/3dpg/ -additive manufacturing general

>>980845

Im trying to use my prusa i3 to print a quadcopter:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:511668

or at least as big as that, the problem is that althought the bed is in ,theory 200x200mm it actually is more like 190x190 but not from the bed itself but the Y belt.

So even if I download the sorter version I still need like those 10 mm in the Y axis to print it.

I thought about taking out a little the rods of the Y axis but that would mean a lot of adjustments later and if I don't do it carefully I might break or deform something.

The other idea I had is to change the Y-belt clamp to one more compact, but I don't know if such thing would actually give me the small extra distance I need.

So... any ideas?

>>980903
i would suggest against printing a quad frame

the first time you'll crash it will disintegrate, and you will crash it since its a 200 sized quad
you'd be better off buying a $15 frame off HK

>>981045

but one of the points of 3d printing is about replication and redundancy, right? I mean, if it breaks I don't have to wait to some chinese sweatshop to make it for me, I could even carry spare parts that extend beyond some screws and batteries...

If I rely on online shops, whats the point then?

And anyway, I'm still losing 10 mm, this can actually be more important than a quadcopter since what is actually happening is that I can print all the designs that assume that I have a commercial-like 3d printer with exactly 200x200mm.

you can print it every time it breaks, but do you really want to print a new frame after each flying session?

also, my i3 does 190x190 as well, but sometimes you can get away with printing a part diagonally or printing the model in halfs and then gluing them back together with CA ( the bond sometimes comes out stronger than the part itself)

>>981051
> model in halfs

I tried this but the program only cuts the model in the Z axis(slic3r), is there any other program that lets me make the cut in any other axis?

>>981053
You can get around that by rotating the model to stand vertically, and then cut on Z axis using slic3r.

>>981054
thats...

...

making me look stupid.

THANKS!

>>980845
Couldn't find this thread, it shoud have "3d printing" somewhere on the OP

>>981465
boards.4chan.org/diy/3dp

>>980845
Is this your picture? Have you figured out what was wrong and do you have any successful prints?

>>981771
Useful when you already know about it

Hey anons, best 3D modeling program to learn that will allow me to model stuff for prosthetic manufacturing but isn't over the top impossible to learn?

A friend told me to try 123D. Good stuff? I don't want to invest hours in learning a program that reinvented the wheel. Basically going to be majoring in med tech at Uni so before I go back as a "freshman" I want to start picking up skills for this now.

Thanks in advance. Currently looking to buy the B9 Creator or a DeltaWASP. Need precision above all else, but build volume as the next biggest thing. Might just go with the B9 and make the frame for the prothesis out of aluminum.

>http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351571656744
>I have no idea what I'm doing

>>982083
blender

>>982086
Im confused

>>982083
blender for curvy bits, solidworks for moving bits

>>982092
it's assembled wrong

>>982095
But how is it supposed to be assembled?
Are you really supposed to attach the heat brake to the nozzle with just 1 or 2 threads with that thin nut?

>>982101
Tube with thread is in the wrong hole. It is supposed to go through threaded hole on heater block. It meets with the nozzle on the middle of the heater block, I guess. You secure it against the block with one nut and the other nut is for securing it to cold end, I guess.
I have no Idea what Hex key is for.

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>>982056
>when you already know about it
If you don't know about a thread existing, you're probably going to find it in the catalog. The catalog also has a search function specifically for this - which shows the thread as a result...

http://boards.4chan.org/diy/3dprinting

I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. That your browser's builtin search function doesn't find the OP...?

>>982118
3dprinting=/=3d printing
Are you retarded or something?

>>982107
Hex key is going to be for a set screw to keep the heater cartridge into the block.

>>982121
Are you trying to play Devil's Advocate or something? AFAIK multiple search terms aren't supported if you input them directly to the address bar; they work in the Catalog Search and a non-spaced word works in the address search, so what is your problem?

I just got some prusa with hotbed, will assemble it with my brother on sunday :)

>>982136
Nice. Model name/pic/link? Sounds like a fun weekend project.

>>982151
You may see it as a bit expensive, it's some young Spanish brand with great support and such. pack comes with 2kg of filament (picked white ABS and PLA) and some spray.
https://www.leon-3d.es/producto/pack-2-legio-3d/

>>982153
>>982136
Take your time and put it together as accurately and as squarely as possible. It will make things down the road so much better.

You can slap it together and it will lay plastic, but it will be a nightmare down the line when doing fine tuning.
Accuracy is key

>>982183
Thanks, I'm a perfectionist, so it shouldn't be an issue.

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>>981896
That was my first run with bronzefill filament. The material is a bit trickier to print than PLA and ABS, but I got quite nice prints after changing the nozzle to a hardened steel one(the brass one got fucked while printing carbonfill). Also the calibration was a bit off.

>>982211
how heavy is it?

>>982212
80% bronze
20% PLA
It is heavy compared to other materials. Polishing the surface gives a metal looking shine, but I haven't really found anything useful appliances for this stuff as I mainly deal with prototyping and PLA/ABS/NYLON is the way to go there if you are going cheap and use FDM.

>>982219
Damn, I guess you need a steel nozzle for that much bronze, where did you get it?

>>982212
I must add that I recommend testing the carbonfill filament if you have a stainless/hardened nozzle.

>>982222
I shoul get a steel one for those exotic materials, what results do you get?

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>>982221
http://e3d-online.com/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle
The left is what happens when one prints abrasive materials with a brass nozzle. I bought mine from e3d, but there might be american alternatives also.

>>982225
Some people say that the steel nozzles behave differently (heat spreading and emission) but I've just changed to using the hardened one all the time and I haven't seen any negative sides yet. At least these hole diameters are closer to the promised value than in the chinkshit I used before.

>>982229
Nice, thanks, I'll have to check if the diameters and lengths are the same, so I can change them without recalibration.

What about the carbonfill, how different is it from PLA or ABS?

>>982232
> I can change them without recalibration.
Just calibrate it. That should be done in 3 minutes, unless you have as retarded z-endstop positioning as I do.

Carbonfill prints surprisingly well and it is very stiff. Sticks too well to the glass so remember to use glue so you don't have to break the glass in order to remove the print.

>>982236
Thanks, how resistant is it?

>>982227
Filsastruder is the American reseller of E3D stuff

>>980845
>>982211
>>982229
Damn, I thought that was chocolate.

Does the steel nozzle give less detailed prints with "regular" materials?

>>982237
It is tougher than other printing materials you've seen.

>>982245
>Does the steel nozzle give less detailed prints with "regular" materials?
I haven't noticed any difference. It gives better prints than my old chinese nozzle. The overall print quality is almost on par with the Ultimaker 2+, but I'm going way slower.

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>>980845
Peachy Printer Don't Buy Edition?

>>982410
What on Earth is that?

>>982474
The Peachy Printer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6T81zxlHgY

>>982410
I'd rather get that than a XYZjewing

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>>982410
I can second that.
I'm not a big fan of the OLO as well, but at least their prints don't look that shitty.

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>>982410
It should be the
"the Tiko STILL hasnt shipped, and is STILL having quality control problems on tons of parts. Cant successfully build 100 test machines, even though they have to ship out over 16,000 production machines" edition.

Tiko right now

Has anyone used buildTak print surface? How many prints does it last for?

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Post good tools for STL manipulation please.
I got a hollow modell and want to push the hole you see all the way trough without having to completely remesh the entire model.
Also something that can close the tiny gaps you see in the picture would be nice.

>>982410
Jesus, that thing looks like a stiff breeze would disintegrate it.

Anyone know a good rule of thumb ratio for acetone to ABS to make print bed coating?

Have a precision scale if need be, but can't seem to find much info outside of 'dont do too much or too little'.

Thinking about swapping to a glass bed and using that. Currently using a gluestick, which works, but getting the glue residue off the print is sometimes hopeless. And sometimes the corners still lift up on larger parts.

>>983033
Import into freecad
Convert to solid
Make cylinder of same size
Boolean cut

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Guys this is what happens when you use a top-mount sit-on spool holder and you are near the end of the spool

Jesus the ground plasticey bits flew into my face when I blew out the cold end

>>983405
Maybe try one of those water-soluble gluesticks? I just wash my prints, no problem.

>>983405
I used to have my acetone and abs mix premade, but then I just started pouring a little acetone on the bed and rubbing in a solid piece of abs, something flat. Just a little bit comes off, like soap. Works great for me, just be sure the acetone evaporates before heating the bed.

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>>983033
>>983469
I actually got what I wanted with multiple intersecting models. Any FDM-slicer would probably shit itself trying to slice this but creation workshop suprisingly was fine with it.

>>983470
>a top-mount sit-on spool holder
a what?

>>983471
Well its washable elmers purple ones, for the most part it washes off. Its just some gets stuck in the ridges depending on the model.

