WIP General

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>>46180674
Solid scheme, maybe go greener on the skin next time as is the mini is very... red/orange, all other colours sort a drowns in it, the yellowy tint in the skin make sit hard for it to stand out.

Shoulder skull looks a bit sloppy, pretty sure the spike isn't supposed to be bone as well.

>>46180717
Ah, that's why my search for WIP didn't show any results.

Repostan tank also.

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Far left is WIP. The rest are finished (except cleanup and bases)

I'm putting chapter specific stuff on each backpack, anyone got any ideas for the space shark on the left?

r8 m8's

>inb4 add a sharkfin

>>46181039
bretty cool/10

The only thing is as a whole they look very unified and that is because they all either have black shoulderpads, or in the Blood Angel's case, some details in the way of showing some color.
The backpack things really help things though, so that's good.

If you are making more Deathwatch members consider doing some characters with chapters that have vivid colours.

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Poor, poor color test letter and his sword.

I tried drybrushing the edges of the black, then glazing it a million times to smoothen the transition, but I'm still not a fan. Looks really good from a distance of 1m or more, but closer it falls apart. It's a lot brighter in real life though, phone camera sucks up all the color.

>>46180856
Das kawaii. I'm working on a couple scratchbuilt grot tanks right now. How many are you bringing in your list?

>>46182139
None, just had bits left over, gonna tag along after a bigger version build from Battlewaggons tracks and turret.

The big shootas' pretty much the worst weapon option for grot tanks anyway.

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Reposting from last night. What are some things I should look to change before my next searg? Or the paint scheme in general

>>46182303
Looks like the wash pooled a little on his right pauldron, gonna want to make sure you clean up the washes on your other dudes. He might also have a dot of white paint on his mouth grill?

>>46182303
Maybe do a little different colour on the winged skull on the helmet.

And not sure if the red eyes are working.

>>46182367
I'll remember to look for those things next time, thanks
>>46182417
I was worried about both of those, what do you think would be a good color for any of the aquillas that find themselves up against the bone?

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my first finished mini, advice appreciated on how to improve it.

>>46182608
Solid scheme, maybe go greener on the skin next time as is the mini is very... red/orange, all other colours sort a drowns in it, the yellowy tint in the skin make sit hard for it to stand out.

Shoulder skull looks a bit sloppy, pretty sure the spike isn't supposed to be bone as well.

>>46182548
Maybe gold like his amulet.

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Still a ways to go on the demi-squad, but they're at the point where I can set them aside and work on something else for a change of pace.

So close to being able to base and play with these assholes.

>>46182835
Man, get some goblin green and flock on those bases and it'll be '95 all over again.

>>46182835
This is so fucking cool dude. I want to do something like this with my old metal models I picked up. Your paint is clean as hell.

>>46182872
The rims will be, at least. Terrain features in the middle of flock look a bit strange, so they'll probably end up looking more late 3rd edition-y.

>>46183052
Go for it, dude. It's surprisingly fun, and I imagine it would be even more fun with classic pewter and lead.

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>>46182648
Thanks! i agree with the orange on the skin, went a bit overboard, ill see if i can tone it down a bit. The spike is metal in color but the light hitting it makes it look almost white. Fixed the skull.

A group photo of still WIP nobs, except for the left most, the last pic is close up on the necrotic flesh i painted, critique?

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>>46180856
Grot tanks are ace, here's an old wip of mine!

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Infinity Haqqislam Azra'il

Purchased and being painted for my brothers Birthday

>>46183618
that necrotic flesh is pretty sweet

>>46182872
>tfw was born in '95 and didn't get into the hobby until 2015

kill me

>>46183645
that is some pretty noice work there anon.

>>46183749
I have a bunch of 90s goblin green pots. $50 for one ;)

>>46183775
I don't like green.

I'm mostly just lamenting I didn't get to experience the evolution of the hobby and only know its current state.

My dad always said tabletop shit was for shutins so he wouldn't let me do anything related to it.

>>46181425
Looks really good desu

>>46183852
Your dad sounds like a grot.

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Help me /wip/, you're my only hope.

I want to make a unit of 6 Ogre maneaters as the capstone to my army.
As you can guess from the photos, I want them to be cowboy gunslingers. Each ogre will be carrying 2 pistols.

This means that I need to get 12 pistols, 6 cowboy hats, and 6 ponchos, all of which need to look decent on an ogre.

I'm assuming that It would be easiest to get parts from dolls, but I'm unsure what doll has a scale that works.

So /wip/, where can I find pistols, ponchos, and cowboy hats to fit ogres?

I'm actually thinking of getting a fulls sized poncho/a scarf and just cutting squares from it, would that work?

>>46184631
He was an asshole and I'm glad he's gone.

>>46184710
As in you want to have the actual poncho be on your model?

How would you plan to keep it held down?

>>46184733
gravity?

I would put it on after I painted, and a tiny amount of glue around the neck so that it doesn't fall off completely.

It's a lot easier than GS'ing a poncho.

The cowboy hats are my main concern.

>>46184904
Get some plasticard and use greenstuff to make the hats.

>>46184733
Gone? He dead or something?

>>46185029
No, decided he didn't want to be our dad anymore and found himself someone else.

Anyways, I have an actual /wip/ themed question.

I want to magnetize my assault terminators so I can switch between LC and TH/SS without needing to make MORE terminators. What size magnets should I use?

>>46185085
3x1 if you magnetize at the shoulders
2x1 at the hands

>>46185149
I feel like at the shoulders would be less dangerous for me, so I'll go with that.

Thanks.

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Workin on the dwarf city a bit, barracks got done

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Did up an unmarked Terminator lord. Not too thrilled at my moldlines, not big on my white. But I am happy with the base and cape.

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Inside with the workin fireplace

>>46185278
>huge, obviously Tyranid bits
Paint looks good, but that was the best conversion you could come up with? also moldlines

>>46185325
About a year or so ago I thought about converting some chaos up to ally with nids via warp fuckery or soemthing. Didn't like the idea, but not until after this one. Definitely could have been better. Like putting a sword in a mutalith tongue bit- fleshy tentacle thing.
It is magnetized, though.

>>46185280

Is that the old HeroQuest furniture I spy?

>>46184710
>As you can guess from the photos, I want them to be cowboy gunslingers. Each ogre will be carrying 2 pistols.
There's a maneater with two pistol arms. Might be worth looking into. Maybe you have a way to recast the arms?
>This means that I need to get 12 pistols, 6 cowboy hats, and 6 ponchos, all of which need to look decent on an ogre.
Failing the recasting idea I'd just use muskets, maybe shortened a bit as ogre sized pistols. If you got a buddy who build crossbow men instead of musketeers with his empire dudes ask him for the spare muskets.
For hat I'd look into 54mm/1:32 cowboy hats. Maybe playmobil pieces are the right size. It's been a while since I've had one in my hands.
For the ponchos i'd go with the route people do coverings on tanks etc., i.e. tissue paper soaked in wood glue. If you apply more than one coat it should be quite sturdy.

