/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

>>1086471
Un-stick it, remove it and compare it? You bought a new BB, you'll have to get the old one off eventually.

>>1086472
yes, naturally, thanks

i mean if there was a way of measuring it without having to unstick it with tools i dont have? like from the edges? or where the frame ends?

File: pie-de-metro-mecanico-0-200mm-0-8-.jpg (13KB, 600x211px) Image search: [Google]

13KB, 600x211px

>>1086474
Ah, sure. You could measure shell width (the 68mm measure marked on the box), but for the spindle length (the 113mm measure on the box) you'd have to remove the cranks.

>>1086471
> how can I tell if it will fit?
You need two measurements; the width of the frame's BB shell and the end-to-end length of the spindle of the BB itself. To get this second measurement, you will need to remove the crank arms.

>>1086486
alright, thanks my man
>>1086491
yea, thats what i was talking about, its stuck so ill probably have to take it to the lbs which will charge me as much as the bb cost

oh well, thanks

>>1086492
>yea, thats what i was talking about, its stuck so ill probably have to take it to the lbs which will charge me as much as the bb cost
Seeing as you will need no less than 4 tools to swap your own BB out, (Crank arm puller, BB lock ring tool, pin spanner, Shimano BB tool) it's actually more likely that having you LBS do the work will be more cost-effective.

The going rate here for a BB swap including crank arm removal/reinstall is $30-40.

You could google your crankset and search on VELOBASE.COM. It often displays the length BB you need. Use that to comepare with what you have..

What crankset is on it?

File: BK.jpg (154KB, 900x900px) Image search: [Google]

154KB, 900x900px

Do I need cycling shoes to be a good cyclist? Will buying cycling shoes help me go faster or farther? Pic related: my two sided pedals

>>1086519
More info. Right now I have enough money to buy either cycling shoes or upgrade my 28mm Cont UltraSports to 32mm Swalbe Marathons or Panaracer Paselas for gravel riding. Which is a more important purchase? I could also get a Selle Anatomica saddle

>>1086519
>>1086522
First off if your current saddle is unsatisfactory, then I'd definitely prioritise this.

Tyre wise I'd prioritise paselas or something similarly less hard than marathons. Marathons are durable but not terribly comfy. I'd also go bigger than 32 if you're able.

As for cycling shoes, I'd say being clipped in most useful when you're making big accelerations like sprinting or going up a hil. Also in the rain when you might slip off the pedal, clipless is excellent. So long as you get shoes that fit and your cleats set up corrently, I'd say it's a decent comfort improvement.

>>1086527
Thanks a lot. I may prioritize the saddle. I went on a 40 mile ride on gravel last weekend and my balls had some sort of delayed onset soreness. The reason I'd like to upgrade my tires is because I'm scared the cheap Conts will pinch or something on rougher gravel/tree roots/rocks.

>>1086499
But then he won't have the tools next time he needs them. Get the tools and do it yourself OP. Just make sure to put plenty of grease on the threads when you install the new BB, remember the right side cup is reverse-threaded, and get the new bb cups really fucking tight.
>>1086519
>>1086522
Clipless (cycling-specific) shoes really aren't necessary. I have them on some of my bikes but not all. I wouldn't worry about it yet for you.
Paselas are great tires, but the standard Paselas are extremely prone to punctures. There is a variant of the Paselas that have an anti-flat layer called ProTite (PT), formerly called TourGuard (TG). This version of the Pasela is an excellent tire. I used to have standard Paselas on one of my bikes, constant flats. After switching to PT, I pretty much only get flats if I hit a thorn (and a thorn will give you a flat on pretty much any tire). Paselas are very comfy/fast/nice tires. However they are more pavement oriented, so it depends when you say gravel riding if you mean you'll be doing mostly pavement with a little gravel, or doing only gravel. And also if you mean nice smooth crushed limestone or loose gravel.

>>1086529
>soreness
Getting cycling shorts and adjusting the saddle to the proper height, angle, and fore-aft position will likely do more for you than replacing the saddle. These are a good option for shorts if you don't want to spend a lot of money:
http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/mens-padded-pro-bike-short.html
>protip: They are meant to be worn alone, not with underwear.
As for tires, you are mostly at risk of pinch flats if you run your tires at a low pressure. It doesn't make much difference if the tires are cheap. If you're concerned about punctures then it is based on the tire's construction (though expensive isn't always more puncture-resistant than cheap) but pinch flats are almost always due to riding at too low of a pressure (or improper tire/tube installation).

>>1086531
Thanks a lot. I'll look into those tires for sure. I do about 65% of my riding on pavement but my longer 30mile plus rides are all light gravel but random holes and tree roots have me nervous.
>>1086532
Thanks a lot. I'll try to get the best fit possible on this saddle before I opt for something better. I'm just hoping my sore balls are from my bike and I don't have a small hernia or something worse

File: cyclocarbon_bike.jpg (202KB, 640x521px) Image search: [Google]

202KB, 640x521px

>>1086522
35mm Compass

My bicycle is fucked

Should I just get a car?

>>1086561
have you considered, fixing it?

>>1086561
My roof is leaking

Should I just live in a caravan?

Does anyone here have experience with bicycle indicators/blinkers?

Cagers don't pay attention to your hand signals. Thats a meme.

>>1086561
my benis dont work

should cut it?

i'm also getting BB-UN55 to replace the BB of this crankset:

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=39f79435-6a3f-406b-a985-58afeeae114e

the 118m should fit right? it's only 1mm longer than the original

Just ordered a CAAD12 Ultegra for 1800usd, how'd I do nerds?

>>1086635
Also, any recommendations for shoes and pedals? I have like bottom tier shoes that are 5 years old and have a bit of flex and can make my feet get tingly. Are 105 and Ultegra clips basically the same except for weight?

what the fuck do I get for a rear super gucci touring hub?
All my crypto mining has paid off and I already bought a lambo.
I was going to go for the phil. 10speed FSC, but now I can't seem to find it.

>>1086627
Your crank will fit, but your chainline might be fucked even if its just 1mm

>>1086543
not sure if 35mm will fit in my frame. I'll post pics later.

>>1086642
If your goal is to spend a lot of money, why not get a Chris King hub? But really, for touring use, there's not much to be gained from using an extra-fancy hub - Deore is fine, and $400 less expensive than CK.

>>1086637
The pedals are the least important part of a clipless system - unless you're actually unhappy with the float and feel of your current pedals, I would keep your current pedals and focus on finding a nice pair of shoes, the stiffness of soles is the most important determinant of comfort and power transfer efficiency.

>>1086594
>Cagers don't pay attention to your hand signals
U r doin it wrong (probably). I've ridden in all kinds of unfriendly traffic (fast and/or congested) and never had an issue getting respect for an outstretched arm pointing where I'm going to go.

>>1086522
I agree with >>1086543
especially, and want to second >>1086543
but would recommend Challenge Parigi-Roubaix tires (27mm) for gravel use if you can't go up to 35.

>>1086531
>But then he won't have the tools next time he needs them.
You're right, those will come in handy in... 15 years or so when that UN55 wears out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44YFXiwWk_Y
anyone have any idea what sort of dial indicator would be used to make this DIY spoke tensiometer? I'm thinking a regular dropdown one would work with the aid of a spring, but this one seems like it springs back on its own... any ideas?

>>1086662
I don't know if that's standard but it wouldn't be hard to reverse the spring in a regular dial indicator so it pulls in the other direction.

>>1086662
Pretty much any dial indicator could be used to make this: for most wheels the units of measure on a tensionmeter don't actually matter (because what you're actually using the tool for is to objectively determine which spokes have high/low tension relative to the rest of the wheel), and if you had a carbon-rim wheel where there was an actual maximum spoke tension to worry about staying below, you could make your DIY tool work for you just as well as a commercial one as long as you were willing do to some maths based on the dimensions/units of the tool you made.

File: 17-07-02_01-45-03.jpg (41KB, 503x838px) Image search: [Google]

41KB, 503x838px

>>1086664
I guess so, but I'm thinking the built-in spring is too weak to give out any accurate readings closer to 100kgf. Probably won't hurt to try, though.

>>1086669
I'm just a perfectionist!

>>1086673
You could also replace the spring with something stronger. They're nothing special, just a regular coil spring with looped ends.

>>1086649
the field serviceable nature of those phil woods is easy to rationalize.

>>1086649
I guess that makes sense, thanks!

>>1086644
hmm, i'll try it and keep that in mind. thank you.

