WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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First for Waaagh!!!!

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>>46242874
And second!

>>46242674
Yes. Yes it is.

A beast, taller than a knight, but damn these legs. They're in so many parts it's a mystery how you're supposed to slap them together without messing up his stance.

>>46243035
Also
>skipping leg day

>>46242888
I love those mini trundle tanks!

>>46243055
You get close to a complete Lord of Skulls with the kit, so I'm going to use some of that plating to bulk him up. The front isn't bad but the back is chickenleg as fuck.

Sometimes browsing the classified ads pays. Got a Razorback and Veterans Squad for list price and as a bonus 3 times the Dark Vengeance Tacticals, Terminators and Characters + the limited edition Chaplain.

Full battle company here I come.

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>>46243230
also, shitty picture, because why not.

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>>46242874
>>46242888

Love it! You really captured the very essence of what it means to play orks! Brilliant paintjob as converting.

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First attempt at Blood Angels 5th company, thoughts?

>just bought terrain for $350+
>feeling that heart attack sneaking up on me....

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Reposting my irongut to get some criticisms/tips, as they are always realy helpful

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>>46243283
You should try to make an effect on the eyes, you should check this out

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>>46243283
>First attempt at Blood Angels 5th company, thoughts?

Not bad at all. You paint more realistically than I do (I'm more a fan of the almost cartoonish red-orange of Second Edition days), and I appreciate anyone who thinks that Blood Angel squadboyz should have black-rimmed shoulder pauldrons.

Out of curiosity, why not try for more contrast on the base? Is that just Mephiston Red down there on basing sand?

>>46243283

Its ok, but a little flat. Nothing really makes the miniature pop so to speak.

Check this guys channel out, I think hes got the right idea on how to really get exceptional looking blood angels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmnE4PKq1ec

>>46243327

I just wanted to say that club looks brutal as fuck. Would not want to be on the receiving end of that!

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First story of my Malifaux Mansion is set, gotta setup the second story layout next.

>>46243308
I hope that's some fancy terrain.

>>46243327
Might just be the picture/lighting, but the highlighting on his left vambrace looks really abrupt. Maybe a thinned wash to smooth it out a little?

>>46243342
The base isn't finished yet as i am not sure what to colour it yet.

>>46243351
I have seen his vids before but i am going for the pre-flesh tearers look so i want them kinda dull, thoughts on anything else that would make him pop?

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>>46243466

Well the aim of our hobby is to create the illusion of depth. We do this with shades and highlights. The more effort you put in to this the more the model will come to life so to speak.

Now you managed to hide quite a lot of the flat colors by using weathering and a thorn look on him, but that still doesn't change the fact that he is flat in his base colors when you take a closer look. Don't get me wrong, a full army like this, from an arms length or two away will look great on the battlefield. But if you want that same great look to show when someone picks one of your guys up, you need to go back to the basics.

Start by doing some zenithal light by blending from light to dark on all raised areas (shoulders, helm, arms) to the more shaded areas (legs, feats, back, under the arms, chest). This alone will give you a more realistic approach to your miniatures. After this, do edging and shades, remember to do edging in several steps, and reserving the brightest colors for the raised areas. Same goes with the shade, darker shade on the lower parts. As shown in this picture, you can see how the raised parts are clearly in a brighter color than the lower parts. Not only by its natural shade, but because the artist painted it that way. He created the illusion of depth.

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>>46243466
>anything else that would make him pop?

If yer gonna stick with green eyes (blue is also good), then >>46243341 has a great suggestion.

I was thinking some brighter highlights (pic related), but that probably runs contrary to your desire to keep them dull.

Other than the base, the last thing I could think of is the squad marking. Blood Angels denote squad number by a symbol on the right poleyn (knee guard). There are some colourful choices that would show up nicely even on the smaller poleyn of a Mk IV suit.

>>46243368
Haha yeah, even if I think the ironguts's hammer looks more deadly
>>46243375
You're right, I directly highlighted with mithril silver, I think next time, I will fist highlight with chainmail as it's less bright.

>>46243369

First up, that is some fancy terrain you got there!

Sure is... Well I hope it is rather. From the reviews I have red regarding a full set of resin cast full village for my mordheim games. All fully modular as well, to ensure that no two games are alike!
I also got a battlemat from deep cut studios 4x4 to really heighten the standard of our games, and give the buildings a surface they deserve. Then I went ahead and ordered some scatter terrain from thminiatures to fill out the mordheim set, but also to be used in some Warmahordes games... I feel... empty now!

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After lurking for a long while, I'm about to get back to my warhams. Could any of you gentlemen help me identify the colours needed for pic related? I'll probably be using a bit less of green and letting the metal shine through more. I found the painter's blog but he isn't sharing the recipe.

Also, even though the last thread had lots of great advice for newbies, I still have some questions:

-I'm thinking of using Vallejo Air, mainly because it seems that I won't need to thin them. I don't mind having to give 4 coats to get full coverage. The question is, Vallejo Game Air or Model Air?

-It seems that GW does the best reds, plus the brown and black inks (everybody seems to use these), anything else? I've read good things about their gold, but I was planning on getting Vallejo Air Metal, should I not?

-I'm thinking of using a grey primer (Army Painter), because I remember hating black primer for not letting me see the details well. Anything wrong with this? I know there are cheap primers around that do the job just as well, but I usually see them in black or white, not grey.

-Depending on who I read, I should base before priming, and others recommend doing so once the mini is painted. I guess that things like tufts are better left for the end, regardless of the method I choose?

-I don't have much workspace, so I'm probably not going to make a wet palette. Would this be a big problem? I'll be using medium to thin paints, dunno if this makes a difference.

-Should I use a matte or gloss varnish for pic related? I daresay gloss, but I'm not sure.

-Regarding plastic glue, any other brands besides GW? Also, is there a noticeable difference between thin and thick plastic glue? Lastly, I've always glues resin with superglue, but some people seem to recommend to do so with plastic glue as well?

-How do you handle the mini while working? Blu-tack+cork stopper?

I know this is a lot of questions so thanks even if you just read them.

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Finally finished this. I've got a few highlights to tidy up, though.

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>>46243951
>How do you handle the mini while working? Blu-tack+cork stopper?

Something like that. I used the top of an old medicine bottle. It allowed me to hold, turn, and rotate the model, plus it had zero chance of toppling over.

>>46244190
He looks radical mate

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WIP - Bastions

>>46243766
Thanks. Sounds like you've got one hell of a project to tackle with everything your ordered.

>>46244286
Thanks, I like how he turned out.

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My first Iron Hands dreadnought. I've tried highlighting, but my hands are to unsteady. Think it looks fine without it?

