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WIP - Painting and Converting General

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Thread replies: 347
Thread images: 101

No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA
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Previous thread, for those keeping track:

>>43829017
>>
Finished my first squad of tau fire warriors in my new scheme.

Yes its suppose to look like sandstone...
>>
>>43862141
I like the sandstone, but the red camo/markings doesn't work imo.
For camo it's too sporadic, for markings, they're not painted cleanly enough. If you were going for camo I'd switch to a medium brown instead and add the pattern all over the armor. If you were going for marking I recommend going back over them with your sandstone base and sharpening the edges until they look like the tau alphabet.

Personally not a fan of the blue plasma noodles, though I like the rest of the scheme. Something a little more neutral would look better. Your reddish brown from the Tau symbols or a simple black would look better imo.
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Time to do belts, cloth, and the little things now
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>>43862506
Wouldn't have expected the Perry skellies to blend in that well desu.
Very nice. I always enjoy seeing your progress.
I love skellies and kitbashes, so you're my kind of hobby nut.
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Almost done with my Vendetta, 'Scrap Queen Suzy'. Still need to do the right wing and transfers.

Highlights of this model:

>awful gluing
>shitty Chinese Vendetta conversion kit
>inconsistent drybrushing
>wrong color paint on the pilot that I can't change now that the cockpit's glued shut

1/2
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>>43862624

2/2

This is my first attempt at a Vendetta/Valkyrie style model. There are a number of things that went wrong with it.
>>
>>43862471
The red camo, isnt camo. Its them painting their armor to mark themselves as individuals. Kinda like the clone troopers from star wars. Individuality is promoted across the cadre.
>>
>>43862591
the ONE and ONLY thing i cannot stand is that little half dome the feet are on. damn near impossible to cut out without ruining the feet
>>
>>43862696
Well, if that's the case I'd try to make it look more like patterns like on the clone troopers.
Right now it looks like random spot of color. Maybe that's just me, but if you already got a pool of patterns you can translate to tau armor I'd just use that. Could use a bit of your base color and a sponge to add some wear and tear afterwards again.
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>>43862734
Have you tried greenstuffing it to the square base so at least it's not as obvious?
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>>43862591
If you like kitbash check out their wight
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>>43862734
Yeah, the problem is if you cut them off the feet are really tiny so glueing the base down generally means sturdier miniatures.
You can blend the rim into the base with some cheap putty, some extra sand or just some rough grit sandpaper to make them a little thinner.
>>
>>43862948
Yeah I remember him. I'm monitoring these threads pretty religiously. It's the only place where you get so many different things in one place at the same time.
You actually inspired me to go out and get some Fireforge footsergeants so I could do something similar.
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>>43863060
>Anon saves your WIP photo set

I... dont know how to convey these feels
>>
>>43863087
I have a habit of saving size comparison pictures for ranges that I'm interested in.

But yeah, I really do enjoy your WIPs.
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>>43863135
Those foot Sgts looking... interesting. Are they to scale as perry or heroic?
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>>43863295
Those are actually the Perry Footknights as well.

The Footsergeants look a little different. It's the guy in the middle here.
The other three chaps on the right are perry ones and the guy on the left is an old GW empire sculpt.

I'm not too knowledgable about this stuff but the perry footknights should belong around somewhere like 1200 to 1300 and the foosergeants are earlier than this.
But it makes them a pretty good fit for Bretonnian Men at Arms.
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My first time painting a miniature today (new to tabletop games in general). Been watching a lot of painting guides on Youtube which made me want to start.
I don't have proper paints or washes or anything yet, just used a canvas primer and a bunch of generic acrylic paint i had lying around.

I like the cape and shield, but the pants are a strange colour irl, like a moldy brown, and the only silver I had was clumpy and shitty, so I only gave the sword a quick once over.
>>
>>43863661
Cape and shield don't look too bad. A wash or a bit of highlighting will make them look better with very little effort.

The bones are easy to make look good with a brown wash. Fills in the cracks to add shading with minimal effort.

A good way to get a decent looking sword is drybrushing silver over a black undercoat.

Honestly, some good paints and brushes will take you far. I've had good luck with Citadel, Vallejo, P3, and Tamiya Acrylic. The Citadel washes like Nuln Oil are especially handy.
>>
>>43863661
very, VERY good for a first time, bones need some shading, only criticism would be that it lacks some shading, but that's about it, good job anon
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Just finished a Deredeo to add to my Alpha Legion
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>>43863757
>>43863798
Thanks bros.
I have the starter Warpaints kit coming soon from the Dungeon Saga kickstarter that the skeleton came from. But I was thinking I might get some Vallejo paints/citadel washes to play with since all the painters I watch on Youtube use those.

Only have a white primer at the moment, but could I have painted the sword black first and the drybrush silver still work?
Will probably get some black primer next time I paint.

I'll post my progress in these threads, hopefully I continue to improve.

>>43863962
That is badass, are those hydra heads transfers or did you free-hand?
I love the crushed marine.
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>>43864083
Thanks man! The Hydras are freehand
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>tfw no leader in box
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>>43864163
I hope you people enjoy my dinning room table cloth. I was Home for Thanksgiving and had bought a new Choir, and wanted to take a look at them. Good thing i did it this early, cause I need them for a game on Thursday. I already filed a missing part ticket.
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>>43863295
>>43863390
Here's a pic.
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It's time.
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>>43865732
rolling
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Alright, I need your help, tg. I'm building a Tron styled eldar army, and I need lightcycles. What would you use for these wonderful vehicles?

I've seen some die-cast models, but not much really in the right size for 40k.

Help?
>>
Rolled 264 (1d1000)

>>43865732
/tg/ is too slow for that.
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I think I'm gonna settle on this format for the beginner's guide provided I'm not going to get banned for posting the url.

Video isn't mine.
No promises on delivery date
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>>43866046
The one you have in that pic is supposed to be 1/60 so pretty much perfect for 28mm which comes to around 1/56.
Other than that I'd say have a look at Infinity biker models. Those have this kind of Akira look and the bikers could be replaced with Eldar, because of all the 40k ranges the Eldar are closest to truescale.

Failing that I'd say just take the middle of a Jetbike and add the big wheels to the front and the back before you get out some milliput and sandpaper to make the chassis for that thing.

If you aren't too picky there are some aftermarket sci-fi bikes that you can look into as well.
>pic related
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>>43866364
Wow these look great. I may just use these now.

The army has a Tron look and feel, so some actual tron models will look out of place. Too bad there aren't any tron-like jetbikes that I could find. Eldar looks weird with wheels.

I want to mount these bikes on bike bases with the light wall behind them, any trick on forming/painting it? I was going to go for a hard plastic (like the removable dividers from a plano case, for instance).

Painting it will be the hardest.
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>>43862506

I too am balls deep in skeletons.

After a 15 or so year break from whfb i got back into it with my bro. Here's the first 5, progress from right to left in regards to painting order - trying different undercoats, bases, washes, etc
>>
>>43862680
Jeah the gluing on this model is pain in the ass, since pressing little too hard bends the cockpit easily and some other parts as well.

