Those of you just joining us, please read this guide. Please read it before asking questions as there is a chance it has already been answered there.
For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.
>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"
***READ THE GUIDE***
And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
Some lineart: http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1
Paint Matcher: http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
Old thread: >>5385571
So, to reiterate, for this group build
Secondary: purple or pink (or both, fuck it)
Due date: February 1st.
Email: [email protected]
Don't forget about the lineart in the OP.
Death Stinger looks fucking cool.
Anyone here like Zoids kits? I've snapped a Shadow Fox and Gunsniper and have a Liger Zero in the mail. The two I've built are really fun and complex kits.
Should I decal? Silver waist pipes?
still gotta ink and topcoat but I've never had as much fun assembling a kit as I did with this.
My picture in the OP. Is this an honor?
I just built the 1/144 Sinker yesterday and may get to the Godos today. So much detail at such a tiny size.
I broke my HMM Berserk Fuhrer while building it via a retarded mistake, now I get PTSD just looking at zoids. Maybe I'll shoot Kotobukiya an email asking for a replacement piece but I bought it around October or November 2015 so I doubt they can compensate me now. Plus I'm certain I lost some of the other pieces anyway.
It's a very good line though
Be careful where you put the neck sliding joint. If you put it in the wrong slot you'll have to take apart the chest from that point to take it out.
I lacked the patience for this and broke the slide by yanking it out. 90 dollars, gone, just like that. Don't be like me and fall to the Tard side of the force, anon.
thats how it is oob pretty much
Tomy's Zoids kits are small but comparable to Koto or Bandai
I really need to invest in a proper photo setup
This is the first MG I've made since I bought the Zeta 2.0 when it came out. It's really amazing how much the engineering has advanced.
got bored earlier so i pulled my MKIII off the shelf to work on it more.
i've always disliked how they engineered the elbow joints.
made the arms pivot from the round point of the forearm rather than the stock awkward (to me) point of articulation that was put center of the forearm.
this also made the arms a slight bit longer in the process but it worked out just fine.
those look like the hands they started using on the nu ver.ka a few years ago. you can order a KO version on ebay for like 12 bucks a pair. they're pretty good, and miles better than the nightmare self-assembly hands that were out some time in like 2010+ that would fall apart if you sneezed in the same room.
i had to layer some super glue on the balljoint into the wrist polycap because they were too loosely fit. i also did the same to the balljoint going into the back of the palm that allows for bazooka swivel. but i also did this for the Nu and rx-78 3.0 as well, makes for much more solid hands.
yea i plan to do that later, i hate that gap too.
yep i just refreshed after posting my reply, i had a friend pick me up several of those bandai builder parts light grey HD detail hands when he went to japan, what a fucking mistake, such terrible hands. idk why they didn't just at least mold them in the regular dark grey too. but yeah they can't hold shit and the open hand is absolutely soulless. how do you fuck that up.
i need to pick up the origin MG, but have been putting it off since i've already got 3 other RX-78s.
well another won't hurt, screw it. no corefighter surely makes it much more solid yet more nimble in the waist from what i've seen. and dat toe swivel.
I needed a short break between gunpla projects and someone gave me a star wars micro machine blind bag for christmas. So i just finished painting & enamel washing it, then made a little diorama base for it. It was a fun little side project & i think they actually look pretty good once detailed up a bit.
the articulation is excellent anon, I was hesitant as well since the last two kits I made/bought were the HGUC revive and the 30th Anniversery ed. but I'm really happy with it
honestly my reasoning to just get it is for the other beam rifle, i love it. i don't know the explanation or difference between the two though. can't seem to immediately find any info.
Finished God Gundamu, mostly half assed while watching some anime. i remember everyone telling me not to get it, i agree its old and dont like its limited movement but Erupting Burning Finger is the tightest shit.
unfortunately the head cams above the eyes were fucked whats a good way to use those? the only green marker i have doesnt match and just makes a mess around the area.
Next up is my favorite Mass production type.