>>1086680

>needing to field service a hub
>ever

No. Not a thing. Sorry.
Literally never going to happen.
Any event capable of damaging hub internals is going to kill the rider.

>>1086708
>extensive daily riding for many years will kill the rider
This sound more like a healthy lifestyle

>>1086710

Extensive daily riding for many years does not necessitate field repair of a hub. Ever. You can grind your bearings to dust and let your pawl pivots corrode and you'll still be able to ride home or to the nearest shop without stopping.

>>1086714
some of us would rather never go to a shop again

>>1086719

...

Good point.

>>1086710
>>1086719
>>1086714
Previous anon sorta got this already, but hubs will withstand many years of daily riding as long as they're properly maintained. Hub races don't get pitted unless you neglect them - in a loose bearing hub you can replace the grease and the bearings, in a cartridge bearing hub you can replace the cartridge bearings. Neither of these tasks is difficult, a home mechanic can do them easily with a minimal investment in tools.

>>1086721

Ehhh.
Most people, even most devoted cyclists, don't want to fuck around with an axle vice and a bearing press which they are going to use once or twice per decade.

Hubs lasting forever was something true about 20 years ago where Shimano, Chris king hubs and white industries we're th Amin hub makers.

But today you have hubs like formulas or joytechs which come rusty in the box while smeared with with China industrial solvent and paste. Unevenly and have a crunchy spin to them

Funny thing is with all the shit talking on here about Walmart bikes

You dudes are riding bikes with the very same parts and very same hubs as a shit Walmart bike

Those hubs won't last 5 months of daily riding.

I know because I had a state bicycle fixed gear with formula hubs and I tried to ride

What's a good decently priced bike for city riding? I haven't rode a bike since I was a kid.

>>1086583
ITS NOT FER ME. ITS FER ME MA.

>>1086742
get a hybrid

File: spot on.png (728KB, 1165x1075px) Image search: [Google]

728KB, 1165x1075px

I've got a bike sitting in the shed that I haven't rode in about 2 years. Bike itself is probably like 10 years old too.

What do I need to check before getting on it? I know i'll need to pump the tires but anything else? how do I know when I need a new bike?

>>1086724
Then don't be a fred who commutes on expensive sealed-bearing wheels. Loose bearings are easy to service.

>>1086805
Check for play in everything that moves, make sure the brakes work, and go through the gears.
The point is to just go through everything to make sure it all functions.

File: Kforcenewergowhitey-e1437579305984.jpg (56KB, 1100x731px) Image search: [Google]

56KB, 1100x731px

Is there any benefit for the ram type handlebar grips? I'm looking to switch my handlebars+brakes and thinking about switching to that

File: IMG_20170702_122448_crop_335x467.jpg (100KB, 335x467px) Image search: [Google]

100KB, 335x467px

Hard to get a good pic but hopefully this is good enough. This is the tightest clearance on my bike with 28mm tires. Can I move all the way to 35mm safely? I'm worried if it does fit it will clog with mud.

>>1086870
I would not go any wider - you should leave at least 3mm of clearance between the tires and stage, otherwise the wheel could get stuck in the frame if it got knocked out of true.

>>1086644
no it won't it's within production tolerances you dipshit

>>1086543
wow wide road tires look like shit

why go above a 23c for anything?

oh right because /n/ can't break 10mph on a downhill

i'll make sure to look out for autist NEETS who don't own cars and ride steel road bikes older than they are to their mcjobs

>>1086642

if you got the cash why not get a rohloff?

>>1086880
Both 25c and 28c have less rolling resistance and more comfort though. 25 is top tier.

>>1086888
Please don't feed obvious troll posts

>>1086880
kill yourself, sieg

>>1086896
sorry

http://www.gokucycles.co.uk/bikes/

What's everyones opinion on these?
Should I get a high tensile steel frame or aluminium? What are the pros and cons of both, I want to do some light trail riding aswell so which would suit me better?

>>1086906
bump

>>1086471
Has anyone here ordered from all4cycling.com before?

>>1086906

Those aren't bikes.

I just bought a bike.

Is it supposed to make my nuts and ass this sore and painful?

Last time I road a bike was 15 years ago and I swear it wasn't this painful.

>>1086931
Use the saddle you had before, or get the same model.
If it hurts your dick, change it quick

>>1086936
>If it hurts your dick, change it quick
hey nice rhyme

Are selfmade aerodynamic frontpanels worth a try?

>>1086943
go for it - post back your findings

>>1086931
Saddle could be too far back which is a very common mistake.

I want a lightweight roadbike. Low budget. Where should I start?

>>1086943

It's called a fairing.

Yes, lots of people make them themselves.

>>1086988
Sorry, english second language here.

>>1086992

You speak it very well.
I was just trying to be helpful. Most English speakers would be unlikely to know the word.

>>1086997
Thank you, but I only speak english at the basic level you learn at german schools.

I am in search of a 56 or 58 tooth chainring...but also im not looking to spend a ton of money, could anyone hit me up with a link? preferably a black one

File: help.png (590KB, 720x960px) Image search: [Google]

590KB, 720x960px

can someone please tell me what kind of bottom bracket this is or how i'd stick a chaining and some cranks on here?

>>1087044

looks like Shitmano Hollowtech II but it could be GXP. You need to read the side and google whatever you see there

you might need to replace it, choosing your cranks based on a mystery used bottom bracket is not the best move imho

for reference a new GXP is $25, Hollowtech like $15

>>1087049
there's no branding or anything, just a "do not disassemble" and a "bc 1.37x24 road" but neither of those lead me to anything specific

>>1087031
These guys make 57s
https://www.dutchbikebits.com/recumbent-velomobile-parts/alligt-chainrings
>>1086984
Craigslist or Pinkbike.com/buysell

>>1087054
those a good looking chainrings, but i found one that will work for me, thanks though

>>1086906
Hello, anon. Welcome to 4chan! You seem to be lost. There are multiple boards here, about a wide range of topics. This board, /n/, is for discussion of bicycles. I believe the board you're looking for is >>>/toy/. Have a great day and enjoy your stay!
>>1086888
Fuck off
>>1086902
>>1086880
For once Sieg is actually right.
>tfw own a car, ride steel bikes, ride carbon bikes, run 23s on my carbon road bike
I do run 1 1/8" (28mm) on my OTS but I use it for commuting, ride with loaded panniers, on gravel, etc. If I was using it just for road riding I'd put 23s on that too, at least if Paselas came in 23-630. I'd probably settle for 25-630 only cause 23-630 isn't really a thing as far as I know.
>>1086637
Try on shoes, get something that fits. I like Giro and Bontrager. For pedals go with Speedplay Zeros.
>>1086561
No

>>1086654
>never overhauling your bb
Protip: If you're not a retard, you'll be taking your bb out several times before it has to be replaced. Even if it's a sealed bb you'll be taking it out to clean out the shell and threads and regrease the threads.

>>1086537
Paselas will be fine on gravel as long as it's firmly packed and smooth (i.e. crushed limestone), though doing as much gravel as you do you'll probably want to go with something on the wider end (I'd go 32mm, will be good for pavement as well as good/firm gravel; still won't be good for really loose gravel, so hopefully when you say gravel you don't mean loose gravel).

>>1087052
>>1087049
>>1087044
anyways im gonna go to my bike shop to get my mechanic's input since im not super well versed in bottom brackets like this. in the meantime though i would be good to order the chainrings that i want, right? then just match up whatever crankarms to them later?

>>1087062
>in the meantime though i would be good to order the chainrings that i want, right? then just match up whatever crankarms to them later?
No, because different crankarms have different amount of bolt holes (4 or 5), different spacing (Bolt Circle Diameter), and while most are symmetric (same spacing between all bolt holes) a few are not. Plus crankarms often come with chainrings.

>>1087064
none of the crankarms that ive seen come with chainrings that i want, and also i know the BCD of both chainrings i'm buying so i can just buy a crankset/crank arms that match up to that number/'holes. i'm not getting fancy like an oval ring or anything so i think i would be good

>>1086642
I'm in a similar situation.
What is the latest meme touring hub?

>>1086887
If rohloff is the latest meme, I'm not buying a new frame for it.

I bought my first road bike just before Easter and got it assembled by the guys at the store, but I'm beginning to have some problems with my gears. It's fine for the most part until I try to shift onto my two smallest rings, which can take 10 seconds to shift properly. This happened suddenly when I was half way through a ride.

Any ideas on what the problem is?

