WIP Work In Progress General

File: SkypePhoto_20160606_21_34_59.jpg (42KB, 360x480px) Image search: [Google]

42KB, 360x480px

Just finished this barb. Sorry for fingies and no box.

>>47657998
You can fingy my box.

>>47657998
Fuck you for not evsn trying to take a decent photo. The model looks good,but i can't tell if his right leg is chalky. It looks textured

>The topic "Dakka Modeling FAQ: How to Strip" does not currently exist.

>>47658108
Link works for me.

>>47658104
Yeh the skin is kinda fucked. I started him as an orc and changed my mind halfway through and shit all over it. I think its just too much paint, and yeh mah bois leg has a chalky look because. Good eye. Thanks tho :)

File: Brother Craig.jpg (585KB, 1417x489px) Image search: [Google]

585KB, 1417x489px

Tried my hand at making a plastic Brother Craig for my Blood Angels tac squad. I'll probably adjust his left arm so he's holding it closer.

>>47658203
Fuckin'a this is so cool! Right on man!

>>47658108
Op didn't work for me to, does this work for you?
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

File: DSC_0220.jpg (3MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3840x2160px

Just finished my first vehicle. Yeah I know the lighting sucks, can't take a better pic right now. It's a start.

>>47659012
Lighting's alright, it's the angle that is a bit off.
Also, thin your paints and remember wash / highlight.

File: DSC_0221.jpg (3MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3840x2160px

>>47659046
Thinned my paint, applied 7 layers of yellow and STILL got the undercoat showing and brush streaks. Any tips for a noobie?

Also HURR SPEHSS ELFES LIKE DA PENUS!!1!

>>47659012
THIN

>>47659116
get an airbrush.

srsly. if you wanna paint yellow, get a fucking airbrush. no other way around.

>>47659116
If you're painting that yellow on top of black overcoat, that's your problem. Use brown to bring the colour closer to yellow first. That way you don't have to put on so many layers.

>>47659145
Fuck. If I'd known this I wouldn't have gone Iyanden. Buggery shite and dagnabbit. Ah well, thanks for the info.

>>47659146
Thanks, I'll give this a try on the next one.

>>47659116
You can airbrush the yellow like >>47659145
suggested, but how ive been doing it to my imperial fists for great results is to base it a light bone color, including the shades and highlights and glaze it with lamenters yellow a few times.

>>47659200
>>47659145
>>47659146
Not the original guy, but how does an airbrush differ in terms of applying the paint and the technique from a regular rattle can? I've got a few bigger vehicles I really don't want to hand paint since there's no spray colour for it and I hear you can do move advanced stuff with an airbrush.

>>47659241
You can control how much paint is sprayed on an area and that means you can control the shade. It also requires a lot less paint to cover up a model. Paint blends better, too.

What colour base coats do you prefer for general use?

For years I have been using green since my guardsmen are green and so it was easier to just start out with a colour that was gonna cover 90 of the model, the majority of the second colour being a darker green. Likewise I've been basecoating SM in whatever colour made up the majority of their armour and blue and grey for the other IG regiment I have been slowly starting.

After so long I have completely lost touch of what is a good colour for a general base coat, black or white? Remember what a bitch it seemed to be to properly coat green over black before just base coating green has turned me off black, but white base coat seems like something most people have stepped away from.

What are the pros and cons of either and what would you recommend? It's for a handful of infinity models, so lots of small bits and few large areas.

>>47659648
>What are the pros and cons of either and what would you recommend?
It depends on your painting style and the colors you are using.

If you are a fan of bold blacklining and stark contrasts, use layering primarily or use dark colors go with black.
If you prefer using washes, tints, glazes have very bright colors or just prefer shading over highlighting in general go with white.

>>47659648
Gray, all day erry day.

I'm a lazy fuck, so when I prime I just do gray with either Mechanicus or Dawnstone for basecoats. After that, it's just working on individual areas for what I want.

Infinity is gonna be harder than guard and marines if you want to do them full justice. If you want a lighter shade, which i've seen as the norm for infinity, definitely play it safe and go gray if you're not sure about your skill.

/WIP/ I need a new project to work on. I do 40K and 30K armies in batches, so whatever I do is going to be worth about a months time. Are wracks fun to paint?

>>47659739
>>47659897
Aight, thanks, I'll keep this in mind.

I haven't currently decided on a paint scheme yet, so it's still up in the air. I might go for the grey idea since it jives with my tendency to be an indecisive cunt.

File: 1465269772023.jpg (606KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

606KB, 2048x1152px

reposting my first mini, completed it last night.

>>47659116
yeah the same tips as last time that you've clearly ignored in favour of screaming.
so, why would anyone waste any more time?

>>47659145
bullshit. you airbrush kiddies need to ditch that crutch for a year. yellow is easy. you're just to scared to try and learn.

>>47659171
if only someone had told you to base brown when painting yellow in the last thread. with a big wall of repetitive text. if only.

>>47660214
Not bad. Do you own a wash (something like nuln oil or agrex earthshade)? It would do a lot for the metal bits.

File: 1465269580107.jpg (603KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

603KB, 2048x1152px

>>47660273
I do own Agrax Earthshade, and I did put a layer of it on the guy. Only put one because I was worried about making it look like "Oh god please save me, wash, please?"

>Supposed to let shade dry for 20 minutes
whoops

>>47660428
Over load of metalics can really look odd if you're not able to add depth to it.

If you have more paints try doing one with less metals.

>>47660977
I was thinking of trying to do ceramic on the next guys body. Something kind of bone colored on the faces of the armor, reddish brown edge highlights. Probably paint the body of the gun black too.

Im going to spend so much fucking money on this hobby.

Hi guys,i am pretty new and i didn't understand why people always highlight with the proper colour. I made a model which i based sotek green and highlighted genestealer purple in some areas and based xereus purple and highlighted temple guard blue. I really liked the result(can't make a photo,shit light because of rain). Is there a particular reason why i should avoid this? Or do people just tend to go for a more sensible and realistic scheme?(it's for some tzeentch marines so being silly is very ok,that's why i tried)

>>47661051
>Im going to spend so much fucking money on this hobby.
yeah well miniature gaming is no hobby for cheap ones.

File: line highlighting eldar iybraesil final.jpg (57KB, 800x778px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 800x778px

>>47661288
By highlight you mean making an area pop out? Like the pic here is a highlighted blue.

OR do you mean having the secondary color of the model be an off color? Like if it was a space marine the trim on his shoulder or knee pads would be a different color. Because it sounds like you mean this.

If it is the prior, it's because it objectively looks like shit to highlight in an off color.

If the former, you are using the word "highlighting" wrong and this technique is incredibly common.

File: IMG_3630.jpg (211KB, 880x907px) Image search: [Google]

211KB, 880x907px

>>47661310
>>47661288
To expand. I'm assuming you're talking about making the whole one color and splashing a second or third color. Like the purple and pink on the Genestealer.

>>47661310
No i mean proper highlighting,i don't know, i like it a lot, i guess i will post mini as soon as the sun comes back so that you can meme me.

>>47661349
Don't take this the wrong way, but that sounds fucking awful.

>>47661310
>>47661336
>>47661349

He means line highlighting using a completely different colour; i.e, a blue model with red edge highlights only.

>>47661367
I didn't expect people to like it anyway

File: Ajax-Class-Cruiser-1.jpg (68KB, 639x426px) Image search: [Google]

68KB, 639x426px

So question - I want a nice, bright hot-rod red color for my PHR, once these get released. In the interest of taking the easy way out, is there any spray paint you folks know about that could get me a nice, glossy red for the carapace sections of pic related? My usual go-to line of spray paints is lacking, in this regard.

File: 99120102020_TerminatorLordNEW_01.jpg (42KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

42KB, 600x620px

Does a good CSM sculpt exist to create a somewhat unique Chaos Lord? I'm looking to create a small warband and want to convert a distinct leader that doesn't look like Kranon or every other Terminator Lord. The only good HQ sculpts seem to be the aspiring champion and pic related.