>>46245208
No, it never looks fine without highlights. It just looks flat (boring).

>>46243951
Vallejo model and game are basically the same, with the game range containing just a subset of the model colors, sporting more fantasy sounding names. I read somewhere that the game colors are a little bit more glossy, as they are meant to be more resistant to touch. You should varnish after anyways, so it doesn't really matter. You also need to thin the air paint a little bit, however not as much as regular paints.

Vallejo air metals are amazing. They contain aluminium flakes for the metal effect, which works amazingly.

You can thin with just water. Maybe use mediums for the metals and when you create your own glazes and shades.

Matte varnish. Gloss looks like shit.

Revell has a great plastic glue bottle with a metal tip for precise application

>>46245208
try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_oM5JMkwQI
quick and easy highlights that mostly works on larger models like a dread. Or you could always used drybrushing for highlights.

Otherwise it's a good starting point, looks like you've got decent brush control, I'd say some shading and a wash on the non black areas.

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Excited to paint this guy, oh man.

Pose still extremely WIP, almost all of him is currently just held together by blutac, only the legs are glued and ready. Base work next!

How to take care of brushes? i always clean them until the point they don't leave any color marks on a paper towel but sometimes the paint dries too much on individual bristles

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>>46245493
Side view

>>46245493
>gatling arm
>not skull-stuffed-with-more-skull cannon

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>>46244190
>Finally finished this. I've got a few highlights to tidy up, though.

Looks great! Does he ... have a relative who is an assassin?

>>46245501
Just don't get paint up to the base and use a brush cleaner.

>>46245493
That's a nice looking khorne fella

>>46244765
Fan fucking tastic

>>46245388
Thanks, I hadn't seen that method before. I'll look it to and give it a try.

>>46245511
It's magnetized so I can run him as a chaos knight if I want to.

>>46245541
I really like the kit. Going to field him for the first time tomorrow, alongside be'lakor for dank invisible kytan shenanigans.

>>46244190
great paintjob! the pose is awful though

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Chugging out some more bloaks

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Sorry for pic quality but it's already night here and I couldn't get a good spot to take some shots.

Anyway, that's how my deffkoptas gonna look, still have some details like cables, rokkits, chipping etc, but it's more-like done

>>46243230
>Sometimes browsing the classified ads pays.
This.
I got a fuckton of SM characters for the price of like 2 of them at retail. Bonus points for one of the Masters of the Chapter having a really sweet salamander backpack/cloak combo that apparently came from some limited edition chaplain

>>46245208
You are the first iron hands player I've ever seen. What draws you to them?

>>46246481
Magnets

Ok guys, I've got an unpainted tactical squad and captain sat on my desk and I want to paint them up as something that will push my painting abilities. I'm a dead mediocre painter, and mostly everything I've painted relies on washes on clothes and metals as my two armies are quite dirty and grimy (Imperial Guard and Orks).

I love Dorn, so I'm thinking Imperial Fists - anyone got a decent tips on making some super bright yellow guys? I love those old 2nd/3rd edition bright schemes so if anyone has any of those as inspiration I'd massively appreciate it.

>>46246497
my tip for painting yellow is being ready to cry

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>>46246497
>something that will push my painting abilities

Howling Griffons, anon!

>I love those old 2nd/3rd edition bright schemes so if anyone has any of those as inspiration I'd massively appreciate it.

How about these Howling Griffons?

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>>46246681

Oh wow, that's an impressive army. I don't know though, I think the yellow on its own will make me cry enough as it is. Then again, if I'm going to cry over the yellow I might as well go full masochist and add all the red as well.

>>46246722
Use a white primer.

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First time using RTV. Obviously didn't mix it right. Any way to remove glop and recover the masters?

>>46246497
>I love Dorn, so I'm thinking Imperial Fists
liking the lore is a good excuse to paint something hard, so go with them

>anyone got a decent tips on making some super bright yellow guys?
there are probably a thousand video guides on painting fists out there. Just listen to a few, pick the one you like best.

>>46246749
>>46246722
Or brown.

For warmer red and yellow,

>>46246481
I like the cybernetic augments part and I really like dreadnoughts. The other main factor is the simple color scheme because I'm colorblind.

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>>46246867
>First time using RTV. Obviously didn't mix it right.

Obviously! Did you mix it at all? Typically, this is how I do mine:

1) Lay down the clay
2) Add the master to the clay
3) Build a box around the "fill area". LEGO bricks are perfect for this.
4) [optional] add cut-up pieces of failed molds to take up space and economize on RTV (pic related - it's the blue chunks)
5) Pour RTV into a portion cup. I use a product that is 50/50, so I've gotten to where I can eyeball the volume.
6) Mix the stuff in the portion cup
7) Using a really cheap plastic brush, "paint" some of the mixture over the master, careful not to leave any bubbles
8) Slowly drizzle the remaining RTV into the corner of the box until the "fill area" is submerged
9) Wait for this half to cure
10) Lament that step 10 is not "PROFIT!"

>Any way to remove glop and recover the masters?

Hmmm... I imagine eventually that stuff will vulcanize and you'll be able to peel it off. What RTV are you using?

How would I go about painting Tau in these colours?

Is there anyway to achieve a gradient like the one shown without it being ridiculously time consuming?

I want V A P O R T A U

>>46247241
>gradient
>without it being ridiculously time consuming

Airbrush.

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>>46247241
These colours. Whoops.

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>>46247200
>Colourblind
Mad respect for picking up painting.

>>46246749
actually a brown or get primer would be much much better for yellow AND red

>>46247344
>get

grey

>>46245535
Maybe. Maybe.

He is BS6, for extra bullshit with the Needle pistol. Great for taking down scalies.

>>46247446
>>46245535
Has anyone made a necromunda gang out of the TF2 mercenaries yet?

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>>46247688
>Has anyone made a necromunda gang out of the TF2 mercenaries yet?

Not that I know of, but ...

>>46247204
I'm using "Specialty Resin Cast-A-Mold 25T". I mixed some up using a digital scale then needed more to fill the mold the second batch I shook the catalyst before adding it. Not sure if the green color is purely so you can guage how well mixed it is or if the hardener also needed to get shaken. There are a few spots around the edges that hardened up even in the white pour so I guess I'll give it a few days before tossing it.

Appreciate the tips, hopefully next try goes better.

Any of you fine gents have the "It's the miniature minigun pose" macro/picture/table/whatsit?

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>>46247826
>Specialty Resin Cast-A-Mold 25T

OK, so this stuff is a 10:1 instead of a 1:1 like I use. Your stuff is going to resist tearing a lot better than mine, but I wager it'll be harder to use.

