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WIP - Painting and Converting General

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Thread replies: 345
Thread images: 116

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
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Any advice on making a Black Mace for this guy? Not even sure where to begin on making one.
>>
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Previous threads, for those keeping track:

>>43862068 (previous)
>>43829017 (before that one)
>>
>>43892791
blob of nurglings impaled on stick
>>
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First attempt at putting snow on bases. What do you guys think?
How am I at painting? How can I improve the look of my minis?
>>
>>43892867
why are your fire warriors marching through cocaine lake?
>>
>>43892867
Is that sugar? How did you make that?
>>
>>43892856
All of my yes.
>>
>>43892926
Why do you think they blindly follow the orders of old, wrinkly dudes?

>>43892998
It's PVA glue mixed with baking soda, and just a drop of Gulliman Blue glaze. Then I sprinkled a bit of baking soda on top of the mixture when applied.
I guess it looks way better in real life, since you don't see the models from this close.
>>
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I'm planning to paint another walker to my ork army, so I need anons advice.

Those are my killa kans I painted some time ago. I went with full blue + checker scheme for Deathskull clan, but for bigger model, I think I need another colour.
What would be good colour to go with blue? i was thinking about either white or orange.
>>
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Some progress on the Land Raider. Still waiting for weathering pigment.
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>>43893121
A drop of blue glaze....

its invisible
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>>43893415
Maybe I didn't put enough. On the other hand, most of the glue itself is covered by baking soda, so it wouldn't really show.
I'll put a couple more drops in the future.
>>
>>43892867
i like it. a bit plain though. Might break it up and show ground underneath on future ones, or like little tufts of grass poking thru.
>>
>>43893414
Those are really neat optics. I wish I was skilled enough to do the same.
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>>43893165
The white and orange you already have looks excellent.
>>
>>43893583
Cheers, but those are getting repainted. Just placeholders for colourtesting. Way too 'choppy'
>>
Is there any feeling worse than realizing you missed a mold line or gap to GS after priming?
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>>43893741
They are too blue too. Try to make them less saturated.
Its looking really good tho. Keep on the good work.
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>>43894326
I didn't know it but that's exactly what was bothering me. Thanks.
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>>43893121
I disagree with this anon
>>43893415

In the shadow of the warriors, you can catch a glimse of the blue. Not the best picture tho.

Seems like a cool effect, looks great with the red armour, man. GJ
>>
Goddammit /tg/, I was holding off on getting a Betrayal at Calth box but I caved. LGS was holding a sale of them for 20% off from their last three boxes. I was only going to buy one but got two anyway because FUCK LOGIC, HOARD MINIS

I'm thinking of doing them as Imperial Fists since I play black templars and I love the color scheme.
>>
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Just some bog-standard CSM I wanna start up with for casual games and relearning the game. Tons and tons of dry brushing
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>>43895228
>>43895255
heheheheh
>>
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>>43895228
Let's see if this works.
>>
>>43892867
Buy a gundam marker and use it to fill the lines between your armor sections. A good example being the center seam on the firewarrior helmets.
>>
>>43895297
Or a Micron marker. Shit's so cash (and easier to find).
>>
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Done my fiends
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Does anyone have a tutorial on painting wraiths/ghosts? I've got a few I wanna make look GOOD, so I figure I should see what advice I can get...
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>>43895297
>>43895603
Thank you. I always thought that I should do lining, but I think I don't have enough of a steady hand to do it with a brush.
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Here's whole squad, thoughts?
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First time using a micropen to shade recesses.
How does it look?
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>>43896124
>>
>>43896124
Looks like I'm gonna do that.
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>>43896124
Looks a bit Tron-ish. Can't really tell that you used a micropen, but that's more because the model is so dark with really, really contrasting edge highlights.
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>>43896157
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I had fun earlier posting my newest finished model, I thought I would post an older one. Paint has chipped off in some areas. But im sure it wont trigger anyone.
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>>43896452
and my next project. I know someone really liked the first so Ill make sure to post update pics.
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>>43896490
Can you post a shot of this guy next to a fire warrior and maybe a hammerhead?
>>
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Making an Emperor's Children Legion Champion with Power Spear.

Which pose looks the best?
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>>43897525
2
>>
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Looking to get one of these big motherfuckers mounted a few inches above my painting table so I can finally get enough light. Any tips of colour temperature and lumens I need to look out for to get the best results for painting minidudes?
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>>43897525
I agree, 2. Spear looks more readied than in the others.
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>>43894285

The first time this happened to me, I swore: Never again! The second time, I was gobsmacked, "How?" The third time (I only noticed when snapping a brag photo) I just went, "Welp."

I'm at the Acceptance stage now. It sometimes happens. I don't know HOW one can trim, clean, assemble, prime and paint a model and not see these defects at every stage, but there we are. It happens. I just roll up my sleeves and fix them as I find them.

I still feel like kicking myself, though.
>>
>>43896898
sure sec
>>
>>43897907

Fluorescent lamps burn blue - this'll skew your color perception, so it's not recommended. "Warm" lights burn orange, but have the same skewing effect.

Choose a fixture you like that accepts "neutral white" LED lamps for the best result.

HTH
>>
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>>43896490
size comparison. stands just and inch or two taller than my knight.
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Posted this earlier today too. Deal with it.
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I've never painted minis before, so I figured I'd buy a pack or two of these bastards and use them to practice. Good idea or no?
>>
>>43895972
Tongues seem a bit dull. Try highlighting the tips or use shades.
>>
>>43898565
only if you want to do marines, even then id recommend a tactical box
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>>43898565
Yeah I've found that space marines are a good starting point, especially with all of the sharp edges etc
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>>43898644
I dunno about getting a Tac-box, because with the push-fit Marines I don't have to worry about assembly, I can just focus on painting. That, and it's cheaper.
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>>43898407
Thank you. I thought Flourescent lamps are white? Or by "blue" do you mean the temperature and not the actual colour/tint?
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>>43898708
I like the tac box option because you can paint in sub assemblies, it makes it much easier
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>>43892867
Nice stealth suit.
>>
>>43898565
Get some individual metal minis from a manufacturer like reaper. You get more variety and you can toss them into pretty much anything to remove the paint without fear of damaging them.
>>
>>43898565
These are single-post kits that cannot really be customized. Each marine consists of a body, backpack, and an arm/hand holding their gun. It's all peg and slots for connections, and sometimes you don't even need to glue them if you're lucky.

They are not great minis, but not awful if you're going to learn to paint. HOWEVER, I suggest instead buying space marines from the Assault on Black Reach starter kit via ebay, since they're the same but you'll bound to get a better deal. You could also consider the Dark Angels from the Chaos Marines vs DA starter kit. (also on ebay)
>>
>>43898528

and i still like it like earlier.
I also like that tau commander suit. Both of these would have been called fantastic 20 years ago, but now people see amazing things online every day, and look at non golden demon winning paint jobs and say "psshht, 5/10 try harder". Most times while not being able to do as good themselves.
>>
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Burning through these guys' base coats for the cloth. For the Perry miniaturws though im not sure whether to just do PATTERNS in the same color, or change up colors entirely
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>>43896898
>Can you post a shot of this guy next to a fire warrior and maybe a hammerhead?
>>43898464
>size comparison. stands just and inch or two taller than my knight.

