WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Handy-dandy photography guide ...

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Handy-dandy white guide ...

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>>46206053
Here's the majority of it. The blue brushes with the caps are my detailing brushes (camel hair I think,) that I don't want to drybrush with. I also have an adjustable magnefying glass with clamps on it.

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Hey /wip/, so a few days ago I asked about my idea for a recipe for painting black power armor. Since some Anon asked me to post results... well, here I am.
What I did:
Black primer, gray zenithal, lighter gray selective highlight, multiple layers of black wash, few black lines. Some things I've noticed:
the lighter gray highlight was pretty much a waste of time;
washing (at least without diluting it) seems bad, since the line where the wash starts is clearly visible on otherwise almost perfectly smooth transition after airbrushing.
So how do you like it Anons? Is it good enough for something like TT+?

>>46206361
I'd suggest investing on ink/wash or few. Good ol' ink wash in the recesses will bring out the detail pretty much every time.

Black and brown washes are a must.

>>46206374
So far it doesn't look bad.
I think wether or not it works how you imagined is something you can on decide once you put the grey into context with the rest of the figure though.
If the trims look too 'high contrast' they'll drown out the gradient on the armor plates.

Keep painting on this one a little more and see how it goes. Edge highlighting is a very 'loud' way of painting, it really stands out and creates stark contrasts. This approach is a lot softer. So might look different from two or three feet away. Hope that made sense.

I like what I'm seeing so far though. Got potential.

>>46206361
>>46206361

Alright, I'd say your problems with painting are more due to your lack of experimentation than due to your equipment. I'm not 100%% solid that those acrylics on the right are ok on miniatures regardless.

I saw some drybrushing in you models, I'd suggest you to try different highlighting methods.
The colours seem also very plain, with little regard to color theory, and quite chalky.

The big model you posted has black and red but it also has green and purple. those colours don't go well together, it just feels artificial.

Try keeping a more limited palette, you can always use one or two very bright, clashing colours, but on small amounts and to determine focal points, again, don't just paint the spikes white, add some washes, add a highlight, using a single colour per part just makes it feel plain, shadows and lights add an extra 3-d depth.

And try to keep those colours less chalky. 4-5 very thin layers help, but then again I don't know how much pigment is in those other acrylics on the right, which might be hindering your work.

And most of all, keep experimenting, keep trying.

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Column for Infinity Ariadna (the chu chu train guy)

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Smashed these TW out yesterday, really enjoyed it too and motivated myself to get more shit painted. Can anyone give me tips on getting my bases looking like the basing is all one solid piece? Atm my bases just look like I PVA glued a handful of tiny brown stones to my base and I see other stuff that looks like there is some sort of filler in with all the stones.

How would I go about painting white pants on a model? I'm getting back into the hobby and will be painting some pikemen tomorrow with pants where one leg is blue and the other white.

Any tips would be appreciated.

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(almost) finished basecoats of my deffkoptas. Now just bath in holy agrax and time to highlights, chipping and checkers.

>>46206656
Thanks for the kind words Anon. The thing is I fucking hate edge highlighting and prefer calmer blacks, as in without much contrast.

>>46207010
I'm jealous of your ability to lay down such a pristine yellow. Looking great so far.

>>46207135
primed with bone colour form AP, then just 2 coats of averland sunset and 1 layer of yriel yellow for extra shine. It's silly easy with propa primer. I've painted yellow on black primer some time ago and it was pain in ass, over 8 layers, and it was still orange'ish.

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Apologies for the shitty pic, but this is more of a colour scheme question than asking for feedback.

I need to mark one of these guys out as a sergeant but I wasn't sure how to go about doing it, any ideas?

>>46206810
Ok, thanks for your advice! I realize the green and purple paint clashes terribly, I thought it would come out more pastel and less like a super soaker.

A few questions:
1. When are the best times for wash coats? Like should I do a base coat, wash, then re-apply the base color in spots as a way of highlighting?
2. Should I be painting all my pieces before building? I typically only do the spots that will be impossible to reach, but should I do all of them before I assemble?

My ultimate goals are to build a necron army andchaos demon army but I want to make them top tier. It seems pike necrons are pretty easy but require a lot of black and silver.

>>46207346
different colour hood maybe

>>46207376
That's what I was thinking but I don't know what colour to go for

>>46207420
black

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>>46207456
I was going to save that for my stormtroopers but maybe I will

>>46207346
add something to his headgear?

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any tips/critiques for literally my first WiP? I plan to get metallic silver and gold for the weapons and collar. Obviously need a smaller brush to work on details. I'm having trouble figuring out how to make the white pop, it looks very chalky to me right now.

>>46207590
Tidy this shit up, finish the base coating and wash it then come back. you can't judge it at this stage.

>>46207590
Well, it's your first WiP, so I could complain about everything. The colors aren't opaque, the paint is messy and not clean at all, there is paint everywhere getting into parts where is shouldn't be.

The paint is thin, though, which is why it isn't opaque

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Bit more progress on the battlewagon

>>46207590

Are you even trying? You should figure out how not to get paint everywhere before you even think about stuff like "making the white pop".

>>46207875

Do the exhaust pipes lead somewhere on the other side of the wall?

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Dooors! The one with the ram's head if going to the be the front door to the malifaux mansion I'm working on
>>46198219
I am a bit behind in Malifaux lore, but even if it is a crater I'll still have a nice bit of terrain to use.
>>46207875
That's gonna be a big bitch. I like how it's looking so far.

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Since we're doing the first ever WiPs, here is mine.

Obviously need to watch where the fuck i put my brush

Also i bought Gehenna's gold instead of balthazar gold for the aquila and skulls which didn't work out so well

>>46208165
I hate to be the one saying it, but you need to thin your paints.
Some of the detail of the model is caked in paint.
As a rule of thumb applying multiple thin coats is better than one thick one, in just about every situation. Aside from that - considering it's your first ever WIP - it's not that bad actually.

Keep working on your brush control and keep thinning in mind and you should see some improvement soon. Shouldn't take you long to arrive at a decent tabletop standard.

>>46208165
THIN YOUR PAINTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

but seriously, ghennas gold works fine, it jus ttakes 2-4 coats

and go touch up all your shit

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First time doing something more than filling gaps between bits.
used milliput for the body and green stuff for the details...there's still a long way to go tho.
Currently working on the hands(its horrifying), added a banner on the right hand(taken from the bloodletters sprue)and i was thinking on adding something on the head and the back, maybe a hooded cloak?

>>46208165
Remember to shake gehenna thoroughly or it'll act like red water

>>46208397
>>46208401
>>46208487

Thanks anons. I was thinning the paints but i guess not enough

With the light green i was trying to do edge highlights but it didn't work out, maybe i should not do that for now

what kind of paint thinner (other than water) should I get?

