WIP - Work in Progress Thread

What's a good color to highlight a cavalry brown base?

>>50200827
vallejo model cavalry brown looks sort of similar to citadel doombull brown

maybe citadel cadian fleshtone

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Just finished this guy. I really need a light box because the gold really did not come out all that well in these pics. May go back to it though and paint over some of the gold bits with Gehenna's instead of justusing it for layers.

>>50200639
Where is Johnny?

>>50200943
dead

>>50200942
looks more bronze than gold.

>>50201318
I know, went to heavy on the Agrax Earthshade. All I have is Gehenna's Gold and Balthasar, but when I get my other 3 marines done for this squad I'll go back and try to bring out the gold more with this guy.

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Thanks to the anon that recommended Goof Off for stripping metal models. Its some caustic stuff, but this Apothecary looks good as new.

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>>50201600
And the before picture from last thread.

>>50201600

Caustic liquids are okay for metal minis as long as they're not caustic enough to pit and eat away metal. Goof off is used to get rust off metal so it should be pretty good for your uses.

>Acquire a box of Gors for dead cheap from FLGS
One of the regulars got evicted and dropped off literally all his unfinished stuff and bits in the consignment bin. There were some absolute modeling atrocities in there, but the Gors were brand new on the sprue and only missing the banner. I'm pretty excited to start painting them once I'm done with my Skitarii.
I've got pictures of the guy's bad shit if anyone wants to see

>>50201737
pls

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Hi guys, I'm wondering as a newbie to tabletop, how much sense does getting an airbrush make?

I understand that it doesn't guarantee easy results (far from it) and needs practice to get good at (in fact that's one of the reasons I have for starting early). I also know that brush work is still needed for good quality results. But looking at a lot of examples airbrush just seems to give plain better results in far less time (also a major concern for me).

Mainly looking at painting vehicles and spaceships, though infantry are also on the cards. The smooth, even finish and better blending are my main draws here.

Pic related, spraying pearl inks and such a massive bonus.

>>50201818

I would recommend it for you because you're playing DFC and the kind of paints you are wanting to use are better with an airbrush.

It's worthwhile for someone in your situation to airbrush rather than paintbrush.

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Suggestions for basing colours to somewhat match this.

>>50201842
Awesome, I'm just really not wanting to spunk money up the wall for something that is totally unsuitable for a (relative) beginner. Looks easy enough to pick up, judging by tutorials.

One question for anyone familiar with airbrushes: Any compressors of particular note? Brands to avoid? Airbush itself Iwata Eclipse 0.35 needle seems to come up time and again, so I'll probably go with that.

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>>50201767
Sorry to keep you waiting anon, I had to go eat dinner.
Thank God I get to get this shit off my chest. This stuff has to be seen to be believed.
Come with me on a journey into a diseased mind.
For context, this guy played Dark Eldar, and only Dark Eldar. Not only DEldar, but Dark Eldar in service to Slaanesh. I think he knows that's female space marine tier fluff genocide, and chooses not to care. Here's what's probably a raider.

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>>50200639
How do i paint olive skin ?

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>>50202056
>Counting with anon!
>Raider
>Zombie Dragon/Terrorgheist
>Maulerfiend
>That's three! Three $50+ kits ruined to make this fucking thing!

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>>50202080
This is why you don't prime before you assemble, friends.

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got my DVark Angels onto their final bases but there is still a lot of work left to do

upgrading my phone to ios 10 was a mistake. How on earth do they fuck up the ability to mount the phone on every major OS out there?

Unsure how I should proceed with the plasma effects. I've got a glossy blue I might wash them with, or maybe I'll just use a matte wash. Not sure. Either way, I will need to buy some matte sealant eventually.

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>>50202108
Most of my pictures are actually of this guy's reaver/seeker mashups. Except for literally one, they're all bad, but I'll try and pick the worst of the worst to not eat up too much of the thread.

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>>50202156
At least he had a halfway decent plan to cover up the join, too bad he PRIMED HIS SHIT BEFORE GREENSTUFFING IT

>>50202180
>babby's first greenstuff

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>>50202180
>Just fucking chop off the spike and slap the tail on the back, that'll be good.

>>50202056
>>50202080
>>50202108
>>50202156
>>50202180

Out of interest, did you pretend to like the models in order to get pictures of them so you could shit on them on the internet?

>>50202056
>I think he knows that's female space marine tier fluff genocide, and chooses not to care.
Honestly? not too far fetched. Crone world eldar pleasure cults wouldn't be that different from dark eldar if you look at them from the eyes of anyone else.

those conversions are special, though

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>>50202203
This motherfucker bought (or stole) an ENTIRE Trygon box just so he could put the mouth parts on TWO jetbikes.
For a unit that has a minimum size of three.

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I'm pretty noobish to the whole painting thing, but I really want to do a Nurgle themed CSM army. Anybody got any pointers for a scrub?

>>50202203
No wonder he got evicted. He must have been spending at least twice as much money per unit for his insane kitbashes.

Also, which paint scheme should I do for my Sisters of Battle?

>>50202275
Thin your paints, get a nice fine tip on your brush, and pray to Saint Rhodes before each session

Jokes aside, thinning paints, brush care, and color selection are really important.

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>basecoat model
>thin paints, but for some reason looks off and odd
>apply agrax and nuln oil to desired areas
>a million times better
What is this sorcery

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>>50202255
Some of this guy's stuff had pretty solid ideas behind it, but the execution was just so bad.
This one especially bothers the shit out of me because I hate the new Haemonculus model, but you can't get the one in this picture anymore.
>>50202275
Use washes friendo. That's a good scheme for Nurgle boys after some Athonian Camoshade on the green and Agrax Earthshade on the hands.

>>50202312
Currently what I'm looking at is Death World Forest, and doing all the armor trim with a brass color like Warplock Bronze or (obviously) Brass Scorpion. What would you recomend I do for the edging, if I just stick with DW Forest?

>>50202313
>Wonders why the two holy oils of Duncan improve the painting
heresy detected

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Pls be gentle /wip/, it's only the 4th model I've ever painted.

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OK I tried my hand at making Les' magic wash but looks like I messed up my ratio a bit somewhere. The wash seems to be staying on the surface more than Nuln Oil (right mini) does. Do I need more matte medium, distilled water, flow aid? Or is this just the best I'm going to get?

>>50202339
of the colors I've used Vallejo Model Yellow Green comes to mind, but it might not be bright enough

you can also try using yellows

Having more than one metallic really helps a lot, as metallics look best when you apply highlights to them just like anything else

>>50202370
Aye aye, I forgot to say I was going to do the joints and some of the mechanical wires / doodads in Leadbelcher. I can nuln oil both of those, right?

>>50202353
looks like you have the base colors down. Try using a wash, then applying highlights.

Also put the model down when you take photos.

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>>50202321
Get ready for some real shit motherfuckers. The Terrorgheist up there is definitely the worst, but this thing is second or third worst.
I don't think the windshield was primed, I think he just put way too much superglue on it.
>>50202309
The way I heard it, he was just a piece of shit human being who let his room rot and chose not to pay rent. If you've read the saga of Luke over on 1d4chan, this guy was apparently not too far off that. Half the stuff in the pile of bits and conversions was stolen from the exact same FLGS I picked these pictures up from.
Most of the sprues and models had pubes on them. Fucking pubic hairs. How do you allow pubes of all things to get everywhere?
Order of the Bloody Rose

>>50202395
leadbelcher can look good with either Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade, depending on the look you want.