>>983474
Glass or non-glass bed? I've not installed the glass one yet. Bit worried I'll fuck it up and send the hotend into the glass if the offset doesn't work right.

>>982410
Is.... is that fucking muscle wire?

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>>982136 >>982153 here, I guess I could post the finished printer, took about 5 hours, later today we'll calibrate it and all that buzz.

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>>983957

should i buy a m3d or build a reprap?

I am new to 3d printing, but have experience as a manual machinist and a cnc operator and programmer.

Mostly looking for a toy, and maybe print a few bits for my 40k spess muhreens.

>>984004
I'd build one, there's a lot of cheap kits you can upgrade over time if you want to, and it's very fun to build.

I've ordered a TAZ and some accesories 1½ weeks ago, which were supposed to be sent with the same postal company in two seperate parcels.

I've received the accesories parcel, but the 3D printer parcel itself is completely untrackable and the postal company basically doesn't acknowledge the existance of the parcel.

I've tried calling two times and the guy in the sales dept. keeps saying he'll look into it. He's a cool guy and I'm sure it's not his fault, but how do I speed up the process of receiving the parcel without being rude and demanding to the sales guy (which probably wouldn't speed up this process either)?

I don't want to be the annoying customer, but I sure don't want to wait ages to receive it.

>>983940
no.

>>984004

i'm debating that aswell, but i'd say build because it looks way more fun. Gonna go check the local e-waste management plants on my city tomorrow and go looking for a decent source of stepper motors, been thinking for a while that I want to fuck around this whole new area, and thought it was about time after coming across the work of a a guy who is doing printers for schools. (thing:1429273 on thingiverse) want to adapt it to have a smaller footprint tho.

What acceleration settings are you guys using? My i3 is at the default, and it works fine, but sometimes it seems like its going to shake the house apart.

Also, a print just stopped about 3/4 of the way through for some reason. Wasn't watching it at the time, but it seemed like the head had actually descended and melted its way into the print after it stopped. Any idea as to why this happened?

>>984379
I have an i3 too, and what seemed to help best is lowering my XY jerk down to 10. I still run my acceleration at the default of 3000 though and done seem to have any problems. The default jerk of 15mm/s seems to be high.
As for the print failing, are you printing over USB? If so, check your cable--when I first started printing some of my prints would abort and stop mid-print. Switching to a USB cable that had the ferrite filters/chokes on either end fixed the problem. I had forgotten about this problem until I switched to printing exclusively with a RPi and OctoPrint until it again aborted prints. Then I remembered and switched out the USB cable, and problem gone.
I doubt that the print head actually lowered after aborting the print; maybe the glob of filament you see is from oozing plastic that built up?

>>984392
I was printing from the SD card, which is the weird thing. Nothing on the display either, which is also odd, because the one time that a motor overheated it clearly stated that until I pulled the plug. And you're probably right about the head being stuck. Upon further review it looks like it just melted the surrounding plastic with the ambient heat and further extrusion.

>>984396
Check your connections, maybe it lost power for a second

>>984396
Maybe it had something to do with the hysteresis or thermal protection values in firmware--are your bed or hotend exposed to air currents? There may have been some temperature fluctuations that Marlin interpreted as a potentially dangerous malfunction and forced a shutdown.
Also, you could check to see if you have endstops disabled during printing. When I first began printing I didn't have the disabled during printing and would occasionally bump an endstop causing a print to abort.

>>984704
Dont think it was either of those. The printer is in a room about the size of a walk in closet with no air vents, and the part isn't big enough for the carriage to go anywhere near the endstops. It just died right in the middle of the thing. Very odd.

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Just printed these with my XYZ Da Vinci Pro yesterday using the XYZ ABS filament. I wanted to use up the current filament roll so I could get another and print something big.

They came out pretty well though it Lenin wasn't adhering so well to the bed. I probably need to replace the tape or relevel the bed (in order to relevel the bed I need to clean off that sensor thing with rubbing alcohol).

Anyways, so what non-PLA filament should I get next?

>>984805
>XYZ anything
>printing communist garbage
Get your shit together, pal.

>>984805
I sincerely hope you printed those out only so you could melt them back down.

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>>984901
I actually need to find an Engels and a Marx .stl so any help would be appreciated

>>984805
>Commie goons
>proprietary filament
It's like pottery

>>984805
>so what non-PLA filament should I get next?
>XYZ

Guys, guys, I don't think he knows.

>>985140
its an XYZ Da Vinci PRO which can use third party filaments with the addition of a filament spool holder

Thinking about getting a Rostock Max. Anyone have one? If so what do you think?

I also wanted to get some replacement parts so it can run for half a year to a year of frequent use. What parts might need replacement? Also, what are some recommended upgrades?

>>985251
I do and I recommend it if you plan on investing long term. if your more the fly by night hobby type then I would go with the usual i3. I wanted to go all in and the rmax was my first. it takes a while to really get it dialed in, especially if your the perfectionist type. ask any questions you want

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Trying to print pic related, from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:850180
Let's see how Simplify supports work

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>>985782
Tested the tip wihout any supports, came out fine.
Piece is about 70mm tall.

About 12 hours into printing a wearable ODST helmet. Probably another 30 to go, at least. Not counting the sanding, welding and spraypainting, plus forming lexan for the lens. Thank christ Im getting payed for this.

>>985791
Two halves? Sounds like a huge thing.

>>985797
Its enormous. And because of many things, from the general low quality of my machine to the fact that we lose power here all the time, I have it split into about 16 pieces to minimize failures. On the plus side, it took an actual 7.62 round to break a failed piece, so it should be a great paintball helmet.

>>985799
ABS, I guess, how much infill?

>>985806
25%. Layer height is at .15 for most of it. The UNSC apparently loves tiny little overhangs. Relatively thin plate contact area, so I gotta leave the bed on the whole time to prevent warping, and sometimes use the raft final solution so it doesn't lose adhesion.

>>985809
Make sure to post some pics when it's finished, I'm intrigued now.

>>985810
Its gonna be a while. Leaving for a week, then its back to 12 hour print days. I hear stepper motors and flexing acrylic in my dreams. Then Ill have to clean everything up, weld the pieces together, maybe see if I can sink in some steel pins and rare earth magnets for taking it on and off. Then Ill hand it off to my buddy who's real good with the Lexan to do the visor.

>>985813
Wow, what a project, I bet some blogs notice it.

>>985838
Eh, lots of people make Halo helmets. Wont stand out too much.

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Welp, I'm sure I'll break some parts by taking out the supports, but it's my first print :)

Anyone here worked with the GP3D root? I work at an electronics store that sells 3d printers, and that is the only model that pays any commission, so I want to know more about it to try and make literally any money

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>>985782
>>985788
>>985885
Messed up the scale and made it about 25% smaller than intended so it lost detail and became fragile. I also used too much support, so I ended up breaking a couple legs, fixed them with cyanoacrylate, not too bad for my very first print!

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>>986387

>>985813
Bruh, are you me?

I've been building I3s for my company on my printer nonstop and I've broken 1000 printing hours in 2 months. Print during the day the small stuff, and print 12 hour parts overnight.

Alright guys, talk to me about PMMA. How good is it its bridging? Fan or no fan?

>>986651
I cant do overnights, because my printer is occupying a large portion of my desk and the incessant noise would make it impossible to sleep. The sound of silence when its finally done for the day is so sweet.

>>987292
Plus, ABS fumes are mildly toxic as well.

>>987352
That could explain my degrading sense of touch...

Well /diy/ my printer's heating block shit the bed and the replacement doesnt work. I'd love my printer if its USA support wasnt such SHIT

>>987354
I've heard good things about E3D.

>>987361
Its an Up Plus 2. Great printer and super easy to work with, but holy fuck if you live in the states, NEVER buy one. There is zero support here. I had to pay $10 to make an international call to the Australian HQ

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>>984022
wait a couple more days and call again? I've had untrackable packages before (received most of em), but bottom line is that you paid money for something you didn't receive, and you can bother em until you get what you ordered.

I'm like you--don't like to annoy people that much, especially people where it isn't their fault, but you do want what you ordered. Unless you really /need/ the printer ASAP, I'd just consistently call em every couple of days.

Good luck.

>>985885
>>986387
>>986392
very nice!

>>987547
Sellers have started printing off labels to get tracking numbers for packages they haven't shipped yet. Amazon, PayPal etc have gotten so bad they don't really care. If you make a stink they'll give you your money back but no one else sells what you want to buy.

It's out of stock and they don't want to tell op because it's going to be another month or something.

>>987548
Thanks, I'm seeing how to extract models with poses with 3D Ripper DX.

Might help if I ask here but would anyone here know the cause for
>>>/3/521486
>>>/3/521487
Its my first time modeling something for myself and kinda disappointed it wont load into cura properly.

