WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
[YouTube] The Lord Inquisitor - "Grey Knights" Teaser [UHD] (embed)
What's the point of this one

File: IMG_20161019_231826.jpg (771KB, 2304x2304px) Image search: [Google]

771KB, 2304x2304px

What secondary colors go well with oxidized bronze?

>>49876929
Green can compliment the verdigris with a purer color. Purple is a bit too clashing. You're left with orange, then, which works about as well as green but in a contrasting sense.

>>49876929
Okay. You need to stop, take a step back and look at what you are doing, beacause as of right now you are not doing it right.

Are you priming the miniatures before you paint them? Have you removed any of the mold lines? Are you painting with dedicated miniature paints, or did you buy some cheap stuff at the dollar store, or are you maybe painting with enamel paints? What kind of brush are you using?

When you are painting, make sure you start with the main color, and apply it to all the areas you want to be this color. When this is completely dry, do it again, then maybe do it again. You can stop once you have a smooth consistent color on all these areas. More often than not you will want to start with a dark base color, and once you are happy with the conistency of the color, you move on to the brighter, more vibrant color you actually want, and apply this in several thin layers to the areas you already painted.
The models you have posted so far look like you just slapped on some paint wherever you felt like, and expected it to magically look good. That is not how it works. When starting out, you need to focus on getting good, consistent coats, and on not getting any paint on areas you don't want them on.

I have lots of stuff to add, but you really need to just look up painting tutorials on the internet and read and watch as much as possible. Also you need to practice, and not post every attempt you make here and expect us to fix it for you. Sure we can help, but you have to do this yourself

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

mechanical breathing) am...dead."

File: Beard.png (507KB, 565x782px) Image search: [Google]

507KB, 565x782px

Show me your terrain /tg/

>>49877309
do you store your models in a pile of cat hair?

>>49877309
>clean off the pubes
>paints too similar, model looks like little green army man plastic
>otherwise good

Paint question guys. Recently moved and my local hobby shop stocks Tamiya or Humbrol. Which would be the best one to mix into my current selection of GW paints or doesn't it make a bit of difference? If it's all the same, which one is the better paint choice?

>>49876929
Every fucking thread you do this and don't take any advice. Fuck off.

File: IMG_1523.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

More blood angels! Did some cleaning up on the dreadnought, I'm nearly satisfied with it. Still lots of clean up to do on the chaplain.

File: IMG_1522.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>49877636

File: IMG_1524.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

>>49877659

>>49877636
> opened pic to shit all over the models
> Oh snap. They look great
You ruin my trolling anon. Excellent job. Hail Sanguinius

What difference is there between Reiksland Fleshshade and Agrax earthshade? I dont want to waste more money on pots so I think id just do skin with agrax to save money. If I thin it will it be lighter?

>>49877514
Tamiya and humbrol are enamels, aren't they?

They're ass for miniature painting and do not mix with GW/Army Painter/P3/Vallejo/whatever, which are acrylics.

>>49876929
Know what would go EXCELLENT with that?
> Simple Green.
Apply liberally.

>>49877720
Flesh shade is more a red shade. Earthshade brown.

>>49877720
Reiksland Fleshshade contains a lot more red and pink relative to Agrax. If you're working with darker than "fair" skin tones I imagine you can get away with Agrax if you're careful.

Thinning it is something I'd recommend to reduce coverage or your faces and skin will look they just ran a "tough-mudder" race or something.
Though I'd probably use Lahmian Medium (or any other acrylic medium) over just plain water, you do not want to mess with the consistency too much, it still needs to act like a wash after all.

>>49877727
Tamiya is actually a bit of a hybrid acrylic.
They use glycol-ether and IPA as solvent rather than water, but they can be thinned with water as those particular solvents dissolve just fine in water.

Humbrol Enamels use something that's more like an oil base and it does not play nice with water.

>>49877309
>using one tone of green across the boar
you may as well have done him in Green stuff! use variations of colour, Nurgle is disease - and diseases/decay and such on skin and armor is a plethora of hues.

>>49877790
following up on lahmian medium. adding medium to a shade can make it behave more like a glaze than a shade. this is useful to keep in mind for certain effects.

File: DSC_0012.jpg (3MB, 3920x2204px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3920x2204px

So I bought a tactical squad to teach myself to paint and cut my teeth on.

Left guy was really just looking at paint thickness and learning that I primed them too much. Right guy was really practicing neatness and edge highlighting. Not sure what I SHOULD be highlighting on marines but I gave it a go. Next piece I'll try washing. I also lamed I'm not happy with some colours. Auric Armour Gold is a little too yellow for my taste.

>>49877876
I also lamed I should paint my dudes Abaddon-style.

>>49877636
>>49877659
>>49877676
You're getting there. To take it to the next level, you need to work on your highlights. They look very thick in places when they should be thin and sharp. Also, fucking moldlines dude.

>>49877727
>>49877827
I thought they both did a line of water-based acrylics?

>>49878002
do they? I mean it might be worth checking out, but I have doubts they'd be as good as the usual suspects.

>>49878002
Humbrol does have a line of water based paints, but most people think of their enamels when they hear the name, rather than their Aqua line, which is indeed water-based.

As for Tamiya, their paint-line is water compatible, but definitely not water based. Glycol-ether and Propanol all over the place there.
Perfectly fine with being mixed with water, but might act funky if mixed with normal acrylics.

>>49877876
on the GW site they had an article about how to paint completely black Black Templars and make it not look like trash, it was pretty indepth about highlighting

>>49877659
I like the black/red/gold design on this, makes it pop.

Hello there.

I have a small question : are Space Wolves complex to paint and assemble ? I've never assembled or painted any 40k figurines before but I've been eyeing the Deathwatch rulebook wondering if one could make and play with just a little squad of marines against whatever, and I really like the Space Wolves furs and trophies on their armors.

Although I'm still intimidated with the painting and assembling aspect. I don't want to fuck it up.

>>49878106
Well crap. Guess I better hope it's not humbrol enamels then.

>>49878219
They're as complex as you want to make them really. Space Marines on the whole are very straightforward to put together.
You have a lot of options, but it all goes together in a logical way.

Clean up the bits before glueing, and keep an eye on what you should leave off to not get in your way while painting (guns often go in front of the chest for instance).

As for painting itself, they are space marines, they're essentially giant blocks of colour, so there's not much to actually "ruin" about it.
Sure your first minis won't be winning any competitions, but if you thin your paints and don't gunk stuff up you'll be doing better than most people starting out.

As for the wolfy bits, they're more intricate and complex to paint, but sticking them to the model should be very straightforward too, they're basically just add-ons to the basic marine shape.

>>49878333
I see, guess I shoudn't be too intimidated.
Are the Space Wolves furs and little details bits sold separatly ?

>>49878221
Check the selection out, but buying paint online (or finding a slightly less local shop) may be the way to go.

>>49876508
its good. and needs attention.

>>49878221
the enamels come in metal tubs.

File: 14695420_10207115996726332_542633851087043123_n.jpg (38KB, 496x540px) Image search: [Google]

38KB, 496x540px

Just painted this guy up. Got the rest of his squad to do before they go on ebay or some shit

>>49878373
there is a space wolf box of tactical marines, that stands alone. called long fangs, i think. not sure.

