legs has worked out better for you.

Will post pics to those interested or can help me out.

Pic related though.

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Gonna pick up the burning of Prospero box at some point so I thought I'd throw a model together out of my bits box and test a Thousand Sons paint scheme. How did I do?

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>>50187317

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>>50187334

>>50187317
>>50187334
>>50187342
nicely done Anon

>>50184341

I have the first one, the thing I absolutely hate about it is that he skips steps or glosses over the process to the point of having to play guessing games by darting your eyes back and forth between pics

evidently he's more detailed on his social media outlet, or so I'm told

that being said, I kinda want that exclusive mini.

>>50185059
liquid greenstuff.

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Hi WIP,

I found online this color scheme which I really like.
I'm a total ass when it comes to painting, how would you go on about this (maybe with the white a tad more grayish?)?

Thanks for your help

>>50187754
Base coat with whichever shade of grey takes your fancy and then wash with a watered down druchi violet. Should do the job.

>>50187004
The rider legs fit the model better IMO and since it's all chaos it blends with a marine model nicely. Do a dry fit with both to see which you like more.

How much difference does nuln OO make, and do I apply it before, or after transfers on a Knight?

>>50187822
Nuln oil, stupid autocorrect

>>50187822
If used properly, a lot. Transfers are always the last thing you do unless you have something very specific you want to do to modify them

>>50187822
A ton. And before transfers. Transfers are done last aside from any blending/weathering of the transfer itself.

>>50182545

So i JUST got back into painting warhammer again, dropped 120 into a pack of Dark Eldar, paints and brushes.

My question is are just normal paints enough to create decent looking miniatures? Do i need oils or other supplies to make my painting POP.

Also should I be painting my miniatures as separate parts or painting them when they are fully assembled? Im having trouble painting underneath some of the weapons because they are so close to the body.

>>50187919

Also if anyone has any beginner tips including how to properly thin your paints (it seems that if I dip my brush into water and then the paint pot, the paint is way to watery.) that would be great.

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progress! dry fitting again to see how it's going to look. i need to get some rubber bands

>>50187796
Thanks.

I have a hard time choosing the grey paint as it still should look.."biological?"
Most greys are very stone-y or metallic it seems.

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>>50187948
i needs some alignment, the forgeoworld top and frontpanel are oke, the plastic top plate and the plastic doors are warped, ah well i'm still liking this build

>>50187943
Check out the painting tutorials on GW's youtube page. They're great and explain things well.

https://www.youtube.com/user/GamesWorkshopWNT

>>50187919
>My question is are just normal paints enough to create decent looking miniatures? Do i need oils or other supplies to make my painting POP.
Acrylics and acrylic washes are all you'll need. Avoid Oils or Enamels unless you know exactly what you're doing.

>Also should I be painting my miniatures as separate parts or painting them when they are fully assembled?
That's often helpful. Some people do it and some people don't.

>>50187943

Don't put water in the paint pot. Use a palette. Seriously.

Anyone remember that sad fucker who mixed a whole bunch of water straight into his paint pots effectively ruining all his paints? I seem to remember he was asking around in WIP around 2012 or something.

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banshees
wip

>>50187948

Ugh, I need to build this exact kit too and I'm not looking forward to it. Luckily I sold the old one I had from 2012 when their molds were worn out and vehicles fit together like shit and bought another one earlier this year during Brexit price drop. Hopefully it'll go together decently.

>>50182545
Speaking of nuln oil I spilled two fucking pots within 20 minutes of each other
One of them was gloss :(

Anyone know any good bronze spray paints? Doing minotaurs and I'm lazy

>>50189483

Even an untrained monkey knows not to press the electrified button a second time.

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>>50182545
how do i paint "olive skin" for my Pardus 8th Armored /wip/

The book says they have black hair and olive skin. Im picturing Italians? Is that right?
pic related

>>50189512
(You)

This is gonna sound dumb, but which paints do I thin?

Base?
Layer?
shade?

>>50189712
All but shade.
Apply shade sparingly, don't let it pool up

>>50189712
all paints outside of things like shades. (glazes are optional) this includes primer, and airbrush paints, 99% of the time. Don't pile it in, when thinned, apply a coat, wait for it to dry, and apply another coat.

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Starting highlighting now. Still need to tackle the cape.

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>>50189483
Are you retarded?

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So I've been digging through my cupboard getting my hobby stuff out and ready for when I finish my uni degree in 3 weeks. All that study time will be able to be used to complete 6000 points of orks and 3000 of crimson fists.

I found a Kommando nob I forgot I made. What do you guys think?

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>>50190029
And heres the Warboss

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>>50182673
Reworked the skull a bit and i'm happy now

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How heretical is this?
My excuse is that valhallans like skull ornaments (skull belt buckles, cuffs, hat and collar pins)
Been converting my second squad of valhallans a little bit to make them not be such obvious duplicates. Waiting on a nice bolt pistol to come in so he looks way different from my other seargant. Normal model has his chainsword in the other hand.
Does it look ok?