>>1087086
Your cables are maladjusted. Those little things on the shifters and derailluer are adjusters. You'll need to spend about an hour with the bike on a frame (or upsidedown on a clean floor) twiddling the adjusters until it shifts smoothly. I recommend looking up some youtube videos on adjustment.

/n/, I made what may be a mistake: I blew a pair of years-old walmart gift cards on a cheap bicycle. How do I make the best of it? A few things of note are that it's a single speed with a coaster brake, and that it's not/partially assembled, as it was bought online. How do I not fuck this up? Thoughts on where things may go wrong?

>>1086927
>>1087058
Is there some sort of meme that you guys are in on? I don't understand.

I've currently got a Boardman team hybrid 2016 but I'm gonna sell it and get one of these single speed goku cycles in a plain colour, flat handlebars, metal spoked wheels, just seems like a good idea as my boardman's a bit flashy n people might try to steal it (londonistani). Single speeds are what velodrome riders use as well though right? Also they seem like less maintenance.

File: reid-cx-738.jpg (123KB, 1110x735px) Image search: [Google]

123KB, 1110x735px

I'm not sure whether to get https://www.reidcycles.com.au/reid-cx.html (pic related) or to go into some stores and get whatever they recommend for the same price. Maybe even a proper road bike. This will be my first proper bike.

What do you guys recommend?

>>1087102

I think they mean that those bike-like things you linked only resemble actual bikes.

The fuck is a point of an alloy aero frame, if you're gonna stick a 1x1 drivetrain on it, put the brakes in the wrong place (the hell do you need drop handlebars for if you have no hoods?), and paint it a pretentious pink or whatever?

I'm not saying you need to start with a $1000 bike, but you can get a good deal for $500-700, not that crap.

Unless you're looking for a hipster bike to ride in your hipster flip flops, skinny jeans and fedora (it's even got a racing saddle for maximum butthurt).

>>1087119
Depends how much you value money. You can get quality from a LBS but it'll cost twice as much- but you'll also get some mechanical help, and if it's a good store you might even get good help.

Personally though I recommend buying online, saving some money and just learning how your bike works and how to look after it, and not rely on shops.

If you've been mulling over a bike for a while you probably know enough, easily.

As for that specific bike- you're getting the lowest-end shimano stuff for that price. My personal feeling on this is you should not fall for the disk brake meme (they're good but they're not THAT good) and instead get a better groupset, at least a shimano Sora, or even a Tiagra.
Now, low end shimano stuff is still good, you'll not have trouble with it. When you're in that price range and it's got a full shimano set, you'll be getting a decent bike no matter what and you'll have a good time. But yeah, at that price you should ditch the rim brakes to get a better frame/groupset.

>>1087121
Ditch the DISK brakes, I mean. Rim brakes work just great.

>>1087119

really depends on where you are going to ride. If it's just tarmac/bike paths with the occasional bit of gravel, you can easily get away with a road bike and 28c tyres. If you plan on going on and off road, or just want the ability to hit the trail with no worries, a cyclo cross bike is a great idea.

As to the bike in your link - i'd be a little concerned about the gearing. regular cx bikes use something like 46-36 chainring with 11-28 cassette. That one has 46-34 chainring, and 13-26 cassette. You could at least go for a 2x10 with a 50-34 and 12-28.

>>1087121
>>1087123
Am I also falling for the CX bike meme? The only major differences I can see is the 46/34T crankset and thicker tyres/more clearance. I kinda just wanted the benefits incase I went camping or something.

Maybe I am better off just using one of the cheap mountain bikes I have already and getting a proper road bike.

I will look for some with better groupset. I'm not experienced so I don't know what's really available to me. I'm in Australia if that makes any kind of a difference.

>>1087124
Yeah when I googled it some people said they preferred that gearing but I don't have any experience either way. I will keep looking for other options

>>1087125
The only difference between CX and road bike nowadays is tires and gearing. CX is wider tires, gentler gearing.
Look at it like this; do you intend to spend more time on the road or the cross-country?
More road; road bike. More CX; cx.

Personally though I think you should just get a road bike with wide tires (25mm, 28mm?). These are pretty standard nowadays and it's the width here that makes them suitable for cross country. Seriously a 28mm road bike will handle off road now and then.

>>1087093
Check out the components; the chainring, cassette/freewheel, wheels, shifters, etc. Google the manufacturers. If it's chinese crap, expect them to not be very durable or long lasting.

File: R317-50.jpg (319KB, 2000x1207px) Image search: [Google]

319KB, 2000x1207px

>>1087126
Alright fair enough.

After a quick google search I found this for around the same price. Never heard of the brand though. I wonder how this compares

https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/2015-hasa-r3-sora-18-speed-road-bike/R317

>>1087128
Yeah that looks like a pretty fine bike. You'll notice it's lighter and has higher spec components (apart from the wheels. You'll also notice 23mm tires (which I do not recommend for offroading, but they won't explode if they touch grass, dirt or gravel). It's also an older model. So the price is low because it's older and it's on 23mm stock.

It's a good road bike as far as anyone can tell by the specs. Lifetime warranty on frame is nice, too, it means that the frame is decent too, or if not, you get a new one.

It's a thoroughbred roadie.

>>1087129
I'll seriously consider it then. I have a couple of old shitty mountain bikes I can use if I really want to go offroading anyway

This one also looks pretty cool

>>1087132
The URL says 2015 but the page says 2017. So it's not an older model. Doesn't matter (although the shimano sora got a refresh in 2017 so you might be getting the newer version)

>>1087126
>The only difference between CX and road bike nowadays is tires and gearing. CX is wider tires, gentler gearing.

depends. My merida is geared like a road bike (50-34; 12-28), though there's also the question of slightly different geometry (to accomodate the wider tires and a bit more stability offroad).

Disc brakes are also standard in cx bikes (although correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't UCI relax their restrictions or something, and we have at least one dude riding TDF with discs?), and different pedals (depending on what you actually mount to your bike).

>>1087133
Fair enough. Pretty much all of the other bikes I can find with Sora cost more so this one looks pretty good

>>1087133
>>1087135
Is there anyway to tell if I'd be able to fit 25mm or even wider tyres on it? If not then I don't really mind though

>>1087134
Disc brakes are great for wet conditions, but I don't see Australia as having many of those. Being standard on CX makes sense if the rims get muddy.

File: 3Zb3C1a.png (450KB, 803x1042px) Image search: [Google]

450KB, 803x1042px

I'm unsure which size frame to pick. I am 188cm tall but they don't have any recommendations relating to height

>>1087151
Which manufacturer is this?

>>1087153
I'm the guy above looking at this
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/2015-hasa-r3-sora-18-speed-road-bike/R317

>>1087151
>>1087153
>>1087154

https://www.reidcycles.com.au/falco-advanced-road-bike.html

Maybe this bike is better. Very similar price but this one has Tiagra groupset

>>1087154
I found this:
https://www.reidcycles.com.au/bicycle-size-guide
Which doesn't specify HASA, but it has a good amount of information. Frame sizing isn't massively important to get dead on since seat and stem can be adjusted. On the HASA I'd go for 58cm if you're 188cm tall. Or maybe the 56, it's a difficult call. Pros deliberately choose frames that are several sizes too small and I think you're kinda at what a 57 would be, so a 56 would be okay. It's a difficult choice but go 56 unless you have weirdly long arms. You have to make a judgement based on how long your arms and legs are with this. If they're normal, 56, if weirdly long, 58.

Anyway
>>1087158
There's some 105 stuff in there too. My recommendation is that they're both good and you should just get what you like the look of more. Yep, visuals. The more you like how it looks the more you'll enjoy it, and take care of it, etc.

>>1087102
>>1087120
What if I wanna train for velodrome racing?

I'm literally just using this bike to cycle around a park nearby my house on my weightlifting off days, tuesday and thursday, for a bit of cardio and sprinting my heart out and timing how quick I go around the park or whatever,

>>1087160
I feel like the only main thing that is improving when the price goes up is the groupset. Is it that important/big of a difference for someone who isn't very experienced? If not then I would prefer to get a cheaper bike (with the potential to upgrade the groupset later on?)

>>1087163
Just get something you think you'll enjoy riding. But keep in mind that groupsets are often much cheaper when bought with a bike than by themselves. If you fancy upgrading groupsets, check the prices. IE; get a better groupset since it's cheaper now than later.
The budget you have means you can't really go wrong. Just get one you like the look of.

>>1087139
also might be a clearance thing, for wider tires.