>>49878373
The current Warhammer 40k Space Wolves have their own unique sprues, with a lot of the wolfy bits "baked" into the model by default.

However there is a separate Space Wolves Upgrade Pack available, which you could probably use to Wolf-out your characters more with options not in the basic Space Wolf box, or upgrade a standard unit to be a bit more wolfy than standard.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Wolves-Upgrades

>>49878373
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Wolves-Pack-2016
This is the basic Space Wolf unit for the army.
The Start Collecting Box for Space Wolves might also be useful if you can use all the models from it (as it includes 3 Wolf Cavalry and a character on top of the 10 basic Space Wolves at a nice discount)

>>49878590
>>49878543
>>49878541

Thanks friends, I'll definitly check it out, the basic Space wolf unit looks good.
Also wanted to correct myself : I talked about the deathwatch rulebook when I wanted to say Kill team rulebook.

For practical economic reasons I was thinking that a ruleset built around "bring around 10 characters and have a jolly good fight" was a good choice.

>>49878646
>For practical economic reasons I was thinking that a ruleset built around "bring around 10 characters and have a jolly good fight" was a good choice.

Perfectly understandable if you're just starting out, have fun Anon.
Don't be shy about asking for help here either.
Some of us will no doubt be harsh about things, but on the whole this is a really helpful thread to get help from.

>>49878737
Thanks again for the words of encouragement, friend. At the end of the day I really just want to be able to assemble and paint 10 Space Wolves and 10 Necrons so that I can play some tabletop with a friend of mine.

Last question : would you recommend finding a GW shop to paint the figure there, or buy paint and brushes on the web ?

>>49877973
Oh man all I see now isn't the MASSIVE MOULD LINE on the crozius. Need to fix that.

>>49878821
Painting at a FLGS (GW or otherwise) means that you'll have help on hand, and sometimes you can even use their supplies.
Buying the supplies online mean you save money compared to actually buying it at a shop, but you'll be working by yourself mostly.

That's really about personal preference if I'm honest, I really can't tell you to choose one over the other.

What are the differences between Vallejo and Reaper paints? Do both chip as easily when the coats aren't sealed in?

Secondly, has anyone attempted to see what happens when you mix in a drop of Future into some Vallejos when painting? Like how does it turn out when fully cured?

>>49877514
>>49877727
>>49878002
>>49878024
>>49878106

Tamiya acrylics thin down better with IPA than with water. In fact they even thin down better with Mr Hobby lacquer thinners, strangely.

At the same time, a layer of Tamiya acrylics will attack underlying layers of other branded acrylics due to the IPA content.

>>49877876
>I primed them too much
>>lumpy primer layer

If this a problem, gently wetsand the fully cured primer layer with a 1500 grit (or much higher grit like 5k or 8k) sponge.

>>49879027
>What are the differences between Vallejo and Reaper paints? Do both chip as easily when the coats aren't sealed in?

The Reaper Paints are probably best compared to Vallejo Game Color (and to some extent, Vallejo Game Air) as they all use a "tougher" resin in their mix. This makes them a little more scratch and chip resistant, as they're paints designed for models used in games. They're still best sealed in though, especially if you're using metal models.

Vallejo Model Color paints are all about display quality, and as such are more vulnerable to chipping and scratching.
They're not meant to be played with. If sealed they'll be fine obviously.

I don't have too much experience with Reaper, as they're hard to get in Europe. I only have like 3-4 triads.
They're gorgeous colours, and dry a little slower than most acrylic paints, which makes them quite suitable to blending.
And have a mix of bold colours and muted realistic ones.

Game Color is a range designed as a copy-cat to GWs previous colour range.
So it has bold, strong colours rather than muted realistic tones.
The same applies to Game Air, but it's designed for airbrush rather than normal painting.

Model Color is realism first, colour second, this is a range of muted, realistic colours mainly designed for military modelling.
Not many bold choices, but a very wide range of colours available (like hundreds). Model Air is the same concept, but for airbrushing.

File: IMG_20161020_181714856.jpg (4MB, 5344x3006px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5344x3006px

Finally finished painting my saurus
Pretty happy with the end result

File: #12 Zalora wip2.jpg (735KB, 1395x1236px) Image search: [Google]

735KB, 1395x1236px

Finally got back to painting today. She's getting there. I'm liking this darklining technique; feels a lot better than washing ever did.

That said, photography is hard. White background and the mini is too dark. Black background and it's too bright. Still looks better than white did, but she's a bit washed out by the lighting. I guess blue is next to try, maybe it'll be a good medium.

File: deldar.jpg (969KB, 4128x2322px) Image search: [Google]

969KB, 4128x2322px

Hi anyone got any thoughts on my new deldar color scheme?

>>49880035
Cum and Rasberry filling.

>>49879050
It was a rattlecan primer. Does that still apply?

>>49880109
hehe

File: image.jpg (1MB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2592x1936px

Recently started shading recesses with a micropen instead of washes. I'll never go back.

File: image.jpg (70KB, 500x484px) Image search: [Google]

70KB, 500x484px

>>49880109

>>49878646
If you want a ten unit army give malifaux a look if people near you play it

File: terrain j 01.jpg (766KB, 820x1724px) Image search: [Google]

766KB, 820x1724px

>>49877332

File: IMG_20161020_143045.jpg (881KB, 954x1280px) Image search: [Google]

881KB, 954x1280px

Finished Slenderman

File: IMG_20161020_143001.jpg (797KB, 942x1200px) Image search: [Google]

797KB, 942x1200px

>>49880364

File: Warrior1_v5_cc.jpg (283KB, 2656x1494px) Image search: [Google]

283KB, 2656x1494px

Hoping for some C&C. What can I do better for the next set of arms / the next Warrior?

File: terrain j 02.jpg (743KB, 1139x1342px) Image search: [Google]

743KB, 1139x1342px

>>49877332

>>49878821
Like the other anon said, unless you're wanting to save a bit of coin on paints etc, there's nothing to be lost by going into a store. Staff are always cool helping out newbies. Also, try GW's painting videos. Always useful. https://www.youtube.com/user/GamesWorkshopWNT/videos

File: image.jpg (34KB, 499x314px) Image search: [Google]

34KB, 499x314px

>>49880109
Godamnit.

>>49880396
All I can suggest is maybe highlight all the edges of the carapace, it looks a bit unfinished. other than that nice job anon

>>49877514
I've not been painting long but Humbrol seem to work well. Their acrylic paints require quite a bit of shaking before using or you they seem to separate noticeably into different colours. My only real criticism is that after looking at their website they don't seem to have acylic shades of purple at all.

>>49880596
Thanks. I was just trying to get the high ridges with the lightest purple. If it makes it seem unfinished I can go over the rest of the edges with that shade too.

>>49877636
That base turns me on, anon. Espcially the bullet hole by its foot...

>>49880364

this is pretty rad.

What are some good cheap ways to make simple terrain buildings and trees?