How do people build like this and think it is okay? Hell when I was a kid and twist/snapping pieces out I still didnt have nubs like these.
Alright guys, time to post your tools and supplies.
Tell me what you got. I'll start with a list of stuff I'd recommend from mine.
- Faux Grass and Sand. (Really good when used with Styrofoam for terrain shit)
-L-block Sanders. (I was originally really surprised by these. Way to good for the 3$ I paid for them)
-Metal Paint Trays (Paid 2$ for these at a local shop and got the deep ones from a dollar store for 25c a piece. Worth every penny if you don't have a set)
I really don't have space for an airbrush setup sadly, so the best I can do is panel line and topcoat.
I got a 10-piece of those paint trays for free when my local hobby store owner's girlfriend was watching the shop. She just gave it to me for no reason at all. And she hid away a Cathedral Gundam for me.
I just have the usual shit - nippers (D-22 for sprue and D-25 for nubs), ultra fine point Copic liners, Gundam Markers (Red, Blue, Yellow), random paints, fine point tweezers, plastic cement / epoxy, sandpaper, file (that i never use), brass rods, pin vice, craft saw, paint brushes, engraver.
I only 'need' an airbrush, but eh.
Sorry, it's not. The SD Gundam Force vs Dark Axis set comes with two SD Zaku's and a skeleton Zaku because it was in the show.
>McGillis custom Graze
>About to order the Gouf Prototype Tactical Demonstrator
Shit, I'm obsessed with Blue custom Mobile Suits piloted by high ranking officers. How'd this happen.
And what do I order next?
I airbrushed the at-st with a mid grey, then airbrushed highlights with lighter greys, added a an even lighter grey drybrushed on some of the sharp edges. Then enamel washed to panel line, clearcoated to seal it, then added some really thin blue washes in places before cleaning up some of the panel lining with copic pens.
For the base I just cut out a disk of 5mm thick hardboard, used builders filler to build up an uneven surface, then added kitty litter for rocks and sprinkled sand all over it with wood glue for texture. Primed it, airbrushed the whole thing desert brown, drybrushed layers of light brown then bone white and shaded darker areas with thin brown enamel washes of varying tones until it looked right. Then glued the at-st to the base & drybrushed a little around the feet to make them look kinda dusty (it was way too small to bother with sponge work) Thats pretty much it.
So I visited the Gundam Square, ate at gundam cafe and visited mandarake in umeda. I was tempted to buy the Revive gundam with spork and spoon accessories... but 4,000 yen. I got the GFT Hg Gundam though.
That being said, gundam squares gunpla were pricier than normal shops so I held back there in terms of kits.
That being said, I really regret not buying GM CANNON at mandarake. Hopefully next time.
Yeah, but sazabi and nu were cheap, so i legged it. Im looking for some jegan pbandai kits but mandarake umeda had none. But maybe if I go to another mandarake sometime Ill find more.
Seriously, though. Any news on if anyone's picking up the Heavy Object license?
There might be some 1/3000 gashapon toys at some point.
I know I'm a faggot for buying a bootleg but I don't care.
just finished my first real grade(char's zaku II), i usually don't fuck with stickers but i decided to check them out by putting some on the bazooka and have found that they aren't the shit quality i'm used to with HG sticker pages.
Well technically it's a 3rd party kit that uses a much more different build hat Bandai's.
As for the source of the mold I am unsure if they came up with that on their own or 'borrowed' someone's GK or something.
(repost from /m/) >the scopedog parts came from an old toy i got from nycc years ago. i snapped it in half, carved out the center so it would fit around the zaku's head then just glued it together and sanded down the seam. the scalp is still replaceable so its not a permanent mod to preserve the playablity.
I snapped up my blackstars zaku custom but im headed to the gym so ill post more later.
Interesting. I thought about doing just that too but I wasn't sure how the gold would do on top of the silver. Was afraid it'd be too thick.
Do you have a more in-focus picture of the Alex?