>>987862
What program did you use for modeling? My guess is that is not manifold. look at this:
http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/repairing-models
http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/fixing-non-manifold-models
http://www.instructables.com/id/Non-manifolds-Your-Worst-3D-Printing-Nightmare/?ALLSTEPS

>>987862
Open it in Netfabb
Auto fix
...
Profit

I think you got some flipped normals.

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I am sure some of You have upgraded to E3D v6. How is it? Did you have any problems? I am looking for 24V Bowden 3mm. Have anybody tried stainless steel or hardened nozzle?

For those who are from EU: Did you buy it directly from E3D or did you buy it from some other store where it might me cheaper or with free shipping or something?

>>988037
i have Lite 6. works ok the fan is rubbish though. Using their standard brass nozzle and they are very good quality. Bough directly from them . Got a small pack of haribo's every time I bought something from them.

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Hey /diy/ I have a shitty old fishing line printrbot and I'm trying to upgrade it to a timing belt.However, the only way to do so that I've found is with 3D printed parts. Any advice on keeping the fishing line taunt and unfrayed long enough to print.

>>987986
>>988032
Gonna get crucified but I used sketchup because it the only program I have any knowledge in. Tried doing repairs in nettfab and it seems to fuck up the whole model. Thinking I might be getting this issue because of wall thickness.

>>988060
>tfw I pirated sketchup despite being a student and thus getting free Autodesk everything and now learning to CAD for realsies is way harder than it needs to be

>>988037
I have run a full E3D V6 for over a year now. Im still using the stock .4 nozzle on it. Been working perfectly fine.
Though it is a 12v and it is 1.75.

Ive had no problems with it. I have heard people who didnt follow the "preheat the block before torquing the nozzle" instructions where it would leak and burn filament on the outside of the nozzle.

I had an issue where I had forgot to reinstall my cooling fan (active cooling is a must with full metal e3d). The heat creeped up the hotend, got so hot it melted my bowden mount on the carriage (was PLA)

Honestly, I would have been perfectly happy with the Lite 6 as I only do PLA and light ABS but it didnt exist at the time when I bought it.
Still a great hotend

>>988050
What exactly is wrong?
Do you not want to buy new fishing line and trying to use old stuff, or are you having other issues with the line?

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>>988050
also I think the rack upgrade is pretty sweet

>>988166
noice

>>988050
>all that mass on the Y(?)-carriage
Are cantilever printers actually any good? They're among the minority, from what I've seen, but PrintrBot likes to use them a lot apparently.

>>988189
Honestly, from what I have seen its just a design choice because of raw materials.
The PrintrBot was built to be cheap, it was in the 250$ range when I3 kits were still 500$.

Then the obvious progression they started upgrading the wooden printer raising the price up for those kits, and realized they had a market for a higher end metal one. So the Simple Metal is just an evolution of the wood one but they couldnt change it up too much.

When you are in the 5-600 dollar range, you are better off with a different printer design. Which is why Printrbot was the only one who did them, and is also moving away from them at the same time

>>985791
you should make a cast or mold of that shit and sell them. People will eat that shit up. You know there's a market as you're already being paid. Just gotta tap into that market somehow.

>>988216
Ide buy one

>>988050
What exactly is the problem with fishing line? If it is sliding on a pulley, then you have to ether increase number of loops around pulley or increase tension force. If it is not sliding on pulley, then there shouldn't be much wear of fishing line.

Link related: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capstan_equation

actually I was thinking about making my own sort of scrap-rap 3d printer. I wanted to use fishing line (or metal wire) for cheap replacement for belts (core x-y style). So if you have any other information about problems with fishing line, please respond.

>>988361
They are wrapped around a dremel sanding drum to drive it. It was a bad design, but it was cheap.

>>988364
There on picture it looked like some plastic pulley: >>988050

Can you remove sanding drum, and wrap it directly around motor shaft? 3 or 4 loops around the shaft and tension force 0.5 to 1N (50 to 100g) should give you enough friction. But you have to change steps/mm in firmware.

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>>988364

>>988365
im not sure what the later models came with, I am also not the guy who is upgrading his printer. I just built one of these with a friend a couple years ago and it had the drum.

>>988364
>cheap
I get the appeal, but honestly, cheap printers will suck all the fun out of 3DP. I got the PrintrBot LC as a christmas gift, and I was super excited to start printing; building it was kind of a pain in the ass, because nobody had a full build guide. The ones I did find were pretty shit, and usually there was a line about how "Oh, I forgot to do this one thing, you have to disassemble half the printer to fit it in though". Calibrating it was a nightmare as well, and when I got super-shitty prints after weeks of tinkering with it, I just got fed up and stopped using it.

Then, I got an i3 (from Prusa himself), and in the span of a week, I HAPPILY printed more stuff with it than I did with the PrintrBot in its whole usage period.

Anyone have opinions on the upcoming glowforge laser cutter?

>>988534
>glowforge laser cutter?

For $2500, I can buy a more powerful chinese one on alibaba

>>988553
Do you hate small business anon?

>>988554
I hate crowdfunding and have absolutely no faith in it at all.
I dont hate small business either, but dollar for dollar you have to decide if you are going to pay for pure power and functionality or you are going to pay for a nice looking case with built in cameras and some ultra user friendly GUI.

Its not marketed to me, its marketed to the Etsy crowd who had never thought of buying a laser cutter.

Quick question: I have some warping with ABS, so I will try ABS slurry/juice. Should I apply it on cold bed, and then heat it up or should I preheat the bed and then apply ABS juice?

>>988851
Lay it on cold
In my experience, depending on how much you put on, it'll bubble up on a hot bed

>>988868
Thanks. I did lay it down on cold bed, but I guess I didn't wait long enough, so it made some little bubbles here and there when I heated it up. But it was good anyway. No warpage and it was easy to remove (bubbles might have helped).

>>988216
Ill have to look into that. I know that I'd be able to sell a bunch up here, as I live in a university town that thrives off impulse purchases. Fallout helmets would go like hotcakes.

Only problem is I have zero experience casting resin.

Im a gigantic fucking idiot and installed windows 10. Cura refuses to slice now. Just says that it will take 0 minutes to finish. Wat do?

>>989488
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/going-back-to-windows-7-or-windows-81

>>988165
bought it used for half the new price, fishing line wore out and I can't find the new stuff for a decent price. I want to print out the rack upgrade but I'm having issues keeping the knots taught enough for decent quality prints.

Somethings all fucked up. Machine heats up to the right temperatures, but instead of saying "Printing..." like usual, it just has the file name, and a slowly ticking timer, and zero movement aside from that.

Does anyone have experience with a .8mm nozzle? I am tempted to buy one to get quicker prints, as I am stuck with a .2mm nozzle right now.

Me and my buddy were thinking about getting a prusa i3 kit to play with.
I don't mind tinkering to get good results, in fact, I prefer having the ability to tinker and it be more open. I've got a background in electronics and machining.

Any recommendations on a good kit that isn't total shit out of the box?
Got roughly $500 usd.
I don't mind getting upgrades, just need a good platform to start off with.

>>989871
Honestly, I'd recommend Josef Prusa's i3. He's the one who developed that model, and while is ~$100 more expensive, I'd consider it a solid investment. I've had zero problems with it so far and it works flawlessly once you have it set up.

>>989864
That's a huge difference, maybe a 0.5?

>>989871
https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit
Upgrading to a e3d extruder and openslot rails will make this about $150 more expensive but as good as a printer of this caliber gets, though neither change should be necessary

Is it possible to use grayscale as a method of extrusion?

I would think it possible in some program out there if you prep a sketch, as long as you only want something simple.

>>989921
You mean using grayscale pictures as a heightmap for a model? Since in that case you could just use it as an actual heightmap, turn it into a 3D model, then print that model

>>989925
Basically if I were to draw say an icon in photoshop and shade it. Then using the shading have it extrude based on gray level.

For example if I shaded a circle dark at the edges and light at the middle it would produce a half sphere. I would imagine there may be something out there to do this maybe crossing into the realm of routing a bit if nothing else.

>>989928
You just use it as a heightmap to turn it into a 3D model. Whatever modeling program you use, Blender, Max or such, google "[program name] how to make heightmap", then use your drawing. It will turn the picture into a 3D model that looks like what you want it to look like (might need a few adjustments though), then you print that model as you would any normal 3D model. There are also some scripts that turn the picture into a 3D model directly, never used them though. But yeah, what you want to do is called a heightmap, so search for that.

>>989879
Filastruder doesn't sell .5mm nozzles, and I would rather not pay for shipping/wait to order straight from E3D.

>>989921

You can import jpg directly into Cura, and it'll convert it to a grayscale file. From there you're prompted with some settings, like what you'd like to be high and low heights.

But I'd only recommend it to very specific things, like a phisical data graph of a very high resolution image for a lithophane

>>989935

>physical graph or pic for lithophane

Sry

>>989864
Be careful with your layer times and add a layer timer if your part doesn't cool down fast enough.

