WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

>tfw complete a big job and struggle to gather the enthusiasm to start another

Any online painting guides for Brets? These fuckers are hard as fuck to actually make look halfway decent

Question guys, few days ago I went to my flgs to play some 40k with models I just painted and quite a few guys really liked them and said they would pay me to do some work for them. I said I would think on it as I am knew to the idea of doing commissions.

Who much should one normally charge to do this kind of work? I understand prices should be based on quality so models just base painted would be a hell of a lot cheaper than a model with 3 layer paints.

I'm from Ontario Canada by the way if that helps with an answer.

i'll take some wip photos of nurglings painted with washes stage by stage and post them up soon, for those curious.

>>49615342
work out the equivalent of a base rate per hour for how long the models take you. dont overcharge though, think of it less like you're doing it for profit and more like you're getting paid to practise painting.
post some of your models?

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My lights burnt out, so I had to stop painting early. Does this accent color work with the overall color I'm using here? Still need to clean up some of the Rakarth paint, do the gloves, and paint the center piece of the shoulder with Fenrisian Grey before I'm even done with the basing. But I did the accent color on a whim and liked it, and wondered what people's thoughts are.

Gonna have to put these guys on hold, though, I have a few days to assemble and paint an entire SM tac squad between work and college so I can get in on a Kill-Team game.

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>>49615374
This is my most resent one from a few threads back.

I am still pretty new to mini painting and honestly have not gotten the speed down yet. That mini I posted took me around 15 hours to do after having to redo a lot of things.

Honestly I like the idea of doing small projects for people just to put some cash into my pocket seeing as I am laid off for the season. But then again I don't know if my quality is even there to be giving this type of service to those that want it (even though they asked me).

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I am a beginner at painting and I am just doing the base for my Deathwatch captain. Any thoughts, or opinions? Am I doing alright for a beginner? Also I am watching Duncan's tutorial for this.

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>>49615460
here is another

>>49615460
Still too early to tell.

Be sure to thin ya paints m7, rule of 3. Three thin coats to make it look smooth but solid. You are also working on black, so if you throw bright colours (lets say white for example) base it with a neutral colour first like grey, then white over top once it dries so the white sticks out.

>>49615502
Thanks, I have been trying to thin my paints but am a bit unsure of how much I thin them. I feel like I did good on the silver pauldron though.

>>49615535
You want the constancy of milk, or little less. If you paint over your mini and see that the base is still showing through, that's fine. Just make sure you get it even, let it dry, then paint another coat. That's when the rule of 3 kicks in. Now, you don't need to follow it, personally I like it. But some just do 2 coats, some 4.

>>49615584
Skim or whole milk?

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Still working on my grey knight allied knight.

>>49615476
You actually thinned your paints!

Skim milk. Err on the side of thinness. You can always add more layers, but you can't take them off.

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>>49615959

That looks really good, keep it up.
His Sword looks like a tie.

>>49616031
hah. I know. My dad said the same thing when I showed him the pic.

>>49616031
actually, do you think adding some white lighting climbing up the blade would help it from looking so much like a tie?

>>49615342
Local dude charges the price of the model, this is in Kingston.

>>49615416
Whatever the white on the leg is it looks sloppy af.
But overall the color scheme (With a LOT of highlighting) could look good.

>>49616148
Rakarth Flesh always looks awful in photos for some reason. There's a little on the kneepad that I'll be repainting over. But like I said, no light.

"Lot of highlighting" is the plan, though I'm not exactly sure how on a few sections of it. We'll see, though. For the time being, I have a pile of Marines to do.

What's the site of the chinese guy to order models?

>>49616299
ebay?

>>49616299
Nice try gw

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Gsc character progress.

The primus is maybe 3/4s done. The magus is complete.

>>49616724
fucking sexy anon, though your blending on the cloth could use some real work, do you have a wet palette?
i really like the use of the phosphor pistol as well

what's a good complementary color for light purple/dark pink?

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>>49616031
>>49616105
I'm fucking paranoid, so I half assed some lightning.

>>49616809
Yellows, golds and greens, but I'd have to see the shade of light purple your talking about.

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>>49616907
the pants on this guy.

apologies for the shit photo as well.

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Does Anybody know where i can find heads like the helmets in pic related?

>>49616985
The helmet could be proxied using Skitarii Vanguard heads as a base and greenstuff-ing a Brodie helm over the top.

>>49616932
What part of the model are you painting the complimentary color?

>>49617201
on that particular model, not any part. Some of the genestealer cultists has robes next to their pants, however, so I wondered if I should keep the color the same or use another color to support it.

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When will gw make templars again.....

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Ended up with a hanmer ts his loadout

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i think i'm getting the hang of yellows.

I have to paint a GW modular city scape table. You know, the big 6 2x2 square table? Would I be able to get away with Walmart paint on this one? We want it to look good, but we don't want to break the bank doing it.

I am thinking of getting an airbrush after I spent 30 minutes painting a base of averland sunset on 3 space marines.

What are some good ones? I know very little about airbrushes.

Are the GW videos a good beginner guide? Finished assembling my first models and I kinda want to follow the guide for painting a Taurox with a slight change of colours. As far as I can tell the secret is to be as neat as possible?

>>49617686
yes
even when you're well into the hobby the GW videos are still good reference guides

>>49617686
they are usually good, but some are more beginner friendly than others

>Thin your paints just a little
>Multiple thin coats is always better than one thick one
>Always be as neat as you can
>Make a shrine and pray to Saint Rhodes every day

And if you ever want to try again, 91% isopropyl alcohol available at any grocery store, near the medical supplies, can remove acrylics in just 5 minutes with some gentle scrubbing without harming plastic.

>>49617718
>>49617722
Good to hear. I'll post the results here when I am done I suppose.

Also, when I am painting the hull Xerus Purple, should I shade it with Reikland Flesh like in the video or rather with Druchii Violet?

>>49617773
fleshshade if you want it to look like a dirty shadow, druchii if you want the area to look darker without changing the colour.
or for dirty shadows, agrax earthshade if you got it.

>looks at painting guide
>they recommend fleshshade for making a very bright gold
huh. I guess I can try that gloss shade and see if that works well?

>>49617808
be aware that layering or highlighting over a gloss shade will dull it and can cause it to look a bit shonky.
but reikland over yellows and golds works good, it gives a warmer tone than earthshade

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Progress on a patriarch

>>49617855
thank you for the tip. I'll just try it on one of my crap test space marines and see how it works out. same with using nuln oil gloss on some leadbelcher to try to make a sort of silver. not the most revolutionary ideas, obviously.

>>49617680
Anyone know ?

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Some yu jing Zhanshi I pooped out, don't know what else I can add, i seem to have hit a block. highlights, yes, but the model feels too rudimentary to deserve that. I was wondering about more color but that might just make it messy.

Thoughts?
>>49618003
I've heard good things about gravity-fed Iwata airbrushes. also dont skimp out on your air compressor.

>>49618003
Like anything, the more you spend the better you get.

