/bqg/ - Bike Question General

>>1014100
Did he straighten your hanger using a proper tool or just eyeball it? Could also be that the derailer itself is bent.

As for the pulleys, just spray a little oil on and scour the rust/crud off with steel wool. There is no "protective coat" to worry about.

>>1014100

Surprise: your drivetrain is fucked.
You need to replace your drivetrain.

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my rear wheel in the back is not 100% straight, its off center a bit at a certain point, money is a concern


wat do?

>>1014105
Get a spoke wrench (they're not expensive) and learn to true your wheels.

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>>1014106
Is that something I should order online? Or would a local cycle shop have it?

>>1014107
Either

>>1014103
i did that awhile ago, the rust has penetrated it. I attempted the vinegar method before and im pretty sure it started to eat away at some type of coating as some of the shiny finishing started to vanish and a dull metal look appeared so i took it out.

>>1014104
I bought the bike used and can confirm that the casette is fresh AF. also i used the chain checker tool and it read .75 which meant only the chain needed to go.

Picked up a Trek-made Bontrager hardtail recently. The front fork is garbage and I'm at a loss as to how to replace it because it is inexplicably 1" threaded. I didn't even know there were suspension forks that aren't 1 1/8". I didn't even know threaded suspension forks were ever made.

Suggestions?

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>>1014118

Pic related

Keep in mind you want to know the axle-to-crown on the current fork and match it or you could f--- the handling

1" threadLESS is an option but requires a new headset (or just the top half of the headset, bottoms are actually cross-compatible between threaded and threadless 1")

If you aren't riding on MTB trail replace it with a suspension-corrected rigid fork of the correct size imho.

>>1014122

I was planning on using it for some VERY easy singletracks near my new house. Stuff that even kids can safely ride. Thanks, that fork is a bit pricey but it's good to know that threadless 1" is also an option.

>>1014118
There are some decent 1" threadless forks to be had (but not great compared to newer suspension forks), but I personally would get a rigid fork and make a sweet townie.

I laced a new wheel to an old rim(which was still round,but now its all untrue and shit.

It has a height wobble,is it fubar?

>>1014133

Hmm, that might be a better option. Any suggestions for new rigid 1" forks?

How can I make my wheels stiffer laterally?

>>1014539
Thicker spokes is the easiest option. Hub flange spacing and rim stiffness are also important factors. And spoke head spacers if you have thin flanges and the spokes don't seat well - the elbow gangs out. That can make a wheel very flexy and short lived.

>>1014167

We can't help you until you measure the axle-to-crown height, as well as the steerer tube height

To be honest you might have a hell of a time finding a rigid fork the correct size to match the suspension on your current fork.

But those measurements are needed before we'll know that

>>1014544
Do you know of any way to figure out rim stiffness quantitatively? i.e. other than trying to flex it by hand

Huge piece of metal slashed my tires last year hiding under the snow. I got a new 1.5 studded tire. Should it go on the front or rear? My other is 2.1 studded. Im thinking 1.5 on the front to pack down any snow but 2.1 has more studs, so it should be front?

>>1014550
>>1014539
I dunno if you are talking about making an existing wheel stiffer laterally or to use new rims,hubs etc.

High hub flanges,non-butted thicker spokes(13 or even 12gauge),high profile rims make for a very stiff wheel,it'll ride like a brick though.

Why do you want laterally uberstiff wheels?
Are yer brake pads rubbing under massive pedalling force?

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Where does one put a spiral lock on an OTS during travel?
The seatpost is a no-no because if hinders the leg movement, if I put it on the top tube it just dances around and I wouldn't want to entangle it with the head tube or anything silly like that.

Alternatively, is it easier (and how) to store a D-lock on an OTS?

>>1014165
First, did you verify that both the new and old rims had the same effective diameter?

Assuming you did, fixing the 'height wobble' is just called radial truing - same basic concept as lateral truing except that in this case you'll tighten the group of spokes located around the high spot on the rim and loosen the spokes on the opposite side (this pulls the hub closer to the exact center of the rim).

>>1014657
Studs are more important on the front wheel because that's the wheel that controls steering, and because it's much easier to stay in control of the bike if your rear wheel slips, compared to the front wheel slipping. For the same reasons, I would put the wider tire on the front for winter use.

>>1014719
If I don't have panniers, a saddlebag with space, a handlebar bag, jersey pocket, or pants pocket available for my small cable lock, I carry it by first attaching a small toolbag to the saddle rails, then looping the lock around the bag. In a pinch you can always carry a cable lock by wearing it around your waist.

As for carrying a U-lock - usually I don't. When I had a job where I had to park my bike outside, I simply left my lock attached to the parking rack at work instead of carrying it home everyday. When I need to go somewhere that requires the additional security of a U-lock, I put it in panniers.

I need an electric bike kit, does anybody have any recommendations? EU friendly if possible.

>>1014675
>High hub flanges
Only affect torsional stiffness and are irrelevant to the issue at hand.
>Are yer brake pads rubbing under massive pedalling force?
Stiff wheels suffer from brake rub. to lessen brake rub you need a softer wheel, not a stiffer one. A soft wheel flexes beneath the hub only. A very stiff wheel behaves like a disc and offsets the top of the wheel to the left when a force pushes the bottom edge of the wheel to the right. You have it completely backwards, Schwalbe-kun.

>>1014733

Sorta lost here but it sounds like you are taking about disc only, yeah? The same doesn't apply to run right?

I need recommendations on some rather affordable bar end levers to mount on some pursuit bars.

good place to buy derailleur hangers from?

>>1014730
Hmm, you gave me an idea, if I don't manage to attach the lock directly to the seat rail, I might improvise something with velcro and the seat rail...

>>1014786
>Microshit
http://www.microshift com tw/BS-C11_Shifters.html

I can't speak for the bar ends, but my commuter has the R8 shifters and they work really well.

>>1014742
>Sorta lost here but it sounds like you are taking about disc only, yeah?
No.
>run
To quote Manuel: ¿Que?

>>1014848
I need bar end brake levers, not shifters

>>1014833
A bike shop.

>>1014933
you do know that there are literally hundreds of different hangers right?

>>1014940
Which is why the question is unanswerable and a bike shop is a good place to start for as to have a competent mechanic find the appropriate model and order a hanger.

>>1014940
That's why you bring your bent hanger to a shop, show it to the guy, and say "I need one of these"

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>>1014942
>>1014944
I know which one i have, i asked my LBS if they could order it and they told me they couldn't as they are not a dealer of that bike. so why not do the more logical thing and order it online for cheaper like any sane fucking person would. My LBS is also the lowest rated in all of toronto im pretty sure.

>>1014953
>I know which one i have
Yet you have twice neglected to mention this crucial bit of information. Why are you so useless, anon?

>>1014960
in my initial question, i wanted to know a good website to buy from. The ones i have seen so far seem really expensive for a piece of aluminum. My friend who works at another bike store said it would cost 50$ im looking for the cheapest price i can get.

>>1014964
$50?! what the shit

>>1014968
im in canada and the part from websites is about 40 dollars plus 10 dollar shipping from america.

>>1014964
>in my initial question, i wanted to know a good website to buy from.
But no-one can tell you who might have brand X, model Y from era Z for cheap if you don't say what hanger you need. Jesus fuck, anon. How can you be this dense?

>>1014972
That's why you go to a LBS that already has that kind of hanger, not one that'll order it for you. If you can't find one, you're shit out of luck I guess.

>>1014974
literally the pic in >>1014953

>>1014978
the hanger is Focus specific and the latest model that had this one was from 2013. you do know that there are some 200+ different types right? I guess i could go to a focus dealer and see if they have it but i highly doubt it.