>I use liquitex gesso primer
Theres your problem. Gesso is chalk based & designed to stick to porous surfaces like wood & canvas, not plastic. No wonder your paint scratches off easily.
>I always prime when i paint
>I use liquitex gesso primer
How to tell you've primed: try sanding it. If your shit comes off completely after a few passes, you know it's not primer.
Also, watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no
Nothing will protect from scratches completely unfortunately.
>basically I am too lazy to sand down joints or contact points.
I need to get a few bootlegs to fix some of my kits too.
You can either use it as spare parts/paint testing or if you are not inclined to do that sell it off cheap after taking the part.
Gang, I'm interested in upping my weathering game, and I'm looking into weathering pastels. Once the pastels are on the surface, can I add a protective layer over them? I don't have access to an airbrush, but I'm open to suggestion.
Yep. You can also look for Tamiya weathering sets, they come in stuff like desert or forest. Also Testors top coat, is good and common. The Army Painter and Mr Hobby are also good choices.
Thanks! I figure this is a stupid question, but is hand brushing Liquitex Acrylic Matte Varnish over Tamiya weathering going to rub off the weathering? Should I grab a rattlecan matte clearcoat?
Thanks, GG! I'm interested to see what happens, and I have an SD Dom that I'm not attached to, so I might test the Liquitex on that. I'll probably wind up getting a spray can anyway.
Why do people like the Z'gok and other Amphibious suits so much? I'm watching War in the pocket and that winter assault actually made me like the HYGOG and Z'Gok E
But then I see some of the other amphibious suits, and Char's Z'gok got a Real Grade, and I'm still wondering how something so dumb looking got to be that popular.
aquatic mobilesuits are unique in design and give creators much more flexablity since they dont have to limit themselves to a human shape. I love them personally and wish they got better representation in gunpla.
I like the hygogg better, mainly because it doesn't have buck teeth.
Because it had that cool scene impaling the GM and because Char.
What i don't get is why you would paint that white. Why make a target out of your cockpit? I can kinda get it for the Gundams' red cockpits, because the Gundam is traditionally in bright colors, and for the Char custom, because painting your MS red is pretty much a way of saying "fuck it, i know you can't hit me", but the regular mass produced Z'Gok already has a white cockpit. Same with the Zaku Kai.
A Pisces kit would be awesome (along with all the other OZ suits).
Give it to me straight, senpai. Is this a good kit to have?
>that additional K-on! material
As someone who just got a box w/ Gundams & K-on! merch, I feel we're connected at the soul.
Pic related, today's haul from Mandy. (The prize figures show Yui on the box but they're both Mugi).
What was your first presentable gunpla? As in, what was the first model kit that you built and felt confident enough in to think "yeah, i'm proud of this kit. I'd post it online/show it to other builders"?
Probably this. At least this is one of the earliest ones I remember. I got it right when it came out so whatever year that was...
I'm trying to, but only with highly articulate models because I suck at keeping the top heavy kits from falling down.
Its simple and fun. Good base for customization.
Protoman is also great, pic related.
The v2 was my first paintjob followed by the gm and shining.
Also just finished fixing the paint on my alex. Gonna wait about an hour or so before i finish assembling it
still gotta paint and decal but man am I proud of this mod.
also this guy. still alot of work to be done.
Damn, Man Rodi actually looks great with Zeon style legs. I may need to rethink my original custom idea.
One half of me loves that, the other half is just thinking
>skipping leg day
Just finished the alex. Gonna fix the foot in the morning then paint the chouban armor
Unfortunately i cant since the pos phone camera im using cant focus at all. Hopefully this is a lil better
I just wanted to thank all of you awesome people for getting me into this hobby, it's some of the best fun I've had in a few years! Just seeing your works made me really want to get into it, despite some rough anxiety problems and having shaky hands! When I'm building a model, I feel free from everything and it really soothes me and my hands don't tremor much anymore. I've got a huge set of models I'd like to take a picture of if you'd be okay with that, to show you all what you've inspired me build. I can't do painting too well yet, but maybe someday I'll get around to doing it.