If its something you want for basing models, most gravity fed dual action airbrushes are going to suffice. You'd still need a compressor, there are many options but for a beginner the compressor is likely the most expensive component.

If you can find a suitable benchtop compressor to put out 10-70 psi, with a moisture trap and regulator, plus a dual action airbrush, for arround $100-150 usd then you'll be doing well.

Buy yourself some things like airbrush cleaner, replacement needles, cleaning pot, and start practicing.

You'll likely make lots of mistakes early, even doing simple work like basecoating, so it's not worth spending much more than that at first.

>>49617680
as an alternative, armypainter offer a range of primer/basecoat spraycans. I use their white, brown and metal colours.

>>49617872
triggered

>>49615448
The mini is painted fine, but I am not a fan of the base. It's way too extended and I don't understand for what reason.
If he was rotated 180 and racing back to the centre of the base so it looks like he's coming down on someone then maybe it would have worked, but of course then the scrolls would be above him and not below unless they are secretly lead and not paper.

>>49615959
If only there was somewhere for the pilot to get out and go to worship the Emporer.

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Welp heres my Harakoni WIP. I have no idea what to do with the backpacks unfortunately.

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How does this look, WIP? I can't decide if the arm is too big for the canoness.

>>49618434
The marine arm looks hilariously oversized for that model. I think even with a smaller sized arm, you will struggle for a weapon the size of a combi-plasma that looks good being wielded one-handed.

>>49618486

Yea, I know. It's rough. I like how the pose turned out, but the arm is massive. It's basically a power fist for her.

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>>49618504
Perhaps you could try and get a marine combi-plasma, cut it down a bit, strap it to her back and have her holding some kind of holy icon, similar to the Helbrecht miniature?

>>49618529
Or perhaps the dove from the celestine figure, if you want a hilarious battlefield situation where your sisters of battle are wielding birds as weapons.

>>49618529
Or perhaps add the dove hand from the celestine kit?

Had this on the previous WIP thread, but here a rhino I worked a a bit on. I have only get to come up with a good colour scheme.

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>>49618566
And of course I forgot the picture itself.

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>>49618434
>Lion's Wrath

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>>49616985
Maybe these from Anvil Industries?

>>49617503
Soon, hopefully. I picked up the upgrade kit recently and it's not 100% compatible with the current tac squad sprue. Both Templar fronts and Tac squad backs have nibs, all of which I needed to shave off. The belt and collars don't match up perfectly either.

Also, the Templar chests are often to bulky for the bolters that come with the kit to be easily held across them and still link up with the supporting arm on the other side.

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>>49615448
Glad you didn't go with the red face, he looks pretty good now.

>But then again I don't know if my quality is even there to be giving this type of service to those that want it

See, these people don't spend their days looking at minis, developing an eye for all the minute details that make a paintjob great and flawless and whatnot. They just want painted miniatures and like the feeling of having something truly special. While your work may or may not be up to /wip/'s often unrealistic standarts, your friends will certainly be able to enjoy your work. In other words. Just do it faggot.

>>49615460
Early stages. I'd make sure to drill the bolter before you paint it. Other than that it looks pretty good. Make sure to check for mould lines, just to be safe. It's a pain to get rid of them on a painted model.

>>49617503
>>49617535
Underrated post. This is a badass conversion and a great paintjob. The only thing i dislike is the inside of his cape, it just lacks any depth with all the golden swirls in there.

>>49618434
The arm doesn't work at all. Basically i'd recommend cutting out the marine's arm from the weapon and putting all the parts together over the arm of a sister.

>>49618577
I see your pointy metal bawks and raise you two. It's a shitty picture because i'm currently sitting in the living room and also they are still wip. Please don't tell me to kill myself, again!

>>49617659
Most probably yes, terrain is easier and cheaper to paint with normal craft paint as opposed to miniature paint. Just make sure you thin properly and allow each coat to dry before putting on the next one.

>>49618643
Nice metal bawkses, can you possibly recommend a good colour scheme for a Nurlge rhino?

>>49618643
You the guy that posted all those white basecoated Plague Marines and some dipshit thought they were done and started calling you names?

If so, please post progress on them, I want to see how they're coming along.

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>>49618578

Yes, it's from Azrael lol

>>49618529
>>49618550
>>49618560

>holding some sort of holy icon

She comes with a hand holding a book, so that's not the issue. The issue is wanting to give her a combi-plas.

Putting it. Somewhere else could work, which is what I might have to do for her command squad. They have a flamer AND a combi-plasma. Not a double combi, btw. And actual flamer.

I'm thinking about sticking like a plasma pistol under pic related for that part. Not sure about the flamer.

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>>49618704
Could always get the combi-weapon from the tactical marine kit. Hand should be fairly easy to remove and, if you fancy, you can magnatise it so you can swap in the flamer and melta bits too. Bolter bit is on the bottom, so that can be left fixed in place.

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>>49618704
If you want something smaller, something like this might work. Mine is sloppy, but it might work for you. Just a bolt pistol and plasma pistol smushed together in delicious tech heresy.

>>49618687
I'd stay way from bright, intense colours. Instead i would recommend green, brown, gun metal and white, all of which work pretty well. Any light, dull colour that gives you the opportunity to distort the surface using washes and shades is good. Typhus corrosion, ryza rust and nihilak oxide are also great additions to any paintjob that involves nurgle. But remember that just because you're painting for the god of dirt, slime and all the nasty things, it's not an excuse to do a lazy paintjob.

>>49618691
I guess that was me, yeah, happens basically every time i post basecoated stuff - 4chan's predictable that way. My guys are halfway through the technical phase by now, i'll take some pictures later in the evening and post them asap.

>>49618770
Do you think that using baltashar gold and rune lord brass would work as a good scheme for the tank?

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>>49618900
Basically, yes. Although only so if you'd add Nihilak Oxide, otherwise it would just look shiny, and that would be so wrong. If you want to go that road, i would recommend starting with a coat of regular dull brown, preferably Bestial / Mournfang Brown. From there, you work your way up, put a thin layer of Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze over all that brown and you have a good base to start adding highlights. Keep in mind that this is a lot of work and you really have to thin your paints, but the end result should be worth the effort. I did this hood ornament with that technique, decide for yourself if that's what you'd like.

>>49618727

Yea, I'd have to remove the hand because it's left. Those might work for that one model, though.

>>49618748

In have a few PP that I picked up awhile ago, so I might try that, too.

Has anyone ever converted ogre leadbelchers to 40k?
I want to substitute and IG heavy weapons team with a ongre leadbelcher holding and auto cannon.

>>49618985
you can get forgeworld ogryn which i think even come with autocannons

>>49618248
My lack of a suitable church for the base shames me

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Combi-plas canoness guy here again

I just realized that she also came with a bolt pistol. It would take a bit of hacking through pewter, but what if I did something like this?

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Been racing ahead with the first Gobbo of a 4/5 man warband of Northern/Chaos Goblins without even asking myself if I should...

It's Bubba Yugo of Da Black Moonz.