>>46208165

My $.02

Thin your paints. Buy a bottle of vallejo game air - thats pretty close to the consistency you want to aim for.

GW metallics arent great for beginners. P3 metallics are easier to work with. Thats what I use, and I've been doing this for almost 15 years now.

Read tutorials, watch videos, and make sure you understand the various aspects or processes involved with painting and modeling.

At the beginning, find a tutorial you like. Try to emulate it as close as you can. This will help you learn the different techniques.

Dont let yourself get discouraged. We all go through the learning stages.

>>46208678
liquitex flow aid

>>46206915
Bumping for help

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>>46207875
Brother!

>>46208678
>>46209137
https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/15

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Why can't I hold all these Nurglings...?

>>46208853
Thanks anon

>>46208620
>maybe i should not do that for now
Only way to improve is with practice. Keep doing what you did and you'll get better at it.
I can guarantee if you put the next to marines next to the one you painted here you'll see definite improvements, if you listen to the advice given.

So I was a retard and tab-pinned my miniatures to bases with green stuff AND superglue. Is there a way to separate them without damaging the minis (ideally the bases also)? Minis are metal, bases are epoxy.

>>46208620
I've done salamander before and trust me the green that the salamanders use is a pain in the ass to get right. Best thing I can say that will help is to keep as little paint as possible on your brush. Seriously any excess paint on the brush is going to fuck you with that green.

>>46209666
Acetone is gonna soften the superglue.
Might melt the bases though. Definitely not gonna help if the GS is enough to keep the tabs in the bases.

Safest best to safe the minis would be to break the base in half. If you manage to do that cleanly it might be fixable.
Best shot at saving both might be using a saw to cut the tabs off the feet. That only works if the bases allow you to do that. And you'll have to insert pins manually into the feet the next time you want to put the minis down.

Good luck.

Does anyone know of any good bits stores that carry stormcast bits? I'm looking for some prosecutors legs for my sanguinary guard.

>>46208678

The cheapest acrylic one you can find. I use Vallejo since it's basically the same cost as regular paint but the bottle is small. I'm sure larger bottles can be bought for cheaper. Anything that says acrylic thinner or acrylic medium or thinner medium will do. Flow aids are redundant for brushwork but work just fine, and if you find paint drying too fast use paint retardants or mix them in with the thinner/water.

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Took 6 months and 3 passive-aggressive emails to get this damn thing. Then another month to get around to assembling in an afternoon.
Lasercutcard's chaos defense line. Made out of mdf board, held with superglue, and ya know what? I like it.

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>>46207875
And more

>>46210790
how much it was?

>>46210872
12/10 would purge

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>>46210872
I would waagh with ya

>>46210935
with shipping about $25
I'm not sure how much I would recommend ordering one, though. Like I said, six months to get it because after two I get an empty envelope in the mail, then the guy forgets to send the replacement, than he finally sends one after I left a shit review cause, well, I didn't get what I paid for. And even that took two months.

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finished off this guy, was a nice break from my malifaux but I don't really want to paint any more infinity anytime soon.

>>46211220
I like it.

>>46211175
I can understand some delay, shit happens and all, but sending an empty envelope and then sounds like ignoring the requests for product to actually be shipped all sounds like utter crap.

I just mounted a few days ago my skitariis unager dunecrawler with neutron cannon, but now i want to magnetize them for anti-air option.
The problem is: how do i remove the weapon without breaking everything? I used GWs thick glue. is there anything that can melt the glue or help me de-assebling it?

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>>46211873
if it's plastic glue you're out of luck as it literally melts the plastic together, it it's super glue you can pop it in the freezer and this will weaken the bonds.

Also started work on this guy, lots to do

>Guy at my shop has this irrational hatred for teal
>Really tempted to copy that WarhammerTV Teal Sigmarines scheme but for my Space Marines
Would teal even look good on Space Marines though? That's the real question.

>>46212105
>Would teal even look good
yes, teal is love, teal is life

>>46212059
i guess im screwed then...ill just cut it off with a scalpel then so nothing breaks in a horrible fashion and then magnetize it properly.

Also, i already like the pants on your mini, where dat model is from?

>>46212143
Alright anon, I'm gonna trust you on this.

I'll paint the Battle Demi Company I'm buying at the end of the semester teal.

>>46210790
needs some rivets to really be complete, though

>>46212105
I reckon white with teal shoulder pads and helmet and gold details

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>>46212190
it's not a marine, but I fucking love teal schemes

>>46212190
you could paint a test model first

>>46212272
>Not going balls deep on everything you do
What's the point of living anon if you do that, anon?!

>>46212248
That looks nice.

TEAL IT IS. FUCK YOU JOEY.

>>46212248
God damn, if I had the patience to repaint my Tau, I'd go teal.

>>46212200
I have plastic rods and will get on that, thank you.

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>>46206232
please stop posting this. its shit, and uses 2 more paints than needed.

So.

Is the Chaos Black spray worth using? Or should I avoid it?

Noob from last thread
I watched a couple of videos on painting miniatures. Noticed that for some of them they used a lil thicker brushes and fine tip brushes, which look exactly like the ones i was using. I think other than me not being a good handpainter was that i had thinned my paints too much and applied alot. Their paints didnt look runny like mine when they applied it. Gonna try to make my paints milk like instead of watery

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>>46213640
I have that one saved too, thread-name-anon, but people always request the Blood Angels one. Have another commonly requested image for your troubles.

>>46213949
I don't think there's anything really wrong with it, but the krylon paint+primer black is like a quarter of the cost and just as good if not better.

I want to comfort that beautiful Sister waifu and pray to Emperor together before cuddling

>>46214247
Oh, I'll have to look into that, thanks mate.

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>mfw this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_oM5JMkwQI

>Painting Aegis Defence Line
>All basecoating, washing or drybrushing

Such a great break from actually having to think while painting.

>>46214082
Remember one thing that Duncan says that is very true:
You can thin your paints all you want, if you put too much paint on your brush and therefore on your model, it will look thick.
You can always add more paint by going back to your palette, provided the apint isn't dry, hence the use of a wet palette.

>>46214742
To be fair, that works with huge models with very straight lines. But good idea nonetheless.

>>46215034
I'm going to try it on my riptide and possibly Crisis suits.

>>46214987
What i for my paints is put em in a jar, thin em, wet my brush, dip it in wiping off any excess then do some minor strokes on a paper towel before i apply it on the model. Ill mess around with it.