File: 20161020_203151-1600x900.jpg (369KB, 1600x900px) Image search: [Google]

369KB, 1600x900px

IT BEGINS
fuck you perry brothers these models are fantastic but mold lines diagonally on the faces? You sick fucks

>>49880808
You can always go back and do those areas with an even lighter shade, I see the effect you were going for now

File: vyronii.jpg (36KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 640x480px

Finally got around to magnetizing the weapons of my first Knight of two. One more to go and then I might get around to painting them, one House Vyronii, one probably House Lakar.

>>49880991
the wonders of mid-90's pewter casting

did you get any heavy/special weapon teams as well? The generic commander?

>>49881061
I got the made to order stuff but that's still another 3 weeks to wait
2 flamers 2 meltas and a lientuant

>>49881155
Good stuff. The lieutenant is probably my favorite valhallan.

File: cardboardcity.pdf (1B, 486x500px)

1B, 486x500px

>>49880885
this and go to a railway model shop to buy some cheap trees.
Put them on a base so you got woods.
Some of them got a wire above the trunk so you can remove the trees for ease of play or if you play something using regiment bases.

Alternately you can put the trees onto separate bases. You can get some premade mdf bases for this.

File: spiderman neat.jpg (8KB, 250x202px) Image search: [Google]

8KB, 250x202px

>>49880458
Nice!

My only critizim is that it seems like it would be hard to balance models upright on the ground floor. I might also like to see the edges of the base beveled to be at a 45 degree angle.

Other than that, its head and shoulders above most terrain you see.

>>49881191
Honestly it was him or commander "human life's are worth nothing so let's get rid of them" chenkov.
He goes look cool with his Saber chainsword and neat hat.

>>49881370
Chenkov's too.. stereotypical for my taste. Giant fur trim coat? A boyar hat and fucking handlebar 'stache?

He's the precursor to the vostroyans and looks totally out of place next to the not-WW2 valhallans.

>>49881498
His bolter has a fucking edgy skull on it.
He's practically chaos also.
Too be fair the lientuant is a copy paste of polish ww2 lieutenants and generala who had coloured ropes to signify ranks which I like.

>>49881524
The skull pistol is kinda cute. I wish they'd include more little details like that in modern stuff.

>>49880458
I wanna do a Civilized world one of these, without the shitty metal inside tiles and shit, Wood floors bitch. wood fucking floors

>>49881301
>good-looking terrain
>practical terrain

Pick one, unfortunately

File: GLORY TO LAKAR.png (863KB, 961x1013px) Image search: [Google]

863KB, 961x1013px

>>49881020
This is how I'll probably paint the House Lakar one. Opinions?

>>49881301
The terrain belongs to a friend of mine. He doesn't make terrain with putting miniatures on it in mind.

>>49881252
Awesome, thanks

File: painting_sigmars_wrath.jpg (64KB, 1131x412px) Image search: [Google]

64KB, 1131x412px

>>49877876
>Auric Armour Gold is a little too yellow for my taste.

Auric Armour Gold (formerly Burnished Gold) is the highlight colour that you add to brighten something deeper like Gehenna Gold (formerly Shining Gold). You then add Runefang Steel (formerly Mithril Silver) as the highest of highlights.

Additionally:

-- Basecoat the area you want to be gold with brown or a dark (Mephiston) red before applying the gold over it.
-- Wash the gold afterward. This tutorial says Devlan Mud, which is very close to the blood of our saint, Agrax Earthshade. Seraphim Sepia also looks nice.

File: plastic_dread_base.jpg (22KB, 400x400px) Image search: [Google]

22KB, 400x400px

>>49880832
>That base turns me on, anon. Espcially the bullet hole by its foot...

The way he painted it, or the way it is sculpted? That's the standard plastic base that has come with plastic Codex dreadnoughts since Third Edition.

>>49879257
Pretty nice anon. Anything in mind for basing?

File: bordernids.jpg (92KB, 800x770px) Image search: [Google]

92KB, 800x770px

>>49876354

Whatever happened to that guy who was gonna paint a Tyranids army in the same scheme as Ultramarines?
Ultranids, we were calling him.

Ultranids, where you at?

>>49882461
Shoot, I was going to ask that.


Iirc, he said he had to move, so he wasn't going to be able to do it for a while.

>>49881370
I like how Chenkov scared even Commissars.

In Imperial Valhalla, Chenkov executes Commissars!

>>49882461
How many people playing Hive Fleet Ultra would it take to make it become canon?

>>49882542
Enough for GW to notice.

Hive Fleet Ultra is one of my favorite things I helped make on here.

I'd totally start them too, if I had cash and wasn't bust saving up for a 30k Iron Warriors force.

>>49882542
There is no canon, only propaganda, misinformation and incomplete information blended into a smoothie.

>>49882563
I remember that thread too. Shit, I thought that guy's blood axes idea was really novel too

>>49882582
Agreed.

IG based Orkz and SM based Nids would be great to see.

Why am I posting here when I should be writing a paper I haven't started that's due tomorrow?

>>49882461
So did you replace the gold with yellow or what?

Do you guys have that one "secret weapon" that fixes your small mistakes and lazily done parts on models immediately after using?

For me it's Badab Black on stuff like silver or gold grills, chains and sinilar stuff. Gives those parts so much depth with so little effort, I love it.

Asked last thread already but got no answer:

How do I go about modifying fully painted Ass Termies with claws to add magnets to their arms without breaking the entire paintjob and shoulders? Used poly cement to glue them on, though I was thinking if cutting the arms off below the shoulder armor might work.

>>49882705
Base, nuln oil, base again, adds tons of depth and is super easy. Good starting base for most models.

>>49882705
Brown ink on gold, brown ink on parchment, brown ink on skin... Especially on skin. Inkwashes make me feel so lazy, but they get decent, quick results for so many things.

File: group.jpg (144KB, 1024x576px) Image search: [Google]

144KB, 1024x576px

Imperial Assault shits

>>49879237
Gunpla modeller here with some paint-related health problems.

>this makes them a little more scratch and chip resistant
>Vallejo Model Color paints are not meant to be played with

Feels like I made a mistake gathering up a bunch of Vallejo Model colors.

I have a choice between switching out entirely over to Game color, or switching totally over to Reaper (I have about five bottles for color matching purposes).

Not sure what to do, please advise.

>>49879027
I use future and vallejo, it basically makes it into a wash, the downside being that vallejo dries very matte normally but any amount of future makes everything super glossy. I seal with future and liquitex matte varnish after that anyway so it doesn't matter much to me but some people don't like the difference between the gloss wash and matte paints

>>49880173
Rattlecan primer? Very yes. Wetsanding to fix up a primer layer is common for automotive painting and for scale model cars.

They even wetsand the clear coats/topcoats to get a good glossy finish.

>>49880364
I'd pick out the details more, it kind of looks like it's just been basecoated with an airbrush and that's it. Using the game board for a backdrop is a damn good idea, gonna have to do that for mine in the future because plain white looks bad behind them.

File: 1477024303401-446152740.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x1836px

I love warpstone glow for ork skin the higher skin tones before highlighting with moot green, but the stuff is too runny even prior to thinning, so much so that it actually seeps into the dark recesses. Should I just wash the damn thing with Biel-Tan green or nuln oil, or is there a better way?