I would suggest you get careful about measuring and mixing beforehand - what I condensed into Step 5 in >>46247204.

Prior to judging my 50/50 by eye, I would use two identical portion cups - one for the blue and one for the white, fill them to the same level, and pour both into the bottom half of a plastic water bottle that I had cut in half just for this purpose. You're going to throw everything away, so it doesn't matter.

I have also used 10:1 on projects where I knew tearing the mold would be a problem. In those cases, you might want to try out measuring into graduated cups to make sure you get the ratios right. You can practice with ordinary water at first to make sure you know what you're doing before you start using up your valuable silicone.

>>46244190
You know I forgot to suggest purple when you were asking what colour to do the needle pistol, turns out I must have done so telepathically instead. Looks good man.

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Dailey painting tip from me for mass weapons

>>46248088
what abut the blade on most of those?

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Just finished this, pretty heavy conversion. Took a month to build and paint.

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just finishing the bases

>>46248113
I paint mine black, so its just brushed on.

>>46248150
>just finishing the bases

These are just looking fantastic. What game is this for? They look like LOTR/Hobbit models.

>>46248174
Okay, I was just thinking that those areas might get the most bumps and they aren't getting a proper priming. Paint =/= Primer

>>46248283
Nah, ive never encountered "bumps". The thin coats of paint fill in anything that may even be there.

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>>46248227

they're the grim hammer models from GW lord of the rings stuff. i kinda want GW to make the ironhill dwarves models but highly doubt they'll ever get done.

>>46248145
Holy shitballs that is awesome

>>46248307
lol

Bumps and in knocks and chipped paint as they are the highest pointy area on the model and thus are more susceptible to chips without proper priming. Not judging, if it works for you, it works for you. Just bringing up a concern and consideration for any other onlookers.

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>>46248395
Its why you use the base coat Abaddon and not a layer. If you are so worried about the blades, just plug the end of the fucking spear into the carton

>>46248451
Calm down there sparky.
Clearly you would like to be argumentative, so fuck it. Ab black still isnt a primer. Maybe do some googling as to what a PRIMER is and how it differs from regular paint.
I was trying to be tactful in saying your method is stupid, but now I will just say it.

Noobs, what he is showing here works. Throwing things out my window instead of down the stairs and out the front door is also 1 way of to get them outside. It's also a terrible way.

Yeah your method "works." Yeah its a crappy method.

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Do people on ebay just claim that everything splashed with paint is pro painted?

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>>46248585
>Do people on ebay just claim that everything splashed with paint is pro painted?

No, but it's comical what some people think pro-painted means - so much so, that it's become a running gag here on 4chan and shows up in WIP on a fairly frequent basis.

man, I've been itching to get back into the hobby. I was thinking about doing a cypher the fallen build but I'm not too sure where to even start, where do you guys get your bits/supplies?

>>46248585
yes.

Also, a dozen models is to be referred to as a large army.

>>46248518
fuck off back to >>>/v/eddit

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>>46248518
>Calm down there sparky.

Just how is my method stupid? It allows you to prime huge quantities of weapon arms in one swoop and only at the sacrifice of 1% of the model piece that you place in a small hole in the carton. Priming paint doesn't keep your model from being scratched, as priming spray can be scratch off just as easily as a layer paint. The only thing that can keep your paint from being scratched is a clear sealing spray at the very end of the process. If you are doing things the way I do them, it it all done in stages, in which at this stage i need to prime all the arming hands. In order to get the same amount of paint on all the arms and solid coverage, you use the egg carton as a stand. I do the blade tips because it all gets a few solid coats of black base coat. All because you don't like the method doesn't make it stupid.

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There we go, another batch of models finished.

>>46248705
BECAUSE PRIMER BONDS TO THE MINI AND PAINT DOES NOT IN THE SAME WAY. ITS THE ENTIRE POINT OF A PRIMER.

You are perpetuating shitty advice based on knowledge you lack.
"just stick half your model into cardboard and paint acrylic paint over the rest huh huh"

>>46248634
That one on the right is doing an approximation of my face while looking at the picture desu

>>46248646
>Also, a dozen models is to be referred to as a large army.
If a dozen models is a large army I genuinely wonder how they'd describe my marine collection lol

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>>46248048
Interesting to learn about the tear resistance, I didn't know that was a thing. I just got that RTV off amazon around a year ago decided I should use it since it probably has some kind of shelf life.

Do you ever have problems with the RTV sticking to the item aside from porous materials like wood? Items I was casting was a trio of 15mm scale bunkers similar to these: http://20mmandthensome.blogspot.com/2012/01/tutorial-log-mg-bunker.html
I glued sand on top for texture and then sprayed them with primer though there were still lots of little nooks and crannies for the RTV to grab onto due to the sand.

For measuring I just put a disposable yogurt cup on the scale and poured in the rubber and then added 1/10 as many grams of the vulcanizer. Does that work if you mix and pour right away or is it better to measure into two separate containers prior to mixing?

Man none of my /tg/ project is going right today :/

I've got so much shit to paint(Relative to me) and little to no motivation to. How do you guys do it?

>>46248705
>>46248807
Acrylic paint is very sturdy, but primer does help. Honestly, I would recommend just getting a small bottle of brush on primer for things like this. Vallejo makes a good one.

>>46248807
>"just stick half your model into cardboard and paint acrylic paint over the rest huh huh"
Are you missing the point im using fucking spray primer on the rest of the model? Painting the SINGULAR spot that didnt get primer with a base coat isnt going to make the entire model fly off into chips

>>46242783
OP, custodian of Johnny, please tell me more about yourself.
You seem like a chilled and interesting individual.

You're obviously atleast late 30s to have been in the hobby so long. I was like 10 in 3rd edition.

Why did you choose BA?

What makes you keep the retro bright themes on your minis?

What do you do for a living?

Tell us more.

>>46248807
>You are perpetuating shitty advice based on knowledge you lack.

Except skelebro is the leading painter in skeletons man, except for the other guy who takes just as much time as he does for his skeletons

>>46248890
I find breaking it down into smaller groups and then focussing on them helps. i'm currently painting up a couple of BaC boxes. I've split the tac marines into groups of 10, the termies in 5s and the characters seperate since they get a bit more detailing.
Another thing I've started doing is splitting my paintjobs into distinct steps and making sure I do at least one step a day just so I feel like I'm always making progress.

>>46249133
I'm going through an old squad of Fire Warriors, god those casts on their legs were awful. New Crisis suits, pathfinders, a Riptide, a Grey Knight Termie Squad, and Draigo.