>>50202353
Looks decent for your 4th model. It's passable though not great. Here is where you need to improve.

>Mold lines.
Strip them down or file them down.
>Thin your paints
It's looking pretty good so far but your base coats could stand to be thinner.

Also would recommended taking a small hand drill and drilling a small hole to form the barrel of the rifle. It's little things like that which make the mini look so much better.

Other than that, few messy spots nit you'll get better with that over time. Also the eyes look really good.

>>50202424
>Most of the sprues and models had pubes on them. Fucking pubic hairs. How do you allow pubes of all things to get everywhere?
I hope you washed them first

>>50202342
not knowing about something isn't heresy. knowing and ignoring thats might be heresy

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>>50202424
>Oh that Venom didn't look too bad, it's just got some spikes on it!
Well feast your fucking eyes. There's most of a seeker chariot jammed onto this thing, and I don't think a flying stand would actually fit on it any more.

>>50202458
Faith doesn't need answers. Duncan's holy oils work. It is not our place to question why.

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Working a priest, just done washing. Needs a good bit of highlighting and he should look a lot neater.
Part of me wants to freehand biblical text, any ideas?
Was thinking the Latin exorcist prayer

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>>50202462
Fucked up my image, didn't post the resized one.
And back view for completion's sake. There's one more thing that I got a hold of, but I've got to take a picture of it real quick.

Fellow nobles, do you paint your Knights all in the same house or do you mix it up? (One Terryn, one Cadmus, etc.)

Also, the WIP dryfit of my second Knight's base.

>>50202469

SOMEBODY GIVE THIS MAN A PURITY SEAL

>>50202255
That idea does kind of look neat if it wasn't for the fact of how much those bits cost.

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>>50202512
Image didn't attach.

>>50202546
Inb4 church

>>50202546
>church on the base
I can dig it.

>>50202484
at scale any test on the page you be barely visible. Do some scribbles if you want. Duncan has a good tutorial

https://youtu.be/MjQS4houOb8?t=5m19s

fine work so far though. I always like that model.

>>50202120
>no (You)s
either I've done something right, or it's all gone horribly wrong

anyway I am hoping some agrellan earth, wash, and highlights can look OK on the Chaplain's base, since I don't really want to buy a box of twenty 40mm bases (and six 65mm?? what uses 65mm?) just for one base.

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>>50198723
Did some work on the helmet plume and the crozius (and crozius arm, since I painted it separately from the body it hasn't received the proper glazing yet). I've never done a power weapon before so I tried to do that blending gradient thing people do for their Grey Knights. Each flange of the crozius facing each other is highlighted in light-to-dark in the opposite direction.

>>50202120
They look ace man, keep doing what you're doing.

Here's the official tutorial for plasma, though I cut it down to just 3 on my chaplain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpSVZiYLuPY

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>>50202509
Here's the last of it. I'm fairly certain he didn't play daemons or CSM, so I can only imagine this was going to be a pain engine of some form. I think I can salvage this into a fairly decent daemon prince. And then never field it because lolnowings
>>50202208
The guy wasn't there when I took these pictures.
All this stuff just got dumped on the poor FLGS owner, and now he's got to sort through ALL the sprues and pieces that got chopped off the sprues, and put them together into the units they used to be so he can sell them off again. I don't think he's familiar with any bits beyond Chaos Marines, Loyalist Marines, and Orks. The guy who got evicted was kitbashing from:
>Dark Eldar
>Chaos Daemons
>Chaos Space Marines
There's like four dinobot torsos with no limbs or armor to go to them because they've all been glued to some other retarded shit
>Tyranids
RIP that Trygon kit
>Eldar
There's a finecast Howling Banshee sprue that's missing a banshee torso and nothing else.
>Vampire Counts
I wish I got a picture, but the Ghoul King from the Terrorgheist kit has HUGE greenstuff boobs modeled on. Like, bigger than the models' head huge.
>Dark Elves
There's an old metal Cauldron of Blood kit, as well as most of the new plastic one. Also, there were FOUR Sorceress torsos, all clipped off the sprue. No idea where the rest of the kits have gone to.

>>50202424
He stole from the LGS? How did they did they find out about that? Follow the trail of pubes back to his shitty room?

>>50202546
Not going to lie, working on a knight this weekend..have those bits spare and I'm going to take this idea to some degree.

>>50202735
Some of the stuff came back still plastic wrapped in their original boxes with the FLGS's stickers on them. The owner had no recollection of ever selling those things to the guy.

>>50202577
Incredibly new, please be gentle. Who is Duncan (other than I assume some god that walks the earth who can paint) I'm about to paint a lot of purity seals and parchment on my grey knights so this tutorial will be relevant to me

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How do you guys do weathering? I'd really like to hear some of your tricks and techniques for bigger pieces.

I finally got this to this point. I still need to glue the shoulder guards and the rear portion of the body on, and I have some more decal work to do before weathering.

I also have to get the banner together - but I've got the hardest part of that, the design done, thanks to a friend who is really good with photoshop. I don't think I could freehand a Titan banner. Maybe someday.

I know it needs more church.

I seen yesterday someone posted a link to a book by a painter that does models for infinity. I think it was Angel something master class. I only have gw mini's and citadel paints but i like the look of this book for the techniques and colour theory sections, any one got this book and know if it would be worthwhile to pick up? I know alot the book looks to be specific army sections which would be useless.

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>>50202779
One more I guess. Bits of this are way too shiny. I'll have to tone it down with a matte finish, but 'Ardcoat seems to help hide transfer outlines!

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>>50202812
man i cant imagine how much of a pain in the ass it is to keep paint coats smooth over such a large area

looks fan fucking tastic so far

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>>50202761
Duncan is a Games Workshop employee who does the painting tutorials on Warhammer TV. He has a very easy-to-listen-to voice but each video always drives home the key points beginners need to know like:

Thin your paints
Get a good point on your brush
Neaten up if you over-wash or highlight.
etc.

He does everything from minute-long short tutorials every day during the week, to hour-plus tutorials for massive models like Archaeon and Alariel the Everthighs. He's really, really good at painting but even better at calmly explaining what to do.

>>50202760
Hey anon. Duncan is the guy who does Games Workshop's painting videos. You can see these on the GW site in places or also on GWs YT channel I think.

>>50202761
Duncan Rhodes is a guy that does painting tutorials for Games Workshop in their youtube channel. The tutorials are often very beginner friendly and he has a very soothing style which is nice to listen to while painting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_odi1c7ErCg

In this video he does purity seals. Look around 13-14 minutes in, not sure on the exact time.

Getting back into the hobby and I had a question about the procedure for applying basing material

do i want to apply it to the base with the model before i prime it then paint the flock/gravel whatever afterwards applying things like shrubs last

or do you attach the model to the base and paint it as normal applying the basing material afterwards around the feet of the painted model

>>50202761
our Lord and Saviour

>>50202862
I've done bases all sorts of ways before, but my favorite ways are either:

>texture the base and put the model on before priming

>paint the base and model separately and attach later

in either case, certain elements which wouldn't be painted, like static grass, would be applied at the end.

Most recently I've tried out the GW scenic bases. Despite the crap they got when they were release, I actually think they are pretty nice.

>>50202761
The God Emperor's current disguise.

>>50202841
thanks anon! Its not as bad as you think. the big stuff is pretty forgiving.

>>50202056
So, this is like bubba'd guns for /tg/.

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My Tech-Priest Dominus is going to arrive on monday and I was planning to blatantly steal pic related's scheme for my AdMech army.

