Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5370635
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
For the recommended kits in the MG category you really need to add the Zaku 2.0, in particular the F, J and Char's, due to the most excellent frame, price and the fact the everyone needs a Zaku.
Oh God No.
Anyone know where I'd be able to get this part replaced? MG Sinanju chest piece. I know gentei isn't really doing it anymore and I got it locally so bluefin/bandai is out of the question.
OR if you have an extra one I'd pay you handsomely, considering that buying another sinanju is a pain in the dick. Post your email and I will rain money on you.
Just super glue it you dope.
I went home this weekend to my dad's place and dug out my old Wing Zero, Deathscythe, Deathscythe Hell, and Heavyarms Kai which had shitty paint jobs and bits smashed off. Was tempting to bring them back for a repaint but the kits were like over 10 years old.
hey guys first time ordering from AmiAmi, could you folks give me an estimate for how much the shipping would cost me on this order. Ty
wish i had a better camera. still havnt decided on a paint scheme yet.
Well, it turned out ok! Managed to sand down the emblem slightly where it broke after I cemented it, painted over the cracks,
Thank you for your advice guys. You saved me (potentially) a bit of money AND saved my current build.
Reminds me of one of those tall pointed hats.
Well Ottawanon, it's been a few days past the expected delivery date and I'm pretty sure the damn presents are lost somewhere in your frozen hellhole of a country.
I'm gonna send you another shipment from somewhere a bit more reliable and if the first batch somehow arrives, then you'll just have to be extra nice to someone next year.
Anybody bought this tool set?
Was it any good?
Does anyone know about some good building books or magazines I can download? I'm looking on information on what the circled things are called. I'm looking to make that customization myself, but I have no idea what the parts are called.
The addiction is going to hit hard.
Cody doesn't know what he's talking about, listen to us, we're more level headed than him.
I want to replace the legs, arms and head with zeek shit, but I'm not sure which will work. Preferably something with good elbow/knee articulation. Maybe hi-mock for the legs? I'm stumped on the replacement arms but have considered a Geara Doga or Zulu, and a Zaku for the head.
>getting distracted by the blingy bits
>not seeing dat shitty soft mold
It's shit, son.
Just like any mass produced action figure ever.
So uh, yeah, this was my first attempt at putting one of these together.
That's obviously just for sniffing and boredom. Seriously though, I'd like to give my jager a beam weapon then mass produced beams. Is it really that simple of melting a runner and putting it into a mold? Do I need to coat the mold in anything so the plastic doesn't stick?
S'cool man, everyone starts somewhere. It takes time to learn the whole process and get good at details. And the way most sets are it's easy to do a bit of work every night and come back on and off.
First haul pic of 2016
second monotone gourai
Kotobukiya blue racaseal
Atelier Sai 1/60 vic viper
Hasegawa blue impulse egg plane
Border break modelling works book plus weapon set
GORGEOUS pic on the front and back insides, but no way of separating it from the book.....
> not mech-xim
gosh anon, you had one job.
btw, anymore good pic inside, richigo?
So is the purpose of flat grey tone varnish to sort of dim stark colors like bright white?
I ended up with some bootleg mini ligers for christmas. There is some detail loss on the parts, the joints are really stiff, and they take some work to get fitting together.
Still really cute though!
It came after Christmas but thank you secret santa!
Oh shit, I haven't airbrushed in ages and I got a Badger Patriot for xmas.
Decided to prime my Ez-8 with Vallejo white poly primer with too much power, and that shit does not like gunpla plastic compared to citadel. Made a mess of it until I got to grips with the super fine controls, even then I blasted the shield when it was drying and scattered the paint... I might and make it look like its taken a few beam hits or just scrape it back off.
those look like they were made on a lathe, which isn't hard, just costly to buy the cutting tools for the specific sizes, and getting the material, or get lucky and find some usable scrap.
the working name is Hyper Delta Gundam for now and yea it kinda transforms. the backpack can transform into a fighter.
>order three weeks before christmas from Japan via SAL still not here.
>order from 30th december from China here now
Just received my first shipment from HLJ and hot damn, talk about saving the earth. A simple peice of cardboard and plastic bag around it all, efficient and its not like these things need padding. Meanwhile amiami and hobbysearch have at least 2 trees worth of paper per package, almost makes me want to buy exclusively from HLJ to save on paper. Almost.