What do you guys paint on the little banner things on Space Marines. I try to write gothic words but they always come out poorly. Anyone have any advice for it?

File: dick.jpg (982KB, 2831x1557px) Image search: [Google]

982KB, 2831x1557px

>>47659116
What the fuck man

>>47661695
0.05 liner pigment marker.

>>47661691
I made mine out of a combination of a vanilla marine, chaos marine, khorne zerk, fantasy chaos knight helmet, and a dark elf lance with nid claw for his scythe.

Marines are so modular you can kitbash all sorts of stuff really easily. Conversions and sculpting is really basic too because all their limbs are destinct parts.

Terminators are very similar you dhould be able to whip something up with the basic dudes.

>>47661691
Just mash around bits from the terminator kits too.

That terminator kit is solid for kit bashing something good.

File: gw Black_Legion_Chaos_Terminator_Lord.gif (24KB, 236x234px) Image search: [Google]

24KB, 236x234px

>>47661691
>Does a good CSM sculpt exist
>somewhat unique Chaos Lord
Sounds like you'll have to convert something if you want to be truly unique anyway.
There used to be a metal model a while back that was sold with a weapon arm that didn't even make it into the codex.
I think that was a pretty fresh take on a termi character.
Sometimes he pops up on ebay still. Wasn't around too long so he's somewhat special.

You could of course also use any Space Marine character as conversion fodder. Space Wolves have this one guy that is bigger than most other space marines. If you switch his head for something chaotic you are already off to a good start imo.
I remember a WD article with a Slaanesh lord armed with two clubs made from pearls, that was converted from Logan Grimnar body and had a minotaur head.

>>47661763
Krom?

He has way too much wolf shit all over him.

>>47661713
The driver's looking at porn instead of focusing on his job. Gonna get yelled at by my farseer when she finds out.

File: gw 99800101022_ArjacRockfistNEW01.jpg (46KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

46KB, 600x620px

>>47661786
Nah, Krom doesn't wear termi armor.
I meant this guy.
If you picture him with different weapons and another paintjob, he could almost pass as chaos lord as is.

I forgot the ridiculous pricetag on that thing though.
I guess you could kitbash something similar with the regular plastic SW termi kit though.

File: IMG_20160607_165618.jpg (1MB, 4160x3120px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 4160x3120px

This couatl is going to be F A B U L O U S

>>47661691
well, what kind of lord are you looking for? Nurgle, khorne, Slaanesh, Tzeentch or undivided?

>>47661735
>>47661750
>>47661763
>>47661918
Thanks anons, I have a pretty huge loyalist bitbox, I might see what I can slap together.

It's going to be an undivided Lord which i'll go to town with using the BaC wordbearers transfers. I'm impartial to Terminator armour or power armour, but the Terminators, Terminator Lord and CSM squads look like a weird mix of bland and dated next to the DV chosen minis.

I'm currently going to try converting a bolter chosen, but i'm wondering how to make him look like a Lord instead of a fancy Chosen conversion.

>>47662033
>but the Terminators, Terminator Lord and CSM squads look like a weird mix of bland and dated next to the DV chosen minis.
Well, the DV minis, the chaos champion and the plastic raptor kit are going in slightly different directions stylistically.

However if you compare them to 2nd edition metal minis, you'll find that they fit together pretty well.
Maybe you can kitbash something with the parts from the plastic raptors and the DV guys.

>>47660428
I don't know if hmthis is a multipose mini, but right now, he's a mile away from correctly using those sights. . .

File: hugemarine.jpg (3MB, 3842x1979px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3842x1979px

>>47662033
>look like a weird mix of bland and dated next to the DV chosen minis

Sounds to me like you should check out evil craft.

>>47662146
Looks like a Reaper Bones scifi dude.

>>47662087
> Raptors
By the dark gods you're right, now that I stop to look at them again there are some sick sweet bits to mix with Calth mkIV.

Thanks a bunch anon!

does anyone have a guide on how to do camp like painting on smaller models?, model in question is a tau fire warrior.

>>47662238
Camo*, and I'm talking grey/dark blues urban camo.

File: chaos marine champion raptor conversion.jpg (49KB, 873x627px) Image search: [Google]

49KB, 873x627px

>>47662226
glad to help
been goofing around in ps a little.
Raptor body with a headswap and different backpack.

File: camo tank painting guid IG.pdf (1B, 486x500px)

1B, 486x500px

>>47662238
>>47662247
Maybe this will give a few ideas.
I'd start either with white or the medium grey, apply the other one and then put the dark paint last.
Simply because dark paints tend to cover bright paints better than the other way around.
Notable exception here, if you just paint dots in white on top of black or something like that. That will look okay. But larger surfaces end up splotchy unless you go over them more than once.

Then to finish it up i'd wash over it. If the washes out of the box are too dark, just add some medium to thin them out.

>>47662268
You put your right foot in...

>>47662201
That it is. Rubbery little bastards deformed

File: 20160607_175249.jpg (3MB, 4128x2322px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4128x2322px

loremaster wip
not satisfied at all but at least it's something
how do I paint a stars cloak?

>>47658539
yes

File: 1261417991005.png (322KB, 720x400px) Image search: [Google]

322KB, 720x400px

Currently working on my Knight and almost done.

However the gun is torn in my side, I want it to stand out, the rest of the knight is semi rusty so I want the gun to stand out just a tad.

I wanted a Burned overused-under maintained look, however every single miscoloured metal guide is for airbrushes by the looks of it such as:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgJIuJ8a_8k

Anyone got any good ideas or guides for painting large gun barrels without an airbrush?

>>47662418
>green
>red
>blue
>purple
Hmm.

Hey /wip/, newfag with a handful of questions.

What're the best brushes a person should pick up when just starting out?

Are you supposed to prime and then glue, glue and then prime, and if an arm is obstructing a torso or something, do you not attach it until the very end?

How fine a file do I need?

If I use acetone to strip a model, should I remove the base first, or resign myself to the fact that I'll need to buy a new one?

>>47662524
>If I use acetone to strip a model, should I remove the base first, or resign myself to the fact that I'll need to buy a new one?
acetone melts plastic.
So if your models are metal you are fine. If they are any other material you'll also have to buy a new model.
Wether or not to save the base is up to you anyway. Do you need it or do you have enough spares?

>>47662546
This is for Infinity, the models are metal.

And spares aren't expensive, I don't mind losing it, I just wanted to know what standard operating procedure is.

>>47662580
Well, as I said it's up to personal preference.
My personal check list goes something like
>how hard is it to remove the base?
>can I reuse the base?
>do I risk damaging the mini?
>how easy is it to replace?

Biggest consideration for me usually is damaging the mini, since over the years I've collected tons of spare bases, and most of the stuff I strip is usually nothing special or worth saving anyway.

>>47660262
And thanks again broski, but this is the same model. I didn't do a wash because I didn't have any brown. But if I can trouble you for some details, you say Base in brown; do you mean brown onto the raw plastic, or onto a primer? If latter, white or black? Also, which stage do I wash at, before details/highlights etc, or after? Thanks in advance, I'm trying this stuff on the next model.

>>47662490
Anyone?

>>47658203
What you might wish to do is lightly incline his head forward to make it look like he's listening, as well as slightly carving out the top of the right eye. If you look at Jonny, his funny look comes from that eye piece so ever slightly raised that make it look like he's raising his right eyebrow.

File: IMG_1385_resize.jpg (368KB, 979x1306px) Image search: [Google]

368KB, 979x1306px

>>47662801
you could try doing it with several layers of a wash. tried it once with a jet exhaust.

File: Containers 07 - 50pct.jpg (240KB, 898x2410px) Image search: [Google]

240KB, 898x2410px

>>47657731
Added a more sturdy support pipe T to better support the reservoir tank array on the back and readded the ladders as they were previously in the way.
Almost ready to base and paint!

>>47663318
Is that bit in front of the ladder and the oil drums the ass end of a Y-wing engine?

File: Containers 08 - Sorcerer for Scale - 50pct.jpg (66KB, 900x593px) Image search: [Google]

66KB, 900x593px

>>47663318
Added a mesh filter to the bottom of the out spout and took a pic with a Sorcerer for scale.

