/wipg/ WIP Painting, Conversion, Sculpting, Duncan General

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How good are these things? Is it necessary to have the hose actually vent outside? They seem to have been designed for vertical windows, and of course my windows open horizontally...

>>49835171
>Is it necessary to have the hose actually vent outside?
Unless there is some reason you want to hang onto the overspray yes.
>They seem to have been designed for vertical windows, and of course my windows open horizontally...
I'm pretty sure you are able to turn the tube at the back 90 degrees either way.

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I'm making a Daemons of Tzeentch army and I need some assistance with schemes/conversion.
I'd really like to make them super bright and colorful, kind of like pic related (google Louise Sugden Art for more). I don't think I'll make mine quite as busy, but I do like the vibrancy. Best ways to go about that?

I'm also converting some Imperial Knights as an allied renegade detachment and I'm gonna sculpt lots of eyes and feathers to go on their armor panels. I have a problem though: I have no idea how to sculpt eyes, and need some good tutorials for that.

Halp me, /tg/

>>49835213
>I'm pretty sure you are able to turn the tube at the back 90 degrees either way.
won't it just fall out of the window this way?

tfw duncan almost has the 'fuck my shit up' hair

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So today I took isopropyl alcohol to the shoulder of all my melted-I mean, painted high ranking autisic officers. I tried my best. Adding orange really spiced up the blob visually on the table. Recently repainted the bases as the glue was yellowing after years of neglect. I threw a wash on them too, will go back and do a lighter blue/highlights later. But yeah, looks like a 4 year old did it, but it was kinda fun doing detail work like that.

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What kind of lamps and fixtures should I buy for optimal painting setup? Currently I'm suffering with only a single one of pic related.

I get confused by all the watt, lumens, kelvin etc.

Hey guy who posted those awesome Screamers of Tzeentch in the last thread, if you're around please give a guide on blending/layering.

>>49835245
it's enough when the thing where the air comes out of points where you want the excess to go.
you don't have to hang the whole length of the hose out the window.

>>49835288
I got one I could change the bulb on, and it had outlets on it too (nice for when I use my dremel)

I swapped the bulb with a whitebalanced daylight bulb.

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Finally got these guys primed today. First set of doods ever, had other stuff too do so no paint.

But mainly is there anything that the great Rhodes hasn't told me I should know before I should paint?

And yeah that one guy has Saturday night fever. I fucked up bad and ended up with more than one mismatched arm set and a wrong shoulder on the beakie. I'll read the sprue numbers next time.

>>49835373
your primer went on a little thick it looks like.

I always mess up rattle can primers. It is hard.

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>>49835277
>I tried my best.

I don't want to hurt your feelings, but this looks pretty bad.

Short checklist to help you improve:
The paint coats look very uneven. If I'm seeing this correctly you painted the blue and the skin color directly on top of the black basecoat in some places and sometimes did a white undercoat.
The undercoat was a good idea, but white is next to yellow the hardest color to get even coverage on black with a single coat.
You usually need to do two or four.

It would probably help if you bought a medium brown as undercoat for the skin and a darker blue or grey or even better greyblue for the armor.

This will help the splotchy look.

Second thing is washes. I see you used a blue one and apparently thinned it with water in places and whatnot. That's fine. But you let it pool so there are these outlines marking where a drop collected. Doesn't look too pretty.
So to avoid that either apply the wash more evenly over the whole surface and use your brush to control the pool and take away the excess or only paint it into the recesses of the model.
Due to it's viscosity and surface tension it will collect where you want it.

Doing freehand painting is a good way to improve you brushcontrol, which is an essential prerequisite for a clean job. You can also train that by painting onto a piece of paper first.
Classic excercises like you'd do for traditional drawing and making even straight lines, circles or evenly spaced spirals.
You can of course also practice the thing you want to paint, in your case lettering.

Also don't be afraid to clean up if you had a little overpainting happen. In some cases I can see skin color that got onto the armor and the fatigues.
Do this after you finished everything else though if you are painting assembly line. Takes a while.

Another idea to try could be to use a really dark grey, from VMC for example, and wash it black over the fatigues. Gives them a bit of shading and is still a very doable method for horde armies.

>>49835405
Shit, shouldn't have done two coats.

Well fuck it. If I hate them I can get more or deal with it. They're pretty much a write off for me to cut my teeth with painting and modeling.

>>49835513
what I've been told works well is multiple very thin dustings

but somehow I always fuck it up and it ends up glopping or graining up

by the way, stripping paint isn't that hard. I should really make an image guide on it

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What do you guys think? I don't wanna fuck with it anymore for fear of fucking it up.

>>49835566
I tried to do thin dustings and with quick sparys, but the primer I bought sprayed small globs on a few models when I did that. Plus fucking wind kept me from being too far away.

I'll see how this turns out and I'll strip it if I don't like the results post-wash.

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>>49835510
Thank you for taking the time to reply! Yes! They look fucking god awful. I painted these, except for the guy on the nid in the back like 7 years ago. The only new thing here is the shoulder pads. But for my new guard those are all really good ideas. I will be taking the time to clean up all these old guys. And hopefully with new guys your advice will help a lot! There's a lot I need to do to improve and hopefully I'll get better with time.


Also I magnitized a Russ top part today! Still fucked up by not doing the sponsons when I was building it! Woo!

>>49835590
I know the mini is painted well.
And I like the base you made.

It's just that together they don't really work well imo.
Point of a display like this is to provide context, i.e. tell a little story about who this guy is.

Here the miniature is just standing in front a few trees.
Not emerging from the depth of the wild, or skulking around in the shadows.

If he is supposed to be threateningly towering over the cowering figure on the left I think you have a compositional problem.
She is almost falling off the edge of the display.