But not really.
I hate you "save the trees" faggots, you make it seem like you just saved an entire rainforest by not using a paper bag.
You realize China alone is already mowing down more trees than you'll ever save in your life?
Coincidentally, I just got my first EMS shipment out from them recently, filled with seven HGs, an MG-sized box, and four smaller items. They were all just packed into there without any sort of padding, neither paper nor plastic bag. Almost makes me want to buy exclusively from Amiami, because seeing shit like that makes my heart skip a beat, and because of their better prices.
But HLJ's 60 day Private Warehouse and shipping estimates before I buy something have me hooked.
I like hlj since they have good prices, private warehouse and accept my card, most sites either deny my card or wont ship to me. They also have the bulk order for stores that i hope to use one day
The worse ive had was the box was sent in a thin ass box and a sheet of paper wrapping it, surprised a 80s kit was able to survive that
Yeah and to add onto my post, even preowned on AmiAmi is just barely cheaper. I bought MG Zeta Gundam 2.0 new on HLJ for 4k yen but could've saved a whopping 260 yen on AmiAmi if I bought it preowned.
Another owner of the Patriot here. Mine had come to me broken off Amazon and so I needed to send it into Badger. Their service seems to be the real deal and it got fixed, so if you happen to have problems make good use of that warranty.
Be sure to post WIP.
second haul of the year-
Side 3 resin sazabi dress up kit
Dream Cast Infinite Dimension Hi-Nu dress up kit
dream Cast rectioneter
Recasts of diabadi's yoko and nia mechs.
8x 1/100 giant zaku axe
and some lego I ordered for someone
Yeah.... this thing is big.
The shaft even has a metal core for stability.
Not sure if AGP goes here but fuck this and the Unicorn look so damn good
i'm a burger actually. I have some super glue laying around cus I do tabletop stuff but I wasn't sure if the plastics that they use for gunpla were different at all and it would react poorly or something. I'm in the market for new stuff anyways cus I'm running low.
Super glue and plastic cement are completely different; cement fuses parts together via chemical reaction using the surround plastic, super glue adheres parts together with the glue itself.
Wtf they can give banshee a matching hair color but for unicorn red frame they gave her purple. Also not a model but ok to look at
Anyways the airbrush that was lost finally got delivered. Gonna see how long till amazon asks me to pay for it again
Any plastic cement will do. Got a bottle of a generic brand my hobby store carries and works well. Super glue works too. Getting rid of seams using plastic cement is a tiny bit easier since it sands faster but that's all the difference I've noticed. Still keep a thing of super glue around just in case I need to glue something other than plastic onto a kit.
the skull and crossbones are a placeholder for now. I was thinking either EX-S colors or some hero variant color, havnt decided. I did finish the Hyper mega particle cannon.
Plastic cement acts as a lubricant and allows the stryene chains to slide around, thus melting the plastic.
Super glue does not melt the plastic and has very low shear strength. It polymerizes when exposed to water.
These things went together with no problems whatsoever, think I'll either wire to an external power supply, or assemble it with magnets to make battery switching easier.
Gonna need some heavy black and silver on the insides to minimize that light bleed though
Anyone here have experience with the New Years Campaigns? I just won a MG Sazabi Ver. Ka and a Hyaku Shiki 2.0. Says they'll be here by March/April or something, was wondering if anyone had any experience stories.
Bought mine at Model Grade (I'm in the area of California, so shipping to my local comic book store is free, but also they were at the convention I was last at)
United States, California specifically (as stated above). I asked the shop/vendor (Model Grade) and they said March/April, but thanks for the heads up.
My friend that does models loves to brag.
He told me last sunday he plans on entering the New York Comic Con Model Kit competition. I guess Bluefin or Bandai is holding it?
If his amateur ass is entering I'm going to enter too. So, anyone hear/know/been in a competition before?
Yes. It's fun, use it as an opportunity to learn new techniques and try new things.
Yay, can you tell me some things about the competition? I literally don't know what to go off of.
I mean in the competition last year a fucking bear guy custom made to look like Freddy Faz Bear won like, second place. Shit made me ill.
