>>672538 No, they are not. That trailing point without the hook would be a good skinning blade. That's where the blade pattern originated. I'm old, and old men taught me how to field dress deer. I can have a deer from freshly dead to ready to quarter in just a few minutes and I do so using a trapper pocket knife and a little bit of string. You can, and probably do, use different methodology. In other words, your mileage may vary.
That said, I was a bit snarky. 4chins brings that out in me sometimes. I wish unto you many freshly killed foods to skin with your cock and pullet whacker.
So I bought my first knife the other day, for future adventures (pic related, a Gerber "Big Rock"), and thought I'd come to this board and see what others use and such. I've read a lot of negative comments about Gerber as whole, so I'm not sure if I've made a poor decision or if I'm just needlessly worrying.
>>672588 >if Gerber were prone to breaking or something People will frantically google for broken Gerbers then come up with a few examples of some guy abusing it, you can do that with just about any knife. I just ignore them
>>672584 I've never broken a Gerber. I've never owned a Gerber with decent edge retention. Learn to put a convex edge on the blade and you'll minimize the time you have to spend keeping it sharp.
And remember to sharpen the serrations from the front only. Use a corner of a small stone or a triangular stone to raise a small burr on the back side, then lay the stone flat to the blade and polish off the burr.
>>672601 I never even considered a convex edge, thanks. Also, would you happen to know what that small notch is for near the base of the blade? Just before the serration starts? I was thinking for ferro rods, but I'm not very knowledgeable with these things.
>>672603 It's called a choil. You put your finger there for control when you're doing fine work at the base of the blade. You have serrations, so you won't be doing that. It also acts as a relief so you can sharpen all the cutting edge without running your stones into the ricasso (the area of the blade where it hasn't been beveled right in front of the handle).
I posted this in the Knoife thread before it got derailed, figure I might post it here.
Seems like lots of the Moras have the more slender blade almost like a filet knife. What are the pros and cons of a slender blade like the Mora and a wider, butcher knife looking blade like the Kershaw in the pic? Given they are both like 4" blades...
>>672783 The distance from cutting edge to spine is largely cosmetic other than its effect on turning radius of the knife. Blade geometry at the tip and thickness of spine are more important. That said, blades with a thicker spine tend to be wider so they don't have to grind a steep angle from spine to cutting edge.
>>674271 But for a bushcraft knife, does it gives good results ? Good quality ? I have watched several videos, I like the shape of the knife but as it is a bit pricey, I wouldd like some opinions on the quality before buying.
>>673107 Biggest problem is the guard. It's completely worthless when /out/, and also makes the choil completely useless (even though it's too small to use even if the guard weren't there). Basically, don't buy it. I quite honestly wouldn't buy any knife advertised as a bowie.
Materials, mostly, and fit and finish. Spydercos are made in 4 main places - Golden Colorado (para 2), Seki Japan (delica), China (lower end models), and Taiwan (high end models).
Obviously, the ones from PRC use 8cr13mov steel. delica is made from VG10 (and there have been runs in super blue), higher end models use powder steel - usually cpm s30v, s110v, and cts xhp (though cold steel has been buying up most of the XHP lately).
Here's a vid of a domino, in CTS XHP, cutting phonebooks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20GoANlDgvY
the para 2 is bigger than the delica (if you just want a longer blade, there's the endura). It also has a different type of lock (compression lock, rather than back lock), and a beefier handle.
If it just says 440, then it's most likely 440a, or 440b (wouldn't count on it), which is not a good steel. Definetely not 440c. You'd probably be better off with 420hc, which is the one 420 series steel that doesn't suck.
>>674459 The real answer is "what do you want it to do?"
think of knife steel the same way as a tool: you use the right tool for the right job, and it excels. you ask an axe to do fine carving, it might be able to do some degree, but not as well as a carving knife. Is this making sense?
You will never get a straight answer to the question of knife steel. Everyone has an opinion, and a lot of it is based on conjecture than actual experiences or data (which is unfortunate).
So I guess a better question is this: "what are you going to use your knife for anon/what do you want out of it?" There are plenty of 'well rounded' steels, but none that does every job perfectly. For example, s60v holds an edge like a beast, but is hard as fuck to sharpen. You sacrifice one for the other. That sort of thing.
If you're looking for a hunting knife, like the one you have in the picture, 440 might not be the worst thing, but I would never stake my life on it in a survival situation. Stainless steels are probably a good choice if you're going to be processing meat, but they dont hold an edge very well.
If you want my opinion I am happy to give it, but I need to know what the hell you want it to do haha.
And keep in mind that as soon as I recommend something, some anon on here is going to disagree with me immediately. That's just the nature of knife steels: everyone has seen ___ data set, or has __ opinion because of __. That's just the nature of it. I've done some research, but that doesnt mean someone else with an equally valid opinion hasnt also done some research.
>>674470 Oh, I misrepresented something. "Stainless steels are probably a good choice if you're going to be processing meat, but they dont hold an edge well unless they're super steels like vg10, s30v, s60v etc."
