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Stupid Questions General SQTDDTOT

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Stupid Questions General

Google first, ask later.
>>
You started the thread and didn't even have a question to ask?

Dumbass.
>>
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I need to find tracks for a robot I'm making, but I'm having a hard time trying to find ones designed for that purpose.
I'm looking for tracks ~1.5-2mm thick, ~1cm wide (I can cut them if they're wider), and 40cm in perimeter (20 cm long).
I've been trying to find something in aliexpress and e-bay, but something lik exercise bands are probably my best option.
Does anybody knows a source of a variety of rubber bands (e.g: industrial rubber bands used for seals or whatever)?
I don't care about the source, as long as they have a good grip on the ground.
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>>1131991
>Not knowing how stupid question generals work
>Being this newfag
Banners were a mistake, we're just importing cancer from other boards.
>>
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>>1131993
>I need to find tracks for a robot I'm making

seek a store selling vacuum cleaner parts.
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>>1132000
This is exactly what I was hoping for, there are just too many uses for rubber bands not to find a suitable one for my project. Thanks!
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You guys do anything about making regular clothing here? Or is that more of a /cgl/ thing?
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I'm looking for a machine to intercept a phone call on a landline before the phone rings, to play a message. Does such a device exist, and if so, where should I be looking? I've already been googling and have only found info about answering machines. Yes, contacting the phone company is an option, but I want something user-end before I go that route.
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looking to do my first soldering job, and i know nothing about soldering.
i want to install this to my 3dsxl so i can use a gamecube controller for smash on the go.
this is what i'm ordering (3ds controller mod): http://3dscapture.com/order.html
intructions are here: http://3dscapture.com/controller/
a youtube video of the installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdFBMKvvLVM

i own a soldering iron, and some solder. i dont know if all solder is the same, or if i should buy specific solder for this mod. also, he uses 32 awg wire. i'm having trouble finding this wire online for canadian retailers. can someone help me find some?

also, has anyone done this mod before? any tips?
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>>1133049
A modem and computer. Don't remember how, It's been 20 years.
Just search: using a modem to answer and play message
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>>1133049
If you have the caller ID service enabled, the calling party's phone number is sent just before the first ring or sometimes just after it. There are different methods for sending the information, but in my country it is usually sent as a string of DTMF digits.
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>>1134388
>i dont know if all solder is the same

It's not, but, if it's sold for electronics work (i.e. it's not plumbing solder or silver solder), it'll work just fine.

>i'm having trouble finding this wire online for canadian retailers. can someone help me find some?

Try looking for "magnet wire". Regular, PVC-insulated wire usually only goes up to 24AWG or so. Magnet wire (enameled wire) can be easily found much thinner. It's a little harder to strip the ends, though. I've always just turned the iron way up to burn it off (holding the end in a lighter for a moment works, too).
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What kind of door knob would I need for this door?

Its two doors that go in between my living room and a separate bedroom.
>>
How do I firewall the entire solidworks directory?
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How can I repurpose a ps4 controller ?
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>>1134607
Paperweight. Doorstop. Weapon. Vibrating butt stuff. Decoration. Bobber for fishing. Marijuana pipe. The possibilities aren't endless, but they're numerous.
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>>1134607
y
>>
>trying to take heatshield off car
>held on by 2 rusted bolts
>second one strips
>heat it up with a butane torch and try vice grip
>only strips it worse
>get dremel out and cut a slot through the middle
>heat it up again
>put vice on flathead and try to turn it via the slow
>chips the screwdriver
>slot is now sheared

so what do i need to know before i drill it out?
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>>1134635
Stop heating the fucking bolt. I read this WAY too much on this board. You don't heat the fucking bolt, you heat the thing the bolt goes into, focus the heat on that, and keep the bolt out of the flame. You know why? Because heat makes things expand. Heat a nut, it gets bigger and the bolt comes out. Heat a bolt? It expands into the nut while getting softer and twists off.

If you're just looking to remove the shield, grind off the bolt heads and drop it. If you're interested in putting it back on, don't remove it.
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>>1131993
I keep at least one defective inner-tube from a bicycle, a motorcycle. and a truck tire laying around so I can cut specific width rubber bands in different lengths.
When I happen across an inner-tube that's a different cross section than what I have, I save it too.
cut narrow for weak hold
cut wide for stronger hold

works great
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>>1134645
Yeah, I thought about this too, but the inner tube of my bycicle is still in perfect condition. It would make a nice cover for individual wheels tho.
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>>1134416
in the tutorial it specifically said 32awg wire. does it HAVE to be 32awg? or can it be 24 like you mentioned? and is it supposed to be copper wire?
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>>1134624
Chucked it at a wall while drunk and a 2 buttons don't work. I already bought a new one, but I don't really wanna throw it away.

>>1134610
I means is it possible to reuse the touchpad or buttons for something. I have some soldiering skill but lack creativity.
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>>1134528

why?
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>>1134940
is it not necessary to use the pirated version?
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>>1134942
I've never had any trouble. Are you using a SolidSquad release?
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>>1134944
yeah. 2017 sp1
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>>1134946
Then you should probably be fine. If you want to be extra sure just turn off your network connection before running it.
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>>1134947
k yolo thanks.
>>
is it possible to paint over chrome?
if so, how?
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>>1134954
plastidip works fine
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>>1134478
Mortise lock set, can get spendy. measure the depth and hit the thrift stores or an old school locksmith. Only other option is to fill the holes and install a standard lock set for $30
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What is your favorite truss to support a uniform load on an angle? Kind of like one side of a roof.

Going to be using aluminum channel or angle. Or maybe fiberglass, not sure yet.
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>Convert shower doors to windows
I have some large sliding shower doors lying around, basically just huge sheets of glass.

Could use some windows in my shed, but I can't figure out how to secure them.
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>>1136408
It's as simple as cutting the glass and fitting the frame to shape. If you have access to a router, then you can create a properly sized groove for the thickness of the glass. It's similar to framing a painting. I'd caution you on using the shower door glass though, it probably isnt meant to live outside and might be less durable than you'd want.
>>
I need some advice/a dummy's guide to a small homemade furnace and crucible.
Also what makes fire clay & sand different to regular cement / mortar mixes?
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When making a table saw sled is it better to have the runners slightly thicker than the depth of the mitre slot or slightly thinner than the depth?
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>>1136427
I was thinking of not cutting the glass at all, just making frames for it. They should hold up okay, we don't have tornados here.

Maybe some modular aluminum extrusion that I could cut to size?
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>>1136499
It can be easily done with wood. But you can also get an aluminum extruded frame somewhere.
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>>1136427
>It's as simple as cutting the glass and fitting the frame to shape. I

Shower doors are tempered glass.
When you try to cut it you're gonna make a mess.
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>>1136499
>aluminum extrusion
don't let the metal touch the edge of the glass
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>>1136408
>>1136662
To clarify, tempered glass needs to be cut before its tempered, it will certainly break if you try to cut it.
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>>1136482
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cte_LSYflAE
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How hard would it be to make the touch controller from this game?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYs4vMcxKO4

I played the game a couple (read: a lot of) times when I was in Japan, but it wasn't clear to me whether the input was discrete (effectively buttons) or if the buttons changing color was just a visual effect and the fingers touch points were tracked continuously. This doesn't matter for most of the inputs but there are notes where you have to a slide input to hit them.

Also not seen in the video are motion sensors above the touchpad to detect the player raising their hands for the air notes. I'm not really interested in duplicating those unless it would be cheap. Basically there is a column of (infrared?) sensors one one side of the machine, and I think the other side is a column of holes with emitters. The machine can tell whether you are raising or lowering your hand by the order in which sensors are blocked. It can't do anything fancy to tell the difference between which hand is being raised, so people often cheese the game by using one hand for the air motions and the other for actually hitting the notes.
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anybody have some ideas on bending some styrene frame rails back true again? it's bent by about 1/4" and it needs to be straight. tried clamping it for like 2 hours and it didn't work. little apprehensive to heatgun it because I don't wanna ruin the part. any other ideas?

>>1134635
yeah you fucked it good, anon
gotta drill the fucker out now. you basically forge-welded the bolt into the heatshield mount thing, and broke your ghetto screwhead.
if you have an extractor tap set, try that. if not, get the tungsten carbide (i'm assuming these are hardened) and drill the fucker out and retap the hole to the next size up.
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The back of my watch popped off and I can't get it back on.
I don't have access to a vice, but I've wrapped it in a shirt and put my whole body weight on it to no avail. I even tried putting the back of the watch in the freezer so it would contract a bit but it didn't help.