>>46215871
Use a palette, senpai

>>46215974
I had one but cant find it, ill look around for it before i start any painting. And how fine should a fine tip brush be? I thought mine were fine enough but was wrong apparently

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>>46214800
Showing one of the small sections. A quick and dirty job, but the ADL is painted except for the turret,

>>46216060
You can use basically anything as a palette- a plate, some plastic from a clam pack, a tile. You should be using a palette to thin your paint and for controlling how much is on your brush (but you still want to have your tissue paper)

Make sure you don't dip your brush into the paint past the ferrule (the collar around the bristles), this will splay your tip and ruin the brush.

As for how fine a tip... they should come to a tip? I use a number 2 for a lot of stuff and an 00 for fine stuff, but these sizes aren't totally uniform between manufacturers.

>>46216060

Needle sharp. Go buy a kolinsky.

Also a cake of brush soap is a good investment and will help maintain a sharp tip as well as keep brushes clean and revive some old brushes.

>>46216182
I have some tamiya #1-2 brushes. #2 is mostly used to prime parts since its larger. The #1 isnt fine enougj and the other brushes i have (dont remember the brand, picked up from ace) though i plan on buying more fine tip. Couldnt find my palette so ill just use scrap plaplate

>>46216356
The two fine tip i have are more of a toothpick sharp than a needle

>>46216411

Is it at least a very sharp toothpick?

>>46210136
I love Hobby Titan because they sell in bulk

>>46216539
I would say so, that would work if i thin correctly?

>>46216624

Yes.

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Raven guard test model and also my first ever finished model.

I'm quite proud of how it ended up looking, especially the chipped paint on the knee and the green stuff sculpt on the shoulderpad.

The black is done using a black wash over gray undercoat, it looks quite nice in person.

I'd like to do some osl on the lenses to add more light to the face, then maybe add some pouches and I'll base him once I finish the rest of the squad.

Of course command and conquer (c&c) is appreciated.

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>>46217856
Also, two battlebros in progress

>>46212248
Teal is pretty much the best color.

>>46212248

Brutal/10 would play against!
You could enhance your edging by adding yet another 2 edge highlights to the model, to even further the effect you have going. Focus this more and more towards the sharp edges and leave some of your already edged showing through.
The colors you chose are ace by the way.

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>>46211130
Holy shit that's almost an A-Gear from Space Cowboy/Ace Online.

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I know this isn't /tg/ related but it is WIP seeing how I spent the last few hours painting these little bastards.


>>46218270
I think that Joey would argue against that >>46212366

>>46218484
I think this is one of those jobs enamel paints would have been better for, so they'd look like badges. Right now they just look really flat.

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Hi i would like to get the same effect as pic related, i am going to use vallejo lemon yellow,but i have a problen with the shading part, flesh wash is oop and i can't get coat d'arms stuff. Would seraphim sepia work all right? Should i water down a colour? Does the fact that flesh wash was actually an ink change much?

>>46218609
They stopped making Reikland fleshshade?

>>46218614
Are you sure they are alike? I have been researching a bit and people say flesh wash wasn't really a flesh wash, but a yellow/brownish thing,that's why i prposed seraphim sepia.

>>46218609
I just realized i wasn't very clear, my question was for a shade for the yellow

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Have you ever seen a shop display unpainted miniatures before?

taken quickly to not look like I was confused by this

I'm thinking of ordering sentinel parts to kitbash with a dreadnought for a more believable mecha. I'm trying to figure out which pieces would be usable, weapons wise, for a believable conversion to dreadnought. It seems like all the weapons are "twin-linked" but would any of them not look out of place?

>>46218734
Sometimes they are for sale, some times they are WIP armies.

However, seeing the bits of paper with unreadable notes on them, I'm guessing they're for sale.

>>46218737
Tacking dread arms onto a sentinel or sentinel legs onto a dread isn't going to look good, mate. Nonetheless, you're too vague about what you're planning so it's hard to advise on the weapons question.

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>>46218803
Well I'll have to disagree their, I think the legs look great on a dread, but I was wondering if something like the sentinel flamer or missile pod would look like to much different from normal, that someone might not play against it.

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>>46218876
What about boxnought with contemptor legs?

>>46219191
unlikely to find a good price, or even available legs, without the rest of the contemptor coming along with it, though it would look very good, humanoid, which is what the SM are going for look wise.

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>>46219208
>unlikely to find a good price
>mfw

I wonder what a contemptor torso on boxnought legs would look like.

>>46219238
Squatnought probably.

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>>46219238
easily some of my best work

>>46219273
It's actually kinda cool.

>>46219245
>spudnought

FTFY

>>46219273
I think the contemptor torso is a bit larger, but something like that.

>>46217856
Looks like too much paint covering the details

>>46219245
I had an old metal dreadnought torso with terminator legs that I acquired from an old mate. Looked like absolute shiiiiit.

>>46219238
>mfw

You get what you pay for. You're not fooling anyone with your shilling. As more and more people figure out how to buy chinashit, more and more complaints about the quality dispel the "even better than the original!" bullshit.

>>46219348
>dreadnought with terminator legs
>looked like shit

What a twist.

>>46219382
You're not fooling anyone, GW.

>>46219208
The Calth plastic Contemptor is fairly cheap on ebay.

>>46218734
That's a cute pink phone anon but your hands make you looks like a crab.

Would teal look good with red (helmet, shoulder trims, backpack exhausts) and bone (shoulder pad inset) details on a Space Marine?

>>46219978
I love it. Great job anon.

>>46219740
The red and teal might look good together, depends on the exact colours. The bone is going to look weird, go with either white or black.

>>46219740
Head over to the b&c and use the painter.
Or paint a tester.
Or use a bunch of color pencils and some paper to visualize the idea if you're not sure.
Or use phothoshop to do a quick mockup.

Teal and red is a sound combination in terms of color theory. A scheme is as much about placement and ratio as it is about the colors themselves though. Personally I'm not a huge fan of painting only parts of the backpack different colors, but that's just me.
The idea sounds decent enough though.

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Picked up this box for £45 just cause I love skellies, but never painted any before.

Trying to decide between square or round bases (comes with round). Probably won't play any games of AoS/WFB with them so it's mostly aesthetics, but skellies look so great ranked up. Round bases look better on individual models. Need consistency. Wat do /tg/?

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>>46220481
>>46220483
What do you guys think?

>>46220568
If you want aesthetics you should go for round bases.

>>46220588
Out of those three, scheme 1 is probably the best. You could do with a bit more red lower down though, like on one of the kneepads. Should balance things out a bit.

>>46220588
The scheme would be a lot stronger if you get rid of the red exhausts or make the entire backpack red imo.
Generally speaking I think the best schemes on Marines are clearly structured in blocks of color.
So I'd use the middle one and change the backpack to all teal or all red.

The black is a bit boring.

edge highlights, drybrush or sponge for highlighting ork vehicles?