>>47663431
I don't think so, but I don't know where it is from, it was just in my bitz box.

>>47659897
I found that Infinity is actually way easier to paint than i anticipated. The gadgets, fabric folds and doo-dads kind of lend themselves to painting. I struggled to get cloths to look realistic due to how flat the "material" was but all the folds and wrinkles make it easier to pick up and high light the right details in the right place

File: Rubber_Swordsman.png (1MB, 849x857px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 849x857px

My Skorne swordsman.
Im struggling with getting the cloth and the bone horns to look right.
Pointers?

File: gargoyle collage.png (2MB, 632x1892px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 632x1892px

Started working on my gargoyles. One down, 29 to go. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, not sure if i want to attempt to feather/outline the carapace or just leave it bone.

Thoughts?

>>47662490
You can do almost the same thing with glazes and washes. Takes a bit more skill and patience to get smooth transitions but the end result is the same.

>>47663628
Leave it bone.

>>47663627
Why didn't you fix that sword?

File: 20160607_191707.jpg (505KB, 861x721px) Image search: [Google]

505KB, 861x721px

WIP tankbusta, test model painted in a few hours so far with one of his friends.

>>47658203
drill where the bolter was. make it look like there is somewhere for it to feed into.

>>47663854
I was overly eager to get started and didnt know the hot water trick

>>47664030
fix it now then faggot. Fucking dildo skorne.

File: Containers 09 - 50pct.jpg (131KB, 900x1341px) Image search: [Google]

131KB, 900x1341px

>>47663482
Added some skulls and my sand mix to the bases.

>>47664090
I'm my experiance, rubber weapons some how seem to be more deadly.
I remember the dice gods really favouring Rubber Lances years ago, those knights kicked all kinds of ass with their wobbly weapons

File: mal.jpg (36KB, 500x375px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 500x375px

Anyone ever bought 40k stuff off of ebay, specifically stores selling from china? I'm eyeing a brood of malanthropes and i've seen other forge world models for way cheaper than normal but I'm afraid their going to be shitty Chinese knock offs that don't look right or assemble correctly.

>>47664397
If they're from China, Russia, or Eastern Europe they're almost certainly recasts. The problem with that is if you just go to a recaster you can get them cheaper, and usually a better cast than ebay stuff.

>>47664206
Are the alu cans stuck in yet?

It might be worth hitting those with a primer that will specifically stick to them before you prime the whole thing.

Paint comes off alu really easily.

>>47664420
got any recommended recasters? i really want 3 malanthropes but don't want to drop 150+ paying forge world prices but i also dont want them to look like ass.

>>47664425
The 3 together can be removed fairly easily, but not so much the solo can.
I'll remove those 3 and hit them separate and see how it goes.

>>47657731
That's a pretty comfy painting workshop! :3 I like the sorted colour tins.

>>47664397
made a cusdodies. my little kitten is great.

File: dutch ogre.jpg (655KB, 896x1968px) Image search: [Google]

655KB, 896x1968px

>>47657731
are these shoulder pads to big for a bloodbowl pad?

wanted to make some dutch ogres.

>>47664541
Thanks! I feel I am very productive in this space.
Surround speakers for music, or blue tooth headphones for podcasts while I work.
I was hesitant to add the larger screen beside the portrait monitor, but it's soooo good!
Will my productivity increase or decrease? We shall see!

>>47664459
r/yoyhammer That's about all I can spoonfeed you. Anything else you have to browse there for or a quick google search.

>>47663482
it appears to be the back section of an engine from a y wing fighter.

Specifically, it is from an Action Fleet y-wing, a series of discontinued micro-figure star wars toys.

I have one in storage.

>>47664771
that would make sense. we used to have some of those kicking around back in the day

Seems like the most on-topic place to ask..

How do you guys clean off your miniatures?

I like to keep my models posed on display when they're not in use, and over time they get dusty. I've tried cleaning them off before, but as one of my armies is Dark Eldar, it gets kind of hairy with their more fragile parts. Any tips on making my models look like they don't belong in a museum?

File: dutch.jpg (549KB, 812x1920px) Image search: [Google]

549KB, 812x1920px

>>47664573
another example

>>47664863
Keep them in a display case, or use compressed air regularly.

>>47664863
compressed air, extra soft brush

>>47664397
Recaster shit on Ebay isn't that bad, from my experience. I got a bunch of Medusan Immortals, Morlocks, and the MK III IH armor through them instead of FW and everything was pretty much perfect, besides the occasional bend which was fixed by hot water

>>47664904
>>47664692
Thanks guys.

File: 20160607_153821-800x450.jpg (83KB, 800x450px) Image search: [Google]

83KB, 800x450px

Hood came out nice

>>47662359

More like

THIS FOOT, YOUR ASS

>>47664883
The size is fine but it doesn't fit the rest of the model. You have dirty old rusty plates and super refined shoulder pads. It's a clash of styles.

>>47663482

>red bull gives you wings

Huehuehuehue

File: wedsaf.jpg (588KB, 909x682px) Image search: [Google]

588KB, 909x682px

High impact imperial violence

thanks to the anon who suggested me this color for the trenchcoat, i love it and i will use it for my whole army, steel legion guys and not.

>>47664883
>>47664573

It's a little big but I like it. A belly shield would be better but where the f- are you going to find those

I need some advice how to put the IF round decal on a spacemarine shoulder pad ...i keep struggling with it so that it is ruining my miniatures

>>47659145
I really need to get an airbrush that I can use outside.

>>47665442
How do you create those tiny pins under the feet?

>>47665556
those are part of the sprue, people at forgeworld are intelligent enough to inject the rasin from there.

buuut you can use metal wire, toothpicks or something similiar and glue them to the feet.

>>47665593
Thanks.

File: MDF Boards 01 - 50pct.jpg (72KB, 750x1171px) Image search: [Google]

72KB, 750x1171px

>>47664206
Just cutting some more 1'x1' MDF tiles for MORE TERRAIN!

Anyone got some kitbashed Librarians I could see? Need some ideas.

>>47665658
how about a Sorcerer Lord?

>>47665646
any suggestions for my next terrain project?

>>47665787
I play SM but sure, why not.

Whats a good way to practice painting?

I probably have a good 80 unpainted minis because I don't want to trash them with my 4 year old tier painting

File: 2016-05-21 21.24.55-cropped.jpg (2MB, 1250x1563px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1250x1563px

>>47665861

>>47665805
when in doubt, build a church.

>>47665902
buy 3 packs of SMs or CSMs from Gdubs.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Space-Marines

what airbrush should i use? i want somthing avalable in the UK, cheap, and not a total asshat to set up. being compatable with Citadel Air would be nice too.

File: 54h7wil.jpg (75KB, 1248x1248px) Image search: [Google]

75KB, 1248x1248px

King of crows, brother of wolves

File: 2016-06-07 17.01.19-50pct.jpg (69KB, 750x1000px) Image search: [Google]

69KB, 750x1000px

>>47666003
Alrighty then!

File: trenches01 - 50pct.jpg (50KB, 750x1000px) Image search: [Google]

50KB, 750x1000px

>>47665805

I think I will go ahead and make a trench network

>http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Building_Warmachine_Trench_Terrain_Templates

File: image.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

I usually work on a 2' x 2' wooden board, that I can move around where ever I want to work. I have a hobby desk as well but it is too cluttered most times.

>>47665931
>that wonky-ass arm

>>47665902
There is a stripping guide in the op, just go for it

>>47666142
also apparently pillager of graves,
poor skelly will miss his spear when he wakes up

>>47666142
What model is that based on?

>>47666127
Iwata neos are designed for beginners but are good quality. Pick up a gravity feed one. Citadel paints suck but if you thin them properly they will airbrush okay. Make sure you find a suitable cleaner and WATCH HOW TO CLEAN VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE. Other wise you will clog your brush and end up a miserable shit when you have to send it off to be prepared for your stupidity.