The body of the watch is aluminium and its a friction fit back panel with a little rubber seal, no threading.
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>>1136694
Actually its stainless steel not aluminium lol. I haven't taken it out of the drawer in months
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Does there exist a murphy bed solution which doesn't require wall or floor mounting? I have a full size mattress which I want to lift off the floor when not in use, murphy bed seems my ideal solution but I'm a renter and can't justify making wall/floor modifications. At worst I could just put my mattress up on its side against the wall when not in use, are there straps or something you can get to hold down sheets/comforters/pillows when the bed is up against the wall that way?
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>>1136699
could just use ratchet straps or bigass bungees to hold your shit on the bed. I don't know a murphy without floor mounting.
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>>1136699
you like that little man?
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how come most chinesium fasteners have that weird yellow coating on them? shitty hot dip galvanizing? curry got in the blast furnace? cosmoline? I legitimately wanna know.
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>>1131994
It's been happening for months and all those with valuable input have left.
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>>1136499
Why bother? You could just use a bead of clear silicone to stick your glass panel to the extremity of your opening. That's how I fixed mine. If you can't do it like that just fix it like you would any other glass window.
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>>1136708

its cadmium plating
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Buying my first angle grinder soon

Working as an apprentice plumber.

Already own Milwaukee cordless tools.

Since I'll be using it only occasionally, is it worth getting cordless instead of corded?

Also, is it worth it to buy knipex pliers instead of cheaper shit? Can't bring myself to pull on it.
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>>1136732
Cheap pliers are great when but you just know that they'll fail at a critical moment
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Newish home owner. I want to build some raised planters this year, along with a new set of wooden stairs for the deck.

There are a bunch of other little woodworking projects I'd like to tackle this year as well, including building a Little Free Library, some bird houses, new wooden hanging planter boxes, etc.

Would it make more sense to get a Miter Saw or a Circular Saw?
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>>1136860
For smaller and numerous cuts that have to be angled, a miter saw would be better. Anything larger than a 2X8 and it will become useless depending on which brand you get. To be honest I would get both.
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>>1136870
That makes sense.

Any recommendation on brand?
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What's a good archive of /diy/?
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>>1136732
you can buy cordless without a battery perhaps cheaper than a corded one, so why not
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>>1136860

Most outdoor projects (your planters, steps) need only straight cuts and often require cutting lumber 2x10 or larger (stringers for steps). Circular saw is best for that.

But I find lots of uses for a compound miter saw, so I'd put that 2nd on your list.
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>>1134478
Do they slide or swing?
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I have a bottle of contact cleaner but it's oily and does not vaporize away. How am I supposed to use this?
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>>1136860
You should really have both. As for circular saw look at either a proper track plunge saw or a circular saw that is track compatible. So much better.
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>>1136732
Buying one bare makes sense if you're already on the battery platform but in comparison to other cordless grinders available, Milwaukee is a pretty bad performer. The dewalt flexvolt looks the dogs bollocks mind.
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>>1137024
If it's not fit for purpose you don't use it, stop being a cheap fuck and replace it with something that is fit for purpose.
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>>1137041
But this is indeed for cleaning electronic contact.
And Kontakt K-60 is also oily.
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How do i get this slut to keep it's legs closed?
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I have some old candle stubs that I'm going to try to make a new candle out of. I have butcher twine, twisted cotton string. Can I double up the string to make it last longer? Pic related is what I'm talking about when I say double up
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i need to cut holes in pvc pipe sideways into the pipe. I've been using a hole saw and a corded drill because my batteries overheat when i use them.

Problem is I feel like im going to break my wrist when the work grabs, any advice?

The diameter of the holes is only slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe which makes it generally sketchy.

Any better ideas how to do this?

>>1137382

It will probably burn much more wax that way, and I want to say it will burn about as fast on the wick.

I always found high end toilet paper twisted into wicks to work pretty decent. I'm not a candle maker i just dinked around with less than a half dozen improvised candles at one time.
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I want to make a rotocasting rig, the type with two square frames nested one inside the other so that it spins the mold on all axes. Image related, someone's ghetto version with a hand crank, though I plan to build mine a lot more robustly.

The frame itself and the gearing for the rotation I can do easily, but some of the plastics/resins I plan to do take a long time to cure so I'd like to motorize it. What would be a good source of a smallish electric motor with decent oomph that I could plug into a standard 120v outlet? I can gear it down if I need to, but the lower the starting RPM the better.
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>>1137398
hole saw with finer teeth
firm grip but gentle pressure when starting
would say 'v' block and drill press but you'd already be doing this if you had those
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>>1137110
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>>1131988
I'm looking to cast a copy of an resin statue in bronze, but I am not sure what to make the mold out of. I would prefer to use silicone so that I can reuse the mold and for ease of use, but I can't find any silicone mold materials of the right temperature tolerance. Is there a material similar to silicone that I can use? What other ways besides sand casting work?
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>>1136694
Do you have access to a bunch of cinder blocks?
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>>1137491
No but it's supposed to have a pin like thing go into it somewhere that keeps it closed.
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>>1137507
I just figured out a method. I'll make a mold with silicone, cast wax in it, then use the lost wax method. Does that sound like it would work good?
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>>1137532
Sounds good if you have ceramic that you can use. Careful that it doesn't crack mid-pour.
>>
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How does one use these rivets to close these rings?

Or more specifically what tool should one use?
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>>1131988
I'm gonna fix a leaking shower head. I already have some 2-component epoxy at home, is there any disadvantage to using this rather than silicone?
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>>1137593
A hammer.
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>>1137600
is that shell pretty rigid? silicone is more flexible and less likely to leak if you accidentally hit or drop it. if you don't mess with it regularly epoxy is fine. just make sure you scuff the surfaces with sandpaper
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How do I increase the inner diameter of a copper pipe a small amount quickly? Currently I'm using a dremel with the sanding/grinding wheel, but it's taking forever.
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>>1137609
Just a random picture of a similar leak. My shower head is handheld, so maybe I'll go for silicone anyways, since I'm bound to drop it at some point.
I'm wondering how it will deal with the water pressure though, since I can only apply silicone on the outside of the shower head.
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>>1137611
there are special tools for this.
literally google "copper pipe expander"
its because people like to braze copper pipe directly together by expanding on piece and slipping the other inside to save on joints.
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>>1137624
From what I've been looking at, the copper pipe expanders are over $100, but I've seen this 'tail pipe expander': http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/exhaust/medium-tail-pipe-expander-69548.html
Would I have to worry about a copper pipe cracking if I use something like this?
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>>1137634
those are for different metals. they stretch different amounts.
there's a hammer in swaging tool that is cheap.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/301582982333
>>
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i'm diy retarded, was raised by a single mother so had nobody to teach me shit

got some power tools i've picked up/been given, soldering iron, drill, circular saw, jigsaw..

what are some good projects to get started, what other tools should i look at getting?

would like to eventually build up to doing some light home renovation
>>
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Hi /diy/,

I need to remove some kind of double sided adhesive foam tape from a label, any way of doing so without fucking up what's printed on it?
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>>1137649
>>raised by a single mother

nigger detected
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>>1137655
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>>1137669
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>>1137654
Razor blade with a bit of solvent to loosen the glue.

Or just keep your pic of it for the details and fuck it up in the removal
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>>1137672
I'll try this, thanks

Thing is it's about the label on the right of the pic, only part of it is visible and the rest is under the tape
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Can anyone please provide the bame to this part?
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>>1137649
Start making wooden furniture type things. Shelves and boxes. It may look like ass, but these type of projects are good for learning the foundations and do are not too expensive.
>>
>>1137715
speaker terminal socket / panel, should find it from there.
thats 2 x 3,5 phono input jack sockets mounted in it, in case that was the q.
>>
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How hard would it be to make an electric servo be vacuum triggered? I have a car from the 80s and it has a whole bunch of vacuum servos and while I believe only one has failed so far the others are bound to go at some point. Not to mention they cost $100 to $150 a pop if you can find one. I would like to just replace them with low-cost Electric servos or solenoids that can be triggered whenever the system pulls a vacuum on that specific line so all I would really have to do is bring power to the servos and use the existing vacuum line to trigger them.
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okay m8s

i have this door here. it's a pretty ordinary front door.

and like most ordinary front doors, i have to apply pressure to the door to close it tighter before i can lock it. it is impossible to lock the door simply by walking up and flipping the lock switch.

so i plan to eventually implement a smart lock on this door, but locking remotely would be infeasible.

so is it possible to...fix the door? or is this an expected problem with smart locks
>>
>>1137756
Your car looks retro futuristic as fuck, it's awesome

What you're talking about is basically making a vacuum triggered switch that trigger the electric servo right?
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>>1137743
Thank you!!
>>
>>1137761
Thanks, 80s digital futuristic stuff is always fuckin rad. And yes that's exactly what I mean, basically a sort of vacuum controlled relay I guess.
>>
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>>1137110
>>1137491