>>989932
Cool thanks. Still learning the programs, bit new still. Was recommended Solidworks in another thread so I'm sure it could do it.

>>989935
I'll check into that thank you. Just after simple stuff nothing complex Just a little wall art and I intend to simplify anything with some smoothing beforehand.

>>989876
Thanks. I'm really considering one of those now.

It's a little more than I want as far as initial cost, but it looks well supported and kinda eliminates a lot of the other problems i would have to upgrade on other models.

Plus it looks cool.

>>989897
I've actually heard quite a few people complain about those in the machining department where I go to school. No idea if their complaints are valid, they very well could just be retarded.

>>989864
I've used every nozzle size from .2 to 1.2mm on the volcano

From my experience, smaller nozzles look a lot better, but tend to jam and take forever. In addition, the pressure is just so high the .2 will destroy themselves after only a few prints. The smallest nozzle I use on a regular basis is a .3 because they last fairly long and are better than .4s in terms of quality.

.8 and above have another problem: the filament laid down gets in the way of the nozzle, and the nozzle cant "cut through it" fast enough, and the carriage gets knocked out of place, resulting in skipped layers. they are good for big square parts, but butcher curves.

My go-to nozzle size is 0.6mm it doesn't fail parts like the .8s, and still fulfill my millennial need for instant gratification.

>>990235

If I got it right, you need to decrease your flow with the bigger nozzles. I had the same problem with a smartrap: the nozzle would print a higher than expected layer and at some point the increase in height from the stepper couldn't keep up with it. So the nozzle dragging would cause the head to miss steps and skip the layer a few cm off

>>990393
I'll try it.

>>990235
If you have a printer with 2 heads, does software allow one to print the detail and the other to infill?

>>990235
I was looking at those. Will invest in a genuine .6mm nozzle then. I have had too many jams with my .2mm nozzle, and I am not interested in detail as I am not picasso, just a humble engineer trying to test out parts.

>>990489
Not that I have found.

Since layer heights must be the same, you need to drop the layer height of the larger one down to <.1, so you just defeated the purpose entirely.

I hate to ask as far into this as I am already, but do I need to design my parts using a hollowing option in the design program like Solidworks or will a slicer hollow out the part a bit to save on material and time on its own?

I feel really bad asking that, but I've only printed small things where I wouldn't have noticed the difference. But I have no designed an assembly with several parts that gets rather large. I thought that is what the Infill setting does, but I'm not entirely sure.

>>991299
Depends.
For FDM you don't need to since infill density is set in the slicer.
For SLA it makes sense, but can also be done after you exported your stl-file.

>>990489
I have achieved this on some models, the Flashforge Creator 2 (dual) and Makerbot Replicator 2X which it is based on, using stock and custom firmware

If you are creating your gcode with slic3r ,replicatorg, many of the python software, it is relatively simple to do or at least quickly add the necessary tool changes.

As long as your machine calibrates head positions in hardware or firmware this is not a difficult edit to make to your file
(1/2)

>>991306
(2/2)
usually in your g-code generator you could put in some manual code at certain points, e.g. when entering infill and support and bridges and exfil and perimeter..."gcode verbosity" or "custom gcode" in the options panel...

I know in slic3r + replicatorg (for editing) I was able to do it with only a couple find-replace in the file, then send directly to the printer, even with stock firmwares it would work alright

>>990198
>I've actually heard quite a few people complain about those in the machining department where I go to school.

Probably complaining about the acrylic folgertechs, which are hugely popular. Acrylic isnt the best choice for a printer.

http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/3d-printer-kits/pegasus-8-kit.html

Is that worth it with a e3d-v6 upgrade
and metal motor mount upgrades?

I was going to get a original prusa i3, but its more than $700 after shipping

>>991324
DESU, the original prusa i3 is not worth the money. Many reworks have substantial improvements and part selections over the original.

I personally own an i3 rework by Roaddog Labs I got for $350 and a bit. Since then, I've upgraded with a P3Steel frame and e3d v6. It is more of a barebones/exposed kit (no PSU mounting, electronics box, filament holder) but I'm still satisfied with it.

>>991327
Yeah I'm leaning more towards the pegasus or something now, the more I think about it.
I can sometimes get scrap aluminum extrusion at work, so I could have a chance at building off of it in the future.

I really want something to learn 3d printing on, but also want something to tinker with and make better/ more awesome.

I'm sure a lot of the kits out there are fine, I just want to get something more sturdy for my piece of mind really.
I don't mind doing the psu mounting, electronics enclosures, holders myself... It would be fun.

I'll give a few more days to look around and pull the trigger on one this weekend.

>>991303
Not familiar with FDM. My files are STL. So I should do it in slicer with infill or using a shell tool to hollow it would be better?

Sorry just getting ready for my first major design.

>>991324
It comes with an E3D lite 6 on it already, no need to move to an all metal.
Its a pretty good kit, and Makerfarm is a really good company in terms of support.

>>991337
FDM is the method of printing whereby a nozzle scoots around your print bed, squeezing out a little snail trail of plastic as it goes.

Why do 3D printers use belts to drive the arms instead of a screw thread?

>>991467
Price and convince

Cheap threads can give you lots of slop and can wear down over time. Or at least on cnc machines, im assuming 3d printers would have it too, just not on the same scale.

You could totally do a printer with some nice threaded rods or the like, nothing stopping you.

>>991445
FDM and SLA are two of many printing methods.
STL is a file format. If you wanna know what is what you can google them if you ad 3d printing to your search term.

>>991477
Would threaded rod be more accurate and require less calibration?

>>991528
Potentially more precise, if you get the good stuff. Hardware store threaded rod might be way out of spec. I can't imagine how it would need a different amount of calibration, though.

>>991528
It's loud as fuck, and for 3d printing purposes the gt2 belts are way more than accurate enough.
It's not really a popular mod

>>991493
Oh I knew what they were, but the context confused me. Had me thinking FDM was a format since it got compared to STL.

Going to try a 1/3rd scale of my design to start though just to make sure it all works. Its about a 14-15 part print so shits gonna be awhile. Maybe I should stop being cheap and get Simplifiy 3D, but so far Slic3r works okay.

>>991528
only if they're strait. Good quality strait threaded rods can be expensive. Also I suspect for X/Y axis the rods because they need to lay horizontally it may sag or bend naturally over time. Not 100% sure on that though.

>>991685
I was compareing FDM and SLA. STL-files can be used for both processes.
I cant recomend Simplify. I got it and still end up using Slic3r most of the time
And for your original question. No you dont need to holow your modells. The infill percentage option in both Slicers mentioned is ment for that.

>>991730
Oh sorry I just read it wrong then. Well that saves me 140 bucks then because I find Slic3r to be great, but a lot seemed to praise Simplify.

And thank you I thought that is what Infill did, but with a big print coming up I was having my doubts. I like learning for myself, but it tends to leave gaps in the knowledge.

THIS IS THE END PEACHY PRINTER DEAD

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wy3zA3LxG4

>>991745
It's over

www.peachyprinter.com

gg no re

File: Snapchat-1905914837903966646.jpg (48KB, 640x1139px) Image search: [Google]

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>>984877
>Not making candles in order to make the house smell like Revolution Rose

>>991745
>a house kills peachy printer.

This is why you need to watch your business partners.

>>991467
>>991477
Somehow I think you meant to talk about lewdscrew drive not a threaded rod. Leadscrews are really expensive but they can be better than belts

>>991745
a thousand keks

>>991758
Leadscrews are great.... if they are machined well and have appropriate matching taps.
They're great but you really have to design around them.
They're great, but it's kinda overkill.

Using cheap threaded rods, or cheap leadscrews won't have as tight a fit.

>lewdscrew
Okay. That made me laugh.

>>991745
Wow!

I actually believed in Ryan. I was wrong.

>>991779
From what I can dig up, Rylan didn't screw up; Dave embezzled the money to speed up the renovations to his house, and intended to Morgage it to reclaim the money, but shit hit the fan and none of the money was reclaimed.

I really respect Rylan for having the balls to do damage control instead of just disappearing.

>>991745
>that grave tone and black background

>peachy dead
The only thing that surprises me, is how long it took them to crash and burn. They held out longer that I thought they would.

Hell they say on the site that they were gonna Have to redesign it to meet laser classification laws. It was fucked from the beginning

Now just waiting for the Tiko shitstorm. They seemingly will never ship, and if somehow they do it will be a printer that barely works. It will be glorious

Have to wonder if PayPal knew about peachy, they did literally just update their crowd funding policies.

>>991801
I don't get it. Why can't they get the money back out of the house? Either mortgage or sell the thing.