I have a mini with a bunch of potions on it's belt.
How should I approach painting them so they look like vials of glass with liquid, rather than just looking like Christmas baubles?

>>46220616
Depends on the style you are going for.
Post picks of your stuff. Or tell us how you want to paint them.

A pretty good way to paint ork vehicles is to prime with a rust color, drybrush everything metal and then paint armor plates etc in the colors you want leaving the edges unpainted giving you a chipped look.
Edge highlights have to be super clean and consistent on an entire vehicle to look good. Also work better if you are going for a fully painted in clan colors look.

>>46212105
Consider that sigmarines are one step away from blood Angels

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>>46220641

The 'level' of the liquid should be parallel to the base, unless you are taking movement into consideration . Start with your main colour and draw the parallel line. Colour beneath, there's your liquid. Add a bit of white and add that to the 'level line' as a highlight, and maybe a few (tiny, tiny, tiny!) dots as bubbles. Be prepared to fiddle with it for a while, and I know mine isnt good lol, it's WIP.

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>>46220641
You need to paint the fluid into the vial and then add another layer where you paint highlight reflected from the glass on top.
Also helps if you paint the fluid trying to give it some depth. Think of how a glass of red wine look in backlight.
Looking at reference pictures is a good idea in general I guess.

>>46220698
In fact this is an even older photo and the liquid is barely started and I was testing colours, dont hurt me

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>>46220662
that's how they look atm. I've posted them before in this thread, but they've been washed with agrax.

I kinda like their dirty look so I proably won't re-apply basecoats on red blue and yellow panels. So I'm just wondering which way would benefit them most and keep that orky mesy look.

>>46220788
Sponge weathering would work well here.
Not sure what you mean by sponge highlights though.

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>>46206904

Those are real fuckin' nice dude, what's this about a chu chu train?

>>46206954

Do you have white primer? It can make your models look a little rough if you don't basecoat all areas (no black in recesses you can't reach) but you could zenithal prime (black primer on entire model, spray white dusting from top).

Anyway, from there just go on the You Tubes and look for Dr Faust's cool white or warm white tutorials. If you use a cool white (blue based white) you should be able to hit both sides of the trousers at once when basecoating with a pale blue or whatever.

>>46207346

If those guys are Tallarn, they are based on the British Desert Rats of WW2 so you could have a look into that for inspiration (not all that many pics of them all wrapped up like that though). But that could be an idea, have a leader with his face visible and a badass grizzled beard or some shit. Sandy ass beard. Pic related. Those look like Haradrim models, I had some of those.

>>46211220

Awesome. I have the icestorm Pano to paint up but i'm just too lazy

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>>46218609
Please? Here is a pic of flesh wash over white if it helps

>>46221179
Are you stating tallarns are based on brits in the desert or did i misunderstand?

>>46221341
Good ol' fake tan colored flesh wash. It should do the trick.

why did st duncan stop making videos? did he abandon us? :(

>>46208165
pretty decent for a first try! keep on working and you'll get better!

in addition to the aforementioned advice, I'd suggest you paint metallic colours over a black layer. A bit of black shining through is less distracting than the green on your marine...

>>46219336
Yeah, fucked up there, especially the helmet,I tried like 3 or 4different ways of doing it, so parts of it are quite chunky.
Now that I have the scheme figured out I'm trying to be much more careful with this stuff.

>>46211130
Why would a Snakebite drive a tank? Now you need to make it boar powered....

Do I have to thin washes?

>>46222793
If you want to. Depends what kind of effect you're trying to create.

>>46220788
I see moldy lines

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Got in the last thread too late. WIP, hows the skin tone?

>>46222953
Face is really good. The rest... maybe a bit harsh?


I bought a Mekboy Gargant last week. I was going to name him "Stompy McStompyface"... but I just won a pair of Great Gargants on E-bay.... so I have stompier things.

I am also now... skint.

>>46222953
As I said last thread, the tone works ok, but it looks really, really dry and chalky.

Super thinned gloss varnish might help but idk.

>>46213640
those whitescars look pretty garbage imo

>>46207346
Dunno if you're still here anon, but maybe a striped or more vibrant tie around the head? Not sure what its called, the saudi looking thing tied around the headscarf, on the forehead

>>46206230
thanks bad dragon

>>46224415
Looks more 'Primal Hardware' to me (They do tentacles with orifices. Don't ask).

>>46223540
Ive got one layer of water downed gloss on it and its already looking better

>>46224415
No matter how many pictures of it I take, it keeps looking phallic.

>>46224615
>Implying phallic is always a bad thing

Dude, it is a burrowing creature. If it didnt look penisy, youd have a slew of anons questioning why a subterranean worm has spikes and antennae that would get injured underground

tl;dr: looks great, keep up the good work anon

>>46224840
Thanks anon.

At least it doesn't look like a black rubber dildo anymore.

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Ideas on colours for the splinter pistol? Counts-as needle pistol for Necromunda.

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30th anniversary coming up, decided it would be a fun time to make my own chapter and start my second army - with mustaches.

>>46225116
Purple.

>>46225155
Dig the concept. Maybe add some scottish check?

>>46225155
SMASHING

What kind of head should I give my pesos xenos inquisitor? His body is based on the Tempestus Scion leader with the coat.
I'm thinking either a fancy schmancy WHFB empire head with a big fancy hat, a stormcast eternal head for that mysterious masked look cyborg look

>>46225608
i wanna go more full on british, over the top

>>46225699
exactly - this is more like it. Over the top british desert rats kinda thing i'm thinking.

>>46209262
I feel I've seen this in person.

>>46219382
>he doesnt order from the most based chinaman
heheuheuheuehueheuheuheue

>>46225735
if you do that, make sure to complain about colonials and drink hendricks before/during the game

>>46225984
I'm absolutely going to do that.

Saw a bunch of Chaos spiky bits on ebay. It was £3 last time I looked and it's now £12.50 plus postage. Not paying that.

Does anyone have an idea of FW's release schedule? I'm getting thirsty for 40k Blood Angels.

>>46226217
30k i mean, lmao whoops

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My fifth finished mini. Really happy how it came out. Wanted to make a lapis lazuli mask with the golden 'veins' but every time it came out wrong so after a couple of attempts i went for mono blue. Any tips on how to make the golden parts on such a small area? Anything i should change?

>>46226251
>your fifth
real quick, go fuck yourself
stop being so good at painting so fast
i might blend the highlights on the cloak a little more, and the shoulder and neck armour is a little bit sloppy, but damn good

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>>46225608
>scottish

Those are clearly Turks. Give them oily skin. Maybe a bit of a tan. Isn't one of the gene-seeds producing some protective skin oil? Maybe they got a faulty one that gives them a permanent gloss?