Any advice on infantry camo painting, going for Blood Axe Orks and trying to go for the gaudy early edition ork camos, my only saving grace being Orks are fine with a mix and match. Advice on camo designs and how you would go about with various schemes. I've found three colors works out pretty well, although 2 can be fine if you match the colors righ just anything you can give a bad starting painter advice wise.

And I may as well unveil this horror
>Painting Blood Axes
>Mismatched camo schemes, stripes on one article of clothing, tri-color spots on another
>hanging out with brother while doing this
>"Man bro, coming up with different things is starting to get a bit tedious"
>brother looks over and jokingly says, "Try to do black and yellow for a camo scheme"
>"Great idea"
>begin with black pants and place yellow stripes on it
>show brother progress
>he looks visibly disgusted
>nice bumblebee design
>another idea strikes, this time in the form of yellow shoes with black stripes
>brother is now pissed, "What, are you going to add a stinger too, dickhead"
>go quiet for a minute as I paint the rest of his design
>unveil the final step
>brother watching as I paint an ork chainsword sans arm
>"Oh cool is that going to be slung on the back or - "
>He doesn't get a chance, as I reveal where I placed it.
>pic related
>A shout of "What is your fucking problem!?" fills the house

On one hand I know fully well I'm an asshole, but on the other hand I wanted to see what I could get away with. Still no base yet, trying to get all of my other orks fitted with camp schemes.

>>49883659
Seal it with some matte varnish? You should be sealing pretty much everything anyway if it's going to be handled a lot.

>>49882705
I'm a follower of the church of Based Duncan - agrax earthshade

>>49883826
How do you guys like Reaper's brush on sealer as opposed to Vallejo varnishes?

On the primer side I've actually had reasonable results (surface detail retention, sandability) with Badger stynylrez primer. How is Reaper's brush-on primer for sandability/chip resistance?

>>49883784
One spoiler was not enough to hide that abomination

>>49883934
>having spoilered images on

It's like you don't even want to see the bounteous glory that 4chan has to offer.

>>49883934
I warned you.

>>49883978
To be fair he is spot on with it being an absolute abomination. It doesn't help Moot Green is a bit too bright on the warpstone glow, to the point I think I may just give the whole thing a biel tan wash to tone down the contrast.

But again, experience with painting is pretty sub par, so I'm looking for any advice I can get.

>>49883784
Your brother can't take a joke.

Anyway, read up on IG painting tutorials for all your camo scheme needs.
Personally I'd recommend using maybe three or four different variants with harmonizing colors and use matching leather stripes or armor plates to tie it all together.

The Blood axes in the Armageddon codex had a variety of urban and desert camo patterns, i.e. mainly khaki and light grey and red leather straps.

File: IMG_20160311_214504344.jpg (2MB, 5344x3006px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 5344x3006px

>>49882705
fixing mistakes, not so much.

Washes and dry brushing on the other hand is the quick and easy way to get a lot of things done.
Washes can still be a good idea even when i'm going for higher quality, but then it's stuff like wash, base again, highlight, detail highlight. or wash painting for when I feel like giving myself a heart attack (did that for 3 of pic attached).

Wet into wet painting is something I'm learning to do better on minies, but it's a fabric technique and I just don't see it coming up too much the lizardmen army I'm strarting on now.

File: IG-88 with Droids.jpg (136KB, 1000x608px) Image search: [Google]

136KB, 1000x608px

>>49883284
Hey, you're the first other person I've seen post Imperial Assault here. Are you using the Sorastro tutorials? I don't know what it is, but your figures just look a bit off, for some reason.

File: OfficersGroup.jpg (87KB, 1000x250px) Image search: [Google]

87KB, 1000x250px

>>49884040

>>49884018
He was fine with it after a bit, he sort of just shut out the stupidity of it all.

Thanks for the information on the IG tutorials. I think I'll use four colors for a few and see how they work out, and may let an ork or 10 have camo that actually fits together.

I may check out a few camo patterns for Urban patterns, tried a two color scheme using Ushabti bone and Gothor brown and it came out decent. As for Urban, I think I'm going to find combinations that aren't digital, I've done two orks with it and it is a bit too much for me.

Thanks again for the advice man.

>>49884040
I am insofar as I have the paints. Your minis look great.

>>49884105
>I think I'm going to find combinations that aren't digital
painting digital in this scale is something I'd only consider - maybe - for a display piece you want to wind a slayer sword with.

Just use tiger stripes, triangles, polygons or dots. These are easy enough to do and if you mix up the colors you get even more mileage out of a pretty easy technique.

Am I supposed to buy Windsor and Newton, Series 7 for miniature painting? I heard they are the best in business, but all I can find are "watercolour" brushes from this series.

Are the citadel brushes overpriced? I am currently using a medium base brush and a small layer brush (each of which I got for $7 Canadian) and I find the eyes to be very difficult to do on my marines.

>>49884241
>Am I supposed to buy Windsor and Newton, Series 7 for miniature painting?
You can buy cheap synthetics too if you like. Matter of fact if you are a noob and don't know how to maintain a brush, buying the most expensive one you can find and ruining it in a few sessions is a waste of money.

>I heard they are the best in business, but all I can find are "watercolour" brushes from this series.
I use aquarell brushes. Should be fine.

>Are the citadel brushes overpriced? I am currently using a medium base brush and a small layer brush (each of which I got for $7 Canadian) and I find the eyes to be very difficult to do on my marines.
GW stuff in general is more expensive than it has to be. Brushes are no exception. Last time I bought one from GW was probably ten years ago so I can't comment on the current product line.
Thing is if you have a good brush it will have a fine point and keep it. You can paint the tiniest detail with the same brush you use to basecoat if it has a good tip. It might actually be better to use a bigger brush since they have a bigger reservoir resulting in an even flow if you paint something bigger, say a freehand painting.

But for a beginner a small brush is definitely a sound investment. Sometimes you need to get into hard to reach places that are impossible to get at with a bigger brush too.
Once you improve your brush control you won't need it to paint the detail anymore though.

Depending on your scheme and painting style you may be able to just paint the eyes first and paint the armor around it later. Painting from the 'inside out' is always a good idea, but never something the GW tutorials mention. They always tell you to do the hard to reach fiddly stuff last.

>>49884241
desu I've gotten better results from $2-3 spotter brushes from Michaels. Its also not as bad as ruining an $8 and $20 brush.

>>49884324
Thanks. So far I've been using the medium and small brushes for about 10 space marines and everything is in roughly the same shape that it was when I bought it. I swirl the brush until it has all the paint out, and then test it on a blank sheet of paper to see if it leaves any colour. If it does, then it means I didn't get all the paint out so I swirl it some more.

So far, it has worked well for keeping the brushes well.

>>49884337
I just looked those up. Can you tell me which brushes you bought in particular? Do you remember their names?

>>49880109
I want to taste both now

>>49884396
>So far, it has worked well for keeping the brushes well.
Yeah as a rule of thumb if you don't get any paint into the ferrule you are good. Paint that dries up in there will splay the bristles, ruining your tip.