>>50190627
it's the imperium, if it's not covered in skulls you're doing it wrong.

>>50190627
you gotta get him to hold a bottle of wine so it looks like he's toasting to a victory

>>50190655
That's a genius idea, but I have no idea how to use greenstuff outside of hoods and straps

>>50189722
>>50189741
well shit, looks like i fucked up my first two models.

Lesson: dont try to learn to paint at 2:00am

>>50190627
>How heretical is this?

Chainswords? They're standard issue dude.

>>50187317
what process did you use to get that red?

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First time painting a mini. Still got to do highlights, but I am digging this Xenobane theme. 1/2

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>>50191023
2/2

Defiantly need some practice and some better paint brushes, but I'm getting the hang of it.

>>50191023
looks really neat, good attempt for a first time.
the paint does look a little bit thick though, next time just add a little more water

>>50190900
>Based black
>Zenthial highlight white
>Apply rub n buff to entire model
>highlight with runefang steel
>Wash with carroburg crimson
>Coat of tamiya clear red
>Final coat of Tamiya satin coat to dull down.

>>50191042
Yes thinning paints is a little tricky to get down at the moment. How much is too much, how much is too little, but can be fixed with practice. I'm also going to blame my priming, I feel I went a little too think on it as well.

>>50191044
>>Apply rub n buff to entire model

Forge World pls go

>>50191067

You will learn to quickly and easily thin the proper amount once you've practiced enough. You will stumble on the right consistency after hitting it enough times. Do note that you should practice thinning liberally, so that you can actually find this magical consistency. If you just under-thin constantly and never truly thin your paints enough, you'll always have too thick paints.

A bad prime job also ruins an entire paintjob so you're right about that too. This is why I always buy only the best brands of primer even if they cost $10 or $15 a can like Tamiya or Army Painter, although some cheap brands are also very good, I also make sure I read the labels to see how far I need to be spraying with this particular brand, and make sure to practice so I don't do something stupid like spraying too close or too far and then whining about it and then going online and screaming about how the brand sucks when everyone else is using it fine.

>>50184650
>>50184698

Thanks for the critique anons. I'm already washing down the dark bronze with a yellow ink. My original plan was to basecoat all of these in Screamer Pink (yes, really) and topcoat them with brass to get a better depth of color. I did one like that; it looked awesome but took three times as long to complete.

Will see about highlighting the armor and such, maybe with silver and then washing with violet. I've got some wyches in the pipeline, so I can work the violet in somehow. I'm comfortable with the sotek green in the guns and cloth bits.

>>50191137
Exactly. I'm just learning all this as we speak. Luckily I took the advice of people and went with metal models for my first paint jobs. In case I don't like them I can keep stripping with ease and keep practicing.

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Unsure which head to go with this. I like the helmet with the long spikes and trim it gold, but I also think the unhelmeted head on the far left may also look good.

Thoughts?

>>50191245
Spikes

>>50191023
>that trigger discipline

Why have I never noticed that before?

>>50191284
Because they are the most operator.

>>50191245
>idiots with shit paintjobs asking for stupid advice don't resize their 10 MB jpgs
>guy with good paintjob asking for legitimate advice posts too small image

WHY DO YOU DO THIS TO ME WIP

Anyone got decent tutorialson how to paint skin? Got a few sergeants and servitors that still need their fleshy bits in color, want to have a few be black guys.

Am I racist for wanting to paint the servitor looking the most miserable and fucked up as the black guy?

>>50188290
I dig those power swords

>>50191302
Sorry, I kinda thought I made it small myself but I thought my question was so insignificant that it didn't really matter. But next time I'll be sure to make it more reasonable.

>>50191319

Follow the pope of painting himself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsdjBtZJJ2k

>order retarder
>keep painting away
>get good cloak shading without using any retarder
>nothing to use it on anymore

God dammit.

Guess I'll think of a use for it on the Tech-Priest I ordered.

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>>50191319
you can use this and the one I'll link after it (which has dark skin tutorial) along with >>50191334

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>>50191319
>>50191376

>>50191334
>>50191376
>>50191395
Thanks lads, huge help.

>>50191077
Eh?

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Fairly new and bad, stripped this guy a few times before and looking for help.

Not done and needs to be cleaner.

Help me git gud.

>>50182545
why does /wip/ have such a major boner for this guy?

He doesnt really seem like anything all that special

>>50191530
What happened to that "black"?

>>50191720

I like him, but not to the amount that /tg/ does, and I agree. But I can easily see why he is popular.

1. He is just a generally nice seeming guy.

2. He does have some technical chops, such as incredibly fast basecoating speed, edge highlighting accuracy, and being able to brace his hands. You can see this in his Imperial Knight tutorial.