I was thinking about 440 specifically when I typed that. 440 in my experience is quite soft and doesnt hold an edge well. There are some stainless steels that do hold edges well (better than carbon steels) but often these are alloys/super steels.
steel is an alloy (Iron and carbon), and "stainless" means there is chromium in the mix as well, to increase corrosion resistance. On the extreme end of this, you have steels like H1, designed for highly corrosive environments, like saltwater,
"super steels", besides being powder metallurgy steels (giving them a very fine grain structure), also have additional alloying elements, like canadium, niobium, etc. This, and the process of making them, promotes the formation of carbides, which are hard and cut very well.
most bushcraft/survival knives use 1095 high carbon steel (or some equivalent).
Some (usually the higher end ones) use O1 and A2. Good heat treat is important, and you don't need a 1/4 inch thick prybar either. Here's a 1/8'' thick A2 steel knife doing some stupid shit and living to tell the tale: https://youtu.be/RCQR6xymR2g?t=767
>>674479 Oof. Can of worms here. The answer is "Whatever qualities you find more important versus others, that will give you your answer."
This guy's got a good idea, >>674481 from what I can tell, so maybe I'll expand off of that and give you a more full answer.
>>674481 I agree, 440 C is the best of the 440 line, but that's because it has Carbon in it.. this makes it more durable, but also more rust prone. With 440 of any kind, you dont have to worry about that very much. I think 440 is a fine choice for a kitchen knife or a knife that processes meat, because you dont need much more than "stainless and wont crack if you hit bones (though it will chip, fyi)"
Yes, he's right - there are semi stainless steels too, most of which I really like. I have a d2 knife that I carry a lot in the woods, and I like it quite a bit. The biggest beef I have with d2 is that it is a little harder to sharpen than some of my other knives.
Yes, and I would not recommend H1 for anything but industrial environments, where you need these extremes in corrosion resistance. I also think you'll be hard pressed to find anyone that thinks that H1 is a good steel for an all around survival knife, because its edge retention is poor.
An aside on super steels: they are often very enticing, because they boast everything people want in knives (edge retention, fine cutting edge abilities, semi or stainless properties, durability), but are also MUCH more expensive than other steels.
If you want an answer without doing any real research, I would say that some cheaper (though still very good) steels I'd recommend for a survival knife would be 01, D2, A2, and in some cases 1095 (I am not crazy about it, but other people really like it for reasons I wont get into here). Some high end/super steels/expensive steels would be s30v, VG10, ELMAX...
Also, an idea to keep in mind: HEAT TREATMENT/TEMPERING IS OFTEN AS IMPORTANT IF NOT MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE STEEL ITSELF. (more..)
>>674495 If you arent familiar with the rockwell hardness scale, I wont get into it, just take my word for it: you probably want a knife that is close to 60 on the RW scale. Some people like softer tempering because it is less likely to chip or crack, but you sacrifice edge holding capabilities the softer you go. Some people like excess of 61+ which means the steel is more brittle (prone to crack and chip) but holds an edge extremely well. I think 59 or 60 is about perfect IN MY OPINION. If you're looking around at knives and they dont list the rockwell hardness, move the fuck on. Dont waste your time.
>>674487 Yes, this is true. Most do use 1095.. but there are better steels in my opinion. I do see some merits, which is why I cant disregard its usefulness, such as the ability to strike sparks form the spine of the knife with a hard rock in an emergency to make fire.. etc. Not my personal choice though. I dont think anyone is wrong in choosing it as their steel of choice, I just personally like other steels better.
He also brings up (with the video) some other important factors in survival knives: It needs to be thick, full tang, and somewhere between 4.5-5 inches or so. This all depends on who you ask, but I doubt anyone would debate me on "it needs to be thick and full tang" at least. IMO it should also have a scandi grind, flat grind, convex grind, or double bevel edge and be drop point or something without a 'belly' ideally. But that's getting into more personal opinion stuff. Blades with bellies people might not debate me on - they are harder to sharpen in the wilderness, there's no denying that.
other than that, the knife in that video has basically all the qualities I would want in a survival knife (so long as it is tempered correctly).
>>674499 you should also keep in mind that if you ONLY had a knife in a survival situation, you want it to do everything at least semi well. I have a s30v bushcraft knife, but it spooks me a little, because you can really only sharpen it well with a diamond sharpener. If I didnt have one in the wilderness, then that would be really bad.
To summarize, other qualities you want besides steel would be: 4.5-5 inch blade, full tang, 90 degree spine (so you can strike a ferro rod off of it and junk), and possibly non coated/carbon steel so you can strike sparks off the spine with a rock (but that's kind of splitting hairs - not a must have, just nice if you had nothing but a knife in the wilderness). 01, a2, d2, 1095 are all good steels that are cheaper, but I have trouble sharpening d2, s30v, vg10, (I dont own an elmax knife) with anything but a diamond sharpener. You can sharpen 1095 on a rock all day long, which might be one of the reasons people like it so much. Other than that, tempering is vitally important: 60ish on the rockwell scale is my personal favorite. Lower than 56 is soft and resistant to chipping, but wont hold an edge as well, and higher than 61 will hold an edge extremely well but could crack or chip more easily. Hope this helps dude.
>>674503 oh I forgot: I take good enough care of my knives (oil them and keep them clean) that I dont give a shit if they're super rust prone. Some people really care about that because they dont take care of their knives as well, in which case stainless steels are more justified/a better choice. A lot of this is up to the individual. Also keep in mind that any knife is better than no knife in a real survival circumstance, so you dont need to get a 500 dollar knife necessarily.