Wondering what I could do for the Dominus' and Datasmith (and possibly Skitarii) robes/cloaks to fit this color scheme. Was thinking that maybe using grey or white instead of silver as the base color might work to keep the blue/green but get rid of the metallic look.

Can anyone think of something else that might work?

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How do you highlight shit like armor? Pic related is mine, and I could never get it right.

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Anyone got experience with magnetizing leviathan arms?

I got some 45mm rare earth magnets i used for magnetizing terminator arms and considering how well they worked with heavier things like an arm holding up a banner I'm wondering if theyd be strong enough or if i need something larger

>>50202761
Bob Ross of minis. But not -10 HP.

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I wanna do a metallic color-shift purple-green thing in my Dung Beetle Knight. What is the best brand for this? Anyone have any experience with color-shifting paint?

>>50203268
I like your idea.

Or just grey would probably work, although I find grey hard to paint.

You could also do a complimentary color like red or orange?

I really like this look - I have been thinking about trying to do something like it. What's do you base with? It's got to be either like a really bright silver or maybe that allclad stuff that people use to get a chromed look?

>>50203371
Didnt exactly think of what to use as my base yet, been practicing on the sprue rest plastic to just get the right amount of green/blue down with just Runefang as a 'base'. Been working surprisingly well, to be honest. Might see if I can just use the black primer I have already at home and paint onto that one and see if that works. Managed to use it for just about everything so far that wasn't actual white.

I kind of like the grey idea too, though that can often look unpainted from a distance and a bit dull, with how much metal is on the figure already. Not sure what to think of the complimentary colors, could work out, though it might end up looking like any old Dominus or not fitting the blue rest of the army at all.

Newbie who just watched Duncan's basic videos explaining the Citadel painting system for the first time, and it makes a lot more sense now. Can someone check if I've got this right?
>Undercoat
Primer, black for dark models or those with deep shadows and white for those that use very light/bright colors, sprayed or painted over fully
>Base
Broad colors on each different "area" of color on the model, form the basis of all colors that go on top and has a tone that shows through under anything else, thinned reasonably and with coats until the primer is concealed but details are unobstructed
>Shade
Also known as a wash, comes already very thin, applied using broad brushes so that it barely dyes the upper areas of the model and seeps into details shading them deeply
>Dry
The "opposite" of shade, very coarse paint that gets no water and needs a dry brush, used to pat "shine" or "automatic highlight" onto craggy/detailed areas of a model like pistons or fur or what have you
>Layer
The last step on the model proper, used to finalize the color on the areas of the model not dyed by shade or already highlighted by dry, a few layers form the "main highlight" while a few key applications of a still lighter color finish very highlighted areas
>Texture
Globby thick paint used to create rough terrain on the base

Of course, I've got a few questions. With washing models that have a number of colors, is it best to use a gray/black/neutral wash so you don't have to totally delete it from edges where it shouldn't be (like blue pooling around skin) or is there a major benefit from using different washes for each colored area and cleaning them with base/layer paint before moving on?
Does dry paint retain a lot of benefit for mainly "smooth" models without lots of metal details? I'm working with miniatures for D&D, so I'll have some hair/fur/metal armor that could benefit, is that enough to warrant investing?

>>50203455
You've got a pretty good understand of it. The one thing I'll add is that Shades can also be applied with a smaller brush to just the recesses / details. You don't have to slop it everywhere, though sometimes that's the intended effect.

I generally wash each area with its 'appropriate' colour, or sometimes a mixture or in-between shade if I want to blend two different colours together. Generally speaking cleaning up with base/layer paint before moving on will give your miniatures a very clean look to them (which depends on if you want that look or not).

Never used the Dry line of paint so I can't comment. You can drybrush using regular paint and an old, fucked-up brush with splayed bristles anyway.

Do you first paint a model's separate pieces, then assemble, leaving assembly spots clear oe do you first assembld completely to have a proper view how every part works together or something between the two?

>>50203496
I like to assemble as much of a miniature as I can without obstructing my ability to paint. I paint those separately assemblies, and then I do a final job with the glue (carefully, to avoid ruining the paint job with a splash of glue).

>>50203496
I typically build the 'core' of the model while leaving things like overhanging plates (hello Ret myrmidon pauldrons) and detail pieces off, then jam blu-tac over any attachment points before priming.
Composition highlighting after full assembly can wait until I have the damn base color at a satisfactory point.

>>50203455
layers are bit more versatile, but for Duncan's method of painting that is mostly what they are used for

Before washes were popular, a way of getting a good strong color was to use many many thin layers of paint over a dark base.

Wash color depends on preference. I would suggest experimenting. Reikland Fleshshade is useful for waay more than just flesh - I use it for golds too.

You can drybrush with layer paint as well, just wipe most of the paint off the brush onto a paper towel. Dry paints were specifically made for dry brushing. I've heard a LOT of good things about the rust paint, but I have not tried it personally.

Smooth models won't have nice areas to dry brush, but you can also drybrush selectively - it doesn't have to be over the whole model!
One more tip: GW paints are actually nice, but don't constrain yourself to just GW. Other brands like Vallejo and Secret Weapon have some really great paints too.

>>50203496
depends on the model.

If none of the parts get in the way of the details, or there are major structural elements, I will fully assemble, otherwise I will do sub assemblies. Not each part individually though. That would be crazy.

>>50202731

I am confused as to how the flg owner came to be in possession of the models and sprues? Was it like payment for all the shit he stole or he just decided to "gift" his abominations to the store owner since he had nowhere to live?

I recall opening up this old ass toolbox with foam cutout to hold models in that someone had left at the local warhams club for months, that shit was rife with pubes.

>>50203455

You pretty much nailed it, one thing though is that dry brush is more of an either or technique, you tend to either dry brush the model for quick and easy highlight or you layer the paints working up to an edge highlight.

Some more advanced techniques from what I can gather is glazing, feathering (I only learned of this in the recent white dwarf) and that's about all I've learned so far.

>>50203666

I wasn't even paying attention to him and I know it's from consignment. Do you even know what consignment is, you uneducated fuck? Pay attention.

>>50203300
when i magnetize heavy arms i put a pin in as well as a magnet for extra stability, so it can hold a pose properly

>>50202353
Did you use primer?

Looks fairly good, considering its your 4th.

What would be the best model to start with on making a Trump SM chapter master?

>>50203983

Calgar.

anyone know what a good substitute for rub and buff pewter guilding wax would be for acrylic paints? trying to replicate the FW iron hands paintjob without an airbrush or the weird specialist stuff

>>50204091

The U stands for USA. Paint his cape like a flag.

>>50204095

The brightest fucking silver you can find. Vallejo's liquid gold would be a good choice but those aren't acrylic either.

I'm guessing one of the Vallejo Model Air silvers or maybe the new AoS Citadel silver. Also depending on how much you polish the paint, the buffing compound ranges from leadbelcher dark to shining mirror chrome.

>>50200639
I need help, how DO you actually thin paints?

what's the best way of doing it? I supposed to put them on a plate and thin it with the brush and water or another liquid suitable for thinning.

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>>50202659
Aaaaand I'm done. At least until my new bases come in and I head down to the FLGS to grab 'em.

>>50204197
Comprehensive guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EogxYu8dgzY

>>50204197
there are a few ways. I only know a few, so I'm sure there are others.
>using a paint thinner
the easiest way, if its in a dropper, just drop a little bit onto the paint, stir it, get it to a milk consistency. normally 1:1 ratio is perfect.
>using water
from what I've seen from Duncan, you just dunk the tip of your brush in water from a pot, then stir that into your paint.