>>49835590

Needs a patch of flowers. You know how to do that?

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>>49835116
>you will never smoke a blunt with rob and duncan while they help you paint your mini

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First time working with greenstuff. Holy shit this is hard. Made a ear and some weld marks.
1/2

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>>49835833
2/2

>>49835230

Its busy looking because of all the highlights. Theres like 5-6 eye catching colors. If you just stick to base coats and minor highlighting you might be able to keep it less busy. Really theres only 2 colors going on there, the skin and the flames. Unless you mean the bases.

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>>49835826
A man can dream, anon.

A man can dream.

>>49835288

LED Strip attached to the back of a strip of plastic or metal bent in a half circle over your workspace.

https://www.amazon.ca/Susay-Waterproof-Light-Strip-White/dp/B005EHHLD8

>>49835745
She isn't the focal point of the display, slenderman is. That's why it's posed as such, perhaps I didn't take a picture from an appropriate angle, but he is looking directly at the rock she's hiding behind as though waiting for her to look away just long enough for him to come closer.
>>49835806
Yes though I have some debris I was thinking about putting down (crushed up dead leaves and whatnot. Think the flowers would look better?

>>49835930

Put the flowers near the girl and the dead debris near slenderman. Great work on the trees btw and your trails.

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How am I doing, /tg/?

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I know I got glue everywhere, and there's some sticky tack stuck in a small section, but I'm actually really happy to have found a way to make my eventual Lernaeans a bit more distinctive.

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>>49836022
I'm posting from my PC, why are my images flipping? Goddamnit.

And don't worry, I haven't even bothered starting on mold-lines or anything yet, I wanted to give this idea with the chain a shot so I did the bare minimum necessary to start working with it.

>>49836012

Nice smooth and consistant coat. Looking good. Are you going to go for a chipped paint effect?

>>49835976
Thank so man it's actually really easy to do if you want me to post a step by step the next time I do something like this.

>>49836022
>>49836044
where'd you get the chain?

>>49836150

Sure, a step by step will help lots of people do it.

>>49836063
Weathering kind of escapes me, sadly. It always ends up overdone, but thanks!

>>49836192
Literally asked my girlfriend if she had any cheap, fine jewellery chain. This stuff was apparently some crappy checkout aisle jewellery she wore in high school, but I only asked her to save myself a trip to a local chain crafts store (a Michael's Crafts)

Also, everyone ignore these >>49836044
>>49836022 not only did I use the wrong shoulderpad (that's a right-hand one I've got on his left shoulder), I missed a lower plate. I was just really excited to try this, so I kind of rushed it and obviously cocked up.

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Hey guys, just wanted to show this off. I made a skaven themed dark eldar haemonculus covens army that I'm taking to a tournament this weekend. I commissioned my brother (who is quite the drawfag) to illustrate a comic that tells the story of the army. I will be handing this out as a little booklet, which also acts as my army list, in the tournament. I just wanted to know what y'all thought of it.

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>>49836718

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>>49836730

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>>49836742

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>>49836751

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>>49836769

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>>49836782

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>>49836788

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>>49836805
And here's the whole shot of my army and display board.

>>49836817
Best use of Skaven in 40k I've seen yet.

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I keep getting these in my Death Company Marine packs. Wtf do I use them for?

>>49837112
you can decorate the legs or shoulders with them

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I finished converting my Jetseer to be more Dark Eldary and also female.

>>49837155
I don't see how, they are obnoxiously huge for those parts and don't seem to fit all that well.

>>49836718
Pretty fuckin' neato.

>>49837199
maybe they are like the weird swords in the 1999 khorne berserker kit that have no clear purpose

>>49836718
>>49836730
>>49836742
>>49836751
>>49836769
>>49836782
>>49836788
This is neat. Gave me nostalgia for the Fantasy comics of the 90s.

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Finished up the main colors for my cold one cav.

Claws, teeth and the highlights on the rider to go.

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So many layers later and now I'm stuck on what to use to give the canopy a mirror shine. Any suggestions?

>>49836833
>>49837299
>>49837398
Thanks guys, I am glad this is well received.

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>buy more paints

>they won't let me out

>unless you buy more paints

>please

>>49838475
Get back to teaching painting

>>49838475
THIN
YOUR
DAMN
PAINT

>>49836817
That army and comic are both fucking fantastic. Big props to you and your bro.

>>49836817
>>49836788
More close up pictures of your army? Also, fucking 10/10 for a creative your dudes army

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>>49838749
>>49838769
Thanks guys, here's pics of the units up close

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>>49838823
Haemonculus with webway portal

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>>49838831
wracks

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>>49838840
more wracks

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>>49838849
talos

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>>49838860

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>>49838870

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>>49838881

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>>49838891
Venomlord Stich, a regular haemonculus who trains the wracks

This >>49838831 is Warplord Tich

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>>49838899
The Venoms

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>>49838913

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>>49838924
Verminlord Skrax, himself.

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>>49838934
And finally the grotesques painted.

>>49835230
l2blend, buy some drying retardent and try two brush blending on single figurine

Anyone got some good ideas for a simple skaven base (non pestilens)

>>49838957
>>49838934
>>49838924
>>49838913
>>49838899
>>49838881
>>49838870
>>49838860
>>49838849
>>49838840
>>49838831
>>49838823

These are all really, really cool anon. Nice conversions, decent painting and basing and an awesome theme. Truly Your Dudes.

>>49839240
>Truly Your Dudes.
Thanks man, I really appreciate that. I try to make a unique spin on any of my projects and armies, and I think I got this to work, a way of doing skaven in 40k that fits with current lore. I also tried to not make my haemonculus too mary-sue-ish by playing everything off as his descent into madness by dark eldar standards.