I also had a little "accident" with GWs old Black ink and the vendetta has now some excessive "weathering". Drybrushing is atleast someting you can (maybe) fix

Your green looks solid, but i'd add something that tells its flying against the wind.

I wouldn't worry about the pilot, since you can always make up some backround about him/her being temporary replacement from some decimated battle group.
>>
>>43866449
>The army has a Tron look and feel, so some actual tron models will look out of place. Too bad there aren't any tron-like jetbikes that I could find. Eldar looks weird with wheels.
Well there are other manufacturers that have nice jetbikes too. Admittedly a little harder to come by and probably more expensive but worth looking into.

You could also have a look see if you find some epic aftermarket battlecruisers or something like that, that when cut in half and but to the front and back of a jetbike will give you a non-standard jetbike look.

Not sure how I'd go about designing something reminiscent of the Lightcycles without the wheels though, since they are the most recognizable part of that design.


As for the light walls, that's pretty ambitious.
There are a few things you could try though.
First thing that comes to mind would be acrylic glass in the right color. Should be able to cut and sand it and bend it using heat and then bring it back up to a shine with a polish and some gloss varnish. Worth looking into. Good thing is the bright neon color will give you a luminous effect, especially if you paint the hidden side of the glass withe or something like that. And you can usually get sample sizes that are perfect for modeling purposes and pretty cheap.
Next thing would be watereffects. Have a look at how people do waterfalls and stuff like that. They usually take a piece of foil and then add water effects gel over that. Usually you can tint those things. Assuming you manage a smooth application you could get the right look.
Last thing would be plain old plastic and tinting it like people do with canopies from scale planes. Assuming you have some spare clear plastic around and you want something super thin.
>>
>>43866590

> Not sure how I'd go about designing something reminiscent of the Lightcycles without the wheels though, since they are the most recognizable part of that design.

True that, which is the hardest part about this. Thought about the acrylic as well, but dismissed it, the effect will be cool, but wouldn't be painted which is a no-no for me.

Hadn't thought about the water effects though, that's an interesting idea. I think it would be difficult to get it flat enough to look like the wall. I will probably to with tinting a clear bit of plastic, I think.

Anyone have a guide to fully paint the Lightwall instead of cheating the effect?
>>
>>43863060
>>43863087

Bit off to be holding a shield and a pollaxe in either hand though right?
If you just shortened the pollaxe it'd make a perfectly fine onehander, but just holding it like that looks silly, especially with the hand guard where the other hand is supposed to go.
>>
>>43865732
roll
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>>43866046
Forge World stupid sexy mon-keigh bikes.
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>>43865732
Here. It's pretty mediocre but at least it was fun to paint.
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>>43862948
Im just dont understand how GW could drop the multipose from the old skeletons.
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>>43867333
Looks quite nice
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>>43865732
Rolling for new army paint scheme.
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>>43867444
You gotta be shitting me.
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>>43867444
>>
>>43867444
Ultramarines it is!
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>>43867444
blue on blue on blue.... tricky...
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>>43867493
not that anon, but it can work.

Darkish blue as main color, a close-to-white-blue as first secondary and a more purple-ish blue as second secondary. Could work.
>>
>>43867499
Oh certainly, it's just going to be a bit difficult creating actual contrast, unless like you suggest, you use wildly different blues to stand in for other colours.
>>
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Stealth suits for my Tau force, going to be paired with a currently half built ghostkeel for the stealth cadre

Need to do the next stage of highlioghts and lenses. Also the electric effect of them decloaking.
>>
>>43867598
Fuck me, that looks awesome. I first thought "Fuck, it really looks like they're decloaking", even without the electric effect. How will you proceed?
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>>43867667
Cheers.
electric sort of effect, most likely caledor sky -> temple guard blue -> white scar

shit, need to drill those fusion blaster barrels too.
>>
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I can't bring myself to paint those. Help.
I've been collecting them for months, and they just sit there, begging to be painted.
So far I only painted light infantry and exosuits, but nothing that big. I'm afraid to fuck up big time. Plus, I play Farsight Enclave, so slapping a solid red/black/grey color on them would probably look like shit. I'm willing to do camo (Digital would be perfect), but once more, I'm afraid to fuck up.
Is it a common syndrome when you get into the hobby, or am I just being retarded?
>>
>>43867759
Had the same issue, didn't want to paint mine until I had an airbrush to tackle the long single panels.
In the end I just sucked it up and got to it.
Thin paints and a broad brush are your friends.
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Pre Heresy Night Lords slowly coming along.
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>>43867759
Same here brah, the big stuff is scary.

Have a black dragon for my Dark Elves that have been collecting dust for several years. No, that ain't true. I haven't even removed the plastic wrapping from the box...
>>
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>>43867815
>Be not afraid little painter
>Believe in yourself
>>
>>43867333

If you aren't very used to painting yet, the simple method of using slight variations of basecoat colors next to each other will really make the model come to life. You could for example, give the back plate a much darker color or make the grip on the front almost black.

The tip of the gun could be washed with some black, followed by brown, followed by purple (druchii violet) to give it a discoloration effect. For eye lenses, just make the center a little bit brighter with white and then give it a colored wash, followed by a tiny dot of white in the center after the wash.
>>
>>43867794

>night lords
>ever not being heretical as fuck

They're coming out real nice, but didn't the pre-heresy NL already have lightning on their armor?
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>>43867444
Let me post some chapters.
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>>43867444
>>
>>43868352
>>43868342

Relictors were the best ;_;
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>>43863087
I actually save loads of pics from /wip/.

Helps a lot and hood for inspiration.
Pic related is my favorite, I'm trying to get that sort of armored car feeling with my orks as well.
>>
>>43868365
Well they're still alive and getting some stories once in a while.
Angron's monolith comes to my mind.
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>>43866784
>questioning the physical strength of a Barrow Wight
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I have a dilemma. Don't know if painting the rest of the cart's parts or the corpse pile.
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>>43868304
Thanks anon, I'll keep your advice in mind when I paint up some minis that will actually see play.
>>
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Opinions?
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>>43868957
Tidy up your desk
>>
>>43868957
Looks good, would have made a platform somwhere in the middle of the staircase though to make it playable. Looks too step to put a model on.
>>
>>43868957
shit pleb taste in anime

I hope your minis are narrow enough to balance on those steps or you're gonna have a bad time
>>
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>>43868978
I really should, I'm a bit of a slob, but it's only my desk. Most of the place is meticulous.
>>43869009
Didn't even think about that until I made it. Silly me.
>>
>>43869044
>Didn't even think about that until I made it. Silly me.
At least you made something. I'm sitting on a mountain of supplies and I end up overthinking everything doing nothing.
>>
>>43869065
The way I see it, I just keep making and something will come of it. I've got boxes of terrain I've made, so even though most are shit, I've got it to use.
>>
>>43868957
You should remove those stairs to make it playable, or replace them with gravels. Keep those fancy yellow stone wall and recycle them, they look pretty nice. Maybe you can convert them in some kind of remainings of ancient building that was destroyed.