I guess just do my best? I have to look into who and where I sign up with.
The NYCC gunpla contest is part of the GBWC which for 2016 hasn't started yet so you can't sign up at the moment (Check back in another couple months). Once it officially starts the rules and sign up can be found on the bluefin distribution website. Typically they judge by things like technical skill involved, presentation/final design, and how much was actually done to it.
Here's some of last years entries.
I'm beginning to think my two Delta fans are too loud when spraying. It was a huge improvement over the bilge blowers but they're still pretty loud enough to make me hesitate to paint. What do you guys use?
You just enter in general and depending on the contest there are different prizes, usually a prize for best in show, best small scale (stuff like 1/144 and SD), and best large scale (1/100 and larger). They used to have a out of box category but they don't do that anymore. And it has to be a gunpla as the base kit. No Labors or Valvrave or whatnot, although you can use and mod parts from them. Once the contest starts if you have any concerns about if your idea is allowed or no you can email bluefin and get an official ruling on if it's okay.
Damn, there goes my idea for using a Kamen Rider kit for a mod idea I had.
Do straight builds that are put together nicely, painted, etc tend to do better than heavily modded kits? My idea was to make a heavily modded one but most of the entries look like straight builds with a few extras thrown in or given a new paint job.
>Do straight builds that are put together nicely, painted, etc tend to do better than heavily modded kits
If the mods are good, then no. Modded and customized kits tend to get more points because of the higher level of skill and amount of work that goes into them. Not saying a nicely painted kit can't win either (A couple of the contests in the link have people who won a prize with a painted build). Just expect to have to really knock the socks off the judges with your skill if you want to go the just-painted route.
That said don't worry too much about winning anything. Have fun building your kit and seeing the other entries. Its a fun chance to meet other modelers too.
Woah, so much for "mild" retarded when you dilute it that much. So it will really last for a while. Have you used it with regular tamiya lacquer thinner? I thin my gunze paints with tamiya thinner and it works just as well as the gunze one
Alright, huge fag here looking to serrate the wings on this and need tips on panel lining in blood. How do I serrate the plastic without it looking like shit and how do I work with blood? Thanks in advance.
You sit in a bathtub and slit your wrist. Both wrists, in fact, and make sure to cut deeply. None of that pussy teenager shit where they just barely pierce the skin and pat themselves on the back, your blood should be pulsing out of your wrists into the tub.
Then you sit and wait, and you'll be on your way to completing the gundam.
Just finished painting my zaku sniper. Gonna add some decals. Still need to paint the backpack and lens
Are those customization zaku tubes that you can buy seperately flexible enough that you could have one hanging off as battle damage? It says they're "flexible" but I don't know by how much that means.
>lay down basecoat yesterday
>ran out of time(and paint)
>preparing to finish up today
>some dark clouds but doesn't seem likely to rain soon
>pull out all my paints and equipment
>check weather one more time
>it starts raining right as I reach the window
Should be just blood and white paint, you do not want to add so much that it will affect the adhesion of the paint.
Of course the color would be more pink than red but that's where red paint comes in.
It's the though (and guts) that counts.
So anyway, got these for Christmas...
Sorry I not sure to ask here or in the Busou Shinki General? But does anyone have some guide to modding the model kits i.e FA:G hair?
Cause I want to change the position of my stylets twintail to the top, rather than from the bottom
Pics of the joints would be nice.
Also it'll probably involve a fair bit of epoxy putty and drilling and sculpting. I've never tried sculpting complicated 3D surfaces like hair, but I assume it'll be quite difficult.
>filling peg hole
>putty and sanding the pattern off since it won't look natural
>sculpting more natural hair pattern with epoxy
>scratch build a peg hole for twin tail
>scratch build another joint for the twin tail if you want it to bend at the top
>all this while not making the pattern unnatural
You got a lot of work to do anon.
Then you're fucked, because I don't see any way of attaching those twintails short of sawing off the balls and reattaching them at an angle, or replacing the balls with a ball joint and some putty work. Maybe you could buy some cheap miku figure and rip her twintails off and find some way to attach them, but the bottom of her hair is gonna need some resculpting either way. I wouldn't recommend it, and Stiletto is cute enough as she is.