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Reposting my warrior once so I can follow up with it's gun.

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>>49839335
Okay, so I've laid down the basecoat (aside from the carapace), washed it, and applied the layer. No highlights yet. I'm finding the Rakarth Flesh + Red Washed muscle/vent things stand out nicely against the arm but blend into the biogun's Bugman Flesh a little too much. Thoughts?

Do you think I should leave those nodules just yellow, or maybe paint a reptilian / cats-eye pupil onto it to give the gun eyes?

>>49838913
>brainy rats driving the venoms
That got a good chuckle out of me anon, great looking army with truly inventive conversions.

>>49839353
Eyes on nid weapons usually look good. As for the vents, maybe either a purple or a bright red, as though its exposed musculature.

Has anyone used the GW plastic bases and know how they are? I know thye are cheaper quality than the usual, but they are also much cheaper price than the usual too.

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If Chaos Goblin guy is browsing this thread, how do you do the skin on your guys?

I really like the pinkish tint to the mouth and nose.

>>49835288
I have 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00OUTGB0A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use daylight bulbs for them, but i couldn't find the correct ones on amazon. Bought them at a local store.

>>49835833
>>49835846
Looks good Anon.

Only one thing: Why is the sidegun cupola welded onto the tank when everything else is held together by bolts?

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WIP Brewmaster and his moon shinobi for Malifaux. Still much to be done (details like bottles, shoes, sandals, etc.) but quite happy with thier kimonos and barrels on whiskey golem.

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Hi wip! I think that I need help with this guy. I recently bought silver tower and started to paint the arcanites. Cool models btw. I haven't painted flesh tones since tzeentch knows how long. Is this ok or is there something I could do better?

Also if you guys have other good points I'm more than happy to hear them. Base is going to be painted with Astrogranite with some extra clutter on it.

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My Praetor and his Command squad are nearly finished, but I need to find a way to get rid of the shiny transparent glimmer around the decal on the the standard. Any tips?

>>49839632
maybe it's cause I just watched that scene today but the far right gobbo kinda reminds me of Vanilla Ice's stand

Thinking about getting an airbrush. Apart from the airbrush itself, the compressor, the tubes (which i'm guessing come with the compressor and airbrush?) and some airbrush cleaner in case it gets clogged, what else do I need?

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A guy has asked if I paint for order; he said that he needed 90 sumerian warriors painted, but I honestly have no idea how much should I charge him. A friend who paints for others has told me he charges 4€ an hour, but I don't know if that's reasonable or what.

This are minis I've painted, I have a decent level so I don't want to charge too little either.

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>>49835277

>>49840554
A set like this might be good for a starter

You might not need every single piece of it, but especially the cleaning glass is extremely handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle-Holder/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1476788892&sr=8-5&keywords=airbrush+cleaning+kit

There are a couple of different kits like this on amazon, with various pieces of stuff so pick one you like the most.

I also recommend getting some cleaning/rubbing alcohol for cleaning it because you will need alot of it and airbrush cleaner is expensive and in the end its almost the same stuff anyway.

>>49840657
Ask yourself, what would you work for 4$ per hour? I wouldn't go under 8$ per hour or charge per mini.

I did some commissions in the past (nothing professional like running a painting business, but for people who liked my stuff) and I have learned that more money motivates you more and people will think better of your work, because usually you pay more for quality.

>>49840744
aha.
How much should I charge for mini? Depending on the type of painting the guy wants, like chain painting or going mini by mini.

>>49839841
those look amazing, and i love the gradients on the wood

>>49840716
>Doesn't ship where you live
Well shit.
What the use of the cleaning glass?

>>49840764

I charged 5$ per Marine with priming, base colors, wash and 2 highlights. Took me around 4 hours for 10 marines, nothing fancy, but good looking on the tabletop.

Do you have an example of how complex the minis are?

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>>49840975
I think it's these miniatures, cuz they are the most popular sumerians in soft plastic.

To any ausfags
What size magnets do you use on space marines and related infantry?

All the tutorials I'm reading recommend 1/32" x 1/16" magnets but I can't find an Australian company that makes them that small.
Will I get away with 3mm x 1.5mm?

>>49840705
Mr eye patch mutton chops is my bearer of the flag of surrender

>>49840992
3.50$ per mini should be fine, they are not too detailed and seem rather easy to paint.

>>49840913
You "hook" your airbrush into its opening and then you spray into it with the cleaner, the water or the remaining paint-cleaner mix if you want to clean it.
So all the dirt is inside the glass and not all over your place.

>>49835171
I have one. For what it is, it's okay; I run acrylics, the motor seems to keep up. I plan on cutting my own filters when the time comes to replace the existing one. I have the version with the LEDs; worth the extra $10 to me (though if you're handy, you could probably rig some strip LEDs to the inside and maybe get a bit more light; that's what's inside the LED bars that were included).

>>49841028
Ooooh okay, thanks.

>>49840992
Are those miniatures not made with metal?

Rubber tip brushes are the shit for greenstuff, srly, best shit ever.

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>>49841166
>Rubber tipped brushes
Clay shapers, troglodyte.

>>49840106
Give the decal & surrounding area a wash or 2 of plain Lahmian Medium (or any non-citadel equivalent). Then maybe some matte varnish?

>>49841229
Even with water or even oil greenstuff sticks to them too much, I only use them for rough shapes, they use the rubber tipped brushes for finer details

>>49841243
The silvering is due to bad decal adhesion. Some decal solvent would be safer

>>49841243
It's already matte varnished, on the small decals this works great and I never had a problem with it, but this large one is giving me a headache.