File: ahazra.jpg (82KB, 500x449px) Image search: [Google]

82KB, 500x449px

>>47665658
Crap picture, but here's Ahazra Redth, the Mantis Warriors' named Librarian and acting Chapter Master

>>47666688
>MKIV Librarian

Anon, I love you.

>>47666649
Are the Citadel Air paints thinned enough for airbrushing or do they need to be thinned even more for some reason?

File: trenches02 - 50pct.jpg (82KB, 750x1065px) Image search: [Google]

82KB, 750x1065px

>>47666374
mapping the trenches out

>>47666750
No idea as I don't use them but you always want thinner. I like Valleyo air paints and the airbrush paints I still thin 50% more to make them spray better. It's something you have to learn but 99% of the time you're going to be adding thinner.

>>47666810
Good to know.

And my word, the compressor looks like it's the expensive part of this endeavor.

>>47666845
I spent like £300 on my set up a few years back. I got an Iwata bundle and it's worked since then so I've not got a complaint.

>>47666922
Oh, I'm not complaining, I'm just surprised at the cost of the compressor compared to the Neo.

>>47666688
Checked. How many aquilas are even on that guy?

>>47666996
Neos are a budget brush designed for beginners. You can get $10 Chinese ones from ebay but you can guess the quality of those. The only flaw in the Neos is the springs not stainless steal like other Iwata brushes (they're made for Iwata by a third party). It won't make any real difference as long as you can clean your shit properly.

>>47665473
Look up Duncan's tutorial on painting a space marine, he explains how to apply transfers. And watch the whole thing while you're at it, you might learn some stuff.

>>47667048
Sounds good. I'll save up and get one for myself as a "congrats you're 21 and not dead yet" birthday gift.

File: IMG_20160226_142124_resize.jpg (320KB, 730x1280px) Image search: [Google]

320KB, 730x1280px

>>47666922
for miniature hobby purposes a 100USD compressor and an Iwata neo are more then enough. just make sure to get a compressor with an air tank.

>>47661288
Tzeentch marines aren't silly, I'm not sure where you got that impression

my brother gave me a box filled with poorly painted units.. Some of them have been abit overprimed, others just painted like shit.

I've read online how to remove the paint but I wanted to ask fa/tg/uys what products would be best to strip the paint so I can refurbish these guys and paint them how I want? I've always wanted to get started and I'm pretty hyped to start painting.

>>47667374
Didn't it even occur to you to ctrl f for answer or even just check the op?

>>47667348
I didn't mean silly as in stupid ,just strange, sorry for the miswording

File: HG-144-Gundam-SEED-Ginn-Battle-Damage03.jpg (670KB, 900x1200px) Image search: [Google]

670KB, 900x1200px

>>47667285
Agreed.

>>47667374
I like Biostrip 20 but it will melt the shit out of some plastics.

File: tarlok.jpg (108KB, 533x682px) Image search: [Google]

108KB, 533x682px

Finally painting some of my Infinity dudes. Decided to do my Morat up in the 'tarlok hunting' scheme from the book. So far I've blocked out the base colors, and today I decided to work on the blue. I think it came out pretty good!

>>47661051
you don't have lights in your house?

So I have a WIP dreadnought (light in my room is shitty and the paintjob is like, 40% done, so no pic), but those things are a fucking dream to highlight. It's good to practice on, seeing as I'm new to highlighting and still use the edge of my brush

>>47668214
DAMN! I actually wouldn't mind painting a medal model if it was that detailed. GW's metal minis look like fucking blobs.

>>47668523
Nice. I can't find the right consistency to do my highlights and the paint just fucking beads up on the surface.

>>47668657
I barely thin my paints to highlight (dreadnought guy), but as, like I said, I'm really new to highlighting, no clue if that's the proper way to do it

>>47668708
>>47668657
need to thin your paints until its not too thick anymore but also not too watery -> so it still covers properly, but leaves a smooth surface.
There are different techniques to highlighting, but basic highlight is - Color || Lighter shade of that color on the edges. It can depend on your style how big the contrast is going to be between these two colours.
Also, if you are new painters, you need to learn how to handle the paint so its the right consistency at all times. Different techniques require different consistencies. What I do is, I always test the paint on my skin (finger). It doesn't soak up water from the bush (like if you are testing it on a piece of tissue) and gives you a very accurate representation about the consistency of the paint. If you think your paint is too thick, you can try working with more watered layers. It might not cover as well as the not thinned paint, but will give you better result over time. From there, you can progress with practice and experiment.

>>47666776

I've always wanted to make a full-on trench terrain board, either for 40K or warmachine. Would be a lot of fun to make and play around on.

File: WP_20160608_005.jpg (2MB, 3072x1728px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3072x1728px

WIP knight questor from ST. Too much white light and takes all of my details away, but that's all I have right now.

File: squad_vincent_beekee_large01.jpg (139KB, 916x1241px) Image search: [Google]

139KB, 916x1241px

>>47658203

That's absolutely gorgeous!

>>47663992
>drill where the bolter was. make it look like there is somewhere for it to feed into.

I was thinking it would be perfect to use an Umbra-pattern bolter rather than a Phobos-pattern bolter ... but those might be hard to come by!

>>47668551

Pick up some Infinity then to paint up! Most of the range is absolutely gorgeous, other than a couple of the really, really old models (looking at you, Kazaks and Szalamandra)

>>47668214
Looking good, CA scum.

I'm looking for legs that are about the same scale as ogre bulls' but a bit skinnier. Golgfag's mercenaries from way back are pretty perfect but crazy expensive. Does anyone know anything else that might be about the same scale?

>>47669583
I would love to, but I'm already on my 3rd 40k army and my group doesn't look like they'd want to play Infinity. I tried to gauge some interest in Malifaux and Frostgrave. One of the guys was kinda up for Frostgrave.

File: bits.jpg (550KB, 2430x1368px) Image search: [Google]

550KB, 2430x1368px

Giving this another shot, need suggestions on how I should equip out a banner bearer guy/ which banner to go with as well as which head to put on the calth guy. I was thinking of putting the wings behind the helmet crest of the standard helmet but I dunno, maybe I'll go with the bare one.

File: beekee_with_umbra_bolter.jpg (467KB, 1088x1468px) Image search: [Google]

467KB, 1088x1468px

>>47669447
>Umbra-pattern bolter

Better picture of Umbra bolter lad.

File: magnus.jpg (32KB, 344x574px) Image search: [Google]

32KB, 344x574px

>>47657731

Is it still canon that Magnus was a huge mofo, or is he just a regular sized red Joe now?

File: back_banners.jpg (257KB, 1280x802px) Image search: [Google]

257KB, 1280x802px

>>47661695
>What do you guys paint on the little banner things on Space Marines.

Chapter insignia, or personal heraldry if it's someone important.

>I try to write gothic words but they always come out poorly. Anyone have any advice for it?

Lissen ta >>47661719. Sakura pens are awesome for this.

>>47670121
He's always been a big guy

File: 1465350499974.jpg (533KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

533KB, 2048x1152px

Alright. Day 2 means mini 2. Tried to se what would happen if I thinned out Dawnstone to try and highlight with it, since its currently my lightest paint. Bad idea.

Flat pallete + twisting my tip helped immensely

File: 1465350900071.jpg (508KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

508KB, 2048x1152px

>>47670713

>>47669984

Well I didn't mean really as a game (Though it is pretty awesome and fun to play), I just meant if you like the models, you can pick one or two up to paint and admire. They're only about $10-15 for the small, normal line troops.

>>47670990
I might consider it sometime. They are lovely models. But I have a whole Dark Eldar army to paint.

Would it look alright if I used cokeacola bottle caps as bases for post-apoc minis? Or would I never escape LUL FALLOUT

Would a bottle cap tear up a battlegrid?

>>47671334
Use liquid green stuff to fill in the "gaps" and smooth out the bottom.

File: P5270197.jpg (385KB, 1824x1368px) Image search: [Google]

385KB, 1824x1368px

here's an iguana and jager I just *tentatively* finished, 1st time painting anything inorganic.

