Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5376610
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Email: [email protected]
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
work continues. I want to Nagano the shit outa this build. High heels for eerybody!
Better be good.
Havent even opened my Extreme Blast Mode to check the contents yet.
So I just got this in. I've got the R2/R5 kit coming in a week or so, and Phasma coming hopefully at the end of next month.
First time with a model kit since I was like 8. I did get some nice Xuron cutters, but do y'all have any tips for not fucking it up? I'm thinking that I'll start with the R5 set since I'm not all that hot for a perfect Skippy the Jedi Droid.
Also, I can't figure out if these need any glue.
It works, very fucking well. Usually used to for bigger seams on stuff like resin.
Warning: If you do this don't let the shit touch your skin. However it works it does so using heat and the shit gets really hot, really fast. Unless you enjoy chemical burns.
Starting on this other fella tonight. Kinda wish my first build of the year weren't the same as one I did a week ago, but whatever. Got some Gundams on the way soon anyhow.
Grabbed this from TOM because I had a coupon for 10 bucks and the pilot looks hot. It's a lot cooler than I expected and I recommend buying it. The amount of plastic for $13 is impressive and makes me wonder why the main HGUC line is so expensive compared to these IBO kits. It was a snap build with nothing but nippers and knife and I wish I hadn't done that. The kit had some big ass, tough nubs, like on the backpack and some leg armor that I ended up trying to whittle with the knife only to gouge plastic.
On a related note, does anyone actually use the stickers? They always fall off for me so I stopped using them. Maybe they'd be better if they were sealed with a topcoat.
And on a side note, the Xuron 2175ET nips well but the finish isn't much better than the various cheap wire cutters I've tried. It only comes out better once in a blue moon on small gates if you're lucky.
Iirc most of the women pilots in ibo are harem whores. As for the stickers i only use the eye stickers and the rest as masking for paint jobs. And nippers i have generic brand and use my knife+sand paper afterwards
Current project, nothing too fancy, just some drybrushing. Still needs topcoat buts its been way too cold here.
Also, what should I start next? Any other recommended kits. An advantage to living in the land of the rising sun, its easy to find them.
Im not opposed, though Id have to look into cost of international shipping and etc. I find all kinds of P-Bandai in Akihabara though, that im not sure you can even get in the states and it would be cool to help people trying to get desired kits.
You're right on all fronts but the most glaring issue is that you just winged it, man. Beside the edges, nothing about it looks natural, whether as damage or dirt. It looks just like what it is, randomized pats from a dry or slightly damp brush with black paint on it. See if you can't get some of that shit off, 'cause the model itself seems to have been put together quite well. Check out some official (or /good/ fan) art from the series, as well as nicely rendered kits online for reference. Study actual worn metal, see how it degrades. The edges are better off looking silver than black, because the paint or top layer is scraping off revealing the "un-touched" material beneath it. & there's rust-like effects to consider as well, areas where you would find giant bolts, attached spikes, joints, etc, the black runs down them, (I dunno the science of it, maybe it's caused by water) as opposed to just being scratched on sporadically. & yes, of course, less is more. Additionally, you can fuck the thing up a little bit, make bullet holes with heated pins, warm the plastic & dig into it a little with a blunt tool, etc, & dry brush those with black, & wipe away it away quickly so it gives the appearance of burns or ash-like residue. Don't be shy with the Zaku, they're grunts who get busted up, after all.
Thanks for the feedback, trying to give it a wipe now. Thinner seems to get it fairly clean, and I'm digging through modelers-g to find a build to emulate. Scared to try battle damage just yet, maybe next kit,
Well, what are some kits people are hunting for? I can keep an eye out for them next time I go off base and give a quote on cost. Yen is pretty weak against the dollar, which is nice.
Actually just saw that the other day. Thought about getting it for my wife, but the remembered she isn't quite as much a nerd as me. Ill take a picture with price sticker next time.
The 2175ET are workhorse nippers I find. Not the sharpest cut around but the things never dull it seems. I've had the same pair for about 4 years and used it for resin nubs, thick pla plate, parts cutting, etc and they still cut as well as I remember then.
Went to yodobashi camera in kyoto yesterday. It was pretty cool seeing the gunpla displays, had no idea sazabi was a hueg hg.