>>50204211
>using a paint thinner
Use a little less than 1:1 if you're using a wet palette because the wet palette will provide some water to make it thin as well.

>using water
From experience you'll realize how much water you uptake depending on the size of your brush, how far you dip it in the water, and how long you dip it. Especially for big brushes it's very easy to accidentally pull tons of water into the big reservoir.

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comin 2 slap ur heretic

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2 more kans arrived! Still waiting for my OOP Deff Dread to lead this merry kan family. All are WIP to an extent or another. Freehanding checkered pattern is so nerve wrecking

>>50204715
Classic dreadnought's a bitch to keep assembled, even compared to the kans.

Nice paintjob, though. I prefer 'em to the plastics.

>>50204724
Thanks! Thats why i always pin the limbs in.

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Anybody wanna help me with a scheme for my Daemons of Tzeentch? Don't wanna go with standard colors. I have 3 allied renegade Knight Titans and I'd like them to match.
I was thinking of soft pale yellow as a primary with some rich blue as a second and a little gold thrown in here and there.

I'd like something bright and colorful, but not too loud.

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>>50203361
There aren't a lot of brands that even make that type of paint, but 2 big brands are Alclad and SpazStix, both are MEK-solvent based paints.
This is the same solvent that's used for high-end car paints, so it's very volatile and quite toxic.
a mask is a must when working with this stuff.

Both work best on a super-smooth gloss black base, which both brands make, though Alclads self-levelling gloss black primer is probably the nicest of the bunch.
Don't be afraid to polish up the base coat, as the glossier it is the nicer your paint will look.

These paints are designed for RC models, so they transition quite nicely on smaller surfaces, if you want the effect to be stronger, just add more layers of paint (see image related, that's a Knight Carapace).
Because these are solvent-based paints the individual layers dry incredibly thin, so even 5 or 6 coats won't even make a dent in your detail.

The downside to MEK (Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) paints is that they're literally allergic to acrylic paints.
I own a few (mostly Alclad and a few Spazstix), and I bought a cheap second airbrush (Iwate Neo-C) that's only used for those paints.
Apparently using these in an airbrush that's been used for acrylic paints can gum up the works beyond recovery from the reaction between the solvent and the tiny traces of acrylic left in the brush.
I had no interest in finding this out first-hand with my far more expensive Harder & Steinbeck Evolution airbrush.

Once the paints are dry, seal them in with varnish before hitting anything with acrylic paints as these do not play nice together.

Links:
http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/collections/spazstix-color-changing-paint
http://alclad2.com/finishes/prismatic-holomatic/

I'm worried about painting tanks /wip/

I'm doing 30k Death Guard and my model painting is solid, if not adventurous (don't have much free time because I'm a lecturer)

I'm shitting my pants at having to paint £70 -100+ tanks made out of resin. If I fuck up a Spess Mehrene, I can just dump it in a tub of Dettol and do it over; not so with a Spartan

What are the essential things I need to consider when doing these tanks?

>>50204952
Resin tank = easy to strip, just bigger than a Marine.

As for painting tanks, keep the layers thin and even, big surfaces are more forgiving than you think.
Don't use a tiny brush, especially Imperial tanks have lots of big surfaces that are easy to do with a bigger brush.

>>50204952
get an airbrush if you don't have one

strictly speaking you don't *need* one, but they are really useful for big models. And for small models. And for when you want blends done the easy way. And for everything else.

Once you are happy with your base coat, you can seal the model before you continue. This might make it a bit easier to clean the model if the wash goes bad or something, as well as to keep the wash flowing into the crevices and not stain the model.

One trick I like for things like rivets is to get a brush full of wash and dab it on the rivet, making it pool around the rivet. Once dry, you go back and highlight the rivet to really make it pop.

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>>50203361
>>50204880
You can get something similar with acrylics from Liquitex too.
For some godforsaken reason they removed all the examples of usage from their homepage though.
So have a picture of this mini painted with two interference paints intead.

>>50205039
Can you get the transition effect as strong as you do with solvent based paints though?

They're certainly easier to use, I'll give you that, but those Alclad and Spazstix paints really pop.

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Anyone got any good pictures of Sisters of Silence models? Anyone seen any neat conversion of the buggers?

I only just got the chance to build mine but I'm not quite sure what style I'm gonna go for. I'm a 40k player, not a 30k player, so I'm not sure exactly I'm going to fluff 'em but I'd love to include the models in my army.

Thinking about painting them along the lines of Order of the Bloody Chalice.
Opinions?

>>50203361
>>50204880
>>50205039
I've done the transition affect with a lot of layering using White Aluminum and Minitare Ghost tints along with liquid latex paint masking.

Probably took longer but It works and I'm happy with the effect...though it took a lot of test paints to get the recipe just right.

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How does this look? I'm really shitty with green stuff, but I did my best.

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Entering the last part, i have to work on the pole of the banner, the hour glass, and the robes, but im getting there.

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>>50204861
I dont like the idea of pale yellow as primart simply because i think its more a nurgle color. For me tzeench its all about intense colors. Have you tried inverting the scheme?
(Not my model)

>>50205196
>but I did my best
And that's what counts.
Once it's sets cut out the rough bit over the bolter barrel. I would have used a wet pencil to add a slight groove to show separate paneling between bolter and plazma. But otherwise not a bad combi-bolter.

>>50205213
Damn that's a good model

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>>50205287

>wet pencil

Huh, never thought of that. As for the bit over the bolter, I shaped it up a little better, but yea. I'll have to clean it up more.

Here's the whole (rough) package.

I need to clean bits off the body yet and wash the dust off, but I think I have the look I want.

>>50205328

The combi isnt bad at all. Personally I would have kept the length of the plasma bit because I think it looks better, but its up to you - when I'm making combi weapons I normally cut the bolter along the line of the hand grip, then the groove all the way to the back, move the barrel down to the grip and slap the entire plasma/melta assembly on top of that,

>>50202757
Go for it. Why would you build terrain when you can make churches and cool bases!

>>50202565
>>50202577
Well my fluff idea was an Imperial shrine, so I suppose so.

>>50205354

Thanks!

I tried keeping more of the plasma, but it looked odd because it was from a pistol and the bottom was squared. I also wanted to keep the ejection port.

I don't known that I have the skill to cut like that, but I will have to do at least 4 more some time in the future to finish the command squad, so there's plenty of room to practice.

Also, I have a sling available. Do you think it would look good with a sling on the bolter?

>>50205061
>Can you get the transition effect as strong as you do with solvent based paints though?
No the colors aren't quite as strong.

just finished my first custodian guard unit, C&C appreciated

>>50203361
I've also seen a nice pearl effect from spraying iridescent artist's ink.

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>>50205709
forgot to attach the picture, whoops

>>50205716
Those look really nice, like what you did with the blades. The head plumes could be more vibrant, but maybe it's just the lighting.

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Just decals and a few odds and ends and these Cataphractii are done.

>>50205213
Not a fan of the model but your paint job is excellent. Only thing I'd want to change is maybe try and make the red a bit more vibrant.

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So I'm painting an Avatar and thought I'd start with testing the molten effect out on the leg. Do you guys think a gloss varnish would be nice to finish it off?

>>50205716
I feel like the red could use some stronger/brighter highlights.