>>1014980
And how in the hell should anyone know that from a random picture without a 'pic related'? And why the fuck would anyone put time and effort in researching it to find out that it's a Focus hanger, when you could just say so? Seriously kill yourself, senpai.

>>1014786
Tektro has some

>>1014953
There's no magic hanger supplier. 40 + shipping is high, but not by much.

I live in northern California, just starting to get into the fall/winter weather with the temps finally dropping to low/mid 70's and the occasional rains.
What sort of tires should I throw on my road bike? I don't plan on riding during the rain, but the ground will be damp and cold, and at least for a month or two there'll be leaves everywhere.
Right now I have the Zaffiro Slick 700x23c that came with my bike, and I'm not sure how much grip I need before I'm overkilling it for the relatively light winters we get.

>>1015034
I wouldn't worry about changing tires at all unless you're unhappy with what you're currently running. Leaves, painted lines, and metal grates are always going to be slippery when wet no matter what tires you run.

got some bianchi handed over with campa veloce 10 spd but no wheels, got some wheels lying around but they come with a shimano rotor. how much of shiftperfomance loss would there be if i'd just run it with a 10 spd shimano cassette? never tried this before and google gives me confusing answers

>>1015040
I suspected as much, but I also didn't want to slam on a corner because "Oh I know best, I've been riding for a whole year I don't need winter tires in CA".
I'll just take it cautious and knock on wood.

>>1015054
Shifting won't indexing properly if you just stick in a Shimano 10-sp cassette. If you had a Shimano rear derailer and 8-speed cassette on hand to put on the bike that would index properly, but otherwise your best option is to either replace the freehub body on your wheel to accept a Campy cassette, or get a conversion cassette that uses Campy spacing and fits on a Shimano freehub.

>>1015058
guess for the moment a 8 spd casette would do the job until spring. thanks for your reply

does anyone know if you can fit studded tires on a Fuji Feather? Or just what the tire clearance is?

I'm thinking about getting one for messenger work but winter is approaching and I kinda need studs here in Stockholm

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>>1015062
forgot, I'm getting frame size 61

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>>1015062
>>1015063
You'd have to measure to say for sure, but from pics I doubt you could run any tires wider than 30mm with that frame, maybe even less. I don't think there are any studded tires on the market narrow enough to fit.

Also FYI tire clearance stays the same regardless of frame size.

>>1015073
Yeah thats what I feared. Thanks dog

My fox 32 fork has gone flat twice now...

It seems to be related to me playing with the lockout mechanism when its in my room but I don't see how that's possible.

There was also some crud on one of the shafts...could that be it?

>>1015090
how long has it been since the last time you serviced your fork and replaced the seals?

>>1015098
It's brand new as of april

>>1015099
Six months is the typical recommended service interval, so it's not that big of a surprise that you're due. Regardless, if you're losing air pressure in a fork, that means the seals aren't doing their job and need to be replaced. Take it to a bike shop for service (of course you can DIY this, but will likely require some investment in tools and materials).

>>1015104
It's still under warranty

>>1015109
All forks need service at regular intervals, it's normal.

>>1014926
Search aliexpress for tektro bar end brakes

>>1015110
kay

>>1015090
None of the air sealing seals will be visible externally or will wear any quicker due to dirt (the external seals on the stanchions keep oil in the lowers). I don't know about that particular fork but I would assume the lockout mechanism is on the opposite side tot he air spring so that should affect it in any way.

My best guess would be something is up with the valve that you use to inflate the fork. Give it a good clean and make sure there's no crap in it, if possible remove the fork from the bike and dunk it in the bathtub and look for air bubbles. If it is leaking you could replace the valve (shouldn't cost much I'd imagine) if you don't want to send it in under warranty.

>>1015104
Service intervals are highly dependent on usage conditions, unless he's been riding that shit really hard and in terrible conditions (getting dirty) it should be fine and definitely shouldn't be leaking air.

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Is it worth upgrading from Deore M610 to XT M786?

I have been told that if you can't afford the whole group at least upgrade the rear mech and shit and since it's compatible with the deore shifters I'm really tempted but also have no idea if it's going to make any significant difference.

>>1015176

Fuck it I decided to upgrade the rotors instead. Since I'm replacing my m355 brakes that came with cheap generic rotors. I might aswell spend the money on m615 brakes with RT86 XT ice-techs.

I have been reading and it looks like the XT rear mech without the XT shifters will feel not much differen than deore.

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Odd question - does anyone know why old headsets sometimes had teeth on the spacer between the upper race and locking?

My new bike just arrived. Took a gamble on an online order. But the bike was good valu and will be close enough to the correct fit to last me until I want to upgrade the frame.

TRP spyre discs. Never had discs, bu they don't bother me. What does bother me? Full fucking 105 for $1200 delivered. Yeaaa boi. Gotta go fast.

Anyway, excitedness and douchebaggery aside, any last checks i should do before I go find some spare pedals and take it for a cruise? Thru axels are installed and tightened correctly, gear and cranks already were on, handle bars and wheels on basically straight.

Have i missed something catastrophic? Being a slow bored, you guys might not here ack from me if I did.

>>1015176
>I have been told that if you can't afford the whole group at least upgrade the rear mech
That's the part that matters the least in the whole group. Whoever told you this is an idiot.

>>1015207
If it's tabbed, then it makes it so you don'y need 2 wrenches. If it's not tabbed, then it won't accidentally strip your steerer.

>>1015232

what is the most important component then?

I'm sure I've asked this before, but if a saddle is chewing my taint off after an hour or two, aside from any complete incompatibilities with my nether region, will lowering the nose lower the pressure?

Also, can a fatbike (or perhaps a normal mountain bike even) ride up sand dunes? I took my AR bike on a path that ended up being deep sand for a good amount and had no choice but to push it a lot.

>>1015222
If the brakes work you should be good. Check the headset and seatpost tightness maybe.

>>1015250
Cheers. Yeah, breaks work well enough. Need some adjustment but that's more a personal preference thing. Gotta tweak it so there's less travel before they really bite in.

Fuck me, a 2016 bike is so much more comfortable than a 1994 bike. And fuck me does 105 feel nice compared to old, beat up and weather damaged sora (with downtube shifters, no less).

>>1015176
>>1015195
The XT derailer has a clutch which can make a big difference, it'll be quieter and less likely to drop the chain over rough terrain.

The rotors won't make much difference except over long descents where the Ice Tech ones should stay cooler. The brakes themselves should make a huge difference, I have both (not exact same models but similar) and the newer models feel so much better.

So, you made a good decision on brakes, now change that rear derailer.

>>1015244
Depends on what you're after. If it's lower weight is probably the chainset. If it's shifting featuresand feel it's the triggers. If it's shifting itself it's the cables/housing, chain and cassette.
Like the other anon said, the M786 has clutch if that's something you want, but then so does the Deores above M615. And they're much cheaper while not being much heavier.
Upgrade for specific features. Not some magical group rating system that only exists in advertising.

Bike companies with low morals """upgrade""" the rear derailleur because it costs practically nothing (compared to the cost of upgrading the whole group, proper) and it lets the salesmen say that it 'has SLX/XT shifting' when in reality everything about the build is Deore or less in practical performance.

I was wrong though. If rotors can even be thought of as a group component, then they're and even more pointless """upgrade""" than the rear derailleur. If it's not for muh grams, but if you were a WW you wouldn't have to ask.

What setup should I go for if I want to be able to shift under load?

>>1015281
A rope with a loop.

My freewheel has developed a problem whereby whereby after a few hours of cycling it will bind up and tighten down on the wheel, so that it's not a freewheel any more, it's an imprisoned wheel, and when I'm coasting I can feel a resistance there slowing me down. I can easily undo it just by slightly loosening the outside cup a little but I'd prefer it didn't happen at all. wat do?

>>1015267
>>1015272

Would upgrading the deore shifters to XT be a better option?