You just have a cheap version.
It should have a ratchet mechanism disallowing opening the handles until they have fully compressed the connector.
for storage, just squeeze the handles near closed and set aside.
when ready to open finish closing the die which releases the ratchet
>>
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What is this? I think it's something to do with electronics but I'm not sure.
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>>1137780
the split end looks like a relay contact adjusting too.
not sure about the pointy end
>>
If I apply the operating voltage to a HID lamp, will it eventually ignite or will I absolutely have to do the high voltage ignition?
>>
I'm building an adapter for a propane tank that involves reading the PSI of the tank with a pressure transducer. I would like to prototype this without blowing myself up, how can I best simulate propane tank pressure? I was thinking either an air compressor or water.
>>
>>1137780
Not positive, but I think it's a tool for wire wrapping electronics. The slotted end goes over the wire to bend it.
>>
>>1137806
Transducer specs, a resistor and a variable resistor.
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>>1136708
Yellow bolts and screws are passivated (don't know if this is the correct term in english). First you electroplate them with zinc and then add a passivation layer which is yellow. The yellow layer consists largely out of chromium.
>>
>>1137810
Specifications:
Working Voltage: 5VDC
Output Voltage: 0.5-4.5 VDC
Sensor material: Carbon steel alloy
Working Current: ≤10 mA
Working Pressure Range: 0-1.2 MPa
The Biggest Pressure: 2.4 MPa
Cable length: 19cm
Destroy Pressure: 3.0 MPa
Working TEMP. Range: 0-85 degrees
Storage Temperature Range: 0-100 degrees
Measuring Error: ±1.5 %FSO
Temperature Range Error: ±3.5 %FSO
Response Time: ≤2.0 ms
Cycle Life: 500,000 pcs
Application: non-corrosive gas liquid measurement
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>>1137822
>Working Voltage: 5VDC
>Output Voltage: 0.5-4.5 VDC
>Working Current: ≤10 mA
Ground---100ohms ---1Kohms potientiometer---100ohms---+5VDC
potientometer wiper will vary from .42V to 4.58V
>>
>>1137806
Isn't the pressure of a propane tank largely independent of the fill level as long as there is some liquid present?
>>
>>1137834
There are several factors at work including ambient temperature
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>>1137829
Perhaps you misunderstood what I'm looking for. How would a potentiometer help me?
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>>1137842
I was thinking it was a passive sensor. Guess not.
>>
I need to do a coolant flush in my car because I believe the heater core is clogged and the coolant is really old and of course the easiest way is with a garden hose, however my water has a lot of iron and minerals in it because it's well water and I don't want any of that crap in my cooling system. What is another way to positive pressure flush my cooling system that isn't draining and filing it 5 times or compressed air (don't have a compressor)?
>>
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I grinded an edelweiß out of an operculum using my dremel. Now I don´t know how to make the surface smooth and the edges a bit more round. The grinding-tools are so coarse. I would like a polished surface quality, though i don´t know if this is even possible.
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>>1138257
Nail files from your wife/gf cut to shape, popsicle sticks cut down to the shape you need and wrapped with various grits of sandpaper, possibly needle files except they'll be coarse. Go slow and good luck anon.
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>>1138236
go to the store, buy maybe 15 gallons distilled water, and an enema kit or a turkey baster. make sure you make eye contact with the cute cashier lady
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How can I improve the stability of a bookshelf?

I just got one similar to pic except there're 5 levels, the boards are thicker, it's very heavy and there's no back (can see the wall behind it). After putting it together I realized that it moves a lot, it takes noting to make it shake dangerously and it's still empty, I worry that when I start filling it up with stuff it's probably gonna open apart.
>>
>>1138310

Sounds like you're missing a piece.

It's going to be very unstable without a back, because the only point of stability is at the bottom.
>>
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>>1138310
Or you could put some boards underneath each shelf or easier would be to make a hard wood encasing on the outside
>>
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>>1138310

You can put some corner brackets on top and fix it to the wall. You can put the back in. You can brace the corners (and if necessary some of the shelves too) with steel flat L pieces on the back.
>>
>>1138310
Is it supposed to have a back? Are you ok with it having a back?
>buy a hardboard/HDF-board and nail it on the back
or alternatively
>buy something like an IKEA Observatör cross-brace
or
>span wire as an X between the corners
>>
>>1138272
Heh
>>
>>1137649
Build yourself a tool box. Whatever you do please get quality tools.

Get some slip joint pliers, metric and standard wrenches & sockets, a magnetic level (torpedo and 2 footer), a flat pry bar, putty/drywall knives, hammer, wire strippers, voltage tester/multimeter, 4' ladder, couple crescent wrenchs.

Never and I mean never let anyone borrow your tools - they will never come back.
>>
>>1138310
Its unstable because there's no backing. It wants to twist.

Take a cardboard box for instance, with all but 1 side open its pretty okay, but once you have two sides open any pressure and it twists.
>>
How viable would it be to make a small partition with noise-canceling acoustic foam attached to one side as a way to lower ambient noise from a computer fan?
Would I need to totally box-in the computer for the foam to work, or does it only need to be directional? I have no experience with acoustics honestly
>>
>>1138497
get a quieter fan
get a fan control that is temperature sensitive
put the fan somewhere else and duct air to computer
use liquid cooling and remote the chiller
and on, and on...
>>
>>1138512
I am looking into these options, unfortunately my PC case and it's multiple fans are cheap pieces of shit.
i have heard of using small amounts of noise canceling materials INSIDE the case though, my original idea to place it outside the case was dumb
>>
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I'm looking at a Central Machinery 4" X 36" belt and disc grinder. Are these things pieces of shit or is it a decent grinder?
>>
>>1138597
let off the tension on the belt if you plan to use the disc.

the motor is weak but not gutless
>>
>>1137730
>>1138455
thanks guys, toolbox sounds like a good project.

i've been trying to get second hand midrange tools (ryobi?)

are there some tools which are worth investing in, and others where price/brand doesn't really matter?
>>
>>1137760
>like most front doors
Mine doesn't do this. Do you have too much foam liner around the edges of the frame? Make sure it swings freely (tighten bolts/screws etc.), might help.
>>
>>1138650

Put the exyra money into brands like knipex and klein for your core hand tools.

Same for power tools. The big three for cordless are makita dewalt, and Milwaukee. I have the m18 fuel system and it's great, but I'd probably go with the Dewalt 60v if all my Milwaukee disappeared.

There is absolutely nothing worse than working against your tools on a job.

There are plenty of examples where low/mid range tools are no better than high end ones. It's important to identify where you do and don't need quality
>>
>>1138650
I've had good luck going into thrift stores for old tools. You can get some real nice old hand tools, but still find some pretty good power tools every now and then.
>>
>>1136699
The reason is because the manufacturer's don't want the liability when the whole thing falls on you like you were shaking a soda machine.
Just get a sheet or two of plywood and mount it to that instead of the floor. that will give it the leverage to not tip. add some carpet transition strips and stain/seal or paint to make it look nice when the bed is up.
>>
>>1137760
Yes. two options.
1) get wood filler and chisel, move the strike plate of the doorknob towards the closed direction of the door. This will make it harder to latch shut, but once latched will provide that much "slack" to the deadbolt because the door will be pulled tighter into the frame by the latch.

2) do the opposite, move the strike plate of the deadbolt towards the open direction of the door. you may need to chisel out some wood to make the hole open. Downside is that this means less wood is supporting the deadbolt.
Protip, to increase security, switch out the little 3/4" screws holding the strike plate with 3" screws. this only works if you have the (fairly standard) doorjamb within a framed hole, instead of directly framed into the wall. In order to kick in your door they will need to get through both 2x's instead of splitting off half of one.

Door locks are installed tight like that because A)>>1138973 is right, usually the foam door seal is added later and makes the door tighter than it was when the lock was put in or
B) I guess security because a door is harder to break down when there's no slack for someone to build momentum of the door before they hit the lock? so they have to fight both the inertia of the door and the lock instead of one at a time.
>>
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>>1137593
>what tool should one use?
drill+hammer
>>
>>1137649
Don't post that filth on our board
>>
>>1137806
Use air at lowish pressures. Put water under pressure and you've just made a bomb
>>
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Okay, stupid question:

How can one effectively remove gold lettering from a leather bound book?

Pic unrelated; just a random example.
>>
>>1139073

It's usually foil stamped so it's embossed into the cover as well as layered on.
When you remove it, it will still be visible as a shadow/ghost.
>>
>>1139089

Well, to me that would still be better than bright gold. Thanks for telling me, though.