>>47671457
should have looked this over a little more carefully before I posted... so many glaring errors once you get up that close.
Oh well, I'll post again once I finish the squad...
anyone else working on HG blitz, etc or is it just a bunch of GW fags in this thread?

File: 1412816707442.jpg (14KB, 360x256px) Image search: [Google]

14KB, 360x256px

>>47665931
Nice paintjob
Cannot unsee upside-down thumb

Is the P3 white primer any good? I just tried using the Army Painter Daemonic Yellow today...and either it's splotchy and thick or I just fucking suck, either way I decided to paint yellow the old fashioned way and stop being a lil bitch.

>>47671743
no thumbs are upside down

>>47670750
Better than the first.
Still some brush control issues, you can see a few spots when you've got paint places it shouldn't be.

>>47672732
Are you talking about the little bands around his legs?

Because I actually had a bitch of a time trying to paint it in one coat so that the black of the primer could still be used as a color, since I don't have black paint yet (will be fixed tomorrow)

File: charlie company~01.jpg (778KB, 2560x1440px) Image search: [Google]

778KB, 2560x1440px

All non-perry skeletons are weaponized now

>>47672892
That looks like a lot of tedious shit.

>>47672932
Imagine doing it 218 times to table+ quality. Fuck man i still have like 100+ gems to do and silvering arm bangles. To top it all off i may have ordered... 200 more...

>>47672892
>YOU MIGHT SAY THAT BEFORE THEIR ARMAMENT WAS VERY BARE BONES
>RATTLERATTLERATTLERATTLE

File: 1464564706080.png (72KB, 271x152px) Image search: [Google]

72KB, 271x152px

>>47673132

File: ss+(2016-06-08+at+01.16.13).jpg (33KB, 451x214px) Image search: [Google]

33KB, 451x214px

I'm going to be starting on a VC Hellsteed conversion soon and I came upon these wings while looking at old threads from some forum I don't remember. I can't for the life of my identify what they're from, any ideas?

File: 1458082887374.jpg (184KB, 1280x1280px) Image search: [Google]

184KB, 1280x1280px

>>47657731

I know she got a proper artist's job at Forge World but does Savage Orc anon paint at all anymore? Haven't seen any updates on her blog in a while since she did her Tzeentch greater daemon.

>>47673308
>I can't for the life of my identify what they're from, any ideas?

Well, those aren't classic Space Marine bitz, but I'd guess ... plastic WHFB Vampire Counts Vargheists / Crypt Horrors wings?

>>47673451
holy shit I'm retarded

thanks man

File: trenches03 - 50pct.jpg (92KB, 750x1000px) Image search: [Google]

92KB, 750x1000px

>>47666776
>>47669375
Skipped a bunch of step-pics, but here are the tiles all cut out with 1" of polystyrene hot glued on and then the edges cut at a rough 45 degree angle on all the outsides.

Now to build the inner parts of the trench (floors and walls).
Any suggestions?

>>47673308

Vampire Counts Zombie Dragon / Terrorgheist - probably a bit big for a horse size model; maybe check out vargheists, probably better sized.

File: HirstArtsLightTest.jpg (160KB, 780x1040px) Image search: [Google]

160KB, 780x1040px

Using some Hirst Arts molds to build some dungeon tiles for D&D. I wanted to get some "realistic" lighting for kicks. I cast the molds with Durham's Water Putty. It takes forever to cure, but it's drillable once it does. I cast the blocks and built the walls, took a Dremmel tool and punched some holes in the sides before I put the sconces on. The lights are LEDs connected to coin batteries so I can change the torchlight depending on the dungeon.

>>47673807
whats the point of numbering them ?

>>47674116

not him, but it's so you can plot out variations on paper and put it together easily

>>47674077
That's pretty fucking dope

anyone know were I might get some feminine looking heads for conversions in a 28mm scale? I can GS on some hair, but sculpting a face is way beyond me

>>47674449
http://www.statuesqueminiatures.co.uk/p/8774376/sma301-heroic-scale-female-heads.html
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/arcadian-heads-x11-female
Both sites have some different options.

>>47674505
>~15 USD shipped international from either outfit
this feels terrible for a single model conversion I've already spent 30 bucks on, but thanks for the help

File: 1464738468767.jpg (57KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

57KB, 640x480px

>>47662779
Sorry I'm late to the thread, but if you're still here, or anyone else needs some help painting yellow I've found success with the following:
Prime > Base Brown paint > Layer yellow paint.

It helps if you have a sandy brown paint to base, like a dessert brown colour, but it's possible to use a dark brown too.

If you are really having trouble, you can take some additional steps, but they are superfluous. The bottom example is way overkill, the thing to note is that your painting style might benefit from using some the additional steps, but there is no need to by six new paint pots.

Prime > Base dark brown > Full layer light sandy brown > Full layer dark yellow > Full layer medium yellow > Full layer bright yellow.

You may have to adjust the number of layers you do in each step, especially as the yellows get brighter, but it should be a sure fire way to paint yellow.

I have never used yellow glazes, but you may consider using them as a final step if you still encounter difficulty. Reaper has an HD range of paints (HD standing for high density pigment) that is technically used for basecoating, but can be helpful for layering yellow because of it's added pigment.

The yellows that I use are from the Vallejo Model Air / Game air range, and while you have to shake the bottles like mad, the yellows are pretty solid. Find what works for you, and good luck.

>>47674647
If only I had this post to guide me 4 years ago hive fleet WU would be finished and not posing for its ebay shots.

File: 1463607183687.jpg (826KB, 625x875px) Image search: [Google]

826KB, 625x875px

>>47662779

Also, if you're basing with a dark brown paint, the primer colour will matter a little less than it usually does. This is because dark colours mask the colours underneath them. Lighter browns will be influenced by the primer coat more than the darker browns.
The rule of thumb however is:
Black primer = a darker base colour.
White primer = a lighter base colour
The number of layers you use on a brown base coat also determines how much the primer effects your colour. So if the base looks too light or dark you can use more or fewer layers to accommodate.

Generally you wash before highlights. You may need to do one more layer of basecoat after a wash, if you want to return the model to it's original colour before the wash tinted it. Your wash will likely darken the model, as well as leave blotchy marks on the model where it dried on surfaces where you didn't want it. Highlighting after washing is useful so your highlight is brightest. However, you may want to wash after highlighting in order to tie in all of the colours. Because washes not only flow to the lowest parts of your model, but also tint the colours, it can tie in your base coats and highlights and make them look more uniform.

>>47674629
>>47674505
>>47674449

ended up buying some off ebay... I hope they turn out alright

how is that BJ's brush soap people go on about? I impulse bought some of that too, and it should arrive at the end of the week.

File: stuff.png (2MB, 1630x562px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1630x562px

Picked up some Venomthropes/Zoanthropes a day ago and started putting them together. Noticed the only things different are the tail and the chest piece on the left, otherwise have 6 models.

Looked into making molds and stuff. Buddy sent me a picture of half a box and told me he got his stuff at Michael's. Go there and get what's in the image.

Did I fuck it up? Looked up some videos on how to use this stuff, and while I'm confident I can make casts of the chest piece (it being flat on the bottom), I'm less sure I can make the tail unless it's standing up.

>>47671696
I'm waiting for the plastics to come out.

>>47669395
is this anything more than base coated? because it looks really basic

>>47675528
yeah, but as I said, the white light takes everything away. Will do a better pic if it is finished.

>>47672892
what models are these? i want a big fucking skelly army but I cant find any third party models

File: _DSC1148.jpg (792KB, 2144x1424px) Image search: [Google]

792KB, 2144x1424px

WIP Stormsword, 90% done on airbrushing the green camo.

>>47675916
Apologies for the bad quality pic, my usual set up isn't used to such large models. I've really only done infantry pics before.

>>47675181
Liquid latex a shit for what you're trying to do. You want something from Smooth On:

https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Silicone-Making-Rubber-Inc/dp/B004BNF3TK/ref=pd_sim_201_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=517Fu0mqE-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR132%2C160_&refRID=8NTDR07NB3T3557AVHY1

You want to make some double sided molds. Oomoo 30 for your first few, then move on to some Mold Max when you're confident you're not going to blow materials making one.