>>46185939
>For the ponchos i'd go with the route people do coverings on tanks etc., i.e. tissue paper soaked in wood glue. If you apply more than one coat it should be quite sturdy.
Oh, and I just remembered. Some people do stuff like flags or coats from aluminium foil. If you got something in a metal tube like oil paints, tootpaste or mustard you can just use the packaging once you've used it up.
Sturdy enough to keep it's shape, soft enough so you can shape it by hand.

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Some progress on my 2 "Sorcerers of Obliteration" (Obliterators) pictures with my WIP Thousand Sons Sorcerer Lord to give an idea of how these 2 will be painted.

It's kinda my first leap into GS. The guy on the left with the Kai Gun I did first and you can see the robes are a little rougher than the guy on the right. (seen more clearly in the next image).

I believe I will be able to cover most of those flaws up with paint. Maybe he is just a little more lax in in the upkeep of his spell scrolls? He has that sick ass daemon weapon gun to lean on after all.

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>>46186168

Back view.

>>46186168
Looks interesting, but I think you could use a few more guns on them to make it more clear that they are obliterators.

>>46186168
>>46186193

Where'd you get the iron halo? It looks pretty nifty.

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>>46186461
They are sorcerers. They use magics. I believe it is safe to say that the rule of cool is in action here and any reasonable opponent would find "these two sorcerers are Obliterators," followed by an enthusiastic, "they are Sorcerers of Obliteration*," to be enough explanation.

I also do not have any other terminators in my army.

>>46186787
It is from the same model the body is from. The Dark Apostle and is his Sigil of Corruption that gives him a 3++ with the Mark of Tzeentch.

>>46181039
>Brother Ravenguard, you shall strike the xenos from the shadows with your blessed rifle.
>Brother Fleshtearer, you shall eviscerate the xenos with your hallowed blade.
>Brother Blood Angel, you shall cleanse the xenos with your pure and faithful flamer.
>Brother Space Shark, you shall split the xenos in twain with your mighty lightning claw penis.

>>46183618

thin your paint faggot

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Im new to painting, started for the first time this month. I practiced on a few reaper minis before I started on something I really wanted to paint, which are my KDM models. This isn't finished but I was hoping to get some C&C on my dude.
Every part is magnetized, the only visible magnets are the wrist, because if I wanted t drill I would need smaller magnets just for the wrist that wouldn't be very strong.

I think when I try thinning my paints with water, I add too much and it turns into a wash, is 50/50 paint/water okay?

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>>46181039
pic related

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>>46187275
Here is a more recent pic, his right arm still needs skin and I still have to clean up a bit. I have no idea what to do for the base.

>>46185246
Holy hell how are you making that? It looks phenomenal so far anon.
I'm trying to get into making terrain for my D&D games but I just don't even know where to start.

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>>46186168
>>46186193

Some more WIP I am working on for my Thousand Sons warband, The Viziers of the Withering Eye.

These are "Summoning" Sorcerers. The left is The Damned Summoner. The right is the Wolf Brother Summoner. I have a large CSM squad made from Zerkers and Space Wolf bitz, etc that represent enthralled members captured from the disbanded Chapter.

>>46187510
>inb4 'DID YOU CHOP UP A CENTURIUS'

Looking good, but not 100% sold on the greens, it just doesn't tie into anywhere else on the model.

>>46187362

Hot damn that's a big picture.

with regards to the base, assuming they're meant to be stone faces, a simple dark grey basecoat followed by a few successively lighter grey drybrushes should do.

>>46187645
Sorry, I was posting from mobile so I couldn't easily resize.

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Just working on the beards. Got plenty more to do at different colours

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>>46185571
Yessir got the whole game for $10 at a flea market
>>46187494
Yep been working on a whole city. Everything has working lights

http://www.spectreminiatures.com/products/african-militia-alfa

count as shoota boyz?

>>46187275
Hmm... It's promising for an early attempt, and I know it's a WIP; with that in mind, here are my C&Cs:

First, that corded armor could easily be much better. It's got all that sweet sweet texture. Drybrush it, overpaint it, dump a wash on it, or spend a little extra time and manually pick out each bump with a highlight. It will be easy and it'll look fantastic.

Second, the gold is kind of a mess, especially around the neck. I can't really tell what it's supposed to be. Is it fur? Why does he have gold fur? Whatever it is, it needs to be cleaned up and it needs more definition. Fix the spots where the coverage is shoddy (left shoulder has a few, for example), then put a wash over it.

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I'm still not sure what to do with the needle pistol in terms of colour. Perhaps black with purplish edge highlights, silver highlights and dark red gems?

>>46187726
There's plenty of apps for image editing for free on both robot and fruit phones.

>>46187819
Only if your LGS hosts Klan meets on non-game nights.

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>>46185219
Quick picture with shitty lighting, but try and do it like this. You'll probably run out of pauldrons otherwise.

And don't mind the model. I never quite finished it after I stopped playing my Deathwing.

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>>46187813
And the lights in action.

Best place to start us reference photos and an overall idea of what you want to make. Then get you so cellufoam, wood, and maybe a base plasic kit to convert. Go on from there.

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How do I git gud at painting? I've been practicing for over a year and my stuff is still awful...Especially when I see such great work by others being posted on here.

I've tried guides from GW, modelling websites, and the guides that come with the vallejo paints. I can't get my shading or highlighting down no matter how hard I try.

>>46187929
Post your work

>>46187868
So you glued the pauldron to the shoulder joint at an angle that would allow you to quickly slip the arms under it and lock onto the magnet on the joint?

>>46187621

>>inb4 'DID YOU CHOP UP A CENTURIUS'

Haha thanks!

Something to consider, thank you. It is however how all the other Thousand Sons Sorcerers will have their force weapons done and the idea is that green will tie them together. These guys are red to distinguish them from the Sons. They are not Sons and are more mercenaries/slaves. Green is a complementary colour to all the main colours so that is why I chose it. Thanks again for your input, that is just my reasoning.

>>46187876
nnnnneeeeeeeaaaaaaatttt!!!

>>46187929
Just keep paiting anon. I'm also over a year in hobby and still consider my recent works awful, but I see it as room for improvement.

As for shading, you can't go wrong with citadel washes, they're great. Important thing is re-applying base colour AFTER washing, so shaded areas stand out more, and blend form dark to light is more natural.

As for highlights, I think good brush is a way to go. I have whole set AP brushes, but non of them works for me when it comes to details and I just paint 95% of my stuff (including edge highlights, muscles, teeth/claws) with old large brush form GW I bought when I was starting my hobby.


And also:
My paintjob never looked like one form GW tutorials (neither form YT nor form pdf guides) eventho I followed them step by step - wash pooled diffrently, drybrush left some strange marks etc. So at some point I just started using it to get a general idea what steps should I take.