3. He teaches beginners basic but important techniques in an easy to understand way. If someone is being a stupid idiot, instead of dealing with him, you can just tell him to watch Duncan. If he STILL doesn't get it, he wasn't worth saving anyway.

4. He always takes his time to remind us to do things we forget or are too lazy to do, such as thinning your paints and doing multiple layers.

5. His results are about 85% of the way to 'Eavy Metal standard. The only reason they look worse is because he's not using super bright studio photography and digital post editing, his free-handing is not as good, and because he skips a lot of the glazing and blending 'Eavy Metal does. But for painting something like Custodes, his look damn near identical to the stock photos.

6. He is "officially sanctioned" by GW, unlike third party tutorial painters.

7. He doesn't use airbrushes. There are a lot of great tutorial painters who paint wonderful models. And about 99% of them use an airbrush, so that automatically invalidates 99% of the novice painter viewers from being able to copy them.

>>50191768
He's also better than most painters in these threads and some of his stuff from Calth and Prospero are 'Eavy Metal standard.

>>50191720
because he does simple, easy tutorials. most people in /wip/ don't even paint at his simple level, and there are a lot of newfriends who need help, and it's much easier to direct people to him rather than some old, convoluted guide on a blog or whatever.

Welp, I finally mostly finished my first box after putting it off for putting it off for so long because everyone talking down on the army I picked made it depressing.

The warriors aren't done because idk what weapons I'll be giving them, and the rider (none of which are glued on) because, uh, reasons? I'll probably get the sails on the raider next.

Knowing I have to paint them is kinda stressing me out because I don't have any paint.

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>>50191851

Meant to attach pic

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Dunno if they're still kicking around the WIP threads, but, to the anon who posted this terrain, I think it was, last thread. What kind of tiles did you use for the bases of these board sections? Are they sold at hardware stores?

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question for the painting gurus out there, how can i achieve this color of brass/bronze from the pic with citadel paints.
much appreciated

>>50191530
Don't use Sharpies next time m8.

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Thanks to the anon who recommended the spiked helm. Actually came out looking perfect with all the gold. Almost done, just need to finish the jump pack and then finishes the remainder layering.

>>50191732
Drybrush too much I think.

>>50191898
Too Thick?

>>50191927
Don't try to highlight black with drybrushing unless it's something really rough like fur. Narrow edge highlights are about the only easy technique that works for flat armor like that. It's probably better to err on less highlighting in fact. If you clean up that black it would go a long way towards the look of the mini. The red isn't terrible for a beginner.

>>50191906
the cloth+chest being the same dark gold as the rest of the gold on the helmet/shoulder looks weird.

makes it look like he's wearing leather ontop of his armor.

>>50192151
It's mostly the lighting as it was just a quick pic I took to post. Also going to layer on some Ironbreaker on the gold at the end of it all for the high points.

>>50192095
>The red isn't terrible for a beginner.
What would make the red better? Is it anything I can fix now?

>>50191861
different anon here: please have my educated guess, that the base-tiles are mdf or hdf board... available in every hardware-store 'round here, they will cut them to the desired size...

cheap but pretty heavy...

>>50191906
your grey highlights are too thick and very unsubtle

>>50189895
looking super clean so far, nice work

>>50192188
I personally paint reds with a darker base color (such as VMC Cavalry brown) and highlight from there with brighter colors (such as VMC Flat Red). You might want to mix the two colors on palette for smoother transition. This way you should end up with darker areas on slopes etc. For example, the underside of the cloak should be pretty dark, especially between legs.

In your cases some brown wash shouöd be the easiest option.

Btw, you should take better pics too. Does wonders.

>>50191023
You did prime this first, my dude?

>>50192297
I always enjoyed the look of it but I suppose I can play around with the layers and see if I can find a better method. Thanks.

>>50192424
Oh, that makes sense, thanks anon!

>>50182545
Is Nuln Oil just a meme or is it really that much better than other inks?

>>50192548
it isn't really 'better' it just has a lot of uses, like agrax earthshade. a pot of nuln can be used for so many damn things.

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>>50192548
Those washes like Nuln Oil are amazing if used right. This infinity model here with basecoat...

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>>50192595
...ends up a lot better after wash and minor detail picking. All complete in about an hour and a half, leaving out drying time for the last wash layer.

(this was Agrax Earthsade mostly)

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What's the worst painted model you've ever salvaged from ebay? This poor apothecary just arrived in the mail today and went straight to the acetone bath. There's actually a gap between the right arm and the body, but the paint was on so thick I couldn't tell at first.

>>50184617

Any glue will work for basing that isn't a welder, like plastiglue. PVA/elmers/whiteglue will work fine, as will epoxy, if it's a heavyier mini, and good old super glue too.
Also, a pro-tip for some easy bases- get some flock from an ac moore or michels, should be in the diorama section. Make a mix of white glue and water, and use it for grass or snow effects. It's simple and easy for newbies.

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>>50192759
This one.