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Very unfinished wip shot of an incredibly shitty Contemptor recast I got for free from a club mate. Slapped a bunch of DA bits on it to try and obfuscate just how bad it is.

I don't even know why I'm doing it, because I have an actual FW Contemptor in my backlog, but whatever.

>>46245208
Wash all the colour areas with Agrex Eartshade.

It will give great detail to the sarcophagus

>>46248518
>>46248807
I'm quite impressed by the sheer amount of autism a single person is capable of generating.

>>46249245
i dont get what his problem is with my method.

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>>46248807
>BECAUSE PRIMER BONDS TO THE MINI AND PAINT DOES NOT IN THE SAME WAY

Calm the fuck down kid. There is nothing wrong with using paint instead of primer on a fucking tip of the spear that he's going to put protective varnish on after it's painted anyway.

>perpetuating shitty advice based on knowledge you lack.

You're either new, or haven't seen any of his work. So sit down, take a few deep breaths and hang yourself while you're at it.

>>46249187
Nice knee-lens.

>>46249310
His problem is that a potentially high-wear part of the mini isn't primed because of your method.

Much as GW bases will stick to the bare plastic, and will probably be fine if you handle your minis carefully and use a varnish, it would be /better/ if there was actual primer there.
My recommendation would be to add one extra step and use a black brush-on primer on the spear tips after you spray and before you paint them black.

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>>46249371
>mfw this guy hasn't got a knee-lens

I got bored and wanted him to have a knee lens. Call the police, I don't care.

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>>46249310
>i dont get what his problem is with my method.

You're literally flipping out like an idiot over the fact that he uses black paint on blades instead of a primer, even though this method of priming is making his work much more efficient and simple, because he doesn't have to glue/pin those arms to anything in order to prepare them for proper priming, which still wouldn't make a fucking difference, as he's going to paint those blades black anyway.

>inb4 primer is not paint

I know it's not paint, but you can still paint on it, if you can apply it well, and you're going to varnish the miniature at the end anyway.

>>46249457
>implying it's anything to complain about
gotta see what you kick

>>46249438
>My recommendation would be to add one extra step and use a black brush-on primer on the spear tips after you spray and before you paint them black.
Is the Abbadon Black basecoat not as good as it used to be? I remmeber that it took a good solid fingernail gouges to get that stuff to rub off.

>>46249526
As I said- Abaddon black will probably be fine, but using something designed to be used on bare plastic (Imperial Primer in the Citadel Range) will be /better/.

>>46249526
You might even be able to suspend the box the other way up, having pushed the spear points through a little more, and just do a pass with black spray primer on the tips...

>>46249526
No, it's still decent, don't worry about it. It's just a bunch of faggots who think that drybryshing is a masterclass-level technique trying to give painting advice.

but yeah what he said: >>46249568

>>46249568
>Imperial Primer
Hmm... i dont see it on their store. Vallejo made one you said? Im all for trying out new paints

>>46249604
>You might even be able to suspend the box the other way up, having pushed the spear points through a little more, and just do a pass with black spray primer on the tips...

>and just do a pass with black spray primer on the tips...

>a pass on a 6mm blade

>with a can of GW primer

You can't be this fucking stupid.

>>46249646
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Technical?s=99189956001

It's a technical paint, showed up just from using the search box for me.

I'm pretty sure most paint companies make one, geedubs were pretty late to the brush-on-primer party.

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>>46249604
Ah, you mean after the white spray. Thats actually a silly-good idea now that i think of it. Take a Xacto knife and make it a slit so the blade part can shiff right through the slot after the white dries

>>46249665
>>with a can of GW primer
Because we're all using GW Primer. Shut your fucking mouth.

>>46249492
Ikr. Half-dead, honoured Space Marine hero sitting in his armored egg, can barely see over that fat rim and pointing the range finders and targeting optics of his autocannons on the ground directly before him while he is running also doesn't seem that hot of an idea.

Gotta have knee-lenses.

>>46249689
>https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Citadel-Technical?s=99189956001
Oh well fuck me, i didnt see the technical label when i googled it.

>>46249665
You mean
>A pass on the entire other side of an egg carton

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Im about to start painting my Bretonnian Warband for 3rd edition. I'm definitely gonna be going for a very 90s look for all my Bretonnians.

>>46249374
Lovely work. For Blucher I imagine?

>>46249944
Very Australian

>>46249944
It's gonna be a very Aussie look for your Bretonnians.

Why does the picture do that....

Well, maybe I can find an emu miniature to mount the knight on.

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>>46249055
>OP, custodian of Johnny, please tell me more about yourself. You seem like a chilled and interesting individual.

Thank you.

>Why did you choose BA?

Keep in mind that Blood Angels didn't get their own rules until 1996, when Angels of Death was published. For First and part of Second Edition - about eight years - Blood Angels were merely red Space Marines. I chose them because I had several bottles of Testors red flat enamel paint on hand. I never had any idea that Blood Angels would actually become something more.

>What makes you keep the retro bright themes on your minis?

I prefer the brighter red to the darker Mephiston Red base, and I like it best when the shoulder pauldrons are trimmed with black. Some of the studio painters have done it that way, and some have not, even as far back as First Edition. That's what feels "right" to me because it was part of my fonder gaming memories. My college roommate and I marked off a four by six area of the carpet remnant on the floor of our dorm room with masking tape and used to play Second Edition 40K on it - his Orks against my Blood Angels. Those were good times!

Besides that, I have nearly an entire Battle Company with several tanks and dreadnoughts painted up in this style. Would seem odd to switch now.

>What do you do for a living?

I'm a computer programmer.

>>46249966
Yup, thanks, although not for my armies, sadly I don't have any Spaniards of my own.

>>46247825
Thing is, they'd almost have to be Van Saar.

If we don't count anyone as a gang leader, we'd have:
>Heavy: Heavy with Heavy Stubber or Autocannon. T4 and W3.
>Soldier: Heavy with Missile Launcher. Mid-high stats
>Pyro: Ganger with Specialist, equipped with flamer and stub gun.
>Demoman: Ganger with Specialist, equipped with grenade launcher.
>Sniper: Ganger with high BS, hunting rifle, and a sword. Possibly scare grenades.
>Spy: Lots of Stealth skills, focus on melee and knives. Also has a stub gun.
>Scout: Ganger with Sprint, Leap, Dive. Equipped with shotgun, club.
>Engineer: Uh, ganger with Inventor?
>Medic: Ganger with medkit? I don't know!

With that amount of Techno skills, they'd probably have to be Van Saar, and either insanely lucky or rather experienced. Either way, they'd be weird.