>>991862
Because it was a scam from the beginning

>>991745
Why are people so fucking stupid?
Ignore all the embezzled money and shit, look at his fucking graphs for how he spent the rest of it, 70% on fucking expenses and shit? Not even 5% on materials?
Then he says we took a pay cut and moved to a smaller premises? He should have done that from the fucking start! If he isn't turning a profit you don't pay yourself with investors money.
What the fuck does he need a commercial premises for don't his parents have a fucking garage?????
Jesus fuck get some turnover before you blow your investments

>>991876
>If he isn't turning a profit you don't pay yourself with investors money.
It is normal that startups aren't making enough profit to finance their operation (which includes salaries) during the first 2-3 years and that investor money is used to cover that phase. Also, it isn't surprising that a company revolving around r&d spends relatively little on materials.

>>991808
Lol. Their website is the same.
I wonder if this actually changed anything except hastened the failure.

>>991745
Did anyone here back peachy?

>>991940
Why would anyone put money in kickstarter?

http://www.bbc.com/news/technology-36271249

>>991940
I did, then I realized what I'd done and got a refund after a couple of days.

The table my printer is on shakes when it's running. I'm wondering would that increase or decrease accuracy of prints? Intuition tells me you want to lock down your printer as much as possible so it doesn't move for maximum accuracy but on the other hand the table is acting as a shock absorber for the print head as it zooms across the printer. I'm puzzled.

>>992081
that would, invariably, decrease the accuracy of your prints.

>>992081
Kinda
I have an i3 and originally used really weak springs holding the build plate on.

When I mounted the printer on a very solid table using clamps, I noticed the build plate at high speeds was moving around a lot making prints fail.
So in essence the TV tray I was originally using did in fact absorb the forces better.

With that said once I correctly locked down my y axis and upgraded making the whole printer rigid, being locked to a solid desk made an absolute improvement. It's why rigidity in your printer is so vital, if not you are stuck at really low speeds

>>991922
The category for r and d was about the same size as the materials category.
He said him and his brother took a pay cut to keep it going. If you aren't turning over profit it's pretty stupid to pay yourself more than the minimum you need to live on. I just think its dishonest.

File: tiko bowden flare.jpg (35KB, 639x300px) Image search: [Google]

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All this peachy talk made me go check up on the Tiko
They are having issues with the bowden tubes popping out and posted this pic.

They really did cheap the fuck out, they are flaring the fucking tubing instead of using couplers

Also I really like how their extruder literally crushes and deforms the filament.
This thing is held together with band aids and bubble gum

Anyone ever change the 3M blue sheet on a Creator Pro?

Was going glass bed on it, but I have to get that off first. I've heard if you preheat the bed it peals off easily, but that also seems like a good way to end up burned.

>>992144
aren't they trying to patent their extruder or hot end?

>>992232
I really feel like I should build a unibody printer with just a printed frame and LM10UUOPs. It wouldn't last 20 minutes, but I really just want them to know I am using their idea to get them to move faster.

>>992232
>hot end

READ THE ORIGINAL PATENTS, ITS ACTUALLY CALLED A LIQUIFIER

I thought they were trying to patent some sort of rail system, but nonetheless they bragged about their army of lawyers on one hand, while utilizing open source designs on the other.

>>992199
You arent going to get burnt, its hot but not dangerously hot as long as you dont preheat it to something stupid hot

If you are real scared, use a hair dryer

So I just tried out Simplify3d slicer and it's really good. The tool paths it makes seem to be very good, better than cura or slic3r for the short time I've used it.
It apparently does support generation better than any other slicer but I haven't tried it yet.

It's worth trying it
>google "simplify3d 3.0.2 reddit" and you may just find a direct zippy link

>>992143
You mean r&d tools? That's a rather different matter.

At $0.6M funding (haha) it isn't that unreasonable that even the CEO makes more than a burger flipper at nearby McDonalds. And even if it is, expecting the other employees to be happy with minimum wage is silly.

Well, it looks like they had more fundamental problems than just money. I don't know if full budget (and slave work) would have allowed them to finally deliver, but it certainly looks like the original $50k plan was doomed to fail from the very beginning.

>>991685
You can get simplify for free, you know, for testing purposes...

>>992301
What was he renting a building for doesn't he have a garage?

>>980845

If I wanted to get into making my own drones what plastics would I want? PLA, ABS, Nylon, and carbon?

Ill probably be making the frame from some light metal with the printed parts connecting them.

>>992554

Also anyone recommend the difference between a cube of triangular prism style printer? The prism seems lighter and faster which I assume is good for printer and laser.

>>992555
cartesian printers have uniform resolution, while delta robot printers have higher resolution in the middle and lower resolution toward the edges of the print volume. Delta robot printers generally have taller printable volumes, but there's not really a reason a cartesian printer couldn't print something tall.

>>992558
>delta robot printers have higher resolution in the middle and lower resolution toward the edges of the print volume
whoops, got this exactly opposite of correct. The center is lowest-res in the x-y plane.

>>992560
>>992558
Those theoretical resolution changes are micro and much much too small to actually see a difference in print quality.

Are you just regurgitating what you read on the reddit 3d printing board without actually looking at and understanding the kinematics of the printer?
They have a hardon to hate on any delta printer, didnt think that cancer would have come over here too.

>>992555
Deltas are much lighter and faster pound for pound, and will put out the same working accuracy and resolution as any cube printer.

We are talking like 100 microns here, that is nothing in terms of actual accuracy. This isnt a CNC, they are machines made of plastic and threaded rods.

The big problem is the learning curve for 3d printing is steep. Tuning for both of them is completely different, so if you start with one you will have to relearn everything you know for the other one.
Be weary because it causes a lot of bias when someone picked one side.

Especially when you listen to a place like reddits board who has shills running around modding, and sponsors who sell kits.

>>992336
I don't see any download option for it. Just a promise to refund if you don't like it.

>>992713
He meant pirate it.
It's got terrible DRM on it, no way they are going to let you try it out

They stopped having a demo after the first couple updates

>>992728
Also
>zippyshare version is clean, 10kb loader64.exe
>torrent version has virus, 420kb loader64.exe

See
>>992282

Just ordered a Makerfarm Pegasus 10.
Here's hoping the build and everything goes okay.

>>992732
>>992728

Well that is handy. Could never find one myself.

>>992735
You'll be fine if you take your time making sure things are square when putting it together.
If you half ass the assembly (which is easy to just slap together) it's going to make your life a lot more difficult.

>>992743
I'll be anal retentive about the assembly, don't worry.

I'd like to get a few spools of cheap filament to experiment and learn with. Mostly PLA or ABS to get started.

Any suggestions? Or will any old brand do?

>>992748
I use Push Plastic myself. USA made free shipping, I think it's all 2 day shipping too.its also on prime on Amazon.

I had some real issues with eBay filament, the quality varies a ton with some import stuff.
Though Hatchbox brand import stuff is supposedly good, it's only a few dollars cheaper than push

>>992751
Push plastic PLA was tested as one of the weakest brands

>>992773
Who and where?

They are an extremely popular brand, and have great customer service if you do have a problem with a roll of their filament.
Their black friday deals every year are great.

>>992555
There is one realy vocal guy on here who takes any ocasion to needlessly shit on deltas. They are superior to rectangle-printers in any way but he just continues to fling shit and never manages to make one solid point.

>>992554
ABS. PLA is much too fragile, nylon I have no experience with, and carbon seems to me to be too new to have good results with.

>>992751
>>992773
I love Hatchbox PLA. Gone through 2.5 rolls of different colours (lime green, gold, orange) with no jams. ~$20 last I bought some.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2DVt-k_CU8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRYNP1-Y4No

So It seems I can 3D print a metal mold for that small injection mold machine.

Both cost around 3k.
I want to make plastic garbage to scam weebs at conventions and plastic shit to sell to kids and some small operations making custom figurines.

It's this a good investment?
It's less than 3k.

>>993142
You cant directly print an injection molding die. It'll look like dog shit.

You need to print and clean a plastic model and use lost casting to create an aluminium die.

If you want a proper die, you'll need it CNC'd and probably need to talk to a consultant to get it optimized for injection molding.

>>993151
any cheap alternative for cheap production of plastic crap?

>>993153
lost casting and injection molding is pretty cheap

you can diy a cheap injection molding machine, it's just a vice, a plunger, a nozzle, and a heating element

>>993154
yeah, but you just told me a 3D printed mold will be crap.

:(

>>993153
Consider ordering from China. You'll get the most quality for your dollar out of there since they steal molds and dies and have cheap labor.

weeb keychains you can order them for less than $2 each in bulk and sell them for $5-10

>>993162
http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/rapid-little-plastic-moulds-making-plastic-injection-rapid-prototype/32509116339.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000017.2.v7OLDh

It's this good enough?

>>993161
a 3d printed metal mold is not a lost cast mold

>>993164
that's a fucking expensive quote, but contact them with a design and ask for an actual cost/unit in bulk

Also consider PVC things, they are much cheaper

the good ali deals you need a chinese account

>>993151
>You cant directly print an injection molding die. It'll look like dog shit.
>You need to print and clean a plastic model and use lost casting to create an aluminium die.
This. 3D print a model from ABS, give it an acetone vapour bath for smoothing, and make a mold from that.