C'mon, ladz...
>>
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>>43899618

hey not everyone has a johnny for important comparisons. also dat squat.
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>>43899810
Are you using Eldar swords for the spear blades?
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>>43900662
Yeah. That's an Eldar Wraithblade sword.

Planning to run it as a Paragon Blade.
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>>43900701
Ah, it looks good!
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>>43892867
Looks decent enough. I'm always suspicious of doing things like this. Because months or a couple years later, sometimes it turns a pissy yellow, or some other colour.

I used to use a pre-mixed wall repair stuff, which when diluted with water and brushed on made for some really good snow. That shit never discolourized, but I haven't been able to find it in shops for years. Could even dribble thinned red paint or ink into the stuff and make really-convincing blood in the snow.
>>
how do you highlight black?
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>>43900930
chaos black and codex grey, 50/50

wait a second...
>>
>>43892756
Can you paint models that are primed black as Salamanders? Or do I need to re-prime them or something. First time painting, picked up an entire tactical squad on EBay for 14 bucks, shipping paid for.
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>>43901022
Primed-black is the prime primer for salamanders
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>>43901022
the horror, the horror!
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>>43897525
#1

Gives him a sense of confidence in his pistol shot and that he's striding into battle. The spear also implies great angles in #1, it's what makes me dislike #2 for a wider, cruder stance.

#3 is in the middle, depending if you want to show arrogance more.

>just my 2c
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>>43901112
Oh, sweet. These were really well primed and glued too. I still can't believe I managed to snatch them up so cheap.
>>
>you never get the same feeling of painting your first vehicle, trying really hard and having it turn out so amazing you doubt you actually made it
Feels bad man
I wish daemons had good vehicles
>>
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sup /tg/ I want to make an IG army converted to look like 40ked french Cuirassiers, I would probably be using Tempestus Scion bodies on standard IG legs and shaving off pauldrons on their arms. However I have no clue where to find heads in the right scale that approximate the ones in pic related, any suggestions?
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>>43901879
PERRY MINIATURES. JUST DO IT FAGGOT
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>>43899810
The pale gold and dark purple don't really mesh very well as a color scheme IMO, and the tassels are a bit too similar to the gold.

If you don't mind changing things up, I'd paint the tassels white and either make the gold darker, more saturated and more towards orange to match the purple, or make the purple brighter, less saturated and more towards magenta to match the gold.
>>
>>43901172
Cheers!

What do you mean by "the spear implies great angles"?
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>>43902201
>What do you mean by "the spear implies great angles"?

Great Angles, m8! Y'know, like the Blood Angles and Dark Angles of the Pythagoras Legion.
>>
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Hey, wipg, I'm about to paint my new ethereal but I need some advice. I'm trying to paint his robe in the style of Flynn Sr.'s from Tron Legacy, I know the outer robe will be easy, Abbadon Black, highlight with Eshin Grey, etc. But my question is how should I go about doing the white part of the robe? I was thinking to base it with Ceramite White, then a thin layer of of White Scar and a SUPER dilluted drakenhof just to give it that tiny tinge of blueish white. What do you guys think?
>>
>>43901879
>>43902015
yo.
Check out victoria miniatures, she's got a set of 'female arms' that are a little smaller than her other stuff. They should fit without problems on the perry stuff.
If you are just looking for bits have a look at blight wheel for the cuirasses and meridian miniatures for the heads.
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>>43895901
Bump. Anyone?
>>
>>43902958
I've never done it before, but I think you should try to basecoat them with like a seafoam green color or lighter blue, or lighter green. It really depends what kind of ghosts you're looking for, but essentially a faded basecoat color and white highlights should be a good starting point. Look at pic related or Nagash.
>>
>>43902502
I would actually say skip the wash. Very, very gently drybrush shades of blue behind it, progressively getting lighter as it gets closer. The wash will tint it all blue, otherwise. White is delicate.

Other than that, it sounds awesome, and I expect pics.
>>
Halp! I undercoated my models white and paint them, but the paint rubs off completely when I touch it before I can finish the model. It was GW undercoat spray primer. Its like the paint wont stick to it. I let it sit for 10 minutes on a part, came and pressed my finger to it and some of the paint still came off.

WHAT DU?
>>
>>43903806
I let my primed models dry for 24 hours, which is probably overkill, but there's no way 10 minutes is enough time man.
>>
>>43903806
>WHAT DU?
Read the leaflet that is stuck to the cap of your can. It should tell you everything you know, including that 10 minutes is not enough time for the paint to dry.
>>
>>43903471
>drybrush
Don't listen to this
>>
>>43903806
retard
>>
It's already winter outside here, and I have to prime my minis. What to do?
Is bathtub a good place to spray them? Ofc with newpapers everywhere around.
Also, should I open window during priming?
>>
>>43904002
>>43904141
>>43904666


you guys are reading this wrong. It has been primed for DAYS. I am saying the paint I am putting on the model with a brush NOW, days after priming, WIPES OFF even after being allowed to dry on the model for 10 minutes.
>>
>>43897525
>1
Confident, larger presence, back views more stable.
>2
Focused, energetic, the moment just before contact
>3
A mix, but not as strong as either.

I am getting kranon vibes off this mini.
>>
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>>43904785
Use either this or gesso
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>>43904785
>Is bathtub a good place to spray them?
No. Just put a box somewhere in front of a window to catch all of the overspray and dust. If you have enough air moving it shouldn't be a huge deal.
>Ofc with newpapers everywhere around.
This is good. You don't want the inevitable overspray of paint to settle on your floor or furniture.
>Also, should I open window during priming?
Yes. All the windows. You'll probably want to do this in the (best ventilated) room you won't spend much time in for the next few hours...
>>
Would you say that the Preheresy Death guard has more of a Bone-color or a White-color?
>>
>>43904845

Try washing them with soap, that isn't normal.
>>
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>>43905665
It's described as an ivory white, this is the FW official painting guide.
>>
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>>43898755
Thanks. I was lucky to be able to put my hands on them. They're still highly WIP though.
Since they don't have fusion blasters, I'll field them with one XV25 stealth suit, Dawn of War style.

>>43893573
Now that you mentionned it, you're right. I went for a "cold planet" thing, so I won't be putting a lot of things other than rocks, and maybe a bit of debris.

>>43900911
Well, it looks like you're right. It dried overnight, and the PVA layer thinned down a lot. It still has a nice semi-transparent frozen effect, but now it feels very flat, the snow looks thin, and it's not what I wanted. Maybe next time I'll add a bit of "Mourn Mountain Snow" texture paint to thick it up a bit. That, and a bit more baking soda for the paste.
I may experiment with different materials too. I'm intrigued by what you said. I'll try to look for something similar. Thanks.
>>
>>43904785
It's fucking cold over here already, and I asked a dude at GW how he kept priming his minis during winter.
He told me that you can still prime them outside, but as soon as you primed them, you have to put them somewhere with ambient temperature. Also, you should heat your spray for a bit if it feels cold, just so the paint inside is at ambient temperature.