>wanting to build a little daemonette killteam
>all the fucking moldlines

I have never seen a GW kit with worse moldlines than that. They go everywhere and are thick as fuck.

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have a game of killteam on the weekend.
i cant take photos properly with my roomlight though but here it is.

No cheating, no cleaning.

Take a picture of your current WiP or paint station if you aren't working on anything.

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>>49811801
Well I took the advice to heart and fiddled around with the light placement and the box itself as well as the camera. Might do some more in old photoshop to get the colours right as they're missing a little yellow but otherwise better I'd say.

In the future I'll probably invest in making a proper box with two light sources rather than the simple "box with insides lined with white paper" and a single florescent light bulb I have atm. Maybe that'll be the next project...

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>>49841867

Still a shit-tier painter but I am powering through B@C.

Traded the termis for a Ven Dread, still trying to get rid of the Contemptor and Cata Cap.

Still need to hunt down a ton of transports for my new troops.

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>>49842010
>Ven Dread
Still have a shitty camera too.

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>>49835826
>>49835893

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>>49841867
Finishing up my homework for tomorrow so I can paint the whole day.

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>>49841867
Waiting on new cutting mat

>>49837163
that shoulder really has to be fixed

>>49839690
Good point. Added hastily on a defunct forge world that is under siege. Lets go with that.

>>49838913
>>49838924
Very unique army. I especially like the jetbikes.

>>49837717
Did you listen to the advice given regarding the millenium falcon? Thin layers until the color is smooth and consistent. Silver colors look better if you paint them over a black undercoat. Same goes for gold, but with brown undercoats. Stick to painting the washes into the recesses and avoid large panels.
And for the love of god take your time when painting. A rushed paint job won't look good unless you have years of experience.
And don't take the criticism too hard. You are doing stuff, which is great. We just want you to be able to do it better.

>>49839841
What's up with that splatter? Is it supposed to look like the night sky, or is it spilled moonshine? Moonshine doesn't foam to make white spots, and clothing patterns are not really supposed to go onto the legs and/or bottles.
I like where it's going, but what's up with that?

>>49841813
if you are going to a store, you cannot use those grots. you will be b8.

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>>49841870
And this is damn close to how they look IRL so I'll leave it at that. The Guard are all done, now onto the Tau!

>>49841806
The whole slaanesh range is pretty bad, but seeker chariots are by far the worst.

>>49841229
Autism

>>49842164
Freshman business classes

Oh god I remember those days. Homework was so easy, and unlike a job you weren't tired after it. Now in law school I have to force myself to have fun painting, but not TOO much. Progress is always slow.

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Trying to make my Slaanesh Daemon Prince look like his skin and armor is made out of solid gold. Current basecoat is a mix of flat brown and gold.
Tips on how to proceed? Think I need another layer with more gold than brown, or is it just a matter of drybrushing 5 times over now?

Anyone have a good idea on what to use as the basis for a Plasma Destroyer conversion besides a Leman Russ Executioner gun?

>>49835277
Yeah, you really need to slow down and do thin coats to avoid that splotchy look. I'm not even that great of a painter, but you should give those a simple green bath and try again. Have you read/watched any tutorials? Those help a lot.

>>49835513
Black gesso works really well. You can get it at any art store or online. You have to brush it on, but you'll get a nice even matte surface to paint on. There's no need to thin either because it shrinks to the model when it dries.

>>49839387
Nobody has actually tried the sector imperialis or shattered dominion bases?

>>49843053
I'm sure some people have, but for me and I suspect many others, they're too expensive and I enjoy doing my own bases the way I like them.

>>49842342
Those are venoms

About to start painting over 2400 points of seraphon. I originally planned to just do the blue/teal default pattern, but I found a really cool black/red pattern too.

I'm so conflicted. What do you guys think looks better?

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WIP of a venom im having fun with before going back to the grind of 8k points of grey knights.

>>49839690
Battlefield repairs.

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>>49842851
>drybrushing
>on skin

>>49843295
Painting. If you can't blend you should drybrush skin. Highlighting creates a stark contrast and a hard surface, which skin doesn't have.

No work tomorrow, no classes tomorrow, and I got 4 tabs of acid. Time to start prepping models now because I sure as hell wont be up for assembling malifaux shit tomorrow. Debating on if I should work on a genestealer broodlord because its a larger model and might be more fun.

>>49839387
They are pretty good. They look cool, but if you use them, you kind of need to base your whole army with them. Also, the bases are plastic so you need to pin resin models to them.

Do i need to prime the GW-bases?

If so why are they pitchblack just as their primer, hard as fuck to discern what area i hit and what i didnt

>>49843643
You prime stuff because you want to paint onto the primer and not onto the plastic itself. Paint sticks better onto the primer as opposed to the plastic.

>>49842477
Not everyone plays at a GW store you know.

>>49843643
Everything should be primed. Priming does more than just provide an under color, it also provides a layer that miniatures paints better adhere to.

>>49843643
How about gluing sand onto the base and then priming it?

>>49837717
Give us them fukken close ups faggot

>>49838860
Sexual.

Simply sexual.

>>49843712
what if i dont want a sandy base?

>>49843677
>>49843643
well ok just was wondering, since some plastics seem to not need a primer reaper bones

>>49843905
Then you glue down whatever else you use for your base if you want to paint it.

>>49843347
>if you can't do a good technique, just do a shitty technique instead of learning the good one

>>49843963
Different anon but I drybrush skin and I know i'm a scrub. How do I improve?

>>49843974
A good starting point is, as usual, GW's videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsdjBtZJJ2k

tl;dw basecoat -> wash -> reapply basecoat but leave recesses -> 2 thin layers, gradually further away from the recesses -> edge highlight

How do you guys secure the arms/bolters/backpacks of marines for painting separately?