Supposedly it's as easy as simply rubbing the letters off with isopropyl. I need to pick some up at the store tomorrow, and then I'm going to try. Something tells me it's not going to work, though.
>>
>>1139073
depends on wether you wanna keep the book or not.
>>
>>1139119
>simply rubbing the letters off with isopropyl

by the time you've used enough alcohol and pressure/friction to remove the lettering, you will probably have affected the dye in/on the leather
>>
I want to buy a ham radio.
any suggestions?

i'm a noob when it comes to ham radio - but i'll google how to use it once i set the buy order.
>>
where do i ask about prepping here on 4chan?
wouldn't kill to just store some food for relatively long duration.
>>
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Got an old timer for standard Australian power outlet, and I have a dodgy water heater that constantly heats (thermostat problem or something?), want to restrict heating to an hour a day so my next water bill isn't >$800 again.

Standard outlet here is 240v, 10amp. Water heater is 15amp, and the ground pin on it is longer than standard to prevent idiots from doing exactly the kind of dumb shit like I'm about to propose...

Could I carefully file out the ground hole (bottom vertical one) on the plug so it takes a 15 amp plug and use it like that? Will my fingers get shot and my dog blown up?

I haven't opened the timer yet, but it seems to be mechanical. I'm hoping the worst that would happen is some wire can't take it inside the timer and just melts, leaving me able to simply remove it and go back to manually switching it off at the breaker like I'm doing now.

>eventually I'll report it to the landlord, but I have severe anxiety and it'll literally take me months to build up the courage to phone them
>>
>>1139189
Plenty of prepping threads on >>>/k/ although the community is kinda divided over loving or hating them.
>>
Can i just solder a battery pack and switch on this bad boy? I need a little fan for an industrial sploof I'm trying to make
>>
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>>1139211
Forgot the pic
>>
>>1139211
Yep. Red wire is +, black is - and yellow can be ignored.
>>
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So my furnace's blower won't run on auto anymore, I guess it's something with the temperature regulator or whatever.
I'm a few beers deep and not in any mood to fuck with it, if I just leave the thermostat fan setting on "on" instead there's no risk of setting my house on fire or anything right?
I'm sure I'll get around to fixing it. At some point. Eventually.
>>
>>1139386
Fan control switch or fan control relay.
you didn't say what furnace you have or what control system is in the furnace.
>>
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>>1139403
>>
>>1139403
Sorry man, thought it was kind of a general question. I've got a Lennox from the 90's, and my suspicion is that it's the deal in the furnace that monitors the temperature.
When the fan control on my furnace is set to "on" it heats the house fine, but when it's on auto it hovers around 65 and nothing comes out of the vents.
The blower works, just not when it's on auto.
Sorry if this is incoherent or stupid, this isn't my area of expertise.
>>1139407
Yeah that thing.
>>
>>1139409
>Yeah that thing.
If it's an old one like those try banging on the panel where it's located a couple of minutes after the burner lights.
They get stuck sometimes and if it does come on then you know what the problem is and can get a new one.
>>
>>1139427
I should have said while in AUTO

for more specific advice show which one it is
>>
>>1139427
>>1139428
I'll take a look at it tomorrow, if I do need a new fan control how hard is it to replace yourself?
Keep in mind I'm mildly retarded.
Running it on "ON" nonstop won't hurt it or poison me in my sleep? Just going to increase my electric bill a bit I assume?
>>
>>1139431
Increase the electric bill a little but it blows cold air when the furnace isn't running.

No real danger
>>
>>1139197
Do you mean your power bill >800$?

If your water bill was over $800 you have a leak, not a bad thermostat. Thermostat might be fine, you're just losing all your water all the time
>>
>>1139436
Thanks for the info. I'll try to /diy/ but might cave and call the HVAC people. Either way thanks for the reassurance anon.
>>
>>1139437
>Do you mean your power bill >800$?
Yes... Power bill, not water bill. I don't even get water bills.
>>
>>1139197
First of all, restricting it to time isn't a very good way of going about it, I'd get someone in to fix the thermostat, or do it yourself. Now I'm from NZ and I always assumed we had the same plugs, but after googling it you guys have 5 different plug types, whereas we only have the grounded with flat ground and ungrounded. Those mostly make sense, but that round ground is stupid. Now I wouldn't recommend filing down the ground on that thing, because it will be too thin and probably quite delicate. Just use a 2-pin plug and poke a wire in the round ground socket, you can't get electrocuted from a ground connection as long as it's well fastened, so do a good job. Tinning a thick wire to make it solid might be a good idea. Anyway, have fun finding a way to electrocute yourself anyway.
>>
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How do I remove this red stain on the right? It's some sort of wax/plastic thing. Scratching it with my nail does nothing.
>>
>>1139491

>wax

are you an idiot? Wax = hot soapy water. avoid touching label or components.
>>
>>1139491
A bit of brake cleaner is sure to dissolve whatever's on the game cartridge. Along with the game cartridge itself. And your fingers.

In all seriousness, if it's a thermoset plastic, i.e. it won't melt but burn, you're probably screwed and will have to remove it with abrasion. If it's a wax or a thermoplastic, which melt, than your best bet is to increase the temperature of the cartridge until one of the two melts. Either way, you'll get one off the other. I would recommend removing the electronics from the plastic casing, and the sticker too if you can without ripping it. Otherwise cover it in blu-tack or something and dip the bottom in hot water. Wax melts at +40°C, or 313.15K, so if hot tap water doesn't do anything then water from a kettle will. There's no good way of reliably increasing the temperature up above that save maybe a temperature controlled soldering iron, with which I'd test what temperatures will melt the inside of the case and drop it by 20° or so and touch it to the stain. If it doesn't melt then abrasion it is. Honestly if the water doesn't help then it's probably not worth doing unless that's being sold for more than $30, and nothing worth buying a $250 soldering station over. You could try googling what plastic a cartridge case is made of and seeing what solvents don't attack it and trying those, but you aren't likely to own any of them unless you make a habit of adding DCM to your stir-fries.
>>
>>1137621
I'd use 3M's 5200. We use it on fishing boats in the Bering sea so it should work fine for your shower head.
>>
>>1139487
but after googling it you guys have 5 different plug types,
We... Do?

>round ground
What website were you looking at? Because none of the prongs are round on normal house plugs. You weren't looking at three phase plugs, were you?

This means that nothing else you said makes any real sense.
>>
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I want to wire my raspberry pi directly to a power bank so I can stick it all inside a gameboy.

I want to keep the ports accessible on the outer case so can't just use some small cable inside to connect things. I have tried connecting wires to the power out and ground on the back of the usb port on the pcb but this doesn't seem to be working.

Am I a retard for thinking I could just wire the battery directly to the raspi and ignore the charging circuit for powering the pi.

I'm very new to electronics and this is my first time messing around with batteries, trying to not burn my house down.
>>
>>1139555
Checked.
Link if you want it: http://accesscomms.com.au/ref_plugvariants/
>>
>>1139560
I've done similar things myself, though I never got a case to put the power pack and pi into. You can just solder wires onto the back of the USB output thing, but you'll also have to solder them to the USB input of the pi. It might just be easier to plug in a micro USB connector cut short and solder the leads on, as long as that wouldn't protrude.
>>
>>1139563
That is exactly what I am doing but for some reason it won't do anything with the wires on the back of the usb output.

So I'm thinking I could just skip all that shit.
>>
>>1139566
Got a multimeter? Because I'd check them. Also make sure you depressed the button to enter charging mode, most power packs I've seen (on BigClive's channel) have one.
>>
>>1139567
No button, it is the most basic one you can buy.
>>
>>1139573
Well I hope you didn't fry it!
>>
>>1137409
Pick a car, around early 2000s. Get the blower motor, blower resistor, and heater control switch, then wire them accordingly and use a car battery to power it.
>>
>>1139560
>wire the battery directly to the raspi
You need to wire the two USB ports together.
The power bank battery is lower voltage than the USB output on the power bank.
>>
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The old one fell off, so I had to get a new licence plate holder. I assume I have to break off the bottom part? What is a good way to do this?
>>
>>1139562
I've literally never seen that third one ever. I don't recall ever seeing the 20a plug either, but it's possible I have and thought it was just a normal plug.

Almost all plugs are 10a plugs, 15a is only used for a few things, personally only for my water heater and my mig welder, which is why I can't simply buy a 15a timer, they don't really exist.
>>
>>1138316
>>1138336
>>1138468
Actually there's a thin board (4 mm) that was supposed to go in the back through a small binary (similar to pic) but it really looks bad, I'd rather have it open.