>>1015281
Just stop mashing for half a second and shift man

>>1015339

Freewheels are like $12 right? If it's old just get a new I've

>>1015252

After headset and axles the most important thing to check is the limits on the rear derailleur. If you accidentally shift past the biggest cassette sprocket at speed you are in for a world of pain

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>>1015339
No offense, but are you sure you have a freewheel and not a freehub?

If a freewheel behaved that way, I would be surprised, but the cause would be straightforward (not enough good lubricant on the bearings inside the freewheel).

But I have seen this happen with freehub wheels a few times - the issue is that the cone and locknut aren't properly adjusted against each other, so the cone comes loose and threads itself into the hub, thus binding the freehub body.

>>1015243
Thanks, but I still don't get it - I understand how the teeth could offer extra security keeping a tabbed washer in place (though this hardly seems necessary), but without a tab, what's the advantage of keeping the washer (which is nothing more than a spacer to increase the stack height of the headset?) trapped in placed relative to the race? Why bother cutting those teeth at all?

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Got second hand TCR recently. All in great condition for the price apart from cosmetic scuffs. One thing that sucks though is the seatpost bolts are rounded and corroded. The previous owner obviously never greased them or uncrewed them. The seat height is mamagable but could be aconvinced couple centimetres higher. Any tips for getting these out?

Pic related. Also its the grubbiest part of the bike.

>>1015373

I hear a lot of vintage bike guys drilling bolts out.

I think the process is drilling progressively larger bits down the center of the bolts until only the bolt threads are left, then pulling them out

Sounds annoying as hell

If there is anything left to the hex holes I would try penetrating oil on it, several times a day for a couple days, then pray to God and put a fresh, non-rounded hex wrench in there

>>1015373
You'll likely need a screw extractor, but the no-special-tools method I would try first is to soak the seized bolts in ammonia as best you can (this will dissolve some of the aluminum oxide that's trapping them in place) and then jam in the largest flathead screwdriver you can fit into the stripped hex fitting and see if they'll twist loose.

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>>1015356

90% sure it's a freewheel rather than a freehub

I'll try repacking it with a heavier grease

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can the revoshifts (or similar) be installed just on a straight handlebars ? mine has like pic related, i'm not sure they will go through the bends...

>>1014107
i got mine from china

>>1015373
Rounded hex nuts can sometimes be extracted by hammering a one-size-too-large torx bit in. It'll cost you a torx bit, but it's the cheapest fix for soft, small screws if you don't already own a screw extractor. Getting one would be the next step.

Marinate well in 5-56 or WD-40 before you start.

If I use a 6-speed shimano shifter with a 7 speed shimano cassette will I just not have access to the last gear depending on how I set my limit screws or will it be tarded in other ways?

>>1015411
It will be tarded and unshifting. 7spd have "only" 5mm C-C spacing, while 6spd uses 5.5mm. It will not index properly.

>>1015411
I forgot to add that there is also no reason to,a s 6spd freewheels* are still widely available. SJS Cycles and Amazon will sort it out for you.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/freewheels/shimano-mftz20-hyperglide-6-speed-freewheel-1428t/

*I don't think yours is a cassette as they're very rare. I don't believe for example Shimano ever made them. For the difference between a freehub cassette and a freewheel, see higher up in the thread and Sheldon Brown.

>>1015384
Just tried on some bars I had lying around and the fuckers started separating as soon as I got close to a curve so probably only for straight bars. My dad has a ghetto-rigged setup where he stuck it on the end of a bar-end that he placed closer to the stem, wasn't that annoying to use actually.

>>1015392
>>1015377
>>1015379

Thanks for the info folks I'll try these, one by one. LBS says they can drill it out but its fairly expensive

>>1015350
Shit, thanks. I didnt even think to check that. They came set up already, but the company offers serious budget bikes.

A few years back they were notorious for sending out shit that was pretty dodgey. Apparently they're a lot better, but i still dont wnt to trust some guy who's earning peanuts.

On the other hand, when I was talking to their customer suport. The guy who was helping me was fantastic. New hs shit about bikes. Sure, he was trying to upsell me. It's his job. But he only offered shit that actually made sense, which is always nice.

>>1015373
I don't suggest trying to drill it out unless you know what you're doing. If it's not completely rounded you could try soaking it in rost off. Use that shit at work and it'll help unstuck some serious bolts. Like 1 1/2 inch bolts at ~500nm.

>>1015491

Sure I'll keep that in mind. I personally wouldn't drill it out myself it would be a mechanic doing it. I don't think I really understand the concept of it anyway. Plus the bikr is made with fairly thin alu so I wouldnt want to fuck up and compromise the tubing in any way.

>>1015465
thank you for the test, kind anonyman.

i gues it would be stupid to cut the handlebar to fit those... i just can't stand the shifters from the 90s

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Hey /bqg/ I'm completely new to biking never owned one myself, finally need one to get around so I'm looking for one that's the usual, cheap and doesn't break in a week looks can be a plus but don't mind it right now, where can I get redpilled to start into biking and the mechanical aspect of it? Cheers

>>1015656
>cheers
please leave

>>1015656
budget ? rigid 90s mtb

Whats a good 32h rear hub for touring with a 2x10? Preferably not too expensive, like maybe around $60

>>1015685
XT FH-M8000. Bomb proof. Nice freehub sound. Good skewers and the body isn't made of mild cheese alloy. Can be had for <45€ including 25% sales tax. I don't know the exact exchange rate, but it shouldn't be more than about $60.

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Is this a good bike?

>>1015708
Yes. Though whoever set the handlebars up should be shot.
If it's good value is another matter and you haven't said what it would cost you, but TA, hydro discs and SRAM 1x with Ritchey finishing kit puts it well above average. Alexrims wheels are usually unexciting/heavy, poorly machine-built on cheap hubs and that's probably the weakest part of the build. Jamis is a high value, low street cred brand name.

>>1015718
It would be around $1600

Thanks for the info

What's the deal with barend shifters, why are they so frequent on touring bikes? Why not just SRAM/Shimano STI?

Also I can't decide on crankset for upcoming NZ tour. I used 46/34 11-36 for a Iceland tour recently but I felt it was a bit tough for longer climbs (completely manageable, just a little bit too hard). So now I'm thinking to go full mountain with 42/28, but is that a significant decrease in speed? Would I just be better off with a shimano triple? I really like SRAM :(

>>1015718
Also, there is another one, basically the same bike, but made if aluminum instead of fiber, 100g heavier. Costs $1250

>>1015078
Your other option is to get a fork with more clearance (touring, hybrid, or CX fork) and just run studs in the front, and a regular tire (or narrow 'cross tire) out back. That's what I did in my messenger days in Boston.

>>1015740
Yeah I know some people do that here too but doesn't that make it really dangerous to skid? Snow isn't really a big problem in the city here, either the snow melts when it hits the street or it's cleared pretty fast. Icy spots which can't really be seen are pretty common too

>>1015733
>What's the deal with barend shifters, why are they so frequent on touring bikes? Why not just SRAM/Shimano STI?
Because hipsters. Also because Shimano can't make STI compatible with mountainbike derailleurs above 9spd, so if you want a high gear range cassette with a triple front, you're either in for some serious redneck engineering - or barcons.

SRAM doesn't have that problem. Feel free to build a Doubletap-shifter tourer with an X7 RD. I have.

>>1015741
Rear slips are manageable and often correctable. Even the ones that bring you down usually do so in a controllable, nice fashion, going hip first. When the front wheel slips out from under you you're going face first into the pavement. You don't even get the option to roll that you might when your front wheel hits something.

>>1015733
>>1015742

Bar end shifters last longer than any STI.