>tfw opening a finecast set I bought years ago
>its fucking unusable garbage

How did they ever get the nerve to sell this shit?

>>49840096
If you're still here, he looks good from what I can see, but the grainy pic really limits our responses. Go up to the OP and look at the "how to take a picture of a model" thing. helped me a lot when I was posting my Nids.

> I give it a solid 8/10 though. Better pic would tell us more.

I want to use Demigryphs as Bikes, I need ideas on how and where on the model to represent the bolters/ special weapon

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>>49842344
Got a better shot of it. I went for super thin layers with around 70/30 water to paint ratio and used nuln oil wash and a forest green wash back and forth between paint layers. The only silver I used was for part of the undercoat to accent the yellow mold lines. I left the gray undercoat for the border around the canopy and the detailed inner parts of the wing assembly. Not discouraged at all! Thank you for the advice and I really did take what was said about the Falcon to heart. Took me around 2-3 hours to finish the Firespray. Probably 1-2 for the Y-wing I did.

>>49843739
I'll take closer pictures when I get home tonight.

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>>49844670

I think the Y-wing actually came out better, even though I gave it the ugliest paint job ever lol but hey, it's an ugly ship.

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I tried a new method for Alpha Legion. Is there any way of painting these guys without a airbrush!

>Silver base, blue wash, green wash, blue wash
blotchy, and uneven, 3 lots of wash makes some patches really ugly.
>silver base, tamiya clear blue paint
tamiya clear strips paints off from underneath. if you wash it afterwards it loses its gloss
> white base, blue metallic pen, blue wash
( pic related) the pen lifts, and makes a kind of grit. the pen nib is too thick to touchup stuff accurately, and good luck trying to highlight fine parts.

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Painting up some Iron Hands today.

>>49844730
>Prime all that shit with Army Painter Platemail
>Mix Blue with a bit of Yellow Glaze
>Apply generously

That is how one of the 30k players at my shop did his and they look alright, better than yours at least.

>>49844730
Use glazes instead of washes dipshit.

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>>49844730

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>>49844746
Yes love to see more IH. Here's my IH AoP from the weekend

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>>49835277
Pretty good anon. Here's my Guard. And you might want to think about getting a wash for yours. I use Agrax on mine to dirty them up a bit.

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Troll Slayer left
Blitzer right

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>>49844970
>Tfw can't afford a sicaran

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>>49845272
Blocker left
Runner right

What do you guys think about this dwarves models converted into a Blood Bowl team.

Didn't have proper hands so had to cut and rework normal hands holding weapons.

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>>49841867
My goblin WIP and homemade table protector.

>>49845280
That was a recast pos but it worked enough

>>49844670
>70/30 water to paint ratio
That's way thinner than necessary
>used nuln oil wash and a forest green wash back and forth between paint layers
What the fuck, why? That completely defeats the purpose of painting multiple thin layers of your base color

>>49843347

no

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>>49845505
I wanted to give the paint some depth and thin out the bronze I used without adding other layers of other paint colors. I used way too much paint on my first models so I wanted to come at it from a different angle, hence the thinner paint.

>>49845442
>brining in a recast to GW store
Look at the huevos on this muchacho.

>>49843068
>60 bases for 33 USD
>vs 100 blanks for 40 USD
>0.15 USD more per base for a sculpted base
I get the hobby aspect, but for a quick project they seem way faster than working from blanks, and way cheaper than the resin bases from various companies which are usually 1 to 3 USD each

>>49843905
Sand looks very bad to scale. It ends up looking like coarse gravel.

Use something finer.

>>49845636
True. These bases are not bad at all (if you like their style ofc)

>>49845664
>coarse gravel.


Armies can fight on that stuff just as well.

>>49845716
It looks a lot better if you mix it up a bit. Baking soda and super glue with a little sand mixed in looks good

>>49845636
That's an unfair comparison though, since blank bases always come with the models

>>49845782
I like bird sand and/or vallejo texture paint the most

>>49845796
I ended up buying a big bag of blanks when rebasing an older army to 32mm, and there are still some odds and ends on 25mm like the DV models, Nobz, etc.

If you want a different comparison, then 55 cents per sculpted base, versus a dollar fifty plus shipping from secret weapon or the like.

The resin is better quality, but also costs more.

Anyway, I think I will just buy a box and try them out, since it seems like nobody actually has.

Why is it called 32 mm though?

>>49844335
Thanks for the reply! I'll try to get a better picture tomorrow. Had to use phone and it's quality really isn't too good.

>>49845906
who are you talking to and what are you talking about?

>>49845906
Because it's 32mm

>>49845382
Are these green because they are goblins or because they are sculpted bu you using green stuff? They look great and I want them

>>49845605
I played with recasted killakans for 2 years in a GW before learning its illegal.
Luckily they were shit anyways

>>49845583
I'm terribly sorry, but I don't think you understand how painting works. Go watch some tutorials on how duncan paints vehicles and try again.

>>49845906
Take a fucking guess.

>>49846262
Painted green. There is no way in hell I could sculpt those (actually my first every experiment with putty is the stone-ish looking thing at the bottom left of that picture).

https://www.atlantisminiatures.com/

I got them through kickstarter by the above who now have a nice range of goblins, orcs and trolls. They're doing another one to fund some dwarves soon

Would I, as an complete novice, be smarter in cocooning the to-be attached sections in blue tack and painting each individual piece of my models?

>>49846306

Not at all! I said back in the other thread that this is my first time painting anything ever. I'll definitely go watch some more videos before I work on my next ship.