What colour do I do his cape and loincloth? Wanted to keep him reaaaaal dark and midnight, sort of crow like, but need a bit of contrast in the clothes at least?

>>49619393
Maybe do a pattern on them? Can liven them up while keeping the overall dark tone of the model.

>>49619393
maybe a pretty well highlit light brown, make it look raggedy and freshly torn off the animal. i think if you keep the colours down too much you lose a lot of the details.

>>49619417
Hmm, yeah, I can dig. A black and white Blanchey check, maybe?

>>49619418
Yeah, I was considering flesh as well, at least on the big flat cloak. Maybe I could do both and keep the checks just on the loincloth?

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>>49618599
>that bottom middle one

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Vendetta guy from weeks ago! Progress! Thoughts?

>>49619393

Lovely work anon, what colours did you use for the skin?

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>>49619547
One more shot! Bit messy on the weathering but I was trying new things

>>49619551
Thanks, hombre. It's Celestan Grey, washed with Camoshade, then built back up. Threw a bit of Mephiston Red in there for the lips and nose.

https://imgur.com/gallery/NW6at

Hey guys, I know it's not WIP but I was hoping you could give me some critisisms on this blood reaver? I was trying to follow a guide but had to ad lib a lot of stuff and would appreciate some good critique

>>49619547
>>49619558
Weathering looks good!

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Right, so I want to build a guard unit based on the streltsy from Russia (pic related) in fluff they use a civilian chainaxe with an extendable pole for the handle and a laslock for ranged. They are fairly basic infantry, their only bonus being slightly better accuracy from sitting the rifle on the axe as well as some melee capacity from the axes. Now, I'm sure I can find some chainaxes and I'm sure I can find something that looks suitably like a one shit las gun, but I dont know where I could get bitz to make them look right. With the robes and the funky hat and everything.

>>49619932
>With the robes and the funky hat and everything.
I'm 100% sure you can get the bodies by piecing together some third party stuff.
Look for torsos with the fancy dress suit buttons and combine that with one of the many variants of trenchcoat legs.

Alternately - if you are open to a bit of a more varied look - I'd say buy some Frostgrave cultists. Gonna be cheaper too.
The third option, which I think would be even cheaper than the FG cultists would be to go for historicals. Usually that means you cannot kitbash with other GW kits anymore though since the proportions are different.

On the upside you can basically combine any piece of uniform from any time period you can think of. The FW miniatures are the same scale as historicals so you can still use some of the more 40k specific stuff if you want to.
From the top of my head I don't think there is a plastic range for those specifically, but if you use the Fireforge mongols as basis you should be close enough with the bodies. The hats could be taken from any kind of mini with a fez for example, including zouaves from the american war of independence or something more oriental taken from the crusades or what have you.
The helmeted heads should be easy enough to find. Mirmilton sells packs of heads sorted by helmet type, as do others.

If you look into the Separate Head system from West Wind Productions or any thirdparty manufactuer, you might even find an approximation of that helmet with gasmasks or something to 40k it up a bit.

Victoria also sells separate gasmask bits you could just attack to any normal historical miniature.
Which brings me to her range of arms. Which is to say the limbs with and without weapons. Her stuff if slightly smaller than the current GW plastics, so should look reasonably well on historicals. She also has a set of female arms for everything which should be even a number smaller.

If you mix all of that together you should be able to build the minis you want.

>>49620223
Thanks mate, that's very helpful!

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WIP on my GSC neophyte, thoughts?

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>>49616985
Have you looked at the "British Heads" by Blightwheel?

>>49620223
Also, this sounds like a shitload of work, thankfully I'm only using these guardsmen as Marshfield auxillary for my special snowflake speesh mehreehns chapter. Also, how difficult would it be to put all this together for someone that has never painted a mini in their life? Do they sell practice minis that I can keep stripping the paint from? I am a poorfag but have been into 40k for a longass time.

I'm going to do a super cheap Renegades and Heretics army. I already made a bunch of copies of Sentinel legs and the hull of a German 250 for Sentinel proxies, and you've already seen my KV2 Leman Russ tanks. What could I use for cheap field artillery, Valkyries, Chimeras. Hydras, and infantry?

>>49620483
Looking good. Face needs tidying up, but besides that and basing you look done.

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>>49617722
Duncan Rhodes always has your back.

>>49615188
Can some experts enlighten me on the pros and cons of airbrush vs brush?

>>49620588
Like a bombard or a thud mortar maybe?

>>49620708
How good of an painter is he? His videos are awesome for beginner, but do we know how a mini looks when he goes all out on it?

>>49620553
>Also, this sounds like a shitload of work, thankfully I'm only using these guardsmen as Marshfield auxillary for my special snowflake speesh mehreehns chapter. Also, how difficult would it be to put all this together for someone that has never painted a mini in their life?
Depends. If you buy 3rd party stuff you just have to assemble them like any other mini. Kitbashing, i.e. swapping parts or replacing parts fo historical minis is not much different, except that you don't glue the parts together that came in the same box.
Converting can be as simple or difficult as you are ambitious. These days you can get a lot of stuff from 3rd party manufacturers, making projects like this pretty easy.

>Do they sell practice minis that I can keep stripping the paint from? I am a poorfag but have been into 40k for a longass time.
If you have some metal minis paint those. If you want to strip them just drop them into some acetone and scrub the paint off.
Don't put the bases or any plastic parts into the acetone though. That stuff will just dissolve.

>>49620785
Most of his videos are done by GW to show how to get the best results with beginner-level resources and skills, which he does magnificently. I'm not sure how adept he is when he really decides to go all out with the green stuff and the hairspray, but with the amount of brush control he displays I would imagine he'd be quite impressive.

Probably off topic, but this doesn't deserve its own thread, I'm trying to find a model that would best represent a fish-man for DnD. Are there any wargames that have fishmen units with weapons? Or hell, just fishmen in general? I could probably just add on bits with weapons anyways.

>>49620738
>pros and cons of airbrush vs brush?
Pro and con list doesn't make much sense since they are different tools. You cannot use either or.
You'll always have to use a regular brush. An airbrush can speed up your process when painting hordes or vehicles or large minis in general though.

>>49620784
I'll be using my Reaper Sledgehammers for a bombard battery, but I'm blanking on what to do about Rapiers, Quads, Mortars, and Medusas,

>>49620738
You'll have to use both regardless. Airbrush is better for batch painting. Especially if you just want to spray base colors and leave it like that. It's also great for more advanced highlighting techniques and blending. It also is obviously much better than a brush for layering on vehicles and big units. Put it this way, pretty much any advanced painter has an airbrush and uses it for plenty of things, but most work is still done with brushes. If you want to be a serious painter, look into some 40k airbrush tutorials, see if it catches your eye.

>>49621034
http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/fishman

>>49621078
I'm aware that detail work always required a brush anyways, but I'm asking what are the differences between basing/shading with airbrush vs regular brush? What kind of different results does it give? I notice that airbrushed models tend to have smoother gradients, but less pronounced shadows, but I'm wondering if there were any interesting insights more experienced painters could give.