Sure - if he's down under, there's probably not much riding in wet conditions.

>>1087162
Bump

>>1087162
>>1087199
Don't fool yourself, fixiefag in denial. You won't be racing shit anytime.

>>1087206
I've got good sprinting genetics bro.

>>1087127
Will do, thanks pham.

File: 41f6y4LuaSL._SY400_.jpg (28KB, 500x375px) Image search: [Google]

28KB, 500x375px

Is a small frame bag like this stupid or worth it? When I go on a 40mile plus ride I like to take a lunch and my little saddle bad doesn't let me do that. Should i get this or the one that mounts on the other part of the frame under the seatpost? I have no mounts for pannier racks.

>>1087235
How a bout a bottle of Soylent?

I'm converting a Trek 950 into a cyclocross-style hybrid because why not. I'm keeping it as original as possible, so I need some 700c or maybe even 29ers with a 130 or 136mm 7 speed hub. Makes things a bit more difficult. The current rear wheel is a 130mm with a 5mm spacer.

File: 0082dc55e5b4d587496da325c129d624--the-smalls-shopping[1].jpg (31KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]

31KB, 600x450px

>>1087235

Do what you want but I would encourage to look at:

1. Bigger saddle bag - I guarantee that if you have the money and look hard enough you will find one that can handle all your equipment plus your lunch.
2. Get a fanny pack.

>>1087235
You can get strap-on pannier racks that will attach to a bare frame that can hold some weight (though not as much as actual mounts of course), you can get bigger saddlebags, or a frame bag.
I'd be careful with frame bags since you could get one and hit your knees against it constantly.

I need recommendations on a wheelset.

I'm converting a Trek 950 into a cyclocross-style hybrid because why not. I'm keeping it as original as possible, so I need some 700c or maybe even 29ers with a 130 or 136mm 7 speed hub. Makes things a bit more difficult. The current rear wheel is a 130mm with a 5mm spacer.

It'd be mostly for city riding, but with bad roads, some gravel, and a lot of grass.

>>1087239
Is something that large and expensive really that much better than a $20 frame bag? I could get a cheaper massive (10L) saddle bag off Amazon but those seem unstable

>>1087242
That's my main concern with them

>>1087086
sounds like cable stretch. new cables stretch a tiny bit after a few months of regular use, which throws off the shift indexing.
>>1087087
this guy is right but he doesn't explain it very well. the "little things on the shifters and der" are the barrel-shaped things where the cable fits into those parts.

if you got your assembly from a shop, it would be very strange if they didn't offer a a free adjustment after the break-in period. the times I bought new bikes, the shops explicitly mentioned that it would happen and that they service that for free.

>>1087271
Cable stretch is what it's called but it isn't actually the cable stretching, it's just the pieces of cable housing settling into place with use, causing a difference in tension.
But yes, it's actually expected that gears on new bikes need a bit of adjustment after a few weeks.

>>1087093
I mean, as long as you used gift cards, then you're not out any real money. I guess you could have bought a tv or something else from walmart, but you can just ride this bike into the ground and not be at a loss. too bad you couldn't apply them towards a real bike but w/e.

the wheels will be weak. they're made from cheap materials anyhow, but also the assembly was done by a machine and is just "good enough" to look straight before they're ridden. with your hand, gently squeeze pairs of spokes on the same side of the wheel toward each other and you'll probably feel that some are under more tension and tight and some are much looser. this means after you ride a while, the rim will bend away from the strong and towards the loose until it starts rubbing the brakes or in your case the frame since you have coaster.

if you find the spokes are not evenly tensioned, you might look into wheel truing tutorials but be forewarned it is a big learning curve and very process-oriented i.e. it takes a long time. getting a shop to do it might be worth it if they only charge $20-30 US per wheel.

for assembly, I'd say the most important thing I can think to recommend is making sure both sides of the wheel axles are fully touching the frame/fork metal that they fit into before tightening the bolts/quick-release lever (make sure the "wheels are fully seated into the drop-outs" in bike-speak.)

>>1087126
I disagree. Most CX bikes still have a significantly different geometry from race bike, such as higher bottom brackets.

>>1087245
How much tire clearance does it have? Need photos

>>1087049
it's not shimano

File: IMG_20170703_133504644.jpg (3MB, 4608x2592px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4608x2592px

>>1087287
1 11/32 in the front, 1 15/32" in the back, on 26x1.5 tires. Pics incoming, and I can take more.

File: IMG_20170703_133355783.jpg (3MB, 2592x4608px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x4608px

>>1087321
And yes, I know the bike needs a strip down and cleaning.

File: IMG_20170628_153322.jpg (3MB, 4160x3120px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4160x3120px

I've got a bad case of chain suck that I incurred while improperly shifting, where the chain is literally stuck beneath the crankset, and it's layered twice in there.

Am I going to have to take out the entire crankset to get it out? If not, how do I get it out? Pic related

>>1087323
WD-40 and force

File: chainsuck two.jpg (3MB, 4160x3120px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4160x3120px

>>1087326
can you elaborate on that statement? I tried using my fingers and moving the crankset, and then with some pliers and it didn't work.

here are some more pics because I feel like that could help

>>1087328
More force with a lever, if it rips you can still try to take the cranks off your ratmobile :^)

>>1087328
I suggest a lubricant like WD-40 and excessive amounts of force.
But if that won´t work remove the crankset.

>>1087188
Nah man i gotta go with a 130 BCD because that's the size they make 56 tooth chainrings for.

worst case scenario i find a crankset that fits my rings and then get a new BB. no worries senpai

>>1087044
that's an external GXP style BB. Depending on the crankset you buy you may need to use spacers to get the chainline right.

>>1087210
>>1087162

go post in the racing/training thread, and let them laugh at you as well.

>>1087058
TIL pros, pro mechanics, scientist and engineers are all wrong about which tires are best. Fucking wild man.

>>1087339
okay cool. GXP is SRAM, yeah?

>>1087348
It's also compatible with Shimano's Hollewtech II stuff as well as some others that use 24mm axles. In fact if that's not a Shimano branded BB it's a clone of one and will use a Shimano tool for removal, GXP tends to have slightly differently shaped cups (not sure if the tools are interchangeable).

>>1087352
okay, thanks for the info. I think i will stick to SRAM cranks but i'll keep the others in mind too

hey guys newfag here im thinking of turning an old 5 speed bike into a sleek single geared/ fixie bike but me being a complete noob dont know how to do it. help?
im thinking of getting this wheelset but im not sure partly cause idk if 700c means 26 in or 29 and mainly cause idk if itll work for being a fixie
http:// www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=235_242&products_id=3782
what do you guys think and any info to convert the bike into a single/fixed gear?

>>1087366
just take the derailleurs off and stick a front brake on there, voila! single speed

>>1087366
>idk if 700c means 26 in or 29
It's neither. Well, it's the same diameter as 29, but 29 wheels are wider to acommodate fatter tires, for MTBing. Also those are road wheels, with a hub for multi-speed cassettes.

Here's a good read
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html

>>1087380
would it be possible to use spacers? im mainly interested in getting a good wheel set thats affordable (and sylish) but i dont want to make a blind purchase for it to not work on what used to be a 5 speed frame

>>1087321
>>1087322
anyone?

>>1087321
Wait, so you're currently running 26" wheels on it and want to buy a 700c wheelset? What brakes are you using?

>>1087387
>>1087321
Never mind, just noticed the cantis, I'm retarded
Are you sure they'll reach a 700c rim? Or do you plan to change the brakes also?

>>1087388
They won't, and they're getting replaced. I've got everything except the wheels picked out already. The wheels/brakes are the last thing I'm going to work on for this build, but I've never bought anything larger than 26s for a mtb.

>>1087388
>>1087389
though honestly I haven't bought them yet and I'm open to suggestions. Don't need cants for the new build.

For the rest of it, I've got some salsa bars, microshits, and a quill adapter for up top, a nice step saddle, and the frame already has a higher rack position. I'm really convinced Trek intended for riders to have a wheel size option on these frames.

>>1087389
>>1087392
fuck, one last thing. I keep on forgetting to pick out a cable hanger. fork vs headset?

I have a hard tail with no front fork locker, any way i can shift my weight or something to stop the fork from dipping when i try to pedal standing up on a hill?

>>1087418
Or would the extra effort i have to use be better at building muscle?

>>1087418

Twist backwards on your grips in time with your downstrokes.

>>1087278
Great post, thank you anon.