>>46250091
>I just found out grav guns aren't new bullshit, they're OLD bullshit

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First loyalist IW, what do you guys think?

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>>46250201
>I just found out grav guns aren't new bullshit, they're OLD bullshit

During the bygone Second Edition era, Andy Chambers said if there were one weapon he could take out of 40K, it would be the Graviton Gun. He also advised everybody to take the "Virus Outbreak" strategy card out and tear it up.

>>46248751
Simple, yet amazing.
A close up would be nice, im interested in that black and the hammers

>>46250091
Thanks for giving us some exposé. I like that you stuck to your roots.

I have a friend who has been doing it as long as you, but he also hordes so he has like a dozen companies of marines and then several other armies that fill his entire garage.

>>46250293
This is all way before my time, I think I first played in 2007? before dropping out and coming back at the start of this year.

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>>46250293
Ah yes, the card that orks had to have a counter card to just to avoid instantly losing the game.

Was painting for like 3 hours straight and after that went to brush my teeth and the bigass toothbrush felt really weird in my hand

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>>46250091
I hate the Jonny meme

But you are alright.

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>>46250530
Want to feel something even weirder in your hand?

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Recently finished my Desperadoes

>>46250570
Fuck off.

>>46250673
That looks awesome, got a pic of the whole unit?

>>46250701
>>46250709
Nevermind, you already did. What system are these for?

>>46250736
For Infinity. The US sectorial

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>>46248864
>Interesting to learn about the tear resistance, I didn't know that was a thing. I just got that RTV off amazon around a year ago decided I should use it since it probably has some kind of shelf life.

It probably has a date printed on it. I'm pretty sure what's left of my bottles of 1-to-1 have expired and turned to sludge by now, since they're been unsealed and it's been so long since I made a mold... but they could surprise me!

>Do you ever have problems with the RTV sticking to the item aside from porous materials like wood?
>I glued sand on top for texture and then sprayed them with primer though there were still lots of little nooks and crannies for the RTV to grab onto due to the sand.

Yes, and this goes back to the tear resistance.

The softer rubbers like 1-to-1 will often catch when pinched between two pieces on the master or if you have an "undercut", where the mold has to wrap around or into part of the model's detail. If you're not careful when you take the master out of the mold the first time (or take any subsequent recasts out later, for that matter), you stand a good chance of ripping out part of your mold and rendering it useless.

Simpler models - those without a whole lot of intricate detail, like First Edition Space Marines - are less prone to this.

>For measuring I just put a disposable yogurt cup on the scale and poured in the rubber and then added 1/10 as many grams of the vulcanizer. Does that work if you mix and pour right away or is it better to measure into two separate containers prior to mixing?

When you're just starting out, I would recommend separate containers, although once you get the hang of it, you might find that your measurements don't need to be all that exact and you can wing it. We're not building International Space Station parts for NASA here.

>>46250736
Infinity, I think

How would you lads represent Artificer Armor?

>>46250955
something fancy.

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>>46250416
>Ah yes, the card that orks had to have a counter card to just to avoid instantly losing the game.

It was brutal indeed. There was also a Vortex Detonator that you could mount on a tank that would make Vortex Grenades explode in the model's hand as he tried to throw them. Both cost 50 points to put in your army.

>I hate the Jonny meme

Yeah, I totally get where you're coming from. My occasional forays to shitholes like /b/ have inspired similar feelings for Pepe and the 1960's Spider-Man cartoon.

>But you are alright.

Thanks. I' try to avoid clogging up the thread with Johnnies unless they're there for a reason (like >>46250770).

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Any idea how this effect was done?

>>46248751

Don't suppose you know how these guys scale with the old LOTR dwarfs? They look like they're bigger.

>>46250955
>Different mark
>add bling
>fancier paintjob

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>>46250955
>How would you lads represent Artificer Armor?

Uh... with artificer armour?

That's a lame answer. I only have one of these painted up, and he's just a regular ol' squadboy.

I think >>46251018 has the right idea. For us Blood Angels, that's easy - GW gave us the model a long time ago - but for other chapters you might need to borrow bitz from some more expensive kits. Hell, even a box of Sigmarines might be worth pilfering from!

>>46251018
>>46251099
Might give the fella a bit of gold then.

Maybe a gold helmet.

>>46250570

Sure, what do you have in mind?

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Posted my first salamander few days ago, i think it's getting better. Just had a bit of trouble fitting the weapon into his hands properly, but forced it in the end.

>>46249944

Wow.

Australian style brettonians!

whats the best black paint? abaddon black is a bit lacking

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Finished this Ethereal the other day.

>>46248145
More pics please Anon, that mini looks superb.

>>46251051
I know its supposed to be some sort of power aura but it looks like the got a flash freezing

>>46249729
Knee lenses make much more sense than contemptors being more agile than a tactical marine....

Fucking FW

>>46250091
Holy shit, I miss the folder editions and their cooler-yet-goofier style

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test scheme for custom warband rhino, wip but mostly there. sorry about shitty lighting

yay or nay?

>>46251649
I would either tone down the orange or brighten the purple, probably the latter.
Just looks a little jarring to have that be the only "bright" spot on the model.

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>>46250233

Iron Within, brother. Good work overall - nice and neat on the gold trim! I tend to do my IW more dirty and 'on campaign', but the cleaner look is good too.

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>>46250955
>>46251111

Here's, Azrael aside, my only other 40k Marine with Artificer Armor.

>>46251033
I have to confess I'm quite fond of Johnny, to the point of having bought one recently.

Stay you, battlebrother!

>>46251723

Fuck, i love the flag

>>46251682
Thank you very much. I wanted a little cleaner on the guys, as they would be moving a whole lot more, the vehicles hazard striping in my army will be pretty busted up though. Your Tyrants are on point though, they look fantastic

Does the Razorback not come with twinlinked plasma cannons?

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>>46251679
I thought somebody might say that, so my suspicions are confirmed. Hmmmm, definitely need to rework this then.

The marine colors are pic related so the idea was to have some orange, as the doors are sorta like the rhino's "shoulderpads" to mimic the marine scheme. Would like to include orange somewhere but now idk, maybe the lenses/lights?

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Alright /tg/

Which one of these schemes do you think is the best?

>>46251865

I really dislike that puke color

Other than that, the top left one seems the best

>>46251865
last one

>>46251835
Yeah, I reckon it's just the larger surface area of the rhino that makes the colour scheme look wierd. Lenses would work, I would say that painting the bolter in orange might help out some too. And, uh, y'know, if you have any banners or stuff you can slap on the rhino, they might look good in orange.