I bought a GM, some gundammarkers and a 2000 yen godhand nipper
Suffice to say, the god hand does a good job at reducing discolouration from nubs by a lot, although you can still see the nub remnants, just less obvious.
Picked up some ic pins to detail my Zaku, looks pretty good I think. Should I paint them or do you think the bare metal looks nice (none of it is painted so far)?
Got some of my first Gunpla built over Christmas break.
Gonna be finishing the Gundam tonight though
Pretty good start to the day! Please help, I have a problem.
Got everything I need to start my Styley-17G custom. Wish me luck!
Still looking for some good 1/12 WWII weapons for her. There's an M1 bazooka resin kit on HLJ, but it's on backorder, so I might just have to steal the Boys AT rifle from my Lynette. I'd kill for a 1/12 Browning M2, and I haven't quite decided what to do with her head yet. I'm half considering trying to find a cowboy hat or maybe a Rosie the Riveter style headband.
Two weeks after Christmas and my Secret Santa order finally comes in. Thanks British Columbia bro!
You might be right, though I still haven't settled completely on what to do with her head anyway. Cutting down her twintails a bit and tossing a cowboy hat on her was just the first idea I had that I didn't hate.
I really want to make that Crossbones one mainly because I live near the ocean and my city's colors are orange and black, and our high school mascot was the Pirates.
It's just meant for me ya know!?
I think she's got some old sci-fi charm. Hope to finish in nearest time.
Got Hammer Rock and two other 1/144 scale zoids for Xmas and finally put this one together. I haven't figured out how to do the decals yet, but I'm in no hurry. What a great little kit.
I also got Berserk Fuhrer and a Blackhorn too, but they're big and I'm not ready for them yet.
Custom General pointed me here.
I recently bought a model kit that needs a little bit of painting to look as good as it can be. What are some tips or resources you guys can point me to since I've never painted plastic before, such as paint types, how to apply, etc..
Here is a link so you can see what I bought:
>straight up masochist anon.
Well, nope. On the other side I can possibly be a sadistical person, who likes his model to suffer. Or maybe it's some stupid way to attention-whoring. Or even just like Michelangelo said - "Every block of stone has a statue inside it and it is the task of the sculptor to discover it.".
Wait until I finished it, srsly.
Didn't have time to do any gunpla, but I did get to finish this.
Aside from some additional painting (all I've done so far is panel lining) these are done for now. Fun little dudes to do. Oh, I've still got the "pilots" to deal with, but I'm afraid I'll fuck them up so I'm gonna hold off for a while.
Do they have PDFs for the HMM Berserk Fuhrer instruction manual anywhere? I was hoping to email Koto for a replacement gate on my Berserk Fuhrer I got a few months ago but I think I lost the manual.
Thanks in advance
some new guy just started at my office and he has a kit displayed in his cubicle. i walked by his desk and glanced at his gundam and gave him a condescending chuckle. why do people bring their autism robots to work?
Used a little putty to add some texture to the otherwise blank wooden log that comes with burikimaru.
Sorry not the best picture.
Finishing up my Sinanju after a long break. Have to topcoat but Im wondering If I should leave off the decals.
Another question is if I should use silver for the tubing around the waist(that I'm avoiding). I'm thinking a darker grey for the weapons but I never know what to do with the weapons. Thoughts?
heres the link
Revive Freedom is a great HG. Having built mainly HGs recently and moving to my first RG amd MG soon, I'm ready for greater posability.
I didn't post it but the point is that you can't post builds that are completely sub par and then try and justify criticism as "I don't care lol gunpla is freedum!!" Its all well and good to fuck up while learning but posting it on the net and then rejecting criticism is sorta dumb.
Yeah I got some recasts, quality looks good from what I've seen.
Is purchasing recasts generally a thing? I'd never be able to shake off the feeling of having a 'knock-off' sitting on display and would be tormented by not having the original figures.
I need that Nia and Yoko in my life though.
If I could get the measurements of the one that comes with the HG origin tristar zaku we can see just what order or magnitude they got the size wrong.
I like it though, its completely obscene.
>Building a Secret Santa present, HGUC Jegan
>Thinking of what to do with it for custom stuff as I build
It's a nice feeling.