I primed a bunch of minis two days ago, and right after I did, I put them in my (heated) car so they could dry properly. I had very good results, and can't notice some kind of alteration on the primed minis.
>>
I want to paint the minis for Starcraft: TBG but
1) I never painted anything
2) I'm not artistically inclined

Ideally for me would be getting my hands on copies of the minis but from what I've seen copying is ridiculously labor-intensive and loses detail to boot.

So I guess my question is - can I somehow recover the original coloring or pain over the mini if I fuck up?
>>
>>43906939
>So I guess my question is - can I somehow recover the original coloring or pain over the mini if I fuck up?
I don't know what the hell Starcraft TBG is, but if you have miniatures it depends on the material.
If you have prepainted ones, I can't really think of a way to only strip the paint you applied over the prepainted bit though.
Metal is easy to strip, most common plastics for miniatures as well though you need different stuff.
If it's that kind of rubbery plastic you sometimes see with prepainted minis like clix, then I'm not sure what exactly you need though.
First point of order would be to find out what the minis you got are made out of and what kind of paint strippers you can use for it.
>>
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>>43905473
I could but I have over 50 minis to prime, doing it with brush would probably kill my motivation.

>>43905512
If priming at balcony fail, I'll gib it a try with windows opened.

>>43906838
since I have a balcony, I'll wait till it's not raining/snowing/too wet/too cold, spray them and put back to my living room to dry.


Thanks for tips.
>>
where to get cheap SM shoulderpads? with no details/symbols/anything special needed, I just want them for my orks as looted stuff.
>>
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>>43906956

It's a board game by FFG.

I don't know much about minis so I'll try to be descriptive - they're plastic miniatures (very soft plastic) either molded from, or painted to be in an uniform color. Picture related.
>>
>>43898528

yeah dark angels whooo
>>
>>43903171
Must be the easiest army to paint.
>>
>>43906994
>It's a board game by FFG.
Mh. They kinda look like the ones in Imperial Assault.
If they're the same plastic you should be good. You definitely can paint those.
The bad news is in order to paint them you need to prime them, i.e. add a coat of paint that will bond with the plastic underneath and has enough grit for the acrylics to stay on the model.
So while stripping will give you back the original color of the plastic to some extend you will most likely never get them 100% clean again if you want to go back.

On the other hand, imo, you can't really do much wrong if you start with some of the more forgiving miniatures like the zerg stuff for example and work your way up to the marines.
Once you painted the entire box set you should have enough experience to call yourself a decent painter.

Your first attempts will likely be not as good looking as you hoped, but don't let that discourage you. We all gotta start somewhere.
>>
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>>43903806
>the paint rubs off completely when I touch it before I can finish the model.
>WHAT DU?

Don't touch it. Get some stable object like a plastic bottle cap (pic related) or old paint pot, and temporarily attach your model with some blue-tac. Then, paint by handling the bottom instead of the model itself.
>>
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Working on more terrain, hoping to crank out 4-5 more tonight.
>>
>>43907036

Uh... thanks.

I don't know if I'm going to go through with it. I'm scared that it's going to look much worse then if I didn't do anything. Shame copies are hard to come by so I could experiment without risk.
>>
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>>43907127
>>
>>43902727
I love them
>>
>>43907212
You could get some other cheap miniatures first and try if you even like painting miniatures at all.
Reaper bones are a similar material and just cost a few bucks a pop.
>>
>>43907290

Just remembered a friend has access to a 3D scanner and printer so maybe I'll go that route.
>>
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>>43907214
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>>43892791
The giant censer from the skaven plague furnace makes a good mace head, not sure about the size though - it might be too large. A flanged mace would be easy to make out of plasticard.
>>
>>43907416
I've seen someone use the plague censer as a mace for an imperial knight. It seems too big for a daemon prince.
>>
Does any anon have a good, high quality image of the Saim-Hann Primordial Serpent icon? I'm trying to make an Airbrush Stencil.
>>
>>43895228
How's Australia anon?
>>
>>43908046

Hot and poisonous. Fucking dropbears.
>>
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Does anyone have the Army Campaign Badge picture with all the names and dates? You know, the shit you put on the greaves and kneepads of Space Marines.
>>
>>43908063
I'm gonna make a Chaos Sorcerer on a Palanquin of Nurgle. Anyone know a good way to make one?
>>
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Still putting away.
>>
>>43908128

Tbh I made some chaos knights into the four horsemen of the chaos apocalypse.

If you want to go more traditional, look for a nice resin throne, something to carry it and a fat guy to sit on it.
>>
>>43908112
Bump for christs sake
>>
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>>43908489
Still going.
>>
>>43907127
>>43908489
>>43908799
> Willingfully watching Tau propaganda
>>
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>>43905665
I paint mine bone.

1 Brown basecoat
2 Bone armour
3 Ironbreaker on all metalics
4 Balthasar Gold
5 Medium green ( I prefer a kind of brown-green like Death World Forest)
5 Black wash the steel parts
6 brown wash the whole fucking model. Yes all of it. Do it top down so it pools more on the legs.
7 Highlight the green, white, steel and gold again with the same colours. If you like use, a brighter steel, or wych flesh (porcelain white), but you really don't need too.

I then battle damage mine, but this is optional.
-more brown wash around the legs.
- put tiny dark lines around the legs and kneepads with a blacky grey colour.
>>
>>43908890

Didn't Soul Eater end years ago?
>>
>>43908920
i like the fuckhuge meatcleaver.
>>
>>43908930
I know the anime did. The manga could still be going but I think it was also close to over last I checked.
>>
>>43908890
It's nice to have something playing in the background.
>>
>>43899810
How the fuck does he see?
>>
>>43909678
Won't matter in the long run anyway...
>>
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>>43909892
>Won't matter in the long run anyway...

You're not thinking far enough ahead, anon.
>>
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>>43909913
Unsurprising considering the Sternguard kit had all the faces from the Ultramarines game.

Sam Neill is actually a perpetual that was involved in the events of Jurassic Park, Event Horizon and 40k.
>>
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Oh, the things you can find when opening your spare bits box...
I blame Tzeentch for this.
>>
>>43910641
>This is what your Tau look like on Greater Good
>>
Hey /wip/, I have a bit of a problem. I airbrushed VMA Blood Red onto some Eldar, then I tried to do some highlights with VMA Hot Orange. But, nothing happens. Is the paint too similar to Blood Red? Should I try for a yellow?
>>
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all that's left is jotting on the sentences onto the parchment and a coat of 'ardcoat and i'm all finished and done for my 1st batch of minis ever

feels good lads
>>
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>>43910641
i swear! those were the only bitz left and this was the only way i could assemble them!
>>
>>43899618
I am in love with that pattern. Reminds me of Mechwarrior for some reason.
>>
>>43911049
>Reminds me of Mechwarrior for some reason.
Dude. Why did I never think of that? Just gonna steal a BT scheme to paint something.
>>
>>43911126
>Just gonna steal a BT scheme to paint something.

Here ya go, m8!
>>
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>>43910062
Mark Strong ascends to Primarch in the future so that's not much of a stretch.
>>
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Does anybody know their way around Clix?
I just bought this set on ebay. Seems it usually goes for around 80-90$
I got it for around 15 bucks, but didn't pay attention to the shipping which is almost as much.