>>46251865
Bottom right/top 3rd from the left.

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>>46251865
Second bottom one is already taken

>>46252075
>banners

actually I think I'll try to work something with this

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>>46251033
Holy shit, imagine throwing that thing into the middle of an ork horde army.

>>46251480
Not a great fan of the model, but the paintob is fucking spot-on. Nice job.

>>46251051
>Any idea how this effect was done?

The original model, Delphine by Hasslefree Miniatures, does not have the "Castle Greyskull" aura around her... but look at how symmetrical it is.

Could be that somebody made another version from the original green and cast it up with this flaky flash all around *on purpose*, looking to re-create the effect from the cartoon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yeA7a0uS3A

>>46251865
Second row, second form the right.

The greenish yellow you have there is arse, so the less of it the better.

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>>46252293
>throwing
don't have to throw nothing

This was the card the developers told people to tear up.

>>46251397
Is that a dark purple instead of black, or did you just fuck the white balance until its anus fell out?

>>46252475
>don't have to throw nothing
>This was the card the developers told people to tear up.

He means the grenade that you could buy (see >>46251033). Took a pretty hefty toll on Imperial Guard armies, too. Notice that both the grenade and the Vaxxine Squig are the same points cost.

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This is Friedrich von Lengenfeld, he is the sergeant of my Averland Warband for Mordheim.
In his second battle he lost his leg, but he gained the skill "leap". So I attached a spring to illustrate his ability to jump d6".

>>46252545
I know, but the virus outbreak didn't require bringing someone within grenade range and could be popped on the first turn.

>>46252569
kek, i like it

>>46252521

It's abbadon black but i guess i just thinned it too much

Vanguard Veteran box has a right handed power sword, right?

Trying to kitbash a Captain.

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Almost lost this guy in a battle last night, now hes really ready for the battle on Sunday!

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>>46252769
>Vanguard Veteran box has a right handed power sword, right?

Both a right-handed power sword *and* a right-handed Relic Blade... pic related.

>>46252928
eggcellent

>>46252928
star child!

>>46252993
>Relic blade
Oh baby.

Thanks anon, looks like I'll buy that box and add the bits to my collection.

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Saw this guy in the local shop today, decided I would turn him into a sort of memorial for whfb to put in my display case

Gorgeous model, I can only hope I can do it justice

>>46254121
He's riding half a horse?

>>46250293
Ha! That brings back memories. I had my army wiped out by that card alone on turn one more than once. Also, spess mehreens were immune to it, because lol.

What would be the symbol of a Sept with the following characteristic.

- Made primarily of N'dras colonizers.
- Close to a series black holes, most of them result of failed attempts to gather the entire energy of stars (canon). The area is full of dangerous radiation after the stars went Supernova and requires specialized ships.
- Produces "exotic matter" for starships.
- Water Caste is used for espionage and subversion more than diplomacy. Police-state like.

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>>46254447

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>>46254447

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>>46248634
kek, thanks for letting me realize that im not the worst at painting.

>>46254547

OK, is that meant to represent a proton or a particle? Or is is something lewd?

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THE URIZEN

>>46251865
bottom far right immediatly drew my attention so I would go with that one, though maybe i'd make the backpack thingy blue as wel.

>>46251051
google the picture.
A few days ago I had that in my facebook stream.

so i'm making some mad max style desert roads from fine grain sandpaper, sand texture paint, and balsa wood. does anyone have any tips on cutting or wearing the sandpaper to make it look more natural, as if it's been sitting in a desert for hundreds of years?

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>>46254741
>OK, is that meant to represent a proton or a particle? Or is is something lewd?

It just looks like a Venn diagram to me.

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So this is my planned color scheme to get some petty revenge on my friend who has an irrational hatred of teal.

I'm not 100% sold on it though... any ideas on some color I could add or change to make it look a bit more interesting?

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Update on the dreadknight

>>46256022
Is it just me or is there a moldline along the fingers on the hammer hand?

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>>46256022
The base wrekt my bottle of abandon black though.

>>46256041
That's just the knuckle bends

>>46256041
>>46256066
Actually i checked again. There is a mold line. I'll shave it off. Thanks.

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>>46255889
>any ideas on some color I could add or change to make it look a bit more interesting?

Blood Angels mark the squad insignia on the right poleyn.That could add the extra dash of colour you're looking for.

>>46255889
Maybe helmet color to red then eyes to yellow or light light blue?

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>>46251824
>Does the Razorback not come with twinlinked plasma cannons?

No, and that's not one of da roolz options fer da wepunz, either.

Are you thinking of the lascannon-and-twin-plasma-guns setup that was the original model in Second Edition (pic related)? That option is still legal per the Space Marines codex, but no, you don't get those bitz in the latest kits. All you get is the twin lascannon and twin heavy bolter. Forgeworld makes some compatible weapons, though.

>>46256152
>6th squad
SCOTLAND MENTIONED

>>46256563
Specifically: The Codex lets you have:
> Heavy Bolter
> Lascannon and TL Plasma Gun
> TL Heavy Flamer
> TL Assault Cannon
> TL Lascannon

There are FW rules for a Multimelta version.

The GW box gives you the TL HB and TL Lascannon

Forgeworld also make Las-Plas. Assault Cannon and Multimelta turrets.

Nobody seems to make Heavy Flamer turrets.

>>46256563
Yeah that's what I meant, my brain melted.

Wait, so do you mean FW has them so I don't have to go converting?

>>46256563
What a set of guns to pair together

>>46251480
>That skin
How?

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Death Guard guy here again. Deal with it.

>>46257013
FW has them...at FW prices. Plus the guns aren't very attractively positioned in my opinion. It's not a difficult conversion and there's plenty of guides online if that puts you off, but hey, they're your models.

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-GB/Razorback-Lascannon-and-Plasma-Gun-Turret

>>46257196
The concept of conversion worries because I fear I'll destroy the plastic and waste the models.

Plus I'll need to buy a bunch of plasma guns anyways to do the conversion.

>~600 total for the weapons and the vehicles

Yeah, guess I'm gonna be SLOWLY buying that.

>>46257229
Take your time and use plasma pistol barrels , you'll end up with loads of them and they're just wasted plastic anyway.

>>46257267
I forgot about those fucking things.

Good idea.

May have just saved me ~200 bucks. Thanks anon.

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>>46257013
>Lascannon and TL Plasma Gun
>Wait, so do you mean FW has them so I don't have to go converting?

Yes (pic related).

>>46257016
>What a set of guns to pair together

It probably made more sense in Second Edition when each plasma gun rolled a Sustained Fire die (allowing up to six hits!) instead of the "Accuracy Through Overkill" method that gives you the re-rolls (possibly two hits, with a re-roll) in the current edition.