>>49620785
Just look through some WD, old and new, he's been featured in those countless times.
He paints a metric fuckton of miniatures, and they're high standard no doubt. The kind that gets plenty of praise here, clean, simple, effective models.
I remember seeing some of his deathwatch models quite some time before the recent release, he must have been delighted.

>>49621034
>>49621136
I paint minis for my DnD games too and reaper is always my go to. A ton of variety and good stand ins for all the iconic (read: trademarked) DnD monsters.

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>>49616985

Another possibility from Puppets War

https://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=121

>>49621142

You can make your shading have as much contrast as you want. Airbrushes are great for smooth transitions (which are an absolute bitch with brushes), zenithal highlights, basecoating, large areas... They're faster and easier for all of those tasks. If you want a good finish, then chances are you'll need to wash, layer, highlight and pick out details with a normal brush too. The airbrush primarily allows you to rattle through basecoats with a bit of shading really quickly.

>>49621015
Thank you very much anon. I was about to try acetone on one of the minis a good friend gave me to get the paint off. Do you have any suppliers you recommend for really out there bitz?

Let a model sit too long whilst stripping paint, plastic's gone a little soft (and the fucking paint hasn't even come off!)

Anything I can do to harden it back up whilst I wait to get Dettol? Will time help, or will it be soft forever?

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wip of a neophyte hybrid

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>>49621513

>>49621513
Looks really good so far- the rusted shotgun is a great touch of detail. How'd you achieve the grit?

>>49621547
thanks!
watched duncan's tutorial on rust

typhus corrosion on a metallic surface
rhyza rust
runefang steel

>>49621513
I like the vein-work on his scrotum head. Really unique bit of work, reminds me of this vampire counts model I saw once.

>>49621534
them mold lines tho

>>49621577
Huh, I guess I am gonna have to check out this Duncan after all. Keep at it, they look good- the rusted equipment really reinforces the idea these guys are a grassroots cult working from scratch.

>>49621599
Seconded. Stellar work there.

>>49621513
>>49621534
Nicely painted, what a shame about all those mild lines

Does anyone have and guides/advice for painting darker skintones? I'm ok at pale skin but i'm working on a model at the moment and I want to go for a more Arabian kind of tone.

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Reposting from last thread - does anything need changing on these two models before I seal them? Like colours that look out of place or somewhere I've done a brush stroke randomly.

>>49616815
Looks pretty good for half-assed lightning

>>49622324
It's a mess. Best to throw it in the simple green, strip and start from scratch.
Yeah, I jelly.

>>49621472
>or really out there bitz?
Well. There are so many companies that make stuff, it would probably be easier if you asked for something specific.

MaxMini, Kromlech, MicroArts, Puppetswar, MadRobot, Blight Wheel, Anvil Industry, Secret WeaponMiniatures and Victoria Miniatures are probably the biggest companies that do alternative IG stuff.
There are other companies that do their own ranges you could kitbash like Ramshackle, Pig Iron or as I mentioned West Wind too, as they sell their heads separate as well.
A couple of smaller companies like Tabletop-Art and loads of companies that do historical things.
Perry and Warlord also have bitspacks with separate heads for their historical ranges for example.
If you wanted to put tricorne hats onto your IG you could.

Warlord does a range of plastic Romans, Puppetswar does a range of sci-fi roman heads and there's a pseudo roman planet in on of FFG's 40k rpgs.
There are some crazy things you can do without much work at all.

>>49616985
Brettonian men at arms have those flat style helmets, looking pretty baller too.

>>49622324
It's all good from what I can see, but you may want to wait for more affirmative answers.

>>49622449
Dude, the guy's colour blind.

>>49622324
Those look goddamn amazing man. Great work, I'm jelly I can't paint at half that level. Post any other work you do!

>>49622324
The right-hand jetbike (the one with both Harlequins with hair on it) seems to have a misplaced stripe of blue in the red field, near the top. Other than that, no, it looks beautiful. I always enjoy seeing your posts.

Someone may have asked, but what variety of colorblind?

>>49622494
You have been a wealth of information. Thank you.

>>49622694
cheers pal, fixing that now. Red/Green. Someone suggested some glasses that fix it but I'm too poor for that.
>>49622587
thank you!
>>49622608
thank you, and I have been! I can post the rest of the wips in the thread.
>>49622449
:^)

Guess I'll fix that strip of blue then seal them tonight. Thanks for the help, all

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Ye olde Dreadnoughts assembled after a long while. Just need to put some paint on them now.

Ultramarines for the loyalist, Word Bearers for the traitor.

>>49620483

I like your choice of colours. Gives me an engineer on mars type of feel.

>>49622324
>want to post my shit
>people upload absolutely amazing things like this

I'll go back to thinning my paints.

When spray undercoating do I have to cover every inch of the model with the undercoat? Or will small patches be okay? At the least can I cover them with primer?

>>49623898
It's best to cover the entire model, because that means there isn't any difference in colour underneat the paintjob that could affect the colours.

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Anyone got the How to Paint GSC epub they can upload? I wanna eyeball some colors and some paint schemes.

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>>49623876
My stuff only seems good because I've taken so much advice from these threads and actually acted on the critique I've gotten. Post your stuff! Don't ever feel like it isn't good enough!

i was wondering: how much is it different to paint on a flat surface (oil, acrylics etc.) rather than minis? if you are already experienced in miniature painting, will you be able to start regular painting without major difficulties?

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>>49624512

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>>49624558
Bought a lamp last week, haven't quite worked out how to not ruin photos yet.

>>49624550
Scale is the biggest difference I imagine, brushes used for miniature painting are so much smaller than what you'd use for a canvas.
Also, there's generally no need for the level of precision you'd have gotten used too, as broad strokes, building up images for viewing at a distance is again, quite different from the minute stuff you're usually doing.

But the basics probably apply, though I doubt you'd be thinning your paints too much unless you were working with Watercolour painting.

>>49624512
That's what I thought, before I actually posted here..

>>49615188
Does anyone drill out smoke launchers on vehicles? Not sure if the cap is meant to represent unlaunched grenades or if it would look better drilled

>>49624550
Well, mini painting is kinda paint by numbers, except you get to choose the colours. You're still given predefined areas to fill in.

>no motivation to paint
>painting while unmotivated is going to look like shit
>upcoming game i need to finish 3/4 of a squad for within a week
>could just assemble and leave part unpainted but that'd look bad

what do?

>>49624959
Focus on painting and finishing a single miniature. Once you've seen some results motivation should come more easily.

>>49624809
drilling barrels is one step below moldlines when it comes to "memes /tg/ gives too much shit about"

>>49624959
what you're looking for is discipline, not "motivation"

>>49624550
>>49624945
This is only true for the new GW stuff. Those minis are so littered with detail you can't do anything else.

Minis like from Hasslefree for example have lots of flat surfaces where you can paint different materials and textures or even reinterpret the sculpt.
A cheesecake babe could be clad into a latexcatsuit or what have you. There are loads of ways to do stuff like that if you are clever about it.