A lot of people have this one STI that totally laster 20 years and they'll tell you about it. Great. Good job

A bar end can lose it's indexed shifting but be run in friction mode

Also a friction bar-end is nice because you don't have to set things up properly. You can put on a 7 speed wheel, a 9 speed wheel, and still shift. You can also shift 3+ gears at once

A lot of people don't like them because there is extra mental energy involved in planning shifts, moving your hand, and finding the gear if you are in friction mode

For a drop bar touring bike that actually goes on tour, bar-end is better

But the truth is most touring bike owners are LARPing and never actually go on a tour long enough to warrant the reliability of a bar end

And STI is just better in every measurable way when it comes to maintaining speed and ease of use.

They're just more delicate, more expensive, and harder / impossible to fix if you are in the middle of nowhere

>>1015745
>Bar end shifters last longer than any STI.
That's like saying a rock lasts longer than an axe holds its edge. While technically true, you have to be a drainbamaged hipster to think it relevant.

>>1015745

Further, a bar-end shifter is just a downtube shifter in a more convenient place. PEople who hate bar ends but have no problem with downtube shifters are just aesthetic-obsessed consumer whores

>>1015747
>people who hate bar ends but have no problem with downtube shifters
... exist?

>>1015745
>They're just more delicate, more expensive, and harder / impossible to fix if you are in the middle of nowhere
still doesn't this count for bar end shifters too? I mean if they break they break right, both are way too complex to fix without tools on a dirt road in Uganda?

I need to replace my current Sram apex ones but now i'm starting to consider barrends since it also seems like a cheaper option, however I wont go on a tour longer than max two months in a probably very long time which kinda makes me think the comfort of STIs would make it worth it

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>>1015743
Yeah that's true. Thanks for the tip dog

>>1015746
>That's like saying a rock lasts longer than an axe holds its edge. While technically true, you have to be a drainbamaged hipster to think it relevant.

What don't you understand about bike touring? Do you know what it means?

>>1015749
>... exist?

Yeah see the guy above

>>1015759
>still doesn't this count for bar end shifters too? I mean if they break they break right, both are way too complex to fix without tools on a dirt road in Uganda?

No you can work with them. For instance, if a shimano bar end "broke" you could screw it into place tight enough to allow friction shifting, or pick your gear and nail it down there.

Also, you can replace a shimano bar-end mounting pods with most old downtube shifters, so a replacement could be found along the way for very little money

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My 10 year-old saddle started to rip and tear this year. Is there anything I can do to prevent replacing it soon? If not, may I just ignore the tearing and keep using it?

>>1015763
>all this white space
>double feeds everywhere
Do you know how I know you have no opinion worth considering on anything?

>>1015763
>Yeah see the guy above
There is exactly one instance of 'downtube shifter' in the thread before yours, and it is unrelated. You're looking more like an idiot, senpai.

>>1015776
>may I just ignore the tearing and keep using it?
Of course, but a saddle like that is 5€ anyway, so why not get a new one? Padding must be dead and cover all slippery anyway.

>>1015776
From the picture I think that saddle cover will last a good while longer before the tear becomes a problem, but it's pretty easy to deal with when you can't ignore it anymore:

If you don't care about looks, cover the tear with duck tape.

If you do care about looks, that saddle would be relatively easy to re-upholster (carefully remove the cover to avoid damaging the foam underneath, use the old cover as a template to cut a new one out of the material of your choice, then affix the new cover with spray-on adhesive and staples.

>>1015813
Padding and cover are OK. Just some pieces started to rip. These I shown on the photo.

>>1015656
90s rigid mtb with slicks

>>1015776
there's nothing u can do, and you need a new frame as the one you are using is too big for you.

>>1015830
>you need a new frame as the one you are using is too big for you
How can you affirm this?

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Should I worry about the state of the grease on this gear, or is it OK?

>>1015814
>If you don't care about looks, cover the tear with duck tape.
Have you done this at least once? I never did, but I know a woman that did, and the result was the duck tape fixing on her clothing, instead on the saddle itself.

>>1015834
It's not going to do much harm. That said in the time it took you to take that photo, transfer, and upload it you could've just scraped the crap off.

>>1015836
>It's not going to do much harm.
So, why would I scrap it, in the first place? Nonsense. It was better to ask and then do nothing.

>That said in the time it took you to take that photo, transfer, and upload it you could've just scraped the crap off.
You are ignoring the fact that I took many photos at once, and would scrap the crap many times until my death, resulting in great loss of time.

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>>1015838
>this whole post

>>1015838
>So, why would I scrap it, in the first place?
Because it's dirt and would literally take less than a minute to scrape off.

>>1015838
it's just caked on dirt and oil. If you don't care about having a dirty bike then leave it. It might shorten the life of your chain slightly since it's constantly picking up some of that dirt as it runs around the cog, but not a huge amount.

>>1015841
>would literally take less than a minute to scrape off
I know, but >>1015836 said
>It's not going to do much harm.
What does not results in harm, should not result in worries.

>>1015844
So do you never clean your bike?

>>1015846
I clean the frame when it starts dirting my clothing, I clean the handles when they begin to smell bad, and I clean the wheels rim when they get black or brown. But I never cleaned the gears, that's why I'm asking.

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Is there any way to fixate safety reflectors on this basket? There is no other place I could fixate it, and I think it would be good to have one white reflector on the front.

>>1015842
>If you don't care about having a dirty bike then leave it.
I'll just leave it then.

>t might shorten the life of your chain slightly since it's constantly picking up some of that dirt as it runs around the cog
Oops, so I'll clean it now! This is what worried me.

>>1015850
buy a big bag of zip-ties and some hose clamps and you can fix anything into place on that basket.

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How secure is this kind of lock?
I don't know its brand, and it has like 10 years old. Recently I applied SINGER oil to make it work again, and it's nice as new.

>>1015866
Can you just make a single fucking post with multiple questions?

That's a shit lock that could easily be smashed apart or picked, but with such a shitty bike I wouldn't worry about someone taking the effort to do so.

>>1015869
>Can you just make a single fucking post with multiple questions?
I can't post more than 1 photo per post, so if I need to show more than 1 thing, I need to do more than 1 post.

>That's a shit lock that could easily be smashed apart or picked
I believe, but I also want to know: why do you think this?

>>1015870
>I can't post more than 1 photo per post, so if I need to show more than 1 thing, I need to do more than 1 post.
Are you mentally disabled? Are you not aware that you can combine multiple photos in one image?

>I believe, but I also want to know: why do you think this?
I don't think, I know. I'm not really sure what sort of answer you're after, it's simply a shitty quality lock made from shitty materials.

>>1015870
Cable locks are shit. Most cheap ones like that, you can just yank the bike away from whatever it's cabled to and the lock will snap. They can be cut with bolt croppers in a few seconds also. If you want a lock that works get a good quality D lock.

>>1015866
Previous anons nailed it - if you're worried about theft, a cable lock is quite easy to defeat. A cable lock is useful for securing your front wheel in conjunction with a U-lock, and in low-risk situations where it's unlikely anyone will try to cut your lock, but in absolute terms the cable alone doesn't offer much security.

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>>1015872
>If you want a lock that works get a good quality D lock.
D lock on Wikipedia redirects to Padlock. So, one like this?
And then use a normal chain?

>>1015869
>but with such a shitty bike I wouldn't worry about someone taking the effort to do so
I worry only a little, as people addicted to crack would want to sell the bike for 1 or 2 rocks.

>>1015877
U lock. Like Kryptonite or Abus.

Are seat posts and handle bar sizes standardized?

>>1015901
somewhat, but there are different standards for each depending on the type of bike and age

seatpost should be the same for almost everything

>>1015835
DId she get her husband to put the tape on? Because if she did, or at least asked him for some advice first, she'd have known the sticky side goes down.

>>1015911
this.
my saddle is 90% duct tape and it works perfectly

Why do people use Strava over other apps?