The way I see it, those stairs take too much space, and even if they provide cover to hide behind, they will be totally useless, as the mini sitting inside will probably have its line of sight obstructed by those.
If you really wish to keep the "corridor" thing that forces a mini to climb a straight line to get inside the building, you should remove the steps and make it a regular destroyed corridor.
That's just my two cents.
>>
Two questions

1. Best way to strip models?

2. Tips for metallics?
>>
>>43869132
No. No no. All he has to do is carve a slot into each step so he can kind of wedge a base into it
>>
>>43868957
Oh and also, try to give your white walls some texture, if they're meant to be non-metallic.
Just rub sandpaper on them for a bit, if you manage to. Then you can poke a few holes into them with the tip of a ballpen and turn it around so it makes nice bullet impacts. But I guess you were planning to do it anyway.
>>
>>43869133
>1. Best way to strip models?
What models? Acetone or non-acetone stuff if non-metal

>2.
Vallejo
>>
>>43869133

Metal models, nail polish remover. Non-metal, concentrated floor soaps are probably the safest though break fluid and a bunch of other stuff like oven cleaners get the job done much faster. I hear dettol works great as long as it doesn't come into contact with water at any point. It smells like shit so I haven't bothered yet since floor soaps might take a while, but they just werk.

Metallics cover extremely well except for gold, so do them early as they are easy to fix. Don't thin the metallics, just use a wet brush and wipe off any excess paint first. Not wiping it of will create chunks and streaks. Water will make it look like stripper glitter. If your metals are dried out, add a little flow improver to it.
>>
>>43869169
>>43869193
I can also recommend Scale75 metallics (and Alchemy paints) if you can get them. They're beautiful, fine grain metallic paints. They airbrush well, but work just fine with a brush too.
>>
>>43869164
Opinion?
>>43869169
Yea that's the idea. I've got some grout that I'll paint a thin rough coat onto all the parts that's not balsa.
>>
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>>43869216
Crap. Forgot photo
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>>43869133
1. Depends on where you live.
If in EU, get your hands on something named "Glanzer", the GREEN bottle. It strips paint off both metal and plastic miniatures just fine. After immerging the minis for 6 hours (Some people have left them for 2 weeks, and even the plastic ones weren't damaged one bit after so long), I just had to wash them with water, and the paint fucked off without any effort. I'd still recommend scrubbing a bit with a toothbrush, though. Pic related, those had a fuckton of paint on them.

2. I can't really help you. The only thing I know for sure is that you'd better varnish them (I think that's the right therm. IIRC, GWs equivalent is "Purity Seal" spray) if you don't want your paint to crackle after a bit. Also, I was told that since they're metal, they're very sensitive to hot and cold temperatures (The metal slightly changes volume, so it fucks up your paint job).
>>
>>43869240
Stick a model on there
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>>43868371
Holy shit... someone saved my buggy pic.

Have some Waaaghmour to celebrate.
>>
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>>43869304
I actually have several pics of your cars, with different stages of completion.

Saving this one as well.
>>
>>43869316
Wow i'm actually kind of honoured someone remembers me, would you like any help or advice?
>>
>>43865732
Rollan
>>
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>>43869292
Kind of works
>>
This looks to be a cool hobby but I'm way too avaricious for it.
>>
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I want to start a fairly fluffy Altansar craftworld army, but not painted for a decade or so. Wanted something slightly different to the normal dark red/pink and bone. How's this for a proof of concept? Ignore the shitty gem, I think I'm going to change those to black. Probably bone coloured shuriken catas.
>>
>>43869487
Looks good m8.

I think that gem might actually looks good in a bright red, almost pink.
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>>43869347
Just for the colours of you buggy honestly, the rest I've more or less figured it out thanks.
>>
>>43869480
Just give GW the middle finger and look on flea market websites.
I bought $350 worth of brand new minis for $80 the other day. You wouldn't believe how many people buy a shitload of minis, get tired after painting two, and end up selling everything for dirt cheap. Brand new and cheap minis are pretty rare though.
But if you're just willing to play, you can get this for about 100 bucks on the Internet. That's roughly the price of the two armored vehicles when you buy them at GW.
>>
>>43869564
Base morfang brown, then baneblade brown, wash with agrax then higlights in tallan sand and final highlights by mixing a little white with tallan sand.

That's my formula for all my armour, boyz karki is a little different.
>>
>>43869480
Or that kind of army for 150 bucks.
But I guess a huge part of what makes the hobby interesting is the assembling and painting of your own minis.
I now realize that I'm a fucktard for posting this in a WIP thread. I apologize.
>>
>>43865732
Been trying to figure out a good scheme for my Imperial Guard/Empire kitbash army. Might as well roll.
>>
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Finished this lad today, painting Bronze is way harder than normal steel in my opinion

Also, I put a rock and a skull as my previous base were kind of empty

Any tips about the leadbelchers? I still have 3 to do
>>
>>43869931

He looks nice and crispy but the flame should be much brighter. I mean come on man, black flame tips?
>>
>>43870033
It was my first time painting Fire, I had no idea what to do

But yeah, I'm going to make it brighter next time, thanks for the tip!
>>
>>43870043

Ah in that case, try making the whole thing white and "darklight" it. Then you brush on some yellow on the edges in fairly broad strokes followed by an edge highlight of orange and maybe a hint of red at the very tips.
>>
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So, I could decide between a wardrobe I dont need, a couch I would never sit on and the possibility to make my own gaming table.

Well, I remember some sort of tiles had screws or something to connect them with each other easily and I would like to copy that idea.
>>
>>43870078
will do, thanks a lot!
>>
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I really need to build a lightbox
>>
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First Super Dungeon Explore figure i've painted, I seriously hate the amount of mold lines on the damn things though, just when you think you've got them all you notice dozens more.
>>
>>43870106
She looks amazing anon
>>43870129
I only see one on the arm, he looks cute btw. The blue thing on the helmet is neat
>>
>>43867759
I'm slowly working on painting a Tervigon and I know this feeling. There are just so many fucking nooks and crannies on this mother.
>>
>>43870190
That's understandable for a Tervigon, but Hammerheads should be easy as FUCK to paint compared to this.
Seeing how much trouble I have to make an uniform layer on a single Fire Warrior armor plate, I think I'm just afraid of the result I'd get with those.
>>
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So it happened that I was playing around with some of the unassembled parts of my broadsidesand crisis suits trying to come up with a less fatty broadside.

Not committing to anything yet. Just thinking...
>>
>>43870377
I was having the same problem with my Khorne Berzerkers before (priming black and painting red was a mistake, dear god) but I managed to do it with three or four very, very thin coats. It gives you a really even distribution on your paint.
>>
>>43870396
Nice thighs!
>>
>>43865732
Roll.
>>
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wasnt someone looking for the cargo lifters the Khornestruction Workers used?
http://www.miniaturescenery.com/ProductPage.asp?Code=VH2FRKHVYRAD
>>
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Anyone ordered evilcraft marines yet? How's the quality?
Im digging their CSM for chosens.
>>
>>43870524
cotdam that would look great with the dark vengeance CSM. Speaking of which, why don't we have multipart chosen CSM the same way we got a new hellbrute
>>
>>43870190

Speaking of Tervigons, how long are its claw blades?