The gems are great though


Not your fault of course, but golden armor is probably the most boring thing to look at. Does the Prospero book offer pics for Custodes in different paint schemes? The AoS-"Marines" look better in other colors too

>>50205845
it looks kinda thick, and not that good blended. I'd recommend you use a thinning-agent to blend the yellows, oranges and reds together. same with the black.

>>50205922
Custodes are gold with some red and leather details. I don't think there has ever been an official alternate colour scheme.

>>50205922
>pics for Custodes in different paint schemes?
The thing is Custodes are usually only found in one place as they only serve one purpose: guarding the golden throne.
So there really is no reason for them to have more than one scheme.

>Watch Duncan to get for colour scheme
>Dips brush in water a tiny bit to thin the paint on his pallet

Is that all you need? I usually end up overthinning sometimes cause i don't want my paint to end up thick and chunky.

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New forge lord for my 30k iron warriors

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>Bought the Start Collecting Skitarii set
>Dislike how the Skitarii all have intact robes but the Dominus has a terrible frayed robe
>Planning to tidy it up with greenstuff
>Have never done that before in my life

Wish me luck, lads? Or perhaps give me some tips so I don't muck this up, please?

>>50202321

That's just a fleshbane gauntlet

>>50202731

Is that a fucking wraightknight torso? Yes, yes it is. I hope this man is permanently homeless and gets raped.

>>50204206

The model is gorgeous, love the yellow. The cloak is a bit rough in comparison and the blue mace just doesn't work. It looks like some sort of plasma coil because of the gun. You could add lightning patterns to make it look like it is powered. For the cloak I'd add some sharper highlights and go over the edges with Drucchi violet.

>>50205196

Get some 1000 or 2000 grit sand paper (higher is better) and sand it smooth after it cures. Then add skulls or some other ornament along the seam.

>>50205845

Dude, what the fuck. Look at glow effects first. Start off white, then darken as you make your way up. You did it on the kneecap. It looks like melted cheese now. You also desperately need glaze medium, these effects take around 27 layers to achieve.

Planning on mamking six mobs of trukk boyz for some tabletop fun, and I want tot heme each unit's look. So far I've thought of:

Freebootaz
Cyborks
Feral Orks
Lootas

Not sure what do do for the other two mods. Maybe some Kromlech greatcoats/afrika corps? Help me out here WIP, with pictures if possible.

>>50206541

Personally I'd reserve cyborks for the airborne division and Freebootaz for anything droppod/boarding action related.

You can make a batch of glowing eyed orks together with a weirdboy, orks suffused with death world plant life as they're fungi themselves, some orks wearing Squigg related paraphernalia (hats, scarves etc) or even half-daemon orks.

>>50202358
Anyone have any suggestions?

>>50202358
>>50206588

You need to make it more runny, some flow improver or some non-foaming dish soap should do the trick.

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Tonks is love, Tonks is life.

>>50206800

They look great but a little samey, I wish you'd give them more unique markings, kill markings and battle damage.

>>50203288
Base metal.
Wash.
Lighter version of your metal.
Silver highlight.

At the very least wash it. Metals are probably the easiest and most effective color to do an all over wash on.

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Anyone got experienc with assembling 30k Val Gorbaks ? I love the look of them, but i don't play Word bearers.
So my idea is to use them as very late heresy assault marines for my Emperor's children.

My question is, how promiment are the word bearer symbol on the models ? will they be easy enough to shave off and replace with greenstuffed EC symbols ?

>>50207047
>will they be easy enough to shave off and replace with greenstuffed EC symbols ?

Yes, assuming you have some experience with GS and conversions.

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Quick question here. I'm looking to make a nice unique vanguard squad as an honour guard for a Chapter Master, and I was looking for winged jump packs. Sanguinary Guard ones are too rare and annoying to chase, and I found Puppet's War steam wing packs. Does anyone have any experience with if they mesh with the average space marine torso?

>>50207089
half my stuff is already kitbashes/ conversions with greenstuf used in one way or another on almost everything, so that should be a problem.
But thanks for the quick answer, ordering some of those beauties now.

When painting metallic blue or red, should I prime white or black? Any recommendations? Making couple test models of both red and blue, but wanted some input first...

After completely fucking up a few days ago I need to stop being a little bitch and attempt to put together the rest of my set. I really shouldn't have been surprised by the tiny size of the figures, they're called miniatures for fuck's sake.

Still extremely sad for clipping the lord-celestant's sword guard though. ;_;
I didn't notice it.
It doesn't look that bad but I know what it should look like and makes me feel really bad.

>>50207216

Clip off the other side too or just add another bit there. Invest in a razor saw so you can saw off entire limbs and replace them with other stuff.

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I FUCKED UP THE SKULL
AND IM OUT OF BLACK
AAAAAAAA

>>50207216
We've all been there. Don't get discouraged by it. I cut off part of one of my Necron characters. Couldn't really repair it, so I just painted it. Ended up winning the painting comp at my local GW with that model.

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>Know nothing about green stuff, even after reading / watching tutorials
>End up basically jamming it into what I can and then use a wet finger to remove excess / fingermarks

This'll still look okay when I assemble and paint it, right?

I just wanted a Dominus that had a robe that wasn't quite so torn up. I think I did okay?

>>50204880
welp. Time to strip and repaint my Ziggy Stardust themed slanseshi warband. I always wanted that kind of pearlescent effect on them, knowing I can actually have it is irresistible.

>>50207210
black

>>50207458

Brush it with 96% alcohol to get it off, use bleached bone next time

>>50207458
>i'm a faggot who doesn't keep spares of the most commonly used colours.

>>50207210
For metallic paints it's usually best to work from a black base, it enhances the look quite a bit, over white they tend to look flat and lustreless.
Gloss black would be even better.

For golds warm browns or reds are usually best.

Magos counts-as Warpsmith for my IW/Dark Mecanicus army. It was good fun making him, next I want to try making Spawn Servitors, cultists and a renegade Knight.

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>>50207631
Shit.

>>50207489
But seriously /tg/, this'll turn out okay, right?

I need assurance that I didn't just fuck everything up here

>>50207567
>I'm a jew
Ftfy

>>50207659
you needed to fill the holes, which you did.
Once it's hardened your magos should be sporting an intact robe.

>>50207660
well that's even more your own fault.

>>50207655
What did you use to make them? That's really neat

>>50207779
I think the face is a Skitarii Omnispex, the rest I'm not sure on. Looks interesting though.

>>50206285
Just think of it as the Dominus never chaging/repairing his robe, as he's far too invested in his work to care about hiding his cyborg bits.

>>50206195
You want the consitency of milk, don't thin when using shades/washes, and don't thin when drybrushing.

>>50207444
>Clip off the other side too

Yep, that's what I did. At least it doesn't look broken, just looks like a sword without a guard.

>>50207464
Thank you.

Actually, I just put together the second retributor and felt a lot easier today. Huh. Maybe it just wasn't my day the first time.

>>50207779
i second the need to know what you made this from

>>50207876

Question, I put glue on both pieces instead of one and it seemed to help a lot. Is that right?

>>50207779
>>50207806
>>50207982
Thanks! The base model is the Cairn Wraith, and the other parts are from the skitarii ranger kit.

>>50207659
filling in holes is what liquid greenstuff is for, not the regular stuff. Thankfully, you did this to cloth, which is really, really, really hard to fuck up. Greenstuff does expand slightly when it dries, but youll be fine, relax.

>>50208260
you can use regular green stuff, liquid green stuff isn't great for bigger openings, just a matter of smoothing it down once you've applied it.

>>50203820

I'm sorry your awful models have been put up for the world to see anon.