>>1138325
This looks like it could work.
>>
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>>1139660
>This looks like it could work.
use those on top and bottom
use these on shelf boards
>>
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Could diy help me to forget her?
>>
>>1139628
The usb output is 5 volts I believe, the charger uses one of those 18050something cells, they are apparently around 4.5 volts.
>>
Floating in from /cgl/,
I'm renovating my craft room but I have an old computer table in there that's heavy and cumbersome. It has no screws I can undo and seems to be stapled together. Its halting my progress completely.
Suggestions on how to obiterate it so I can get it outside and into the trash?
>no sledgehammer available.
>am a small femanon so pushing it outside is not an option.
>it's made of shitty fake wood. Which is what's giving me problems
>>
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>>1139749

Get a 12-14" handsaw and go to town. It will obliterate the desk in no time. Just go pic related myself, cuts like a champ and 12 bux
>>
>>1139743
>they are apparently around 4.5 volts.
They max out a 4.2 and are considered discharged at 3.2 (normalized voltage 3.7)
The output board on the power pack has a boost circuit in it to make the port supply 5v during these variations.
The charge jack on the power pack has a controller for current and voltage regulation for charging.
You need to connect the USB power pins on the power pack to either the USB or power jack pins on the pi.
>>
>>1139690
Sure, we can even direct you where to get a new impact driver!
>>
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Anyone know how these exact cable connectors are called ? they go on special rails if that helps
>>
>>1139834
They look like a type of terminal block, mounted on a DIN circuit-breaker rail.
>>
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>>1137110
my have a ballchain, you can add one too or use rubber band
>>
>>1134954
on old chrome car bumper, prep like you would normally do clean/sand then a metal etching primer before paint. Automotive grade, wear a respirator, nasty shit
>>
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>>1139749
Use bread knife as saw!
>>
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>>1139749
>>1139750
Seconding this. If you're dealing with particle board, there's no reason to break out power tools. Just be VERY careful if you're not used to using a handsaw - new saws are incredibly sharp. Keep your other hand well clear incase the blade hops out of the cut, which can happen on the first couple passes.
>>
>>1136694
Not trying to be that guy but check the rotation of the panel. One of my watches did that and there was a tiny little cutout which wasn't aligned properly.

Oh and get two bits of scrap wood and a G clamp, sandwich the watch in between and screw the cunt as hard as you can.
>>
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Sup /sqt/

I have just kicked off the process of turning pic related into pic related, however I have hit my first hurdle.

How am I supposed to drill my holes through the bars so they are square? I have only drilled the top pilot holes so far but they also need to go through the bottom of the bar. These will eventually open up for M8 bolts, but I need the holes to be as straight and aligned as possible so the bolts aren't at funky angles.

Halp?
>>
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>>1140014
use a speed square dawg
>>
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I just noticed that my sectional garage door doesn't have any lags securing the end bearing plates (pic related) to the garage header. Will this become a problem or am I good? I've seen other people's garages and some have different end bearing plates to the ones I have, theirs are just a rectangle plate secured to the angle of the horizontal track and no way to secure it to the header so I think I might be OK.
>>
>>1140020
it's fine
>>
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>>1140018
So I googled how to drill a hole with a speed square and got no results. It appears that tool is for rapidly marking angles, hence speed square.
I did however come across this video, which demonstrates a few ways of making a drilling template of sorts. I'll use an offcut of my 20mm bar to make a drill guide on the drill press at work tomorrow and clamp it to the surface to use as a guide.

In a round about way, thanks. Have a progress shot. We shelf nao.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7yLMN-nMu0&t=4m0s
>>
What tend to be the most efficient ways to make a house more energy efficient?

Just slap on some solar?
Buy reverse cycle aircon instead of using pedestal fans in summer and space heaters in winter?
Get some decent insulation instead of nothing?
Replace other energy inefficient appliances with more efficient ones?

I am looking to save some dollarydoos with these crazy Australian electricity costs.
>>
>>1140014
just flip the thing over and drill from the other side.
>>
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Hey buttholes, I was gunna fill these with something like tonic water and put a waterproof black light inside to make some wacky lamps, but I've never ever known a good way of getting the residue off from poorly peeled off tape as seen on the massive bud bottle.

Has anyone tried making lamps this way before and what's your best way of getting rid of that tape residue
>>
I have a pic related for my HP printer/scanner (I only use it as a scanner). It seems to have stopped working. It wont power up the scanner and when it is plugged into a tested and working port the little LED on it does not turn on.

Any chance I could fiddle with it to get it working again without blowing up everything?
They are not excessively expensive off ebay but the shipping time is over a month.
>>
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Hey /diy/, got car question

I'm having a hard time removing the pin on this type of door hinge (pic related). Mine is from an 03 explorer and it's way tighter than pic. I've spent half an hour hammering away on 3 different explorers at the junk yard and the pins just start mushrooming at the point of impact instead of budging. Used a hammer and various metal rods as punches

Next time I go I'll bring penetrating oil, a real punch set and rubber mallet. Anything else I can do to get this motherfucker out?
>>
if i take a bunch of old cigar boxes, glue the bits together in layers like plywood, would it make for a good humidor? im thinking 3 layers or so thick.
>>
>>1140046
Insulation is the cheapest. Solar will be expensive.
>>
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Help me out, /diy/.
I want to make a shield for a LARP event because I'm not feeling like throwing 150 bucks for a piece of foam.
I had the idea to make a shield similar to pic related, covering the arm and the forearm. The thing is, I need to shape it in order to make it look acceptable.
So here's my problem: I need to use some kind of material that can be easily cut and bended (And possibly curved) to make the support of the shield.
It must be resistant enough to be able to take light hits without breaking or deforming.

I don't have a lot of tools (Well, I do have your regular common tools, but I don't have anything electric or for a specific usage.)
So according to you, what material could I use?
>>
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>>1140061
Use some coca cola bottles. There's some without tape, and even if there is, most of the time it comes off cleanly.
Plus, if there's people playing videogames coming over, they'll think it's a nice Fallout prop (Nuka Cola Quantum, glowing coke)
>>
>>1140014
>>1140031
Frankly, all holes should have been cut before assembling it using a drill press or something, for future reference. Glad you found a way to do it though.
>>
What's the fucking point of half-finger gloves? It offers no extra grip. In fact, you could say it gives you less grip on an object, because of the lack of a padding on your finger tips.
>>
>>1140061
For the paper labels like the bud, warm dishwater and a little scrubbing ought to do it. For the plastic labels that leave glue behind, use some goo gone, or lighter fluid, maybe gas if it's all you have.
>>
>>1140064
Cut/drill, and get some new pins. Or make your own new pins for the sake of diy.
>>
>>1140142
You get better control with fingerless gloves because the tactile feedback isn't fucked to shit and usually gloves thickness reduces dexterity and make your fingers bigger so you can't fit them in small places.
Try doing a jigsaw with a pair of rigger leathers on then come back and talk shit.
Fuck even typing on the computer becomes difficult with smaller key keyboard
>>
>>1140147
Junk yard won't let me take in drill or saw. Besides that where could i find such a random part for an old vehicle?

Don't have a lathe or the patience to make one for such a stupid little part
>>
I have a door that leaks a lot of light round the sides. I've tried weather strip but the door wasn't properly hung and the gap is uneven all the way round so the door won't shut properly and not leak light at the same time.
Could I spray the door with a release agent / use masking tape, then apply silicone caulk to the frame and put it all under pressure to create a perfectly sized seal?
>>
>>1140148
They're called roll pins, and you can get them at every parts store in the world. Just put your tools in a tool bag and don't tell them what's in there.
>>
>>1140189
Meant for
>>1140159
Obviously.
>>
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How do I fix this shit. Cat broke my lamp, I need my lamp.
I thought about finding a plastic square, then screwing it to the base, and screwing bigger screw through that plastic and that piece that broke off with a cylinder shape.

Any other suggestions?
>>
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How do I open this fucked without damaging him?
>>
>>1140062
Does it get warm when plugged in for a while? If so, then there might be a short somewhere. First of all, get inside the plug and socket to see if they're dusty, and make sure the contacts are clean. Also check that that wall socket works, don't want to be a moron here.

If you've got a multimeter, plug the power brick into your wall and test between the three plug ends for voltages, if you don't get a voltage equal to about what the power brick says, then that's the problem and you'll have to open it up. If you do, that's even worse, because you won't know what to look for. If you don't own a multimeter (or voltmeter), then you should open it up anyway.

Once inside, you'll be looking for anything unprofessional or dangerous looking, whether it be scorch marks, disconnected wires, bad insulation, pitted ICs, etc. Check both sides of the board.

If nothing stands out, you'll need to check the continuity of things, whether it be with a multimeter or an LED and a coin cell attached to some alligator clips. First test either end of the mains plug, then either end of the DC plug. Then either end of the inductors and transformers, watch that you're not putting the probes on enamel insulation instead of copper. Then check that the resistors have correct values. Capacitors too, if you have a decent meter. Posting a circuitboard image/circuit diagram is probably not a bad idea, I can help transliterate a picture if you want.