What's everyone up to?
Working on my RX-78CA 1.5, still wip so it's a bit rough.
Nnnf, Char colors really do look sweet on it. Good luck anon, you can do it.
Yeah ROMs are pretty small, actually. I have an old flash cart for the DS before the exploit for the 3DS was found. It runs on the 3DS but I haven't been able to run any patch updates since I got it at launch.
I personally have been working on homebrew to run on the 3DS and used the SD card to get those stereographic hentai images uploaded. I forget the program I was using but I was combining them and making them work with the 3D slider on the device. I was pretty proud of it.
Ah, neat. I guess /v/ will have the scoop on how to run the hacks? I checked before and a lot of people were apparently bricking. Was that just idiots who couldn't into basic reading?
Probably just user error/lack of ability to read. Mine was the first series so there were no exploit patches yet.
The exploits for running the 3DS roms seemed a little hairy to me but I'm content with my DS roms. Only reason I'd try to get 3DS roms running is so I can take advantage of the 3D slider, and have full access to the ARM processors' registers + full resolution screen rather than that weird ass cropping that happens when running DS games.
Fellow Jeganfriend, I'm quite enjoying the build. The backpack with fins is really neat. Thinking of adding those small missile boxes to the fins since they are about the right length for some.
Hacking the 3DS is a lot more complicated.
I can send you the guide I used if you're curious.
And you will need more than a 4gb card. Saving the emulated 3DS memory alone will take up 2gb of your card.
16gb is enough
32gb is ideal
Remember, if you're pirating, all your downloaded games go to the SD
>want to start painting customs
>cold as shit outside so can't paint or even topcoat
Since when do they do delivery on Saturdays? Trying to catch up Xmas shit, I suppose?
update is coming out on monday, probably going to lock out the browser on newer versions. If you are interested I would at least try and downgrade to 9.2. You won't need a large card to do that.
Hey /toy/, anon building the Secret Santa Jegan. Does this look too stupid to seem plausible? I can't decide if it's silly because the missile pods are a bit large, or if it's not too bad. Please give feedback.
Sorry about the nubs on the missile pods, they were from a used model I bought at an earlier date.
No mater what I do, I just cannot get white paint to not look like shit. I've bought all kinds of different primers, different brands of white paint, paint pens, a thousand different thinning ratios, literally everything short of shelling out the dosh for an airbrushing kit (which I probably wouldn't use for anything else because I enjoy hand paining and am otherwise pretty damn good at it).
I've got a Stylet that I wanted to make box accurate but the white parts are vexing me. VEXING. Do you guys think it would look okay if I used a different color? I've got some steel and chainmail, I think that would go pretty well with her blue-and-black scheme. Suggestions?
Finishing up my PG GP-01 I got from Bluefin almost two years ago, it's been sitting around armless for a while now, so I've been working on it the last few days. I'm done with the FB armor, just working on the weapons and shield now.
I would but the only camera I have is on my phone and it's so shit that I don't think it would help much.
That... huh. I don't remember the last time I tried a spray can. The parts are kinda small but my mask-fu is strong. At any rate, five bucks for a can is cheaper than an airbrush.
Where can i buy replacement parts when i live in the US? I was working on the MG Hyaku Shiki 2.0 and i got to these little red rings. The last one popped off the sprue when i cut it and it went flying into oblivion
>mask-fu is strong
Remember to get a primer too. It will make covering up the blue a lot easier.
And I would suggest getting those hobby brands for a smoother finish. Do it for her.
Purchase yourself a resin kit. It will save your gunpla life. The ability to bang out a copy of something you just lost will be amazing. Plus you can use it for customs.
On the other hand, you're pretty much out of luck minus that little parts request thing in the manual (japan only) and just rebuying the kit.
>Woke up early this morning
>Admire box of half Ez-8 painted parts
>Figure I'll put some of the stick decals on
>81 goes on chest plate fine
>08 goes on the shield fine, until the last second
>Now its slightly wonky and I cant take it off without destroying the decal and the paint job
My friend let me use his $12 pair of spru snippers, and they're just not getting the job done. They're too bulky and not sharp enough. At this point I'm willing to just cave and buy my own pair, but what should I look for? What's a good price for a decent pair of spru snippers and where should I buy from?