>>50186802
Those eyes are kawaii as fuck

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Man, I didn't realise how terrible this picture was until I uploaded it onto my PC. It'll have to do: my new company commander for my steel legion.

>>50187754
We had this exact image and conversation like 3-6 months ago...

>>50191530
Please look for another hobby, this is clearly not for you

>>50191530
>Help me git gud.
before you can turn to anything else learn to apply a consistent coat of paint. It might take a few passes to build it up and make it even, but it's the foundation of everything else.

In some of the areas on the mini the basecoat doesn't even cover the primer entirely and everywhere else it is splotchy.

What kind of paints did you use anyway. Looks like you tried to paint with watercolors.
Did you only use washes for the red or what?

>>50183151

theoretically how does one deal with finger prints. New fag here, not the guy who asked at first, but i fucked up.

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>>50193245
sandpaper or scraping with your blade.

Plastic glue melts the plastic, so there is not way to undo the damage, you can just smooth it.
If you managed to do something like that on an area with detail, you have to pull a Bob Ross and make it a happy little accident.

Turn it into burnscars or battledamage for example.

>>50191319

It's the future, there are no black people.

>>50191353

It's great for large area blending, you don't need it for small parts unless you're really afraid of not being able to correct mistakes in time.

>>50191530

Buy the appropriate tools and paints for starters

>>50191851

Don't glue on the weapons until after painting or it's going to be suffering.

>>50192445

All you really have to do is take some varnish or a glaze medium and make a black glaze so you can make the lines thinner with a nice transition between the black and the grey.

>>50193277

Gotcha, thanks.

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>>50193370

Too late.

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Are there any good primers available that are cheaper than GW's Chaos Black in the Netherlands? I can find plenty of info on alternatives in the US but I doubt I could find them anywhere.

I'm just starting out so I can't really judge the quality myself

Since its not in the OP anyone know where I can get good GW replacement paints that arent GWs insane paint prices

>>50193652
Vallejo Game Color is the obvious alternative.
Coat d'Arms used to manufacture for GW a while back and they still sell basically the same colors under a different name now afaik.

>>50193711
does /wip/ have a recommended brand?

>>50187754
Scrolled passed and thought it was a freeza nid for a moment... too much DB too little crusading and modeling.

>>50193585
We have Vallejo primer cans as well as army painter. You could always go to a Kwantum or Gamma and get a high quality primer, still slightly cheaper but not really that grand (never experimented with them).

>>50193767
where is the primer guide?

>>50193652
Vallejo
Army painter
P3
Ammo of MIG
AK Interactive
Scale75

All of these are brands you can use without bigger problems.

There is also "Revell Aqua" which is cheap, but can be used too. Their color range is a bit limited though (since its aimed at historical scale models).

>>50193744
Different people like different brands. Most experienced painters don't use one brand exclusively because sometimes a different brand has that special kind of color tone that you want and "your" brand doesn't offer it.

For example on my table is mainly Vallejo Game Air, 3 pots of GW and 2 bottles of MIG.
I also have an Army Painter was as well as Agrax by GW next to me.

All listed above have in common that they are cheaper than GW (you get more ml per €) and they also come in dropper bottles while GW paint has their strange pots.

Just see what is available in your local store or at your preferred online shop and try some of them the next time you buy paint.

>>50193652
>>50193744
all the good miniature paints will be in a similar price range

Vallejo, Coat d'Arms and P3 are common alternatives but roughly analogous in price, army painter as well, though I've no idea of their quality. If you've any local shops, chances are they should have a mix of brands. Failing that there's plenty of online retailers.

>>50193585
There is a german brand thats called "Montana". They do great primers.

As (>>50193767) said, both brands should be available in NL easily for around 9-11€/can.

Tamiya has spray primer as well.

>>50193782
>all the good miniature paints will be in a similar price range

Yes, but with the exception of GW being the most expensive.

>>50193782
>but roughly analogous in price
Vallejo and Army Painter use 17ml bottles and GW uses 12ml bottles.
You gotta factor that into the equation as well.

>>50193832
Army Painter is 18ml actually.

But yes, they all use bigger bottles than GW (with the exception of the somewhat new GWs 24ml washes which obviously cost more though) and they all cost less than the smaller 12ml gw pot.

Painting assembled or unassembled, Anons?

If unassembled, do you pin it to cork, or use putty or double sided tape?

>>50193898
Depends on the mini.
If you can reach everywhere with your brush when assembled there's not need to paint unassembled.

For example close combat units will often times have their arms outstretched and open poses in general. Paint those assembled. Rank and file troops then to have their guns across their chest. With multi piece kits you get undercuts and other areas you can't reach easily anymore. Paint those in subassemblies.

>>50193898
As much assembled as possible.
If its impossible, i stick the parts to a empty pot with some bluetac, just like i do with whole minis.