>>1015901
Yes.

Handle bars are a bit simpler, flat bars are either 25.4/31.8/35mm, newer drop bars are 31.8mm and older ones are something like 22mm, and all BMX bars are the same size at I think 22.2mm (well, there are the odd few that are larger but very rare).

Seat post sizes are less varied these days with 31.6mm and 30.9mm probably being the most common and after that is probably 25.4mm I think. Then there are also a shit load that fall inbetween and below as well as some very rare sizes on older bikes. If you can't find an exact size you can usually use a smaller post with shims, same goes for handlebars.

>>1015913
Some people like the social aspects of riding. Some people have that voyeur/exhibitionist thing going.

Some people just like to track their rides.

My new bike has over sized drops. They're no exactly uncomfortable - just feel a little strange. It's an endurance bike and feels a little sluggish in the way it turns. I was expecting this, but find i'm not digging it as much as i would - going from a super aggresive bike to a very relaxed one.

Would switching out the handlebars to a similar size to my old ones have any effect on its handling? Other than having the same width,

>>1015863
I will think about it.

>>1015871
>Are you not aware that you can combine multiple photos in one image?
I can combine multiple images that are related, for example, images about gears and chains. Combining images about other parts would result in increased confusion.

>it's simply a shitty quality lock made from shitty materials
Which materials are it made from?

>>1015929
>Combining images about other parts would result in increased confusion.
How the fuck would we confuse a seat, a derailer pulley, a basket, and a lock? It would be quite clear which image related to which question.

>Which materials are it made from?
Why are you trying to be so awkward about this? Do you want exact chemical formulas? The plastic casing is so easy to break that it's essentially irrelevant, the underlying lock material is crappy pot metal that is so weak a swift whack with any metal object will crack it open (or just pull the shit apart yanking on the bike).

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>>1015911
TOP KEK
She has no husband, I think she liked me.
Maybe was a bad duct tape, or an old one.

How about this one here?
>expiration date: 2010
May/Should I use it?

>>1015938
>Expiration date on tape
what

>>1015939
I suppose the glue can degrade and the tape peels off the place. I bought this one because my dad's tape couldn't glue anymore, it was completely smeared.

Hey bros. I haven't touched my bike in a year and a half. It's been sitting in the garage. It's all dusty, tires flat, chain I assume is dry.

Am I going to need to buy new tires and chain? Or can I just put air in them and put WD40 or something on the chain? I have no idea what exactly needs to go into getting a dusty bike back on the road.

>>1015942
>Am I going to need to buy new tires
Inflate them, and check if they get flat again on the next day.

>>1015917
the amount of sweep on the and the angle of the steerer is probably the main thing that affects handling responsiveness, but those aren't really changeable

replacing the drops may make the steering feel more responsive because smaller hand movements result in bigger adjustments to steering, but you loose force so its actually less effective

its the same sort of thing i notice when switching from my road bike to my flat bar commuter cause the weather sucks

>>1015942
please do not use wd-40 on your chain, actual chain lube costs like $5

>>1015932
>Why are you trying to be so awkward about this?
I'm not trying to be awkward, but I can acknowledge that I'm being, in the process of receiving more information! So, I'm trying to get more information, OK?

>Do you want exact chemical formulas?
Nope, I know you can't know this just by looking at a photo.

>The plastic casing is so easy to break that it's essentially irrelevant
The purpose of the plastic casing isn't to increase the security anyways, is to enclose the lock so the user does not needs to touch metal parts, that can oxidate and generate smell.

>the underlying lock material is crappy pot metal that is so weak a swift whack with any metal object will crack it open (or just pull the shit apart yanking on the bike).
>pot metal
Thanks for this information. I did not knew this term until now. I expect that some day I will be able to detect this kind of metal just by looking at it.

Until then, I will need to ask on 4chan.

>>1015966
> I expect that some day I will be able to detect this kind of metal just by looking at it.
Probably the best way I can describe it is it looks like lead (but obviously isn't due to not being as soft or heavy), a really dull grey but perhaps a little lighter shade than lead.

I can only see a bit of it in that photo so I'm just making an assumption but it's very likely that is the case, all cheap shitty cable locks are made from it.

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>>1015971
>I can only see a bit of it in that photo so I'm just making an assumption
On this place I circled?
Do you accept another photo, showing it better?

>>1015974
The bit next to the brass tumbler. The bit you circled may also be pot metal and just plated and that's why it's shiny, or it could be a harder wearing steel.

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>>1015975
>The bit next to the brass tumbler.
>brass
Another name, thank you. Brass is easy to identify, due to the color.

Now, is it here?

>The bit you circled may also be pot metal and just plated and that's why it's shiny, or it could be a harder wearing steel.
How to confirm which of them it is?

>>1015982
Yeah that's the bit. If you're going to replace the lock for a better one crack the plastic off to have a better look, then hit it with a hammer to see just how weak it is.

>How to confirm which of them it is?
You could use a file on it and see if the underlying metal is significantly different from the surface. As above you could also hit it with a hammer to give you an idea of how soft or hard it is.

How do I untan myself after months of not using sunscreen

>>1016008
don't go outside for a year or two

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Do puncture resistant tubes require less air? I'm at 40 psi on this new tube and it's hard as a rock. Since it has thicker walls does that mean there's less air for the tires to get into?

>>1016008
skin bleach

>>1016019
Puncture resistant tubes (and tires) will feel more firm to the touch simply because there's more rubber inside the tire. Optimal pressure will be slightly less than what you'd run with regular tubes, but not by much.

>>1015950
Right. So it'll just be a comfort change. I'll give it a week or two and see if i can get used to the wider hand positions. Thanks dude.

Anyone here tried to weld up their own bike frame?

>>1015899
>Like Kryptonite or Abus
Both are european companies, I'm not completely sure I will find these in my country.

>>1016039
modern frames are brazed, not welded
if you don't already know what the process is, I wouldn't recommend trying it, its gonna take a long time to learn

>>1016039
No, but i'm a boilermaker. The welding should be quite easy. Getting the fit up would be the hard part.

Gonna go chromoly or titanium?

>>1016042
He didnt ask about brazed bikes. He asked if any one has welded their own frame. Something that's still done. And s reasonably easy to do.

>>1016044
fair enough, welding steel is doable on your own
alu is pretty hard unless you already have experience with TIG

I did a bike fit, i can now no longer reach the floor from my saddle, is this ok? i can hop onto the top tube and reach the floor though

>>1016081
Yeah, it's usually like that.
Check out this page and the video on there if you need to get an idea of how you don't need to be able to touch ground while on the saddle.

>>1016081
>>1016084
oh fug, it would help if I linked it, apologies.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/starting.html

>>1016081
Rule of thumb I use is to put my heel on the pedal with my leg locked to find saddle height. That gives you enough bend in your leg when you pedal using the ball of your foot.

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should I worry about this bend? Its on both seatstays caused by apparently overloading a thule rack, so it's on both sides.

>>1016104
what's the frame made of?

>>1016105
right, sorry, its chromoly

I'm moving to a city where I can see myself riding a bike pretty much everywhere. What would you recommend for a cost effective & dependable bike? I don't necessarily mind paying for something that is quality and will last a long time, but don't need something that is top of the line. Also, where should I look?

>>1016104
Are you a fatty and/or planning on putting heavy stuff on a rear rack again? If not it should be okay, maybe even a little better as they'll be a bit more flex to the rear end that you may find more comfortable.

>>1016107
you should be good, unless you intend to do some real high impact jumping I'd say.
If you want it unbent just don't try to unbend it on your own, take it to a shop. Chances are you'd do it unevenly.