BTW nice hands you have there.
You're pretty boned. You'll have more luck trying to convert a Materia instead, and scratch building all the armor pieces yourself. Maybe you could grab some parts off a valverave kit and stick it on?
>but you make a some sense maybe
suddenly Italian accent
well I was thinking using parts of wing Honoo slapping them on. Plus Stiletto hair style kinda fit Tail red. [/spoiler]I still have 2 un touch Stiletto kit to play around[/spoiler] But I see why i should use Materia as a base body
but you make a some sense maybe I might grab a valverave kit
>Implying Tail gear was ever popular enough to be flavor of the month shit or a meme.
Current flavor of the season is that candy girl thing. Which everyone is going to drop once they realize it's a shorts series with episodes that are only like 5 minutes long.
Citadel has a ink that the plastic crackheads use for blood effects on their models. I think it has a nice glossy final color too. It may be called BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD or something like that
Anyone know if Sahelanthropus comes with a stand as part of the kit? Did Rex come with one?
It would be practically impossible for it to stand without one; not including one at that price would be a major oversight. Besides REX had the same stand as in the pics and RAY had it's own variant (also shown in pics)
Those metal ridges on the back of the legs are dupposed to be heat sinks right?
Hey /m/, I need some advice.
My shelf space is limited, and my budget is tight. To fix both these issues, I was thinking to buy some smaller kits from now on… I built a few MGs so far and I like the details. How about RGs? Are they harder to build? Do the shiny stickers look good on them in person?
Wrong board but RGs tend to have far more surface detail than any other line and some even consider them the definitive model of any particular mobile suit. They also have multiple shades of plastic for separate panels and a lot of optional stickers so they look nice even without paint. They are, however, notoriously finicky for clumsier people since they have a large quantity of small parts but the end result is usually worth it.
Spending some time with a friend for a while; decided to bring a long-backlogged SD Burikimaru. He's been soaking in some soapy water overnight, and he just had a final scrubdown with a toothbrush and (since im so fucking impatient) he got a piece by piece hand-dry and is now ready for nub cleanin', seam-fillin', and some minor moddin'.
hopefully he'll be ready for paint by the time I get home to my airbrush.
>Getting rid of sanding dust and oils
No. Not even wetsanding. That just smooths the surface of the plastic itself. It doesn't remove everything.
Washing your parts isn't a strict requirement necessarily but it is a simple step that has nothing but benefits.
>just block in the colors and hit it with a wash
I'll see how it fares, if anything I'll just use the filter/regulator combo on the old grandpa compressor I already have and which works wonderfully.
Oh, I've been using a basic double-action Badger for years now, I have a rinse station I made so color swaps are nothing to me.
I'm going to use the gravity-feeds for enamels and lacquers, and am curious on the performance of the external-mix airbrush.
Bandai isn't some cheap chinese recaster. They clean their shit because it's meant for kids.
The regulator isn't the problem. The Master compressor runs very hot and can't maintain continuous operation. A tank will allow it fill up and shut down and give you more time to use it. I have the unbranded OEM version with the tank.
I mean, obviously, but the job isn't perfect by far. You can feel the difference between plastic that has had a good scrub down versus some straight out of the bag, and I've also gotten a hair or two in a few factory sealed Bandai kits.
Despite how god awfully busy this thing looks, I honestly quite like it.
The VVV kits were surprisingly nice.
Heavyarms? It's just the RD, not the old model kit.
Ah, okay then. Cause right now I have a choice of either using Krylon primers that I have which are black, or this Vallejo primer which can be applied by brush.
Speaking of this, when painting from a dark primer to a light color, how many coats of paint should I apply? And, when hand-brushing a primer, should I thin it as well, or does it come in a way thats already prepped for just being applied to a model?
It's always exciting when a package arrives earlier than expected.
Never used vallejo stuff, but its normally a good idea to thin paints before using it imo. As for your other question, i normally use white primer for light colors and black for darker colors, so i cant really help you out there
No unless she obsessive about certain characters to where she rps it. Ask her if she wants to try out the group build (obviously dont tell her to post here, keep it between you two) then if all goes well see if you can build with her if you catch my drift