>>50193465

Looks like you glued the Archon's arms on too and the cape, going to be tricky to paint m8

>>50193898

I use corks with an unfolded paper clip as wire stuck into cork then I attach the other end to the model. Depending on if there is a patch of model that won't see the light of day I use superglue to stick the wire to the model. Then use sticky sided tape to put the cork on the polystyrene board to spray.

>>50193163
Fuck off with your elitist attitude you cunt. Why don't you try offering advice instead of chastising.

>>50182646
I really love this. Pretty much cause I'm a huge Purgatori fag.

Does someone has Vallejo GC Hexed Lichen and Royal Purple on hand?

I don't know if I should buy them as I don't know how they look when dry

>>50194128
I have an order coming in tomorrow (hopefully) with hexed lichen.

>>50194145

Thanks, would you be so kind to post a pic of it/them when you have it?

>>50194192
Sure. Just make sure you lurk in /WIP/ tomorrow (or monday).

>>50192438
Yeh. A little to thick of a prime I fear.

>>50183650
I bought the highest tier of this kickstarter and I haven't gotten any of my stuff yet. Kinda pissed about it considering he was talking about shipping in August.

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>>50192759
>What's the worst painted model you've ever salvaged from ebay?

I use him as an example to extol the virtues of Goof-Off

>>50191530
honestly, I'd recommend shopping for some simpler minis to practice on. That just has too many bits and bobs to not look like shit in the hands of an amateur

>>50192759
heart belt buckle apothecaries are my favorite

>>50193943
counterpoint: it will actually be less painting because you dont need to dick around with painting shit you wont see anyways. they make mini brushes small for a reason

>>50184545
I would have gone with a darker color on the base to make them contrast more. They look almost the same shade as the bases as it is.

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>>50194666
holy shit how can anyone make something like this and say im okay with this ?

also pic related question
i just cleaned up all my old space marines and bought some new ones. now i see they got bigger bases than before. does that mean i have to buy bigger bases and transfer my models to them, or can i just use them like this ?

>>50194883
You don't have to rebase them. Some companies did "adapters" you can glue around your old base to give them the size of the new ones.

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>>50192759
These beauties

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My Shapeways Breacher shields came in but the marines hold their arms a little too close so I had to spread it a bit... which makes a large gap between shoulder and torso. I did a little Milliput work, is it okay? It won't cure for another hour or two so I can touch it up if you guys have suggestions.

>>50194883
Nice stealth suits.

The official word is that a model is always legal on the base it came with. So if you bought some space marines a while back on 25mm bases then you're free to use those still. The new boxes (in my case the Calth and Prospero boxes) come with 32mm bases for line marines.

>>50194902

OK, Mountain Dew lad there in the center... what's his story?

>>50183668
I live on the IOW not Portsmouth but I know the guy that runs the GW there, he's a really nice guy. They cater to 30k and apocalypse more than other GWS which is good

>>50194902
What are you going to repaint them like? They all look pretty bad. Hopefully they're metal, much easier to strip.

I see lots of people (YouTube etc.) wash directly on their base paint to get a "richer/more realistical" look.

What do I do if I want the base color to be rather light (white-ish grey) but still get this effect?

>>50195101
Washing white-ish colours is a lot like glazing them in that you'll colourize it with whatever you wash it with. Generally I find that I have to base coat, wash, and then once its good and dried go over and neaten up the wash with my base paint again.

>>50195137


Thanks.
I'm rather inexperienced when it comes to painting and am afraid to fuck it up while layering. Would it be possible to drybrush or are there alternatives for bad painters?

>>50195081
I'm gonna give them boots. Still deciding on paint scheme. they're metal so they're swimming in nail polish remover atm.

>>50195080
Also live on the IoW, pretty imminent move to either Portsmouth or Southampton. Seems more likely Portsmouth though. Good to hear there is a scene. Have been out of the hobby for a while. Been pushing to get back into it recently bought a few models and been doing some painting. Doesn't seem to be much of an AoS scene on the island? Atleast not from what I've been told.

>>50195182
Do you have an image of the end effect you're trying to reach? Maybe we can offer better advice that way.

Honestly I'm from the school of "Keep doing the thing until you're good at it" so I suggest you pick up that brush, thin your paints, make sure there isn't too much loaded onto the brush, and try your best at layering.

>>50194128
sorry anon, I have a full Game Air set, but that only has Hexed Lichen, not Royal Purple.

>>50194973
He was part of a campaign on a nurgle-infested world.
After that, he was never the same.

I keep hearing good things about the relatively new GW gloss washes. Are they wroth buying?

>>50195698
If you want your models to have a glossy shine.. sure.

>>50195785
You can are probably going to dull coat them afterwards so that is a non-issue

the main things I've heard is how they flow compared to the regular washes.

>>50195809
>the main things I've heard is how they flow compared to the regular washes.

I never had issues with that.