>>46187929
Practice.

Watch videos. Duncan is especially good at showing how to get great results in an accessible, non-intimidating manner.

Make yourself a wet palette. They are SO good.

>>46188117
exactly.

Only my heavy weapons are magnetized at the shoulder though. The other few I would regularly swap around have theirs at the hands.

For your Assault termis you'll need to fiddle around a bit to find positions that work with both loadouts. Either that or get more pauldrons from a bits seller.

>>46187831
I'm having a lot of trouble with the corded part, actually, I'm not quite sure how I would highlight it. I was told inbetween the lines would be a solid way to bring out the definition but I'm afraid that I might cover more than I'd intend to. If I was to wash and drybrush, would I go Agrax Wash --> Brown drybrush to bring out the detail? I've actually used a wash on that specific part twice.


For the gold, I'm trying to keep it like a golden/black fur, I feel like it's a lot clearer irl, but my intention is to keep some of the black popping out. If I was to clean it up and lose all the black spots, wouldn't a black wash dull the gold? He has a rounded neckbrace thing that I'm making gunmetal, I'll try to define it a bit more.

>>46188245
Might just get some extra pauldrons so I don't risk fucking that up.

>>46187868

How did you do your OSL? I want to do a dull gow but all the tutorials have blinding stare-into-the-sun glow.

Is it just white with the right color of shade?

>>46188381
I did it the simplest way possible.

On the Plasma Cannon a very light drybrush of warpstone glow and around the eyes it's just a 5:1 glaze of blue.

>>46187813
closer pic of the blue one, plz

>>46188364
The thing to keep in mind if you do it that way is that you'll want to create some sort of nub or other way to fix the arms in position so they don't just rotate down.

>>46188570
That's true... or I could use some super strong magnets... nah I'll make something to catch it.

>>46188325
A wash would definitely dull down the gold. This is not a bad thing: you want the gold in the lower recesses to be duller; it gives it some interest and definition. After the wash, come back with the gold again and just hit the higher points where you want the gold really shiny.

So you've washed the corded armor already, huh? It barely shows. The wash must be too similar to the base color. You might try again with a darker wash, or forget the wash and try highlighting. A drybrush of a a nice light brown/tan would be good, but be careful not to hit the surrounding areas with it. Overpainting would work great, too. That's like a drybrush, but less so, if you understand. You get most of the paint off the brush (but not as much as for a true drybrush), then you run it over the area, and the raised parts pick up the paint and the recesses don't. You just pass over it - you don't whip the brush back and forth like you would for a drybrush.

>>46188619
>>46188570

If your parts can be moved by gravity your magnets are shit or you're magnetizing a titan. Use rare earth neodymium magnets.

Hey lads.

I'm a lazy piece of shit.

I'm using Army Painter's Dragon Red for the main body of my SM, while using their Matte Black for stuff I want to be black. I'm doing this because I'm a lazy bitch who doesn't want to basecoat.

Is there a better solution?

>>46183715
Looks good and clean so far.

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>>46182835
There's something thatmakes your style easily recognisable but I can't put my finger on it.

Is it the black outlines on the models? Like pic related? If yes, how do you do it?

>>46188840
Alright, I'll give it a shot, I got work for now though so I'll come back with the results later tonight.

For the corded part, I think Ill wash in black instead of earthshade. If that doesnt work I'll try the overpainting style.

>>46189060
Army Painter matt black spray is shit. It is not even remotely matt.

>>46187876
This is ridiculously great.

>>46189179
Oh, really?

Balls.

What black spray should I pick up then?

>>46189179
>Army Painter matt black spray is shit.

What is this nigger even talking about-

>It is not even remotely matt.

Welp, he's right.

It's a great spray and a great black but it's very satin. Just spray AP anti-shine or Testors Dullcote on it and get some awesome teflon matt texture that feels like silky sandpaper. I hate Vallejo's matte varnish since the polyurethane resin mix takes forever to actually cure (not dry, but cure) and feels smooth and rubbery.

>>46189213
God, I dunno. I'm still using my old Armory black spray primer from 10 years ago. It's almost empty. The Army Painter white spray primer is actually good, so I've been using that lately. I hear good things about car primers; I'll probably try that.

>>46189060

The only better solution is airbrushing, and that's still not for lazy people because you have to set up a spray area, connect the hose and traps, and clean the brush afterwards.

For best results for little effort, nothing beats AP sprays. You can get better results but it will take much more effort.

>>46189335
>Armory
Everyone told me that Armory is shit...

>>46189340
I'll just carry on then. I only really want some color on the bastards so my friends don't have to star at grey.

>>46189335

Armory is one of the worst brands. It's the one with comic sans font and the little newspaper comic book viking character with the big nose, right?

Never trust a company that labels their product in comic sans.

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Bashing some Kannonz together, mek gun to the far left for scale.

>>46184631

GROTSON

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Basing. What should I use? I'm thinking of just going pva+flock for that freshly groomed 41st millennium golf course look.

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>>46182872
>Man, get some goblin green and flock on those bases and it'll be '95 all over again.

Way ahead of you, anon.

>>46190511
>even has the old bunker

Glorious.

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>>46190349
Berry nice anon. I like them

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>>46190349
>want mek guns
>Already have too many heavy support slots
Fuck everything

>>46190602
The biggest nerf to orks was making lootas heavy support.

>>46190482
If you can't decide the classic of mud with little flock patches and the occasional masonry chunk or bit of road is always good.

>>46190349
That's a fine use of a trukk right there.

>>46190624
The biggest nerf is the loss of invun saves in close combat. If they just left cybork alone or made the KFF work in cc I could make due with the codex.

>>46190602
I like the cat.

>>46187876
How's everything wired up? Are you using batteries or plugging in to a power supply?

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>>46190482
>I'm thinking of just going pva+flock for that freshly groomed 41st millennium golf course look.

We (>>46190511) will see you there, m8. Tee time is 0800.

>>46190578
>even has the old bunker
>Glorious.

I keep forgetting to scan that beast and put it up here as a PDF. You got one in White Dwarf 169, but they gave you three *more* of them in the Second Edition Warhammer 40000 Battles Book.

>>46181425
Whats the skin recipe?

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>>46190511
Slow clap

>>46183715
you guys are cool. don't go to brussels

In what ratio do you guys typically thin your paint?

I use Vallejo color and small pipette to measure ratio little easier, but can't exactly figure out what would be the ideal ratio.

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>>46190800
>I keep forgetting to scan that beast and put it up here as a PDF.

Well, that didn't take long.

>>46185278
How to do a base like that?

>>46191396
i try to end up with a milk consistency for airbrush, and if that covers well enough for brush painting I go for that too.

>>46191786
Yellow, with (probably) the citadel cracking paint over it- you goop it on thick and it dries with those cracks in it, that show the previous colour through.