>>47675814
GW skeletons and Perry Miniatures kit bashed. Zhanchui is currently filling in an order for me, going to see what his work is like

>>47675979
Thanks, after looking at some tutorials using that stuff, it definitely looks like what will solve the tail problem. Glad I kept my receipt for that stuff.

>>47667538
Was looking at Biostrip 20 myself. Is it safe for GW plastics? Got a bunch of old guardsmen I want to strip.

Anyone here ever work with the old kasrkin/stormtrooper models? I specifically want to make Kasrkins so I'm thinking of trying to track down those older models, how were they to work with compared to the newer Cadians/Scions?

File: shittypicwip.png (806KB, 842x443px) Image search: [Google]

806KB, 842x443px

WIP on my slaughtermaster, the base looks like this because I want him to looks like he's launching "The Maw" spell

It looked radical in my head, I hope I will make it as good as it's suposed to be

>>47676936

I bought 40 of the Kasrkin models off ebay recently for an Inquisitor project and while I like them, be warned that they come in one solid lump of metal, so the more you have the more identical twins you'll end up with.

Some bits are a little tricky to paint, like underneath the cables and the antennae on the backpacks like to snap off and fly into the void, but other than that they're solid and fairly simple to paint.

File: image.jpg (507KB, 1559x2461px) Image search: [Google]

507KB, 1559x2461px

Anything super glaring I should touch up before I move onto the base?

File: 99550105004_CadianSquadRespiratorUpgrade_Components.jpg (40KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]

40KB, 600x620px

>>47677000
Alright, cheers. I've been torn between converting regular Cadians but adding the FW respirator heads and backpack or just getting the older models. No idea how I'd get the hotshit lasguns for option A, though.

>>47677034

You could try bitz sellers for the Tempestus Scions hotshot guns, might not be worth it though. Beef up lasguns with plasticard and add your own cables?

There are so many potential marks of hotshot lasgun in the galaxy that I'm sure you could come up with something.

>>47677016
The eyes look a little flat; could use some glow to bring the focus in on the head

>>47674178
>>47674116
pretty much this

starting the innards now.
going to have a middle "granny grating" and card stock plank like the catwalk on the fuel canisters I was making earlier and the inner sides will be fleshed out with mesh, corrugated cardboard, plasticard and other random bitz and pieces.
Then sanded like my table on the outer slopes.
Should be fun!
The only problem with batch creating is... it's a lot of stuff at once! But, then again, you end up with lots of stuff at the end!

File: oop_stormtrooper_metal_lot.jpg (294KB, 1280x662px) Image search: [Google]

294KB, 1280x662px

>>47676936
>old kasrkin/stormtrooper models?
>how were they to work with compared to the newer Cadians/Scions?

Uh... they're not plastic?

>>47677560
any movie suggestions while I hobby?

File: Inherent Vice Poster.jpg (75KB, 648x960px) Image search: [Google]

75KB, 648x960px

>>47677577
Starting off with this anyway

File: pacific_rim_retro_50's_poster.jpg (343KB, 675x900px) Image search: [Google]

343KB, 675x900px

>>47675979
>You want to make some double sided molds. Oomoo 30 for your first few, then move on to some Mold Max when you're confident you're not going to blow materials making one.

Yeah, I don't know that we have the post count left in this thread to cover all this stuff. Double-sided molds are definitely the way to go for 99.9% of the things in here.

>>47677577
>any movie suggestions while I hobby?

Today, we face the monsters that are at our door ...

>>47677738
True, but moldmaking tutorials are literally everywhere. Making something useable isn't really rocket surgery.

>>47674077
How does water putty work for you. I use hydrocal and it breaks so much.

>>47677577
Check out old 70's-80's movies while you watch. Lair of the White Worm, Galaxy of Terror, Lifeforce and although a bit older, I can recommend the Hammer Frankenstein movies.

>>47677577
Hard Candy. I think it should be mandatory for every 4channer.

>>47678233
>4channer

don't do this

File: aobr_blood_angel_WIP02.jpg (611KB, 1628x1280px) Image search: [Google]

611KB, 1628x1280px

Man, P3's green ink does not kid about being green. I thought I would just wash over some green stuff (eyes and purity seals), and they are now as green as green can be!

>>47677577
demolition man

>>47677016

Can barely make any details out but the claws could use some smoothing

File: IMAG1169.jpg (606KB, 1780x1168px) Image search: [Google]

606KB, 1780x1168px

So, my Nurgle Hero for Warhammer quest is going along, still gotta finish off a few pieces - like the banding on his axe, for example. I still haven't been able to choose between the arms, so I'm gonna paint them both up and see which one I like the best as the end result.

thoughts so far?

>>47678342
don't do that.

we are on 4chan. You are a 4channer whether you like it or not. Faggot.

>>47678538
No, just anons.

File: forbin project.jpg (236KB, 960x1440px) Image search: [Google]

236KB, 960x1440px

>>47678190
This is a great oldie that should interest the scifi mind.

>>47678555
Look at this 4channer here getting his panties in a twist.

>>47678517
I'd probably try to differentiate the bib, buttflap and boots a little more. having all three the same colour looks a little odd.

>>47678576
>4channer

don't do this

>>47678576
Look at this here internetter not knowing how to address others properly.

Any advice for someone looking to get into the hobby? Looked up a few basic painting/assembling guides and such.

inb4 don't do drugs and paint your thins

>>47678769
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfToNrfoDh4

the painting guides done by GW are fairly good for beginners

>>47678555
But even tripfags should watch that movie.
Especially tripfags should watch that movie.

>>47678769
>inb4 don't do drugs
That's literally what it is though... Don't say we didn't warn you.

File: clean_hobby_desk.jpg (416KB, 1280x875px) Image search: [Google]

416KB, 1280x875px

>>47678769
>Any advice for someone looking to get into the hobby? Looked up a few basic painting/assembling guides and such.

Have nearby game or hobby store where they do this sort of thing? Ask the operators/patrons what they like or how they do it. Just be careful if that store is a Games Workshop/Warhammer store... not all of them are as above-board as the ones around here.

Buy something used or inexpensive to start painting on. Metal models are neat for this because if you don't like your results, you can get as tough as you want about stripping them and not have to worry about melting anything (except maybe your flesh!).

Buy real hobby paints for miniatures - P3, Citadel, Vallejo - do not waste your money on the cheap squeezy bottles of stuff at Michaels. They are not what you want to be putting on your models.

You *can* get decent brushes at Michaels, though. Especially for a beginner, you can find some affordable brushes for $4.00-$6.00 that should last you through your first few models if you treat them right. Don't walk in there unless the stuff is on sale or you have a coupon pulled up on your smartphone, though.

You might benefit from making yourself a wet palette (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM ) . If you're not ready to start at that level, a paper or plastic palette from Michaels will do for now until you can figure it out.

Working with plastic? Make sure you get a good pair of clippers to take bitz off da sprue. Get yourself a good, sharp hobby knife, and extra blades; I like the X-acto brand.

Working with metal or resin? Needle files are good. In some cases, you can use them on plastic, too.

Citadel sells an over-priced mold-line remover tool. I like it, but most people say it costs too much. Besides, you can use the back side of your X-acto knife to remove mold lines too. Just be careful not to slice your fingers.

A small drill or pin-vise along with a box of paper clips will help you pin models together when necessary.

File: Untitled.jpg (163KB, 701x491px) Image search: [Google]

163KB, 701x491px

How would I paint these bases with modern paints?
Would flock be better than sand?

>>47678799
Tripfags are merely anons who have lost their way.

>>47679318
That is really, really gay.

File: ae3.png (63KB, 830x900px) Image search: [Google]

63KB, 830x900px

>>47679318
>>>/b/
Back to your containment board

>>47679447
I haven't been on /b/ in 6 years

File: these_other_two_must_be_heretics.jpg (224KB, 1280x513px) Image search: [Google]

224KB, 1280x513px

>>47679217
>How would I paint these bases with modern paints?