So, even though I'm kind of miffed about that, I think I technically made a good deal considering, even though this was more of a spur of the moment thing.
I checked and the minis are basically the same scale as the Prodos miniatures, i.e. should fit to most (truescale) 28-32mm miniatures, which made me think it could be fun to paint some Predators for some funky scenarios.

Anyway, here's my question: Did I do good?
>>
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>>43911153
>mfw I already painted a Lyran Guard Marine

Thank you, anon!
>>
>>43911299
I don't generally like quartering on my Space Marines, but you've done a damn fine job there in my opinion.
>>
>>43901879
Curious Constructs minis, my friend.
>>
>>43911234

Nigga that's a collector's item, the whole point of those is to keep them on a shelf only to look at them once every 5 years
>>
>>43911699
Yeah I figured.
It's gonna be a while until I do more than look at them too.
On the other hand you can get high end resin minis for 10 bucks each from the predastore.
Compared to that the Clix minis look pretty bad desu.

I only bought it because I thought 6 different Predators would be good value.
>>
So WIP, I've had an overall shit day but my primer and glue arrived today, should I finally start on making my 40k army or should I do that when in a better mood?
>>
>>43912211

Sniffing glue and browsing WIP always cheers me up
>>
>>43912211
Hm. It can work both ways friend. As someone who is heavily mood-dependent, too.

Sometimes I'd have a shit day that was SO shit I'd be in one of those "even if my shoelaces get a bit stuck taking my boots off I'd fall into a minor rage" moods. If that's you, if even small things set you off then leave it. If you end up getting something wrong you might just get a breakdown and fucking bite the sprue or something.

On the other hand if you feel kind of slow and deliberate, like you accept the shit day, you might end up in a better mood seeing a few of your future plastic bros ready for your brush.

If you feel just.. drained and in a meh mood, perhaps it's best to do something else you enjoy to recharge your batteries before starting.
>>
>>43912272
Mhmn... I could continue filing the super glue off that Rhino which I literally can't fuck up. I'll do that.
>>
>>43912318
best idea then. But don't worry mate, even your filing is progress towards your army, so don't feel bad.

If I were there I'd offer you a drink but I can't so I hope you feel better.
>>
>>43912347

Stand behind a curtain with a light aimed at you in front of a window where your neighbors can see you then vigorously shake up that primer can screaming HAAAAAAAAAA
>>
>>43912377
Fuck you Anon I'm not in the mood for smiling. I actually laughed a bit.

>>43912347
Cheers man. It's just been one of those days. I'd strip models today but I need to save that biostrip stuff for tomorrow since me and a mate are just doing a massive strip day to get the most use out of it.
>>
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I recently found a ruined Tau armor laying in a box. It had both legs broken, no armament (except a shoulder roket launcher) and the head was missing.
I was sick of waiting for my Bolt Action Commandos to arrive so I decided to paint it as a test for my tanks and vehicles. I didnt even bother to remove the moldlines...
As I was working on it I thought it could end up as something quite cool. My commandos arrived today so I finished it with some pieces from the infantry box. This is how it went out.
>tldr: Ruined Tau armor converted into british WWII combat armor.
Opinions are always welcome.
>>
>>43912577
That looks bloody brilliant! Like a reverse Wolfenstein: The New Order with the allies having the shiny hi-tech toys.

>>43912421
I understand and yeah, save it for tomorrow. Make it a productive day and have some laughs with your buddy. Been trying to do the same, filling up my day with some form of DIY/hobby and chores. Just always set some small goal or task for the day ahead, should help keep your mood focused and manageable.
>>
What light do you lads use and how close do you hold it? if you use things like ceiling mounted stuff or lamps, do you focus the light with a cover to reflect more light towards your work area?
>>
>>43913531
I got two desk lamps and usually have my ceiling light on as well.
The more light you have the less strain you put on your eyes. With less light your eyes will get tired faster.
My ceiling light is white, so I kind of get a daylight effect.
>>
>>43913713
I see. Doy our desklamps have covers to reflect any light you have onto your work area? Got some new lighting but while it's bright and big, it's a tube so it throws light all around. Thinking of slapping together a foil cover to reflect light from the unused directions onto my table.

Just wondering if that's worthwhile/normal?
>>
>>43913775
One of them is just a regular old ikea lamp that I can put on whatever I'm doing when I need more light, one is standing next to the table and is kind of a spotlight that just brightens up the work area in general.
So I don't really need any reflector, but in your situation it sounds like it would make sense if you get more light where you need it that way.

In any case it's worth a try if you are unsatisfied with your current light situation.
>>
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Let's see what Steven sent me
>>
>>43913938
dragon dildos, only slightly used
>>
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These fucking peanuts man
>>
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>>43913531
>What light do you lads use and how close do you hold it?

This is my disaster area/painting station. I have four different lamps that I use in combination, plus, when the sun is out, I can open the blinds to let in natural light.

Nothing beats real sunlight for spotting mold lines you missed or highlights that aren't string enough.
>>
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Behold! A named character that has been dead for four editions
>>43913957
What small ass dildos have you been using?
>>
>>43913864
I see, thank you. Well it's a big ol' 3250 lumen fluorescent a few inches away from my noggin sitting down at my painting table so brightness isn't really the problem. Just want to tinker with a cover because if the light is just spread out in ambiance-mode it might make the models more washed out.

Concentrating all that light back would gimme great detail capabilities I reckon. This is all I need so I can start pulling all-nighters to finally chew through my backlog. vJust in time too as I kinda want to give my small Tau army a new colour scheme.
>>
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>>43911012
I approve
>>
>>43913971
Sweet Merciless Khorne what the fuck.

I love it. Also thanks for the info. I wish my painting area was point blank on a nice window like that.
>>
>>43907023
Such a lust for revenge
>>
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eldar masterrace
>>
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>>43914148
>>
>>43914148
>Eldar with spear: "OH GOD HELP ME ILLITHANE MY FACE IS MELTING"
>Eldar with sword: "THE GREAT ENEMY HAS TAKEN HOLD OF YOU, I MUST END YOUR MISERY"
>>
>>43914220
but I'm just fucking with you, it's nice work. Just the one with the spear looks a bit crusty in the face. Maybe hit it up with a cotton bud in dettol (q-tip and simple green for you yanks) and give it a more even coat?
>>
>>43914220
yeah the fucking white is so thick I didnt water it down as a retard. how can I repair it? scratch the paint?
>>
>>43914263
I wouldn't recommend it as that might damage the model and keep residue of improper layers there, interfering with any new paint you try to put down.

Rub the face with your model-safe paint remover of choice and a q-tip/cotton bud. Though be aware this will also remove the primer, so perhaps reapply it by spraying a tiny bit of primer in a bottle cap or something and painting it on.

Or prime your eldar white since most craftworlds are fairly brightly coloured. You'd only be doing yourself a massive favour.
>>
>>43914042
Is that Be'Lakor ass-raping a Blood Angel?