Looks kinda similar to my one (except the other pic is the MG, mine is the HG).
Its sponge/drybrushing & washes.
They announced MG Thunderbolt kits a few times.
>no 2.0 Dom Thunderbolt
a MG sized Big Gun would be cool though
these two. my first set of good-looking MGs. they look great as is, even more so with the decals.
My Gourai. Though I need to do some finishing touches on her.
Previously I painted a red Takemikazuchi but I'm not too happy about the finish on that.
I've shown them all here so far but this was the one that came out best, I felt. It's only my third (4th if you count the SD I started with).
how's this kit? it's on sale nearby at a quite reasonable price.
I'm not particularly proud of my first wheathering attempt, but it is the first kit I did more than just panel line wash decal and topcote.
man they look fucking great standing next to each other.
how are the guns on the buster? are the gun holding arm things on the waist a limiting factor or can you get a lot of good poses out of them?
what about the duel? is it a solid kit overall? i hear the one major complaint is that the assault shroud front skirt armor can't stick on worth a damn
I like how the origin's eyes are always almost covered up so it looks like it's staring at everything.
HLJ always seem to have a box that will fit gundam/koto kits nicely.
>tfw only 2 small rows of air cushion
Thank goodness for singpost. I doubt this package will survive some of the other postal service I heard from you anons.
If you encounter any uneven seams you could just sand the uneven side down instead of filling it, though there could be complications. Knife first and sand with varying grits as needed. I like to start with 600 most of the time.
Any tips for edge srybrushing well? Mine always seem too much like brushstrokes, no matter how little is on the brush.
You sound like me. Please let me see them and share in your joy.
I've never actually tried that. I think it would work weight-wise, the arms are very sturdy, and the grip on the guns sticks onto a thick and solid rib along the fingers. I think youd only gain a small range of motion, because the most inhibiting factor seems to be the location of the grips and the size of the combined gun. I arrive home tonight, so I'll post some trial pictures for you when I can.
Heavyarms is done, wing is about at the halfway mark. Will post pics soon.
And here is what I have on wing so far. I messed up preshading the blue, came out too dark, hopefully the rest of the kit will make up for it.
those gold accents on the minigun (heavygun?) look top notch. what brand and color name paints did you use?
is it just the lighting or is there white paint overspray on the hip skirt missile cover, the shoulder missile pod, and the top of the back shoulder missile pod cover? not trying to take you down a peg, just curious
Thanks for the comments! Gold and silver accents were done with sharpies if you'll believe it. Stupid trick, but they work well for what I'm doing.
The hip and should parts are probably due more to underspray where I didn't hit it up fully with the orange. I'm probably going to go back and dirty those up a little more to get rid of the issues. Sadly I couldnt even see it until I looked in the photos.
Sharpies are also good for those parts you know no one else but you will see, but you want to add a touch of detail anyway.
i'm totally gonna use that trick on this big fucking thing i got in the mail. they sculpted so much inner frame detail that i'm gonna cover up with armor anyway
what gunmetal paint did you use?
Everything cept the sharpies was done with Tamiya. but pretty soon I'm gonna switch over to Alclad.
Just make sure you paint gloss black over the area first else the gun metal looks kinda crappy.
Might want to just buy a camera, you can get basic point and shoots pretty cheap.
If you're the previous anon, no, that should be fine, you've got some other issues though. Check out the photography section of the guide. Also buy this: http://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452622769&sr=1-4&keywords=camera+tripod
Having a stable camera will help IMMENSELY. And a backdrop. If you've got time I'm home taking care of my mom so you can hop on IRC and i can answer questions.
I'm having an issue with sanding nubs down on my pieces.
What I notice is it feels like the nub itself isn't getting sanded down, but instead everything around it is. I'm using 1000 grit and 2000 grit sandpapers I bought from an auto shop, and yet no matter how I try to sand the nub off that little white spec never goes away and I'm afraid I'm gonna end up sanding off a huge portion of the piece trying to get rid of it.