Glue sand to base with PVA glue.
Paint with Warboss Green.
Drybrush on a mixture of Warboss Green and whatever yellow colour (Yriel Yellow, Flash Gitz Yellow, etc.) you have handy.
... and Bob's yer uncle.

>Would flock be better than sand?

Not if you want to duplicate that old 2nd Edition look exactly, no.

>>47678791
>>47678984
Aight, sounds good.

I took a quick look and seems the only FLGS around where I live deals only with MTG and rpgs. I'm not too far from the next city over where I'd have better luck, but would it be worth it to look around at any online retailers?

>>47678856
Don't tell me what to do, dad!

>>47673368
Can you link Savage Orc anon's blog? I forgot what it was called.

>>47680365
https://www.instagram.com/savage_ork_guy/
http://louisesugdenart.tumblr.com/

>>47673368
I'm sure she hasnt put away her brushes forever anon.

File: s-l1600.jpg (298KB, 1440x525px) Image search: [Google]

298KB, 1440x525px

>>47680015
>would it be worth it to look around at any online retailers?

See, here's da fing, boss:

You want to spend money at your FLGS so they don't go out of business and you can play games there. In your case, however, it doesn't look like you'll be doing that. Card trolls smell funny anyway. So, yes, there is a gigantic online community out there. Additionally, you'll find very quickly that online retailers can easily offer you discounts that brick & mortar places can't afford because of lower overhead and the ability to deal in secrecy.

eBay is great for buying that one model you need, or, in my case, a whole bunch of models you don't.

Bartertown might net you some good deals. It's mostly based in the US.

Facebook has buy/sell/trade all over the place.


>>47680365
>Can you link Savage Orc anon's blog? I forgot what it was called.

Not that anon, but yeah, I guess it couldn't hurt. Here's her tumblr:
http://louisesugdenart.tumblr.com/

File: 1424268493_dusche_ja.gif (1MB, 640x360px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 640x360px

Me and friends try to bring back RPG night and we want to try the dark eye. Can anyone share the rulebook?

>>47680669
this is for making things. not gameplay. make a thread, jackass.

>>47666142
Where is that head from?

>>47658203

Shave down the neck guard so you can tilt his head down towards his chest

Angle torso forward so he's hunching over (should be able to just pivot it on the ball joint)

>>47681052

Exalted Deathbringer with Impaling Spear

>>47681114
>Impaling Spear
This is so funny to me.
Wish the other would be called Exalted Deathbringer with smashy axe and punchy daggerfist.

>>47675916
Dude, drill the barrels on those heavy bolters.

The camo pattern itself looks good though.

>>47674647
My brother explained all of this to me when I was a kid. Only know I understand how lucky I was.

>>47665902

You can get a box of 30-40 historical minis for $30 or less (free shipping) from caliver books

Warlord games, Perry miniatures, gripping beast all in that price range, between those three companies you can choose any era based on what you want to practice — for uniforms pick napoleonic, American Revolution, Victorian British, or ww2 from Perry; for exposed skin, celts, Zulus or indians from warlord; for plate Armour/high medieval, hundred years war or war of the roses from Perry; for chainmail and hair, vikings or other early medieval from gripping beast or conquest games; for Cavalry, conquest, gripping beast and Perry have options in several eras.

Compared to GW they're dirt cheap, and they're a bit smaller so after learning how to paint on them, massive and exaggeratedly "heroic" GW minis will seem much easier by comparison

Watch St. Duncan of Rhodes videos and practice the techniques on the cheap figures until you feel confident to tackle the "collector's items"

>>47661649
Tamiya clear red over metallic or gold

>>47681301
>practice the techniques on the cheap figures until you feel confident to tackle the "collector's items"
Tbh I think that the perry minis are better than GW figs. The price isn't always a good indicator for quality especially if you compare historicals with pulp, sci-fi or fantasy ranges.

>>47678984
I've always been baffled by people using the back of the knife for mould line removal.
Why not just the blade? I've always done it that way.

>>47671818

I'm also in the market for non-GW white primer, was thinking about army painter

I've had bad experiences with white primer in the past (reason I switched to black in the early 2000s) but I'm painting ancient Greeks who mostly consist of white linen armor with bright/colourful accents (blue/red/yellow), skin, and bright/faded tunics, so I feel like I'm really wasting time building up to white from black primer with 4-6 coats of gradually lightening gray

>>47681388

I do too, but I didn't want to court too much controversy by saying so. I would rank historical plastics by sculpt quality: Perry>warlord/victrix>gripping beast>conquest games

With the caveat that all the producers have improved quality over time, so older ranges aren't as good. Warlord is particularly hit or miss

I suggested them for practice mostly due to price, better to ruin 40 Perry foot knights for $25 than to ruin 5 spess muhreenz for $30

File: duncanius_moorus.jpg (338KB, 1049x859px) Image search: [Google]

338KB, 1049x859px

>>47681301
>Watch St. Duncan of Rhodes videos and practice the techniques

Hail Duncan!

>>47681435
>I've always been baffled by people using the back of the knife for mould line removal.
>Why not just the blade? I've always done it that way.

It's the reason Citadel's mold-line scraper and other tools like it exists: it's phule-proof. When you use the front of your blade to scrape a plastic model, you risk cutting the model. Try this on a metal model, and you will surely ruin your blade. Use the Citadel scraper, and you won't cut or ruin anything, even if you slip. It just costs more and isn't good for anything else.

>I'm also in the market for non-GW white primer, was thinking about army painter

I've heard Tamiya is good, but is still several times more expensive than some of the cheap stuff other people have gotten to work well for them.

File: 20160608_154027-1024x576.jpg (153KB, 1024x576px) Image search: [Google]

153KB, 1024x576px

Alright, part of the mobs done. War paint is fun as fuck, most fun I've had with detailing.
Need some ideas for basing, how's it look so far? Look snakebitey?

What are modern metal models made from?

>>47681798
>What are modern metal models made from?

Normally it's an alloy consisting primarily of tin, with some copper and bismuth. I suspect Citadel's later "White Metal" has some zinc in it, too. Most companies have moved away from using any lead at all.

>>47681827
Any idea about Infinity models? Most information I've found is out of date, but it says they use lead as of 2011

>>47674077
That's cool as hell, man.

>>47665902
well, the only way to practice is to....well.....practice. Just take a bunch of minis you don't give a fuck against and paint away. Read guides and watch videos.

Learn the three or four basic techniques that will get you through pretty much everything:

1) basecoating + washes: you paint an area of the model that has good texture (an armor plate with lots of rivets or gaps, chainmail, fur, fabric with folds, etc) and then give it a wash with either black, brown, or a darker version of the base color

2) highlighting: pretty much the hardest one. You use a lighter color than the base color and pick out the higher edges, the folds that stick out, the edges of plates, etc.Gives the illusion of depth and lighting. This can be done after the wash is done, with the wash giving the shadows and highlighting giving the....highlights.

3) drybrushing: you put paint on your brush, and kinda rub the brush into a napkin or cloth to push the paint into the bristles and make the brush a bit dry. Then you brush it over a rough surface, and it picks out all the high points. Common uses are for fur, rusty armor plates, chainmail, etc.

4) easymode: paint each area of the miniature in solid base colors. Then do a wash of the entire model. Then drybrush and highlight 1-2 key areas (face, weapons, symbols and insignia, etc), and you're done.

File: shirow002.jpg (3MB, 2322x3350px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2322x3350px

>>47681878
>Any idea about Infinity models?

They remind me a lot of Masamune Shirow's Appleseed. I'm sure it's a deliberate homage.

Oh, you mean what are they made of? No clue. Can't say I've ever even held one in my hands.

>Most information I've found is out of date, but it says they use lead as of 2011

I've gotten pretty good results by adding some lead. I can also say I've gotten terrible results using almost pure tin. Not sure what the magic formula is.