I'm wanting to use that style of blade and arm for some of my Legion of Everblight guys, but anything longer than two inches is going to look way too big.
>>
>>43870589
Do you mean the first set of claws or the second set of claws it uses as its forelegs?

The first set of claws (which are the weapon claws I believe) have a /\/ shape (from claw to ball-socket). The first part (claw-tip to first joint) is 7 cm, the second part (joint to joint) is ~4cm, and the last part (joint to ball-socket) is 2 cm.
>>
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>>43870627

Should have specified. I forgot they have a shitton of claws.

I was referring to these ones.
>>
>>43870524
That looks good but I'm wary of all these retailers that have some amazing ads and then you end up with a flashed to death with bubbles everywhere piece of shit.
>>
>>43870672
thats why Im asking, stuff looks like finecast and very brittle.
>>
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>>43870643
See >>43870627 then
I also took some pictures for scale. Vallejo edition.
>>
>>43870767

Oh cool, that should be perfect size then.

Thanks anon.
>>
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>>43870767
GW edition.
>>
>>43870784
>>43870767
sort your whitebalance
>>
>>43870813
Dude this phone is so much trash I'm amazed it can take pictures with a higher resolution than 1 pixel. White balance is asking for too much.
>>
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>>43867759
>I'm willing to do camo (Digital would be perfect), but once more, I'm afraid to fuck up.

Look up anarchy models. They do re-usable spray masks for various camo schemes that make it easy. Theyre intended for airbrushes but you could easily use spray cans in your desired base colours.
>>
>>43869546
Thanks. Hmm okay I'll try that out.
>>
>>43870853
You can fix white balance in post-prod ya dingus
>>
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Finally gotten around to assembling the old riptide i salvaged from a friend who quit.

A few questions though
>General consencus seems to be that broken glass is best snow
>PVA glue or super glue to keep it to the bast ?
>Do you mix alittle bit of white in
>Safety tips ?

>brush or foam best for edge chipping and battle damage ?

Also considering having a crashed sniper drone somewhere on the base
>>
>>43871044
to the base*
>>
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I used magnets for the sword and shield to make it future proof regarding conversion policies
>>
>>43870874
Fuck, that looks neat!
Sadly, I think it would be too costy for me to afford said spray cans, on top of the spray mask.
I wonder if you can just brush-paint over them.
Anyway, thanks, fellow Anon!
>>
>>43871145
Good choice of weapons, and even though I already told you once, good painting.
>>
>>43870524
Looks badass. I may buy it here soon. If I end up getting it I'll report back
>>
>>43871879
Yeah, its on sale right now, 32€ for 5 CSM, quite expensive compared to GW CSM but also way more detailed.
And TheDarkWorks has a new siege ram for the CSM landspeeder too...
>>
>>43870784
Close your GW pot properly.
>>
>>43872327
Yes mom.
>>
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My XV8 to XV88 squating conversion fully painted.

In it's first match has failed every single rail shot.
>>
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>>43873100
DUDE WEED LMAO
>>
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I've always been shit at making good bases. Watched a few videos this morning and tried my hand at an urban base.
>>
>>43873378

Those look pretty great.

What videos where you looking at?
>>
>>43873100
I'm sorry but that looks like a particularly cheap fisher price toy.
>>
>>43873378
So you gonna tell us how you did that or what? Very nice btw.
>>
>>43868804
Ive said it before and I'll say it again:

DANK
A
N
K

Save the spooky fire for very last
>>
>>43873405
>>43873411

That would be the Eons of Battle youtube page. Tons of base tutorials, some good some bad. But this is the one I used specifically

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TvsDOIPWWI
>>
>>43869459
hollow them out a bit more, add some sand/rocks to imply the stairs were blasted apart
>>
About to buy from Raging Heroes, they offer Resin or White metal for the models, which is superior? I'be heard horror stories from here about resin, but also that metal blurrs detail.
>>
>>43873684
metal is more durable
resin is easier to work with (if toxic)

it's all down to personal taste. and I have no idea what RH's metal and resin is like.
>>
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>>43866509
Nice skeletons dude, now check my skeletons!
>>
>>43873406
In what way?

I know the camera is crap so no details can be properly shown.
>>
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>>
>>43874201
better than most propainted nightmares, but holy kek, that price
>>
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What do you think of my thunderer conversion so far? I'm still printing the gun now, it will be done in 20 min.
>>
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>>43873378
and the squad all on their bases finally
>>
>>43865732
I have scions to torment
>>
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>>43874239

He's not that bad but fuck, a bit disillusioned
>>
>>43874595
Grey and white.
Iunno
>>
>>43873590

http://www.amazon.com/Foam-Sheet-X12-2mm-Black-pack/dp/B005M2Q9MO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1448744989&sr=8-4&keywords=craft+foam

Is this the sort of foam the guy in the video mentioned?
>>
>>43871044
Are you me? I'm seeking for the exact same kind of knowledge, but so far, I've got very little success.
I'll try to help you the best way I can, from what I could gather.
-Broken glass seem to be a very good snow effect, but I heard it was pretty hazardous to manipulate, especially when applying it. Gloves, at LEAST are expected. One of those masks used in the medical field would be a nice addition too to help your lungs not to be ridden with microscopic glass shards, I think.
I'm going for a "cold planet" setup, so snow wouldn't be the pussy-tier snow that's usually shown on most bases. It would most likely be Fire Warrior knee-high snow type of snow.
Here's a guide that an helpful Anon linked to me (B is the way I'll go):
Just search for "details-8-ways-to-base-with-snow" in Google because I don't know how to put links without being tackled by that fucking spambot
I can't help you for battle damage, as I consider that the Tau are not really the type of dudes that would allow their suits to go to the battlefield with damaged armor plates. I mean, they may have expandable ressources, but their men are to be kept safe, since they're very few compared to other races. At least in my retarded headcanon.
If you ever try those methods linked in this post, please post results, as I'm too much of a pussy (and a poor pleb) to try them myself.
>>
>>43874480
I love this.
>>
>>43874679
yeah that's it, If you're in the states you can get it at Walmart, or any hobby store like Michaels.
>>
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My gun is done
>>
>>43874891

Good to know.

I tried to make bricks out of green stuff for my Malifaux crew and they turned out really shitty, so this should be a nice replacement.
>>
>>43874895
How are you going to get rid of that layering effect?
>>
>>43874895
>"Fuck-you" caliber
I love this.
>>
New to miniature painting, am I supposed to assemble first or paint first? I've been doing assembly first but then painting is harder, but now I don't know how I'm going to spray prime my minis to paint them if I don't paint then assemble.
>>
>>43868321
Lightning will be the very last thing I do on them........shits hard
>>
>>43874921
careful sanding with progressively finer sandpaper probably works just fine. Takes a while though.
>>
>>43874933
I'm using the turret for other things so I figured it would be good to have a demolisher cannon.
>>
>>43874921
Yes, I'm using a file for now but I intend to buy some green stuff to act as body putty.
>>
>>43874968

It's a preference thing.