>>993153
3D print, vapour bath for decent results on things that don't need to have terrific detail.

>>993154
> just a vice, a plunger, a nozzle, and a heating element
If you don't want molten pressurized plastic spraying all over the place you NEED to do the calculations. The mold halves need a lot of pressure to stay together.

>>993019
>>992555
Yea, and there's also an equally vocal guy who thinks deltas are superior to literally any other machine and will start shit for no reason other than starting flame wars.

The truth of the matter is it doesn't matter what printer you get. They both have their ups and downs, and so long as the axes are stable, the settings are right, and the filament doesn't suck. You'll get good prints every time.

>>993236
>>993019

>the "delta vs Cartesian" meme war again

I wonder if the CNC thread has this problem

>>993236
>>993238
I'm curious, if delta printers are "so much better", then why am I not seeing any professional 3D delta printers (i.e., Stratasys, Fortus, 3D systems, etc.)? Only consumer ones.

>>993258
What a quality post.
Making up a quote, then comparing apples to oranges as if it has any bearing in reality.

Im guessing you are the anti-delta guy?

>>993267
>making up a quote
what

>comparing apples to oranges
I literally just asked a simple question, I'm not the "anti-delta guy". All of the professional printers I've encountered so far have been Cartesian, I haven't seen a single professional Delta. I'm wondering why.

>as if it has any bearing in reality
Well, maybe because it does? Because the Delta vs. Cartesian posts are a constant thing in this thread?

>>993268
Deltas use all their 3 motors for every movement while box-bots use only 2 at max making them less fast and precise.

>>993277
that's some dumb shit there anon

>>993268
Nobody said that deltas are "so much better", at least not that I can see.

As for your apples and oranges, you cant compare to compare two different levels of printers with two different demographics with different intended uses.

A $20,000 industrial machine pushes the limits of FDM printing, in terms of accuracy and speed.
You can only FDM print so fast or so accurate. This is why real industrial prototyping is done with sintering 3d printing.

An industrial level parallel robot of the same caliber as the industrial FDM printer would be far faster on every axis. Doesnt mean you would be able to use that extra speed, you can only lay plastic so fast while keeping it under control

These big companies who have been making 3d printers since the 80s when they owned patents for them are not going to change their designs they have honed for over 20 years. There wouldnt be a benefit to it, they already have heavy rigid and accurate machines. It wouldnt cost any less.

As for consumer printers you build in your house?
Speed is king, its really not hard to get near top accuracy out of any home printer. Nearing the .1 layers even with a chinese acrylic printer. I can get similar quality prints out of a 200$ printer vs a 1500$ tazbot.

The only difference is how fast you are going to get it.
If you have a home built wobbly wooden cartesian printer, and you crank the speed up, its going to flex while having no accuracy at all.

When you are working with the sort of accuracy and layer height that home printers do, a parallel bot can make a significant difference in speed.
Deltas give best bang for buck speed out without compromising on accuracy.

>>993277
more motors would mean more sources of error, ergo less precise

>>993287
This complete oversimplification is just as retarded as his was.

File: intrigued.jpg (453KB, 1936x2592px) Image search: [Google]

453KB, 1936x2592px

FIGHT, FIGHT, FIGHT!

Since it looks like since this fight is about to break out for a 3rd time, what do you all think about Polar Bots? Like with a bed that spins, a spine and a cantilever with the hotend on it. I'm thinking of building one because it's just 1 axis and a leadscrew, but I don't know how the precision would change with distance from center.

>>993277
Okay, so if deltas are more precise, which is preferable in a professional environment, wouldn't they be more desired? Do you see the disconnect there?

>>993280
>Nobody said that deltas are "so much better"
Not directly, no, but it's been at the very least (very) heavily (and very vocally) implied time and again.

>two different demographics with different intended uses
They're both in need of FDM - the means isn't really very important, I'd say.

>These big companies who have been making 3d printers since the 80s when they owned patents for them are not going to change their designs they have honed for over 20 years
I'd disagree here, as they're not still using 20-year-old machines or technology, they're constantly doing R&D and upgrading it - if there's a cheaper/faster/better way to do something they'd probably have used it by now.

>speed is king
Don't know about that. I know I prefer higher-quality prints over fast prints, and quite a few other people do as well - otherwise you wouldn't have tons of discussions on various sites about how to get better quality, why X isn't working as well as it should, why someone is getting blobby prints, etc.

But then there are the people who just care about shitting out prints as fast as they can without regards for quality, so.

>similar quality prints out of $200 vs $1500 printer
Agreed, mostly.

>Deltas give best bang for buck speed out without compromising on accuracy.
Ah, there's helpful information - it's a compromise then. The one pro-delta guy has been very insistent on how it's better overall, both in speed and accuracy - or at least that's what I'm getting from them.

tl;dr I'm glad to see non shitflinging and fingerpointing discussion and you made good points.

>>993431
>Okay, so if deltas are more precise, which is preferable in a professional environment, wouldn't they be more desired? Do you see the disconnect there?

Most rapid prototyping printers use SLS.

And industrial FDM printers are using stuff like high end ballscrews instead of belts. The tolerance for precision is vastly different between professional printers and consumer printers.

>>993431
>Do you see the disconnect there?

I guess you still dont see the disconnect in your whole irrelevant argument.
Still trying to compare home machines and industrial machines as if its making some sort of point?

Let me makes this easy for you
>parallel robot very fast, much too fast for FDM printing
>industrial cartesian printer, max out limits of FDM printing
>no benefit to vastly change design

>consumer cartesians not built like 20,000 machines
>hit speed wall because not built strong like a real CNC
>same dollar for dollar pound for pound parallel bot can be built with same accuracy and much more speed

now
>Don't know about that. I know I prefer higher-quality prints over fast prints, and quite a few other people do as well

I didnt say speed over accuracy, same exact accuracy faster.
Once the new hobbyists figure out the literal basics and stop getting blobby prints, they start figuring out how to print in good quality faster.

> The one pro-delta guy has been very insistent on how it's better overall, both in speed and accuracy

I am the pro delta guy who gets baited, mr wooden cartesian man makes bad points that get refuted, then it devolves into a flame war.

Before he came around (he hasnt been here long), we used to talk politely about different printer types.
Instead as of a few months ago we have to get into fights over them.

How is anyone supposed to talk pros and cons about certain printer types when people come in spouting fallacies and saying irrelevant garbage like
>aint no industrial delta FDM printers, see the disconnect in wanting one for a home printer?

And you post the facts of deltas being accurate and faster you get backhanded gems trying to deflect like this
>there are the people who just care about shitting out prints as fast as they can without regards for quality, so

Im not sure exactly why someone would be so against a certain type of printer.
Trying to pick sides and divide a small general

So my first couple and last couple of layers of ABS seem to be a bit shitty and warped.

Using a heated glass bed (110C) and abs juice on a flashforge. Should I slow down the print or is it something else?

Also sometimes toward the end it will stick to the nozzle and get snatched off the bed. Starting to regret going to the glass bed, but the the use of a gluestick (only thing that really worked) on the default bed made the bottom of the prints kinda shitty. Wondering if I'm not leveling it right. I get it where a paper can pass through with only a slight resistance, maybe it needs to raised, but yet sometimes it gets stuck to the extruder.

>>993639
Check to make sure your bed is leveled correctly and that your homed Z is close enough to the print bed.

>>993639
also when you are checking with paper for slight resistance, make for certain you dont have any residual filament sitting on the tip.
Warping and bad adhesion is usually caused by not being leveled right.

Especially when you are using glue stick or ABS juice to hold it down.

Also slowing down your initial layer could help too.

>>993238
>I wonder if the CNC thread has this problem

No, there wouldnt be any delta talk. When you are talking CNC you think of a CNC router or other type of cutting tool for machining.

Deltas cant take strong lateral force on the effector, so it would be useless at machining.

They have just found a place in 3d printing where its like basically CNC light. You dont need huge power and rigidity to force a cutting bit through material. You simply lay hot plastic so cheap linear parts and cheap weak motors are the norm.

You cant even build a wooden based CNC router for less than 1600-1700$ or so.

Fuck, a set of chinese linear rails for a wooden router is gonna cost you 3-400$ by itself.

>>993639
Is it enclosed? ABS warps when cooling.

>>993650
I stopped using glue when I went to a glass bed. Gluestick worked, but it left a lot shit stuck to the prints that wasn't really coming off and over time it built up terrible amounts of crap on the bed. This is just abs juice and on heated glass now.

>>993673
Flashforge is enclosed, its also inside a temperature controlled area.

It feels like a leveling issue, but it also seems level. But maybe I'm just wrong about how it should feel when level.

There are just so many variables. I really hope I figure it all out to get consistent quality eventually. Feel like my learning of 3D design is outstripping my ability to print things.