>>674505 and for fuck sake, do NOT get a knife with serrations. If you need serrations for anything (I never have) on such a small scale, you should just use a folding saw or the saw on a swiss army knife... the way I see it, you use a lot of valuable cutting surface when you put serrations on a knife (and they're hard as fuck to sharpen). Here's another good example: if you're gutting a deer, the serrations will only get in the way because those little teeth will grab onto anything and tear it. If you've never accidentally snagged a deer's intestines and cut them open, I can promise it is both stupid and smelly. Just save yourself the trouble.
as long as you don't get it completely dull, a 1000 grit ceramic rod is fine for s30v even. There's a sheath called Deep Wood Xplored (DWX) - it is a hubrid leather/kydex sheath with a sliding lock retention and embedded ceramic rod - LT kas it as an option on some of their knives, but it's kind of expensive (like 75+ dollars expensive, if memory serves).
Also - the thickness isn't that much of an issue. There was a trend for survival knives to be 1/4'' thick (Dave specified 5/32'' at least), but honestly - 1/8'' is fine, and most bushcraft knives have settled on that (I've even seen some go down to 3/32'').
As for the "full tang" buisness - it's not so much about the sick tang knife breaking, as about the handle coming off and leaving you with a much less functional knife, than if the same were to happen to a full tang one. I have one stick tang that I have no problem doing heavy chopping with, and no fear of it breaking, but that's kind of a special case (also, you really want a kukri with a stick tang, for balance reasons - until you feel it in your hand, you'd be surprised how much of a difference even taperd tang does in terms of balancing the whole thing).
As has been said already - most of the time you'll do fine with 1095, 5160, O1, and A2.
Though it's not the only choice. Falkniven uses 3V and laminated VG10.
>>674525 True, but the difference in time/effort is what I'm driving at. Sharpening s30v with a diamond sharpener sharpens as fast as 1095 on a whetstone (non diamond).. but if you use that same whetstone and try to sharpen s30v, it will take more than twice the amount of time. And if you've never sharpened a knife before, we may be talking hours.
To your point on the ceramic rod - could be a nice option. I personally have a lansky diamond sharpening rod that I carry that would do the same trick, with the bonus that it is a diamond rod. It is probably heavier than the ceramic rod though, I'd guess, which could be a downside. A lot of this is personal preference/guess work.
The way I see it, you're generally correct. I would be more worried about the handle coming off. However, a rat tail (or stick tang) provides for one more failure point in the knife, and I dislike that. I would prefer to have as little failure possibilities as possible. Murphy's law. Maybe I'm paranoid. Regardless, I'm not attempting to demonize rat tail tangs or anything - I carry a Mora as a backup knife all the time, and that has a stick tang... love it to death. One knife scenario? I will reach for a full tang every time.
I dont have much experience with Kukris, so I cant speak to this, but I fully get your point. In that sense, the stick tang has a purpose... in a knife? That's left to the user.. I stand by my opinion, but hey, that's just my opinion.
Right on. A lot of Sandvik steels are pretty good too (speaking of moras), not to complicate the matter further haha.. but yes, those are all good steels.
Yes, I have one.. I am a big fan of VG10.. I've found they can hold a much finer edge and keep it for a long time than some other steels. It is a cheaper super steel.. I'd say it is superseded by s30v, in that s30v is a little better in every way, but the price difference almost doesnt justify it. I think my vg10 knives (2) can hold a more scalpel edge than s30v though.
well, I forgot to add - that kukri has a 10mm (3/8'') spine, so good luck breaking it.
Also - the sammi have been using stick tang knives for ages, and no one is complaining. Hell - swords are made with stick tangs, and they're made for bashing wankers (and ending them rightly).
As for sharpening - I have a lansky turnbox with diamond and ceramic rods both - I keep telling myself I'll get a nice 3000 grit stone, or some other sharpening system, but for now I always keep putting it off. Also - I said "as long as you don't get it dull" Touching up an s30v blade on a ceramic/strop is not a problem, and doesn't take much effort. Resharpening a dull one without diamonds is a major PITA.
I onlu have one knife in VG10, but I can't say anything bad about it.
Again - everything comes down to sharpening skills. Here's a D2 steel blade push-cutting a tree (that's right, a tree. Like, a whole tree. Ok, not a very big one, but still) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6PrhodVA3U
>>674562 Hm, I see what you're saying here. And most definitely a 3/8" spine is far better, but that's also NOT most rat tail tang knives. To be clear, I'm not trying to undermine you or anything, this is just my opinion. As I said, I love my Mora.
Just so we're on the same page, this is my worst nightmare https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNdY0dZy4sA If I was in a real survival scenario, this would literally kill me. I dont like that risk. I sleep much better at night knowing that my knife is literally one giant piece with some scales bolted onto it.. bulletproof basically.
Totally right about the blade maintenance... and everyone should maintain their knives, but sometimes you just have to rehone that edge.. and I want a diamond rod to do that. You're right though - I strop my blade every day after use, as anyone that wants to maintain an edge should do.. but fuck if I didnt have that diamond rod when the time came!