Praise be to Slaanesh
>>
Anyone had any luck painting halved/quartered SM colours schemes? I'm not really finding a lot resource wise.
>>
>>43914695
Not really much to say. Paint the color that is bright/covers worse first and then put on the darker one.
The rest is just painting cleanly.
>>
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I'm trying to make an army of felinids out of IG shock troops or maybe some SOBs and I was just wondering if you lot might have some kind of way I can achieve effective and good looking models hrough conversions. I'm after some nice ideas for units as well as how I can create the ears and such for the models themself and any help would be greatly appreciated! Picture shows what I was thinking along the lines of creating using the shock troops.
>>
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>>43911012
Could be worse, you could have accidentally assembled it like that on purpose after accidentally dropping some greenstuff on the miniature.
>>
>>43915241
Nice mushroom tip, you're a funguy!
>>
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>>43915241
>>43914042
>>43911012
No more miniature gay porn, please.
>>
>>43915284
>doesn't like dicks

Looks like we've got a fuckin' fag on our hands, boys.
>>
>>43915050
If you want female guard check these out
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/products/female-troops-and-bits?pagesize=24

As for the cat-ears (and possibly tails) I'd recommend home casting the Heads. That way you Greenstuff the ears on each of the heads and then make some tails to add to the mold. Demold and you have a mass production line
>>
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>>43915284
Seriously those miniature dicks are too small to get me horny. POST BIGGER DICKS YOU FAGS
>>
>>43911542
Thanks, the Dragoon Guard heads are exactly what I was looking for!
>>
>>43915448
>that comic

Get back to work, Lemonfont. I need more. Stop fucking around with seven simultaneous webcomics based on it, and let me see Faye fuck some girl or a trap already.
>>
>>43915406
Thanks for the site for the female guard and I'll take note of your idea of home casting and greenstuff!
>>
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So I put my Interegator Chaplin on a bike, First time working with green stuff and dont really know what I was doing but I had cut off the models cloak and then fit him onto the bike and added the cape.
>>
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>>43915922

damn powerfirst angle makes it look weird

Havent put the shoulder pad on that arm either.
>>
>>43915922

>LookMomNoHands.png

You had one job

besides getting a better camera and taking different angles.
>>
>>43898565
Its typical for GW stores in NZ to give those away for free. The wellington store has a basket of them that give to new people so you can just keep bringing friends and they keep giving you free marines.
>>
>>43913977
man, I remember when people thought he was an upgrade to the old demon prince model
>>
>>43908128
Get a pack of burgle spawn and arrange the larger piles in a triangle. You can then take the single nurglings and place them in each corner and it makes a tidy triangular base that fits well on a 50mm. Then some platform for them to carry the sorc on.
>>
>>43895228
>>43895289
mantis warriors are an option from this.
>>
>>43908112
>>43908678
this. This would be rad.
>>
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What has science done?
>>
>>43908112
>with all the names and dates
I don't think they've ever had a list like that. Even insignium astartes just gives a general description and a page of various example badges.
>>
>>43916590
Would have been even better to convert those missile pods into an EXPLOSIVE MACE.
I may try that with my spare missile pods.
>>
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Trying to get a good alpha legion scheme without the usual shiny blue, this tone in the right ballpark? Also yes the metals are a bit messy at the moment.
>>
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>>43892867
I've found that putting just snow on the base makes it look a bit...bland? My grammar is failing me. I usually try to go for the "partially melted" look.
>>
>>43893165
Nice orks
>>
>>43917333
yeah snow only is super boring
>>
>>43898528
That looks dope
>>
>>43917426
So on that, how would I make a fully snow environment? I want to base my Tau on a tundra plain. Break it up with rocks and gravel occasionally?
>>
>>43917556
Yeah, you want a bit of variety. Even in the most snowy areas, there's something to break up the sea of white. I recommend googling around for pics of said environments, and going from there.
>>
>>43917585
Okay, ta very much!
>>
>>43916996
Too Ultramarines, maybe try a very dark blue highlighted green
>>
>>43915922

Just saying but you gave a bad angle for a potentially cool model/kitbash, I'd still say it's a pretty cool concept for a Chaplain to be on a bike so I'll give you that.
>>
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>>43916303
>burgle spawn

I would hardly describe the situation as "robble."
>>
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>>43918126
>>
>>43904785
Use an air vrush
>>
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>>43918155
>>43918126
>>
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>>43917651
Added a few washes of green before i drybrush/highlight. Think it pulls it away a bit more from ultras.
>>
>>43917556

Make some of the snow under the Tau yellow (blue?).
>>
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>>43917333
>>43917556
Bit late to reply, but mixing PVA glue, water effects, and modeling snow in different ways can give you a lot of variety with snow.

There's a nice guide on the web about it, but honestly you can just experiment for yourself and mix and match for your own bases.

>>43918167
Anybody got advice about air brushes? I've literally never used one, but I'm thinking of getting one since painting the larger models by hand has become a real hassle for me.

What's a good place to start with them, and how exactly do they work (or if you can point me to a guide that'll also be nice).
>>
>>43913971

Okay, I'll bite -

What are the BBs and nickels for?
>>
>>43918225
I don't like, no sir.

I haven't painted up my BaC marines yet (still working on Mrs. Tervigon) but I really want to figure out how to get the iridescent blue-green some Alpha Legion painters accomplish.
>>
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>>43914042

Squad Broken
>>
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>>43916836
I still have another set. Ravenwing Battleforce comes with 2 pairs, and I made Sableclaw instead. Might try to stick the heavy flamer onto a termi for shits and giggles, but I also might screw it up horribly. Still new to this.
>>
Alright, I've got a question regarding placement for Kill Markers. Today I had my first game with the Deredeo Dreadnought against a 3k Imperial guard Army. The Deredeo managed to score Eight tank kills over the course of 5 turns.

But I haven't finished painting the Deredeo yet(It's going to be Raptors), and I want to put some kind of Kill-Markings on it to represent that hour of glory it had in a single battle. But I'm having trouble deciding where, and how I'm going to do the markings.
>>
>>43918848
>iridescent

1. Basecoat with "chrome" silver spray enamel, let dry.
2. Slather with blue and green inks, detail.
>>
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>>43918842
>What are the BBs and nickels for?

BB's are for making glackets in pots of paint. Nickels are for pic related.
>>
I need to make beautiful pure elegant white skin.
I've heard adding a layer of ardcoat after you base white and before you wash makes it look better, anybody got any experience?
I was thinking whitish Grey bade- ardcoat - nuln oil - white highlight
>>
>>43918833
Few airbrush things:

Tankless compressors are cheaper, quieter, but break easier, and may pulse the air output. They are usually included in the starter kits. Lots of people recommend badger and itawa. The brushes that run around 70-100 USD as good starter brushes. The cheapest are master I think, I hear they break but they are cheap as $30 USD.

You don't need a lot of fancy crap but you should get a mask and some kind of spray booth to exhaust the vapors.

This guy is a badger shill but has a lot of good advice. https://www.youtube.com/user/awesomepaintjob/videos
>>
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>>
>>43919197
It might be cheaper to buy a box of washers.
>>
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>>43917663
>>
>>43919620
MOLD LINES
>>
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Wip Hafza
this model is so great
>>
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34 fucking burgerbux for this tiny little semen demon. When did character model prices get so pants-on-head retarded?
>>
>>43922668
Yeah, remember when it didn't cost $60+ for Creed and his boy toy? in one blister? together?

