Fairly new to 3d printing, but I know I'm going to be using whichever I buy quite a bit throughout my industrial design education. Both are decently similar in cost and have great feedback but there are so many things to consider that I can't decide.
I was a Tiko backer so obviously I'm frustrated, amplified because I just recieved the M3D micro a few days ago (pissed at how tiny the print bed is)
The monoprice is built like a tank, and besides all the acrylic so is the tarantula. both are very customizable, but I've heard calibrating the monoprice is frustrating. The tarantula's print bed is much larger, (especially with the upgraded 200x280 bed) but it's a DIY kit which might be a downside considering I've never built a 3d printer before. soo many things to consider.
What do you think would be the better way to go?
>>59374811
I have an MP Select Mini and am pretty happy with it.
Can't say much about other printers since I only use the one I have.
>>59374811
>calibrating the monoprice is frustrating
Technically calibrating the print head itself only matters if you swap out the hot end with an E3D hot end instead. Calibrating the bed height on the MP Select Mini isn't hard at all, you just need to do two passes over each corner segment and figure out the corner heights.
I have a makergear m2 and enjoy it. Works well, very rarely fucks up.
>>59374935
I've also heard that the aluminum bed sags because of lack of support on one side. Have you seen this?
>>59375323
Presently no. I expect you'd mainly see this if you were consistently printing at higher temperatures though. If you don't plan on printing with ABS (>=70C bed temp), I don't see it being a huge issue. Note that I'm assuming that you would be printing using blue painter's tape on top of the aluminum, so as to prevent the hot end from touching the aluminum directly.
If it does start to sag, however, buying a glass plate and a glue stick would be the solution. Assuming you buy a 1mm sheet of glass, you can crank the aluminum bed down by 1mm and clip the glass plate on yourself using small paper clips (I've seen more than a few people take this route). Then just pass the glue stick over the top so the plastic has something to adhere to, and you won't have to worry about the bed warping. In my experience though, I think the bed warping is less likely to be an issue. Most people I've heard who switched to glass beds only did it because they like the way the print looks on the bottom when it prints on glass.
I have heard that the wires that heat up the bed are in a bit of a stupid spot, and after prolonged use (>1 year in most cases) can eventually tear, causing problems. That can obviously be fixed too, since it's just replacing a wire, but it's much more annoying.
Remember when people thought 3d printers would become mainstream, like one in every home?
lol
>>59374811
>>>/diy/
they literally have a rolling general there. and probably there's an archive for them
>>59375759
"Remember when people thought computers would become mainstream, like one in every home"
>>59375861
not an argument lol
>>59375837
must have missed it, but I figured there wouldn't be a thread for advice about these specific two printers.
>>59375861
You fucked up dude. You're supposed to use something that people never thought would be in their homes in the future.
Everyone envisioned a computer in the home eventually.
>tfw home CNC machining didn't become the hot meme instead of 3D printing
>>59376316
or wait, I think I fucked up too.
fuck this shit bed time