Sharpening is vitally important - right on. And yeah, D2 can hold a wicked edge too. Sharpening is a super important skill to practice.
well, then you have things like the CS SRK, which is basically a full tang, only the tang is not exposed, and there are videos of people doing really crazy shit to them.
And since we're taking a trip into crazy territory, there's another knife worth mentioning (pic related) - yup, the tracker. Quick digression for those that don't know the story:
Back in 1980s, a journalist asked Brown, if he had to survive in the wild with only 1 knife, what would it be, to which Brown replied that it didn't exist, because he hadn't designed it yet. And went on to design the famous (or infamous) tracker as the ultimate survival knife.
But like the old saying - the best survival knife is the one you have when you need it. The TBT represents much of the 1990s trend in survival knives - big, clunky, 1/4'' thick.
Now - on it's own merit, it's a pretty good knife. It cuts, it slices. I've chopped with it, and batoned with it. I used it as a showel, and a hammer. It's not something I'd carry with me on any regular basis though.
It is basically #YOLO in knife form. One of those "fuck it, i'll just bring this one and do everything with it" knives.
For other people, that yolo knife might be a BK7, or something else. It's still good form to have a backup knife, but unless you really expect to push the limit of what you need to do with a knife (or just need a big one for a specific reason), you'll be better off with something smaller.
Especially, that most of the time, the knife you will end up using in any given situation is your edc knife - one of the reasons people carry stuff like the Izula, and similar blades.
>>674603 Trying to refrain from exploding here, because the TBT is literally everything I hate in one package.
I'll try and keep it civil. In short, I dont like it.
People always try to get these huge knives, and it simply doesnt make sense. When you get a knife bigger than 6 inches it gets unwieldy.. you're better off just going full axe or a regular sized knife, because good fucking luck doing fine carving tasks with a huge knife. You're not getting the best of all worlds, you're just getting something that is bad at everything because it isnt big enough to be used as an axe, and too huge to do any carving or finesse work.
second, when you divide a knife blade into 2 sections like that, it becomes a bitch to sharpen. Try sharpening that inner blade half on a rock in the wilderness. It's ridiculous. I bring a sharpener anyway when I'm in the woods, but just a simple one - you'd have to get a kit to maintain both those edges, since you have to be so unnecessarily precise. You also lose the long strokes of a single blade, and resort to actually dulling each section extra quickly, since you're overusing one of the 2 edges.
third, you should NEVER have to pay 310 dollars for a 1095 knife. That is like buying a 5,000 dollar car for 100,000 bucks. Some people pay more for a knife due to the design, and that is totally worth a higher price tag, but this knife is not worth the extra price at all. I wouldnt take this knife for free.
It's also stupidly heavy. wow. Hardly surprising though when you look at how much steel is there. Regardless, it surprises me to no end that this guy made this knife for a wilderness scenario, because it seems to me like he has never carried a knife on his hip for a great distance. This would get annoying quick.
Anyway, the only good features are that it is full tang, and 1095 with good tempering :)
to be clear - there's a big difference between a knife looking cool and a knife that is functional.
>>674603 BK7 is a better knife for sure. To be clear, there's a difference between a piece of metal that can take a beating, and a survival knife. Dont want to claim that the BK7 is that way, but definitely dont look at the millions of youtube videos of people beating these knives up and then claim that it is a good survival knife. Apples to oranges.
the BK7 is kinda unnecessarily big too.
Anyway, if you are implying that the TBT is a good choice for a survival knife, I completely disagree. I really liked what you had to say about sharpening, so I'll be sad if that is your opinion haha.
>>674629 Not TOO fucked. I would have picked something different, but it meets a lot of good criteria. Full tang, 1095, non serrated.. It is a little unnecessarily big imo, but at least it isnt some 2 inch folder.
If that's your knife, and you're not going to buy another, you sure could have done worse. Let's put it that way. If I could be so bold - you might wanna keep that dude oiled though. 1095 rusts very easily. If you're thinking you'll buy another knife in the future, I think this thread has all the info you'll need.
>>674658 oh I just thought of something. If you can somehow take the scales off of the machete and fit it into your oven, you can temper it to a useful hardness in an oven. Lots of custom knife makers do this.. plenty of tutorials online.
I did say the TBT is basically #YOLO in knife form. As in "fuck it, i'll just have this knife for everything".
And I brought it up to illustrate a point (perhaps I didn't stress that enough):
Most of the time, the knife you end up using in any given situation, is your edc knife. The tracker does not qualify as an edc knife. It was made to be a "1-knife option", and to a certain extent - it can be. You can see on that picture, the primary edge is actually just over 4'' and cuts pretty well.
But If I could only have one knife, it would certainly NOT be the tracker (or any large knife for that matter).
For a "1 knife option" you actually want something that's handy enough to be an edc knife, and sturdy enough to be a bushcraft knife. THAT was the point I was trying to make.
If you can have 2 knives, your options open up A LOT.
As for the tbt - like I said - it represents much of the 1990s "survivalist" trends - big, clunky, 1/4'' thick.
And there is another lesson here. Much like those infamous "survival" knives (excuse the obscenity I just posted) that cropped up in the wake of Rambo movies, some people put too much faith in the tool, rather than skill. Which is where a lot of the hype for the tracker came from.
To be fair, Dustin did use a WSK on Alone (whatever you might have to say about that show), and it did well enough. Then again - the guy that came in 2nd had a very small knife, so it didn't really matter that much (and all of them brought axes).