>>993656
>You cant even build a wooden based CNC router for less than 1600-1700$ or so.

You very much can. Mine's got $2200 in it and it could be made for much, much less. Its predecessor was well under $800.

Depending on how much accuracy and work volume you're willing to sacrifice, you can do it for substantially cheaper than that, even.

>>993689
My BOM I have been trying to put together keeps hitting almost 800$ in just ebay leadscrews, linear rails, and steppers/controllers.

Even buying shorter rails and leadscrews dont really bring my BOM price down, they are only marginally cheaper.
Maybe im just looking at the wrong stuff, but I kind of what it to be a substantial tool. I just dont want it to feels chincy like my I3 does, esepcially if you are cutting shit with it.

Why isnt there a CNC general up?
Are there enough people to upkeep one?

>>993701
You really really have to shop around to find the best deals, and it's important to include Aliexpress as well, most of these things are a lot cheaper there than on eBay.
I'm finishing up a really cheap, small-ish (500mm rails) router, and with a bit more experience I could've gotten away with paying about $500 total. I had to change the design several times since issues I didn't anticipate - it being my first attempt at a CNC and lacking precision cutting tools - came up, as is I probably paid around $650.
But here's the breakdown for the important parts, everything from eBay or aliexpress:
PSU - $20, 240W 24V
controller - arduino uno with protoneer shield ~$15, DRV8825 5-pack $10
Cheapest NEMA23 x3 - $75
linear rails - 4x SBR12 500mm, $70 + 2x 12mm chromed 300mm rods, $10; SBR12UU x12 about $35
I'm not using ballscrews for now, only trapezoid threaded rods, 9 nuts at about $3 each and 3 1m rods, total about $40
Frame is 3030 variant of 8020 alu profiles, cost something around 60 euros, but I bought it from a local supplier, plus a bunch of various alu profiles for putting things together.

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Hey guys I just bought someone's peachy printer pre-order for $60 on eBay.

That's like half off. Did I do good?

>>993878
Can I buy it from you for $70?

>>993878
Wait, what exacly did you buy? a printer or a preorder for one?

>>993901
I think he's making a joke about >>991745

>>993901
That thing hit shit's creek.
>Asshole used the kickstarter money to buy himself a house instead

>>993878
Someone is actually selling a peachy beta and wants 600$ for it.
lol

>>992144
is that blue line the filament after the cold end!?

Semi-related is x-carve basic or fully loaded a good value for a CNC router?

Learning 3D design programs I would thinkg routing, printing, and other CNC would overlap pretty well once you get one down.

>>994049
Yeah, that is right out of the extruder, the bowden tube shown goes to the hotend.
It mangles the shit out of the filament.

Funny, because smashed and deformed filament can cause all sorts of weird print quality issues.
But it seems print quality and print speed means jack shit to tiko.

>>994078
it's all about the UNIBODY™ design housing a LIQUIFIER™

>>993701
You already have a 3d printer, have you looked into the Mostly Printed CNC?
You can build it pretty cheaply, especially if you buy parts from aliexpress and other chinese markets. And assuming you have a RepRap type printer using a Ramps or other similar device, you already know how to run the system.

They look pretty capable for what they are, I want to make one and put a laser engraver on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdAoqKbS9Tg

I would never put the laser on my actual printer

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about to give up and go to non-free software

FreeCAD can't do this simple boolean and I'm wasting my life trying to figure out why

>>994104
have you checked out >>>/3/
Lots of really good 3d modelers there, if nobody here can give you a good answer.

>>993554
not any of the above posters but
> dollar for dollar pound for pound parallel bot can be built with same accuracy and much more speed

why wouldn't the big companies start trying to make these? time is money and if companies like shapeways can get prints out faster that means less cost to them and more stuff done in the same amount of time right? or is there something i'm missing here?

>>994104
Without pirating:
>Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists, small businesses, and students.
>Autodesk Inventor is free for "students." No .edu email address or proof of enrollment required.
>OnShape is free and browser-based.

If pirating:
>Whatever the fuck you want.
>SolidWorks is pretty standard.

>>994163
>>994104
SolidWorks is a great and powerful software, love it to death. It has its quirks and a learning curve, but what doesn't?

>>994161
not any of the posters above and find the whole thing laughable

>why wouldn't the big companies start trying to make these?

xy build area

>>994166
I'm actually curious what the cost-to-volume or printer volume to build volume numbers are for a parallel vs a Cartesian.

>>994181
It's not really a matter of usable area but useful area. Printing high isn't as useful as printing planar because of lower strength and decreased detail. Any tall part can be easily split up into two and glued together.

>>994161
The argument makes sense, if we are talking like sub 1000$ printers.Once you start getting better printers I doubt its that big of a difference.
I would guess whatever machines Shapeway uses are going to be much better than hobby printers where it would be useful.

And like
>>994166
said
Build area is pretty important and you would have to scale a delta pretty big to get a large build area.

So I have a brand new roll of PLA filament.
It has a weird sort of rough texture to it.
Its also much more brittle than my other PLA colors were.

It feels unlike all of the other PLA I have ever used.

Ive printed out two small projects ok, but now its jamming every time I try to use it.

Im able to pass it if I heat the shit out of it into ABS temps, but even then I can barely hand feed it at those temps. With other rolls hand feeding is very easy.

Is this a sign of a bad roll of filament?

>>994212
you got very bad (polluted) filament

>>994212
where did you get it?

Anyone know if there are any cheap options for dual extruder printers?

I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 and it turns out round shapes need an almost completely solid support to print correctly, so I'd like an option to print the stuff using water soluble material.

>>994412
Not the cheapest option, but one of the best and easiest options I have seen is the E3D Chimera hotend.

Its very lightweight being Bowden and it minimizes the lost print capacity. Nozzles are very short and very close to each other. Not only that you know they are quality hotends. The mounts would be easy to make if you couldnt find one already.

If not there are other ways you could go.
Like chancing one of those dual direct drive extruders on ebay, and creating a new mount for that. You wouldnt have to build bowden extruders but you never know how good the hotends will actually be.

Or hell you could buy 2 bowden hotends of any type, create a mount for them, and run them.
Or maybe buying another Wanhao extruder/hotend combo, then creating an adapter plate for your carriage and running both at once.


I think that unless you have a very large printer, bowden is the way to go with dual extrusion, which is why I love the Chimera so much.

Once I build another printer, a Chimera is going on that bad boy. I just dont think I could deal with it on my main printer

So every print I do peals up in the exact same spot on the left side. I would assume its a leveling issue, but what the issue is I'm not sure. Any ideas?

It has a three wingnut system and as far as it feels testing it, appears level.

>>994497
>chimera costs $115
Motherfucker. I also wanted to make my printer dual extrusion but looks like I'm just going to get another regular E3D and set them up next to each other.

>>994639
Do you have a cooling fan or fans?
Are they pointing at or away from the edge sticking up?
Maybe a draft in the room?

Is it where the print initially starts laying plastic, where maybe it underextrudes a tiny bit when the print first starts making it not stick well?

I find it was always a leveling issue for me, but I am currently using an uneven bad that cant really be leveled well

I used blue tape and glue stick every time, even though it sucks to remove prints.

>>994648
Thats one of my problems too, I have a full metal E3d which cost me 85$. Lite didnt exist when I got it.

Regardless, I cant justify taking an expensive hotend off and letting it sit. Gotta be when I build another printer. It would be different if I had a cheap hotend on there in the first place.

>>994659
2 cooling fans that point out from the extruder and not directly on the print (its ABS).

enclosed printer, indoors, glass heated bed

It may actually be at the first point of contact for the print where it is lifting up actually, however, I have mine set to draw a full line across the front of the bed to clean it out at the start of each print.

I'm using a mix of ABS and acetone to stick things to the bed.

Before I went to glass the gluestick thing worked well but made a mess of the bed and never really fully came off my prints. Thus my attempts to go glass for a cleaner more even surface.

I've had no luck with bluetape in the past, shit always curled or just peeled off under the heat. I really don't know whats up with it at this point. If its the abs/acetone combo not at the right mix or bed temp or some small setting coming out of the slicer directions that I'm not aware of.


>>994412
On the cheap you an just print to halves of a round object and a little acetone will soften the print enough that they bind on contact in about 3 seconds.

>>994666
ABS warps real bad if it cools too fast, some people say you shouldnt have a cooling fan blowing at all.

I would get in your slicer settings and change when you fans come on. All the slicers I have used turn your cooling fan on, on layer 2.
Maybe turn it on say layer 5.
Maybe it will let the first few layers cool slower stopping the warpage.

>>994668
Its just the cooling fans on the heat block its not for the print at all. Suppose I could move it up a few layers that way though and try it thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-DnhVoSHJk
Any bets?