Also don't test the thing when it's plugged in, if that wasn't obvious.
>>
>>1140106
Back in the days before carbon fibre or fibreglass, aircraft engineers had their own high-strength lightweight composite. Balsa wood with aluminium sheet on either side. The aluminium on either side stops the balsa wood from bending, because the sheet would have to stretch, while the balsa wood keeps the aluminium sheets separated enough to get this advantage. I'm not sure what balsa wood costs, but I guess you could use MDF otherwise, but MDF is probably rigid enough that the gains from aluminium aren't enough to make much difference. If you want it to be light, go with the aluminium and balsa wood technique, you'll be able to bend the sheet into that shape with a little linework, and cut/score the balsa wood into the flat sections that sit under it. You really don't need thick aluminium, just thick enough that it doesn't stretch.
For MDF to be this effective, it would weight twice the amount, but would cost significantly less. You'd need some timber bracing behind it to get the right shape though, making it heavier still.
>>
>>1137600
Where is it leaking from?

If its just out of the arm to head connection use thread tape and pipe dope
>>
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>>1140159
>Besides that where could i find such a random part for an old vehicle?

Use a stainless steel bolt and nylon-insert lock nut.
>>
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What is the white component with the black square and 6 contact points? It has something to do with antennas, I just don't know what.
>>
>>1140339
Looks like it might be an optocoupler for over-voltage protection, but there are a lot of 6-pin chips out there mate. Does it have a part number on it?
>>
>>1140278
>Also check that that wall socket works, don't want to be a moron here.
Yeah definitely already checked that. Tried other sockets too and no dice.

Does not seem to get it warm but I am about to head out so I will leave it in and double check if it has warmed up when I get back.
>>
>>1140064
big c-clamp and small deepwell socket
>>
>>1140102
Realistically what kind of insulation could I get in a place that has wood outer walls, a small gap and then plasterboard inside walls.
Just people filling up the gap with foam?

The roof is as bad if not worse, corrugated metal then little to no gap which only contains the electrical wiring for the roof lights and then the wooden ceiling.
>>
>>1140234
Are you the guy from that /b/ thread about the catacombs?
>>
>>1140159
Take the whole assembly. Those two bolts on the body side hold the bracket that the pin goes into come out.
>>
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>>1140444

less than a minute with google
>>
>>1140459
The walls are around 3 1/2" so I guess they are thick enough. It wont fuck up an old house that was never made with insulation in mind right? The wiring in here is already dodgy as fuck (I have been told that if I ever call in an electrician they would be legally obligated to rewire a lot of it because it no longer even remotely matches code) and I feel like insulation might result in the whole place going up in flames.
>>
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>>1140189
>>1140339
After some googling I now know the part is called the door check, it's not the door hinge like I think some of you were thinking of. Roll pins might work for door hinges or some checks but my explorer has a machined pin with a tip that will be hard to replicate tho I guess it would be possible but janky with a screw, spacers and locknut. Pic related is what it looks like. Can't find the individual part online or the whole assembly for my model.

>>1140431
I like this, thanks

>>1140458
this is probably the best plan now that I think about it. If I push the pin out once it might not be as tight a 2nd time. The whole door check shouldn't be too hard to remove.
>>
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>>1140499
>The whole door check shouldn't be too hard to remove.
I'm told it's easier if you use a swivel socket.
Not a swivel extension - the swivel in the socket kind.
>>
Hey /diy/ I want to get myself a multimeter that I can use to check the electronics in my guitars. I'd also like to be able to use it to check for any problems that my pc may kick up at some stage. I had a bit of a look online, and found a guy on youtube that basically said any multimeter under €50 will kill my father and rape my mother. Are the units on amazon for 10-20 quid really that bad or would they do for the light use I have planned? Thanks guys.
>>
>>1140611
A cheap meter from the local hardware store is just fine for basic testing.
>>
>>1140613
Sweet, thanks for the info.
>>
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Can anyone know how can I blinky in a NRF51 using apache's mynewt? Total noob here, the official "get started" is very confusing for me...
>>
I'm repairing an iMac to resell, and I know it's a ram issue, and I know how to change it.. but what I don't know and can't find with google (I just get a walk through on the replacement) is there a way to check which ram stick it is without having to fully rebuild the entire iMac each time?
>>
>>1140616
Keep an eye out on places like gumtree, I got a 'professional' bench top one (it's still portable mind you) for £10 / $15~ fully working with all leads and the manual
>>
>>1137780
Soldering tool for holding leads and moving parts, probably came with a soldering iron
>>
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Got another car question. The upper ball joints on my 03 explorer need replacing. Mechanic quoted me at $400. Is this something I can do myself with parts from the junkyard or should I leave it to the experts? I'm pretty handy but the only car work I've ever done was replacing my door. I'd love to get more experience though.

https://youtu.be/7HdJ8DgvNmY
>>
>>1140672

Do a '03 Explorer upper ball joint replacement' youtube video search...watch videos, some are quite good...decide if you're competent enough/have tools/not a fag...

>Profit???
>>
How should I fix a single length of fence that has fallen
>>
>>1140672
>Is this something I can do myself with parts from the junkyard
I wouldn't go to the trouble to remove one and put it on my vehicle not knowing how long it will last.

You can get one for $35 shipping included

Can you do it?

You linked to the video and saw how it's done.
It's up to you to decide whether you can do that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HdJ8DgvNmY
>>
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How to fix busted cupholders? This used to have a plastic ring that folded inwards when you slid the cup holder back. The ring was held in place by a plastic pin that snapped off. Not looking for an elegant solution, just wanna have somewhere to put my coffee.
>>
>>1140672
> ball joints
> scrap yard
They are worn out? It's right at the far end of the service items, not exactly an oil filter but you wouldn't pull a timing belt from a scrap yard would you? ... Would you? Maybe you would. I would be too embarrassed. Then again last time i was at a u pull there was a polish guy with a handful of bulbs. Wtf.
>>
>>1140771
What's that a V70?
Drove around for 4/5 years completely unaware it was even there. Pisses me off just thinking about it.
>>
Im going to buy a universal laptop charger because a emergency(The charger of a Sony VAIO i was fixing died for no reason) tomorrow from walmart.

If the laptop says it uses 19.5V but the charger only has 19V and 20V options which one should i use?
>>
>>1140695
>>1140687
I understand the tools I need include a ratchet, extension, and the correct sockets. Do I need 2 jacks or 4? Anything else i should get? Would a camber bolt kit really save me from a front end alignment?

>>1140834
thanks for the laffs. You make sense, I was just happy that I got a door for $70 when other places charged $250 or more.
>>
What is the long spirit level called I have been trying to find one online and it seems to go by to many different names but never not in a 3 pec set.
So far I found pocket, pen, stick and compact spirit level as names so now I got no idea.
>>
>>1140836
850
>>
>>1141047
>What is the long spirit level called I
torpedo level
>>
>>1141016
>Do I need 2 jacks or 4?
You can actually get by with one jack just fine.
Place the jack under the lower arm as close to the wheel/tire as reasonable.
(not touching the tire)
Make sure you are jacking on the arm and not something that can be damaged.
(grease fitting, etc)

>Would a camber bolt kit really save me from a front end alignment?
The camber is currently set by shims. Add or remove shims to adjust camber.
The camber adjust bolt allows the person setting the alignment to do it by loosening the nut and turning the adjust bolt left or right to adjust camber. Tighten the nut while holding the bolt and done. No need for shims.
If you can't do an alignment yourself you won't know the difference.
The alignment shop may appreciate it but will probably charge the same price as when using shims.
>>
>>1141377
>>1141016
>put jack under arm
99% of the time this is a bad idea. There are special jack points designed for the SOLE PURPOSE of jacking up the car in most cases. Look them up in your manual, don't get squashed by your car or break some expensive part because you were lazy.
>>
>>1141388
Not trying to jack the truck up - trying to jack ONE wheel up and hold it up while part of the suspension is removed.
It's done this way. If you don't know how to do the job - don't comment.
>>
>>1141398
>>1141377
sweet I'll get 1 jack then. thanks for advice.

I see so the camber bolts make adjusting my camber easier. Never done an alignment, is it worth it? Found a few shadetree mechanics on youtube with different methods from string to specialized tools. Though I would guess that a digital level fixed to a straight edge that was the same length as my rims would be the perfect measuring tool wouldn't it (give or take some adjustments)?
>>
>>1141561
Also, worth it to get the official ford service manual?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Ford-EXPLORER-Mercury-MOUNTAINEER-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-Set-W-EWD-/401239637241?hash=item5d6bbefcf9:g:2VYAAOSwcUBYSO58&vxp=mtr
>>
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Im building a workbench for reloading and other /k/ related activities. I have decided that i want to build the bench and then place some old vintage magazine advertisments on the workspace and then put some sort of clear coat over them to work on without ruining the paper ads while sealing them in. Would polyurethane be the way to go or is there a better sealant that will hold up better? Its not like the workbench will be seeing tons of abuse, but it will definitely be worked on a lot.
>>
>>1141607
Whatever you use, it will wear through eventually if you are routinely working on metal objects on it.