>>674667 Whew, glad you cleared that one up. Though, I still cant fully agree with your point.. I do NOT think that it is an all in one tool.. I dont think that such a tool exists, because you pick the right tool for the right job - and when you try to make one, you end up doing the opposite. Here's another example: you want a knife that can chop logs AND skin? Then you make a bigger, thicker knife. But now you have a knife that isnt as good at chopping as an axe, and a poor skinning knife due to it being heavy, long, and unwieldy. I'd prefer to just bring an axe and a knife, then you've covered all the bases.
You're entirely correct about the importance of skill over the tool! I think people forget this all too often. And in the case of "Alone" (though I never watched it, I'll go ahead and assume), this is a perfect example of that... any knife is better than no knife, and any knife if used in the right hands, can be useful. The point I'd like to drive though, is that you should still strive for a knife that is the best you can reasonably get, because its shitty to have a knife that will fail you (regardless of skill level) - especially when it could mean your death.
This is also a good example of opinions at work. I disagree - I think that the WSK and TBT are not good choices based on price and features, but if other people think that, it's totally cool. I know what meets my needs, and if those meet someone elses needs, then awesome. I do however think that my opinion is based in reality, based on what I've seen work and not work in a real world scenario, as well as thinking ahead to possible events/long term survival. But you do you, friend :)
my point exactly. You can easily make do with a 3 inch blade for most bushcraft tasks. I'd still prefer a fixed blade, because everything a folding knife is, every single part of it, is just making up for the fact that it ISN'T a fixed blde.
If nothing else, then no matter how strong your locking mechanism is, it still has moving parts.
But back to blade length - besides overusing your edge (because there is less of it), which isn't really much of an issue, the only time you need a long blade (besides batoning huge logs) is when trying to cut through something - like bread for example.
>>674683 oh, also, you're totally right about the EDC knife being the one you'll likely have. And I agree with the 2 knife option, and have been preaching that like a southern baptist for quite a long time. I carry a carbon steel knife every day, and strap a super steel knife to my belt in the wilderness. One method of covering the bases.
>>674683 >you want a knife that can chop logs AND skin?
there is a workaround for that one, actually. Far from perfect, and I'm not a skinner, but it works like a charm when separating hide from a side of pork (euro-bacon if you will).
Remember that kukri I posted earlier? Well, as it happens, the point of balance is right about here (pic related, knife at neutral balance the way i'm holding it), so you can use this grip, and the belly, which this one has more pronounced (rather than being a bit more pointy and leaf-shaped).
Far from perfect, but it does work (until you get blood all over it and things get slippery - it's more for vegetables).
Speaking of skill at handling a knife: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DHGlhFJH0g
As for the price of the TBT/WSK - considering you can get most of the HI and Tora blades line for less than that... well... yeah.
And if you've never watched Alone, the contestants were limited to just 10 items off a list (their own items), so "cheating" several tools in as a knife made sense, at least on paper.
Likewise - the tracker made sense on paper - the whole point of that interrupted edge was to protect the secondary edge from impact when chopping with the primary (tops should have made it a hollow grind though, since it's ONLY used for carving sticks, so it would make sense to have it sharper, rather than stronger - Beck didn't make that mistake). The sawback on the tracker is good though (but it's not exclusive, it's just the regular tops sawback) - not for sawing through stuff, but for making easy square notches. And you can use the flat of the blade to hammer stakes into the ground (hey, I've done it, and it makes up for what, 0.001% use of the knife? :P )
>>674686 >no matter how strong your locking mechanism is, it still has moving parts. it's a compromise sure, but folders are really better for edc unless you literally live in the bushes. when i go out it's my backup blade i have a cheap ass mora to fuck around in the woods with. >You can easily make do with a 3 inch blade for most bushcraft tasks. i'm a city boy, i just go out for the fun of it, also the legal limit here (unless you have adequate reason to carry bigger) is slightly less than 3.5". frankly i might have bought a full sized recon of 4" blade if not for this, but quiet happy with the little guy.
I meant one as in "you only own one knife" - not everyone is an OCD collector with 20+ knives on the shelf.
Then ideally you'd want a 3-4 inch fixed blade. If you can own two, you can get a folder as well, and things get a lot more flexible.
Me - I don't really use folders anymore, since Polish knife laws are pretty sweet, so I just carry a fixed blade. I do have a spyderco techno as my backup, because it's a lot more "cute", and a lot less scary than pulling a fixed blade from my hip.
Generally, there are 5 main knife categories to consider in my opinion: folders, small/medium/large fixed blades, and multi tools. That pretty much covers everything you could need.
there are some small fixed blades (most notably some nech knives) that are just as convenient to carry. Matter of preference, to be sure (and local laws) but if everyone had the same ideas, the world would be boring.
>>674735 i never got how this neck knife thing works. it's almost impossible to hide them. people will look at you like some weird faggot. a folder goes in the pocket perfectly concealed easy access even in winter. i think i'm very much a belt knife guy and prefer the 4-5" blades instead of the 3".
i struggled a lot before buying the mora companion i wanted an esee 4 or 5 but in the end i decided to have a cheap ass hatchet and a cheap ass knife as they will outperform any beater at all tasks.