>>994901
The technology seems good, but then
>it will cost literally hundreds of thousands to buy
>it will cost thousand dollars to print despite all the "it's the cheapest thing ever!" claims
>most of the actually interesting functions, ie embedded circuits, aren't actually available
also
>making bullshit feelgood videos to advertise a high-end professional product

>>994901
Neat.

>>994912
>cost literally hundreds of thousands to buy
Well, it IS for large companies / professionals

>cost thousand dollars to print
No comment, don't know about that

> "it's the cheapest thing ever!"
I actually don't see where it says that, just that they're rolling this out.


>most of the actually interesting functions, ie embedded circuits, aren't actually available
???
Am I not seeing a page or something? I don't see any reference to embedded circuits anywhere

>making bullshit feelgood videos to advertise a high-end professional product
Marketing isn't just done for consumers; people in corporate need to feel that purchases are justified. And hell, this might also be a way for people to get interested in HP itself, i.e. work there or something.

>>994928
There's a webpage linked in the description, it has additional information and another video. That's also where they claim that it provides super cheap prints with an asterisk, specifically that it's only cheap compared to other 100k+ printers, embedded circuits, different material properties.

>>994912
It won't cost thousands to buy. It costs thousands to end users who commission prints from prototyping companies, but that's because said companies do a lot more than just print and ship.

Btw, Shapeways europe branch installed one.

https://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/25462-shapeways-receives-the-first-hp-multi-jet-fusion-3d-printer.html

According to them it will be cheaper than what they have now (old SLS machines) due to speed.

>>995037
I mean "It won't cost thousands to print," oops.

>>994666
>On the cheap you an just print to halves of a round object and a little acetone will soften the print enough that they bind on contact in about 3 seconds.
I tried that but for some reason there's always an extra layer on the bottom that warps the part, even when bottom layer is set to normal layer height. It's for small parts, so even a single layer matters.

>>995041
Sanding maybe?

I dunno Dual is more expensive, but if its really what you need its not like you have to buy them often. I'm not a big spender either, but if its something I get a lot of use out of then sometimes its worth just doing it. Not exactly a cheap hobby if you want to do it well it seems.

>>994412
>Anyone know if there are any cheap options for dual extruder printers?
I have a setup similar to yours anon, was using soluble HIPS filament to print solid support for a large object with rounded base.

Our printers were a Makerbot Replicator 2X and a Flashforge Creator 2. The flashforge is a chinese clone of the rep2x and cheap. Runs the same firmwares, same gcode, etc and was less than half the price.

>>995099
> The flashforge is a chinese clone of the rep2x and cheap. Runs the same firmwares, same gcode, etc and was less than half the price.

And the best part of it is?
Its not a fucking Makerbot.

>>994901
My bet?

They can say its going to be cheap to print all they want, but I dont believe it for one minute.
They WERE the company who pioneered in making their whole business model gouging companies (and then later on home users) on toner and printer ink.

Stratasys and other companies charge insane for their proprietary filament, and they machines cost a ton.
HP is going to try and undercut them by selling similarly equipped and capable machines for less money, then make up the difference by selling filament at stupid prices.

Once they start gaining market share, the whole "cheaper to print" thing is going to fly out the window and nobody is going to do anything about it. What, you gonna go and spend another 200,000$ to spite HP after you already bought the machine and have it all set up in your business?

>>995115
Why does everyone hate Makerbot? Have a flashforge myself.

>>995126
Makerbot used to be a great company.
They were small open source, makerbots were a bit step in the hobby 3d printer community.

Then they sold out to Stratasys who is a patent troll for industrial printing. We all know most of those patents expires, so Im sure you can figure out what happened next.

They starting stealing open designs people were using on other open printers, putting them on makerbots then using their companies power and money to patent them.

I mean technically you cant install a heated build chamber or a quick disconnect printer head on your printer without breaking a Makerbot/Stratasys patent.

It was just a big fuck you to the community, which ultimately hurts anyone trying to make an open printer and then sell them commercially.
And if you want to ignore all that, their printers cost 3 times as much as everyone else, but they are unreliable, hard to repair, and just arent worth the money.

They took the good name of a company that had grown the hobby printer community for 5 years and shit all over it. Then started making fucking store showrooms for Makerbots, a literal makerbot store to keep their marketshare.

Its just a really sad and nasty thing to do to such a small and niche market.

Any one knows what controller board does ultimaker 2 use? or any ultimaker for that matter.

>>995139
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

>>995126
I personally don't hate makerbot, I just hate what they have become, and having worked with the JewPrint SE+ For a good year, I really hate stratasys.

It's just the perfect example of open source tragedy, commercial vs open warfare, and is just generally depressing.

http://hackaday.com/2016/04/28/the-makerbot-obituary/

>>995092
I'm kinda thinking about trying to selling my Wanhao Di3 for $350 and putting up money for a different printer.

Why is a melamine frame not recommended again? Folgertech has a new dual head printer called the Cloner and it's cheap.

>>995151
Its not as rigid as other materials, and without rigidity you lose print quality at higher speeds. This is especially prevalent in I3 type designs.

The Cloner you are talking about is a boxed printer though, so its not as big of a deal.
Though I dont know how well it will perform with 2 heavy extruders being slung around.

Folgertech printers are still bottom end printers right out of the box.

>>995116
They say the filament is "open"

>>995126
>>995130
>>995148
Ha, they're the Oculus of 3D printing

>>995116
Yeah but how hard would it be to retrofit a cheap hp to use a standard filament?

>>995223
The price of these machines, and the people buying them, there is no way they are going to be trying to rig it up to use something other than what it was intended for.

You do that with 400$ davinci printers.

>>995200
Define? If that means what I think it means, open or not, (almost) nobody's going to be able make (extrude into filament) it anyway.

>>995183
>i3 is not rigid
You know, I've seen this tossed around a lot, but mine's solid as a rock is the oddest thing.

>>995345
He's saying melamine isn't rigid. And the i3 design isn't great compared to box frames.

>>995183
It'd be nice if there were stores that sold steel makerbot-like frames so you can build your own without getting a custom cut.

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So i want to upgrade Y carriage on my prusa i3 that is now made of akrile glass with the aluminum one. How thick aluminum should I choose so the carriage does not bend much and on the other hand it is not to heavy. I have acces to alu plates from 1 to 5mmm on thickness.
One other thing since I print only in PLA and I basically don't need heated bed (normally set to 25°C which is more or less the room temperature), should i remove it and save some weight.

Another question
My current end g code settings in cura are
>G28 X0 Y0
>G1 Y215
I have set that when print is finished the Y carriage goes to Y 0 (default settings when X and Y go to 0) and then forward 215 (G1 command only for Y) so that i can easily take the object of the print bed.
My question is does G1 command stops at max software end stop or does it ignores the Y limit and goes on so that if there is less then 215 mm left on Y axis it will crash at the end instead of stopping at max Y?

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So what do you guys think about the motion system of the MOD-T by New matter.

The printer itself is pretty meh, and only does PLA, but I haven't seen that motion system done before. It's basically just two really long gears with a toothed rack on the bottom of the bed.

I think it would be cool to build one, but I don't know what those Hobbed bar things are called.

>>995753
seems very inaccurate

>>995687
I think it's a firmware setting. Are you using Marlin? If so, look around your endstop settings--I think there's something like "software endstops" that controls this. In my current configuration gcode commands that are beyond the printer's configured printable volume just stop at the configured limit. E.g., if I tell my printer G1 Y300 it stops at Y215 (which is is max in Y).

>>995753
Looks pretty cool, but I've never heard of it.

>>995768
What makes you say that? The only thing I can see which might make it inaccurate is the build platform being slung in two directions, but most printers have the bed carriage moving in at least 1 horizontal direction anyway.

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So, I just finished an 8.5 hour print last night and am very unhappy with how it turned out. The material's ABS. What did I do wrong? Could I have prevented this?

>>995835
What temps, what filament, and was it enclosed?

At a glance I'd say it wasn't printing hot enough and you didn't have it enclosed.

>>995835
>>995840
Same here, layers too defined and warping everywhere.

Please post hotend and bed temps.

>>995835
>>995854
255/100 , heated bed turned off ~25% of the way through, unknown filament (given to me by a friend, no label), no enclosure. Ambient temp ~28-32C.

>>995891
Hot-end and bed temps sound good to me, the lack of enclosure looks like the the main culprit to me, as the piece is quite big.
>heated bed turned off ~25% of the way through
for what reason?

>>995897
I think a wire's loose, it keeps turning off by itself. I used to be able to fix it by just jiggling, but not anymore.

I'll put a cardboard box around it, worked well enough as an enclosure before.

>>995900
>random heated bed shutdown.

That wouldn't cause failure at upper layers, but I had that issue.

If your are using a RAMPS or anything Chinese, you need Cooling of some sort on that resettable fuse.

I had this issue for the longest time; all I had to do was slap a small fan on my RAMPS.