>>1016110
>>1016109
I'll tour with it but I'll be frontloading everything except a 14L saddle bag so I guess I'll leave it. Thanks

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>>1015834
>>1015836
>>1015838
>>1015840
>>1015841
>>1015842
>>1015844
>>1015846
>>1015847
>>1015859

OK, I cleaned it. I couldn't remember it was red!

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>>1015863
>you can fix anything into place
Anything includes this?

>>1016125
Another little tip for you that may come in useful in the future, red pulleys are almost always a sign of a crappy derailer. I have no idea why this is, maybe red plastic is cheaper for some reason.

>>1016126
Use the screw, put a washer on the inside of the basket that's large enough not to go through the holes. You could even use that bit of metal if you don't have any washers. If you're lucky the plastic nub will line up with another hole in the basket and stop the reflector from rotating.

>>1016127
>If you're lucky the plastic nub will line up with another hole in the basket and stop the reflector from rotating.
Probably it will not, the holes are very small.

>You could even use that bit of metal if you don't have any washers.
That's a good idea. But I doubt the screw will pass through the small holes of the basket.

Are jerseys worth it

Are clipless pedals worth it compared to just wearing normal shoes

>>1016141
>Are clipless pedals worth it compared to just wearing normal shoes

https://www.bikejames.com/strength/the-flat-pedal-revolution-manifesto-how-to-improve-your-riding-with-flat-pedals/

>>1016141
Yes for anything longer than like 30-40km or if you're pushing hard.

>>1016141

The technical material of a jersey wicks sweat away and dries quickly, but the main reason theyre made for cycling over any other sports top is the three back pockets. Ultra handy.

Clipless pedals dont necessarily reduce effort, but I find them a lot easier to maintain an even rhythm with, theyve improved my riding to no end, especially climbing. For just the commute or a leisure ride tho then nah I wouldn't bother.

>>1016108
most cities have kinda rough roads in places/broken glass and shit, so I would recommend against a road bike

really, you want something made of chromoly, since its for transportation not racing, and chromoly is indestructable and cheap

its a bit of a meme on this board, but for good reason, look around on your local craigslist for a 90s rigit mtb, they make great commuter conversions with slick tires and they ride pretty well even on shitty roads

plus, you can pick up a decent one for around $100 and all you may need to do is tuneit up a bit, replace the tires, get a better saddle, and a rack, so $150-$200 ready to ride

the other advantage of that is that it won't get stolen (probably, a good lock is still worth it), and spare parts cost nothing

>>1016141
clipless are worth it if you're trying to train for speed or something
if you're commuting or just going to the store, not really, just focus on your foot position with flats and they're almost as good

Are SRAM bar end shifters able to run in friction mode? I see most popular stuff like microshift etc are for Shimano..
Thinking of changing to bar end shfiters but I dont want shimano components desu

>>1015872
>If you want a lock that works get a good quality D lock.
What do you have to say about this?
>Tests carried out by the Cyclists' Touring Club showed that all of the locks under test could be broken in less than 42 seconds using either bolt cutters for a cable/chain or a bottle jack for D-locks.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_lock

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Is this a good shifter? It's brand is YAMADA.

I believe it's a bit strange: it's almost totally made of metal, but there are some plastic pieces that break and requires me to replace both shifters... I think this is planned obsolescence. There are shifters without planned obsolescence?

>>1016155
If the D-lock is properly locked fitting a jack inside one is almost impossible. And yes there isn't a single lock that makes your bike unstealable. All they do is act as a deterrent and slows down the thief so that they hopefully don't bother with your bike. For this D-locks are much better as they require heavier tools to open than cable lock which can be snapped open in seconds with any leverage.

>>1014833
The internet.

>>1016153
the front shifter is always friction,
the rear one usually has a bit you can unscrew to turn off indexing, but not all modles

I'm lost on what to do and I'm thinking of going to a bike repair shop but I'd figure I'd ask. I'm a very amateur unskilled mechanic.
Background: Had an old steel ten speed that had a rear drop out break (Japanese made). I bought a new used bike (same model/same era) mostly just to use the frame to transfer components.

This issue I'm having is with the rear wheel. I can line up the wheel to be centred on the frame near the bottom bracket and the chain stays but then it is off about 1 cm on the seat stays near the brakes. This becomes an issue because the rear brakes don't line up on the rim.

What I've done: Used string to try to determine if frame was bent after reading Sheldon Brown. Me and a friend thought it looked good. Tried the wheel from the broken bike and the new bike on the new unbroken frame but both are uneven near the seat stays. I tried the wheel from the broken bike on the broken frame and it too seems uncentred at the seat stays but centred at the chain stays.. Is this even normal? What is going on? How do I get the centre pull brakes to line up on the rim if it is uncentred?

Pretty poor so trying to do what I can by myself with borrowed tools.

>>1016194
Is the spacing between the dropouts the same on both frames?

>>1016195
yes it is.

How do I figure out what spoke size I need?
I have an OTS and it has 26" wheels

>>1016258
With a measuring tape

what is it called when you are biking on a rough path and your bike jumps/skips gears cause of all the bouncing? something like 4 to 7 without you touching the shifter. im not that familiar with bikes. i dont know what term to google or what parts are malfunction/broken. this bike hasnt been maintained at all.
if its just on the street it seems to function fine.

>>1016194
you need to re-dish the wheel, ie move the rim relative to the axle by loosening spokes one side, tightening on the other.
I get what you say about centering @ the bb - it only appears centered though and you've likely angled it slightly to get it in - you can check that with a bit of string from the dropouts to the back of the wheel maybe but it won't be much.
properly dished it the rim will be centered at the bottom bracket and the brakes.
spacing between the dropouts might be the same on both frames - the wheel itself might have a different dish depending on what the gearing is though.
Good luck with it !

>>1016260
that might be a shitty derailer, might also be autoshifting due to frame flex and the cable routing not being smooth

Any good online guides to adjusting the front dérailleur out there? I might've fucked something up.
Preferably video ones and even more preferably for the Shimano tiagra ones.
Thanks in advance.

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Does /n/ have any 28 mm tire recommendations? I'm looking to replace my 25s for something a little more comfy but don't know much about tire brands.

>>1016333
You don't ""need"" to go larger for more comfort. The important figure is the TPI.
I replaced my shitty low TPI 28 mm tyres with higher TPI 25 mm tyres and felt a considerable difference in ride comfort.

Not trying to talk you out of it, tho. But it's not absolutely necessary to get bigger tyres.

>>1016333
I use Clement Strada LGG's in 28c. Comfiest tyre I've ridden although they seem to cut up a bit faster than the GP4kII's I replaced. When these die I'll either get the same again in 32c or get some panaracer Pasela's.

Any suggestions on what would be a decent value for money cx frame? disc brakes capable obviously, thru axels? Got a bike with full 105 and trp spyre's but am not completely happy with the frame.

Looking to spend no more than 1k on the frame with fork.

Not going to be used for racing, mostly my short commute and weekend rides in the bush, fairly rough but non technical flat single track/trails.

I have an old 2002 specialized hardtail I was going to get a new stem for it but I don't know what length to get, my current stock stem that I've used for 12 years is 100mm/5 degree but ATM it feels like I'm riding hunched forward.
It's my main bike, I try to use it for all sorts or stuff really, it's mainly for commuting but a lot of the time I take it on trails or even downhilling when I feel like it.

Will a shorter stem help my riding posture?
Will it take a while to get used to it?

>>1016377
I'm 6'3" 242 lbs btw.

I'm building an all mountain bike. I have an older frame for 26" wheels. What would be good rims? I'm planning to ride some bike parks so too. I already have an used pair of Hope pro 2 hubs (the pair cost 80€)

Also what spokes should I get?

>>1016364
What's wrong with your current frame? And would a fork swap fix it?

>>1016377
Try it and find out. There's no way to tell for sure, and stems are cheap enough to buy a couple and switch them around.