>too bad you couldn't apply them towards a real bike
Yeah, that's something of a shame. Walmart has a pretty tight grip on its monopoly money, and GCs can't be used to buy prepaid cards due to money laundering concerns, iirc.

If I'm reading about the spokes correctly, are you saying one can preemptively adjust the tension of the spokes, before they begin to noticeably transition from tortilla to taco shell? Or should one react to issues as they come, and true the wheel as necessary?

File: !1454299333888 (1).jpg (2MB, 2317x3085px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2317x3085px

>>1087278
>getting a shop to do it might be worth it

In thirty years of riding, I have literally never found a shop capable of truing and tensioning a wheel properly.

The problem is that it is cost-prohibitive from a labor standpoint. Shops that survive tend to thrive on summer hires doing idiot-proof "tune-ups". Nobody smart enough and dedicated enough to properly true & tension a wheel will ever end up as a shop mechanic.

The result is that even the best shops will bill you a shop-hour and hand you back whatever the result of that shop hour was, trued or not.

>>1087423
ty

>>1087428
>The result is that even the best shops will bill you a shop-hour and hand you back whatever the result of that shop hour was, trued or not.

What do you recommend? I've heard of local wheel-builder guys who make a living doing it...

I ordered a custom-made touring wheelset from Universal Cycles in 2009 that is fantastic and still true (not that I toured on them).

Is there a company you can trust with this? I've gotten rid of several wheelsets because shops CANT TRUE and even after reading The Bicycle Wheel I CANT EITEHR

>>1087433

I wish I had a recommendation for you.
I Got Adequate.
I'll true your wheels for the very reasonable price of whatever it would cost to upgrade my wheels to a better set.

File: HTB1gm6xJVXXXXcqXXXXq6xXFXXXH.jpg (179KB, 700x700px) Image search: [Google]

179KB, 700x700px

non-clipless, small-ish profile pedal for a road commuter bike

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KACTUS-16C-Bike-MTB-Mountain-Magnesium-Alloy-Pedals-BMX-Bike-Flat-Platform-CNC-Steel-3-Bearings/32667841751.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10068_10084_10083_10080_10304_10082_10081_10301_10177_10110_10136_10137_519_10111_10060_10112_10155_10113_10114_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10182_10059_303_100031_10099_10078_10079_10103_10073_10102_10189_10052_10053_10142_10107_142_10050_10051,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=7c9fc62f-8f33-44e1-8aac-7b0a65b05193&algo_expid=07015068-a3be-43f9-9086-a0092675ca80-0&algo_pvid=07015068-a3be-43f9-9086-a0092675ca80
anything better than this for around 20 dollaridoos?

File: token-tk456-med.jpg (23KB, 430x430px) Image search: [Google]

23KB, 430x430px

>>1087452
I got some toe clip pedals for mine for around 20 off ebay, the brand is welgo and they look like this
they work really well, i dont like needing specific shoes to cycle, esp. when I use my bike for getting places as well as general riding

So I decided to move my seat up about two inchs and riding was alot easier. But my penis started going numb, then when i stop for a second and started riding again it felt like i was about to ejaculate. The rest of my ride went great after that.

This happen to anyone else?

>>1087428
>Nobody smart enough and dedicated enough to properly true & tension a wheel will ever end up as a shop mechanic.

Truing wheels isn't even THAT hard, what kind of shite mechanics are you living around?

File: m17.jpg (239KB, 950x633px) Image search: [Google]

239KB, 950x633px

Is there any reason get a multi-tool other than than the crankbrothers?

>>1087632
I think I know what you're talking about but usually for me it's like blood rushing back or like I'm about to pee. Wish it felt like an ejaculation.

File: IMG_20170704_150800.jpg (217KB, 679x905px) Image search: [Google]

217KB, 679x905px

I had a flat and my tube looked like this where the puncture was

its out of focus but its like bulged inward

>>1087638
I can't comment on any other multitools but I will say that the Crankbrothers ones are really good. I had an M19 and that thing took a right beating but too many hammer blows bent the pivots so I went and bought another one (I think they have a lifetime warranty but I found the first one). Even with all that hammering I never managed to round off any of the tools but I now have a full set of spares.

Downsides would be the pivots don't stay tight so you'll probably want to put some thread lock on those and the newer M19 only comes with a large flat screwdriver and replaces the smaller one with a useless T10 torx (swapped them over from my old one).

File: 20170704_162014.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

I bent my saddle rails how do I fix this? Please help this is my favourite saddle.

What are the characteristics of an over inflated tire going flat? I was just 10 min into my ride and got a pretty slow flat (maybe a minute to completely inflate) and I had the pressure in that tire just above what it recommends.

>>1087657
deflate*

>>1087638
topeak are also ok

I rack up a saddle sore every weekend after 5 days of riding, I wonder if I should upgrade my bib shorts, saddle or start using chamois creme

>>1087675

Yes.

>>1087675
I just upgraded my bibs from some cheap pos and honestly, it made a world of difference. No pain compared to the old ones so that's my suggestion unless you have really nice bibs. Maybe look into split rail saddles? I've heard good things about them.

So can anyone explain to me why bikes don't just use variable speed pulleys instead of a rats nest of sprockets and chain?

>>1087704
Efficiency ("power loss")

>>1087705
belt drive is plenty efficient

>>1087704
It would be wayyy too heavy and wayyyyyy to hard to shift for it to be practical

>>1087707
How would it be heavy? You could apply the same principles as anything else to manufacturing it.

Also considering variable speed machine tools are run by variable speed pulleys I'd say that they wouldn't be hard to shift at all.

>>1087704
>>1087705
Also weight and range. There exists CVT hubs (Nuvinci) and they're heavy, inefficient, and have less range than IGHs in the same weight class.

>>1087707
As above, it exists. It's been a while since I tried one but I don't think it was very hard to shift, although it uses large ball bearings instead of a belt and pulley.

>>1087708
Your mention of machine tools makes me think you may actually be talking about moving a belt between pulleys and not a CVT, is that right? If so that's even worse.

>>1087657
Can some help?

>>1087709
No I'm talking about a variable speed pulley. Which are used in some machine tools.

>>1087709
>>1087711
Also this nuvinci shit is not even close to what I was talking about

>>1087711
>>1087712
So you're talking about a CVT. That's what the Nuvinci is, it's a different implementation but it's probably actually more suited to bicycles compared to what you might see on a moped.

>>1087714
"CVT" covers a pretty broad range dude, we're not talking about this nuvinci horseshit just like we aren't talking about a variable displacement hydrostatic drive. I'm talking about a dead simple variable speed pulley.

>>1087715
Fair enough, but as I said it would probably be worse than the Nuvinci which is bad enough already. You asked why it isn't used and you've been given your answers.

>>1087716
You don't even know what I'm talking about apparently so forgive me if I have a hard time taking your answer seriously

>>1087717
I know exactly what you're talking about, a belt driven CVT. They're used on mopeds.

File: G0002MER.jpg (49KB, 888x840px) Image search: [Google]

49KB, 888x840px

I have a crazy problem, get this, I have a skip in my chain system every 2 revolutions. It feels like a kink in the chain, and all signs point to such. I took the chain off a few hours ago and fully cleaned, lubed, inspected for kinks, and checked with chain wear tool.
everything checked out, I also regreased derailluer, re tightened down the crank rings with locktite, and checked my spd for excessive play.

I have no idea why I feel a slight skip in my pedal stroke every two revolutions, If it was every revolution, it might be a crank or pedal bearing...all signs lead to chain, yet the chain is in perfect condition, it has less than 1K miles and is within specs....could it be that the chain is fucked and it is un noticeable...Please help

I spent an hour today, tearing drive-train apart and re installing, and still felt the skip.

It is felt at 16+ mph, under light load it is not their

>>1087721
Swap the chain out and see if it goes away before ruling out everything else.

>>1087723
I think i might have to. I am a cheap sob, and hate buying new stuff when stuff still has life in it..

File: man_riding_bike_flag_crop[1].jpg (341KB, 850x831px) Image search: [Google]

341KB, 850x831px

anyone know where to get these online for less than $10? they're a necessity where I am because I'm in the burbs, aliexpress doesn't have them in stock. am canadafag btw

>>1087721

Your cogs are definitely fucked, and possibly your chainring as well.

Replace your chain and cassette immediately. Inspect your chainring and make a decision - if you are waffling, you are wrong and it needs to be replaced.

What does a blow out look like?

>>1087728
>Your cogs are definitely fucked, and possibly your chainring as well
The cogs are new, less than 800 miles.
Chainring has about 6K miles on it.

what is waffling?