>>46191786
Based Duncan's lava base tutorial. difference being I have black crackle paint.
Go to youtube and find it

>>46191786
follow st duncan's ways https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH5C6_TxPr8

Does it matter what kind of soap I use to wash my plastic and resin models with before painting? Any kind of dish or hand soap fine?

>>46191892
>>46191874
>>46191862
thanks guys.

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>>46190765
Really shitty LEDs from michaels. Trying to find a way of hiding them. They're basically just xmas lights I got for a halloween thing
Interior also has inside.
>>46188530

Blue dwarf?

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Starting to build my last battlewagon

This one has to be the biggest to carry my megaboss

>>46191900
dish soap, something meant to cut grease/oil

>>46191932
if you go to a hardware store they'll have crackle putty and you'll get a decent sized jar for about the same for the little pot from GW

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>>46188530
He's not that great up close. not my best OSL effect.

>>46191984
I'm from Brazil
GW is nonexistent for me, all my paints are painters paints meant for canvas
I have no idea what crackle putty is

>>46191984
Thanks.

>>46192101
search crackle paste, any hardware store will have it. It's normally used for making something look antique

>>46192169
nice thanks

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>>46189087

>>46192348
or you can just.. use paint

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Third broadside in my set, she looks good so far. Gona start shading soon.

>>46192348
Is it some kind of recess wash/shade equivalent?

>>46192696
Those are fineliner pens- I picked one up recently for writing legible scrawl on some parts of minis, but he's suggesting blacklining everything by drawing around them with the pens.

I need your help, /WIP/

Pic related, how do I stop stuff from being overly shiny and/or look like it was dragged through shit after washing it?
I primed with white, and then did the following:
3 layers of thinned sombre grey.
layers of thinned gunmetal on the metal, and thinned admech grey on the tires.
Vallejo black was in the recesses and across flat surfaces.

I'm doing something really, really wrong here I'm sure, but I don't know what.
The recesses and details are far too small for me to reliably pick out with the wash; but I'm sure it's something simple like thinning the wash before applying it.

>>46192734
It might become a savior to me with muh Word Bearers project going around.

>>46193123
Not sure without an image, but how about trying powder?

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>>46193123
>Forgot pic
end me

>>46193150
Powder?

>>46193177
Paint over with medium?
Drybrush with the pre-wash colour?
Matt Varnish?

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>>46193123
>how do I stop stuff from being overly shiny

I use this stuff.

>>46193123
>Add shitload of wash
>Pick excess with tissue paper

>>46193265
>Paint over with medium?
I don't quite understand what you mean, sorry.
>Drybrush with the pre-wash colour?
That's what I tried to do, but didn't end up looking quite right. Maybe just give the flat surfaces a slightly heavier dry brushing?
It doesn't help that the wash is just thick enough that it ends up actually gumming up some of the smaller recesses.
>Matt Varnish?
Maybe, I could definitely try it, but I'd prefer to know if there's a way to keep inks and washes from looking shiny right out the gate, or if that's just an inherent property.

>>46182608
Use less paint when you dry brush, especially the metals and build to the top color gradually. The movement from the dark green to the lightest needs another step or two to look natural.

When doing bones and horns the tips or projections should be more white or yellow, not brown or orange. One looks aged and dry, the other looks dipped in mud.

I like where you were going on the banner's horns, but it doesn't look right. Get a nail clipping from a dog with black nails and you'll see ho that transition should look on the inside curve. Also wouldn't hurt to hit them with some hard coat. That will add some shininess to the material and make ot look harder like nail or horn.

Overall, the techniques are present but you need practice.

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>>46193192
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/search/label/powder

Something like this, on his leg and stuff?

>>46193296
Huh, I didn't know they made it like that. I'll definitely give it a try, thanks!

>>46193303
Also a good idea, I'll give that a go on my next attempt.

>>46193334
You would use acrylic medium, which is basically paint without any pigment in, to paint over the panels again. Should give the same finish as paint.

Your easiest bet is probably spray matt varnish, but don't use Purity Seal because that stuff is godawful.

Thinning your washes would probably help with them obscuring the detail in the finer recesses.

>>46193354
>>46182608
I think with the horns the problem might be painting around the horn, instead of along it- painting along in thin lines would help blend the transitions a lot.

>>46193404
>You would use acrylic medium, which is basically paint without any pigment in, to paint over the panels again. Should give the same finish as paint.
Ah, that makes sense. What about the "covered in oil/mud/shit" effect that comes from the panels being washed? Just make sure to dab them off with a tissue, and then go over with the medium?
Should I mix the medium with a small bit of the paint, rather than just going clear?
>Your easiest bet is probably spray matt varnish, but don't use Purity Seal because that stuff is godawful.
Good to know, I'll probably grab the army painter one.
>Thinning your washes would probably help with them obscuring the detail in the finer recesses.
Is clean water fine to thin washes with, or should I use a proper medium?

>>46192504
looks like he's shredding a sick tune

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>>46190511

Always good to see the old Razorback. If only I could find my Lascannon/Plasma variant. Pic related, but not my own.

>>46193454
You could literally paint the panels again with the paint- your layers should be thin enough for that not to make a big difference to the finish.

Water is fine for thinning washes up to a point, but at a certain threshhold they will stop acting properly and start leaving tide lines because the surface tension is messed up. Investing in a medium (they're actually pretty cheap) is a good idea generally.

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>>46189087
>Is it the black outlines on the models?
I dunno? You tell me.

>how do you do it?
Some black from the undercoat, a wash, even a bit of watered down chaos black if the highlights really mess up.

The brighter your highlights, the less you kind of have to care about getting black in the recesses. The shading on the chest eagles is just solid Mournfang with a Nuln wash, as an example (like in this pic). You just can't really tell because the bright yellow layers I added afterwards makes the shading seem darker than it is.

I'm not sure how sigmarine knight anon did his, but I'd wager it was just careful basecoating and layering to leave those dark lines. Or going in afterwards with some watered down black and a brush with a decent point. You can see a couple of slight irregularities if you look really closely.

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>>46193582
>Always good to see the old Razorback. If only I could find my Lascannon/Plasma variant. Pic related, but not my own.

In have a couple with the plasma guns, but the only one that's actually painted is the lascannon variant. Hard to get motivated to paint something [else] that's not worth its points in 7th Edition.

>>46193602
>You could literally paint the panels again with the paint- your layers should be thin enough for that not to make a big difference to the finish.
I think I'll try to wipe off excess wash as its drying, followed by one or two thin layers on the plates. I really just want nice, clean armor.

>Water is fine up to a point
What should the approximate ratio be, wash:water? 2:1? 3:1? 4:1?

>>46193582
Are you interested in buying one that looks virtually just like this one?

>>46193754
I can't give you numbers, my mixing process is to go with the flow excuse the pun

>>46193926
Fair enough, I'll start out at 2:1 and see how it goes from there. Thanks for all the help, anon!