Put your fucking vagina away, stop treating your workspace like fashion, and put your ads on the wall instead like a normal person.
>>
>>1141619
Gee thanks anon! So helpful.
>>
>>1141622
Well what do you want me to say? Go ahead an lay down 7 layers of poly and see how long it lasts if you want, not my time or resources being wasted. Good luck.
>>
>>1141625
You could help me out and tell me what kinds of sealants there are or different ones hold up. Im not going to be working on the bench with a screwdriver and hammer, its just a platform to set things while i use a press. Im not asking to be completely spoonfeed, but at least give me some ideas or leads on something i know nothing about instead of being a pretentious dick.
But just forget it. Ill just go to home depot or lowes. At least there i know im conversing with a babbling retard and not some asshole who acts like hes too good to give tips or help someone out
>>
>>1141607

Cast it with with epoxy resin ... don't go bashing it with a hammer.
>>
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I have this. Idk what I could repurpose it into?.. The motor on the label actually looks like its got some balls. (next post)
>>
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>>1141720
I've tried selling it. And nobody wants a corded edger. Even tho it works good. It sounds like its got some reduction gearing on the inside its really grindy.
>>
>>1137624
>>1137634
>>1137611

https://www.iwiss.com/ct-100-lever-tube-expanding-tool-copper-pipe-expander-kit/
>>
>>1138597

They're all chinkshit tbf
>>
>>1132004
Gull here
We have a handmade thread but it's usually geared towards cgl stuff, but if you have general questions about how to put a garment together or you're looking for resources it'd be a good place to ask
>>
>>1141654
Thanks anon
>>
>>1141607
Get a sheet of Lexan the size of the bench top.
Use Scotch Spray Mount sparingly on the back of whatever you want to position on the bench
Place the Lexan (don't use Plexiglass) on the top and hold in position in any manner you choose.
(small screw in each corner, edge band, etc.)
When you fuck it up, you just get a new sheet of Lexan and it's as good as new.
>>
I have to protect a large, thin sheet of weak material that under no circumstances must be pierced or deformed while adding the minimum of weight and thickness. Am I right in thinking carbon fibre, rather than Kevlar composite is the correct material for the job?
>>
>>1141768
This
>>
>>1141007
20
>>
In my dining room there is a ceiling fan/light combo. We've all seen them.

My girlfriend wants a dimmer switch to control the light level and I've read this is a no-no as it will cause the fan motor to burn out.

The switch to control the whole deal is a simple single pole switch with no wires separate from the fan or the lights. I've seen many devices from wireless remotes to fancy switches but I just need the cheapest replacement I can find if possible. So far I've just taken 2 bulbs out to keep her happy and I'm going to Home Depot tomorrow to deal with those waterheads if I don't get a logical response from you guys.

Anything to recommend?
>>
How would I go about making a round jewellery box from a single piece of hardwood? Ideally I figure I'd need a lathe but unfortunately I don't have one or have access to one. Can I rig up some sort of jig to my router table? The diameter will be ~120mm.
>>
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>>1141835
Go to Home Depot or Lowe's or similar. They have a receiver that goes inside the fan housing.
The transmitter replaces the wall switch. (wire nut connects wires removed from switch.)
The light control on the transmitter has full range dimmer.
The fan control on the transmitter are usually three speeds. (leave fan speed switch on fan oh HI)
Some prefer just a hand-held remote and not remove the wall switch. (just leave it on)
I have both.
>>
>>1141853
hand-held remote
>>
>>1141835
black box goes inside fan housing
>>
>>1141853
>>1141854
>>1141856

Thanks for the input man, I'll take it to HD tomorrow.
>>
>>1134416
Just get the next size up that you can find, it should be fine. For most cases, it won't matter, in this case it's probably just that 32 AWG was a good size to work with and it's big enough for whatever the device needs. If you're basically just plugging something in, bigger is always safe. If you're trying to do something were you actually care about the material properties instead of just making sure it's connected, then you can worry about getting the perfect size.
>>
>>1134642
The way I've heard it told is that heating the bolt works too, because it can't expand in all directions because of the nut constraining it, but when it cools it still contracts from all directions. Obviously fucked the bolt, but if you just need enough expansion/contraction to break it free, should work.

This is of course assuming that you let it cool before removing it. If you're heating it and removing it hot, yeah, your thing with hot nuts is better.
>>1134796
Fix it, throw it out, or do some artsy shadowbox shit with it. It's a cheap consumer electronic that doesn't contain anything overly interesting or unique enough to warrant trying to repurpose(including probably writing software for it) over dropping $20 on a Chinese-made gadget designed for that single purpose.
>>1136499
Yeah, definitely don't cut it, it 100% should be tempered and would just go pop. Look up sliding glass doors breaking on YouTube, they randomly explode sometimes. Happens because shit gets on the edge of the glass, and something barely scratches the glass, or puts a bit of force on the wrong face. A thick layer of completely cured silicone is probably your best option, then frame that however you want. Wood with a router is probably easiest.
>>1136860
The only thing circular saws are better than other options for is the portability. Don't get me wrong, everyone should own one, but for your project, there's no way you'll do it better with a circular than a miter.
>>
>>1136732
What do you need the angle grinder for? Cordless angle grinders are for occasional lighter duty(Or about 5 minutes of heavy duty for the new Dewalt Flexvolt stuff) without having to run an extension cord. If you'll have a place to plug it in or need a powerful tool, skip cordless.
>>1136874
Dewalt/Makita for around $300-$500. I don't know if there's a crazy high-end for miter saws, and for cheaper stuff, just make sure it's all nice and rigid, everything clamps together and stays put, nothing flexy where it shouldn't be, etc.
>>1137100
What's your use-case that oily is affecting?
>>1137398
What >>1137442 said with a fine toothed hole saw, and run it fast rather than giving it a chance to bind, but for safety's sake, make sure that how you're holding the drill lets it pull your finger off the trigger if it binds, rather than just busting your wrist. My 18v drill claims 1,200in/lbs of torque, which is plenty for wrist busting.
>>1140061
Acetone, xylene, toluene, denatured alcohol, whatever should work. Hit up the paint section of Lowe's, they have all sorts of solvents. My dad uses acetone to clean off bottles for his homebrewing.
>>1136732
>is it worth it to buy knipex
Depends what you're doing and which Knipex tools. Pliers wrenches, flat out yes. Channel lock pliers, their Cobras are god tier, but they're also about 3x the cost of Irwin's Groovelock stuff, which isn't garbage. Their cutter/clipper/nipper type stuff is highly regarded. Skip anything else, there's better, cheaper, or both. NWS makes some top-tier pliers(A couple of which Irwin even rebrands, their German made stuff).
>>
>>1139560
Most little power banks only supply 1-1.5A, which might be enough, but the RasPi 3 requires slightly higher voltage to be stable - like 5.1V - a really bad design choice. I've had multiple power banks capable of 2.1+ A work, but they were often giving me warning signs of low voltage.

And "wiring it up" is actually a really dumb idea, because the RasPi has no power switch. Get a USB cable with a switch in it, or a switch that just goes from the USB port to the Raspi. Don't fuck around with it.
>>
>>1141561
>Never done an alignment, is it worth it?
its worth paying the $60 or so for a pro to do it right if you like your tires
>>
what the HECK search terms do I use to find a non-power hand router
>>
Some fucker tried to force open my external door with a screw driver and fucked the lock, i still can open and close it from the inside but the handle is broken too, it fell appart.
I just hotfixed it with some glue and closed it from the inside while i am out.

Im looking to replace it, what brands are reliable? The current one is FANAL.
Looking in amazon mexico i saw Dexter locks have good reviews.
Or should i buy a Phillips electric lock?
Are "+" locks reliable?

The locks will face more brute forcing than someone trying to open them.

I guess i should make a thread later on when im in my home.
>>
>>1142138
The one i had in mind.
https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/aw/d/B00ZP3W8XY/
20 MXN=1 USD.
>>
>>1142140
Wong side, good that the one i need is cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/aw/d/B00ZP3W8XY/
>>
What can I use to drill through a broken tap?
>>
>>1142105
>non-power hand router
routers are multi-purpose to a degree
the hand tool to replace it depends on your intended use.
>>
>>1142166
an EDM machine
>>
>>1142168

Would a screw extractor bit work?
>>
>>1142170
The tap is harder than a bit or an extractor or one of the combo tools.