>>1087731
>The cogs are new, less than 800 miles.
>Chainring has about 6K miles on it.

Hmmm.
Inspect for a bent derailleur hangar or a loose B-set screw, maybe.

Also check your pedal spindles and bottom bracket. Something is clearly off.

>>1087732
is waffling a term for the condition I have?

>>1087745

Waffling is a term for being indecisive and erring on the side of caution or frugality when common sense indicates the need for action.

Are downtube shifters supposed to loosen themselves over time? I suppose so since they all come with some sort of lever to finger-tighten them, but it gets pretty annoying. Or are just my DT shifters too shitty? What are some non-shitty, non-crazy expensive DT shifters?

>>1087752

I've never had that happen but I only rode with them for a year. A bike co-op or used bike shop will probably have a box of them sitting around. eBay prices for them are insane imho. They should be around $15 IRL imho

My only suggestion is getting bar end shifters. Probably $70 for Shimano if you find a good deal. If go for the 10 speed model and run them friction shift. Move them to a more modern bike in the future. They should last for a very long time and are worth having around for a bike nerd

>>1087727

Amazon has them for $15 USD

I got a beater bike to tool around town that only came with a coaster brake with the Shimano Nexus hub. I installed a front dual pivot caliper brake but I find it to be...Strangely ineffective and has a pretty long stopping distance. I have to squeeze the lever pretty hard and use the coaster to really stop. Is there anything I could've done wrong during installation?

Only thing to note is that one brake pad is not perfectly flush with the rim and Has a bit more toe in that I haven't been able to adjust.

File: 1487773481634.jpg (37KB, 1400x800px) Image search: [Google]

37KB, 1400x800px

Is there difference in recommended ETT between road and MTB? Say, I have road bike with ETT 540 mm, should I buy MTB with the same ETT or what?

>>1087812
What is he rim surface like?
>>1087824
I would say modern mtb should have longer top tube. They are designed to handle well with a short stem and even with the same stem road bars would have more reach to them.

>>1087812
Do the usual checklist; clean the rims and the brake pads, check them for debris, and check the texture of the pads. If the pads are smooth, then you should get some rough sandpaper and rough them up. Or replace them.
And also check the tension on the cables, when you pull the levers, are the pads actually reaching the rims?

I just dented my wheel that it isn't round anymore. Is this safe to ride?

>>1087919
It's also not seating properly...what could have caused this?

>>1086471
First time on /n/ and this is going to be my first bike. I'm planning on buying a hybrid bike and have shortlisted two bikes, Scott Sub Cross 30 and Scott Metrix 10 (after lot of confusion). Are these bikes good? Are there some bikes in the same price range that you guys think would be better? Please help.

File: screenshot (003).jpg (143KB, 1665x937px) Image search: [Google]

143KB, 1665x937px

>>1087929
Here's a pic comparing their specs. Price is around $700 which is my max budget. Any advice would be really helpful. Thanks.

>>1087871
Rim surface appears to be clean, but I'll do a once over with degreaser. The front wheel appears to be true but since this is my first bike I have no frame of reference of what's considered not true. What grit sandpaper? Tension of the cable and lever is pretty good. The housing and inner cable seem pretty long though, will that be a problem?

The right pad is refusing to be completely flush with the wheel. It will only do do when it is slightly loosened, as soon as I tighten down so it doesn't move, it goes back to the same position of having a few millimeters of space when the lever is fully engaged

does ANYBODY make a compact crankset with a 130 bcd and 175mm crank arms that fits shimano/24mm spindle bottom brackets

File: 1499289508297-2059005146.jpg (1MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x1836px

About to see if this will fix the skip in drive train

File: 56228841-s_720x600.jpg (85KB, 720x566px) Image search: [Google]

85KB, 720x566px

sorry, don't know much about bikes and got a question

I recently got a mtb (10 years since I last rode any bike)
Is it normal, that the front disc brake won't completely block the front wheel, when I pull it as hard as possible? I know you are not supposed to do that anyway and it still brakes good enough I think.
I was just wondering, since I can break hard enough to stop my rear wheel while riding.
Is that "by design" to prevent you from sliding away with your front wheel, or should I get that looked at by a mechanic?

Really appreciate an answer from someone who knows something about this.

>>1087995
There is no such thing as a 130BCD compact crank.

>>1087999
130 bcd and space for 2 chainrings?

>>1087995
>>1088001
This may sound dumb but couldn't you use a triple (105 5703 for example) and just put the big ring in the middle ring position?

>>1087997
It could just be that they're shit, what do you have? Any half decent disc should be able to lock the front wheel unless you're really heavy and have a tiny rotor (in which case you could try a larger rotor, cheaper than new brakes).

If it's neither your weight nor the rotor size that's the issue then it's likely pad and rotor contamination, give the disc a good clean with soapy water or brake cleaner, if it's glazed then you'll want to use some sandpaper on it. For the pads you'll ideally want new ones but you may be able to salvage the old ones by sanding the surface and giving them a good clean and you can even put them in a flame to burn of any oils.

To avoid glazing in the future you want to bed the pads in correctly, get up to a decent speed and pull the brake hard but without stopping and repeat that maybe 5 times.

>>1088002
i dont think the spacing would be right, and im not sure if the bolts like up right. I'm putting together a road bike and want to run a 56/42 chainring combo up front.

but the issue here is that 56 tooth rings only come in 130 BCD and up because of flex issues

i have an ultegra BB with a 24mm spindle diameter so im just trying to find a *really specific* item, i guess.

probably going to have to ditch this bb and buy a new one to match the crank that fits my rings

>>1088008
Why not just get a 130BCD 42t and run that in the middle ring position (or inside if you use a double crankset) and then the 56t on the outside?

I'm not understanding what issue you're having or why you think you need a compact. At first I thought you wanted to try something like 56/36.

>>1088012
Wouldn't that mess with the chainline, since the space where the smallest chainring would be would be empty and shift the other 2 out, relative to where they'd be on a compact?

>>1088013
Not if you use a double crankset. I'm not sure how far shifted over triples are but I don't think it's a full chainring spacing so it might not be too bad.

>>1087723
Yup, the chain. When clipped in, you can feel every bug you roll over. The chain had a kink, so small it was non detectable by examination. I found the kink by rolling the chain on a chainkeeper and watching for run out. It was 1mm and barely seen.

Performance bike just earned 30$...thanks Obama

>>1088017
i'll consider it if i absolutely cant find what im looking for for a reasonable price. Worst case scenario i buy a crankset that fits my rings and then swap the BB out

i know SRAM makes what im looking for but i've only found one offering thats within my budget and it's on fucking ebay so idont know if ill win the auction for it

>>1088022
So do you already have a 42t in a smaller BCD? Just get one in 130 and be done with it, that opens up your option of cranksets.

>>1088006
https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=223
these unless I am mistaken.

~72kg / 160lbs, so not really heavy

disc came a little bit warped and chafing on certain spots.
Possible that I might have messed up, when trying to bend it straight again...
It's still not 100% straight, I can still see it moving to one side, but it's centered enough now, that it won't hit the pads when spinning. (only periodically rubbing on very slight brake pull)

can I apply cleaner to both the rotor and the pads, or just the rotor?

>>1088023
i have both a 56 and a 42 in a 130 BCD

>>1088024
Those are certainly low end brakes so a lack of power could be an issue. One thing you can do is compare the power of the front to the rear, squeeze the lever hard with one hand and try and roll the wheel with the other. You'll probably be able to make the disc slip on both wheels but if the front is noticeably easier to move then it shows that there's an issue.

>can I apply cleaner to both the rotor and the pads, or just the rotor?
Supposedly it won't harm the pads but it will soak in so you'll have to wait longer for it to evaporate. I've never used brake cleaner myself.

When you straightened the rotor did you use your hands? It might not seem like it but even the oil on your skin can affect disc brakes. An adjustable wrench makes a good rotor truing tool, keeps it clean and is more precise and easier.

>>1088027
So then get a 130 BCD double, no need for a compact. You do know what a compact is right? It's a double with two different BCDs so you can have a greater difference between the two chainrings.

>>1088029
>When you straightened the rotor did you use your hands?
yeah, I did.
Had some success with learning to fix/adjust certain things on the bike from youtube videos, but that apparently wasn't the best tip.

Thanks for the help.