>>47673807
popsicle sticks and that kinda thing. break them up, cut them up, roughen the edges, and then glue them in to look like duckboard

File: Triplex_Pattern_Lasgun.jpg (43KB, 740x278px) Image search: [Google]

43KB, 740x278px

>>47677034
convert them from regular lasguns. When I tried to delve into imperial guard a few years ago I experimented with slicing off about 3/4 of the lasgun barrel, leaving just a regular flat-ended tube with a flared end, and then gluing the cut off barrel to the top to look like a small scope of some kind (like an aimpoint red dot or something). See pic:

or even just slice off the whole barrel and then drill in two metal or plastic tubes to make a double-barreled gun

>>47677738
How about the type of resin mix to use? Is that clear polyester casting resin going to cut it, or should i look into something else? A lot of the tutorials I've watched don't really address the type of resin mixes they use other than the main resin and a hardener.

File: casting_life_in_resin.pdf (1B, 486x500px)

1B, 486x500px

>>47682602
>How about the type of resin mix to use? Is that clear polyester casting resin going to cut it, or should i look into something else? A lot of the tutorials I've watched don't really address the type of resin mixes they use other than the main resin and a hardener.

All of my resin experiments have been disasters, so I'm not really the one to ask for particulars on that. I do have this guide, though. Maybe it is helpful.

File: HirstArtsTestLightsOnLightsOff.jpg (82KB, 832x312px) Image search: [Google]

82KB, 832x312px

>>47674077
Here's another shot with some more pieces and the differently colored lights. Left side is lights on, right side lights off. The other tiles are Dwarven Forge, and the molded ones need to be raised up to the same level. That ugly thing in the foreground is an experiment with a magic-well type thing. Having trouble getting the light to sit low enough so it's not jutting out like that.

The lights are powered by the coin batteries and they're connected just with rubber bands (the kind for braces). It takes some finagling to get them to stay, and I'm open to other ideas, but they're a bit more complicated and kinda interfere with the modular nature of it all. Still, I wouldn't mind a less cumbersome solution.

>>47674297
>>47681919
Thanks! I'm hoping it will add some nice ambiance now that I've got a few more pieces than just the test one.

>>47677918
The water putty is very durable. It kinda depends on how you mix it, but I haven't had too many problems with it, and I even do half-assed castings most of the time. The main problem I've had with it is just the curing time. It seems to take twice as long and since I've only got one set of each of the molds I use it makes getting lots of pieces take a helluva lot longer than it should. I have to let them sit overnight before I drill or else the centers are still soft. You can tell because it'll feel damp and kinda heavy until it's completely dry, then it gets very light and pretty damn durable.

>>47682602
Clear's perfectly fine; I think white resins end up a bit cheaper by weight, but probably not by much. The important bits:
- Prep, prep, prep. Make sure you have everything you need ready to go when you pour (cups and stir stick on hand, molds prepped with release, rubber bands on hand to clamp, etc). Once you start to mix, your window of opportunity is woefully small.
-DON'T DEVIATE FROM THE RESIN'S MIX RATIO. Too much hardener is just as bad as not enough, and cleaning uncured resin from molds sucks.

>>47676936
I have like 50 of them sitting in a bag, but I've never tried painting them. They look really nice compared to other old IG models but they're expensive because of that

>>47685159

I was excited at the prospect of having a small squad of these ladz carrying special weapons and lead by an Inquisitor in powered armour with a Psycannon. Inquisitors can't get Psycannons in 7th Edition, but they can get Incinerators, so it's almost as good. Never did paint any of 'em (>>47677575), though.

>>47685177
Yeah I'm going to do something similar but for Kasrkins, which are cheaper and also look very nice. What put me off of using the Kasrkins is because there isn't a special character aside from the shitty captain, or much model variation. They all look the same. I should sell mine, but at this point it's more of a "how many can I get" thing.

>>47685240
Vostroyans*

File: purge1.jpg (6MB, 3888x2592px) Image search: [Google]

6MB, 3888x2592px

first time doing battle-damage

for much weathering should i use the sponge but not try highlight the microscopic dots or what?

>>47681388
>>47681520

Perry is overrated. You can't say "GW has too many busy details on them, Perry Brothers is much more realistic and simplistic" then complain about GW's "bad" models for being too low quality due to lack of detail.

From an objectively mechanical standpoint, GW's models are superior to Perry, simply because of superior plastic injection machines and CAD. From an artistical technical standpoint, Perry Brothers' miniatures display more skill since one of them is a fucking right handed amputee, and they made their sculpts by hand.

For anything else, including which one "looks better" is 100% subjective.

File: purge2.jpg (6MB, 3888x2592px) Image search: [Google]

6MB, 3888x2592px

>>47685547

>>47685547
>>47685563
>6 MB

I'd like to help but my internet is too slow.

File: 1458082886729.jpg (1002KB, 1920x1027px) Image search: [Google]

1002KB, 1920x1027px

>>47680506
>>47680420

>not only talking about but linking to tumblr on 4chan

She is a magical little Scot, isn't she?

File: aobr_blood_angel_WIP03.jpg (407KB, 1007x1280px) Image search: [Google]

407KB, 1007x1280px

>>47678365

Test fit of the beekee head. Looking at this close-up, I'm not crazy about the highlight on the left eye lens.

>>47685563
I think it looks great as-is

File: tg offers advice.jpg (117KB, 492x405px) Image search: [Google]

117KB, 492x405px

>>47685563
>>47685547

Not bad, but you might consider making actual little cuts in the armor with your knife to give it some extra depth. You stare it it for longer than a couple of seconds and it just looks like little stripes.

>>47686052
those are gorgeous

File: 1438019641658.jpg (403KB, 1280x714px) Image search: [Google]

403KB, 1280x714px

>>47686424

Aren't they? She started her journey of fame here by painting up Savage Orks (hence the nickname Savage Ork Anon), and then moved on to Tzeentch stuff for a while.

Anyone ever found vedros in a store?

>>47686489
Is it even out yet?

>>47665646
Did you cut that MDF board with a utility knife, anon?

Simple green plus a tooth brush to strip primer without damaging shitty plastic

Am I in for an arduous time or is this mini just going in the garbage?

>>47688795
White primer? You might get the top layer off with enough work.

Might.

>>47688821
Black primer, and I just need to thin it off because I totally fucked up applying it to the point that it cracked while drying on the front and the back literally didn't finish drying in two days.

>>47688832
Should be fine. Soaking in Simple Green works best when the container is sealed, so pop the mini in there and let it sit for a bit while you do something else.

>>47688869
I'm highly concerned about the damage it'll do to the plastic if left too long. It's very low quality plastic (Reaper Bones)

>>47659116

You can use a spray on yellow. Depending on what stage you apply the paint, you might need to mask it. Just use a bit of painters' tape or masking tape after you'll run it off your hand once or twice. If you want to save on some tape, you can use tape on the edges of the masking and some newspaper for the body.

Also:
You can use a CD polishing compound or plastic polish to get a more clear canopy. 3M is a good polishing compound. The grains are more consistent compared to some other brands I've tried, which occasionally had a large chunk that caused a small scratch. You may need to hold the canopy in a bed of kneed-able eraser to keep it from flexing while polishing. If it flexes, you're going to get a bunch of cracks forming and there's no repairing it.
If you don't want to do so much work, you can get a slightly less clear result by applying a clear floor polish. Future Floor Polish was a popular brand for this among scale modelers.

>>47688443
i did yes
they are rough on purpose as I took the knife at them at a 30 degree angle or so to give some taper

>>47688443
and I just did all the trench tiles with the utility knife as well
but they all have straight edges

>>47681534
I do use it on metal models. I use an older blade. The steel is much harder than the pewter (except helldorado stuff) and cuts away thin slices with ease. I prefer that when dealing with large mould lines than trying to file massive section.
Blades are dirt cheap and you should be replacing them pretty frequently anyway.

I have super fine files purely for smoothing.

I guess I do have 15 years of experience in me so knife control would be alright.
I can see why newbies might feel concerned.
I just found the back of the knife worked really poorly whenever I tried it.

>>47685547
Don't line them up so much. See on the leg you've got 3 down in a column.

Looks a little too much like an intentional pattern rather than damage.
Also make your light colour in the damage about half as thick and a touch brighter that will help them pop out a little more.

Here's a new one

>>47690064