>>43919197
Pennies are good enough man, what u doin?
>>
>>43922668
The assassin prices are outrageous, to be honest. I'm considering building my own for each of the four out of various female models from other miniature lines. I've been trying to find good body glove-like models, but it's been rough going to find anything in the right size.
>>
>>43922761
infinity should do you well for the callidus and vindicare
>>
>>43922777
In my experience with CB (I play Ariadna), their models are just a bit too lanky to look good next to anything GW makes. Otherwise, I would totally agree with you for Vindicare in particular. I was considering working off of the Blood Vestals from Raging Heroes, but hadn't quite made up my mind yet. I also had a thought to use Lelith as a base for a culexus, but couldn't figure out how to work around the hair, as it appears to be attached to the torso.
>>
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>>43917419
>>43893734
Thanks, I'll keep it like that then.
Maybe I'll throw white checkers on blue panels here and there, or freehand skulls. Also, more rust and weathering, somebody pointed out before, that they look too solid and brand-new on legs and arms.
>>
>>43919620
>>43918178
>>43918155
>>43918126

I love your icons, what are they supposed to represent?
>>
>>43922933
All around, you've done an amazing job. I wish you a better codex soon.

Ya git!
>>
Sup, /wip/?

I want to get into miniatures painting, and have a question.

I'm in the third world and as of yet I'm in no position to import, however I have located a seller that can provide me with minis.

I'm trying to decide for one of four choices. All of them cost almost the same:

-WFB orc battalion
-WFB Skaven battalion
-40K Dark Vengeance starter set
-Two boxes of tac marine squad

I also want to know which of these offer the best value/quality/is the most fun to paint/ and which would be more useful if I was ever to find anybody to play with, or simply wanted to keep my army growing.
>>
>>43922668
a long fucking time ago? like, beginning of 6th edition ago?

>not having all four
>>
>>43923094
I could also get some eldars, IG, or the Age of Sigmar starter, but honestly I don't really like them a lot.
I don't really want to buy something that I don't like and that is anyway likely to remain as shelf decoration.
>>
>>43923094
Dark Vengeance easily provides the most value. 20 cultists, 5 chaos chosen, a commander, a chaos dreadnought, and that's just half the box. I don't remember all of what comes on the dark angels side, but I think it's a leader, 5 terminators, 5-10 marines, and like 3-5 bikers.
>>
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Anything I can do to save these? The guy apparently used super glue for over 3/4 of them, one on the left was plastic cement like normal and they come out fine. Others are fucked like that flamer. Is there anything that kills superglue without damaging plastic?
>>
>>43923271
Stick them in the freezer. Superglue can't handle cold temperatures.
>>
>>43923094
If you want something fun and entertaining to paint, try go find limited edition starters for 40k:
Shield of Baal gibs you Blood Angels and Tyranids, that have way more interesting to work with than SM and CSM form Dark Vengence (you work with mostly same shapes, just diffrent amount of spikes and skulls).
Stromclaw gibs you Space Wolfs and Orks. No matter what /tg/ says about SW, they have really cool models with all this fancy viking feel, and orks are just da best - and if you ever feel like you want some model, but it's not from your army, you can just buy it and make it orky (add some battle damage, extra spiky bits, armor plates and extra guns).
They both come with 7ed codex, so if you want to play, you have your codex in smaller format - easy to take with you for games.
If you don't mind older stuff, you can try to find old 40k starter Assalut on Black Reach that comes with Space Marines and Orks, or Battle for Skull Pass starter for fantasy that comes with Skavens and Dwarfs.


And my personal recommendation, find an army that you actually like to watch, and would like to paint and spent time with. Those will be YOUR DUDES for another months or years, so don't rush for deals and values and just think for a while and buy a single box of infantry.
after box:
Grab some basic paints you need for them. I went with 3 colour scheme, and grabed 1 base paint and 1 lighter tone for highlights, 2 or 3 washes, depending on scheme you pick, 1 or 2 bronze tones, 1 silver, 1 gold, black and white - that should carry you thru 1st box and not make you spent gorrilion $ for colours you won't use anytime soon. Grab some brushes, I recommend Most Wanted set form AP, their Regiment brush is my workhorse atm, and I use it for 99% of my painting time.
>>
Why can't I sit down and paint anymore..

It just feels like such a chore. Is it because Im not painting toward a full force?
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Dang it, now i want to do this to the rest of my guys, such a shame that i already glued alot of marines up. (the chaplain character and lots of special weapon guys)
>>
>>43923805
You rack disciprine. Paint model over thousand time. Paint model with brindford untir you see in darkness.
>>
>>43923805
Pick a model you like and just paint it for the sake of it, or just take a break and read a book instead.
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>>43923849
You may wish to reconsider the arms on that cataphract.
>Come, Brother, I require a hug
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>>43923879
Haha, yes. Good thing he is only blue-tacked.
>>
>>43922761
I was looking at dark age minis, there's some promising stuff
>>
>>43923944
I was looking at some of their stuff earlier, but their tagging on CMoN is terrible so I missed a bunch. The Forsaken Reaver Hephzibah, Shade resculpt, and Matriarch of Wrath all look promising. I was also contemplating CB's maghariba pilot. The hair might need to be sculpted off, but seeing as I was seriously considering starting off with Lelith, it's a much, much easier job this way.

I think that Shade probably looks the part the best. It doesn't mention scale, but I assume it's roughly the same scale as the rest of their stuff, which I believe is overall larger than 40k. The larger size should actually help to offset 40k's inherently ridiculous proportions. All I would really need to do is replace the head and cut off that crossbow thing, maybe replace it with that grenade that all of the Culexus models seem so fond of.
>>
>>43923805
stop painting group of models, preparing and basecoating big batch of models feels like a chore and is not fun at all. Focus on single model, or maybe get something form other faction/race/manufacturer to work with diffrent shapes and colours.
>>
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Beginner here.
This is the seventh miniature attached. Any tips welcome.

Few questions:
1. How do I cover this atrocious line on the jetpack when two parts meet?
2. I can't for the life of me highlight properly? I always and up with half the leg in other color.
3. How to make transfers not wrinkle up?
4. Is it weird that I'm in just for painting and gluing stuff instead of actually playing the game?
5. I am almost 30 and started playing with the miniatures - is it weird?
>>
>>43915922

why
>>
>>43916996

http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/vallejo-model-color-868-dark-seagreen/

Sea green or blended with blues and lighter greens would work much better I think, it looks like an ultramarine. Now AL did dress up as ultras in order to kill Guilliman but that was just a 10 man squad.
>>
>>43924437
Please report to your nearest adult registration center. Your privilege to self determination and allowance to search for your own happiness as determined by you and you alone has been revoked.