>>49846734
What army?
If its a humanoid type army, like everything but nids, build the torso legs heads and 1 arm, and paint 1 arm (usually the gun arm) seperatly

>>49846923
Sphess Muhreens, so yeah,, they're humanoid.

Also ,for general kitbashing purposes, will HH models hold 40k weapons without any problem? Cutting my teeth on a standard tactical squad but I like the FW Heresy models WAY more looks-wise?

>>49846971
Yeah theyre designed to fit with tactical marines as well.

>>49847057
Awesome.

Final question, what's the best method for priming? I bought GW's Imperial Primer but brush priming is for the fucking birds, but the Universe rattlecan primer I bought went on a little thick but that was my fault too.

I just bought an old (OLD) Zoanthrope head off eBay that I'm going to use for a tableaux piece.
I've never worked with metal before, is it any different from the basic plastic when priming and painting?

>>49847131
There really is no difference, it is the same as plastic, though if you need to strip paint from a metal mini it's far more straight forward then plastic, just dunk in acetone.

Anyone have the gw painting chart that show basecoat- wash - highlight (layer or drybrush)?
It had a bunch of space marine backpacks for reference

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Back on to painting my Gorechosen again after a little break.
5 done now, 3 left to go

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>>49847304

>>49847337
Nice work!
Thin your paints!

>>49847114
I've been using Rustoleum 2x primer. Goes on evenly (in my experience) and easier to get in my small town than hobby primers.

A great many thanks to whomever suggested I look into Skaven for making some nice-looking Chaos Daemons for 40K. Very nifty stuff.

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painted the first bash of hybrids

>>49847515
Very nice!
Thin your paints!

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>>49847582
>>49847346
A-are you ok anon?

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I asked last thread but didnt get a response.
What colour is this coat?

>>49847616
Very paints!
Thin your nice!

>>49847659
Holy crap, this has been in three threads! Just pick a color of blue you like! Are you color-blind? It's not "supposed" to be any specific color.

>>49847338
what the shit? this is amazing how the hell did I not know this existed? Thanks!

>>49847692
Theres like 20 fucking blues, im about to email gw and ask

>>49847659
>What colour is this coat?
That coat is at least 5 different colors in that picture with half a dozen more transition colors.

>>49847659
I would do the fang, it's a grey base with a slight blue tint. Shade with nuln oil and hilight with a transition of the fang again and fenrisian grey

>>49847756
For the sake of sanity:
Basecoat with The Fang
Wash with Nuln Oil
Layer with Russ Grey
Highlight with Fenrisian Grey/Ulthuan Grey.

>>49847659
Its stead on scale green

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Working on some sad banana dudes. For those we cherish, we die in glory.

>>49845906
Would you prefer "one and a quarter inch"?

>>49847884
>>49847897
Thanks guys.

New to painting here. Does anyone else around here find it funny/weird that Duncan moves the exact same way in all of his tutorial videos?

>>49848048
Mad props. Lookin good so far, hope you have the freehanding skill for the checks.

>>49838475
I've met Dunc at WHW. He's pretty chill IRL I said I liked his videos and he said "thanks a bunch!"

Why and how do people put models on things as they paint? I've seen bottle caps, pill bottles, weird metal wires, etc. does this help keep your hand steady or something?

>>49835826
>smoking in the same building as miniatures
I Shiggy Fucking Diggy, asshole

>>49848971
Yeah, it's weird. I met him at warhammer world once and he moved so stiff I could haves sworn he was a robot.
I tried asking him questions but he didn't answer but when I used the word nice or good he would laugh and say "thanks a bunch!".
He just kept saying "thanks a bunch!" over and over.

>>49849066
My mental image of Duncan is not that he was sweating bullets the whole time while people ask him stuff, and he just mutters "t t thanks a bunch" because he is too nervous to really say much else, the whole time desperately wishing he could just be back at the studio painting models

>>49849194
>>49849267
>duncan is a servitor

>>49849119
It gives a nice big thing to hold onto, helps keep it steady, and makes it easier to adjust angles

For squads, paint stirrers work great. You can have five models on there and go at them assembly line style from any angle

>>49849267
He seemed pretty sociable, he was playing in the same tournament as me but I didn't get to play him :'(

>>49849370
what army does he play?

>>49849492
Grand army of Thror

Is this a bad order for painting?

>prime
>base
>layer
>metallics
>egding

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Anyone here has experience with converting this guy ? I'm wondering how easy it is to chop off his hammer hand and replace it with a pistol hand without damaging the vambrace.

>>49849552
What the hell is a grand army of thror?
Space marines?

>>49840995
Sos lads

>>49847897
Isn't that the Space Wolf colour scheme?

>>49849642
The grand army of King Thror consisting of the army of Erebor and Dale. It's Thorin oakenshields grandfather. Nerd 101 man.

>>49849552
WotR? is that still a thing?

or was it the hobbit SBG

>>49849820
Hobbit SBG, Duncs secret passion

>>49849828
Should be everyone's passion. Game's good.

I'd still play it if I could, but there's no scene locally. Uruk phalanx all day long.

>>49846306
This nigger doesn't listen, best not to waste time with him.

>>49849879
You US or UK? You're right if you're US but UK players can get games and tourneys if they're willing to take a train for an hour or two

So I'm doing

Khorne Red base > Agrax Earthshade Wash > reapply Khorne Red avoiding the recesses > Bloodletter glaze for surface highlights > Wazdakka red edge

Does this look like a good method for darker red dudes?

>>49849909
I'm LEAF

I could probably get some games in if I ring up a buddy and drive an hour or so out, but that's a ton of scheduling for what's best as a casual pickup game.

Thanks for reminding me I need to pick up some siege engineers and extra warriors, though. Also probably another captain if I can find the ballista captain with the proper hat on ebay.