Mineshima D3A 600 was ok, in terms of budget & the usefulness. (10.++ usd after currency conversion)
just that some tool improvisation needed, such as hinge point re-tightening & blade sharpening afterwards. after all that it will work as your expectation.
a little oil coating on blade will prevent minor rust, as well as long term durability.
Not very complicated like a lot of GM derived kits, but I like it
In kyoto atm
Its actually very hard to buy a million kits because there is so much to choose from holy shit
I want to go to tokyo soon to get some p bandai stuff
hardly ever see them painted, because i think they're supposed to look fancy and shiny to being with. if you were going to paint them you could've just got some plastic kotobukiya msg bits n bobs instead.
they look fine unpainted, my only gripe about them this way is that it just looks like the damn pins everywhere when people overuse them, looks chintzy as all fuck. but not like you're doing that, or so i hope.
tldr leave them as is.
I assume you've checked out the Yodobashi Camera by Kyoto station? Gunpla is pretty slim pickings in Kyoto otherwise from what I could find, it's of course better in Tokyo and Osaka
I got one of those customize campaign sets as a bonus from Gundam planet but I don't care for the look of it. At first I was just humoring myself with the idea of making it in the bag like a ship in a bottle. But then this happened.
(please excuse the nubs)
My rule of thumb for traveling and buying things is not getting anything you can just get at home just as easily.
Translated for gunpla, pbandai, larger kits, and stuff that's out of print for a while and found cheap that you want.
When I posted pics of the 1/100 resin giant axe a few days ago, a couple of people asked if they were too big.
Had someone measure the HG giant axe from the origin tristar zaku. It measures 175mm from tip to tip
175mm at 144 scale = 252mm at 100 scale
The resin one measures 255mm without the clear blade part fitted, So I'm calling that close enough.
When it comes to airbrushing and respirators, as long as I'm painting outside on a patio, using acrylics, would it be necessary to wear a respirator? I don't plan on using lacquers or enamels, in which case a respirator would definitely be good.
And would I need one for cleaning the airbrush after work? I could just use water to clean it out if I'm just using acrylics right?
Thanks for your help
Its still a good thing to use, you wont get any over spray in your system. I do all my painting outside too, and when its normal acrylics i still use it As for cleaning a water/rubbing alcohol mix should work.
First ever gunpla project, an HG Zaku. First few bits looking finished, should I hit it with a Satin varnish or Matt?
Correct, I do wargame modelling. However this is my first time using weathering pigment and enamel washes, so it's a bit touch and go.
I must say Tamiya products are a joy to work with.
Getting there. One of my main mistakes on this guys was missing the joint bits, some of them look a bit ugly if you see them.
I wouldn't go to a store for respirators. Shit selection and usually overpriced to hell when you could just buy a reusable mask and some carts on Amazon for $40 vs $50 at the store.
I asked in the /m/ thread, but I'll ask here too to get some extra advice. How the hell do I get good at nubs? How do you guys do it? I really want to start airbrushing, but I don't want to until I can conquer nubs.
I've read mutliple guides. I usually try to cut it off the runner with a sprue cutter, cut closer, then shave with x-acto knife and then attempt to sand. But I can never seem to get it flat to the plastic. There's always a little "platform" of nub and I don't want to risk sanding away the rest of the plastic too. What grits are best for that? And/or what kind of files do you all use?
Quick shot of half-snapped burikimaru. Now, he awaits paint.
#17 and #18 blades. But honestly, some of it is just the color of the plastic. You can see on the blue here, it's far more noticeable than say...
Still getting used to new airbrush, I've a mix of vallejo air paints and citadel pots which gum up and splatter the paint despite being thinned (or being super runny when thinned too much).
I primed with vallejo poly white primer and base coated with a khaki colour to get a worn effect, on top I built up layers of straight white avoiding edges so it doesn't look squeaky clean. I'm temped to avoid washing panel lines and instead use the sponge weathering technique.
Next time I think I'll just paint every individual piece rather than chunks of model, pain in the ass plus brush painting is just running off some of the model for some reason.
Zaku done. For my first ever gunpla I think it turned out pretty good. Tried out lots of new techniques.