I'd also use different brushes for metallics, washes and inks. These take quite a toll on a brush and the washes and inks like to seep up into the ferrule due to capillary action.

>>49884396
I use a 10/0 and 18/0 spotter brush for stuff like small details and faces. Those should be enough for you and should cost around like $8 total. They don't really have brands, just 3 different categories. I'd just stick with the cheaper ones.

So is it better to paint the heads first then stick them on?

>>49884742
its easier

>>49884757
Do you leave them on the sprue or pin them?

>>49884779
I usually paint on the sprue, but I think pinnings easier cause you dont have to clean up the sprue clip.

>>49884819
Anyone know what kind of wire is best for pinning human heads then? Thickness and strength?

File: tmp_4781-20161021_003349367294679.jpg (5MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

5MB, 4032x3024px

So this has been my WIP for the last few days. Arranging and rearranging shelves.
Hopefully I got the spacing right.
I figure with all my ugly unpainted models on display, and having to look at them everyday, I'll have more motivation to get them done.

As a side note, I left 9.5 in of space on the empty shelf. I'm wanting to do aInperial Knights army. Anyone have a knight they can measure for me with the missiles or Icarus cannons on top? I've tired to Google the answer with no avail.

>>49885119
I've found sewing pins to be ideal for most pinning - thin and strong

>>49885237
How do you go about cutting them? Also are they expensive?

>>49882076
You should probably add arms

>>49880396
I'd still say pick out the fleshy bits on the gun barrel in a purple/pinky colour, then use either Blood For The Blood God or Reikland Fleshshade Gloss to make it look like exposed internals. At the moment it's exactly the same as the rest of the gun. Also, highlighting the edges of the chitin carapace or even adding a pattern to it. Tyranids can look great if you take inspiration from insects or reptiles for their carapaces.

>>49885262
Not terribly expensive, and I wouldn't cut them.

>>49885262
Any good quality clippers or pliers

>>49885262
ratty old wirecutters or cheap ones from home depot, definitely don't use anything meant for plastic

>>49885453
>>49885508
Guess I'm going shopping after work then. Cheers.

>>49885275
Well no shit.

Anyone got any tips on water basing? I bought some second hand crisis suits that had really fucked up feet and I think I'm gonna have their legs submerged. Thoughts?

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>49877309
Here is another one of my models.

"Holy Sigmat! Bless this ravaged body!"

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>49885800
"For the Warhammer!"

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>49885811
"

>>49882076
>Lakar
I think Abaddon would be better

>>49877636
What paints did you use for your Dreadnought?

I was thinking of doing the Furioso or trying the Librarian but seeing that has me thinking otherwise.

File: red paladin.jpg (255KB, 1136x1032px) Image search: [Google]

255KB, 1136x1032px

Stuck on what color i want the hammer in, either plain metal or try my hand with OSL for the first time, and make it a nonphysical holy hammer of sorts.
Also, some c&c wanted, i got shany hands and poor eyesight, so i have a hard time seeing the mistakes.

>>49883659
like >>49883826 said, sealing the models should solve the problem quite handily.
The gaming lines are more resistant on their own, but once sealed that is no longer an issue, and you'll want to seal most of the models regardless.

The question then becomes which line matches your desired ranges the best. Game Color is bold, but lacks a lot of the realistic colours that Model Color has, Reaper probably has everything (it is a really large range) but may be harder to match to your existing colours.

>>49880991

I guess there goes the resale value on the ones ive had since the 90s

>>49883709
I think you're right. I did pick out some of those details, but they don't really pop. Thanks!

>>49881020
Be happy you have your carapace mounted weapons..

When i left the army and moved home, they were the only things I lost :|

>>49885999
That better not be a C+A+D reference in that fucking book.

>>49886322
It's the book of meme magic.
Paladin of kek :^)

Tomorrow Leman Russ - Primarch of the Space Wolves, The Wolf King, The Lord of Winter and Ruin - will arrive and lead his forces to face the Thousand Sons on Prospero... and Prospero will burn!

Make sure you come back to forgeworld.co.uk tomorrow, Saturday 22nd October, at 10.30am.

does anyone know if this is the model or if it's just the launch of that shitty book thing

>>49886430
It'll be the model, given that he was already for sale at the last open day.

>>49886666
satanic quads. noice.

File: 20161021_141119.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

My WIP palatine blades


As always criticism is welcone

File: EC_Palatine_Blades_Mk_IV.jpg (237KB, 400x594px) Image search: [Google]

237KB, 400x594px

>>49886846
what shall i do with the shoulder pads ? white or silver like in the Crusade army list

File: 20161021_141746.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

Other side

>>49886863
silver will probably be more coherent

save the white for characters so they stand out

What should I use to seal off models to keep the paint from scratching off with time?

>>49882725
Anyone know anything, please?

>>49887232

The safest bet is to seal your models first with a gloss varnish, then follow that up with a matte varnish to remove the shine (unless of course you want to leave something gloss, in which case cover up that bit or just hit it again with the first varnish).

You can usually get away with just a coat of matte varnish on plastic models, since paint tends to adhere must more firmly to that, but for metal models gloss + matte is nonnegotiable.

>>49882076
include a church

>>49887301
Where's the best place to get church from? I want to put some church on my armoured sentinel.

>>49885999
What range is this mini from?

File: IMG_20161021_093758.jpg (1MB, 1500x1125px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1500x1125px

WIP for Spidicules

File: 3675BAE2-F735-45D8-A536-35260A713F2E_zps2ynabjou.jpg (222KB, 1024x734px) Image search: [Google]

222KB, 1024x734px

reposting for thoughts on my neophytes so far (fell asleep after posting and lost the thread >.< )

Anything I should/can add to the bases? Aiming for a moon-type base

I'm looking for miniature musical instruments as guitars, bass and microphone.

I wish to turn my Exorcist into little mobile concert machine of doom.

>>49887646
quickest way would be to scratchbuild them.

>>49886846
Are those recasts? If not your paints might be a tad thick.
Also it's probably a bit late for that but is that a huge moldline on the left guy's left leg?

File: chaos_slaanesh_monsters_of_rock10.jpg (98KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

98KB, 800x600px

>>49887646
>I wish to turn my Exorcist into little mobile concert machine of doom.

That could totally work.

File: sanctum_imperialis_large.jpg (1MB, 3010x1338px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3010x1338px

>>49887409
>Where's the best place to get church from?

If you buy the Renegade game, you get two Knights, and, although there is only one upgrade sprue to share between them, each could have a carapace mounted weapon. The set also comes with a Sanctum Imperialis; I'm pretty sure that's what KnightChurchAnon used to make the crumbling church ruins on the base of his Knight.

>>49887646
Spellcrow has some Bass Guitars.

>>49887770
Gotta say, the inner sides of the imperial buildings look a hell of a lot better than the outside.

Might have to buy a sprue or two and see if I can make a building not covered in gaudy shit.