>>50195698
>>50195785
Without the built-in matte medium they behave slightly differently.
They still flow well, but I don't think they "stain" as much as the normal version does.
It may also mean that they thin a bit better without ruining their properties too much.

>>50195820
I wouldn't say issues, but they stain quite a lot and if you don't apply them carefully they will pool in weird places.

>>50195838
I've heard in particular that if you gloss coat the model, then apply a gloss wash, the wash *only* goes in the crevices with next to no staining at all

>>50195862
So you use them just like oil washes, but without the chance to clean them with white spirit.

Just discovered the Vallejo Liquid Metallic line. I came a little.

>>50193943

I'm not worried about the Archon because I have another.

>>50195885
Oh the alcohol based ones?
I find them a little tricky to work with, gorgeous colours though.
My personal preference goes to Vallejo Metal Color, much easier to use and nearly as good results as solvent based metallic paints.

>>50195961
They're just so damn shiny. The only problem is the limited range, I agree.

Does anybody know if they layer well with acrylic metallics? I'm not talking about blending, just layering. Like if I wanted to undercoat some Liquid Gold with a little citadel gold basecoat, or maybe do an edge highlight of Runefang Steel on some Liquid Silver. Would that look alright?

>>50195991
In theory, yes it should work.
The alcohol solvent of the liquid metal paints shouldn't attack your acrylic paints too much.
Neither should your acrylic paints try to eat the alcohol based metallic.

I'd certainly try things out before taking it to a model, but I imagine it'll work.

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>>50192759

He has a faint resemblance to Mr.Blobby. Ty for reminding me he was a thing anon.

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>>50196112

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What are the new GW golds like? I can also buy Vallejo stuff with the local shop. If you use either could you maybe post a pic?

Blood Angel stuff on the left uses Balthazar Gold, then Auric Armour. 30k stuff on the left uses AP's Greedy Gold. I dislike both.

>>50187963
Add something warm to the grey if it's too cold - brown would be my first choice for control reasons, but red or yellow would work too. A touch of green in the mix wouldn't hurt either.

>>50194964
where did you get the shield from? not that familiar with shapeway.

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Played around with pigments and texture paints tonight, only one side of the tank "muddied" so far, opinions?

>>50191530
What brand of paints are you using? Looks terrible.

I just started painting again, I'd suggest just base colors - for example on that figure I'd go red on the coat and a dark grey on the armor and gun. Or white on the gun if you want it brighter.
Then Nuln Oil, as the thread suggests.

>>50196373
Very nice.

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>>50196274
I like them a lot personally. They really pop. The gold on this Termie is a base of Retributor Armour washed with Reikland Fleshshade, layered with Liberator Gold, highlighted with Auric Armour Gold, and the extremes highlighted with some Vallejo silver.

I used Balthasar Gold on my Khorne Berzerkers a while back and it definitely lacks the brightness and coverage of the new, white-lidded pots.

>>50190627
not heretical enough, anon...

my advice: go ahead and greenstuff a nice little chaos star somewhere on him ;)

>>50196373
Never used pigments, but that looks nice as hell.
Convinced me to test out weathering too. Might try it on the bikes from Dark Vengeance.

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>>50188859
you can do it anon, the quality of the one i have is solid so let's hope yours is of the same batch.

do you also have the reinforced armour? quality on that was meh... but it looks cool now it's on the land raider

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Went back and re-did the weathering, now I think im done.

>>50194902
Whats your secret to eyes anon?

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>>50196883
I just do what it says in the pdf of >>50191395
Black line, white line inside black line, then black dots.

I guess it helps I used to draw and understand how facial expression work and look

>>50196757
Put some weather on the guns too, either a brown wash or bronze highlights maybe.

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Almost time to move on to the base.

>>50197323
I hope the base is a skateboard and he's in the middle of a sweet kickflip.

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Any tips for how I should highlight these? Not sure how I should do it with all that black.

Should I make the bike rear wings bone like the seals?

Made a hood for the sergeant, I'm not really happy with how it turned out - considering flattening the flat surfaces more, but not sure how I should go about that either. Exacto knife? It's made from green stuff.

Also, in a fit of what I can only describe as temporary insanity I made the plasma guns orange instead of the standard blue. Should I change it to blue or keep orange? It doesn't really show in the images.

No bully please, and excuse the poor photo quality.

>>50197487
Wow, didn't realize how compressed that jpeg got. Can you even make anything out?

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>>50197487
Second attempt, this should be better.

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what kind of grey would i need to achieve this color?

would eshin grey layered over black work?

>>50196757
Looks good, gives a 90s vibe, maybe make some of the paint chipped off and rust effects? Also what >>50197080 said

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>That feeling when your flock of the faithful grows
Feels good man

>>50197487
>Any tips for how I should highlight these? Not sure how I should do it with all that black.
Check out the Tales of Painters tutorials. They've got a few nice ones for black SM/CSM.