>>1016104
Wat? Are you sure that bend isn't supposed to be there? The chain stays look to have a bend in them from the factory as well.
Check for me:
1.Is the bend on the opposite side of the frame different, or identical?
2. You sure it wasn't there before? Maybe you just didn't notice it until now? What model is the bike?

I'm just really suspicious since I've never seen this kind of bend before right in the middle of a seat stay. How would a rack cause this? Were there p-clamps at that location or something?

>>1016131
The screw can force one of the small holes open. You can file the plastic nub down to fit. Also there are handlebar reflectors that you can buy instead if you have the disposable income for it.

>>1016104
That wasn't caused by the rack you retard. It's not even near anywhere the rack load is suspended. It's supposed to look like that.

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>>1016438
>>1016422
no, I mean one of these racks, almost all the load is put on the upper fastening, so it gets bent that way. They're bent in, towards the wheel as made, but not upwards like this, the frame is a Specialized Awol

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>>1016443
But how fucking stupid do you have to be to mount that abomination on a frame that has rack mounts? You deserve the ruined frame, famalamadingdong.

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>>1016459
I used it for work and the company payed for it so I didn't feel like buying a new rear rack since I don't need it for anything else than work

I noticed when removing my cassette that the freewheel on the hub is kinda loose, how do I tighten it?
Do I just put the cassette back on and pull hard with a chain whip?

>>1016496
Is it still loose when the wheel is bolted in the frame? Some freehubs aren't even secured to the wheel hub in any way and can be pulled right off, tightening the axle squeezes everything together.

If it is still loose when in the frame then there maybe be a nut that you can tighten under the cassette lockring, or you may need to remove the axle and bearings from the hub to get to it.

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Is this brake lever quality acceptable, or should I worry about it? I remember it's forged aluminium. But it doesn't has the brand name on it.

I bought it many years ago to replace the plastic one I had, when I became aware of the risk of plastic levers.

>>1016505
Yes

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anyone have problems with strava lately? the blue is what i also did but it missed all that.

>>1016385
Its an endurance frame. Decent but does hqve rom for anything over 28s and id like some off road capable tyres.

how much does a out front computer mount help compared to mounting it on your stem?

>>1016548

Strava literally plots the raw GPS data onto a map. If there's a problem, it's with the data from the device you used to record the route, not Strava.

>>1016149
thank you! that was a lot of help

>>1016559
It isn't a huuuge difference, but not having to shift your eyes as far down is really nice and convenient. It keeps more of what's in front of you in your FOV

>>1016575
no problem, feel free to post your local craigslist in the /bbg/ and we'll let you know if there are any good deals in there

>>1016505
looks fine m8

What do you usually drink on your rides? just water?
And what do you eat?

i've got a 2008 giant rincon that's been giving me gear related problems lately,i'm not really too knowledgeable on bikes so i was wondering if there's some sort of website to help me figure it out?
my go-to mech is outta town and isn't coming back for 2 more weeks

>>1016646
I just drink water. I grab random snack bars from the supermarket for eating. At the moment I've got some banana-bread flavored muesli bar things.

>>1016158
It's not 'planned obsolescence', it's a shitty $7 pair of shifters that broke.

>>1015734
take the alloy one and upgrade to better wheels, you will probably come out cheaper and have a nicer ride that way.

>>1016646
Water, bananas and granola bars
Replace one water bottle with gatorade or similar if the trip is gonna be too long (like 5 hours+)

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How can i make my bicycle shoes last? the tip is all messed up from putting my right foot down.

>>1016674
Don't put your foot down

>>1016674
duct tape

>>1016674
Put your foot down properly. Not the tip you mong.

>>1014953
Wheels manufacturing or something like that had my obscure ass hanger for my road bike so I'd check them out

>>1015062
I run 28mms with some touring tires
Not shabby for gravel riding

Hey guys, not a mechanical question here. I'm somewhat new to biking and got a nice road bike about two months ago. Since then I've gone on 4-5 rides of around 15 miles each through hilly terrain in my city. I'm thinking about trying a 40 mile ride on a flat trail today. Do you think the jump in distance will be too much? I'm in generally great shape, just not super confident about my cycling abilities yet.

>>1016767
Did you feel any discomfort on some part of your body on one of those 15mi rides? If so, look into it and make adjustments on your fit. Other than that nah, it'll be fine, just bring enough water and maybe a little something sweet to it so you don't bonk

>>1016767
stay hydrated and commit to it, I used to bike for fun about 10km daily and once went on a 70km very hilly ride and I was fine

>>1016767

Should be perfectly fine.

One downside of flat courses is that there are(obviously) no downhills to coast down. You should focus on keeping an even, sustainable cadence.

>>1016767
should be fine, the only things to watch out for is that you get enough food/water into you

bring some snack bars an a couple bottles of water and just eat whenever you start to feel tired and you'll be good

>>1016665
They were made to break. And only 1 breaks.

>>1016526
>>1016620
OK then, thanks.

Favorite gloves for rides 2+ hours in temps below 40F/4C? Should I just put gloves over my cycling gloves when it gets too cold?

Does anyone make a fixed/free flip-flop TA hub? I'm building a SSCX bike out of a Brodie Romax SS (http://www.brodiebikes.com/2016/bikes/romax_ss.php) that I also want to be able to use in a potential grass crit series my shop is talking about.

What groupset should I go for if my main concern is durability and comfortable shifters, and cost/weight isn't a concern.

>>1016971
9100

>>1016971
SRAM Force

>>1016971
>durability
>comfortable shifters
>cost no object
Campagnolo. I'm generally a SRAM fan, but if I could afford it I'd be rocking Record/Super Record in no time at all.
Buy any group with UltraShift if you can afford it.

What are some acceptable-tier companies to buy used or vintage bikes and mod the crap out of? I've been looking at some Fuji and Schwinn but I would like some guidance, budget is 70 to maybe 200 bucks, looking for something to start learning the bike stuff, also underage b& here not much height so smaller would be better for my shit balance

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is my saddle too low? do i look retarded? It's supposed to be higher, I know because my legs dont fully extend on the down pedal. But I live in nyc and its stop and go a lot and i want to reach the ground.

>>1017054
just fucking get out of the saddle when you stop fatass

>>1017054
If it's for city riding it's fine. Thats party why city bikes have a low saddle and high bars. You don't need the power that the highest comfortable saddle position gives nor the aero benefit if you're just riding around town.

If it's for sports riding then it's either too low or the frame is too big. You don't want your leg fully extended anyway, good way to get knee and hip pain, it should be slightly bent at the bottom of the downstroke.

I am having an issue with shifting to my smallest chain ring on a triple. If its the first time I'm shifting to the smaller ring on a trip it does it just fine, after that it tends to ride on the middle ring and may or may not shift down to the smaller one. Shifting between middle and largest are totally fine.

I checked my chain and it was at .75. I replaced the chain and the middle chain ring which was a little bent. The new middle ring has slightly fewer teeth, but you guys here said it probably wouldn't matter.

I haven't messed with my brake cables or derailleur cables since I got the bike used a year and a half ago.

I'd like to try one or two more things before giving up and going to the shop.

>>1017167
>people actually using the granny gear 30T chainring

what are you?! a senior?

>>1017192
what are you? a flatlander?

>>1017192
Even if it was a double and it wasn't shifting, I would still be here asking for help. I use the granny on a weekly basis when I have groceries or if I'm going camping. If trouble shooting the system makes it look like I would need to replace the cranks or the FD, I'll consider taking it to a compact double. But if I'm going that far I might want to replace the whole drivetrain and I don't want to think about one part vs the whole system at the moment.

Its sort of like replacing my entire oven because the pilot light went out. It would fix the problem but maybe there is an easier solution.