No i've never heard of consignment. I was unaware that gamesworkshop acted as a pawn broker to sell off other peoples unwanted horribley converted models. Thanks for updating me on their policy though.

>>50207660
??

It's not like you would be buying paint you won't use or buy anyway. You're just not waiting to run out before you head to the store.

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>>50205236

I hear you on the yellow thing, but I was thinking more of a moon color rather than a puke color. Soft and pale, but still warm and a little glowy. Rich blue as a secondary to back it up and reinforce the "non puky-ness" of it.
I could invert the scheme but when they finally come out with Thousand Sons army the daemons wouldn't be all that much distinguished from the marines. I'd like to compliment the marines without directly copying their scheme, because why would a horde of Chaos daemons change their entire appearance to match the lowly mortals who worship them?

I do like the bright intense colors but to be honest I don't have the confidence I could pull them off. I can paint decently well but this is my first army I've actually done rather than just painting individual models and I'm not confident I'd be able to pull them off.

>>50204880

Is it at all possible to brush those paints on, or do you pretty much have to have an airbrush?

So, is based Chinaman still around? How hard is it to paint his stuff?

>>50208882
I'm honestly, not entirely sure.
I have hand-painted a sample or two, but the coverage is much worse than it is when airbrushing, and it's very difficult to get an even coat.

They're very volatile paints, designed for airbrushing and incredibly thin because of how these do their job.
There's relatively little pigment in the paint compared to normal paints, it's like 95% solvent by mass, and it relies on being sprayed to evaporate most of it.

So it's probably not impossible, I most certainly would advise against trying to brush paint these.

If you're going for Interference Paints like >>50205039 used, then you can apply them by brush, as they're acrylic, but the effect won't be nearly as strong.

>>50205236
You can't convince me that Duncan didn't do this in his spare time.

>>50208913
>How hard is it to paint his stuff?

Why should it be harder to paint than any other stuff?

I ordered a miniature around a week ago btw.

>>50206285
Liquid greenstuff.

Does the guy with ridiculous amounts of skeletons still lurk here? If I remember right he was using 3rd party torsos for a lot of them, Perry miniatures maybe? Does anyone know what they were (specifically would be best)?

>>50209041
He used mainly Perry plastic Foot knights from their War of the Roses range.

https://www.perry-miniatures.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_62&products_id=3148&osCsid=e9igce2eobqjtg2m4hjml4oo32

>>50209055
Thank you!

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>>50209021
Groovy thx bb have a pepe

>>50201897
steel legion drab and zandri dust drybrush?

>>50206800
NOD stronk

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>>50206285
>>50207489
Finished assembling. Looks like shit but once I've shaved that mold line on the staff away and painted it it should be okay

>>50208260
>>50209035
>liquid greenstuff

THAT'S A THING!? How did I not know that!

>>50209665
>How did I not know that!

You haven't bought enough finecast. It came out around the same time and is convenient in patching up all those nasty bubbles and gaps in, say, shitty resin casts.

>>50206909
Where do I actually put the highlight, though?

>>50209665
Liquid greenstuff is actually kind of tricky to use, but can be thinned with water to finish slightly smoother. "Greenstuff" isn't really the best name for it but I am not sure what else they would have called it. It behaves more like a super thick paint that you can use to fill gaps and smooth surfaces.

It also contracts as it dries so you need to overfill the gap and them smooth it out after.

It doesn't replace techniques like the Milliput wash, and regular GS is better for big gaps.

>>50209724
>>50209838
It's clear that I have a lot to learn. I've never touched any of this stuff before

I'm tempted to get another Dominus in the future and try again with the liquid stuff, though. The one I've made looks like it'll turn out alright, but I'm worried it won't be like I imagined, you know?

Why should Skitarii be the only ones with neat robes!

>>50208913
Kind of a tangent but I had a real good laugh that some official resin casts (like that 30k Ultramarines standard bearer I've been seeing around) are so low quality people mistake them for recasts.

>>50209884
You can still get some liquid green stuff and try it on your current model to smooth things out

Also don't forget that greenstuff (and liquid green stuff) can be shaved and filed down after it has dried. A dremel is a great tool with a lot of uses, and these days a 40 dollar dremel kit will come with the tool and a ton of attachments.

>>50204715
Those are damn skippy nice! (Pic added to my collection to inspire myself to paint more minis.) Can't wait to see them all finished up and crumpin' hummies on the table top.

>>50205716
I would have done some of the winglingy dingly embossed armor bits a different color. Migh be a bit less monotoned.

Do glazes work in spray-guns at all? I don't think my AL scheme is going to work on anything above infantry size otherwise.

>>50206800
Very nice

>>50210235
they should, you'd need to be gentle and careful not to drench the model, so thin layers are the way to go, but you'll be able to spray them just fine I imagine.
No pigment to clog your brush, so no thinning needed.

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Hey guys. Christmas is near and last year i organized the Secret Santa for /WIP/. Maybe some remember (or even participated).

Participation was kinda low since i announced it like 2 weeks before Christmas but i think it was a successful start.

I would love to do this again for this year so i made this poll to see if there is general interest for such a thing.

http://www.strawpoll.me/11636340

Pic related is what i saw and saved from last years gifts.

>>50209147
>>50209021
>>50208913
Newfag here. Who is chinaman? Some recaster?

>>50202275
Clean up those mold lines, it looks better and provides a smoother surface to pain on. Agrax Earthshade is your friend. Do something simple: Base, shade, highlight until you build up your comfort level and skill to do layering.

And thin your paints.

And watch Duncan.

>>50210435
link to duncan pls?

>>50210382
yes

>>50204206
Looks dang good anon, some extra highlights on that cloak and you'll be in good shape.

>>50210457
"Warhammer TV" on youtube. You will find it yourself.

>>50205793
Sweet. Weathering looks good on these guys too.

you...got any more DG we could see?

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First of 3 blight drones, I'm happy enough

>>50210502
You should be

>>50210458
How do you reach him?

>>50209665
you can try smoother greenstuffing next time by rubbing it with a moistened finger or a smooth rubbery tool.

Liquid green stuff smells great.

>>50210333
Could you explain what is Secret Santa for a newfag?

>>50210333
Awwww I got the stuff in the bottom right hand corner, and it's making me feel feelsy and Christmasy again. Was a great idea last year Anon, and id definitely be interested again.

Miss you Germanbro.

>>50210733
Not SantAnon, but basically you get given an address and you post a /tg/ related gift there, and then someone sends one to you, and it goes in a bit circle of anonymous gift giving.

I explained that really badly but can't think of how to do it any better.

>>50210750
But who would give his adress to someone on 4chan? You have 80% chances to recieve used diapers or sperm filled chocolate...

>>50210606
https://mega.nz/#F!kAURFLJJ!uJBVpVV55Y1LIx6s9e1N6A
Nobz(attt)VIP.163.com

>>50210786
The point of a secret santa is to actually give gifts, not junk. I mean, it's Christmas after all.

>>50210786
This is /tg/.

We're the (in relative terms) friendly productive part of 4chan.

>>50210606
Other one:
https://mega.nz/#F!IJ9GUCRI!QMTl6xiB0DfKpje3bnw94Q
Coolcastornot(attt)VIP.163.com

>>50210606
You can also find chinacasts on aliexpress.

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>>50210818

>$5 characters
>mfw

I have yet to buy anything, but I heard he hasn't been taking new clients.

>>50210786
And thats why we did this on /tg/ and /wip/ in particular and not on /b/.
Nobody got junk last year (at least nobody complained)

>>50210935
I wrote him last week and ordered a character miniature and he accepted the order.