Lighter green is Tamiya Grey Green. Darker green is Tamiya Cockpit Green 2:1 Grey Green. Grey is Tamiya German Grey.
Panel lined with Tamiya, weathered with FW dark earth weathering powder and scratches of metallic paint.
Cut the runner as far away from the piece as possible. Sand the nub down as low as possible,then use a hobby knife (I recommend a chisel blade) to shave of the rest.
Don't use nippers to cut the nub shorter, that's how you get the white marks even after sanding down. Of course, the visibility of these marks vary depending on the color of the plastic.
Are there any variation kits that you want but Bandai likely won't make?
For me, I'd pay for MGs of Exia Repair 3 and Kampfer Amazing.
The former, I have the Metal Build, but a kit of it would be nice too.
The latter would probably use the old MG Kampfer mould, but it'd be better than nothing.
Anyone else here collect Hoihois? Just snapped this girl together and I've gotta say, she's one of the best looking kits out of the box I've seen in a while. Seems like all the hoihois need almost no work to look good, weapons aside. She needs, like, two screws painted and a couple of waterslide decals and that's it if you don't want to go crazy with customs.
That said, there's a really tempting black bunny picture in the instruction book I'm tempted to try.
Also, any side avenues I should look if I want that charger base? Or just the usual trolling Mandarake and Rakuten?
I think I've fallen too deeply in love with gunpla.
Looking at this pic feels like a reunion with a long-lost family, even though I have neither.
Usual places. Mandarake, Rakuten, and amiami still has that one in particular for sale.
Koto kits, yeah. That one's 3.5k on amiami, but the older ones are usually 2k or less through second hand sites.
Aside from the charging stand, I'm probably gonna grab little Ms. Edgy here and her transforming motorcycle next. And I still need some toy cockroaches for them all to fight.
I really want to make something similar to this after seeing gem strips at Wal-Mart & Dollar General respectively. But not necessarily pink or excessively girly, just very "fabulous" & glittery in a general sense. Perhaps with a blue or white theme.
What HG do you think would be well suited to a rhinestone makeover other than RX-78 who I just recently did a build of?
I'm doing something sort of similar with a zeta gundam. I have the gems popping out of the thrusters and stuff, although if i was more skilled I'd be able to sand them properly to fit in the slots.
And obviously Zaku II would be an option for a rhinestone makeover.
Neat, I look forward to seeing what you've come up with. On the topic of Zaku models, I was debating this one, actually. It's a kit I've liked for a while but never gotten around to buying. Maybe clear & hot pink gems overall? Hmm. Do you have a color theme at all with yours?
Eh, it's not gonna be all that great. The best thing I've done is a hand-painted mock. The color scheme is pink and black with the pink gems. It's a very belated birthday gift for my boyfriend. Pink and Black are his favorite colors.
>spraying lacquer on top of Alclad
there is a reason Alclad sells their own smoke enamel
Did a quick testfitting of this guy, doesn't look too bad. Please ignore the nubs on the Geara Doga legs, bought it built and haven't cleaned it up yet.
Gotta say, Jagd Doga is a top notch build. Despite being pretty similar-looking to the Geara, the part separation and overall build process is quite different on account of having a partial inner-frame. Had to switch the polycaps to attach the legs. Now I just gotta wait for it to warm up so I can paint this bad boy.
Newbie here, how'd I do?
Has Bandai always had problems with their mix for white up until the MG era? The very first kit I bought the white in it was minty like that.
quick pic of my GM II Semi Striker WIP. Still have a few little bits to touch up and handpaint but I'm in no hurry since it's too could outside to put any tip coat on at the moment. This has been a really fun build so far.
No one seems to build the doven wolf at all. (though admittedly I got this one at a sale)
The clear black is even, i'm guessing he put aqua kote, but the chrome did lost some of it's lustre
took a break from my hyper delta gundam and got to work on this guy. Guys...is it ok to fall in love with a gunpla? can love bloom on the battlefield?
got borerd and pulled my MKIII off the shelf. i've always disliked how they engineered the elbow joints.
made the arms pivot from the round point of the forearm rather than the stock awkward (to me) point of articulation that was put center of the forearm.
this also made the arms a slight bit longer in the process but it worked out just fine.