Ideally you can assemble most of your model, but leave stuff that would cover other parts like shields, capes, or arms off until later.
>>
>>43871044
>Safety tips ?

Yeah, don't use crushed glass on miniatures that get transported around and handled a lot.
>>
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>>43875107
Forgot picture
>>
>>43874968
ASSEMBLE! Or else you'll end up with nubs that you'll need to paint anyway. Now you can leave certain parts off that would otherwise make it difficult to get into areas with a brush. For instance I usually leave the arms off and paint them separately.
>>
>>43865732
rolling for Ad-Mech
>>
I don't know where I can access green stuff except by mail order, and it's prohibitively expensive in my region.

Is modeling clay an acceptable alternative? I live near a small crafts store and I can get that cheap.
>>
>>43875180
stuff like apoxy sculpt makes a pretty good alternative. Perhaps they can order some for you? Or perhaps they can order green stuff. It's more commonly known as Kneadatite (lot cheaper in that form too).
>>
I'm afraid to use the green stuff I got awhile back
>>
>>43874679
>>43874891
>>43874917
Another alternative is to buy dental plaster from your local hardware shop and get some Hirst Arts moulds. Goddamn are they sexy
>>
>>43874480
The bases really add to the presentation, good job dude.
>>
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>>43871044
>>43874688

I did my snow effect with regular GW snow flock. I used thinned out PVA glue (with a lot of water), brushed it on most of the base, and gently let the "snow fall" in a natural way. When pleased I repeated the glue step, by gently dabbing certain spots with the glue mix. I then again, gently, went back over with snow flock, trying to make it look realistic.
This process can be repeated to build up layers of snow collecting in certain areas, and looks pretty good even up close, but looks great from a tabletop view (arms length).
>>
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R8 my new herald
>>
>>43862141
how come every tau player sucks at painting?
>>
>>43875986
Min max
>>
>>43875986
because all other anime miniatures they buy, comes already painted
>>
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Some Bloodreavers I finished (minus bases) this week.
>>
>>43876036
looks great, what did you use for blood?
>>
>>43876036
They'd look nicer on 25mms, really. No idea why GW went with 32s.
>>
>>43875931
overprimed/10
>>
>>43876123
Thanks, anon. The blood is done with gw's Blood for the Blood God technical paint.
>>
>>43876036
Do you think you could rank and file them 25mm square bases?
Been thinking about getting some as Chaos Marauders.
>>
>>43876036

I like them, but the skin could do with some skin wash.
>>
>>43876307
If you fiddled with it enough I think you could.
>>
>>43876317
The skin is washed, a combination of shit lighting and potato camera results in it looking flat.
>>
>>43876318
I'll resume monitoring ebay then.
Thanks.
>>
>>43876345

By my beard, it is washed! You're absolutely right, must be the poor light that blended it together.
>>
just ordered some Perry mini's with the intention of converting them to Solar Auxilia, who are nearly as big as space marines.

I got the puffy pants civil war dudes so hopefully the scale will be easier to fix.
>>
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>>43876169
>implying
>>
>>43876367
AoS starter models are pretty cheap already, just get lucky with an auction.
>>
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>>43876508
>AoS starter models are pretty cheap already, just get lucky with an auction.

... except the Blood Reavers. Unlike most of what comes in the box, the Blood Reavers are, as Chaos Marauders, perfectly suited to Oldhammer games, and thus sell easier and for more money than the other models.
>>
>>43875724

I use GW snow as fungus
>>
>>43876759
Oh dang, that sucks.
>>
>>43874688
Secretly we are all you, gue'la.
We are one greater good.

And thanks for the advice my man.
Going for a similar 'cold planet' thing, but with a dash of urban warfare since i can't stop my love for ice camo breacher commandos operating in a city.
I'll probably try out the glass thing with a single base just to get a feel for. Got a gasmask and some disposable gloves that should be good for safety.
gonna look up the guide you couldnt link later.

Will definitly post results once i can get my lazy ass back to the painting table.

>>43875107
Why ? Please enlighten a stupid fool

>>43875724
Hmm the broken glass method has a nicer more 'wet' look to it.

Might combine the two methods in some weird way.
>>
Working on my ad mech

Skirtari xrm119-jade is in the middle ask i start on its squad.
>>
Just finished my Alpha Legion contemptor
>>
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>>43878705
aaand pic didn't show up
>>
>>43877372
I still have a huge jar of glass powder that I made a few months ago with a mortar and pestle. Not a single speck of it has been used since. Which saddens me, as I really want to know how well it works.
>>
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>>43878674
>White AdMech
aw yiss, I hope you have some robots too because that's literally the only color scheme that makes them look good.
>>
>>43878750
From what i've seen, it looks pretty damn good.

Hell, i'd have loved to buy that jar from you, so i don't have to waste the energy of breaking one of my vodka bottles.
>>
>>43878844
Vodka bottles!? Shit, I just buy glass cups from the nearest Dollar Store, for ya'know.. A dollar each? Then I put them in a box, smack the cup with a sledgehammer, and then move the contents to a Mortar to crush it into a fine powder. The jar I have is filled with like, 5 coca cola glasses. Which is more glass powder than I think I could ever realistically use.

Anyway, I still hate seeing people use the GW "Snow powder", which looks like pasty garbage. Yet everyone I've talked to about the idea of using crushed glass just cringes, and almost universally say, "Wouldn't that cut the shit out of your hands?"
>>
>>43874606

He's illusioned

Disillusioned is what someone needs to make him.
>>
>>43879005
Well, the number of empty vodka bottles are in a stark majority to any other kind of glass at my place .........

Might as well use what you got at hand
>>
>>43874201
Skylander/10
>>
>>43868342
Where can I find one of these for csm? Google only finds one and it's so small it's illegable
>>
>>43878732
You should probably work on your brush control. Those edge highlights are just way too thick and messy
>>
Alright, well let's have an oddly fun question for WIP. I'm turning 21 in well, 3 hours. What's everyone's favorite booze to drink to while painting, if any?
>>
>>43879998
don't drink and paint

it's just not a good recipe
>>
>>43879998
Drinking and painting doesn't sound like a good idea
>>
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>>43879271
>Where can I find one of these for csm? Google only finds one and it's so small it's illegible

Well, there's this one ...
>>
>>43873100
Hey anon, /fit/ here. How many squats did he do to get thighs like that? SS+GOMAD?
>>
>>43865732
Got my Whitch Hunters coming in the mail.

Rolling for scheme
>>
>>43882172
>Whitch Hunters
>Primary Red
>Secondary Black and Yellow

I feel I'm being trolled here...