>>50210946

Interesting. What was shipping like? I'm east coast. Was it just a single character?

>>50210937
>>50210786
I mean, we masterbate to fantasy creatures, /d/ tier shit, and dream about being in fantasy world and paint and play with toy soldiers, but we're still nicer than most people.
I guess its because we have to communicate to hobby.

>>50210733
>>50210333

Like >>50210750 already explained, its about sending a gift to a random person and in return, getting one.
I think the limit was like $15 for the gift.
I created an email for the purpose and people could mail me their address, and in return got sent one of the other addresses and then they could send away their gift.


There are 13 "yes" votes already btw,
so i guess we will do it again this year. I'll post a pic with infos for a week in each thread starting tomorrow.

>>50210958
He asked for $3 for the mini and $3 for shipping (to EU).

>>50210935
Don't think so, put my first order a few months ago and now a buddy ordered some, no problems.

>>50210958
Highest shipping is $19.5, depending on package size and weight

>>50211038

>EU

Hrm. Might be a lot more for the US, but still, that's awesome. How does payment work? PayPal?

>>50211059

Ah ok, thanks. Not sure what I want to order. Maybe the sisters I need to start working on the rest of my combi-plas, which would be 5 models.

Or start getting some more deldar. Maybe actually get a CTC formation.

>>50211050

Well, that's assuring.

>>50211086
>PayPal?
Yes

I asked for a AoS mini and what the final price for shipping to Europe would be and he told me. Then i asked for a Paypal invoice and he sent it.

Just ask him. Its not like he gets your money right away.

>>50211112

Fair.

Idk, I guess I'm just being a sperg about it because I feel like it's some crazy back alley deal or something.

>>50210839
>>50210818
need decryption key tho

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>>50207876

>built the 5 liberators

I just feel tired, jesus fucking christ, this hobby is not for me.
I still have 3 prosecutors to build. Then the painting begins, don't want to think about it.

At least I didn't waste my money.

>>50211210
Should be link incl key anon

>>50211210

>decryption key

What? I just downloaded both with no issue.

On that topic, what is the purpose of the second one? More expensive with less options?

>>50211530
Better quality, and has more frequent sales. Also free shipping above 35$

>>50211544

>sales

How do people know this?

Still, he doesn't seem to have anything I'm looking for anyway.

>>50207779
>>50207982
>there are people so new they've never seen a cairn wraith cryptek/techpriest

>>50203436
Yeah I would almost suggest complimentary color be restricted to small bits - squad numbers and plasma glow and such. I actually think orange touches on the green-blue base you have would look awesome, but it's
Probably too much for
Like a cloak or something major:

>>50211563
Look for yoyhammer on Google.also, he sends emails after yout first order

>>50211516
you mean the key is in the URL or in the link? Huh? that made no sense

>>50202659
Those colours are gorgeous, anon. Nice work.

>>50211655
What kind of key do you want? I don't get what you mean

>>50211632

Ah ok.

Hrm. Maybe I'll order Avenger Strike Fighter from him to try it out. $55 doesn't seem too bad for it, though I don't know how good it actually is. Also don't remember the book.

>>50211682
well, when i go to those linked websites it asks for decryption key, or a password in another words, otherwise cant do jack shit there.

>>50211703
that shouldn't happen though. there are just 4 and 5 files with price lists there to download.

>>50211720
thats odd, ill try another browser

>>50211736
>>50211720
Nope, still asks for PW regardless of browser, whatever, i have other recast contacts...

>>50211692
got an Avenger from CCON and the quality was great, even the pilots had no problems at all

>>50211810

That's good to know. I might actually grab one then. Z has it up for $24, but that seems too good to be true when Z Void Ravens are $40.

My sisters might get some air support. Huh.

>>50211842
don't forget that CCON has a 45% discount on FW if you order over 80$ of stuff, and today is the last day

>>50205236
What is this model and who painted it?

>>50211893
Why do you do this to me?

So if I ordered $80 worth of stuff, I'd pay $44?

>>50211915
Yes, go on and order that Warlord Titan

>>50208882
>Is it at all possible to brush those paints on, or do you pretty much have to have an airbrush?

MEK solvent attacks plastic, so brushing it on makes a large concentration to make the plastic brittle or into goop over time. MEK is the substance found in plastic cements/welds. The more plastic resin mixed into the MEK, the thicker it is and takes longer to dry. ie, Tamiya Extra Thin cement is closer to pure MEK.

Scale modelers airbrush these lacquers (read: MEK-solvent based paints) is not only for the the quality of finish, but to also quickly evaporate the volatile solvent that would attack the plastic. By atomizing the paint, the surface area of each particle increases, so the exposure and evaporation rate is increased.

tl;dr DO NOT BREATHE IN MEK FUMES, use a properly-specced respirator.

>>50204880
Actually, acrylic paints are allergic to lacquers. They eat acrylics easily.

>>50211927

I can't actually afford a WL atm, but God dammit.

He doesn't have repressors, does he? I'm not seeing them.

>>50211950
>Actually, acrylic paints are allergic to lacquers. They eat acrylics easily.
In this case, either way works, as it relates to damage to your airbrush, but you are correct, the lacquer eats the paint residue.

>>50203666
>that shit was rife with pubes.


HOW

HOW

How on earth did the dudes pubes get all over the stuff?

>>50211893

Fuck. I can actually find anything I want to order that brings me to 80 that I'll actually be able to use.

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>>50209018
>You can't convince me that Duncan didn't do this in his spare time.

I know you're being facetious, but:

http://louisesugdenart.tumblr.com/


>>50211909
>What is this model and who painted it?

It represents a Tzeentch Lord of Change, although I don't know what the base model is. Louise "SavageOrkAnon" Sudgen painted it. She used to post here occasionally until her job at Forge World took up all her time.

>>50211909
like >>50212386 said, Louise Sudgen painted it, as for the base model, it looks like there's a Tomb Kings Necrosphinx, with a High Elf Phoenix supplying the wings and head.
The shield appears to be a Disc of Tzeentch of some kind, and I honestly don't have a clue where the Staff came from.

>>50209838
>Milliput wash
not the original guy but what is this?

>>50212547
Seconding this. I have two tubes of Aves Apoxie sculpt so I'm hesitant to buy Milliput, but I'm curious anyway.

I wonder if anyone here uses Aves and tries to accelerate the cure time by using more hardener in the mix.

in b4 just buy Milliput for the faster cure time

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So i made this little pic for this years Secret Santa. (yes, i suck at this)
Send an email until the 1st of December if you want to participate.

>>50212677
>>50212547
Also, what's the difference between the different milliputs for modelling? Does it make a difference? I accidentaly bought a standard milliput when I meant to buy the fine stuff, does it really make a difference?

>>50212840
It depends on how you want it to use.

For filling gaps, it doesn't matter. For sculpting faces or other finest details, you want a fine putty.

>>50212839

Sounds neat. Should we also note what were interested in? Like, it would be weird sending a 40k gift to a WMH player.

>>50212935
Personally i don't think thats a good idea.
a) it makes it more time consuming for me to match people
b) it kinda defeats the surprise and the secret

But if most of you want this then i will comply, no problem.

I am going to start a ultramarine legion force and I really want to hammer home the Roman aesthetic. Any ideas on how to do this thematically?

Also looking for basing ideas?