>>46226606
>Mucranoid
>Phase 16: This implant allows a Space Marine to sweat a substance that coats the skin and offers resistance to extreme heat and cold and can even provide some protection for the marine in a vacuum. This can only be activated by outside treatment, and is common when Space Marines are expected to be fighting in vacuum.

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Behold! My work in progress Gorkanaut conversion, or as I like to call him, DA CHOMPA!

>>46227373
Is it gonna have two faces?

>>46227373
That jaw best be hinged

>>46227373
noice

>>46225155
You best be giving the dreadnought a mustache

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>>46227577
Yes.
Picture related was the initial inspiration.
>>46227606
It ain't. Doing that would have been too much work.
>>46227607
Thanks m8.

>>46227713
Magnets?

>>46212248
Damn that awesome. Would you mind telling how you paint the teal? Want to paint some teal deldar

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>>46227373

>>46227373
>paint yellow
>call him pak boy

waaaghka waaaghka waaagka!

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reposting my hetzer

>>46220588
you motherfucker

scheme 2 was what i wanted to do

we must now fight to the death

>>46227713
TENGAH TOPPAH GORKAH MORKAH

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30k Dark Angels.......can't wait till my actual shoulder pads arrive instead of the 40k placeholders I am using.

>>46228856

Looks neat anon. Hard to tell from the picture, is that faded whitewash over 1945 green?

How do you compromise for Tabletop Standard, WIP? I struggle to come to a decent point in between spending many, many hours on a miniature and not fielding an army that's 90% unpainted.

>>46229909
I don't.

Can't say that I have ever played with unpainted models either, because I paint pretty much everything, even common dirtstompers, in sub assemblies.

>>46229991
So how long do you take per miniature?
I painted one guy I was really happy with the other week, but just on painting he took 6 hours.

>>46229909

I don't. I play Iron Warriors and do almost the whole army with drybrushing and ink washing.

>>46229529

If you're using BaC plastics, the resin Mk IV shoulders are different sized from the BaC ones. You have to sand them a little bit so they look right.

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Why do no chapters use earthy tones or pastels?

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>>46227373
And it is assembled (for the most part.)

>>46230486
Because that's the Tau's color scheme.

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Finished painting last night, need to clean up the white parts alot. I read a guide on painting, (prep bright colors with white, darker with black) and added a few more color details on the knees and bolters. Looks a lil better imo

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Fucking rivets. I understand the barest pain ork conversion nuts have.

>>46230889
>need to clean up the white parts alot
A-are there any white parts?

>>46230133
Shoot for a base color, a shade, and a highlight. Do them in squad batches to keep from spending 6+ hours on a single mini

>>46230133

Don't try to aim for 30 minutes to 2 hours per figure. The people who do it that fast either paint like shit or are painters of the gods who have been doing it for years and win golden daemons.

One or two guys a day is a good speed if you're painting well and happy with the job. A lot of people are super slow and take years to do a few squads. If real life went perfectly and all you did was paint I'm sure 4-6 hours for a guy would be a good speed. That'd be more than enough time to do one or two squads/units a month which is a good time frame to shoot for.

>>46231129
Aw yeah, I'm glad you took the advice. Looks sweet.

are those for heretic guardsmen, or marines?

>>46231324
Both, actually. I have a haos army and a renegades army. I plan to use it and another junk-style defense line in bigger games.
Gotta put 200 infantry behind them walls, anon.

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Everything is chrome in the future

>>46231129
I would kill for someone to just sell bags of pre-cut rivets

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>>46231655
Someone's looking to be witnessed.

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Any place selling some ridged stuff to make cabling for some MkV leg conversions? Tried some round cabling, but it doesn't work the same as a flat cable would.

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Paint all the sorcerers!

My Thousand Sons paint factory continues. The two terminators at the front are to be count as Obliterators.

>>46227801
prime black, base coat incubi darkness (I used one of the spray cans, I don't know if they still sell them) gradually added P3 Meredius blue to the mix, added a little bit of white to that for highlights

>>46231401
the real question is are you going to add in chaos basions and wall of martyrs-style fortifications

escape hatches for days

>>46231945
I might in the future, yeah. for now... My backlog is way too massive.
Hell, this defense line is gonna just be steel and rust with blood and mud. Boring, but it's a defense line.

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adding to my kitbashed fire dragons. Hope these ones turn out better.

To fill in and smooth out the crest of the helmet, would liquid greenstuff work, or should I get real greenstuff?

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>>46230889
>Finished painting last night, need to clean up the white parts alot. I read a guide on painting, (prep bright colors with white, darker with black) and added a few more color details on the knees and bolters. Looks a lil better imo

Maybe I missed the posts where you got started, anon, but you've got a lot of work ahead of you - and this coming from a guy who's not really all that good himself.

I see that these are cookie-cutter marines, so it's good to learn on them, but can I ask what paints and brushes you are using? Your paints are *way* to thick and globby, making me think there's either a problem with the paint (and how you're thinning it), the brushes (or how you're using them), or both.

>>46231680
People sell sheets of pre-cut rivets.
http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-decals-with-raised-3d-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html

>>46232300
Hector looks chalky as fuck.

>>46232348
Not quite what im looking for. Too small for ork conversions

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>>46232352
>Hector looks chalky as fuck.

Doesn't he, though. I actually started painting him *years* ago - that's a 3rd Edition Veteran Sergeant - and didn't bother to go back and strip the old paint job, as I needed the time to paint up the rest of his squad in time for Armies on Parade.

>>46232393
>Hector not even looking at the enemy
>Johnny being told to kill the rest of his squad for being heretics
>Guy on the far left staring off into space
>Guy on the far right looking at something unimportant

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>>46231136
The helmets are supposed to be white

>>46232300
The photo quality is way bad, they dont look that blotchy irl, but the paints is liquitex acrylics, humbrol acrylic gunmetal and then this gloss acrylic black. The brushes are a tamiya #2 for base coat black and then idk the brand name but im using a toothpick fine tip brush for the rest. This is how my first attempt looked

Anyone got pics of well done scratch built stuff? Or how to's? I'm considering scratch building mech legs but I'd like some reference material. It's hard to find good scratch builds online

>>46231680
Get some plasticard and a Leather Punch, just like a pair of pliers but will let you make rivets.

>>46218522
The clear coat will help a bit with that adding some glossyness. But even then the original badges were the only ones that were 3d, and even then it's been retconned and all badges are flat and metal.

>>46231655
Any plans on adding more dakka?

>>46232606
>Any plans on adding more dakka?

Its got 4 big shootas int he front and a killkannon in back. Its as much dakka as a battlewagon can take

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I want to convert picture related into something akin to a Floater from Xcom. Any tips from what set I could get good jetpacks parts that would be suitably industrial in appearance?