File: 20160327_113404.jpg (2MB, 4160x2340px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4160x2340px

My theme is more of an elite strike force one. I went for dark colors for that reason. Does it look like shit? How can i make it not look like shit

File: image.jpg (927KB, 2048x2048px) Image search: [Google]

927KB, 2048x2048px

>>49887880
>>49887735
Spellcrow has what I need. All though something less chaos would be better

Also terrain wise I'm looking to add more fantasy terrain like mine (picture related)
They are made of plaster so now they are starting to crumble.
Little more 40k like but still fantasy would be awesome

File: 1467523671915.png (81KB, 618x844px) Image search: [Google]

81KB, 618x844px

>>49888087
Are you serious? They look awful.
Like, beyond bad.

Thin your paint, do multiple layers.
Then add a wash.
Then raise the colour again with a layer avoiding recesses.

That is the most basic way to do stuff.

Black is hard. Don't do black.
It requires highlight which I think you are not ready for.

Do dark grey if you really must.

File: navycamo.jpg (120KB, 1000x865px) Image search: [Google]

120KB, 1000x865px

>>49888087
First, strip. Next, thin your goddamn paints.
When you're ready to start again, use a cold, bluish-gray to highlight the black, or alternatively, paint the armor silver and layer it up with black inkwash until it looks sufficiently dark. As a former Templars player, flat black without at least token highlighting will always look unfinished.
Wash the cloth with a blue ink until it gets a nice navy color. Alternatively, try a blue/gray camo

>>49888087
Scheme's fine, but it looks like you're new to painting.

Could be better, could be worse. Just keep at it and you'll improve. Work on getting solid colours and staying within the lines for now.

>>49886150
As long as you sell them below retail youll be fine, theyve always been up for sale on the GW store

>>49888653
The Vostroyans have, but not the Valhallans.

>>49887592
how come everyone and their mother is doing this cult color-scheme? feels like it's the only one you really see.

>>49888824
Its like the "normal" color scheme

File: 1.jpg (473KB, 2592x1456px) Image search: [Google]

473KB, 2592x1456px

My world eaters under way. Should i paint cloaks red on praetor abd chaplain?

>>49888904
Is that a serious question?

>>49888904
Shitty picture. The white looks way too thick.

>>49887869
Neato

File: 20161021_180344.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

Liking my progress so far. Slipped off on some of the silber parts and will have to fix those small splatters later, but I like the look of things. Really happy with how the crozius turned out.

>>49888841
I thought the cult of the four-armed emperor was the "main" one?

>>49889011
That's cause it's a shitty picture. On one claw I can see that I need one or two layers of white more perhaps.

Hey /wip/, is there a way to get a good chrome or mirror finish on a model without needing anything too expensive or hard-to-find? Or is my best bet just silver with heavy gloss varnish?

>>49889813
>Hey /wip/, is there a way to get a good chrome or mirror finish on a model
Yes.
>without needing anything too expensive or hard-to-find?
No.

You can get mirror foil, which is a pretty specialized item and kind of hard to use on anything that isn't a flat surface from what I understand.

The next best thing and probably easier to find and use would be the rub and buff kind of metal paints. They tend to be a bit more shiny.

>>49878646
Something that I didn't see anyone else mention is that the Grey Hunter/Blood Claw box comes with enough bitz to make a 10-man squad AND customize vanilla Marine kits, so don't feel like you need to buy the Upgrade Pack when getting vehicles and tanks. (Extra bitz never hurt tho if you can afford it!)

File: 1477069792008-548596808.jpg (4MB, 5376x3024px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5376x3024px

Any ideas on how to highlight the metal on my warp lightning cannon and dreadspear armor? I really want to give this thing my all. I used warlock bronze for the big parts, and mixed it with a generic gold color for the details.

File: 1477069940753-1903310423.jpg (4MB, 5376x3024px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5376x3024px

>>49890137
Related, my unfinished dreadspear

>>49887473
Legends of signum

>>49888824
Nit that guy, but before I even knew that this scheme was an official GW scheme, I had orange and cream in mind.

It's because that color scheme is the same scheme as 80s space suits. It gives off a very 80s grunge sci-fi feel to your minis, which is practically the entire point of the GSC range.

>>49890137
Liberator Gold, Fulgurite Copper, or Skullcrusher Brass are all good options for highlighting bronze. I'd also recommend dabbing on some Nihilakh Oxide in the recesses just to add that extra kick.

>>49890353
On a related note, GW just reworked their paint store so you just get a picture of each paint pot, rather than a palette for each range.
It SUCKS. I can't tell SHIT about the fucking paint I'm looking at, and it's so fucking disorganized!

File: citadel_painting_system.jpg (3MB, 1920x6224px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 1920x6224px

>>49890424

Not trying to be an apologist, but does this help?

File: 1469911244216.pdf (1B, 486x500px)

1B, 486x500px

>>49890492
>posting the old one

>>49890492
I mean it helps just for having the swatches, but I already know how to put palettes together, I just liked having the old "here's all the layer paints" "here's all the shades" for when I'm browsing the Citadel store.

File: sob.gif (390KB, 477x680px) Image search: [Google]

390KB, 477x680px

Anyone got that strip with tips how to make photos with miniatures better? The one with "turn off flash, put it down" etc?

File: 1446885061361.png (617KB, 600x2058px) Image search: [Google]

617KB, 600x2058px

>>49890619

>>49890424
I just looked, and yes this rework is annoying as hell. The overview screen was much more pleasant to work from.

>>49890664
The tedium of having to post this every thread is massively offset by how fucking useful it is. As long as people post shitty pictures on WIP this will always be a godsend.

File: 1.jpg (319KB, 1080x608px) Image search: [Google]

319KB, 1080x608px

>>49890664
Yesss

>>49890703
How about swapping OP picture with it?

Less funny, but less potato tier pics in thread.

>>49890714
Damn, nice. Those terminator legs give them a really great sense of bulk

>>49890156
What blue is that?

File: 1476973928623.gif (73KB, 525x740px) Image search: [Google]

73KB, 525x740px

>>49890785
every now and then it shows up in the OP

Shitty pictures will never go away, though. It's just something you gotta accept.

>>49888777
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/Valhallan-Squad

>>49882461
this looks insane

>>49890714
Looks fuckin' tippy-top-tippers, anon. Especially the eyes. You did a good job of making them look messy but not cluttered, as well as making good use of the classic Nurgle scheme.

Before I start painting my Khornates I had a few questions.

>How do I go about applying a very light coat of oxide to small features, like armor trim. I want the brass to have a light all-over recess verdigris but I don't want it to be overpowering.

>How to get that "smear" effect you see on warpaint. Where the edges are tattered in that streaky way.

Also a more finnicky design question, but I just wanted people's thoughts: there are two parts on the models that look like leather, the straps and stuff, and then the boots and gloves. I want to paint one set flayed-skin tone and the other black, because black leather's metal as fuck. But which should be which color?

Oh! Also what should I paint the cloth parts that aren't cloaks and stuff? Like pants? Just beige? Grey-ish?

File: IMG_20161010_220141982.jpg (751KB, 1632x918px) Image search: [Google]

751KB, 1632x918px

>>49890714
>>49890790
>>49891316
Not the same guy but glad top anon saved my pic of my art scale deathguard, those are about 3 years old now, my latest chosen i hope shows how I've improved.