>>50212935
point's just to send one-off models to other dudes in the thread

paint up something you don't normally

>>50212974
What if you just included what you play as a bit of information, not a requirement for what to get? Modelling supplies could be useful for a lot of games, if your secret santa doesn't also play your game


What if you want to include something worth more than $15

Dont get too erect guys, im just asking in case.

>>50213107
>What if you just included what you play as a bit of information, not a requirement for what to get?

Sure, why not.

>What if you want to include something worth more than $15

The 10-15 is just there to have a somewhat average level. Its supposed to be a small gift after all. If you happen to be a millionaire then feel free to send a bigger gift, i doubt the recipient would complain.

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Super early days and a pretty poor picture, but my test model is tarting to look nice and grimey

>>50213107
>What if you want to include something worth more than $15
I'll be honest, I have a bunch of prospero heroes laying about, I may send one out.

>>50213094

That makes sense.

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How might I replicate the colour scheme used on these example bases, I'm still new and not great and picking what colours are used and how.
Also GW store is shut today and I need Mephiston Red, all I have is Wazdakka, Evil Sunz and Khorne. Is there an easy mix to achieve a lookalike Mephiston?

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okay guys, this is my first ever model that Ive painted, how can I git gud

>>50213446
You gotta work on your lighting man. It's hard to tell what's shaded or highlighted when a direct, hard light is blowing the contrast out.

>>50213446
> 3.05 MB
everytime

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>>50213446

>>50204715
best ork scheme i ever dun saw, well painted

>>50212547
Milliput is a popular inexpensive sculpting material with a long working time (about 2 hours). This working time can be extended with water.

If you add lots of water, it becomes very thin and can be used as a wash to fill bubbles and smooth surfaces.

>>50213597

Bad at painting, bad at image editing, bad at life what did you expect from idiots.

>>50213446
I can't even tell if it's fully painted. Use a fucking light box, man or at least set your exposure properly

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Finished my priest. Reds a fine colour to paint

>>50214362
The first thing about this that actually caught me was the base, and how I'd hate to trudge through slushy shit like that in robes. Good job.

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Hey fa/tg/uys,
If you, like me, have very little money to spend on a miniature game, then you might end up buying second hand figures on ebay or craigslist. Chances are the items were painted horribly, so I wanted to make a short tutorial on how to remove old paint so you can start fresh.

First, take your model and a small tub you can work in.

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>>50214712
Next, you will need a solvent. If your model is not clear coated you can use simple rubbing alcohol. If you do have a varnish on your model you will need a solvent to eat through it. Simple green works well but dollar stores have a product called Awesome, which is well, Awesome. Wear gloves so it doesn't hurt your skin. just spray the model with a few squirts and the clear coat will be eaten away in minutes.

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>>50214744
Using a gentle scrubbing sponge you can easily scrub away the paint revealing the plastic underneath. Awesome does not harm plastic and is safe for metal too. The longer you leave the awesome on the less scrubbing you need to do.

Here you can see half of the paint easily removed.

>>50214768
If you choose to soak your miniature you can fill the container with a mixture of water and Awesome. I like to use a 1:5 awesome to water ratio. Warm water works better. Even if you dilute Awesome, be sure to wear gloves, it will irritate your skin.

Would applying druchii violet as shade for tyranids with an already purple carapace be too much?
Should I use nuln oil instead?

>>50214920
Do you want the shadow to be purple or black? If you have the druchii violet on hand it sounds like it will work. If you have the nuln oil try it and see if you like it. If you don't like how it looks you can always strip the model.

>>50214920
too much? not at all. depends on if you want a darker purple on your recesses, or a brown-ish shade on them.

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Blu-tacking together my first breacher. I am excited to have these shields, even if I don't get to play ZM games a lot.

>>50214967

Forgot to mention that I want to shade the skin if it wasn't clear.

I like the thought of it, what can be used to strip plastic models?

>>50215074
read this >>50214712

>>50215074
Super Clean, Castrol super clean, simple green
lots of choices.

>>50202275
I put two layers of Athonian Camoshade over white primer then a layer of Nuln oil. i find that using the Ryza rust over Typhus Corrosion works really good in conjunction with this.

>>50215423
>shade over primer
You heretic

>>50202761
He'll help your models look rrrreeally khool.

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>>50215465
these guys are shade over primer

>>50215465

I saw many videos of people doing it, why shouldn't you?

>>50215465
>>50215653
It creates deeper lowlights, but it's also kinda pointless if you're using a base paint on top of the primer, since the base paint will just overwrite your shades on the undercoat.

If you go from Primer straight to layers, then yea it's fine to put washes on top of your primer. For example, Based-duncan paints skeletons by putting Agrax Earthshade on top of white primer, and then highlighting.

>>50215653
it's fine for doing more boring models, but base paints normally provide a richer color compared to primers. it's fine for things like nurgle shit, though, because its supposed to look like shit.

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Novice painter starting to paint my deathwatch
Looking for overly negative feedback on how to make it look less shit

>>50210818
Moron here. Is there a particular ordering format that BC likes to see?

>>50215027
What's da link for the shields?

>>50214362
fine work

>>50216143
Looks like you got bored painting all black so you put on too much paint at once. That is why you can see the brush strokes. Edge highlighting is okay and even but you should really pick out a few key points and bring the highlight one shade higher, closer to white. I have no idea why you painted over the windshield. Your metals are just chainmail with nuln oil over them and then an edge highlight. The nuln oil dried messy and looks messy, I would drybrush over them with some chainmale to even them out. The reds are pretty flat. Instead, try a brighter shade of red to make it pop. Over all you went with a boring black color scheme and you got a boring black color scheme 6/10

Don't you die on me.

>>50210333

Thats a really cool idea, I'll definately be participating. Would be nice to make some anon happy.

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>>50200943
>Where is Johnny?

Texas.

>>50216627
>Don't you die on me.

Looks like it's going that way. Fortunately, I have a remedy:

>>50216744
>>50216744
>>50216744

Guys, I'm about to dive into this hobby headfirst tomorrow. I'm pretty damn nervous about fucking it up, I could use all the pointers you guys can spare. Me and an equally unexperienced friend will be getting starter packs of death eater courts and sylvaneth respectively. What colors of paints should I get? Can you use any color for primer? Whats this nuln oil you guys speak of? Whats the point of washes? Are you supposed to use a sealant after you finish painting? It's pretty overwhelming

>>50212486
>>50212386

The Herald of Tzeentch on Burning Chariot kit comes with 2 Discs of Tzeentch. The shield on that mini is one of them and the disc on top of the staff is the other. All the books and scrolls on that thing are also from the same kit.
Not sure where the staff, wings, or head came from but the rest of it is a Khemrian Necrosphynx.

im a super beginner to this hobby and i got a question about greenstuff, you dont glue it right it just hardens itself over time. also how long should u leave it before moving onto painting etc.

>>50212839
Email is out

>>50216257
I always write new order - country -name as the subject. Email looks like this:
Hello god sir! I want to order the following from you, please check the prices and product codes and apply your discount (if it applies).

F-296 Chaos War Mammoth
$ 145
W-164 Chaos Hellcannon
$ 20
W-158
Lord of Khorne on Juggernaut
$ 10.60
W-366 Skarr Bloodwrath
$ 6.50
W-215 Valkya the Bloody
$ 5

I want to pay with PayPal.
Best regards


Then, he replies with his codes, total amount incl shipping and PayPal fee, the I reply: correct, send me a PayPal invoice and ship to the following address and then I get a PayPal invoice via email which I pay. Then he sends me an email that he received payment and will be shipping soon.
6-8weeks later, I get my package :)