On the whole painting on canvas and painting on minis is different but similar.
Number one advantage you when crossing from one into the other is that you know how to handle and maintain your brush.
Acrylics for canvas and miniature paint are different though and painting in oils in a different thing altogether. You can paint your minis with oils too though btw.

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Finished my second Gorechosen model

Trying to get a real gritty effect with these to really emphasise the brutality of the game

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Lighting is a bit shit because it's night time.

>>49620483
Thin your paints

>>49624979
Unfortunately, when I've posted here in the past, my painting tends to get called shit every time even though it's better than most people in my local community. and no, I'm not Mumak. So the results... aren't all that motivating.

>>49625061
cool OSL

>>49625095
Don't post it here then, these threads are full of elitist dickheads.

>>49625095

I've noticed the trend that if I can manage to throw in the basic colors, a wash the next day will be sufficient for throwing models on tabletop. Can highlight and neaten details afterwards. Them washes, man, wish I had them as a kid.

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>>49625095
People will always criticise paintjobs. If you can take the useful criticism and forget the rest you'll grow massively as a painter.

>>49625095
>I'm not Mumak
See, it's not so bad then.

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Blood for the Blood God. Skulls for the Skull Throne.

My bloodthirster is nearly done, after a hard weekend of working, Based him today with more skulls than you can shake a stick at

What do you think?

I don't post here either. Its intimidating amongst obvious pro's that post there models and it does have a certain circle jerk feel to it that unless you are on the same level you just get shit on.

Here's a prime example.

>>49625070

I look at that guys model and i think it looks great, but this is the kind of response even he gets. Its not even that harsh which it mostly is here but to me that is just not helpful info. Maybe it is true, but atleast explain where or what you mean. Is the orange too thick or something? It looks fine to me. Or is it just a dank meme that gets reposted from people that think their being hilarious? Why even bother posting it unless you can be specific or constructive in your criticism.

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>>49625234

>>49625264
You're on an anonymous image board. Just ignore the shitposters.

>>49620483
i think it looks great

>>49625264
just ignore people who just say "thin you paints" it's a tired and unfunny meme at this point.

>>49615584
I think it depends on the paint you're using. I just basecoated my Blood Angels like that, using only 2 layers of Mephiston Red because that's such a strong colour.

>>49625234
>Based him today with more skulls than you can shake a stick at
>What do you think?
Can you build a church with those skulls?

>>49625234
I like it, the axe head looks a little bit off to me though, I think the yellow you've got going down the front of it needs to cover a little more of the blade so it joins up with the top spikes.

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My first Skitarii guys finished. I was a bit unsure about the scheme in the beginning, but I think they came out pretty nice in the end. I want to make snow bases for them, any good tips?

>>49625435
Bretty good. I like how clean the finish on the robes is.

>>49625435
Pretty good. My only criticism is that the rifle looks a little flat. Either wash or highlight the brown and give the gold detailing a highlight so it stands out more. Colour scheme has worked the whole model looks great.

As for snow, I know GW does some snow texture paint but I don't know if it's any good and/or basic as fuck.

>>49625489
Looks good! I literally just finished the blue base coat on my skitarii, haha. I've gone for a brighter, less washed out blue though. Yours definitely lends itself to some snowy bases, but I don't know any techniques I'm afraid. I know GW do some snow texture stuff.

>>49625435
I'm also doing Skitarii, but mine are a lot more muted-looking than yours. What colors did you use for the backpack and the rifle's wood?

>>49625372
Thanks for the advice ill be sure to add that in.

>>49617680

General consensus as far as I know are Iwata. Badger ones are pretty good for just basecoating and pretty cheap (that's what people tel me at least).

I have a Solo Evolution Harder & Steenbeck with a 0.2 nozzle. Great for detail and stuff, but if you're just gonna basecoat get a cheaper one with a bigger nozzle.

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>>49625364
Very possibly

>>49625435
>any good tips?
Go to a model train shop and get some snow glitter effect.
One bag will be enough to last you for several armies and depending on how you use it you get different effects.
If you just put it on as is you get dirty/shallow snow, if you use white paint in your glue you get really bright glittery snow. Looks like it has huge crystals.
If you make a paste with gloss varnish and apply it it looks like it melts.

If you throw red ink or whatever on top if it it also stains quite believably.

>>49625512
>>49625574
We're gonna have a whole spectrum of blue skitarii here aren't we?

>>49625788
Mine are green. And my Rangers are red.

>>49617535
Saved. That's a sick Templar, anon.

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>>49625788
>spectrum
hee hee

Not really a surprise. Blue's a good colour.

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I can't for the life of me achieve a power sword glow. A smooth gradient always eludes me, and it always ends up uneven and shitty. I achieved pic related with a dry, feathering technique, but does anyone have any advice on improving it?

Hi guys, can I get some feedback on this? This is the only pic I can grab atm.

I know the face needs work (I'd never done bare faces before) but was my first time using oil paints and I tried to blend the gold on the kneepads, etc. Please help me get better!

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>>49625952

I'm an idiot.

>>49625928
I think you criticise yourself a bit harshly. I think that looks pretty well done

>>49625928
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clWZUwAN_zc

>>49625990
That's one hell of a stare he's got

>>49625990
Insufficiently beautiful lips.

Besides that, beautiful work, anon.

>>49626014

Yeah.. I couldn't be satisfied with regular eyes so I threw a red glaze over them to make them "glow". I'm probably going to go back and redo the face.

>>49626073

Should I paint them blood red like lipstick or sharpen them up a bit? Thanks for the compliment anon.

>>49624512
How'd you do the legs/torso on (what I'm assuming is) that Grotesque? Always looking for conversion ideas.

>>49626272
sharpen them up, red would be gay

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Should I even bother trying to do the MKIII helmet's lenses, or just leave them black? They're a serious fucking pain in the rectum

>>49626597

Get a 0 or 00 brush and paint white. Then do a wash over that (whatever colour you want). Works like a charm.

>>49626597
If you have the control to do that kind of glow-work then go for it, but nobody will fault you if you leave them black.

>>49625990
His eyes just seem wrong to me, but other than that I'd say that I'm ready to accept the word of Lorgar!

Does anyone here sell the models they no longer want?

I posted in the 40k gen about how I don't play the game and have no skill in painting but I love the lore and would love to own a few to put around my desk and workplace.

>>49625993
Thanks m80. Only problem is I can't replicate the effect using wet paint at all; I've tried tutorials like >>49626012 and Duncan's Nemesis Force Sword, and I just can't get it right.

At least feathering seems to work well enough.

>>49626801
I sell my old shit whenever I can. I'm actually looking to move a bunch of stuff; is there any particular minis you're interested in?

>>49625007
Are you actually defending leaving mould lines? Just because you think it looks fine doesn't mean it's not complete shit because you were too lazy to take 5 minutes a mini to clean them.

>>49626946
That's the thing though mate. You just gotta find what works for you, just cus someone says that "x is the way to do it" does not mean that "x" is the only way to do it, or even the best way to do it. I think that your sword looks pretty awesome.