>>46252118
it's been taking me wayyyy too long to make sense of what you are saying

>>46251483
until I read the comments I thought it was flash freezing, didn't even cross my mind it could be a power aura

>>46257016
It's nice versatility, the main problem is that putting a razorback close enough to take advantage of it is pretty risky.

>>46257469
It's great for blood angels, fast preds getting stuck in then blasting away at side armour.

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Currently designing the symbol that will represent my Tau expedition force. Quick fluff is that they're an expedition with a mission to experiment terraforming and re-introducing essential elements for life to the planets in the shallow portions of the Zone of Silence for future re-settlement and/or discovering new methods of terraforming in general. Opinions/criticisms, please?

Someone should make a guide for the OP on how to make your own transfers.

what's the best or easiest way to fix up the dreadknight baby carriage problem?

>>46258088
Green stuff, hobby knife, and a Dreadnought body.

>>46244234
>>46245372
Thank you both for the input, greatly appreciated.

>>46251480
Looks great, anon. Those green highlights on the staff are a nice touch, love the base too.

>>46251865
Bottom right and second from the right on top are my favorites. Though I'd add just a touch more of the highlight color to either one, maybe on one of the knees or the weapon.

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>>46257856
Also trying this. Anyone got input?

Skitarii Vanguard Alpha test model

>>46257144
>all that sexy MKIV armor
Pretty sweet, anon. Looking forward to seeing them with packs and bases. Any plans to add grenades/holstered pistols/other bitz?

>>46258625
Do they have the stealth special rule?

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>>46258625
Oops, how embarassing

>>46258652
Stealth and shrouded actually since I'm building towards war convocation

>>46254870
Those helmet engravings are sexy, how was it done?

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>>46258654
Spoopy. Gonna have a sweet army when you finish putting these all together.

Have you considered maybe flattening one side of the tentacles a bit and using a nail set or something to add little depressions for suckers?

>>46258682
by buying the forgeworld word bearer conversion kit, I imagine

>>46258783
It's a good idea, but I don't think simply poking holes into the tentacles will make them look like suckers

Thinking about using some Sigmarine bits to make the 10 captains of my chapter..

How are the sigmarine bits sized in comparison to marines?

>>46259002
I wasn't thinking holes, just shallow depressions. Would make it easier to paint with a different color and they'd look a bit more convincing. Just a thought.

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I want to build something like this, but not sure what sorts of rules would be best to counts-as for in 40k.

It's an A-Gear from Space Cowboy/Ace Online, a flying tank equipped with a main single turret(single largerange or rapid twinlinked medium) and a pair of missilepods. The tougher the armor, the better.

Imperial allies only, Forgeworld books accepted. I just don't have a wide knowledge of what's all available in forgeworld when it comes to skimmers and fliers.

>>46259218
Stormwolf or stormfang

>>46258464

This one is better but too many hard angles makes you look like Taucrons.

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>>46258464

>>46259264
Thanks for pointing that out. Maybe more rounded shapes instead?

>>46259028

They are larger than Terminators but you can make nice giant marines by using their legs and torsos.

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>>46259218

Fucking piece of shit A-Gear get cucked by B-Gears more masterrace I-Gear

>>46259281
I like it, but it looks more Taucron-ish, like >>46259264 said.

>>46259301
Hm, I'm sure nobody will mind if my Chapter's captains are bigger than my troops.

>>46259256
Downloading the wolfbook now to see what they have. Granted, wolves are not on the top of my list for things to ally Sisters with, and I had briefly forgotten about their existence entirely. (it was a strange bliss)

Not for lack of appreciation for your suggestion.

>>46259323
I can already access BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRT with the badass Sisters forgeworld flyer. I was also not great at using the fast fighters and the novelty of a flying tank was attractive.

>>46259467
>I was also not great at using the fast fighters and the novelty of a flying tank was attractive.

How many warp portals did you camp you filthy A-Gear?

I loved how every gear in that game was unique. The cool bombing mode, the fast dogfighters, and the hovering Starcraft siege tanks. The only gear that I can't imagine trying to level up is the horrible M-Gear with its complete lack of firepower.

What I wouldn't have given for the ability to simply bolt to the ground and become a turret or carpet the screen with bombs whenever I had to level up in those narrow cave tunnel maps. Constantly having to barrel roll and do 180 reversals or risk crashing into walls.

>>46259576
Exactly two, because I was never proper high enough level when raids happened, and I rarely got medals from those kills. (grand totaling about 20 minutes of camping total) M-Gears had cool support stuff, and are more playable in the modern server with it's higher exp rates. I got really lucky and found an engine for my A-Gear that lets me go as slow as 15speedunits, slow dogfighting the speedys is so fucking funny.

But back to the subject at hand, should I work off a landraider, or something else? The end product being about the size of a landraider's footprint would be nice, but unsure best means to start.

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>>46247273
Well I know what colors to paint my Skitarii army in, thanks anon

Man, I really like the swords the Liberators use.

I kinda want to use them for my Chapter's Power swords, especially since their homeworld is a medieval one.

>>46260124
seapunk was never good

>>46260181
The only /mu/core genre that was ever good was/is future funk

>>46260124
Pink and turqoise always looks good together
>posts vaporwave image
Outside of all the bullshit thrown in beside it that is.

How limited should I keep my palette?

I'm painting St Celestine right now and I've read a lot about keeping the amount of colours you use low, so I've kept her restricted to white armour, red cloth and gold details so far.

The trouble is there's roses on the base of her sword and I'm not sure if I should paint that a different colour or not. I'm afraid that painting them red would just make them get lost so I'm considering going for purple, but I'm not sure if that would be going overboard on colour or not, especially since I'm going for a blue power sword

>>46260336

The main colors should be limited to two at most. For example, silver armor with red cape.

Minor details can be as varied as you like. Blending is a great way to introduce many colors into small details without looking overly busy or detracting from your primary color scheme. You will see this a lot on competition winners who have things like Nurgle entries that have tons of color on them but still are majority green and not looking like rainbow Tzeentch.

>>46248518
go build a church

>>46257856
If you can flip it upside down so the circle can be a planet that is being terraformed maybe?

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>>46242783
Been working on some bane thralls and testing a weathering technique for rust,
I replaced the shitty cartoonish skulls with some bits i had laying around to give them a more serious look as well.

>>46260512
That's actually REALLY cool. I'll see what it looks like.

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>>46260535
>>46260512

>>46260336
>rose
pink

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noob here trying to improve my edge highlighting.

just made up these scarabs today.