>>46232665
I had noticed the cannon, but didn't spot the shootas.

>>46226606
Homeworld will be a desert, so i like the idea of a tan actually

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>>46232690
A picture of a floater for reference.
I basically want to remove the treads, and ad a bunch of rockets and a jetpack onto the torso.
I just need to know from where I can find suitable bits.

>>46232534
Anon, you're hurting my eyes. You keep doing this. Being a novice painter is fine; keep at it and you will get better. Continuing to post blurry, useless images is pathetic.

Rest the camera on something so you're not holding it in your shaky hands. Turn on macro mode. Use the timer function so the camera is perfectly still when it goes off. These are easy things to do. DO THEM.

>>46227679
If I can source another head without a helmet I would do it, [s]I might even do it on a skull[/s] I would absolutely do it on a skull.

>>46232748
I acknowledge my failed attempt at strikethrough text.

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>>46232710
Don't forget a fez or two.

>>46232820
Hell yeah anon, now we're talkin! Gonna look for some 28mm fez's.

>>46232735
My camera cant do any of that. If it could then i wouldnt be posting bad pics. Sorry bout that.

>>46232854
http://meridianminiatures.com/eastern-heads-b

>>46232934
What kind of camera do you have? Cellphone?

>>46232975
Nice, i will build upon their presently feeble mustaches

Just watched a painting tutorial on painting plague zombies and they played Astro Zombies by the Misfits over the top of it.

Great respect.

>>46232934
Is it a camera from 1940? It has no timer? No macro mode? It can't be set on the fucking ground?

No, anon. It takes digital photos. It can do all those things. You don't know how to use your camera, because you're a moron, and you're too lazy to figure it out. Spend 5 minutes and learn to use your camera before you post another one of your useless blurry ugly images.

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>>46232133
kinda junky job I did before, and am trying to improve on with the new ones.

>>46206915
Use cork. It looks like stone without looking like you sifted through your garden for stone. Bud of mine used cork forba skullcannon base. Like an altar. Fantastic.

>>46206915
Vallejo (or GW) texture paint.

>>46233399
How do you glue a miniature on cork? Superglue? Will it be durable compared to gluing it onto plastic?

>>46233573
The cork will tear before the glue does. If it's thinner cork then you don't need to worry too much, otherwise you'll want to pin the model to the base through the cork.

>>46233618
thanks.

>>46206230

I've been watching the development of this and it gets more sextoy-y with each photo.

10/10, would camwhore with.

>>46211873
I have heard of using a kettle and boiling water to melt the fused plastic glue. Don't know if true or not.

>>46208447
...bread crumb golem?

>>46232534
>Liquitex and Humbrol paints

Let this be a lesson to you stupid poorfags who think "miniature paint" is "too expensive" at $3-4 a bottle.

>>46233696
It will but will also ruin the mini

>>46233696
Am I just weird then...? I was able to snap a model's arm off after using plastic glue months ago without issue.

Sounded like a fucking gunshot though.

>>46231830
That converted Dark Apostle looks pretty based. Where's the head from?

>>46233905

The joint probably wasn't smothered with plastic glue so some gaps still existed, and the parts were fused together only in certain spots.

So you only tore apart the fused spots. If you fully glue the joint with no gaps, that shit is welded for life. Tearing it apart is literally like tearing a single piece of plastic in two. You might snap at the seams and you might just rip a chunk off the torso.

>>46233999
I must not be putting enough glue on then.

Still didn't expect it to be so loud.

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Still plugging away at this death guard infantry. Just backpacks and bases to go.

>>46234099
Speaking of. Has anyone used the Forge World Death Guard conversion kit? Is it worth it? I want my DG to look full Nurgle, but l could just buy another box of Plague Marines and kit bash them.

I'm also buying a load of Zombie bits to turn my cultists into plague Zombies to use with Typhus.

I need more paints...

Any tips for painting drop pods?

I'm planning on painting the entire fifth company of my homebrew chapter because reasons and I need to paint a lot of drop pods.

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>>46232534
>the paints is liquitex acrylics, humbrol acrylic gunmetal and then this gloss acrylic black
>>46233734
>Let this be a lesson to you stupid poorfags who think "miniature paint" is "too expensive" at $3-4 a bottle.

Harsh, but *so* true.

Look, anon, Liquitex is good enough paint if you're an art school student painting on canvas, although I can think of a couple of professor from my art college days who would give me shit even for that. If you can afford tube of Liquitex, you can afford bottles of the stuff we use, be it Vallejo, GW/Citadel, or P3.

Michaels may be OK for buying some of your supplies - particularly, you can get some good affordable brushes if you buy them with a 40% of 50% off coupon - but it is not the place you want to be buying paint to go on plastic Space Marines.

>>46233038
Wow dude its a cellphone camera. Byt hey you can obviously read my mind or something to make all those assumptions

>>46232992
Im using my lg leon as a camera, saving up for a dslr camera. My phone gimped out on a lot of features to meet its $80 price. So for the camera theres no focus or hdr setting

>>46233734
Most of my paints ran me about $11-15 a tube, humbrol was like $5 a bottle. Not really a poorfag since my trips to get supplies run me about $70 to $100

>>46234818
Then why the fuck are you using such shit paints if you could clearly afford good ones?

>>46230498
Giant sunglasses when?

>>46220568
square and play KoW

>>46234793
>>46234858
Where i live i cant ship certain paints. Theyre good for airbushing. Im gonna see if i can get gw paints

>>46233927
>Where's the head from?

Kromlech. Stygian Noble Heads.

>That converted Dark Apostle looks pretty based.

Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

>>46235136
>anon doesn't know what based means
are you from the past?

>>46234951

Running those paints properly thinned through an airbrush will help so much. Right now the results they're giving you are pure garbage.

You need to them them a LOT to make them not gunk up a tiny miniature, and when they are that thin, their coverage is piss poor and you don't want to spend hundreds of hours doing 10+ layers plus all that drying time each layer just to get one solid coat of red or whatever.

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My wip dreadknight coming along

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>>46235521
Not sure how to paint the little ruined thing in front. Just dawnstone?

>>46235180
He might be an old veteran of the hobby.
>>46235136
Based means good anon, badass even.

>>46235136
>>46235180
>He might be an old veteran of the hobby.
Correct, been in it since 1991 (although with a sizeable break in between).

>Based means good anon, badass even.
I thought it was that or gay, haha.

>are you from the past?