Rolling again for my undead warband
>>
>>43865732
I have a few Inquisition goons I need to do myself.
>>
>>43874445
noticeably printed/10
>>
>>43882261
Red, Green, and Black, eh? I wonder how you'll make that work.

Might as well have a go at this for my Sisters of Sigmar.
>>
>>43878674
01010100 01101000 01101001 01101110 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 01110010 00100000 01110000 01100001 01101001 01101110 01110100 01110011
>>
>>43881020
Cool tyvm
>>
>>43870396
Toss another set of legs on it, and that would be sweeeeeet
>>
>>43879271
Lexicanum has a visual list for all space marine chapters including a lot of the more obscure ones too.
The CSM list you have to click on to see each warband though. Sill might be interesting. Also has all the sources if you want to read up on something that catches your fany
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Chaos_Space_Marine_Legions_and_Warbands_%28List%29
>>
I recently finished up Dynamo, and had a blast. Most fun I've had painting a model in a while now.
>>
>>43883733
Tbh I don't care much for Warjacks and most other Warmachine models. But this one is painted very nicely.
And you also did a lovely job on the base. Nice work.
>>
>>43865732
oh dear god
>>
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Hey all, im working on a minotaurs army, however i wanted to get an idea of what colors are used for the hull, i know its not a straight bromze color, i know there is a varnish on it with sponged bronze as highlights, but have no idea what color it's based with. Can anyone take a guess?
>>
I need help, /tg/.
I'm planning on getting into 40k pretty soon by getting some necrons, but I can't come up with a decent color scheme. I like the nihilakh dynasty's aesthetics but I want to have my own colors. Can you post some necrons you've done for inspiration?
>>
>>43873778

Niiice! I am loving the skellie love in this thread
>>
>>43873778
What's the model on the back left?
>>
>>43884237
reaper vampire
>>
>>43878732
Which paint are people using for Alpha Legion? I've seen some that have a very nice blue-green (more blue than green) or a nice metallic blue.
>>
>>43884259
Is she single?
>>
>>43884506
I myself am fond of this lady (be sure to check out them alt angles wink wink)
https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/female%20necromancer/sku-down/02986#detail/02986_G
>>
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some going over is needed, but its the basic paint scheme. Just playing tau was not nearly weaboo enough, I also had to copy my favorite anime, robotech/macross.
>>
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>>43886714
magnetized.
>>
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>>43886736
I think once I clean up the sloppy black lineing im going to call it good. There is alot of detail on this sucker.
>>
>>43883015
Nightmares of Christmas' Past. My vampire will be Claws, dregs will be slaver elves (fat ones), necro will be Mrs Claws and wolves will be reindeers. Ghouls for elves and zombie nutcrackers and I'm set!
>>
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>>43886749
>>
>>43886714

THIN

>>43886736

YOUR

>>43886749

PAINTS

>>43886758
>>43886758
>>43886758

PLEASE
>>
Been wracking my brains for a Painboy on Warbike conversion. I hit upon the idea of sticking an operating table on the side like a side-car for quick (and messy!) operations on the battlefield.

Trouble is I have absolutely zero idea where to source such a piece of kit from. That leaves scratchbuilding, which I'm not the best at. Anyone got any ideas?
>>
>>43886769

Its GW's shit primer. It went on thick I was pissed.
>>
>>43886801

Have him ride a space marine attack bike. Use a piece of plasticard on the side car with an ork lying down on it with blood all over.
>>
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>>43886769

>>Looks at pictures
>>Reads comment

I think you have painting ptsd. This isnt a case of thick paint, just not the best lining. Here have some thick paint.
>>
>>43886714
>>43886736
>>43886749
>>43886758
>>43886817


>some going over is needed
more like simple green and start over.
pretty sure someone already told you to thin your paints when you had just the shield done but I see you disregarded it and went ahead with slapping on gobs of layers on the rest of your model. I don't see how you can blame GW primer when your red went on just as thick.

If you used a brush on primer I'd really recommend a spray. If you used a spray then I would practice on sprues or something as you were probably holding the can far to close to the model itself which would explain the thickness.
Also use a wash for the recesses instead of trying to paint them, gives a much cleaner look.
>>
>>43886817
>camouflage to match wall spackle
>>
>>43886882

sounds like that someone was you.
sounds like your butthurt nobody listens.

In the future, I shall endeavor to continue my thick paint madness, and posting them for my amusement, knowing somewhere, a neckbeard is crushing his fedora in his figurative hands.
>>
>>43886882
please post self painted examples that are better. Granted this shouldnt be hard, but you sound like the kind of guy who just likes to bitch at others. And dont steal credit for others works, you OWN picture. Reverse image search is a thing.
>>
File: 20151129_103654.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]
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I think I fucked up.
I got two Crisis suits that were primed white with probably cheap ass paint spray.
I tried to remove it because it was crackling and the dude primed it in a way that made big paint lumps.
This is the result. I've been trying two different products (Acetone-less nail polish remover, and Ammoniac-based floor cleaner.) And been scrubbing for some time.
Will it be catastrophic if I try to prime them as they are? Any idea to remove what's left? (About 70% of the paint)
>>
>>43883015
>>43884160
I did a metallic blue base with white secondary as my scheme. No pics because new phone and they're all packed away. Looks pretty nice imo
>>
>>43886927

Yeah, ruin your own expensive models in order to piss off some random guy on the internet, great idea. Why don't you cut off your nose at the same time, to spite your face?
>>
>>43886847
AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH
>>
>>43886736
Go over all the lines with black until they are all perfectly black. Then correct the surronding area until they are all perfectly regular and clean.

You mustn't paint black outlines if they are not absolutely clean and perfect, because otherwise the miniature looks really dirty
>>
File: Iron Hands.jpg (471KB, 1632x1224px) Image search: [Google]
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>>43886927
I wasn't that person, I thought it was funny because you dismissed the constructive criticism with an lolnope.

>>43886940
Sure here are my Iron Hands. tear them down all you want.
>>
>>43886990

Test it on a part you can easily replace, other than that you're going to have to scratch the paint out of the recesses if it's too clogged up
>>
>>43887118
Not even that guy, but ok I'll play.

Did you drill one barrel and decided that it was good enough for all of them? Shit dude, how are the rest supposed to shoot with solid metal rods instead of nice, drilled barrels?

Also, unpainted purity seals and it may just be the picture but it doesn't seem like you did any highlights.

Far right Marine seems to have some issues with his left shoulder being a bit out of place.

And you could do far more with the lenses than giving them a flat red paint.
>>
>>43886817

You can claim damages at GW if you take pictures and contact customer support. They'll send you a new can and replacement models.
>>
>>43887177
Indeed. I even got a replacement + a free Belial after their Purity Seal fucked up my Deathwing Knights.
>>
>>43887175
That's a retarded level of nitpicking you have there. Congratulations.
>>
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>>43887235
>pointing out missing highlights, basic details or drilled barrels is 'retarded levels of nitpicking'

Uh ok.
>>
>>43886817
>>43887177
It's like people sueing a coffeeshop after they burned their tongue on hot coffee.
I hear the term 'bad can' tossed around so often, I can't believe that people are just not able to admit they fucked up.