Any tips on how I can improve my technique? Should I use a higher grit sandpaper? Lower? Some other tool?
Thanks! I tried to take a few shots, but I suck with a camera, but the wife helped me out. Sorry if they're messy, we've just moved so the entire room's a mess. Sorry if the quality is bad, my phone is a brick. And they're a bit dusty on two of the shelves, I'm working on that today, sorry for the mess.
Here's a better shot of the three in the back behind the Cardigan, Barbatos, and Gouf.
Lower shelf is dustier than I thought!
Few on the other side, on my priority to dust list.
Last one of the shelf I'm working on while unpacking the rest of them!
I plan on it once I can conquer my shaky hands a a little more, if I do, I'd like to go back over some of the bottom shelf works. They're some of my first models and they seriously need some clean up or retooling. I tore of them up bad. I hope to one day though, Genoace Custom is one of my favorite models that I got to make!
Kamiki Burning was a ton of fun to build, he feels a lot more solid than the first TRY Burning, I knew the sword was going to be a neutral color, just wish it was one of the dark greys instead of white!
The MG Full Armor Unicorn was an absolute blast to build, but the head can be a little iffy sometime, the panels on the side can be loose and I worry about them falling off sometimes. Expect to put some time into it, with all the add-ons and the finer details!
Crossbone Maoh is one of my favorites, top five for me. The only problem is that his arms and hands have a harder time holding up the heavier weapons he comes with, but his flexibility is amazing and the weapon set he comes with rocks. Severely needs painting on the weapons though, they're pretty neutral white.
Both of the Nobels were great, but considering the newer joints, they're outdated. I try not to pose them too much because their feet don't always stay on and it's a lot of plastic on plastic contact in the arms and legs. Still, they're worth getting if you can.
GM Sniper K9 is also in my top five, I love the weapon sets and the backpack functionality, just the amount of poses this kit can do is great and he comes with a good number of hands, which is a rarity sometimes. It can be a little weird to pose the backpack in K9 mode, but it's solid.
I'm going to get around to re-arranging them once I get everyone else unpacked, but they sorta just go where I put them right now, sorry!
Ran out of post room, but here are the others!
The Psycho Thunderbolt was a little rough, it's a personal thing, but working on his colors was a little tough on the plastic because of stress marks show a little more on red. Overall though, he's got a lot of detail and fully decal'd is a perfect piece for a collection, a labor of love if you would. Warning, when fully packed out with both of the thrusters and weapons, he's back heavy, so be ready to balance it out. I've got the sword perch from the Blue Frame Astray under the lower thruster and it works just fine.
Gouf Custom is top five material, he's got it all going for him and super fun to build. He's got his full gear load out from 0083 and they're smooth and to color nearly. It's a little hard sometimes removing and attaching the full shield and minigun combo, but it looks great all the time. Don't forget to get a Ez-8 and two RX-79(G) sets to complete the set! One of the best episodes in Gundam history!
Oh believe me, I'm starting a whole new collection right here that I hope I can take back to the states.
The HG 00 Gundam 7 sword is the kit I put the most time into. You had to color the v fin as well as all the clear pieces. Along with panel lining and top coat, it's the kit that required the most work. I enjoyed the process, although the results didn't turn out perfectly.
I hope so too, it'd be a shame to have to leave behind your new works. Maybe there's a way to box and ship it all to your parents' house, but it might cost a bit. I don't know about that sort of thing, sorry.
The 00 Gundam has some great models and the 7 sword variant looks awesome though. I guess that's part of the process and the difficulty to the hobby is that not everything turns out just right, but it's the journey that's the best part! I hope you can make it back to the states someday and combine your two sets my friend!
To 'save' on shipping and sell the other one.
I have made a mistake. It's too expensive even with the split shipping and I would be damn glad if I can actually sell one.