>>49887525
Fuck I am not looking forward to painting this without an airbrush

>>49890923
I like the conversion overall but the spear shaft looks too bulky and plain and the paint could use work

>>49892173
break it down into sub-assemblies and take it one piece at a time.
An airbrush will be quicker, but it should be doable by hand.

File: latest-1.jpg (43KB, 900x546px) Image search: [Google]

43KB, 900x546px

Holy shit skitarii have a lot of fiddly little bits to paint! Would it be smart to assemble and prime the model then remove the arms, or just do them entirely seperate until the end?

>>49892510
If you're going to do all the other painting work with them separate, then I see no reason to otherwise for priming.

File: swiggityswooty.jpg (492KB, 1200x523px) Image search: [Google]

492KB, 1200x523px

>>49892173
Basically this>>49892494. But goddamn, the airbrush just speeds things up so much.

File: ted-beargeon-chaos-zealot-armor-t5.jpg (343KB, 1844x1920px) Image search: [Google]

343KB, 1844x1920px

What colour should I use for a Raven Host-colour scheme from the Warhammer Fantasy MMO?

>>49890880
That shits always been out of stock.

>>49885624
Bumping for answer

>>49892865
I just bought them though, they went oos now

>>49890923
very slannesh. BTW, has anyone noticed my namefaging?

>>49892844
blue, turquoise, and purple

>>49892566
Mostly just worried about them getting stuck to something while the prime dries.

I'm having a weird problem with my black primer. When I spray it on the model it doesn't seem to stick properly and the models' raised areas aren't coated when it dries.
It's cool weather right now because it just finished raining, is that the problem because it's the only thing I can think of that would cause a problem like this.

>>49893232
sounds like you didn't shake the can enough to me.

>>49893232
very high humidity messes with primer like nobodies business, the cooler temps are nice, but all that water in the air sure doesn't.

>>49893253
I shook it by hand and with a reciprocating saw, but also some of the models were partially primed black already and that primer wore off along with the new coat also.

>>49893232
Make sure the model is clean - sometimes there is mold release agent or oil from hands which can prevent it from sticking. Also give your primer a really good shake.

---

I have some sculpted bases. Should I do them separate and attach after painting, or attach the model to them beforehand? I've seen arguments for both ways

>>49892494
If I do that nothing's going to match, I tend to paint the whole model all at once with multiple layers and lots of paint mixing.

File: 1477083393849.jpg (184KB, 950x712px) Image search: [Google]

184KB, 950x712px

What do you guys think of my plague marines + rhino?
I still haven't figured out a good name for them yet. Any suggestion on names for a small band of plague marine mercenaries?

Noob question. If painting parts separately are the areas to be joined with glue left unpainted?

>>49893365
it looks like shit!

learn to sculpt nurgle properly, then come back to me!

>>49893365
The painting looks ok but the conversions are godawful.

>>49893331
if you mix and blend a lot that's going to be a problem, yeah... Then you're out of luck I'm afraid.
You might still want to break the model down though, those legs are reasonably sturdy, but far from unbreakable.

I'm thinking of magnetizing my space marines, so what pin vice should I get and where are they sold?

Which magnets should I use?

>>49893420
Just look on Amazon for a pin vise or dremel and a pack of 1mm or 2mm magnets

>>49893420
Depends on what parts you're magnetizing, but listening to >>49893464 is a good start.

>>49893482
Was just looking to magnetize the arms, the hands and the combi-guns

Maybe the waists and heads if its possible

>tfw you accidently buy gloss nuln oil

I guess my scouts are going to be shiny. I've got a matte varnish so I'll see how that cuts the sheen

>>49893277
>I have some sculpted bases. Should I do them separate and attach after painting, or attach the model to them beforehand? I've seen arguments for both ways
Depends on your model and what you are doing with the bases.
Can you even paint the bases when the mini is attached to them?
Would it speed up your progress to be able to batch paint the bases without being neater around the minis?
There is no right answer to this, it really depends on what you are working on and with what.

If you want to use pigments on the bases but don't want any of your minis that's a pretty strong argument for example.

So I'm trying to remove moldlines. I watchd the video in OP post and tried to do the scraping technique, but it doesn't really work. I'm still sorta chipping into the model. I'm doing the exact same thing he is doing, but my knife is just cutting in even with no pressure and creating these horrid ridges. Any advice?

>>49893679
Never use a fresh blade for moldline clean-up, find a slightly duller one.
Otherwise it will be doing what you're describing.

>>49893752
Would I be better getting one of those tools he was using? Do GW sell one? I think my local store only stocks GW and army painter products.

>>49893799
there are dedicated mold-line scrapers, and yes GW sells one.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Mouldline-Remover is the one you're looking for, but keep in mind that it's fairly pricey for what it does.

>>49893799
Just use the back of the blade.

>>49893679
if you aren't angling the blade in the wrong direction you are probably using too steep and angle.

>>49893847
>>49893865
Thanks for the advice but I think
>>49893862
Has hit the nail on the head. Using the back of the knife is really doing the job. Cheers.

File: 455188_md-Doom, Doomwheel, Skaven, Wheel.jpg (31KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

31KB, 640x480px

>>49890137
For bronze I would mix your warplock bronze with the darkest brown you have and put dabs all over the place. Then take a runefang steel and lightly brush over the areas you just painted. Then wash all the recesses with an incubi darkness or similar blue green paint watered down to a wash consistency.

For gold, just ad runfang steel in with the gold and do a dry brush over the gold. Then do an even lighter dry brush of just runfang steel.

File: 2016-10-21 23.02.08.jpg (232KB, 816x612px) Image search: [Google]

232KB, 816x612px

Getting close to finishing all the Gorechosen models, looking forward to playing it now

File: CvUthLzXEAALQM9.jpg (379KB, 2048x1153px) Image search: [Google]

379KB, 2048x1153px

Dreadknight conversion WIP

>>49882461
Is this photoshopped?

File: 182499-Nard Tyranids, Nards Tyranids, Nardstyranids, Tyranids.jpg (424KB, 2044x1382px) Image search: [Google]

424KB, 2044x1382px

>>49894472
Nope, just one guy's interesting painting scheme for his tyranid army. Look up Nard's Nids, he did a huge force like that.

>>49894304
Solid work! Very stark and dark, I like it.

>>49894432
So many great posts at once? We're too lucky!

>>49894522
Thanks doc.

>>49882461
How would I get that cartoon effect on guardsmen?

>>49895191

Look at borderlands and try to copy where the outlines are

>>49895191
Bright, saturated colors with smooth gradients + very dark, prominent, thin darklining across the entire model.

File: Charge to battle, my brothers!.gif (4MB, 400x304px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 400x304px

>>49894432
>those bases

File: 20161021_165347.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 5312x2988px

>tfw you havent a game played in a year
>always working weekends
>no one wants to play on fridays

So lonely in these rattly bones

File: 20161021_165347~01.jpg (599KB, 1440x2560px) Image search: [Google]

599KB, 1440x2560px

>>49895508
Fffffffuck

>>49895526
Can we get some more pics of the dog?