>>46184710
Update-

After I searched around, I collected everything I needed. Cowboy Hats, ponchos, a guitar for the Musician, etc.

But while I had added the empire handguns to my ebay cart, they sold out before I found the guitar.

What can I use as a set of 12 ogre pistols?

>>46194029
Try a different bitz website?

>>46193296
>mfw I use that exact same brand
>results 99% as nice as Testors
>minimal fogging
>larger and cheaper can

IT'S EVEN JOHNNY APPROVED!

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>>46191975
And a bit more progress

>Want to start a RG legion
>Worried I'm not going do well enough to justify the money
Resin price is so intimidating.

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>>46194807

>>46194721
pretty sweet, though it does just look kind of like crassus at the moment

You'll be obscuring the more distinct land raider panels down the line, yeah?

>>46194858
Ive got plans for it for sure

>>46194819
I don't know shit about Chinaman and I don't want to be a newfag trying to figure it out, so I'll just continue saving portions of my paycheck.

>>46194807
You could consider learning to make moulds and casts of RG iconography, and finding a decent source of a lot of beakies to put on BAC tacticals would go a long way to mitigating some of those costs.

Especially if you GS the iconography yourself, it's not as ethically dubious either, if that's a concern.

>>46194895
just go on ebay mang

Theres always loads of recasts. They wont be the absolute cheapest, thats still Z, but theyll usually be much nicer quality

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Getting closer me thinks

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Somewhat complete cultists, since I recently got Dark Vengeance. I should get a better quality camera, it's hard to see all the small blemishes that I can't perfectly fix.

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Last NL raptor. Saved the champion for last, but wasn't sure about the flesh. I tried for a nostraman look, hence the black eyes. CC?

>>46194895
Chinashit isn't worth it anyway. Forgeworld is the only way to go if you really want to get your project going.

>>46195622
Flesh looks good, if a little chalky, but the gold, blue, and red all look like they were overwashed or like the coverage wasn't good.

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>>46195750
Yeah it's probably a bit if both. I did over wash and the red was giving me a hard time when used on a larger surface area. Though the rest of the squad is over washed as well, and I kinda like the blue so dark it's almost black. Whole squad for reference. I know the pic is garbo. Most of mine are.

>>46196105
There's a pic guide in the OP, you know, and you've only managed to step three of five.

>>46196105
I like the dark blue as well. The ultra yellow gold kind of clashes with it, however--have you considered going for a more brassy tone? Even just a brown/sepia wash over the current color might work. Pic isn't that bad. I wouldn't have commented on the blue or red at all if the gold had better coverage.

>>46196197
Thanks, I'll look into that.

>>46190602
Just run two CADs?

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What I have so far. Vehicles and zombies are next!

Anyone have a problem with paint wearing off from touch on certain parts? Its pretty bad on the feet, and even happened after I applied a clear coat, which I dont understand.

>>46196699
Is it a metal model and did you prime it?

>>46196699
Did you prime, what with, and what were the conditions like?

>>46196699

Is it metal or resin miniature? Or plastic? Did you use primer? What kind?

>>46196699
Addendum: Is it resin, did you wash it?

>>46196618
Nice collection, I do like the multi-legion aesthetic.

I still hate the purple bases- please reconsider and go for a neutral rim

>>46196742
>>46196737
>>46196730
>>46196717
Its a plastic model, I did prime it with some grey primer, and the paint is wearing off with the primer still intact.

>>46196875

You sure it's an actual primer and not some random non-acrylic hardware store spraypaint meant for furniture and buildings? It might even have a paint-repellent surface after it dries.

If you used an actual primer then it's shitty paint if it doesn't stick.

>>46196925
Its the krylon maxx primer, and vallejo paints. I think I might be touching them accidently and getting the oil from my hands on it? I just have to be more careful probably, Though its frustrating.

>>46196798
I definitely might. When I make up my mind on how to base them, I'll most likely repaint the rim to go well with that scheme.

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Been working on some Malifaux terrain, trying to decide on what to use as a primary wall type on some larger buildings I tested out these two ways of making bricks (excuse the slapdash pain on them both), one's cork sheeting with the grout areas cut down the other is foamcore board with the paper removed and bricks drawn on with a pen. I like the look of the cork a bit more.

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>>46197597
And making some doors, first one is going to be for the Malifaux mansion, IE Governor of the Guild mansion.

>>46197597

Cork really gets the effect of the mortar right.

Has a good aged effect too.

Maybe dry brush with green to achieve the look of moss?

>>46197597
Cork does look nicer, but for large areas I imagine the foamcore might be easier.
I think the neater look of the foamcore might work better for a tiled floor.

>>46196989
Unless you're Italian and eating greasy pizza while painting, the oils from your hand shouldn't be enough to fuck up a model.

Just get another primer and try again.

>>46197654
I've forms roll of rubber and Ile that I use for it for that. The foam core is a lot less time consuming but it is possible to be a better looking foam brick if you cut the grout area for then take ampen or pencil through it.
>>46197611
A thin line of super glue and some green flocking does that pretty well.

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First time posting here, im new to wh4k and new to painting miniatures. Im familiar with painting with gunpla, but somewhat suck at handpainting. Planning to watch tutorials on painting em.
Any tips on getting better?

>>46197820
Is this a bigfoot foto?

>>46197834
Be nice

>>46197820
The photo guide in the OP is handy for getting better pictures, although I think in this case you just need to get closer.

If you do end up taking one pic per mini, just use paint or similar to make them into a collage- it makes the thread much neater, and it's easier to follow replies to you.

As it stands, your picture's blurriness makes it hard to give concrete feedback.

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Assembled my first ever model

Do i have to clean absolutely every trace of the model being attached to the sprue or does the paint cover it?

>>46197899
Considering you'll be thinning your paints like a good little anon, you can imagine that a good, thin layer of paint does very little to hide imperfections.

>>46197820
looks like shit. youve had more than enough guides lazy as fuck
low energy

>>46197899
It's better if you clean all your mould lines and injection points or else glazes and washes pool around them.

Also, you'll always see them.

>>46197820
This poster nary 20 minutes ago:

>It appears that all I have to paint these models with are tar, nail polish, and wall paint
>Good thing I have my sponge brush or it might be difficult
>Wow this is going WAY faster than I imagined

>>46197899
First lesson anon:

Don't glue everything at once. How are you going to paint properly around the bolter now?
Second: Yes. Erasing moldlines is important. Just do it piece by piece, methodically, when the model is un-assembled, you won't lose yourself the way you would if it is assembled and glued.

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more beards painted, 10 more to go.

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close up

>>46197910
>>46197925
>>46197959

Alright thanks anons.

Yeah i forgot about the bolter kinda covering the chestpiece. Nex time i'll glue the bolter last of all

>>46197955
>>46197919
>Look at me daddy I know more than a complete novice

>>46198025
I recommend you paint weapons covering the torso separately and only glue them on after the whole model is painted.