>>49849593
I've worked extensively with stormcast eternal miniatures. As a shortcut I would just cut off the hammer and haft, leaving the hand. Then take your pistol and cut out the grip and trigger guard, and just stick it on the existing hand, using the haft it's holding as the new grip. It works well enough and you don't need to worry about finding a grip hand that matches the armor.

>>49849956
>LEAF
>LEAF?
>LEAF?????
>Start typing "LEAF country" into google
>Realize you're a maple drinker as I'm about to finish typing it in

>>49849588
lots of people do it, so no. I dont think there really is a bad order as long as you do it well.

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>>49849956
This fella? (Judge not the painting I was young and silly)

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>>49849593
Thanks. Any advice on his left shoulder pad ? It's a nice bit but I want to put a Chapter marking on it, so I'm not sure if I could shave off the hammer.

Also, going back to his hammer hand, how much can you angle it ? I think I could perhaps adjust the handle and give him a banner.

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>>49850115
Yeah that's him, I regret not picking him up yonks ago to go along with the other one.

you can't be a commander without a silly hat

>>49850160
Yeah it shows jut how important pose is on a mini. The pointing guy looks so much more commanding and rock solid than the charging guy

>>49849694
In the sense that those colors are named after Space Wolf things, sure. They're both blue-grey. The Space Wolves are a little lighter colored though.

>>49850145
Never had a stormcast in my hand, but i'm fairly certain with a round engraving bit and a rotary tool you could just hollow out the vambrace and put a SM hand with bolter/boltpistol or whatever else you want in there. Just put a ball of GS in there so you can angle it and the smooth it into the armor where you can see it.

As for the chapter markings you get a whole lot of loose banner tops and other decorative pieces on the DA veteran sprue and the Ravenwing sprue. Pretty sure one of those is gonna be the right size to fit onto a Stormcast pad.

>>49850145
Meant for
>>49849962

>>49849492
I thought he played Deathwatch? One of the WHTV videos was a short showcase of them. Which was funny, because he'd converted and painted an entire Deathwatch army off the Marines codex, months before the actual Codex: Deathwatch was announced.

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>>49850233
eh, he's not so bad once you give him a shield.

I should really strip and repaint these guys. They're showing their age.

>>49850287
If You do be careful, I've stripped uruk plastics for a friend and those swords/pikes don't like it

How do you motivate yourself to paint /wip/? I realised that I haven't painted anything since a did a single Genestealer in 2011.

>>49850320
Yeah for real, I used to have twice that many pikes.

I've still got other projects to finish first, they can wait a while. At least until I order some more uruks online and lose control of myself.

>>49849588
Maybe add Shade between base and layer

>>49850330
set aside your own permanent little paint area, get a little radio or something and make painting your relaxing personal time instead of an obligation

>>49850407
I forgot to write shade, I would have put it after layer, but thanks.

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>>49850145
I would start the conversion before you assemble the miniature to make cutting off the left shoulder easier.

>>49835277
at least you tried. too many shitheads these days don't even prime their shit. nice seeing a little color-- albeit your models look like colorful shit

>>49850583
I should also mention that stormcast eternal models are pretty big, like the liberator (the basic line infantry) are on par with terminators in size.

People have been using them for truescale marines. I tell you this because unless you make an entire SM army from SCE, they are going to stand out quite a bit

>>49835373
I don't mind that pose. I remember one of the old imperial assassin metal models was posed the same.

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Started on my Shaltari for Dropfleet commander.
I don't know if I want the ball in the middle of it to be orange or purple. What colour do you guys think would look better?

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I remember an snon wanting me to "review" the plastic arincourt minis from perry miniatures that I was getting. From what I see so far they seem to be pretty good in sculpt quality. The knights have thier heads alreasy on bodies cause of how thier helms work it wouldn't as easy to have thier heads seperate. From what I see the french and english infantry got few extra heads for choice. What was neat I saw was french got two types of crossbow. They got the ones that you use use those 2 cranks and then they got these hooks(pic related) that go on thier belts. So far happy with them. Just ask me if theres any other details you want to know and I'll try my best to answer.

>>49850785
I'd go with purple-white.

>>49850785
Orange for sure. Make it stand out. It should be the focal point of the mini, not blend in with the armor.

>>49847675
Very your!
Paint nice thins.

I don't understand the difference between regular white and Foundation White for Vallejo paints. What's special about Foundation White?

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So I'm not sure if this is the right board, but I used to post about my 40K shit here (which was INSANELY expensive) so I figure that scale models count as well

Where's the best place to buy? I used to get all my planes at my local hobbystore but they recently stopped stocking models in favour of more craft shit for boring middle aged women.

Pic related, my haul over the last year or so, and yes I know I suck at painting.

Should also mention I'm in the UK, so preferably UK sites or at least cheap international shipping

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>>49851121
welcome

best place to get kits? japan

this whole wall cost me three dollars and half a cup of miso soup

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tried airbrushing the first time

thinned my primer and red waaaay to much and it was dripping everywhere. Getting the hang of the flow control is going to take some practice.

>>49849588
Metallics isn't really a step on its own, it needs to be basecoated, shaded and highlighted as well

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>>49850583
>>49850255
Thanks. One more thing, any advice on finding good bits for banner bearers ? I want to have one in each Tactical and Devastator squad but not spend a ton of cash on dedicated minatures GW is pricing as if they're master crafted heroes.

I will most likely take all the backpack banner bits, find some hands with sticks, shave off the top of the stick and glue the rest of the banner there.

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Beginner here, please roast me. Still getting the hang of the basics and I'm happy with my models but I'm definitely willing to try some new techniques once I get comfortable (which I am starting to).

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>>49851646

back pic. Also sorry for shit resolution.