>>1088030
okay then point me to a 130 BCD crankset that:

-Fits a 24mm spindle diameter BB
-has 175 mm crank arms
-isn't $100+

because so far im finding jack shit

>>1088032
Well you didn't mention a budget before, that limits things quite a bit. 105 5700 is just over $100 converting from my currency, you may be able to find it a bit cheaper on some American sites. You could also have a look on Ebay, there's not much to go wrong with a crankset so going second hand is a good idea if you don't mind some scratches and foot rub.

>>1087929
>>1087933
Scott Metrix 10, better components and having a rigid fork is a plus

File: 71wyoBhDm+L._SL1000_.jpg (129KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]

129KB, 1000x1000px

i just want cool looking platform pedals for my road commuter. these look cheap do u think there is a risk of them breaking? also rec me some interesting lookin pedals pls thx

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G8O4NRW
https://www.amazon.com/RIDING-Bicycle-Cycling-Bearing-Platform/dp/B01N13U1B1

File: 71hdVoYjkFL._SL1500_.jpg (186KB, 1500x1500px) Image search: [Google]

186KB, 1500x1500px

>>1088062
2nd pic

>>1088032
Good luck finding any non-BSO-tier crankset for <100 bucks, dillweed

File: Screen Shot 2017-07-05 at 7.06.41 PM.png (412KB, 457x516px) Image search: [Google]

412KB, 457x516px

>>1088062

I love my cheap pinned dimension pedals.

But if you want someone more classic / heavy duty triple trap pedals are cool af. If you are going to be riding in the rain stick to pinned

>>1088093
i've found perfectly good cranksets for other bikes in the price range im hoping to find

>>1088116
just buy used.

I rode a bike for the first time in years last Saturday and my ass still hurts. I want to ride again today but I hope my ass doesn't give in

>>1087981
Yeah if one pad isn't being squished against the rim when you pull the levers, something is wrong. check out some Rj the bike guy videos on brakes. Or some other videos on how to properly install brakes.

>>1088157
3 months ago I did the same thing you are doing now. Let your ass heal before riding again. Then ride until it hurts.
Then let it heal.
After a while of repeating this the time it takes to start hurting will be so high you'll never get to it and you'll realise that your saddle actually is quite comfortable.

Expect this process to take about 3 weeks.

I remember when I did this my ass really hated me but now I can barely believe that my ass was so weak.

How do I find the motivation to ride alone? I always want a partner or someone to ride with otherwise I can't be bothered

>>1088166
Don't? You clearly don't like cycling.

>>1088166
I like having a place to go, a destination. Sometimes just a place with pleasant vibes, but usually an errand.

I really enjoy bikes, the feeling of freedom and flight, making my body breathe a little. It sometimes takes me to a miserable place due to immune disorder though. I think it can take all of us to a miserable place in different ways, maybe by crash, maybe isolation, cold and hunger, etc. I find it helpful to accept that I may feel miserable before I leave, and that it is a natural part of biking for me. When pain comes and home seems impossibly far, I can stay in my body that way, stay calm. I still am breathing, the pain is strong but it's just pain, I will feel well again, and I'm still magically flying along the road.

>>1087997
You're trying to lock up your front wheel... on purpose?
Do you enjoy skinned knees?

Looking for a disc wheelset under $300 CAD
or should i pay someone to build a wheel for me.

My stock wheels are complete shit made of lead.

>>1088193
road, cx, mtb?
if mtb - 26", 27,5", 29"? discipline?

>>1088192
I just thought, that the front brake should be strong enough to be able to do it "in theory" at least, when I tested it.
Since it couldn't I assumed, that there is something off with it.

File: 1396543033585.jpg (48KB, 504x390px) Image search: [Google]

48KB, 504x390px

so I could get a fsa k force stem for real cheap off of a new bike but the colour sucks.

could I buy the new stem from a new bike , order the other colour online somewhere and just say they sent me the wrong one ?

any experiences with something like this ?

>>1088263
Chances are the cheap stem will have signs of being mounted and any packaging the new stem has will probably have the colour marked on it.

>>1088138
yeah thats what im trying to do but im not having much luck. Everyone thinks their years old crankset is still worth full retail price. been shopping around on ebay/craigslist but please link me somewhere else if im not looking in the right places

Give me a quick rundown on what styles of bottom brackets are good and which ones should be overlooked

pulled an old ultegra bb out of a used frame i bought and don't know how to tell if it's worth replacing or if i should keep it

also if i replace it, what should i replace it with, even?

>>1088569
>Give me a quick rundown on what styles of bottom brackets are good and which ones should be overlooked
>pulled an old ultegra bb out of a used frame i bought and don't know how to tell if it's worth replacing or if i should keep it
>also if i replace it, what should i replace it with, even?

There are advantages and disadvantages for all of them.

Square taper gives you control over the Q-factor of your cranks. You can buy them in different widths to get specific chain-lines. But this is also annoying if you have to buy 4 to get it just right. Shitmano cartridge BBs are awesome and cheap. There are "loose ball" bottom brackets that are extremely simple and keep, but you gotta pull off the cranks and re-grease them regularly. Mostly for retro-grouches, extremely frugal nerds, and 3rd world bike touring

Modern cranks do it differently, they have sealed bearings like teh shitmano cartridges, but come in two pieces that you screw on to each side of the da BB holez. There are fucking 100 different flavors and half of them suck dick. Go for GXP or BB30. Do not mix different crank brands without googling it. I don't know if any different combos work.

Inside teh above modern category is the "press fit" shit which doesn't use threaded bottom brackets and ppl seem to hate so I have never tried.

The worst situation you'll experience with a shit bottom bracket is clicking and creaking sounds from sand or bad installations. I would not spend big money on ANY type of the thready ones unless you a racer

That's all I know. I might be wrong about some stuff. I have only used the GXP and the two square-taper types I mentioned.

I rec shimano un55 over un54 because 54 comes with a plastic cup on one side which is fine but also lame

>>1088263
>so I could get a fsa k force stem for real cheap off of a new bike but the colour sucks.
>could I buy the new stem from a new bike , order the other colour online somewhere and just say they sent me the wrong one ?
>any experiences with something like this ?

get an uno stem on ebay and stop worrying. UNO stems and higher-end uno seatposts for every bike ever

>>1088193
Cheapest option would be: ebay each part, keep it under $200 !!! get the spoke lengths correct !!! then have a GOOD DUDE who REALLY KNOWS how to build the wheels do it for $100.

>>1088166
>How do I find the motivation to ride alone? I always want a partner or someone to ride with otherwise I can't be bothered

I don't understand why you'd want to ride with a person. Biking is for solitude, suffering, adventure. I'd say find a really long bike path and blaze up before you start the ride ^_^

>>1088157
>I rode a bike for the first time in years last Saturday and my ass still hurts. I want to ride again today but I hope my ass doesn't give in

Post the bike. Post the bike with you sitting on it. Post the saddle. Probably a fit issue. It shouldn't hurt

>>1088571
okay cool, i think i am going to go with SRAM/GXP then because they offer the right measurements for the rest of the bits that i need, thank you

just bought a new sinewave revolution and a son 28 dynamo hub.
got everything wired and set up but the hub is really stiff and clicks once every turn, my lbs said it would disappear when plugging in a light but they were unsure with the usb charger. You guys think I need to get a light to get this to work?

INSOLES FOR BIKE SHOES:

Who makes some good ones?

How do I get the BB off of my vintage bike? It's an 82? Soma Generation that from what I understand is a rebranded Nishiki. Looking at it from the non-drive side, do I take the lockring on the outside off first or the thing with pinholes in the center? Does it come off counter clockwise? I tried counter clockwise on the lockring, but didn't get anywhere with it, I don't know if it's just on really tight or if I'm turning it the wrong way.

>>1088671
Lockring first, then cup (the thing with pinholes). Both should loosen clockwise

File: DSC_0097.jpg (1MB, 3264x1836px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x1836px

>>1088580
Not good man not good. You shouldn't need anything plugged into it. Mine vibrates the bike when you spin it, definitely kind of notchy increments, but minor, no clicking and it will spin for ~45 seconds with nothing drawing on it.

File: p5pb14525010.jpg (355KB, 1024x683px) Image search: [Google]

355KB, 1024x683px

any experiences with this online retailer? http://www.xxvii.com/int/

>inb4 chink
don't care, they have amazing prices, specially on downhill bikes, should I try ordering some small parts to see if they are reliable? maybe use some for of paypal insurance?

>>1088580

>dynamo hub

No.

I have been experiencing cyclists/handlebar palsy.