We are all from the past ;)

>>46235422
Thats what happened with the first attempt was too thinned paint, this attempt i used a palette and guess didnt thin enough. I am gonna try to use my airbrush to give it a red base and paint the rest on, only problem i might have would be the gold parts

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>>46235590
it was actually coined by Lil B "The Based God" to mean someone who doesn't give a fuck about what other people think of them and when he became a meme incarnate 4chan started using it to describe anything that was good

>>46235878
>been in it since i was negative 4 years old

i feel so alienated being the youngest player in my group and it seems that extends to here

>>46236277
any somewhat established community is going to have a decent spread of ages represented

When I started in '97 we had young kids and old farts painting toys and playing games at the local. That's remained a constant in every store I frequent for any decent amount of time. So long as you find laser guns and dragons cool, you're good.

>>46235180
/tg/ is one of those boards with a super-specialist interest that kind of almost cuts itself off from the rest of 4chan """culture""". there are probably even people here who've never read the word "cuck"

>>46236357
I wouldn't mind /tg/ being more cut off to be completely honest

>>46236357
Probably because most of the people here are, on average, older, and the "entry level" of knowledge for the board is much more important than /v/ or, god forbid, /b/. It takes much longer to get into TTRPG and wargaming than a video game that you start and play right away.

>>46236347
huh
im 20 and all the guys at my store are 30+
shitty part about living in a small town with ~10k people in it

>>46236485
This is my favourite board from the get go I have never properly played any /tg/ games except maybe dragon pass

>>46236277
>yfw you will be forever young, because when you think you're an "adult" at 18 or 21 or 22 and graduating college, all the people who have been there and done that are 24, 27, 30, etc and realize they themselves are still kids

SHUTUP AND GET IN LINE, KID

>>46236561
damn it anon

at least i'll feel older than my little brother....

that reminds me

what ork models you would guys suggest getting for a 12 year old to start practicing on? he wont let me help him do anything but buy them

>>46236595
Rrgular chaos space marines. Let's you be creative with chaosy stuff while simultaneously being a trash unit, so it won't matter if he messes up.

>>46236595
Litteraly a box of standard boyz. Simple as fuck, but still a shitload of bitz to make him his own.
Tell his to remember the basic rules, thinning, not too much paint on the brush, no glueing before everything is painted, take time, be patient, and let him paint at least 2 guys ar the same time, so that he can vary what he does and do not need to wait apart from applying washes. I suggest he does his flesh highlights with drybrushing and a lahmian medium diluted wash over it, muuuuch easier to do when you're a beginner than layering where you lose yourself where you should and shouldn't apply the paint.
And put him in front of Duncan's videos. At least the one for the new kids starter set, even if it is not complete.
Now that I think of it, that starter set would be perfect for him!

>>46236595
>what ork models you would guys suggest getting for a 12 year old to start practicing on?
AoBR nobs

cheap as chips on ebay, huge and easy to paint

>>46236595
>>46236696

Found the thing. Seems like it's only in the US and Canada though.

>>46236833
I'm a retard.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Vedros?_requestid=812096

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>>46232486
That, my friend, is what I call an A-team.

I'm really fond of those times when each sculpt had their on personality, as goofy as they could be.
I really need to have at least one squad with oop models. Maybe even a Johnny

>>46234818
Really? I have used my an LG Leon to take these >>46217871 >>46217856 , and as shitty as the camera may be, it is still 8mp. If you took a fucking minute to do proper lightning and put your phone down you'd get half decent pics.
Also, just don't get all ruffled up because people are giving valid criticism, you'll live longer ;)


Now, back on topic, WIP of my second model, since I wasn't trying a fuckton of different techniques this one came out cleaner.
I also gave him some highlights under the wash layers that look good IRL, other than that, he's also highlighted via chipping on his armour.
Did some OSL experiment on the lenses. came out a bit thick but I think that after a model or two it'll start looking better.

As always, critique is appreciated. :^)

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Just putting the finishing touches on this Chaplain, got a big game on Sunday. I think I may have messed up the edge highlighting, also tried to keep my paint thin to keep all the details crisp.

>>46237338
chaplains wear black armour, dummy

>>46237397
Shit! I knew something was off, good thing I have till Sunday. Better go throw this into some acetone. Good looking out, no-fun-allowed Anon!

>>46237338
>>46237338
First of all, resize your picture, asshole

Now that we've dealt with that, I must say I really like the smooth colour you achieved, but as >>46237397 said, chappies wear black armour.

Also, try putting some matte varnish over those decals so they blend in better. That and a nice base and I'm thinking that's a golden demon runner up.

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>>46237177

I have a question, for the holsters and pouches I really can't decide which ones to use. I really like the leather coloured ones, but at the same time, the less vivid, greyish ones look kinda good as well, so, /wip/, I ask you, which ones shall I use?

Pic related

>>46237774

Black looks better on models. Brown is the official scheme.

If you paint your bolters and chainswords black, use the black leather. If not, like you use red or hazard stripes or some other color, use leather.

>>46237774
what colours are the rest of your marines?

>>46237177
I did set up my lightbox and followed the pic taking guide. Im gonna try and switch my lightbulbs from the "warm light" bulbs to something more whiter to see if it helps. Also for the "set phone down" if i do that then i still get bad quality
>inb4 im just making excuses

>>46237820
Black, they're >>46237177 these Laddies.

>>46238704

Brown pouches will show up better.

>>46232690
The space marine jump packs that they use in HH could work. Ad mech seems like a hard army to convert since the kits have so many details to begin with and very little space to add anything onto. Anyone have pics of some good ad mech conversions?

>>46232690
I'm going to make nurgle obliterators out of those models. Damn they are nice

>>46232133
Liquid greenstuff wouldn't work too well, its basically the same as texture paints

>>46239191
post pics when you do please. Planning of doing a second squad of 3 oblits but using those ad mech guys instead of centurions and would love to see what other people do with it.

>>46239191
>>46232690
I want to make grot tanks with them.

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Hey WIP first of all i dont even know if this is the right place to post this, but i didnt want to open a new thread so anyways let me ask some stuff about starting in painting.

I have got myself this starter kit for 3 space marines that includes some basic paints for them + a brush, i have informed myself about wet palate and the basic steps at my "local" table top shop i live in a rural area and have to dirve 2 hours to get to it, i have read about wet pallete and other stuff.

but my real problem is kinda the fear of fucking this all up, so i need some tips for a real begginer and im sorry again if this is the wrong place to post this but i need some advice before is start or maybe some youtubers that can rope my along on my first mission to paint these, i couldnt really find anyone that went into detail.

Sorry for the long blog post i will stop nowplease be gentle i really want to get into this hobby

>>46239563
I know it's sort of a meme in these threads, but Duncan's videos on the official GW youtube channel are fantastic for learning the basics of painting. Do you know what chapter you want to paint?