>Should I make the bike rear wings bone like the seals?
Dunno the models are really, really dark right now. The rear wings would automatrically become the focus due to being the brightest part of the model.
You can even that out if you highlight the other areas though.

>>50197602
Yeah but it just looks like sprue. It's flat and very very boring. You can put a lot of effort in and it looks like you just didn't paint it.

>>50197602

What this >>50197869 anon said. Would look better if you made it more of a silver than I grey if your are dead set, or try to make a more metallic grey on your own. If I were to try it, would mix maybe Leadbelcher with Eshen Grey.

>>50197822
About the wings. Yes, that was my fear and why I kept them black so far, but you're probably right that it won't overtake so much once I get highlighting.

I took a look at the site you suggested and got some ideas. Not sure when I have time to actually put it into action, but I think I know how to take it from here. Thanks!

>>50184803

Here the great tip

If you ever plan to field them, NEVER, EVER, EVER put the tails

Scuplt them from green stuff, from turds, or something else.

GW tails are designed to get in the way EVERY FUCKIGN TIME.


(now the serious answer, prime them brown, do a 3 layer coat with progressively lighter shades, use a bit of wash on the fur, it'sd very easy, fast and reliable. You'll just have to do the faces then)

>>50185594
Dude, I like Slaanesh in all, but flip the fucking picture or don't post it. Also, find a better light source.

>tfw when you start applying those first highlights after a wash and model really just starts coming together

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>>50189895
Cape washed and highlighted. Plasma coil painted too. Next up is the plume I guess.

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First attempt at painting after trying to read guides and learn, using cheap craft store acrylics and a brush that I cut half of the bristles off to have it small enough.
What can I do better next time?

>>50198770
> png 7.61MB
kek

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>>50198770
Thin yo paints, nigga. Jesus

Stop using shit paint, if you are going to do this, do it right. Buy some P3 or Army Painter paints if you don't want to splurge on GW paint. The paints you are using have way too little pigment, which is why it looks chalky and you can see bare plastic through it.

Brush control is pretty good.

>>50198770
use acrylics meant for minis

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>>50198770
>.png

>>50198770
First off, considering that paint and the brush you described, the minis look kinda decent.

Get link related or a similar set for starters.
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B007SQ3C18/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478902675&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+starter

Get a couple of brushes from the $3-$5 price range too. (sizes 0, 1 and 2)

GW and Vallejo sell similar sets, check your local store or your prefered online retailer.

What minis are that btw, they look cute.

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>>50198770
I'm guessing you put craft paint straight onto the model, and in a pretty thick consistency judging by the chunky texture and opacity of the white paint on the third guy. Gotta thin those paints.

Did you put primer on either of them before you went at it? To get a good consistent look to your paint you have to put it on in thinner layers, and to get thin paint to adhere properly you need a base layer of primer on the surface for it to bind to. I'd personally recommend you go buy a can of Krylon Camo Fusion or Rustoleum Sandable Auto Primer and spray a thin coating of that across the entire model before you start painting by hand.

Looks like you did a fine job keeping things inside the lines, so its all a matter of getting the model treated properly to receive paint and getting said paint into the proper condition to apply as thin layers.

>>50198916
I personally vouch for Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" primers. I feel like they go on extremely thin even with my giant ham hands.

>>50198916
Adding to this, as >>50198838 says, craft paint is shit for models. It's designed to be slathered onto large featureless surfaces to provide a single flat color.

Actual model paints have finer and more concentrated pigment material, which means you can properly thin the stuff and still get a even layer of color change when applying it. This also means you can build up layers of progressive tints, shades, or hues once you've had some practice with them, whereas craft paints will choke each other out.

>>50198838
>>50198844
I tried to thin the paints as far as I could without having it drip and be totally uncontrollable, but I guess that can be chalked up to using paint that isn't designed to be thinned/applied like that. I'll have to invest in some proper paints before I continue.
Should I shop online or just go by my FLGS? I suppose online is cheaper?
>>50198916
>>50198927
I didn't have any primer on me, so I did just slap a few layers of white first (see middle figure). I'll go for some primer as well. I suppose there I'd want to check online as well, but what stores would carry it?
>>50198875
Thanks for the paint link. The minis came out of a Super Dungeon Explore kit (Von Drakk Manor). I don't play the game or have intentions to, but I was at a con pissing money and figured it was worth the price just to get a bulk set of minis in an interesting style for D&D. I'm trying to practice on the repeats/minions before I take a brush to anything that could be a good PC token.

>>50199091
>Should I shop online or just go by my FLGS? I suppose online is cheaper?

Correct. In the end it comes down to your personal wealth and if you want to support your local store. If you go there regularly to play i suggest buying there.. but its your money in the end.

>I'd want to check online as well, but what stores would carry it?

Hobby retailers carry hobby primers. ("Army Painter" for example has a big range of spray cans). Your local game store should have some.
Amazon sells all kinds of spray cans too, hobby or craft primers. The later are cheaper in most cases.