How should I be holding on to the hoods? What part of my hand should be making the most contact?

>>1088706
>broken link

REEEEE

http://www.xxvii.com/int/bikes/mtb/downhill

File: 1499490368222.jpg (85KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

85KB, 1280x720px

>>1088741
>>1088706
wait a second, those are dollars, not pesos

nevermind, I am an idiot

>>1088726
Loosen your grip. Don't deathgrip the handles.

>>1088744
Those prices can't possibly be in dollars, they're like 5 times what they should be.

>>1088741
>>1088744
>>1088827
>there is only one dollar
>it is us dollar
HK dollars, retards.

>>1088831
This is an American site with mostly American users and when we say dollars it means American dollars (I'm not even American). Notice how American dollars is always just $ and it's Canadian, Australian, and Hong Kongian dollars that have the clarification (AU$, CAN$, HK$). So no the prices aren't in dollars, they're in HK$'s.

>>1088833
>back pedaling
Dollar means dollar. When discussing prices on a chink site it is obviously not obvious to some autismal retards that $ =/= USD.

>>1088842
You'd have a point if all the text was in Chinese but the website is mostly in English.

Is it a disaster to squeeze 135mm rear dropouts to a 130mm hub if it's a big, old steel frame. Talking 1989, 22" frame. It looks okay to me, like it's closing symmetrically, but I haven't put the der back on yet.

>>1088848
>You'd have a point if hurr-durr
>every website in engrish must price in usd
No, seeing as I'm obviously factually correct my point is already proven. All you're doing is (poorly) trying to save face and grasping at straws like a complete retard.
>>1088850
Works.

File: works.jpg (2MB, 4069x1765px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4069x1765px

>>1088857
has a lot of thread sticking out, but that seems preferable to no support on the dropout if I put a spacer in.

(i know it's dirty, i'm making sure all the parts fit before I commit to a full wipe down.)

>>1088857
>every website in engrish must price in usd
That's not what I was implying at all. What I am saying is if a site is aimed as Chinese customers and is using KH$ then it should be in Chinese. Most Americans can speak English and they all use $, not all Chinese can speak English, it's a fair assumption to make.

Just gave in and got my first set of padded cycling shorts after years of just using jeans and not caring. They're only a pair of cheapo b'twin ones, but is there anything to expect from these things?

>>1088861
Respace the frame, senpai.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdibmxBuMy0

>>1088861
When you close the lever and tighten the QR, it will take up that space and thus place more of the axle into the dropout.

>>1088862
>if a site is aimed as Chinese customers and is using KH$ then it should be in Chinese
Well, first of all, why would it be aimed at the Chinese market? Why shouldn't a site offer goods and services in their native currency even if selling abroad? And what in the fuck is Chinese anyway? You are aware that they sell all over SE Asia, to countries that don't speak """Chinese""" (even if there were such a language), and more-over - the world? There's a drop-down menu at the top where you can select various local dollars and the prices adjust accordingly.
Five seconds of looking at the page would give a person of average intelligence this insight. And here you are, still arguing a point you do not have.

>>1088866
>Well, first of all, why would it be aimed at the Chinese market?
Because they're fucking using Hong Kong Dollars? If their intention is to sell to English speaking countries, America for example, then they should use an appropriate currency. Take Alibaba for example, they're basically all Chinks but they use American Dollars.

>And here you are, still arguing a point you do not have.
My point was that the prices aren't in Dollars, which they're not. They're in HK$.

>>1088865
exactly. it just wouldn't be dandy with a spacer. new problem (not a problem just a new step).

Need to find some new brakes thanks to the old 26" brake mounts being too inadequate for even V brakes. Do extended length V brakes exist, or am I going to long reach brakes? Who makes some half-way decent but cheap (Tektro-tier) long reach brakes?

>>1088868
>Because they're fucking using Hong Kong Dollars?
Doesn not follow.
>If their intention is to sell to English speaking countries
It isn't.
>My point was that the prices aren't in Dollars, which they're not. They're in HK$.
That's a dollar. It's not in USD, but that wasn't your claim. A dollar sign universally means a dollar - usually the local variety in regions that use the dollar. It does not equal USD. If they meant USD they'd have said so.
You're a victim of cultural imperialism and possibly a little bit retarded. kthxbai

>>1088872
I've thrown V Brakes on late 80s MTBs with no issue... Does your frame have roller-cams or a U-brake rear or what?

>>1088872
>caring
I put v brakes on 97 mtn bike that was running a 28.25" front tire. The first ones didn't work, the taller tektros worked.

File: IMG_20170708_112830557_HDR.jpg (2MB, 2549x2833px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2549x2833px

>>1088874
here's the spacing on both the canti and V, fully extended.

>>1088879
Are you running a 700c wheel in a 26" frame?

>>1088881
yup.

File: IMG_20170708_115019647_HDR.jpg (3MB, 2592x4608px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x4608px

>>1088881
It has all the necessary hardware to accommodate the larger sizing.

>>1088882
Bummer.

There are Paul Moto-Lites which have enough adjustment to accommodate the bigger wheel, but they're expensive and they wont feel great set up for this.

There are also bolt on "risers" for cantis that reposition the brakes to be high enough, but they're getting harder to find and are kind of sketchy.

The last solution is coaster brake rear and no front brake or brakeless fixie, which are both... ugh... yeah.

Is there a reason you want to run 700c in a 26" frame?

>>1088879
>>1088884
You want something like this:
http://elevnracing.com/products/brake-adaptators/

>>1088885
I want to keep my XL lugged mtb frame, but just put 700s and drops on it. got some 3x7 microshits and craigslist stem/bars/wheels, just need to pick up a quill adapter and new brakes.

>>1088888
But why do you need 700c wheels to do this? 26" dirt droppers are fun!

>>1088890
true, I love my bike, but I'm doing almost exclusively road/rough road/grass and gravel riding while I'm in the city for school right now. I'm having fun fucking around with it and turning it into a faux-cyclocross build.

File: 268b99a72806a113307b6be75341dbd3.jpg (701KB, 1200x919px) Image search: [Google]

701KB, 1200x919px

>>1088890
Forgot pic

>>1088893
I don't see the advantage in going for a bigger wheel for the purposes your describing. Hell, even high-end gravel grinder bikes are shifting into a smaller 650B wheel size.

A 26" wheel bike with slicks and a not-sketchy brake solution will probably be a lot more fun than a cobbled together 700c kluge.

>>1088894
If it has the hole mounts to accommodate the brakes it shouldn't really be a kluge. Buy them on Amazon and return them if they don't work.

>>1088896
*shrug* We've all been there I guess. You'll figure it out for yourself eventually.

>>1088863
Don't wear them with underwear. Dont' even think about it.

>>1088863
>but is there anything to expect from these things
No matter how thorough you are at wiping, you will eventually find a brown mark on your shammy.

>>1088877
disregard, im running 650b front, not 700.

File: dbCbsTy.jpg (3MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3264x2448px

Would a black stem look ok with the stock silver handlebars? Also got some black wheels and disc brakes coming in if it makes a difference

>>1088907
On that bike? Don't bother spending money on it, especially not for aesthetic reasons as it looks like shit. How are you even expecting to mount disc brakes?

>>1088909
Have a new fork coming too lmao. Also found a rear disc adapter for it. Spending money on it because I have a job aka constant source of money and all the parts I'm ordering are reusable. Tell me what you think about the black stem

>>1088912
>Spending money on it because I have a job aka constant source of money
So why not build up a decent bike?

>>1088913
I probably will after I'm done throwing money at this one

>>1088914
But the money you spend on that piece of shit could go towards making the decent bike better.

>>1088920
yes

>>1088924
Okay

Continentals vs Panaracers?

>>1088907

I think a black stem could add a little edginess to this bike. Usually I wouldn't agree but there's enough black on the rear triangle and fork to make it work

>>1088938
>Continentals vs Panaracers?

Schwalbe Professional Tires

>>1088888

thats a lot of >>1088888
ates m8

>>1088938
Conti all day every day

>>1088943
oops, didn't see this thread

new thread >>1088991

>>1086519
You need a pedal-shoe combination that reliably work well together to be a good cyclist. Those gimmick pedals are not conducive to that.

File: WF4U2253_web.jpg (124KB, 840x738px) Image search: [Google]

124KB, 840x738px

i have one of these, a 2002 bighit, with 2005 jr t forks , is it worth it to upgrade components and stuff? and buy new shit or should i just sell and buy something newer ? not much money to spare