What is the tap stuck in?
>>
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>>1142173

Steel. I've already grinded it down flat.
>>
>>1142178
You're probably just 'fucked'
One way is to remove material around the tap and use something to grip it and back it out..
You fill in the removed material and try again.
Another is to drill from the opposite side and work from there.
If it's just the tip of the tap sometimes it can be fractured and the pieces dug out.
If it's an impossible to find part you can use an unguided hole saw to remove a plug of the steel and put a threaded bushing in the hole
>>
>>1142184

Can I do what this guy is doing without a drill press?

https://youtu.be/1uwz7BhAWZE?t=7m1s

@ 7min

The tap is stuck in a hole that goes through the steel plate, so there's no worry about drilling too far.
>>
>>1142186
I saw he failed several times but finally got it out with the carbide burr.
If you have one small enough give it a try.
I'd use cutting fluid while trying to remove it.
I always use a product called Tap-Magic when tapping.
Great stuff and made locally to me but available world-wide.
>>
>>1142191

Yea I screwed up and didn't use the 3 in 1 oil and I took a trip to snap city. Hopefully I can get it out with a simple hand drill.
>>
>>1142192
I wish you good luck - seriously. I know how disheartening it can be to break a tap or screw.
>>
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>>1142192
>3 in 1 oil
If you ever used this once, you'd never tap without it again.
http://www.tapmagic.com/
>>
>>1137600
wow spend $3 fucking dollars and go buy a new one
>>
>>1142178
First try needlenose pliers,
Then break it apart with a hammer & punch
>>
>>1141850
Anyone?
>>
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Hi! I have a general doubt about PIC microcontrollers: I'm learning to use C to program pic relate. And I've google a lot to no actual result for documentation about the functions available. I've come to find some code examples, but no official doc's.
Does anybody knows where to find this?
>>
>>1142439
The answer depends on what compiler you're using. If it's MPLAB XC8, just Google its user guide.
Generally you get the C standard library of some vintage, with some modifications - meaning that some generic C library reference gets you pretty far.
>>
I bought a router and i would like to use it to cut mortises. Is it necessary to buy an edge guide to do that or can i just use a homemade hardboard + straight piece of wood type guide?

I could get the porter cable guide which has nice fine adjustment but i dunno if it's really worth the 50 bucks.
>>
>>1142305

I might have tried drilling out the steel where the flutes are so doing any of that is out of the question right now.

Apparently cobalt drill bits will go through it like butter.
>>
>>1142509
I have been using a set from Vermont American for about twenty years.
Vermont American Hinge Mortising Template Set (23457)
I paid less than $10 for the package which has 3-1/2" and 4" guides in the box
When I found I was almost exclusively using the large radius hinges instead of the square type, I filled in the inside corners with my welder and ground a matching radius for the hinges.
I didn't like the exposed mortised area not being covered by the hinge.
There is nothing fancy about them.
They are steel plates with the proper cutouts and some guides for set-back and fixing holes - that's it.
But they can still be bought for $10.
I made my guide for my router from a washer and a piece of copper tubing - free junk I already had.
>>
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Is this a sufficient set up for a jumper wire?
>>
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Would I be a wanker if I got some of these to chuck on my letterbox?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3M-CLASS-1-REFLECTIVE-HOUSE-LETTERBOX-NUMBER-STICKERS-NEW-/322182005069?hash=item4b038b414d:g:VwAAAOxykmZTMXKh

I am tired of people not being able to find my place.
>>
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What's a good way to glue cork? I'm thinking of buying a block like this and shaping it into a roughly circular stopper, and I think I'll have to glue two together to get one that's large enough.
>>
>>1142883
Go for it, sounds like a good idea.

>>1142896
Wood glue. Cork is wood, and the thin kinds of wood glue will get into the cracks and grip well.
>>
Español castellano donde? Nee
>>
>>1137398
I know this is two weeks after the fact, but when I was hole sawing PVC pipe I ran it backwards. The friction chews it off just fine.
>>
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What is this and why is water dripping out of it?
>>
>>1143178
(The hole in the ceiling not the showerhead)
>>
>>1143179
I assume it's a vent to help mitigate fogging on mirrors/windows when running hot water. The water dripping could be the condensation that formed around the inside, and collecting at the edge.
>>
>>1137593 here.

I knew the only answer I would get was hammer but seriously is there a better (read faster) way?
>>
>>1143358
>is there a better (read faster) way?

I needed to replace the plywood in tge transom in my aluminum boat.
To do this I was going to have to remove and replace about twenty 1/4" aluminum rivets.
I sacrificed one of the tool inserts for my air chisel to make a rivet hammer.
I use a piece of 1-1/2" round steel stock to make an anvil.
The preparation work to replaace the wood took several hours spread over a couple of days but the actual setting of the rivets only took a few minutes.

If you have an air-powered rivet tool and compressed air on hand it will be much faster than a hammer.
You don't have the tool or you wouldn't have asked the question so the other option is a hammer.
You 'could' use a hydraulic press but your rivets would probably bend over instead of mushrooming unless you made a special holder for them.

just use a hammer and something for an anvil
>>
I'm installing a new water heater in my house and have everything good except the ground wiring. I'm a little confused because there are two ground screws, one pictured and one on the metal covering. I don't know what it looked like on the old unit because I wasn't the one who uninstalled it.
Does this look right, both grounds on this screw?
>>
File: IMG_20170312_145425174-1024x1820.jpg (279KB, 1024x1820px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1143564
Goddamn it, pic here
>>
>>1143564
Yes, it's correct
>>
>>1143574
Fuck, guess not. What now?
>>
File: IMG_20170312_160732444-1024x1820.jpg (352KB, 1024x1820px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1143583
pic
>>
>>1143584
I know for a fact that your ground wires aren't the problem, but I don't know what is. Not the other guy, just putting in my two cents.
>>
What is the cheapest/easiest way to cut stainless steel, using common household tools?

Bear in mind that I'm cutting a very small piece of stainless steel. Less than 1" in width, and 3/16" in thickness. So that means I can't use any large power tools.

I'm also trying to cut a hole on the inside, not from an edge.

My current plan is to slowly work at it with a drill & dremel, but I was wondering if there was a better way?
>>
>>1143587
I'll take all the help I can get. Would it be a bad idea to try switching the red and black?
>>
>>1143590
That would be my next step, yes. I hate home electrical, scares the shit out of me.
>>
>>1143591
Reversed wires. No breaker kick this time. Time to wait and see. Thanks yall.
>>
Where do I get stretchy cord like this? Home depot? Gonna make a punching accuracy trainer with a hat and a tennis ball
>>
>>1143589
Stainless is tough to work with
Don't let it get hot, it could work harden.
>>
>>1143583
>What now?
>>1143587
>your ground wires aren't the problem,

I'm the other guy. Your ground wires had nothing to do with it.

Show pic of thermostat and safety breaker on side of water heater.
Show pic of OTHER end of romex where it connects to power.
>>
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>>1143566
>pic here

The water heater is wired for 230V
RED is Line
BLACK is Line
GREEN in earth
(230V water heaters don't use neutral)

Your romex is for 115V
BLACK is line
WHITE is neurtal
BARE is earth
It's technically not allowed but still common to use this romex for 230V water heaters
BLACK romex from one side of dual 30A breaker to BLACK on water heater.
WHITE romex from other side of dual breaker to RED on water heater.
BARE in romex from bonding/neurtal in breaker box to water heater cabinet.
The ground/earth on the romex at the water heater usually goes to the screw on top of the cover plate which is made it two pieces.

From looking at the damage pic, >>1143584
you had a bare wire on either RED or BLACK where the wires were stripped back at the sheath.
The bare line wire touched the bare earth wire.
If you examine them with the breaker off you will see the problem.
Pic related - shows pinched/cut insulation
>>
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>>1143566
>I'm a little confused because there are two ground screws, one pictured and one on the metal covering.

Google is your friend.
>>
>>1143758
He already fixed it, re-re.
>>
How do you get rid of those brown bathroom stains that don't go away even with mild bleach products?
>>
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Roller latches vs magnetic latches?

I need to put some latches on my pantry door because the old ones are truly old and no longer work. I also want to chuck some in my linen cupboard because it has a habit of opening itself.
What are the real-use difference between these? The prices are the same at my local shop, so I can go with either.
>>
>>1143955
Had good luck with magnets. I've found rollers to be near completely fucking useless and irritating. But I've moved on to the hinges that keep the doors shut and think they're the best option.
>>
>>1143955
Rollers are smooth but (the metal bit) can easily deform, which results in issues closing it. I have 8 of these cabinets, and 6 of the pins are bent by the previous homeowner which means I basically have to slam/force them shut. Magnets are noisy and clack.

Honestly, if you don't mess with the pins or if they're out-of-the-way, rollers would be fine.
>>
>>1144023
The old latches on the pantry doors are rollers that have deformed to the point where they no longer "grab" the male part of the latch, so it slides open by itself quite easily.
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