>>46190594
>President 47

>>46197989
Looking fine, Anon.

>weeks ago
>order the Deathwatch box from GW
>Never arrives
>Check out Why
>UPS
>ohgodno
>UPS claims to have been attempting to deliver the package for five days straight, even though I was home for three of those days, doing nothing and receiving no visitors
>They sent the package back to GW
>Just called GW and they can't do anything else but try to send another one.

I just want my Genestealer cult. The fact that UPS kept lying to me didn't help much either, the fuckers.

>>46198035
There's this concept of planning things out before you do them. People generally have this concept very well handled.

I would expect a first time painter's model to look like >>46186926 Note how the paint is generally in the lines, mild use of washes, at least 3 colors.

The ones painted by the guy you are defending look like the person is actively trying to derail the thread.

Does anyone know a good source of power swords or swords in general? I realised I'm going to need like 30 in the next couple weeks

>>46198128
For what army? Do you need power swords specifically? What scale? What era?

>>46198109
That guy was posting in the 40k general and I told him to seek help here before he did so, in the hopes of his next few models not looking like that.

Ebay horror stories don't happen because first time painters' models look like >>46186926

>>46198135

Sorry completely zoned out there and thought everyone could read my thoughts aha

Just regular space marine power swords, I need loads for my dark angels and loads for my red corsairs. I think power swords are a based weapon.

>>46197862
The only camera i have is my potato-phone, but ill try to make a collage of good shots

>>46198109
Not trying to derail, like i said im not a good handpainter. I need a smaller brush than the one i have, I also may have thinned my paint too much(or not enough) and applied alot. Looking through the pics in the thread i know i need ALOT more practice and improvement inorder to git gud

>>46197602
>IE Governor of the Guild mansion.
you mean a smoking ruin, I take it?

>>46198172
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=space+marine+power+swords&safe=off&tbm=shop

>>46198191
Short of a neurological disorder I cannot fathom somebody coloring outside the lines that hard.

>>46187805
Congrats on playing the best wargaming system currently available! Far too little sbg stuff in these threads

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>>46198099

They're so beautiful, been waiting 20 years for Genestealer cults to come back

>>46198262
9/10 for real man.

>great edge highlighting
>Great flesh tones
>Even made the veins look good
>etc,

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>>46198099

They're so beautiful, been waiting 20 years for Genestealer cults to come back

(now with jpg instead of png)

>>46198109
Honestly, that's not what a first time painter's model looks like at all.
It took me two years to reach that standard as a teenager, and I still see plenty of grown men putting out incredibly shitty paint jobs on their first dozen models.

Pull your head out of your ass and realise that not everyone is as ""gifted"" as your mummy tells you that you are.

I wouldn't be surprised if you're the guy with the church with the amount of arrogance in this post.

>>46198237
Maybe he's never held a brush in his hand before, and his brain is still getting used to the movements?

>>46198262
>>46198277
god, I am jealous.

Maybe I wasn't supposed to have nice things

>>46198237
>>46198307
I have unsteady hands and really suck at hand painting.also was never really good at arts and crafts, im okay witg an airbrush though

Is vallejo primer supposed the clog the shit out of my cheap chinese airbrush or do I need to upgrade?

>>46197820
Get good sable brushes, or at least decent syntethic aquarell brushes from a hobby store. Also try to thin down your paints a little, that gives you more control over the substance itself. It's okay to make mistakes while applying base layers, you just have to fix them afterwards. Shades are skill in a bottle and improve almost any paintjob, especially bright ones. That is all i can say so far, the low resolution makes it hard to go into any more detail. Don't let the haters get you down.

>>46197834
>>46197862
>>46197919
Oh, hey, look at that, the schoolyard bully club is in meeting. How about bashing on starters, you actually try to give some advice? Most of the obvious mistakes you're pointing out are down to lacking equipment and technique, so all you're doing is wasting time here.

>>46198488
> Tell anon to be nice
> Give feedback that blurry picture makes hard to critique
> Schoolyard bully

>>46198550
since he missed >>46197955 the guy probably quoted you instead by accident

>>46198550
>>46198560
Anon got it right, i messed up there, my bad.

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>>46198488
What safe space did you escape from that my slightly snarky 'bigfoot' comment caused your mom to call the Whaambulance?

While skill in painting is of course a matter of practice and ability, you'd assume that people posting pictures of small things on an imageboard know enough to keep said things in focus.

or, for a tl;dr: pic related

>>46198488
if he read the op he would have enough info and not paint like a toddler. like I said low energy...
the op has enough info for models and pictures not to look like crap.
stop accepting lazy bums who cant read

>>46198488
>be a tard
> duur huur how i paiunt
>durr durr i take photo
>post on wip for coment durr
you need to be 18 for this place. his motor skills are of someone who is 10

>>46198606
reading can only get you so far, it's not going to improve fine motor control, it's not going to make him instantly know what consistency his paints should be thinned to, when to wash or how to make proper painting strokes.

Da Vinci didn't learn to paint by reading. Experience and criticism along with your precious reading is how someone can improve.

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>>46198626
I resent that.

I painted this glorious marine when I was 12 with all of the 5 or so colours I had.

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>>46198448
What pressure are you running? I have to up my pressure when I prime with that stuff (@ 15psi at least). You could try thinning it with a bit of Pledge, too (no actual thinners - stuff's supposed to be used straight).

>>46198633
he said he painted gundam before so this is not his first time. then ofcourse you have duncan, and a thousand other painting tutorials.
he is low energy.
sloppy photo. even with a crappy phones from 2006 you get better quality than that.
painting outside lines it seems.
you dont need super motors skills to paint in side the lines.
he has thins pencils look at the right guys tabard.
this is low energy and you hug box enablers allow him to be so pathetic

>>46198687
You can't even format a proper sentence, I don't think you have any right to call someone "low energy"

>you hug box enablers allow him to be so pathetic
No one is telling him they look good like a hugbox would. Instead they're just giving constructive criticism like in >>46198488
I know you love the ebin 4chan culture you read about on ED and /b/, but replying to every post with "lol its shit because i say so" defeats the whole purpose of these threads

>>46197820
I keep coming back to this image.

How did an adult man think this looked good?

>>46198712
>boy I can't wait to tell my internet friends about how much better I am than complete novices

he even fucking said he sucks in the post you're quoting

>>46198644
looks just like mine.
I never bothered to repaint mine either.

>>46198712
I'm pretty sure it's a trolling attempt.

Like the potato-faced retard with the toe-fingers that kept holding his Kriegers next to his face to take selfie-pictures with them.

>>46198712
Genius, he said he thought he sucked at hand painting, and thus doesn't think they look good. Try to keep up, and think before you flail away at the keyboard.

>>46198724
I only kept this guy around to remind me. The rest have a proper paintjob to honour their almost 20 years of service.