>WarSeer might be coming back
>all those glorious project logs aren't going to be lost to the warp

>>49895508
>working weekends

Have you considered giving up on life? You're already halfway there

File: 14716338_1706477329672899_6405589305832220852_n.jpg (47KB, 480x480px) Image search: [Google]

47KB, 480x480px

Time to get good old Johnny back in production?

>>49895786
If we scream loud enough we can probably get a response at least

>>49891548
How do you do artscale?

File: 6f6e127f8fa49567049c7f098c0a2fd4_644.jpg__thumb.jpg (41KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]

41KB, 600x450px

>>49895786
Wonder if they could recast this motherfucker
(Paint job isn't mine)

File: [muffled cyka blyat in the distance].jpg (174KB, 518x518px) Image search: [Google]

174KB, 518x518px

Working on a valhallan
These models are great

>>49895786
How can the made to order stuff be sold out? Isn't the point to get the orders in and then fill the demand?

What the hell are they doing? If they just do a limited run of the minis and then do something else the next week it's not made to order, is it.

>>49895955
Well they rather know what people want so they'll get more money.
Gw knew people jerk off over kaskrins and some of the ig characters so they added them with some bonuses

>>49895955
supposedly the way the service works is they take orders for 48 hours on a set of models, then make that many and ship them out. so technically made to order.

Not quite what people were expecting at all.

>>49896015
>supposedly the way the service works is they take orders for 48 hours on a set of models
Wow. Okay that's an information I didn't have and didn't see mentioned anywhere.

Still, a 48h window? I hope they make these a regular thing now and not a one off deal. Otherwise it seems kinda pointless.

>>49895786
Is this real? Fuck I'm not even sure what I'd want from either line but I'm happy they're doing it.

>>49895786
It seems you have to comment in their fb page...
Shame.

>>49895786
Did they put any current failcast stuff in made to order batch of ig? Because I'd probably just want metal versions of chaos hqs available.

>>49895921
Liking the scheme

>>49877636
Threre is a tiny hair underneath the dradnaught's foot. For this I will rank it 1 out of 10. Seriously though they are amazing, great work!

File: 20161022_121420.jpg (640KB, 1075x1195px) Image search: [Google]

640KB, 1075x1195px

Tacked together at the moment, would it look better with or without a cloak?

>>49896596
With.

>>49895662
Where did everyone go from warseer? I'm more Into fantasy/AoS and I can barely find any Project logs anywhere now.

>>49896596
Cape that motherfucker up, son

Looking at FW upgrade stuff to make my army more detailed, but it's all resin, will plastic and resin together look really fucked up after painting?

Also, wanted to go for a dark red for Salamanders scale decorations, would mixing Mephiston Red and Agrax Earthshade result in a decently thin, dark red?

>>49895662
>WarSeer might be coming back
it died?

>>49896891
>FW upgrade stuff
if it's an upgrade kit it's literally made to go with the plastic kits.

>>49896891
I've used resin bits on my plastics before. It shouldn't be a major problem. And like >>49896940 said, a lot of FW's newer upgrade kits were made specifically for the plastic mkIV set

File: Ravenwing.png (369KB, 592x690px) Image search: [Google]

369KB, 592x690px

I have recently started to paint a ravenwing force. What can I do better. Also, how do I into OSL.

>>49896891
Use Khorne red and just thin it and layer with as much shade as you need. Mixing paints and shades is a technical thing, and a waste of materials where regular thinning will do fine.

File: 20161021_223935_crop_518x648.jpg (259KB, 518x648px) Image search: [Google]

259KB, 518x648px

First time doing robes. How's it look?

File: 20161021_224122_crop_518x646.jpg (274KB, 518x646px) Image search: [Google]

274KB, 518x646px

Is over thinning a thing as I think I might have done that.

>>49897496
Looking good. You could actually thin more.

>>49893365
Nice.

You should have stayed with the green pus ball.

Call them the Deadbeats

File: imperialassault heroes.jpg (225KB, 1306x735px) Image search: [Google]

225KB, 1306x735px

6 core game heroes done but for basing.

File: atst.jpg (120KB, 569x836px) Image search: [Google]

120KB, 569x836px

>>49897566

File: ATTE4.jpg (682KB, 2048x1536px) Image search: [Google]

682KB, 2048x1536px

>>49897566
>>49898051

Are these from the Hasbro Star Wars Miniatures game, that you repainted?

>>49898070
https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/star-wars-imperial-assault/

Actually pretty good. Ruleset is roughly the same as Descent if you've played that.

Do you need plastic glue for GW minis or is a super glue fine too

>>49898208
Super is fine, but the plasticene glue sort of "melts" the plastic creating a tighter bond

>>49898208
Super glue is fine, but I find it a lot easier to use their plastic glue.

>>49898208
Plastic glue is recommeded for plastic minis since it makes a tighter bond that can't be broken by low temperatures and doesn't instantly react with your skin

File: Mirklace - WIP001.jpg (277KB, 559x700px) Image search: [Google]

277KB, 559x700px

Continuing the work in progress on my Descent order.

>>49898595
Nice. Got any more Descent stuff?

File: Zombies2.jpg (308KB, 849x600px) Image search: [Google]

308KB, 849x600px

>>49898740

File: 010_Primed.jpg (765KB, 3109x1000px) Image search: [Google]

765KB, 3109x1000px

>>49899068
>>49898740

File: Troll1.jpg (386KB, 1216x700px) Image search: [Google]

386KB, 1216x700px

>>49899079
>>49899068

>>49895955
Can't believe I missed out on fucking Kasrkin just because I found out a day too late

my black paint and steel wire have gone missing. Where could they be?

I guess I could pin with copper wire...

File: first word.jpg (198KB, 1207x1224px) Image search: [Google]

198KB, 1207x1224px

Had some bits laying around so made a word bearer for fun. First time trying out the scheme and pretty happy so far. Base is still drastically in need of work

>>49897126
Just don't bother with the osr. It looks good otherwise, but you've made the area around the light source darker than the unlit areas, particularly on the red. Also the light source needs to be much lighter, it should be close to white.

>>49885234
Yo, if you're still around: where'd you get those shelves? I've been looking for a good display cabinet and found nothing locally.

>>49890714
I have always liked these, anon. Great work.

>>49894432
I love it! Way better than the baby harness. However, as >>49895393 pointed out the bases are kind of silly.

>>49895526
>>49895610
I'm with this guy, dog is qt af

File: IMG_4035.jpg (629KB, 2465x1674px) Image search: [Google]

629KB, 2465x1674px

Currently working on my first Dreadnought.

Need to do a lot of cleanup on the claws and the internal of the wrists. Everything is currently just dry-fitted aside from 2-part pieces like the arms, legs, and the claws.

Planning on magnetising the majority of the armor so I can swap it out if I want to do a Librarian or Furioso. How the fuck do I put the extra armor on? I can't seem to find the sweet-spot of where the plates should sit. First need to get a drill-set and the magnets. Also fucked up when I first tried fitting the leg plate and tore a small part of the pegs. Has me thinking of trying to magnetise those as well

hey err.....

Anyone know where to get recasts now.....?