And the box is actually a little smaller than the liger panzer while being twice the price. (It looks good though)
Ill ask here and the other thread
Anyone interested in a sd neo zeong? I ended up with 2 and dont really need the other one. Willing to either trade or sell, email me at [email protected](oldass email.idgaf if spammed)
I want to cut the shoulder spikes off my MG gouf custom and replace them with some sort of vent type detail part, but I'm worried about not being able to find the right diameter detail part to stick in there after cutting them off.
I was going to make this exact post. The sanding in the Bandai "Gunpla is Fun" series makes it look so easy and flawless. I use 2000 grit and it does next to nothing to the little sliver of nub and scratches the entire surrounding area.
And when I remove with an exacto, it took extra plastic off because I misjudge the angle of my cut.
It was my first gunpla. I'm sure I'll get better with practice
Use a metal file to remove most of the nub. 800 to flatten and make the surface uniform. 1200 and up to buff and polish. You can go up to like 8000 or 10,000 grit using polishing pads
use sanding sticks. The wave ones are great and cheap from hlj.
Im assuming you dont paint if your concerned about whitening on some nubs. Whitening on plastic is unavoidable sometimes, if you really want a perfect unpainted finish, you have to grind out the whitening with a dremel or carefully cut it out with a hobby knife, then fill the hole with plastic cement (which shrinks as it hardens so you will need to fill it a few times) then sand it down again for an invisible mark free finish.
hey, does anyone know how to deal with the hip joint of this guy from falling off when i move it?
>hips moving on their own.
A2 32 facing the right way?
Did you follow the instructions?
its not that they are moving on their own, its more the fact that anytime i try moving the hips to pose it the peg that holds the hips to the waist comes out, and yeah i followed the instructions,
poster of >>5399651 here.
try sponge. Just cut a rectangle of sponge about 2 cm x 1cm. fold it over lengthways
and hold it with tweezers. Then you need to rough up the sponge to be as un uniform as possible, nip at it randomly with nippers/rotary tools, low grit sandpaper, blunt scissors or whatever until its uneven as hell. then dip in silver paint, and dab it off on a rag until you cant see any coming off on the rag anymore.
Apply it by VERY gently dabbing it perpendicular to the edge you want to chip. Dont stroke or move it around, only dab.
If you want some edge to look heavily worn, do the exact same with black before the silver.
If you overdo it, use a thin enamel wash of something close to the base colour to tone it down. (or airbrush an incredibly thin coat of the base colour then re sponge it subtly)
Why, that'd be first one I completed panel lining on of course!
There are a few blemishes, but they're on the backside where you don't normally see anyway~
This is the first kit where I felt like I didn't fuck up just snap building it and paneling lining it and stuff. Come to think of it, I never matte coat it or anything so I could probably do that now after finally getting a can.
You should always wear a mask when dealing with airborne particles if you aren't in a fucking shop with a ventilation system.
My GMIII, its far from perfect but I think it looks great and it was my first airbrushed kit, it really has its flaws, the unpainted yellow (at the time I didn't have any yellow) and the gouge in the shield.
that is fluff or dust on the chestpiece before anyone asks.
Second Dom is done though i fucked up the 7 decal.
guess i'll finally tackle the 3.0 Gundam
Retyping this post because my phone fingers aren't working with me at all. That's Akiba Red, I didn't notice he was on the shelf until you pointed that out. He blends in well though!
Building the red zeta, modded the hands so each finger can move freely
anyone else really happy the armored core hogire noblisse oblige & nineball seraph are getting reissues and not $150 each like normal?
>Kit never ever EVER
God, browsing obscure designs is a mistake. I don't have the fucking scratchbuilding skills to make a goddamn BUGU, Bandai, you fucks!
How do you guys in apartments/houses without garages/outdoor areas manage to paint your kits?
Yeah, huge koto reprint going on now, snagged the RAY since I was getting the sahelanthropus anyways, so I'll have all the Metal gear kits, hope they'll follow up with shagohod and the MSX ones
Well if you keep sniveling and carrying on how you suck and not moving foward and learning, of course they don't deserve you.