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>>49625870
Cheers man ill post finished pics tonight maybe

>>49626973
Mainly dreadnoughts and terminators

Looking for some from
>Space Wolves
>Mary Sue Marines
>Blood Angels
>Emperor's Children
Got any?

>>49625484
Thanks. Since it's cloth, I kept it pretty flat with just a few shadows and highlights.

>>49625489
Thanks. They are highlighted, but it didn't come out very well in the photo. I don't want to make super sharp highlights on non-metal areas. I think the GW snow is more like white grass (some kind of straw material) than snow, but I'll take a closer look next time.

>>49625489
>>49625574
Cheers. Non-red spectrum Skitarii are pretty rare, as far as I've seen, but it'll be interesting to see others too.
The backpack is based with Mournfang Brown and highlighted with Deathclaw Brown, the rifle is Deathclaw, covering layer of Agrax and then just highlighted with Deathclaw again.

>>49625685
Thanks for the tips, I'll see what they have at my local hobby store.

>>49623876
check
>>49624512

this, these days i check for mouldlines, drill my barrels, thin my paints and what not, all becuase people in /wip kept pointing it out. i'm in no way a golden demon level painter now, but it all helped to make my mini's look even better

most times you get no or only more thin you paints reactions, but it's always nice if an anon likes your work.

>>49627506
People would say "thin your paints" less if more people actually thinned their gatdamn paints. You'll see even otherwise great painters with this gritty, too-thick texture on their paintjobs all the time.

>>49627173
>>49626973
Anon who replied here, if you're interested still please email me at [email protected]

Thanks again

Was painting my slaanesh daemonettes I've had sitting there for a good 7-10 years but one of them is missing an arm. Can't find it anywhere.

What do.

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>Ask FLGS if they would stock paints so I don't have to drive an hour or pay online shipping
>They'll think about it
>Ask again a month later
>Between Imperial Assault becoming really popular and a WarmaHordes community picking up steam, they've decided they want to stock paints, just need to figure out specifics
>Hey, paints are in stock now
>Go in
>It's fucking Army Painter
>mfw

>>49627736
>What do.
attach a fancy sword arm or scythe arm and call that one a champion

>>49627736
greenstuff where it should go into a proper stump. Slaanesh is probably into that stuff.

>>49627763
Is that bad, or-?

>>49627901
Army Painter has a terribly tiny selection of paints. And I looked, my FLGS is carrying almost the entire Warpaints line.

>Hi, I'm Ron! Duncan is away!
;_;

>>49628000
Watch the full vid, gw a bunch of memers.

>>49627972

Only thing AP is good for is colored primer with matching paint, dip cans, dropper bottle colors, colored washes, disposable brushes, and battlefield tufts.

So while their paint range is subpar in colors, they still offer a lot of shit companies like Vallejo doesn't. I guess the fact that the store specifically stocked AP just for paint colors would be pretty bad, but the brand has a lot of good shit.

>>49628440
They are carrying a very limited amount of AP washes and primers. Fortunately, I really like the Uniform Grey primer.

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Little kingdom death thats been at this stage for ages now lol back into 40k atm

>>49628566
I broke my neck looking at this photo, and the camera is focused a little weird because you are holding the model, but otherwise nice work the freehand on the leg looks good

How do you guys model your power mauls

Can anyone recommend me a good mounted barbarian figure? Don't care what it's mounted on, I'm gonna chuck it on a reaper monster.

>>49628000
>>49628036
top kek

>>49628566
Izzat one of those fancy Kickstarter miniatures I'm likely to never get?

What do you guys do for desk lighting? I'm currently in student accomodation and as such my situation is dire, the main light here sucks ass. I've got a directional desklamp, one of those huge ones like in the Pixar animation, but the downside is it gets stupidly hot and I end up sweating and it fucks with my paints.

>>49628973
Scrape together some cash and pop an LED daylight bulb in there. Lower temperature, and the daylight one give a "truer" color than other bulbs.

>>49629074
I love daylight bulbs and use them throughout my entire home

it really hides the fact that I live in a tiny shed

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>>49628973
I use my dad's old industrial desk lamp that is nearly identical to pic related. I really really like it. Strong, sturdy, and wide lighting.

What's a good alternative to gw spray primer? Fuck giving them 18$ for a can that doesn't last all that long.

Also what are some things to look at in quality brushes? Any good brands ?

>>49629392
GW sells spray paint, not primer.

>>49628941
It's Kingdom Death. It's a game that sells $25+ 28mm models that have a good deal of cheesecake and even some beefcake.

However they do everything in limited runs, though they do encores for the popular models.

I love them personally.

>>49629427
Wait so there's no real point in using the chaos black spray? I was told you spray your models in that down so the paint sticks better than to the gray model

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Two marines of the Void Sentinels now painted. Brother-Sergeant Theagenes and Battle-Brother Chaeron. They're not perfect. They're not even necessarily *great*. But I'm proud.

Now, to do eight more before Saturday on a 60+-hour schedule...
Full disclosure: I had to use color balance to take my camera/lighting's heavy red cast off. The colors are very, very slightly bluer than they actually are. I did my best to make it accurate.

>>49628973
I got an LED one that has a magnifying glass in the middle. It has a little flip top for it too. Its really fucking neat.

>>49629392

Literally any other acrylic spray primer.

Army Painter is slightly cheaper and comes in more colors and is an actual primer. Normal paint brands like Krylon, Duplicolor, Rustoleum, Halford's, etc all make good black/white/grey primers. Tamiya is about the same price per size but has the ultimate primer, same as Duplicolor. You'll know they're good because their cans are tiny and they cost almost as much as a large can.

>>49629392
>Also what are some things to look at in quality brushes?

Forms a tip when wet. Uses kolinsky sable hair. Inb4 "taklon is just as good and I prefer synthetics"

>Any good brands ?

Raphael 8404, Winsor & Newton Series 7, Da Vinci. Anything else is garbage tier. Yes, even Rosemary and that one Kickstarter sable brand with the cap.

>>49629482
There is a point. After you spray your model with an actual primer, the GW sprays can color the whole model quicker than brushing on the color.

>>49629527
>Anything else is garbage tier.

I want to support this real quick. Even within the named brands, other lines WILL make a big difference. I used a Winsor & Newton University brush for highlighting and detail on >>49629499, and in the course of these two models, it went from a "good" point to not holding any point whatsoever. Even with proper treatment and use of Masters.

>>49629476
But WHICH mini is it? It doesn't look like anything I've seen in the KD:M store, so I'm assuming it's exclusive to KS backers?

>>49623855
Thanks, kinda the look i was going for, mining station on a moon base

>>49629482
The sprays and "Imperial Primer" listed as an "undercoat" paint

the truth is that as long as your model is good and clean a lot of paints will stick fairly well, but some will stick better than others. If you've been handling your models a lot, you can wash them to get the dust and oil off before you paint.

Most models, especially resin models, will have some mold release agent on their outside if they are brand new. Washing this off helps the paint stick a lot.