>>46198488
Awww, did we hurt your buddy, what a shame. Shitposting like that is what ruins this board and you know you should stop it. Instead of calling for your personal safe space start thinking about how easy it is to actually do a good job on your paintjobs. Read a guide or two and put your back into it. Instead scrubs like that post literal shit in here and what's even worse is that there are actual people defending that bullshit. Here's a free hint: I heard they give reach arounds for free on reddit for folks like you. So get the fuck out of here and, better yet, get off the internet while your at it. Watch your wife get plowed by jamal and denzel and enjoy the show.

>>46198733
why the fuck would it be one?

all he'd get is the standard "thin your paints" shit, while you and your ability to detect "trolling" is what triggered this whole reply chain

>>46198740
>>>/b/

>>46198721
*good enough to post on the internet and not expect a total derailment.

Honestly it is shocking that a person, given so much information and support on this subject, can go in and suck THIS hard at their first try.

An example I would pick is the coloring on the intended piece. If the painter intended a part to be a red, and it is the painter's first time, one would expect a bit of the red creeping on other areas like >>46198644. Instead what we see is just a jabbing at an area and going "yup". Even after 5 models there is no clear desire to improve.

>>46198755
>not expect a total derailment
It never derails a single fucking thread, despite half a dozen models like that getting posted every day

Yes, it's a shit paint job. Yes, there's resources here to improve them. Yes, he should read them and watch videos.
What you should be doing to avoid your dreaded derailment is pointing that out, maybe giving him a tip or two and then moving on with your life instead of constantly coming back and making posts like >LOL IT'S SO SHIT AMIRITE GUISE??

Not that I believe it is a derailment attempt, but this clusterfuck of assholes sure has made it successful at that.

>>46198755
Like ive said alot i really fucking suck st handpainting, seeing how this caused such an uproar, im gonna clean em up and try again.

>>46198772
I plan on watching the tutorial vids for painting them after i read a few guides. Thought it be a lil similar to painting gunpla but i guess not

>>46198772
It's not that it exists in the state that it does now and he has a chance to improve that people are finding funny.

It's the fact that his first model even turned out that bad, as an adult, being aware of the "your first model" resources out there, in the age of the internet, and after investing almost $150 in the kit and another $40 for paints and supplies.

>>46198795
Have you ever gone outside and met other hobbyists? You'd be amazed at how common this exact shit is from beginners. If that's the kind of thing you find funny, I'm surprised you can stop laughing for long enough to actually do anything productive.

I just bought 30 sisters off a fully grown man and they were fucking hideous.

>>46198795
My very first painted model looks like shit compared to the last one i painted (after my miniatures attempt)

>>46198782
I have a tendency to accidentally cause this kind of stuff when it comes to posting first attempts at stuff /cgl/ was way more elitist than here

>>46198823
>pls no bully
>ur a meanie pants
>real life has sucky painters 2

Shut up faggot.

>>46198854
See >>46198754

>>46198644
gotta say anon, that line across the knee is really neatly done, very nice brush control.

>>46198862
I think you need to gout /out/ maybe to dakkdakka where they praise shit posting.
how can we give critisism if the picture is shit????????
he is an adult and he knows it is shit.

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>>46198873
Damn right, considering my brushes were a super-cheap set for watercolours at school.

No 000 W&N series 7 back then.

Here, some more from when all my old DA went into the Dettol bath last year.

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>>46198706
im not a native speaker but good for you.
he has the exp to paint normal than that. but nice low energy responce would not expect more that someone who spouts crap..

>>46198954
Why haven't you taught yourself to speak English fluently? There's countless resources out there. Have you never been to /int/?

This is low energy anon, and there's no other way to describe it

>>46198954
The experience i have to paint normal is with my airbrush, the miniatures are too small for my brush so now i have to get good at handpainting, which is gonna take a while. I wasn't posting and expecting hugbox shit, i was looking for CC which i got

>>46198966
Painting basic models basically < learning the nuances of a new language.

Get out of here you fucking xenophobic piece of garbage. You're literally human filth.

>>46199054
I'm just asking that you speak the official language of a proud American image board with some degree of expertise. Put your back into it. Read a guide or two. Maybe go to /r/foreigner on Reddit if you want people to give you a free reach around.

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>>46198739
>I only kept this guy around to remind me.

I know those feels, anon.

Plus, I like his back banner.

>>46198966
again going to my language instead of the painting skill
low energy is no argument maybe go to /fit/ to raise your energy faggot

>>46199045
if you want to get good at hand painting start on canvas and try to paint very small but good figures.
>>46198943
like those banners
then you can see if youre low energy because it takes patience

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>>46199111
>like those banners

Banners rule!

>>46199081
Wow what a cuck.

Unequivocal application of standards for the sake of an argument. How about you grow up?


You killed the thread

Mods mods mods

>>46199157
Nice banners!
do you all paint them or do you draw them with markers too?

>>46199157
I love these, I'm forcing myself to freehand something (even if it's just an Ultra-U) on my banners and vehicles, gotta keep on practicing.

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Doing another load of airbrushing on my night goblins today. Doing all the squigs which have riders, being a boss, Squig hoppers and manglers. The cloaks on the goblins have already been airbrushed, and because I don't trust my hand eye coordination with an airbrush yet I'm masking them up while I paint. In hindsight it would have been much easier to do this the other way round, but whatever.

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>>46199157
Indeed, my fellow banner enthusiast. They are just about the best thing in 40k and every character and sergeant has one in my army.

Just got done repainting this guy last weekend.

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>>46199287
>Nice banners!

Thanks!

>do you all paint them or do you draw them with markers too?

It's a mixture of different methods. My favourite ones - the two dreadnoughts and Brother-Captain Lithonius - are painted, typically with either an ink drawing or a reduced photocopy underneath.

Some of the sergeant banners (Stilgar and Hector, and neophyte Brutus) are simply a large Blood Angels chapter symbol waterslide transfer on a painted paper background.

Other sergeant banners (Actaeon, Deimos, Nolan, Vincent, veteran Brutus) are fully painted symbols.

Brother-Sergeant Infernus's banner symbol is done entirely with a micron pen; all of the text on the other banners is also done that way.

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>>46199346
>Just got done repainting this guy last weekend.

Damn, that is sexy. The only picture I have of my chapter standard is from about 12 years ago. Guess I never felt the need to take another one.

>>46182835
>using the vox marine arm
>not snipping off the magazine and making the reloading marine

Casual scum.

>>46199481
>not knowing it's an auspex
>calling others casuals

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>>46199481
>not snipping off the magazine and making the reloading marine
>>46199497
>not knowing it's an auspex

I think he's suggesting (perhaps tongue-in-cheek) that you missed an opportunity to recreate a classic pose.

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>>46199291
Man I love squigs.

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>>46198644
I'm guessing somewhere 2003. Think I was 10, at a trade convention thing.