Afterwards report immediately to your nearest football fan reprogramming center.
>>
>>43924437
1. Liquid Greenstuff might be good for that. I've not tried it myself, but it's essentially made for that very situation
2. Before you put brush to model, make sure you get a good bit of paint off the brush and back onto the palette, so it can't flow off the brush into places you don't want it to, and you can always go back over with your base color to neaten up and botched highlights.
3. With Space Marine shoulder transfers, it's a good idea to make a vertical cut, from the center of the transfer to the top while it's still on the sheet, will help it curve around the surface better, and when it's dry, paint over it with lamian medium to seal it to the model.
4. I've been into warhammer virtually my entire life, I learnt advanced reading from White Dwarf growing up, I have multiple armies for Fantasy, 40k, Necromunda, and others, but have only played 2 games of fantasy, and one campaign of Necromunda, it's not weird at all to just enjoy the hobby.
5. Miniatures are for any age, I see teenagers and young adults playing warmachine and warhammer, I've seen middle aged and older people play Flames of War, and everything in between.
>>
>>43924437
1. File them together or use liquid green stuff to fill the gap them file off the excess.
2. Put the highlight colour down on your palette, don't make it up as you go along.
3. Make more cuts in the empty space, like on the U I would make a peace symbol-like cut in the centre of the U and maybe some small snips around it so it fans out a little
4&5. You have no idea how many men of any age have hobbies like this. Some do trains, some do historicals, some build other such scale models, and then there's us that make spess men that fight other spess things. Even then, why be insecure about things you enjoy? You had fun painting that marine, right?
>>
>>43924437
1) The line is a mold line. You should slice those off with a hobby knife before you prime them. If you still want to get rid of it at this stage, go ahead and cut it off and repaint the area.
2) Really get a fine point on your brush. We definitely don't lick our brushes to achieve this. Also takes practice. Get used to holding your marines upside down and every other which way to get that sweet angle.
3) Assuming you're using water like the instructions recommend, after it's done drying on a spot use some purity seal matte varnish to seal it down.
4) Nope. GW games suck, but their models are the tits.
5) Nope. Welcome to /tg/
>>
>>43922668

Injection molding has a high initial cost and I don't think the assassins sell in high enough volumes. I'm not saying they aren't expensive as fuck, but I can see why they'd be more expensive than a squad of lesser beings.
>>
>>43924538
I'm a tool. Didn't understand which line you were talking about at first in 1)

these:
>>43924502
>>43924511
>>
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my black friday haul was already delivered.
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>>43924760
Have you worked with Bones before? I'm kind of hesitant to buy anything but huge monsters in Bones, because the material doesn't look very convincing to me.
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>>43924914
Its my first bones miniature. and it will be the last.

the material is bendable and has a strange feel to it. Maybe primer, paint and varnish will help but i somewhat doubt it.
From what i see here i would avoid buing anything with long thin parts like lances, swords or rifles made from that material.

Both of the metal miniatures are great though. (They also were my first reaper miniatures)
>>
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Trying to get these guys mostly done before a Friday night game of ZM 30k...........so much still to do, fuck!
>>
A shot in the dark but does someone know of miniatures that are at least similar to the zerglings here:

>>43906994
>>
>>43924914
>>43925051
Reaper is definitely better if you buy the metals. But their bones are alright, though anything smaller than a troll is iffy.
>>
>>43922734
>Pennies are good enough man, what u doin?
>being a poorfag
>>
>>43925119
40k tyranids?
>>
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>>43925127

I mean a concrete mini I know zergs are supposed to be tyranids but that doesn't help me find a concrete one that looks like pic related.

I don't know much about WH40k or paining minis
>>
>>43925146

Maybe some dead space necromorphs?
>>
Can anyone help me figure out how to paint red with just brushes? It's an absolute nightmare.

I'm starting with Mephiston - two thinned coats and it's good.

Then I have a bunch of Vallejo Model reds - Carmine, Vermillion, and Scarlet. Eight coats later of Carmine, it's *starting* to look like Carmine.

I'm trying to paint a Sicaran tank. I'm going to go mad. No airbrush. Help.
>>
>>43925466
8 coats? Make sure to shake the paint well before painting.
>>
"Anon, where's your advent calendar?"

I've got my own calendar.

https://youtu.be/uFsFy0n8H-4

Besides even if I wanted to have one, they don't sell those nice LEGO calendars anymore
>>
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>>43925571
>WhitePower Armor
You guys did this, didn't you?
>>
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>>43925466
Watch this. Absolutely worff it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iKhIQ1TL2FM
>>
>>43925466
After eight coats, I'd say you might not have shaken the paints enough. Vallejo needs more shaking than citadel.
>>
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>>43925571
>mfw it's already december
>>
>>43915448
>>43915394
See, now, this is why people are uncomfortable around the people at games workshop.

Fucking can you please go be faggots somewhere else? We're all tired of your shit.
>>
>>43922933
10/10 ya pilfering git.
>>
>>43925125
>not using dimes
>>
Need cheap 28mm wing bits, help
>>
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>>43925571
>White Power Armour

Deus vult!
>>
>>43917333
>shield with machine guns
>draw ammo feed outside of the shield, leaving it vulnerable the enemy fire and having an opening in the shield

And people give GW designs shit...
>>
>>43927171

Guy at a LARP I went to a year ago reckoned his briefcase might be bullet-resistant on account of being full of bullets.
>>
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Those 2 greenskins will be my 1st test subjects on paint striping methods.
I"ve bought bottle of brake fluid, should I put them into glass jar or plastic bucket? Fluid comes in plastic bottle so I'm not sure if i should feel safe about plastic or just use glass?
>>
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>>43924914
Depends on model, Ive seen some Bones that look great and some that look like shit. Although its usually the really fine detail on smaller models that gets lost. The material bendability is a plus for me, you essentially never have to worry about your model taking damage, and if your model comes warped its simple to reshape. Heres a Bones bone giant I painted(Not particularly well), this model is a perfect example of why Bones rocks, I never have to worry about something breaking on this model.
>>
>>43927531
spooked
>>
>>43924437
First of all I have only been doing this about a year, I'm new too.
1. Advanced guys are going to tell you greenstuff. I'm still not ready to try it, I wouldn't worry about that just scape it down pre painting as much as possible.
2.after you highlight just go back with the bottom color and clean it up.
3.transfers suck ass, just leave the pad blank and practice frrehand with a micropen.
4. Naw it's part of the hobby and most of your time is spend doing that more than playing, at least your army will be painted when you do play. I DESPISE people fielding grey armys.
5. I'm 33 and arrange mine in pretend battle formations.
>>
>>43917333
Absolutely beautiful base
>>
>>43927531
The really large models that you have to assemble can be easily fixed if they've got some sort of issue with the pieces not fitting quite right - just heat up some water, put it in and shape it so it looks right before cooling it again.
>>
>>43928732
And another neat thing about Bones models, say you have 3 of the same model, you can use this method to reshape them out of the original pose to make each one a little different
>>
>>43927208
Just bullets? Not cartridges?
It might give case some resistance.
>>
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I'm working on my army captain for my post EC and I just finished the head, does anyone have any tips for how to make the plume pop a little more? I don't know how to wash the white. I asked the guy at my local GW and he said I need to wash it with "Drakenhof Nightshade" and I did, but it ended up looking really shitty. So any tips for a good wash would be appreciated. Also, last question...captains wear plumes like pic related, right? Or is it long ways?
>>
>>43895901
my method:

>base celestra grey
>apply nihilakh oxide
>drybrush/highlight ligth grey/white

coelia greenshade optional. served me right a hell of a lot of times
>>
>>43929027
>>43929027
need highlights to look like it's made of fur, not casino chip.
>>
>>43923243
>>43923709

I think I'll go for the DV set.
Thanks a lot anons.