Starting from a flat black, grey, or white base is useful depending on your color scheme. Black is nice in particular because if you miss any spots with your brush they will not be as obvious

>>49625202
Jesus Christ the poor fuck who posted that Mumak is still be ostrasized?

>>49629605

Paint will stick to bare plastic if it's clean. The problem is it will flake or scratch off without a proper coat of primer. Spraypaints adhere to the plastic a lot better due to the aerosol, doubly so for spray primers. You could honestly paint straight onto the plastic if you wanted to, but I wouldn't recommend it.

>>49630347
I missed it, what happened?

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>>49628916

>>49630369
A complete over reaction and pile on to one guy who posted in the last thread.

>>49630397
Who is this guy? He's appeared twice to shill shit, but damn if he doesn't shill it in the funniest british way.

>>49630552
He's Rob

>>49630552
probably just one of the guys working behind the scenes on warhammer TV

>>49629583
Its the druid, released a couple sets ago on the shop, may go encore one day

>>49629583
Its the druid man, relased in shop a couple sets ago

>>49630369
Tripfag posted a six-picture dump of his averagely painted mumak.
Got the shit torn out of him for it.
Threw a tanty; got the shit torn out of him for that as well.

>>49625095
I myself am a barely-not-shit painter and I haven't been chewed out for my models yet.
If you ask for criticism, you'll get it. 'S just fa/tg/uys helping you improve.

>>49624959
>Batch Those Fuckers

>>49631041
It started out humorous. But quickly got out of hand. As stated the guy posted six pictures. It wasn't excessive nor did it warrant the flaming he got.

>>49630945
>>49630966
Thanks

>>49631101
>It wasn't excessive nor did it warrant the flaming he got.

>tripfag
>not deserving of

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R8 my custom Magos Dominus. I'm planning on tidying up the skirt a bit once the green stuff's dried, but apart from that, I feel that he's pretty much done.

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>>49631101
Whatever. Day one I knew you don't post with a name unless you're an 8/10 special fucking snowflake.

>>49615959

Looks pretty great. My only criticism would be the black lines dividing the shield into 4 parts look just a little bit shaky.
That could just be distance though, they might look fine up front. The pic is a tad unfocused.
Really like the color scheme and the gold trim is very clean.

>>49629527

What about Escodas? I've had extremely good results with those.

>tfw want to post pictures of your very first models you spent years finishing even if they're not that great
>tfw no light booth, proper lighting, or decent camera to get passable photos

This is like the WIP equivalent of Forever Alone.

>>49631450

Going by the stock photos, they look good, but everyone knows stock photography lies. Judging by the price, they are probably Rosemary & Co tier: passable kolinsky sable brushes at a more affordable price point. Since they are only $2-5 cheaper than a Raphael or W&N S7 per brush, you might as well buy the best of the best. The 8404's and S7's quality is unsurpassed. It's like driving a $60,000 sports car and a $100,000 sports car. Yes, the $60,000 is leagues better than a $20,000 econobox, and with a skilled driver and the right modifications can even match the expensive car, but it still won't beat the high end $100,000 in general terms, e.g. same driver/level of optimization in each vehicle.

Honestly any kolinsky sable brush that holds a point and does not shed hair or fall apart will do a novice painter well compared to disposable/non sable bad quality brushes. You don't NEED the best of the best, but why not start with them anyway since they are so close in price. You don't have to worry about banging them up because kolinsky brushes are actually more durable than cheap brushes due to the quality hand-craftsmanship and they aren't so expensive that you can't replace a $10-15 brush you fuck up after a year or two.

The brush (or airbrush) is the tool you use for 99% of your painting. Don't you think you should get the best of the best if you're going to be working with it so often?

>>49631359
>>49631041

It wasn't a tripfag. He used a name without a trip for a few posts though. One person called him out on his shit though, and he got his feelings really hurt. That's when the shit started going down.

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buy 25 shit brushes for 10$, use scissors to cut brushes to size as needed

>>49625264

Thin your paints is just a meme.

Don't get me wrong, it's sound advice and should definitely be done, but 9/10 times it's some idiot just spouting shit. The guy you quoted is one of them.

>>49631656
its all because of that damn video

I'm thinking of starting painting miniatures.

I figure the Ultramarine set on the GW site would be a good starter.

Are the Citadel brushes they sell REALLY worth the $50?

>>49631706
no they are really not

GW hobby supplies are the WORST

>>49631409

Are those bass and electric guitar strings?

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https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Detail-Paint-Brush-Set/dp/B014GWCLFO/ref=sr_1_13?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1475557901&sr=8-13&keywords=paint%2Bbrushes&th=1

buy bad crap brushes at your local wherever, use scissors to cut to size if the original sizes dont work

>>49631745
they are leaps and bounds better than they used to be, especially the paints, but the tools are still at a goofball premium price

if you buy paint bottles individually, GW is almost the same price per ounce as vallejo.

>>49631655
>cutting brushes

That's terrible fucking advice from that terrible .jpg guide that used to float around. If you need various sizes just pick them out at a store that sells them individually for $1 each, or buy a $5 pack that has like 10 different sized and shaped brushes in it. You will never cut it accurately or properly enough with scissors and for jobs that don't require that kind of accuracy such as drybrushing or painting glue, you don't need to cut the brush at all to begin with.

>>49631706
>Are the Citadel brushes they sell REALLY worth the $50?

No. They're not bad brushes but they aren't worth more than $5-8 or so. Get a $10-15 high quality kolinsky brush. Most people use Winsor & Newton series 7

>>49631774
Sure are. There's some chains from World Eaters Rampagers mixed in with them.

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>>49631826
Good man.
I too like to use similar materials.

>>49631067
Well, doing one of them took me like... two and a half hours. And I'm not going to get that long of a sitting again any time soon. Oh well.

>>49631745
paint's good
tools are good but overpriced
brushes are acceptable (considering their competition is just as bad) but there are definitely superior options

none of their stuff is what I'd call the WORST, but that's largely because in 20 years of working in hobby-related jobs you see a lot of shit that is way below what anyone here would consider acceptable

>>49631706
when you're just starting off buy the basic arts n crafts paint brush sets you can get at any corner store for like 5 dollars a pack. get one that has some different sizes, hopefully with a tiny one for details.

dont buy expensive brushes until you've had the experience using them to know how to care for them

>>49632527

Shit advice. Shit brushes that can't even hold a point will ruin your paintjobs, and the ones that do hold a point such as 3/0 or 5/0 only do so because they barely have more than a couple hairs in their ferrule and no reservoir. Don't ham-hand your expensive brush and mash the bristles on the sidewalk and they will be fine. They are more robust than cheap brushes.

>>49621513
great model but you got a pube stuck on the barrel, if you know what i mean

>>49629527
Do you just buy the individual brush you need off Amazon? I'm not familiar with their sizings, what's the equivalent of : small base brush, medium base brush, artificer layer (xs), and a standard brush? Those brushes being the ones I use most, I think it's a safe assumption that for drybrushing and washes a cheap brush is acceptable?

that brush soap stuff actually works and isn't just a meme

color me surprised

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>>49618577
Here is an update on my chaos rhino. I went with a light green and brass as a colour scheme and I think it looks pretty good. It is still far away from being done. But what do you guys think of it so far?