>>1017199
check your shift cables and the points where they go into and out of the tubing for dirt and stuff, it might be that the cable isn't moving all the way

also, check your lower limit screw isn't too far in

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newfag here, looking for a bike to get to and from work. I bought some $60 cheapo piece of shit about a year back but stopped riding to work simply because it kept breaking down in every way possible. One of the peddles would fall off all the damn time, even after I used silicone to secure the bolt, chain would skip no matter what I did etc.
Looking for a new one since I'm starting to get fat, but I have no idea which brands are worth the money. It's about 10km either way to work, all paved, mostly even ground.

Which brands are generally considered the most reliable? I'm pretty regional so I probably wont even be able to get anything particularly modern, but there's at least one bike store in town. Any help is appreciated.

Also it needs to be able to outrun an Emu.

>>1017223
Kona. The new Tonk looks awesome. Steel frame, long-drop brakes and fat tyres. And the new stealth Sora brifters. If I didn't already have all my bike bases covered, that's what I'd buy.

>>1017251
>long-drop brakes
Why didn't they just use discs?

>>1017255
Because it would mean cutting cost elsewhere and using a less comfortable fork. And make it more gravel and less thicc tyre road bike.
They did have a similar disc model before - the Honky Inc. Apparently it didn't sell very well.

>>1017259
>And make it more gravel and less thicc tyre road bike.

Considering that they're selling it as "endurance road geometry" those are exactly the same thing tbqh.

>>1017223
Brand name on the frame doesn't matter. Brand name on the components does, particularly wheels and drivetrain.. Avoid anything sold by walmart, too.

>Also it needs to be able to outrun an Emu.
That's on your legs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C53Jpy3_ya0

Almost instant zero to 20 kph in long grass. I don't like my odds if an emu decides to get serious.

>>1017251
Kona has some good choices. Fuji also sells in Australia.

Anyone try those chinese carbon rims from light bicycle? I'm tempted to try building a set just to see how they turn out.

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Does my large chainring look ok. It rides perfect, but the teeth look like they are worn compared to my small ring. (I mostly ride big ring)

>>1017317
It's called shifting aid. The teeth are supposed to look like that to allow the chain to climb over. The little ring doesn't have shifting aids because it doesn't need any. It would if it were a triple.

>>1017335
Cool, it has 9,000 miles. I was worried that i would need new rings. I'm tearing it down and cleaning, lubing, straightening everything.

>>1017347
chainrings tend to last longer than cogs, and they can work fine with more wear
unless it stops shifting or skips its fine

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I just bought this for £40, bought the mudguards for £6 at decathlon. I'm a student with no high demands. The seat makes me sore. Could you guys recommend a nice entry level seat for men and a nice helmet please?

Also any comments on it are appreciated, good or bad, anything that will make me learn more about m

>>1017355
Charge spoon. For helmets, go try some on. Pick the best fitting one in your budget.

>>1017359
CHarge spoon? what do you mean? never been her before

>>1017361
Didn't you just ask for an entry level saddle?

>>1017355
Could be worse. Rigid 90's mememachine, but a nice one. Horrible cabling job and probably worn through anyway.
Chainrings look very spiky. Should probably be replaced. Plastic pedals are horrible and get slippy when wet. Get flat pedals from PlanetX or Superstar. Ditch the ugly lock holder.

Expect to sink a bit of money into it to make it a nice-but-not-great bike. Chainrings, cassette, chain, get the hanger ear aligned/checked and redo the cabling. At a minimum.

Seconding Charge Spoon.

>>1017355
Thirding the Spoon. Just soft enough, and the perfect shape. The design is good looking too.

You may or may not like it; everybody's slightly different, and you might be an outlier in terms of fit.

>>1017359
>charge spoon
>recommending a semi-aggressive position road saddle for a new rider on a non-aggressive commuter duty mtb

Keep your memes as answers for posters that don't use the general

So I'm thinking of putting 105 5800 or Athena 11 on my Vitus 979. Assuming the bottom bracket cable guide doesn't bind the shift cable, I don't have to worry about ghost shifting from riding a noodle frame, right?

Any idea if these are any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANTILEVER-BRAKE-SET-SILVER-INC-KOOL-STOP-BRAKE-PADS-BRIDGES-CABLES-ATB-/291905329547?hash=item43f6e9d98b:g:AOkAAOSwBahVDayR

I'm looking to replace my Tektro Oryx because they squeal like a banshee on drugs and don't really offer much breaking performance.

>>1017379

After trying multiple cantis including oryx, my answer is mini v brakes, they are fantastic. $12 a set

If your tires are bigger than 2.0" if suggest going full long pull standard v brakes

>>1017364

Charge spoon and on one pedals... Lol uk

>>1017387
I've heard on several bike forums (I know, I know) that the modulation is shit. I want these for my wife's CX commuter and I don't want her going to the bars for pressing the brake lever like a retard. Will these do?

Best bang for buck headset for a 1 inch threaded? Is the Tange Levin OK?

>>1017394
Tange levin is the best value for money by far, I have one on my bike. the new Campagnolo record one is also good but twice the price. These are the only two I'd consider using right now.

>>1017400
Thanks for reply. Amazon or ebay?

>>1017402
Ended up getting mine from my LBS, got them to fit it since it's the only thing I don't have the tools to do and it feels cheeky bringing in something they sell that you bought elsewhere for them to fit.

I'm in the UK but when I was looking around at different headsets, SJS was the cheapest for the chrome, ebay for the black one.

What kind of saddle would be good for long rides? The one I have now is really rigid and makes me wanna kill myself after 15-20 miles. I also get really painful pinching in the groin after a while too. Do I just replace it with whatever I think will feel comfortable?

>>1017413
Buy bike shorts

>>1017423
Already have em

Hey, I want to take a trip from Wakkanni, Japan, until Kagoshima in about three months. I have an unlimited budget but I'll be mostly staying in camps, and hostels, so I would need to carry my camping equipment with me as I go along.

Anything I should keep in mind while buying a bike for this? Will a recumbent be better for such a long trip? Would using an electric one be worth the money?

>>1017355
WTB Volt saddle. literally any helmet. Specialized makes fine helmets. buy one of those. seriously, they're all pretty much the same outside of discipline-specific items (aero tt, full-face dh, etc.) and MIPS which may or may not be a scam depending on who you talk to.

>>1017413
Adjust your saddle, it shouldn't be putting any pressure on your groin

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Are look bikes any good?

>>1017480
Is X brand any good? It honestly doesn't fucking matter, the components of a bike define it more than the frame. its probably made by Giant anyway.

>>1017524
For the price i mean

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>>1016423
Thanks. It was really easy. I tested it today, and it have not fallen down from the place I installed, so I think it's OK. But I will need to replace the fucked bar by a wash, if I want to use things inside the basket.

>>1017060
He could simply lean the bike when stopped, to put one foot on the ground.

NEW THREAD:
>>1017655
>>1017655
>>1017655
>>1017655
>>1017655
2 wheels, dubs

I currently have a trek 7.3. The chain is rusty and it hasn't seen maintenance in 2 years. Should I just buy a new bike or replace the chain for 100$?

>>1017786
>replace the chain for 100$?

What? Even with labour, LBS+straya markup I only paid $80 or $90 AUD for an 11 speed chain replacement on my bike. In what world will whatever you've got cost 100?

>>1017788
Korea

>>1014719
I know fixie goons that loop their U lock around the seat cluster and over one seat stay, under the other, then lock it. It kind of dangles in in the rear triangle, in the area above the wheel. Generally this makes a terrible noise though.

I know one guy who has the right size heater hose (radiator hose) slipped over the shackle, and it keeps the lock from a) rattling and b) scratching the paint.

Is there a guide for building your own bike? A la logical increments chart for pc building.

>>1018269
>>1017868
>>1017793
>>1017788
>>1017786

See: >>1017656