>>43923271
What the fuck
>>
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>>43922938
Cthonian gang marks
>>
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Testing out FW's airbrush paints

Took about a pot and a half to basecoat everything in the pic. Its called Chemos purple, but its actually just Xereus Purple. Got 4 pots, which came out to around $27 after shipping
>>
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>>43930064
>4 pots
>27 dollars
>>
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So i recently bought the Kastellan robots and i really hope you guys could throw some head conversion ideas at me.
>>
>>43930312
half of it is probably shipping. Does FW have a point from where they offer free shipping?
>>
>>43930064
How did you make those phoenix spears?
>>
>>43930386
like 250 pounds or your kidney.
>>
>>43930374
http://wargameexclusive.com/shop/imperial-mechanics/adeptus-mechanicus-kastelan-robots-heads/
These look pretty good in my opinion.
I have a set of them at home, just haven't bought the bots to install them on yet.
>>
>>43930471
Those look fantastic, but holy fuck i am not willing to wait 30 days fore delivery. and i don't have a paypal account so thats out of the question, thanks for the link though gonna keep it for the future.
>>
Does anyone know how high are orks from RT?
I'm thinking about grabbing a bunch from ebay and I need to know how big they are compared to the plastic ones we have now.
>>
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Hi i'm new in painting mini, i have done a squad of XV-25 and a few pathfinder(Tau)
Here's a pic
My paints are : ceramite white (for priming and for base paint), fenrisian grey ,abaddon black , calgar blue,mephiston red,balthasar gold ,gehenna's gold and nul oil. I'm texxturing with mourn mountain snow
What do you think of my mini's and what do i do to make them better

1/3
>>
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>>43930631
2/3
>>
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>>43930631
Seems quite blotchy
>>
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>>43930064
Why did you buy them? It's not like it is hard to get your hands on airbrush paint. My local store sells 32ml Vallejo paint for the same price as 20 ml from FW costs. I doubt the FW's paint puts every other brand to shame and like you said, shipping is fucking expensive
>>
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>>43930658
3/3
>>
>>43930631
>>43930658
Hmm, alright there mate, you might want to consider a different colour pallete. They just look too washed out and non distinguishable from one another. also you'll have to work on brush control and thin your paints.
>>
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>>43926135
STOP OPPRESSING ME! MY BONER CAN ONLY GET SO HARD.
>>
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>>43930631
(I'm a newbie in the hobby too, I got my first minis about a month ago, so don't take what I say as an absolute truth.)
I can't really tell if the uneven paint is intended because of snow/frost/cloaking field, or if it's intended to be some sort of camo.
Do you prime your minis? If you don't, you really should.
Also, maybe you should consider getting good brush sets. They really make a difference. (Don't buy GW though, there's way better brands that are a lot cheaper.)
Once you'll learn that they all have a different purpose, your painting skill will skyrocket.
Don't be afraid of thinning down your paint and apply several layers.

If you wish to learn more about painting, your local GW store should be hosting free painting lessons. I know mine does. Don't be afraid to ask!

>>43930673
Your image was helpful, thanks.
>>
>>43930673
Yeah sorry i am doing these photo on my phones
>>
>>43930720
A new pallete ? What colours ?
>>
>>43930950
The pics in the guide were taken with a phone
>>
>>43930904
Is that tour mini 's ? 'Cause they're fucking cool . I prime the with my ceramite white, the guy who help in my local GW store said it was ok .this dîme sort of snow camo but i overwashed my mini's with nuln oil so it look like shit
>>
>>43931073
Since you're a beginner I'd recommend you stay away from trying to paint patterns. You should have solid shading and highlighting first before starting to do any sort of texturing.

There are also have some mold lines visible, these are small ridges along the model that are caused by a tiny bit of plastic getting between the mold pieces during the casting process. Scrape these away with a hobby knife, they're quite glaring on fully painted models.

You should also get some primer. Ceramite white is just a highly pigmented paint; it covers well, but it's not an actual primer.

Anyway, welcome to the hobby.
>>
>>43931073
Thanks for the compliment, but I doubt most people here would qualify my minis and paintjob as cool. There's obvious, eye-burning errors and mistakes that were taken during the painting. I guess it's just part of the learning curve.
The paint scheme does a lot, like another anon said. You need to get at least two different colors, if you want your mini to look acceptable. If you don't feel like making your own, just look in various Tau codexes to help you come with a nice color palette. I have no credit, since I've been taking Farsight's Enclave paint scheme.
I usually have at least 3 layers of diluted paint for the red part. You have to think about how your mini will be painted.
Here's how I do the red parts, after priming them black (All layers of paint are thinned down 60/40 with Lahmian Medium, which is some kind of transparent, neutral paint base)
I first apply a layer of Khorne Red, then go for a Mephiston Red layer on top of it (Darker to brighter). Then I wash my entire mini in either Nuln Oil, or Carroburg Crimson, or both.
Finally, to get rid of those dark spots left by Nuln oil on the red areas, I apply a final layer of Mephiston Red, being extra careful not to apply it in recesses. That will give your red-painted areas a nice and even look, with your recesses being black.
Then you should highlight your minis edges, and apply various other paints for details.
As you can see, I'm still a newbie in the hobby because of those obvious mold lines on the fusion blaster. But I'm way too lazy to repaint them, so I'll just leave them as they are.
>>
>>43931523
Wow thank you for responding me
I currently watch Duncan Rhodes video's ,it's really enlightening
>>
>>43898726
by "blue and yellow" it refers to white balance which has to do with the temperature, natural light burns at 5500k while florescents burn at 3200k. Natural light outdoors is blue while florescent indoor lamps burn orange/yellow. It is especially obvious if you do a lot of filming like I do.
>>
>>43924760
Is that some Vallejo basing paste I see?
>>
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Want some cheap chaos furies, found this.
You guys think this a good conversion for chaos furys?
>>
>>43932014
personally i woulda used tyranid gargoyle wings instead of whatever u are using right now and maybe a different head swap would of been better, but i all in all i think its a decent choice of conversions
>>
>>43931625
If you go for an established, canon color scheme, you'll be pretty likely to find tutorials on how to paint them. For my example, as a Farsight Enclave player, this tutorial helped me get a glimpse of the basics, even though I use my own methods. Maybe you'll be able to learn a trick or two, so I'll leave the link anyway:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlwjUDy3cF4
>>
>>43922933
Kurwa, to są jakies fajne orks, dobra robota na checkers. Jak zrobć wietrzenia na Killa kan?
I wasnt born in Poland, I dont know how to say checkered pattern
>>
>>43932157
>>43932014
I forgot to mention they arent mine, these are inspirations I found
>>
anyone got any tuts on how to make stuff like small arms look worn/used? All I can find is stuff on standard heavy duty weathering.
>>
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Working on the eggheads it'll have alot more wires when i'm done
>>
>>43932247
Lel anon
Checker - szachownica
If you asked about weathering I simply went with GW typhus corrosion. Next time will try with rust powders.
>>
I am planning on build a militia and cults army in 40k using Empire free company models and guardsman models. But I am not the best at kitbashing. So are there any tips & tricks I can use? Also has someone else here built a milita and cults army before?
>>
>>43932858
>30k*
damn I am used to just typing 40k
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