>>49632921
looks very flat, but it is just a base coat so that is expected. What colors are you planing to layer over the green? Are you going to wash the bronze?

Also the base work you have on the rhino is interesting. It's modeled like a giant hand from the warp itself is grasping at the rhino. Well done.

>>49632852
Why the fuck would you think it was a meme. I don't understand you morons and thinking people are lying about obvious advice, like thinning your paint, using thinner instead of medium, using kolinsky sable brushes, not getting paint in your ferrule, not storing your brushes on their points, and using brush conditioner.

>>49632948
I was thinking of keeping the green and using lotherien forest to highlight the edges, and I plan ouch mixing nuln oil and Agrax earth shade together, along with the oxide paint to give the brass a weathered look

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Are there any information on how Militarum Tempestus regiments get their names? Seems the naming convention is [number] [Planet] [random animal] but there isn't any detail how they get it. Any ideas?

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this model i did six months ago, recently stripped it and...

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present, but unfinished repaint.

So for my 40k chaos project Im reaching the finish line but I need one guy...

I need a good power armoured slaanesh sorceror, but I just cant find any model that really stands out. Does anyone have any good ideas?

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>>49633290
set SAYL

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>>49633280
crisper photo before the washes. i think i'm getting the hang of yellows

d you guys paint your minis all as one piece or do the arms and such separate before attaching them? Like for the inner trim of pauldrons and backpacks

I'm new to this and I'm afraid of fucking up with a mispaint by getting it where it shouldn't and potentially ruining the work I do.

>>49633374
I assemble the mini and paint it all in one. But some other do it differently, it's more of a personal preference.

>>49633374
Depends on the model.
For mormal marines I usually just leave the weapon off, for special characters with real elabrate details, I ussually wait with assemnly after the painting.

>>49633374

I paint everything separately, but I do assemble some things like torso halves.

Honestly the only things you should leave off are heads (for detailed painting of faces if you're at that skill level), weapons (if they are large, and because they block the chest) and/or arms and backpacks/capes (block the back).

If you prime in black you can assemble everything and use the black as shadow. Personally the furthest I ever assemble is legs and torso glued together. Arms, shoulders, heads, backpacks, weapons, base all separate. Having to be careful gluing them together is worth the effort compared to trying to paint unreachable spots and having my OCD trigger.

>>49633374
depends on the model and how easy it is to do sub-assemblies

stuff like capes and large shields for sure, but if the post and weapons don't obscure anything I don't see a reason to fully assemble first.

I also usually do not paint bases separate, as I've noticed that when I do this unless I do waay too much planning for rank and file they end up floating about the base, which isn't a good look.

Plastic also sticks best to bare plastic, and not to basecoated plastic. If you do sub assemblies, make sure to make off the joints.

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>have to base 20 models, do my entire aop board and paint my Herald of tzeentch for it
>all in 2 weeks
Help me

>>49633812
Basing can be pretty easy. Either just paint it like stomped mud, or just whiteglue and flock it.

Herald is also just one model, you can do it. (unless you mean a chariot, which is understandably a bit more tasking)

You can do it, bro!

Anyone have some tips for painting skaven? I'm obviously going to give everything a very heavy weathered look with washes (nuln and agrax) as well as try some weathering effects like dabbing leadbelcher with a paper towel. Any other techniques you guys would recommend? I'm not sure how to paint rust, although that might be cool.

Side note, I'm completely lost for bases. I need them to be simple since there are alot of skaven but I'm stumped for things that fit their theme. I was thinking agrellan earth(?) Bases and sprucing them up over time.

>>49633812

>basing
>roll of cork
>some superglue
>bit of primer
>done

>>49633812
PVA-glue + sand + paints = a finished base

>>49634189
>being lazy with bases

Please, bases make the model.

>>49633951
>>49633951
I haven't painted any Skaven so take this with a grain of salt.
Because they tend to have a lot of hoard units that get picked off the table pretty quick I wouldnt worry about putting too much into each model.
If you go base-wash and then dry brush something complimentary to your base it should highlight the raised edges for you while taking the shine off of the wash.

For bases, they live underground right ? where shit might be buried ?
Do you have spare weapons ? cut them as you like base them bronze brush on some rust.
Also if you have like the packing Styrofoam's that you get in packages you can cut them up to make cheap rocks.

Managed to snag a pair of cruisers and a Retribution class battleship for 40 euro, pretty happy about it.

Any recommended tutorials on how to build these old ships?

>>49634288
"You're smart, figure it out"

If I'm remembering right, gothic stuff never came with instructions and died out before video tutorials were a thing.

>>49633951
Recent Duncan video on painting rust is good, although I usually use apathetic fish's guide on the video on (I think) plague marines, although may be his Death Guard vid, I can't remember.

>>49634346

Ho boy, I better get some clay and make practice copies since I don't want to fuck this up. I play black templars and I've always wanted some ship models to represent the actual fleet dropping all those fuckers on the enemies of mankind.

>>49634454
just look up images of built ships online and dry fit everything before doing any gluing

They're fairly straightforward models.

>>49629392
I use stuff from Wilco and hardware stores and it's yet to bite me in the arse.

>>49634288
I recall people complaining about the battleships and recommending that you pin the shit out of them.

>>49634483
>>49634815

Yup, that's going to be the plan. Just went to the store to pick a few packs of poster tack. I'm thinking of greenstuff pressing the plasma batteries so I can make escorts. I wish I had some flight decks so I could make an emperor class instead, seems more appropriate for Templars.

>>49633251
do whatever the fuck you want.

First Cookie Monsters it totally a valid name.

Anyone tried art supply acrylics on minis? Amsterdam brand seems like it could do the trick, and model paint is hard to get in my town.

>>49635278
Bought some cheap stuff to cover gaps in my colour range early on, but it never went on evenly and was pretty thin.

>>49632949
It's so repetitive that it does sound kind of meme-y, even when you've been doing it all along and know
first hand it's sound advice.

>>49625234
At the top of the icon, where you've painted the blood - is that white paint highlighting the top edges of the icon, or flash from the camera?

>>49635959
It's flash, look at the plate edges on the axe, the bloodletter's horns, wing fingers... same intensity and direction.

>>49633812
Mix some sand with pebbles and flakes of slate

Apply a larger pebble or slate to the base with super glue

Put some extra super glue on the base, sprinkle you San mix. If you have a larger pebble, try to put some sand near it.

Then cover the rest of the base in super glue and sprinkle baking soda. The result is a rough surface with a very fine grain which to scale looks like sand or dirt. Rinse off excess baking soda.

The problem with pure sand is to scale with your model it looks wrong, like they are standing on very coarse gravel. Baking soda works great.

>>49635278
I've never read good things about these and none of the photos I've seen have turned out well.

You can buy paints online surely?

>>49633812
PVA glue, flock or grass packs from GW, job done.
Maybe a couple of slate bits on for variation