>>46239610
i only have those paints here that are for the ultramars colors, so i guess i will do those, my first project here is mainly for trying this hobby out

i kinda want to start to with orks anyways but this starter kit looked nice and a good start with the paints already included. And the marines are a nice decor anyways

also thanks already

>>46239563

If you really want to have your first 3 minis shine do this:

Make a shopping list, and find out where to buy what using the internet. Resist the temptation to buy everything at your local tt shop. You will have lots of spare € later on to reinvest in more minis that way.

Your minis look like you know how to assemble stuff. I don't see any bigger errors or smudges of glue, besides the bits of sprue on the bases.
Go on and use your hobby knife to remove them, and scrape away any other moldlines.
You WILL see them after painting.

You seem to be a germanfag, so you don't have any problems getting Revell Contacta, if you don't use that already.

Pick up a small drill and drill those bolter barrels. using a 1mm drill bit works for both openings on the bolter barrel, the side one and the one towards the front. Drill the side ones first, because the drill gets guided by the premodelled openings, then do the main barrel.

After that invest some time into learning how to do a spray can base coat.
GW, Army painter and any other hobby brand will do, as well as most hardware store brands. Pick a nice color, black or white are standard, and work in most cases. If you go for quantity over quality you might want to buy the base color of your army, for example blue for your ultras.

Think about the bases and how you want em.
You can use glue and sand or stones, model intricate stuff on em or just do a simple method I prefer: Pick up a big can of acrylic structure paste from your local art or hobby store store. Put it on the base using a popsicle stick or toothpick, smear it around until it looks organic, done. This will dry in about 30 mins, after which you can easily paint it, and cures after a day or so. No wasted time on doing coats of glue, sand, glue, sand...

Now it is time to paint your space dudes. The tones from the set might be enough, later on you might invest into other tones you might need on most other models.

>>46209262
You should build a full on watch tower on one of these.

I had a old orc and goblin fantasty codex with a nice fucking watch tower that would look hilarious as fuck as a siege tower on this base

>>46230498
But how are you gonna transport nobs to assau.....pffft hahaha im sorry, i couldnt even finish that. Yeah it might as well not be able to transport anything.

>>46239563

>>46239775
cont.

Don't waste money on brushes. Get 1-2 "main" brushes you will use for 90% of the model, and a few others to use for dirty jobs which will destroy brushes.

Your main brushes should be big enough to hold enough paint, don't start using detail brushes. You don't need those until you know how to handle the bigger ones.
Also get 1-2 small drybrushes with a broad head. These can be cheap, because they will break sooner or later.
Your local hardware store should have cheap synthetic brushes somewhere for around 1-2€ per piece. Get some in different sizes.
Back at the hobby store pick up 1-2 bigger watercolor brushes for washes.

I personally prefer Army Painter "Regiment" for common tasks, because they have the perfect size for standard models and keep a nice tip, so you can do small stuff like marine eyes without any probs.
Learn how to care for your brushes (even the "throw away" ones).

Now start painting your marines. Go from "bottom to top", so deep layers first. Paint the bolters in a single color, then add details and secondary tones later. Pick out details of the whole model.
Do a simple edge highlight.
Learn to wash.
After the main coat but before any highlights do the eyes first, then clean up with your highlight tone after that. Quick and easy method for nice eyes. A small quantity of wash will put a border between the lense and the eye socket, making em pop, but don't wash the whole lense.

Metallics: One layer of metallics on most nonmetallics isn't enough in 99% of the cases, so start by applying another fitting layer first. You can use a standard brown for gold, then 2 layers of gold after that, or you can do one layer of silver (which will be spotty) and a second one of gold (silver might shine through here and there, but this is a nice and fitting effect for marines)

Finish the base, do the base rim last.


Any more questions?

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>>46239775
>Your minis look like you know how to assemble stuff.

man thanks for that compliment but this is a starter pack so no glueing was required, there are only 5 parts per marine that stick together nicely on there own.

also thanks for all these recomandations, this already helps a lot

also how did you guess my german heritage

>>46239861

Not him, but the calendar in your first pic has the German names for days on it.

>>46231830
The two silver ones hand postions make me think they saying shit like
>woah bud lets calm down here
And
>the fuck is this shit

>>46235521
>>46235537
Your paint scheme will never not be cool to me

>>46237338
Im angry you didn't make this into a dread

>>46235521
this is almost making me not hate the model

>>46235521
needs huzar wings

>>46235521
is that the spire of a church on the base?

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>>46240131

>>46239563
One thing before you start: Get a hobby knife and carefully scrape away (maybe use the the backside of the blade of you are uncertain) all the mold lines on the miniatures.

For example, on your pic the left marine has a line across the muzzle of his bolt pistol.

You might think that this is tedious (it is) but these lines will be extremely noticeable after you applied paint.

>>46239775
>Think about the bases and how you want em.

The starter kit he bought actually comes with texture paint for the base i think.

>>46239861
You want to glue that marine together nontheless.

Also, get a hobby knife and clean the spots where you cut (or broke) the parts out of the sprue.

>>46239785
Putting meks inside of it for repairs are why it has transport capacity.

>>46240256
yes thats the case

>>46240269
>>46240247
>>46239857
>>46239775
thanks thats very helpfull advice i think i will go out tommorow or order a hobby knife so i can start on those moldlines and use some tips from you, maybe you will hear from me again in some days again when i made some progress so long and stay awesome

>>46240304
One more thing: You might have seen that GW (and other "hobby" companies) sell stuff like glue, knifes, drills and all sorts of special hobby tools.
Dont buy these. They are extremely overpriced.
Just get regular tools from an hardware store or get them cheap from ebay.

Just to prove my point, compare the two links:

https://www.games-workshop.com/de-DE/Citadel-Präzisions-Kunststoffseitenschneider

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Elektroniker-Seitenschneider-125mm-klein-und-handlich-/231880027742?hash=item35fd206e5e:g:8a8AAOSwwE5WYu9G

German links since you seem to be german. If not, you will find the stuff elsewhere too.

Get revell contacta. Its a good glue. If the nozzle ever gets clogged (it will), just hold a lighter at it until you notice a small bit of smoke and a "puff"-sound coming from the tip. then its clean again.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/REVELL-39604-15-80-100g-CONTACTA-PROF-PLASTIKKLEBER-FLUSSIG-25g-/390899571353?hash=item5b036e1a99:g:9EcAAOSwQItULp9b

If you aren't familiar with plastic glue: One or two little drops are enough to melt 2 parts of plastic together.

>>46240335
Did you even read the related answers and >>46240304 ?

Regurgitating much?

>>46235537
Something more religious.

>>46239236
Haven't even started my nurgle army yet but when I do I will be in every WIP thread dont you worry

>>46239292
That sounds sick