>Lol no dude. I know the LG Leon and I know the android OS
Then you would know that its a common issue that other people have had about it not focusing. Theres no "pro mode" for my phone. Pic for refference i cant do anything much. Read online that it has a fixed focus instead of auto
And then heres the only other options i get. This phone is not really great for photos but theres some trick to angle downwards
Then grab a different camera app. There are multiple of em for Android.
As far as a fixed focus, I've never seen that issue before with the Leon... strange. Either way, just find out where the focus is by moving an object forwards and backwards until it's nice and sharp. Then you'll have an idea of where the focal point is. Once you have that you can easily take nice looking photos.
Ive tried different apps and they all dont really work because of the "no focus" i used google cam for a bit and it took thw same shots as stock. Like i said i have a camera thatll actually let me focus and change settings, just keep on losing it
So my order of paint finally fucking came. The pink is Gaia Storm Pink and the gold is also Gaia Star Bright Gold. Wen't on excellently, despite my iffy thinning on the gold.
It's hard looking after a kid and painting, but here's almost finished Ez8
Painting it dirtied wasn't such a good idea as washes and brush strokes look ass over smooth airbrushed paint, I'll just had to take a sponge and add some chips etc
Looks good, but you forgot your reds in a couple of places.
>cutting through your nail
I've gotten lucky and had the blade catch my nail rather than my flesh, but damn you should go see a hospital because you'll probably need stitches for a cut like that.
there ZoE stuff too? i know they aren't perfect but i'd rather paint and save some money for their Jehuty compared to the Revotech or Riobot
1/72 Type-Lahire Stasis
1/72 Rayleonard 04-Alicia Unsung
1/72 Rosenthal CR-Hogire Noblesse Oblige
1/100 SA-17 Rapiere
1/100 REX Black Ver.
1/100 Metal Gear RAY
1/72 Geno Breaker Raven Custom
1/72 Highend Master Model RZ-041 Liger Zero Jager
>hallo google will be always watching
but seriously though, what a cool video. the part with the airplane taking off was really neat. would have liked it better though if the music suddenly cut to heavy metal and zakus and GMs landed and started blasting away at each other and buildings and stuff started getting destroyed.
I don't know what you mean by "excellently", but this is what Star Bright Gold is supposed to look like. It shouldn't be orange and it should be even.
Airbrushing actually takes practice and comparing your past build and this one I would say you need a ton of it if you want to improve. Like hour a day for a few weeks kind of practice, not even kidding.
Also, for all things sacred, stop thinning in the cup.
That's the first coat I put on, I don't think I've ever managed to put down one coat and it be perfect off the bat. And nah, I have cups for mixing, I just thought the way the paint swirled around in there was neat.
>I don't think I've ever managed to put down one coat and it be perfect off the bat
See, that's where the practice comes in.
Airbrushing is not like handbrushing where you put a bunch of thin coats and the first few look like shit. You need to be able to do a perfect thin coat the first time or you will never be good at post shading etc.
It goes double for metallics: Alclad Chrome looks the most convincing after one or two thin even coats and if you spray more it starts looking like tinfoil. Pic related (the black metal look) is what you get after one coat.
Get a box of spoons and just spray until your paint runs out, there's really no other magic way to get better at this. Also, if your airbrush came with the book, do the exercises.
Baby's first zaku/build ever
Haven't painted or decaled it
Just a snap fit for planning
>yes I took the pic on the stove top because it's clean as fuck with that black background
Cook your nubs more basically.
>finely sliced the nub until it is almost level with the unwrapped plastic
>rub sandpaper gently over it to smoothen the surface, using different grits to achieve the desired results
>A pinch of water will reduce the amount of fine dust when sanding
>bake in the over at mark beam saber till crispy
>serve with machine gun bullet couscous and diced bazooka. Add a heat hawk as decoration.
So I'm planning to bring some materials like spray cans, cement, etc (generally flammable stuff) along by plane but after some research, the general consensus is that these items are not allowed. So is shipping my only option? Any anon experienced this before?
>using number 11's
It's like you actually want to cut yourself. Use this type of blade next time