>>46260336
I built an army around the red corsair color scheme(red, black, gold). Don't make the same mistake that I made

>>46260675

Just go back with the caliban green and make the highlights thinner. Use multiple quick strokes to do one straight line if you have to if one slow stroke is making things too squiggly or thick.

The 12 o clock scarab on the bottom right has decent highlights. Although that's about the only one of them that does lol.

Drybrushing might also be worth a shot.

Anyone have a good idea for kislevite models for mordheim?

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>>46260439
church meme song for your thread viewing pleasure. pic related.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYSVMgRr6pw

>>46260675
that's your second unit, yeah? keep it up necrobro

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>>46260675
Pretty good start, now go back and fix up those thick lines with the base color, you literally have no reason not to and it will come out great.

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>>46259028
>How are the sigmarine bits sized in comparison to marines?

I might catch some flak from >>46250532, but here's a size comparison. They're like really tall terminators.

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>>46260697
>>46260722
thanks for the feedback, once the crackle paint on the bases dries completely I'll go back and try touch them up.

>>46260715
yeah bought another box of warriors the other day.

pic related were my first scarabs from the start collecting box so I think I'm improving haha. might try touch those up as well.

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hey /wip/, I just finished painting up two new models after take your advice into consideration. Still waiting on the matte varnish, but there's a huge difference with the wash being watered down a bit; I also tried to do some scrape-highlighting, but some of the shallower angles were hard to get at.

New is on the left, and right is new (left) and old (right); how'd I do?

>>46260799
Hmmm.

Would using their legs for my captains look too out of place?

I really want to incorporate something from them into my captains.

>>46260799
I don't suppose you have a picture of sigmarine next to centurion?

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>>46260892

YOUR DAYS AS A NOVICE ARE BEHIND YOU, LEANDROS!

>>46260941
That answers that question.

Thanks anon.

Looks like I'm buying some Sigmarines

>>46260941
>>46260994
I wouldn't use those Pauldrons were I you, though.

>>46261043
Or feet for that matter.

>>46261043
Wasn't planning on it.

Probably going to have to spend some time getting the regular Marine pauldrons work.

>>46261059
I'm gonna keep the feet because the captains are trying to incorporate "traditional" armor from their homeworld and I like how they look.

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reposting, count as KoW Basileans

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Started on the bommer

>finally motivated to finish painting mechanicus
>sit down get out paints, brushes and models
>hands shaking
>wont stop
>oh god the shaking

I just wanted to paint ):

>>46262128
try scotch
stops them hands shaking something good

>>46261754
what do you keep in those spice boxes?

>>46262154

All spice, nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon.

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>>46248145
JayZus.

>>46248518
This guy was actually giving obvious advice and making an observation on WIP, that is actually valid.
>>46248651
>>46248705
>>46249245
>>46260439
Actual low brow attempts to tear that guy down for responding snarky to a snarky comment, but still attempting to help... What the fuck /tg/?

>>46262266
>Actual low brow attempts to tear that guy down for responding snarky to a snarky comment, but still attempting to help... What the fuck /tg/?

This happens ALL THE TIME.

1. Newfag begs to be spoonfed instead of lurking or using google or ANYTHING that requires using his non-existent brain.

2. Fed up poster chews him out while still giving him the answer.

3. Gang of white knight tumblr faggots start shitting on the person for not spoonfeeding with a smile on his face.

It's what happens when you keep tolerating dipshits and faglords and autists, and what happens when you keep spoonfeeding. Eventually the faglords and newfags get more and more uppity and demanding. Just like SJWs. Give an inch, they take a mile.

>>46262358
1. Millenials.
2. Grumpy douches.
3. Millenials.

(but you about 101% right, mang)

>>46262358
>It's what happens when you keep tolerating dipshits and faglords and autists
OR
we could just ingore them
But we cant. Like the TAU guys.
Or the Pirate ship guy.
Or the guy with the church but I missed that one.

>>46258654

Looks like some bloodborne monster mate

>>46262560

You can ignore them, but then some moron will just spoonfeed him anyway and give him the impression it's okay to be a worthless faggot and shit up the board instead of lurking more.

Don't pretend like you don't see all the dumb questions that don't deserve their own thread, or even dumb questions not even in the right fucking general.

>>46262587
>You can ignore them, but then some moron will just spoonfeed him anyway
heed the
>>But we cant.

>Don't pretend like you don't see all the dumb questions that don't deserve their own thread
I will be honest I dont see them that often and that will always be the problem of these generals and generals in general I mean /vg/ is a shitfest and we knew that when we started making them like uh ... what is it now? 2 years ago?

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Work-work. 3 weeks to get this WarConvo up and runnin'

>>46262646
What the hell is going on there

Are you assembling models at work?

>>46262646
>donuts with resin
Mhmmmmmmmmm tasty

>>46262646
Pretty nicely done onager base you got there.
I really like the brown martian technical paint on it.

>>46262646
>showing off your coffee and donut
Elitist prick. When I first saw your image I thought the two figures on the left were an Ironstrider conversion with a clawed foot.

>>46262646
what models are those, are those 40k? skitarii of some sort?

>>46262631

I was around for /vg/'s birth. It looked quite a bit like /tg/ does if you removed all threads but generals.

Then somehow after I took a break for a few years now it's just some kind of weird place that doesn't talk about any of the games the generals are named after and just people spamming weird esoteric injokes and memes or namedropping each other in a bunch of namefag circlejerks.

Like, the Warframe and YGO and MMORPG generals aren't even about video games. It's just faggots talking about each other like high school girls.

>>46262712
AdMech and Skitarii, aye. The tracked ones are Kataphron Battleservitors and the boxed thing is an Onager Dunestrider.

>>46262750
thanks, from the angle i thought the kataphron ones were some kind of little grot tank.

>>46252354
>>46258265
Thanks guys. I tried out doing some more shading and blending transitions, instead of just shade, re-base, highlight, edge highlight. Not too noticeable in the photo, but the darkening around the bottom of the chestplate/backplate are painted, not actual shadow. Good to hear it turned out okay in the eyes of others.

>>46257098
It's primed Ceramite white, base coat The Fang, and then another all over coat of Russ Grey. Wash with Nuln Oil, layer up again with thin coats of Russ Grey. Highlight 50/50 Russ/Fenrisian Grey in the centre of the muscles/where top down light hits. Same as last step but with pure Fenrisian Grey more centre/top focused. Mix some Ulthuan Grey with Fenrisian Grey for a tiny spot highlight on the uppermost parts of the muscle, like the top of the bicep, or tricep on the right arm. Hope that helps, Anon :).