Seriously. It's not rocket science, you shake the shit out of the can and then light spray your stuff with it in a few layers. What this looks like is, what happens if you just spray the model in one coat.

That GW supposedly replaces stuff like that can only be explained by them not wanting to deal with somebody too stupid to use a spraycan. They'd rather chuck some merch in your general direction to shut you up rather than put up with your idiocy.

I know that sounds mean, but honestly, what kind of defect should a 'bad can' have? There are two possibilities, there isn't enough pressure in the can so nothing comes out or there is something wrong with the paint, in which case an entire batch would be fucked and certainly something that wouldn't go unnoticed.
>>
>>43865732
roll
>>
>>43886847
I love the look on his face

Like some sort of mutated melting screaming thing
>>
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>>43887175
Thanks.
drilling out barrels is something I am afraid to do, I fuck up on it more times than I get it right due to my hand slipping so I gave up for the time being.
lenses are pretty much the same situation, on the times I try it doesn't look right to me. Once I get those down I'll be extremely happy to go back over my models.

There are Eshin grey highlights though I should follow up with something lighter as I'll admit they look non existent, and aren't existent on the shoulder pad of the guy with the unpainted purity seal.

It's hard to find time to paint with my work/school/workstudy schedule but I finally got around to working on my 3 drop pods
>>
>>43887300
You can use a hobby knife, sculpting tool, a needle file or something else with a sharp end on it to make a small indentation in the middle of the barrel to prevent your drill from slipping
>>
>>43887271
Or they know that their products can get fucked up and replace your shit because of that. You think they'd even find out if a batch of spray primer was 'bad' before they sold it?
Fuck no. And even if, no company voluntarily admits fault.
>>
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>>43887300
>drop pods
My sympathies. I nearly got PTSD from doing 4 of them recently.
Here a wip pic from a while back of my marines. Only the one in the center is finished. Got a pretty simple recipe for decent looking lenses.

black base
dark colour up to a small spot in the outer corner
lighter colour to the middle
thin white line on the bottom of the inner corner and a white dot in the black spot.
>>
>>43887320
hobby knife is what I tried in the past but its hard to make a deep enough impression for the drill and have it be perfectly centered.
I did pick up a set of sculpting tools since then so I'll give that that a shot.
>>
>>43887271

You clearly have no experience with mass production, so why not start with Deming's Out Of The Crisis. Shit happens, companies have mechanisms in place to deal with it.
>>
>>43887334
>You think they'd even find out if a batch of spray primer was 'bad' before they sold it?

Err...yes. Batch testing is standard as a form of quality control across all areas of manufacturing

Inb4:
>GW
>quality control
>>
>>43887365
Defintely a pain in the ass. so. many. harnesses.
Any future drop pods I am going to do a metallic spray paint for the interior, slap some nuln oil on, and call it good. All those nooks and crannies by hand is to damn tedious.

The quality of highlighting on your Dark Angels is damn good. I hope to get to that level someday.
>>
>>43886752
Holy shit that's a great idea! Next campaign I'm doing this.
>>
>>43887118
I Iron hands? look more like Iron legs
>>
>>43876759
You still can get the 20 dudes for around 20 bucks, which is a decent price for 20 really good looking miniatures.
>>
File: EAwut.jpg (69KB, 562x530px) Image search: [Google]
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Couple of questions:

>Best way to keep your paint from drying to quick on the palette?

>What's a good starter brush/Brush set with sturdy bristles?
>>
>>43887555
If you need to use a really big amount of paint and don't want to bother buying, maintaining or creating a wet pallette you can add some paint retarder, like Vallejo's.
>>
>>43887555

Check out the Army Painter brush set.
>>
>>43887459

Nigga that's just a three part highlight

>base caliban green
>wide highlight of warboss
>smaller highlight of warpstone glow
>extreme highlight with moot green

Use a small brush and some patience to get the hang of it but you should be able to pull off this level of highlights after doing 2 or 3 minis.
>>
>>43887555

>take container you can seal with a lid, like something for food storage
>buy some cheap ass synthetic sponges
>cut to size
>put enough water on the bottom for the sponges to suck it up so the top is nice and wet
>put on some wax paper used for baking on top

It'll cost you like 15 bucks to make but it'll last you decades.
>>
>>43887621
Nigga it's not even 3 parts.

Just did warpstone and moot green. Good enough for tactical marines.
>>
File: Contempt.jpg (45KB, 960x717px) Image search: [Google]
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WIP Thousand Sons Contemptor
Don't know what red to highlight with.
Pretty bad sculpt in places but for $20 I'm not going to complain.
>>
>>43887583
Alright, thanks man.
I'm pretty much playing around and learning to walk right now. (Action figure project).

>>43887608
I got the set, it's just the Regiment brush keep fraying like a bitch. I'm very gentle with it, but it still just "Shotgun spreads".

>>43887632
Thanks, I pretty much have the stuff around the house.
>>
>>43887649

Sssssh, only dreams now

But seriously, 3 color highlights are the shit and while a little more time consuming, so much easier for beginners
>>
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Posting decently painted WIP to counter those horrid ones. Also, these secondary guns are downright shit with visible lines and warping.
>>
>>43867722
>Some reposting my pics

I have never known this feel /tg/

I havent sculpted much else recently. Got some resin to recast but the rubber I got to make moulds is awful. Can anyone recommend a good uk supplied rubber.

Would this work?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liquid-Latex-Rubber-Special-Effects/dp/B00CHKAF8S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1448796465&sr=8-4&keywords=latex+rubber
>>
>>43887621
Iron Hands are all I have done so far, I've only been painting since May and straight black doesn't lend itself to shading/highlighting as well as other colors.

I have Ad-Mech on my plate next so I look forward to painting something that actually has color to develop technique.
>>
>>43870524
Was thinking about it for a while. The bare heads look amazing.
>>
>>43887678
Looking good but a slight quibble from a fluff standpoint, I don't think the Thousand Sons ever fought the Ultras, they kinda just buggered off to the Eye of Terror after getting their shit pushed in by the Wolves
>>
>>43887734

Look up the raven guard color scheme. I think the highlights they use are something akin to sea grey/mechanicum grey followed by administratum grey.
>>
>>43865732
Rollin
>>
>>43887678

>30k 1k sons contemptor
>standing on a box dreadnought piece
>filled with names of 40k campaigns
>>
>>43887817
They were there first!
>>
>>43887817
They had box dreads back then but yeah, the Thousad sons kinda hid in the eye of terror for the rest of the heresy so never really came into contact afterwards. But hey it's always fun to have them stomping things.
All the names on the dread are basically in the ultramar sector so they could have been heresy era minor conflicts, who knows.
>>
>>43887723
>Latex

You want Silicone m8. I like Maragon's RTV Silicone Rubber. You can get a free sample of plaster as well.

http://www.maragon.co.uk/crafts.html#Init
>>
>>43887267
You forgot that thing in the shoulderpad of the front guy, really ruins the coolness of the smooth shoulder pad. And don't listen to him, he is just angry because you just didn't say "OH MY GOD YOU ARE A GOLDEN DEMON GOD". He knows he is good, but he is not that good, if he wants to call names... Fuck him.
>>
>>43887714
Takes notes people.