>>49851646
i like it. good understanding of complementing colours and it doesnt look like your paints are even too thick

>>49851646
>>49851656
looks like you missed a few spots, but otherwise it is a fine base coat. Not thick at all.

after touching up, consider some washes, layering, and finally some highlights to bring it to the next level.

>>49851339
Hasn't that poor dark angels model suffered enough?

>>49851700
Pshhhhhhh, it's not mine.

I paint even worse.

>>49851305
oh and before anyone says about mold lines, they two that were painted were old test models.

>>49847897
If I were to do my Guard's fatigues this color, what color should I do the armor?

I can't into color.

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>>49841867
Taking a break from painting orks. Heres my first painted marine tac squad

>>49852140
If you're going with blue fatigues then maybe a beige armor, or steel. Perhaps a ruddy brown.

>>49852249
I could do steel.

Would I want to do metallics, or would NMM be the way to go?

>>49852262
I prefer metallics myself, and judging by your ability with color I'd recommend you stay away from NMM.

>>49852281
Touche, anon.

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>>49852140
If the blue isn't too saturated, i.e. leaning towards grey and therefore somewhat neutral, you could do literally any of these colors.

Personal recommendations would be black, light grey or terracotta.

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Did a bit of cutting to make this hybrid dreadnaught, might consider adding some plating over the joints or movig them in a bit more. Otherwise pretty happy how he's turned out.

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Any old /tg/ able to tell me if old GW kits were white plastic?

Got this old Land Raider and started stripping the paint and I'm curious if its a recast

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>>49852397
It looks like he has smart dress pants on.
Somehow I can't help but imagine him tap dancing across the battlefield, doing a dancing in the steel rain number.

>>49852509
you're good

>>49852519
>I will two-step your skull into the ground, heretic.

Also thanks for the fast answer on the LR

>>49852397
LOVE me a Contemptor Tall-box.

If it's not too late I'd recommend bringing in the joints just a little bit. Nothing major, the shoulders and hips just seem a little wide.

Please post updates, especially right after you prime it. I get off on seeing conversions post-priming.

I got halfway through painting 4 tanks because I'm putting off figuring out the rule against perpetuities.

I'm so fucked.

>>49852397
whatcha gonna do with your spare bathtub and stumpy dred limbs? i dont think those arms will go on the tub body too well, probably a nightmare combination if you combine the worst parts of both dred designs but I bet it looks funny

Is there a good way to convert the necron warscythe color scheme on GW's how to paint a necron overlord vid from green to blue using citadel paints? I'm thinking replace the Caliban Green with Macragge blue, the Moot green with calgar blue, and the Yriel yellow with White Scar, but I can't figure out a good substitute for warpstone glow in a blue equivalent. Please help,

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>>49852519
>I live to dance on the battlefield again.
Do Space Marines dance? I feel like making this a part of his character...

>>49852575
They're just glu-tac'd to get an idea of the pose and yeah I'm going to move those joints in a bit. Otherwise a bit wide and vulnerable.

>>49852628
>pic related.
Give him an antigrav platform to be on, maybe some robot arms to play around with too and he'll make a fine Planetary Governor/Tech priest. The old Dread stuff is just TOO boxy for him and I've stuffed the legs on the box dread too. Hence the "new pants".

>>49852718
you could hollow it out and turn it into a professor x hoverchair or MODOK it out with tiny limbs

On a blue and black IG tank, I normally paint the detail bits silver with a dry brush of white over most of it, but I'd like to add a vibrant orange. Any suggestions on what minor details should be orange on russes, chimeras, or hellhounds? Preferably where I could write a little number too

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>>49852628
>spare bathtub and stumpy dred limbs
>stumpy dred limbs
>stumpy limbs
SQUAT
DREADNOUGHT

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Red or tan for dick capes?

>>49853940
Tan.

>>49853940
Black

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>>49854020
>>49853940
I think black would make them look like bees. Red, or a dark leathery brown, would work best I think.

What's going on with the shoulder pads? They look very bronzy.

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>>49853994
>>49854020
Any reason why in particular?

Also skill juice stage best stage.

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>>49854074
Well two of em have nice Codex trim shoulders I can put white on, but those big sculpted bits just yelled bronze at me.

Tend to agree, no bees.

>>49854077
I'm not saying black wouldn't look nice, but I think a very dark tan would make the model look less cartoonish.

Red (or at least a bright red) would make the model look very much like and angry marine and/or a mini painted purely with sandwich condiments.

I'd go with a very dark color to offset the brightness of the yellow. I'd go with a dark brown, dark red, black, etc.

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>>49854120
Ah, it looks better from that angle. I'd still try and darken the bronze /very/ slightly to offset it against the yellow.

Also, does this help?

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>>49854135
Interesting, thanks. Yeah ill probably darken down this medium tan then hit the seal papers with a lighter color to brighten them up and differentiate it. No bees, no condiments.

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>>49854176
Ohh, yes and I dig it. Maybe the deep brown, highlight with the red brown.

Also.. that power maul glow... I'm gonna have to try that out on something sometime.

>>49854201
>the thighs on that power armour
T H I C C
H
I
C
C

>>49852195
Anon you didn't drill your barrels. You had better not let the commisar see that.

man, 99% of miniwargamings vault content blows. im glad you can just use it for free and cancel right away.

>>49851121
If you type Tamiya into ebay you'll find loads of cheap stuff.

>>49845863
amazon had them free same day delivery, for less than MSRP no less

that's pretty sweet!

will post pics after they arrive

>>49851121
look up tamiya or airfix on amazon/ebay

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And there we go, thanks anons.

>>49852509
The old kits were of a significantly lighter in coloration, softer plastic