>>674637 Dont worry... i work for my dad at an industrial supply warehouse and we specialize in metalwork... we got tons o oil and sandpaper/belts a plenty... gonna put a convex grind on it too cause i basically got this to do medium batoning and chopping around campsites... basically using it as my main knife along with a couple smaller ones to do some fine food processing
you can wear neck knives under your t-shirt with ease. Especially the skeleton and/or small ones - tops msk, esee izula (original, not izula 2, though I prefer the 2 as a knife in general), spartan blades enyo, other small knives like brous blades, sog snarl, rsk mini 127 - there's a bunch.
If you can get away with a 4-5 inch blade on your belt - sure. For me, a 3'' fixed is perfect for edc - not too big, not too small, full size handle, and good enough for carving sticks and food preparation outdoors.
>>674699 >>674735 Ok, I'm getting the sense that we can go back and forth on this forever. I'm not an enemy of opinions - I think yours is perfectly valid, but in my experience, an all in one tool is not the answer. I'd prefer to carry a multi tool, fixed blade bushcrafting knife, and a folding saw or axe in the woods, and use each for the purpose it is meant to serve. I see the appeal of an all in one tool, but it just isnt reality. What would happen if you were hammering with the flat of the blade, and it suddenly breaks or cracks? you've literally just lost all of your tools. Plus I'm sticking to what I said about "an all in one tool is ironic, since it doesnt do any of the tasks as well as the RIGHT tool." I'm glad to hear you've actually used the thing, and can speak to that, but I'm sure that if you took a good axe and split logs, then compared it to the splitting capabilities on a similar log with the TBT or something - you'd find that it just doesnt compare.
Besides. I dont think it is a stretch to tell someone "you should fish out 50 bucks for a multi tool, 50 bucks for a forest axe, and 100 for a bushcraft knife" when the price tag of a TBT is still 110 bucks more. The right tools for the right job.
Again, not trying to undermine you, I just have a different opinion. You do you, guy :)
>>674740 yeah, I think neck knives are ridiculous as well.
Not that I think this would ever happen, but it could even be a choking hazard haha.
The thing that annoys me the most though, having tried it for a while, is that no matter what you're doing, it is always getting in the way. It is constantly swinging up and whacking me, or dangling into something I'm doing.. just obnoxious.
Also on the topic, necks are not weight bearing body parts guys.
>>674877 You should probably be in decent shape then. If you're gonna be using it for chopping, it certainly excels at that above some other knives, though, you might have been better off with a camp axe or forest axe if that is all you're going to be doing with it. Though, I dont suspect that's what you meant. Good idea with the convex grind, I'm a big fan of that idea :)
in the past when I've tried out neck carrying, even tucking it under your shirt isnt enough. It still flops around and slaps you and gets in the way. I mean, is it really that big of a deal to just carry the fucking thing on your hip or in a pocket? haha. I have never really understood the neck knife phenomenon.
I'm not totally with you on the 3-4 inch fixed blade.. I've gotten along really well with a 4.5-5 inch fixed blade and a 3 inch folder. The 3 inch can do a lot of the carving tasks, and the 4.5-5 fixed blade can do more heavy tasks and batoning. I dont think a 3-4 inch blade is long enough to meet batoning needs. Glad to go into detail as to why, but I'd hope it would be common sense.
Wow, guess I need to move to Poland then, haha. I am obligated to do a 3 inch or less folder where I live, so that's what I carry.
Haven't looked into knives for a little while, but did some research a while ago and never ended up buying one, was deciding between an Esee 6 and a Becker BK7, but leaning towards the esee, are these still worth it? Are there any new 6-7 inch full tang blades that would be good? Any recommendations welcome really.
>>675094 I think all of the info you need is in this thread, if you read up a little further. In short, I do not think that either of those knives would be the right choice. If you are hell bent on one of those two, I'd say the esee, but I personally wouldnt carry it.
Knives bigger than 6 inches exponentially lose fine cutting abilities the bigger they get. 1095 is not my favorite steel in general, and I think both of these knives are overpriced for what you're getting. Plenty of expounding/discussion of all these points above in the thread.
I think there are better options out there for you dude. Dont settle - get the right knife. If your knife was the difference between life and death (as it would be in a real survival scenario), wouldnt you want it to be an extremely good knife? It's worth the effort to find it.
Also keep in mind that everyone has a slightly differing opinion on knives, and no one is completely right or wrong (unless you think that a 440 stainless rat tail tang rambo knife for 15 bucks is a good survival knife, because then you're extremely wrong)... so while I could spit out tons of knife recommendations, someone will disagree with me (though not as whole heartedly as if I recommended something TRULY wrong).
>>673986 yeah, mora's are great :) plus the scandi grind and sandvik are nice. rat tail tang isnt great, but a great knife otherwise.
>>673992 yep, that's why it should be a backup knife.
>>674007 lansky makes sharpening rods that are pretty nice. just search amazon for sweedish fire steel. as long as the price tag is above 12 bucks you should be fine regardless of brand.. both are quite small so no trouble packing.
>>674445 >>674451 This dude is on fucking point. I second this whole heartedly. I have a delica 4 and native myself, and will definitely attest that these knives are worth it. Spyderco in general is a really good brand.