If you don't want to spray you could buy a pot of brush on primer. Vallejo sells good ones.

>>50199091
In my experience, online is usually cheaper after a certain amount. Reaper, as an example, has free shipping after $35 USD with bottles at nice prices, but if you don't hit that amount, it's like $15 to ship. I'd definitely shop around, and spend some time comparing. By the by, don't feel compelled to stick to a single range. I've got Vallejo, Reaper, Citadel and Tamiya sitting on my desk. Get a feel for the different ranges.

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>>50199091
Any hardware store. Home Depot, Canadian Tire, Totem, Revy/Rona.

I think it's possible to paint alright with regular acrylics but you need to mix them with a bunch of expensive stuff and at that point you're probably better off using miniatures paint. I used some Liquitex Basics for this Hormagaunt but I ended up having to mix it liberally with Flow-Aid and Thinner Medium to get the consistency and properties I wanted.

Excuse the old, shitty picture.

>>50199144
True, but thats depending on where you are located.
For me, most online stores ship for 4€. If i take my car to drive to the next hobby store i probably pay more. (I still go there from time to time to play and chat, and when i do i usually buy some stuff too), but buying online for -20% is cheaper, even if its only one pot of paint.

>>50199091
Although there are "model" primer spray cans on the market from various hobby brands, the ones mentioned above are going to be half the price and easy to find in the home department of your nearest Walmart/Fred Meyer superstore analogue.

Buying paint pots is all on your LGS situation and personal preference. If you have a store you like nearby hit them up and see if they have a good selection. When I'm going for a very particular range of colors, I end up buying online so I can have the complete ranges of multiple companies available in one purchase.

Keep in mind that different companies will have different pigment ranges and types of paint. Citadel is designed as "newbie" range, with slightly thicker paints and tons of premixed special solutions like colored glazes and gloss coatings - but their pots seriously suck and are practically built to have lid problems. Brands like Vallejo and Army Painter have a wider range of specific colors, and use dropper bottles with slightly thinner paints from the get-go. P3 is sort of in between, with some really nice metallic paints.

I could blog at you all day about your options, but honestly just try things out on your collection there and find what sort of tools and techniques work for you. It's more fun learning than way, IMO.

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>>50199272
some people buy bulk dropper bottles and flow improve and transfer their GW paints to them, but that seems like a lot of work.

What really gets me is that the GW Air line of paints still uses pots and not dropper bottles. Using pots with an airbrush is a real pain, because you have to either pour the paint, making a huge mess, or use a brush/pipet to slowly transfer the paint.

>>50198830
>>50198865

The shittiest painters always have the shittiest image uploads. At this point we have enough data to prove a direct correlation between being a dipshit and being too stupid to properly crop and resize.

>>50198723
Goddamn every update you do it just looks cleaner and cleaner. I've got to get my yellows down that nicely.

How did you get that effect?

>>50199464
>heresy intensifies

I really need to do this, I hate GW's paint pots with a fiery passion

>>50199464
I did that, it really isn't a lot of work. I transferred 40 or so colors in a few hours after ordering the shit from amazon

>>50198723
Daaaamn spiffy

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>>50199580
>he doesn't take WIP shots with his potato camera and post them from work the next day

>>50192604
This is from Infinity, right? What's her name?

>>50199693
Thank you! I do the yellow by:
1) Prime with Army Painter Daemonic Yellow spray. This is a very dull, flat yellow that doesn't look great.
2) I brush on 3-4 extremely thin layers of Yriel Yellow.
3) I do a targeted wash of the recesses with a 1:1 mixture of Vallejo Sepia Shade and Thinner Medium.
4) I highlight the yellow with White Scar.
5) I wash all yellow portions, including the washed and highlighted areas with Lamentors Yellow. This helps blend together the washed areas and the highlighted areas. The white highlights in particular are essentially colourized to a light yellow by the glaze creating.
6) I highlight the most extreme areas with White Scar again
7) I glaze with Lamentors Yellow again, colourizing the highlights again. Now the first highlight is very close to the colour of the yellow armour while the second stands out a bit more.

>>50199767
Sorry, I forgot to mention I skip steps 6 and 7 on line infantry because I seriously have 120 marines to paint (2x BaC, 3x BoP) so I'm cutting some corners.

>>50194098
this was my advice

>>50199827
Love when anons talk shit but never post their own perfect minis, happens so rarely though, oh wait...

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First squad from prospero done. First attempt at edge highlighting, how did I do? Only did the armour panels to start with, will highlight the black and gold after I've got the hang of it a bit more.

>>50200057
Nice thin coats anon, good job. Having said that it looks far too flat to be done, I can hardly notice the highlights, I recommend Evil Sunz Scarlet and maybe a think coat of Wild Rider over top.

Few other issues other anons can explain better than myself. But seriously, good job on the smooth and thin base coat.

Also paint your bases