I remember the guy at the booth recommending us painting them blue, but I wanted mine red. I also remember being annoyed that I couldn't paint behind his gun. Either way, I didn't get into painting again until a year or so ago.

>>46199728
even though the color is quite thickly and sloppy laid on, that actually is a pretty cool color-scheme

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Some boltguns made up for no good reason. Thinking of shortening the magazine on the sniper.

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>>46199768
>Thinking of shortening the magazine on the sniper.

Why?

You are all doing a great job. Keep up the good work, you are doing better than you were when you started. Keep posting updates!

Awesome pics. Great size. Look thick. Solid. Tight. Keep us all posted on your continued progress with any new progress pics or vid clips. Show us what you got man. Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get. Thanks for the motivation.

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>>46200024
>Wanna see how freakin' huge, solid, thick and tight you can get.

>>46199807
An aesthetic choice really. Still undecided.

>>46200038
that's the joke

>>46200039
Make it straight. The one in Space Marine looks pretty good.

>>46200557
That could work. Need to find a straight mag.

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Got my Bretonnian Warband primed for 3rd edition Skirmish/Escalation I have planned.

>>46200751
Must be expensive now that they're practically going out of production. Can't be much better if you're also living in Australia.

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wip elevated train / modular bridge system

>>46200791
First off I have no idea why the pic is upside down....that's really weird.

Eh for me it's not that bad. All of my Bretonnians are either 90s era eBay buys, or Frontrank miniatures. They make great infantry. Bowmen are easy to get because of the boxed set, and I got so many knights now that I think I have enough to go all the way up to 2500 pts if I wanted to.

It's not that bad at all. I never liked the 6th-7th edition Bretonnians much at all, anyway, and I'm really glad eBay has allowed the purchase of 90shammer.

>>46201303
Neat!

I might steal that for our Necromunda table.

>>46201401
Height 8cm, 6cm wide, rails are 3,5cm wide (6cm base)

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>>46201303
>wip elevated train / modular bridge system

Can he chugga-chugga?

>>46201425
>8cm
Just the right height to fall down and break your neck. Perfect for the purpose, then!

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>>46201303
>>46201401
>>46201425
You guys could also do some digging on ebay. There are always people tearing down old setups and selling old trains bridges and tracks.
Those industrial style girders etc are also great for building random other Necromunda scenery with.

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Does anyone know how to paint the pale blue like this? I don't think just a blue wash over white woukd work.

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Chaos spawn are fun to build and fun to paint and fun to play.

>>46202369
Same way you paint white, just add blue into the mix at every step

>>46202369
Mix a lot of white with a little bit of blue.

>>46199807
Lets you get closer to the ground when prone.

You rarely see huge magazines on real life sniper rifles either.

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>>46186168
>mfw

>>46187929
You start painting...

You use no undercoat.

You wonder why you suck?

You use a white undercoat.

You wise up.

You use a black undercoat.

You get good.

You go back to white and use a lot more washes, blending, subtle highlighting and acrylic flow improver.

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Hey /wip/, so a few days ago I asked about my idea for a recipe for painting black power armor. Since some Anon asked me to post results... well, here I am.
What I did:
Black primer, gray zenithal, lighter gray selective highlight, multiple layers of black wash, few black lines. Some things I've noticed:
the lighter gray highlight was pretty much a waste of time;
washing (at least without diluting it) seems bad, since the line where the wash starts is clearly visible on otherwise almost perfectly smooth transition after airbrushing.
So how do you like it Anons? Is it good enough for something like TT+?

>>46187929
this >>46188000. We can't give you specific advices if we don't know where you need improving.

>>46203135
I would consider going dark grey with light grey zenithal highlighting, then do the washing. As-is I think the black primer is still too prominent a component of the finished scheme. I would also point out that there sound never be a "line where the wash starts," unless I'm misunderstanding how you're using it.

Also that cut sword looks awful.

So why do you guys use GW brand paints? Aren't they just the same as any other acrylics except more expensive?

>>46203290
And without dropper.

>>46203290
I like the colors they have, and it's an easy way to support the shop where I play without dropping the big bucks.

Also their washes and glazes are real nice

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>>46203290
Dunno. I guess that they're easy to get. I tend to prefer Coat d'arms myself, but DAMN are foundation paints useful if you can find them. I mix them with other paints to increase coverage.

On another note, a shot of my slowly growing collection of painted Epic minis. There seems to be a Mekboy Gargant at the local post-office for me to collect tomorrow.... then I have to start on the Bad Moons I have. Painting yellow. Yay.

Did complete my Chimera Assault company recently (which can be seen in the background). Still not got much of an Idea on how you're meant to use human assault troops when every other troop in the game is better in close combat. They're better up-close than... other basic humans and.... gretchin.

>>46203374
What display case is that? Looks sturdier than the Ikea one I have.

>>46203290
To some extent, the GW metallics are still some of the best available, and above all, they're widely available.

GWs colour range is bright, bold and quite broad.

P3 is similar in bright and bold colours, but is a much narrower range.

Vallejo Game Colour is close to GWs stuff, but not nearly as widely available.

Vallejo Model Colour is a huge range, but with much more muted "realistic" military colours, not always what you want.

All of these are also really nice, but they're not nearly as widely available in many locations.

Scale75 too is a case in point, it's a great range for the most part, getting it however is tricky since it's rarely sold in stores anywhere outside spain.
I'm in the Netherlands, and I usually order my Scale75 stuff online, either in Germany (if it's in stock) or Spain, from Scale Games directly.

>>46203392
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60128562/

I've got two of these... and an old glass-fronted dresser for scenery. I'm considering buying a third.... just need to find somewhere to put it :P

>>46203075
Basing white is not wrong and basing black is not right. You can base in grey, brown, red, purple, whatever. It depends on the style, main colours, temperature profile you are going for, etc.

To say white is wrong and black is right just shows you have a long ways to go as well.

>>46203402
I'd like to add that Reaper do a large range of paints which are rather neat for cloth and clothing. They tend to be a bit more 'washed out' than GW paints, but the size of the range is good.

Coat d'arms is Old GW from the 90's. It's the stuff that tastes kinda nice. Similar to the GW range but in better pots and you get more for your money. Their washes aren't as good, iirc. Metallics are fun because they do them in tons of colours (like GW used to).... like purple.

>>46203491
You're reading it wrong. It's a comment on skill progression.

Basing in White is not wrong. It allows for bright, vibrant colours and black-lining.

Basing in black is not wrong. It makes painting dark, brooding minis a lot easier and works in a similar way to black-lining.

Find what works for you & work with it.

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>>46203511
>It's the stuff that tastes kinda nice.
I'm guilty of licking my brush too every once in a while, but you really shouldn't. It's bad for you m'kay?

>>46203615
Meh. It's just to fix the tip. It's not like I'm actually sucking the thing :P

Besides, they're non-toxic.

If I was swigging the stuff... then I'd get worried. Acrylig flow improver strikes me as a bit dangerous though ;)