Yeah, I did say it's far from perfect. It is possible to make a "one tool option" that does everything you need reasonably well, but there's a reason the "traditional" outdoor setup is is a big knife, a small knife, and a hatchet.
A one tool option is always "eh, whatever" - as long as you're not making furniture and don't care too much about neatness, whatever.
Obviously - but besides batoning larger pieces of wood (smaller are okay), 3 inches is enough for most bushcraft tasks. The reason I said 3-4 inches, is because if you are going to edc that, I generally prefer a smaller blade.
If you can get away with carrying a full size fixed blade as your edc, or if you have a second knife to edc - sure.
Then I'd say a 3'' folder and a 4-5 inch fixed blade will do 90% of everything you might ever need.
>>675079 >necks are not weight bearing body parts guys. dunno about that in the past people carried a lot of heavy shit on their head or their back with a strap on their forehead.
your neck is really strong. but it's fucking annoying if anything dangles from it.
the only real advantage of neck knife to belt knife is it's higher up harder to get the blade wet when fording and easier to access when squatting or sitting.
one time i considered neck carry, when i had a coat on that hung over the pants and belt and really fucked with my ability to quick draw. it was a spooky night in a spooky forest. but an external tool belt is really a hundred times better just harder to improvise.
>>675114 ah, now I understand. For a fixed blade EDC knife, 3 inches does sound reasonable. I am thinking long term survival knife, in which case I would like bigger. DESU, the biggest justification for a 4.5-5 inch knife is more cutting surface (so the wear is more spread out) and batoning. Most bushcraft tasks dont require a blade of that size, but you get more bang for your buck if you do get a 4.5-5 inch knife, due to those extra perks. For an EDC knife? I dont think 3 inches would be a bad choice. My long term knife? 4.5-5 always.
>>675152 ask your doctor if necks are weight bearing body parts :) not trying to be a dick, but what people did in the past as far as that goes is irrelevant, because modern medicine would strongly disagree.
I'd agree though that it would keep it out of water if you were wading through water, or squatting, but at least for me those minor advantages dont outweigh how annoying it is to have a knife around your neck, constantly whacking you and getting in the way. Dont let me talk you out of it, it's just my opinion. If it doesnt bother you, then go for it, I just dont understand the appeal myself.
>>675152 oh also, if we're talking about historical carry + personal experience, I would STILL disagree.
I carried a martebo sack on trip a couple years ago. I tried carrying that thing around my shoulders (aka, the strain is on the back of my neck) like a fool, and I was sore for several days. I cant imagine that is good for you.
Though, in the end this is kind of splitting hairs :P a knife is probably not going to be enough to ruin your neck or cause pain.. just wanted to stress that necks arent meant to withstand tons of weight/strain.
>>675203 works better than you would expect. people are still doing it to this day. i have done it myself when my shoulders no longer could take the weight of my backpack (it had no frame and shit straps)
>a knife is probably not going to be enough to ruin your neck or cause pain.. just wanted to stress that necks arent meant to withstand tons of weight/strain.
I am in agreement! And I wouldnt claim to be an expert on this matter anyway - I only know what I have personally experienced. I dont like carrying a martebo sack around my neck. The place that people should really be putting weight is on their HIPS. hips are definitely weight bearing, and they do it incredibly well. I have a backpack I could carry all day without any strain, because it distributes the weight to my hips instead of my shoulders or back. It's good shit.
I feel like, even from just looking a these pictures, that this would get stressful quick. Even if necks are stronk. There are better options.
Anyway this is getting way off topic. Knives. Yes, neck carry is a valid choice, no, I dont like it, but that doesnt mean it doesnt work for some people :)
Hey ya'll, looking for a large wilderness blade. Everything from batoning to making feather sticks, maybe a little chopping if I got to. Thinking of a Buck Hoodlum, any other knives in the price bracket I should look at instead?
Honestly, if you wan't something that big, might as well throw in a few bucks extra and get something from HI.
Why not just get a "normal" knife? Besides chopping, there is really no advantage to having a really big blade (see everything I wrote about the tracker) - unless you want that big steel for a specific reason, just get a 5 inch blade.
>>675236 Buck Hoodlum: feathersticks - no. Too big, you're actually better off trying to make a featherstick with an axe than with this thing.. when a blade is this big it is unwieldy and hard to use to make precise cuts. batoning - yes. This is probably something it would excel at, but you want a well rounded knife too, and this (to me) is not the answer.
Dont let me talk you out of it completely - you do you. I mean, 5160 is decent steel, it is full tang.. I just think there are better options is all.
Let me as you some questions that might help. 1. are you looking for a survival knife, or something to beat shit with in the woods? 2. why do you want it to be large? larger knives =/= better necessarily. 3. what's more important to you: rust resistance, or ability to hold an edge for a long time?
>>675252 Let me rephrase then. I think there's a big difference between a good survival knife, and a hunk of steel that you just want to beat shit with that will hold an edge. So, new phrasing: "survival knife or fuck shit up but wouldnt stake my life on it knife?"
You can baton just fine with a 5 inch blade, trust me, I've done it plenty. If you're trying to cut something thicker than that, you should probably use an axe anyway. Right tool for the right job. In a real survival scenario, you want to expend as little energy as you can. Axes have tons of weight behind them, and are meant for splitting things anyway. You'd save yourself time and energy by using the right tool for that job. Smaller than 4 inches? No problem with a 5 inch blade.