Simple yet effective.
>>
>>43886847
No, he is right, and that's just another whole level
>>
>>43887930
Sweet. Thanks dude
>>
>>43887817
It's filled with the names of worlds. The same world can have more than one battle/campaign on it, you know.

Calth and Talassar are part of Ultramar, which surely saw some action during the Heresy. Don't see anything saying Badab, Ichar and Gehenna were colonized after the Heresy. Only iffy one is Adrantis. I can only find mention of Adrantis V in the context of the Macharian Crusade, but we don't know if Adrantis and Adrantis V are the same thing. Medusa and Medusa V are in different segmentums.
>>
File: image.jpg (293KB, 1287x1272px) Image search: [Google]
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Here's a Betrayal at Calth Dark Angel I finished up last night (minus the base).
>>
>>43888069
Looks pretty damn good.
>>
>>43887986
I posted the IH

>>43887118
>>43887300
>>43887377
>>43887459
>>43887734
Also posted by me

>>43887235
not me
>>
>>43888069
Looks great, love the Pre-Heresy era DA's. They were my second choice of legion to Death Guard. What's your recipe for the silver?
>>
>>43888120
Leadbelcher washed with Nuln Oil, then highlight with Ironbreaker.
>>
>>43887714
thats a nice blue
>>
>>43888059

The badab war is a blatant reference to the campaigns and books regarding Huron Blackheart and the astral claws
>>
File: 20151129_082938-1.jpg (2MB, 1929x2592px) Image search: [Google]
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Finally moving my ass on my last terminator.
>>
>>43868342

Those old school Minotaurs
>>
>>43888230
The piece just reads "Badab". There's no indication that the Badab war was the only action the sector/system saw.
>>
>>43888394

https://www.google.nl/search?q=the+badab+war&oq=the+badab+war&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3031j1j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8

That and it's a part of 40k's most iconic models
>>
>>43888419
Look, retard, I know what the Badab War is, ok. But anon was bitching about the castaferrum shoulder for 30k having names of 40k places on it. And I'm saying there's no evidence that Badab didn't see action during the Heresy. Thus it's not sticking out.
>>
File: 100_2324.jpg (2MB, 4288x3216px) Image search: [Google]
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So I finished priming my Reaper Bones Golem.
What colors should I go for?

>Being used for friend's DnD game.
>Next to Larry the Paint testing Space Marine.
>>
>>43888447

>This region of space was first explored during the Great Crusade by the Emperor of Mankind and his vast military forces. But it was not until the 38th and 39th Millennia that the Imperium slowly established several important Imperial outposts within the Maelstrom Zone. These outposts rose to prominence as flickering beacons of influence and strength within the region. The three vital star systems that formed the links in a distant chain that allowed the resources of the Maelstrom Zone to flow into the coffers of the more established sectors beyond were the star systems of Cygnax, Sagan and Badab.
>>
File: $_57.jpg (289KB, 802x912px) Image search: [Google]
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>ebay
>pro painted Eldar army
>well, that doesnt look bad, weird scheme bu-
>see his gardists

Holy fuck.
>>
File: eldar_are_coming_johnny.jpg (160KB, 569x816px) Image search: [Google]
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>>43888668
>well, that doesnt look bad, weird scheme bu-
>see his gardists

I think those are Dire Avengers, but ... maybe he *also* bought those off eBay *himself*, and never got around to repainting them?
>>
>>43888668
This sums up the problem with the aerograph generation.
>>
File: 20151129_172617.jpg (439KB, 1306x980px) Image search: [Google]
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First finished model for my Night Lords army, an Apothecary.
>>
>>43888522
go with rotten green scheme and purple detail, make him look like a frankenstein's moster
>>
>>43865732
Roll
>>
>>43889026
Looks nice, but the face/skull could use some more highlights.
>>
>>43865732
rolling for orks
>>
>>43889366
based luck, green orks with green and purple scheme
>>
>>43889026
I don't think I would trust a doctor with a skull-mask to fix me. His bedside manner is probably atrocious.

>>43888069
Holy shit look at the hand control on those edge highlights.
>>
>>43889393
Apothecaries for the Night Lords also oversaw torture of prisoners... He's probably more enthusiastic about doing that, than patching up his fellow marines.
>>
>>43889393
Thanks, anon. It was a pain.
>>
About to buy from Raging Heroes.

Which material is superior, Resin or White metal?
>>
>>43890189
Resin, more fragile to work with (and as such less suitable for gaming), but tends to give better detail.

Metal is almost as good at detail, but more suitable for gaming.

So do you want to collect them or actually use them as an army.
>>
>>43890221
Hmm.. Going to be used for gaming, so probably the metal? Is the detail diffrence glaring?
>>
>>43890293
It shouldn't be. The fine detail may be a little shallower (but not much), but if their caster chose it's channels well the flash should be minimal, as are mould lines.
It is more work to get rid of those on metal though (files and such are needed).

The moulds used for metal last longer than the soft rubber ones for resin. So there will be less variation between batches too.
>>
>>43887714
Either more weathering or none at all IMO, right now it looks like mistakes rather than wear'n'tear.
>>
>>43862506
shouldve waited to start that army
>>
>>43887118

unfinished, uninspired bases.
blotchey white
that flag
bad grey lineing, where it is actually bothered to be done.
painted faces, cant be assed to paint eyes.
sloppy transition from bionics to power armor, looks like you just slathered the silver over and used an ink and thought the extra 100 dollars you paid for those pieces would draw attention away from the bad.
that rhinos eagle on the door looks like you quit mid dry brush.
that eagle on that flag lol.
front and center marine shoulders werent even cleaned of mold connections.
giant marine pimple instead of proud service stud
sloppy freehand arrows.
no drilled barrells

shit son. talking about a wasted paint job. we have a 75 dollar model wasted vs probably 200 after FW parts are considered. unless those are cheap chinese knockoffs which would explain MUCH about the paint looking bad on them.

They ARE ripoffs right?
>>
>>43889026
needs something to let your opponent know its an apothecary, otherwise he might forget at an important time and get salty.
>>
>>43886758
>>43886749
>>43886736
>>43886714
resize your images and post them in a collage, jesus fuck. I would like to insult you for being a weeaboo but your basic technical incompetence takes priority.
>>
>>43890653
He has the glove and white shoulder pad. Should be enough.
>>
>>43887714
I know it's WIP right now so I hope I'm not telling you what you already know, but I'd hit the weathering a little harder on the feet and gun arms. Looks a little odd to have such large areas pristine. Another option is to do the weathering with your shade color for the blue rather than dark brown. If you do it right and highlight the bigger "chips," it can seem "fresher." I.E. battle damage that has happened during the current battle, not flaked paint with rust underneath. Food for thought.
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