Great, then that eliminates a lot of stainless steels. 5160 holds an okay edge in my experience, but I think that there will be better options for you. Once I hear your answers, I'll think some more on it.
>>675256 I've carried this condor axe around plenty, and it isnt too heavy. http://www.condortk.com/productos-detalle.php?producto=76&cat=63 It would probably be just as heavy as the Buck you proposed.. and then a survival/bushcraft knife on your hip would only be another couple oz. It is made of 1060, so it will rust like a bitch, but from what you said about your maintenance, I doubt that would be an issue.
As far as a knife? Tool steel. If you're good with maintenance, and have to split the cost between an axe and a knife, you want tool steel. My favorite tool steels for bushcraft knives are 01 and D2.
>>675263 Alright, if you dont wanna budge on that, I'll play :)
So if you absolutely have to have a 5 inch knife, that eliminates some possibilities. There are few tool steel and super steel knives that are bigger than 4.5 inches, so with your needs, we're looking more at the 1095-60 type stuff. Check out Jeff White's knives, Battlehorse knives, habilis bush tools, condor.. by no means an exhaustive list, just the things that come to mind while I'm sending this from my phone. For what you want it to do (more beating shit) you could even do a becker BK2 I guess.
If I can talk you out of .5 inches, that opens up tons more possibilities.. :)
>>675284 Correct, but when you specify a measurement as exact as "5 inches" that eliminates everything that is not 5 inches from the pool.. so naturally we're looking at only the knives that meet that criteria. Lots of super steels and tool steels just arent made to be that length, so that knocks those out. I recommended those brands because I think they are damn good knives.. I wouldnt have recommended them otherwise. I dont have the browsing capabilities or typing capabilities right now to list off 100 models.. so just take this criteria and apply it to those brands if you want such specifics. 3/16" or thicker (for your chopping/batoning desires) convex or scandi grind (or something similar)
>>675284 If you'll sacrifice .5 inches, I'm currently using a 4.5 inch benchmade s30v knife called the "bushcrafter 162" that I like a lot. The only complaint I have is that the handle kinda sucks (not fit for my hand). I've had it for a couple trips, and it may become my favorite knife if it holds up as it has been. Glad to expound on this if you're interested in a full review haha. It's just the knife I'm most excited about rn
Himalayan Imports. Sorry for assuming you knew - it gets mentioned here, but not all the time. For chopping, it's hard to beat a forward-weighted kukri.
the 1990 survival knife design (big, clunky, 1/4'' thick, every tool you could possibly need all at once), of which the tom brown tracker is one of the most extreme examples is fortunately giving way to more sensible designs 1/8'' or 5/32'' thick, 4-5 inch blades. Honestly, there is no special, "survival" property to a knife (unless you count those retarded things like the rocky mountain knife - see above). If I absolutely had to split the world between survival knives and the rest, I'd just say that the "survival" knives are more of a general purpose design. You get that jack of all trades, master of none vibe, but not too much - just avoid overspecialisation, like fillet knives, etc. You're not making furniture, after all, so it (whatever you're doing, not the knife) doesn't have to be pretty, and anyway - most good bushcraft knives do excell at bushcraft, just don't go prying with them or any other shit hollywood tells you to do.
not him, but most bushcraft knives are between 4 and 5 inches long. What >>675281 said about brands, and also LT Wright (he and battle horse used to be part of blind horse knives together before they split, so their designs are quite similar, and if you can find the old blind horse stuff it's good as well). Then there's ESEE, TOPS (some of their models at least, B.O.B. fieldcraft knife comes to mind).
If Alone is any recommendation for you, the winner (Alan) used a Condor kukri, and as far as I remember, there was a BK2, an LT wright Genesis, Jacklore something something, and a couple of others as well.
>>675300 yep, Polish friend is right. And he's right about LT Wright as well I'm sure, though I dont own any of his since the split. I actually only own blind horse knives (from before the split) from that batch, but I'm sure battle horse and LT wright are just as good since they're cut from the same cloth (which is why I had no problem just recommending battle horse without owning one). esee and tops are pretty popular, but not my favorite. I have an esee 3 I got a lonnnng time ago, and (opinion alert) I just dont really love it. It has become a beater knife, because I know I have better ones that do everything it can do, but better. Just my unsolicited 2 cents :P
But I wouldnt say esee and tops arent good choices too, because they are.. I just prefer others.
incidentally, i usually dont like benchmade all that much either, yet I just half recommended a benchmade - some evidence that I'm not trying to be bias or anything, just follow what performs well.
>>675324 Havent heard of it, but I just looked it up.. yeah, looks like it would make a good skinning knife :)
right, and that's my complaint too. I think one of these days I will take it to the bench grinder and shape it better. It isnt a perfect knife by any stretch, but so far I like it pretty well. Anyway, any of those other brands that I mentioned (and the additions from Polish friend) would be awesome options too.
>>675329 cool story. PS, you can make a featherstick with a felling axe too, because it is easy. Friend wanted to know if it would be GOOD for feather sticks, in which case I stand by what I said. Theres tons of extra metal (and therefore weight) that makes the process more annoying, inaccurate, and unwieldy. If you disagree, please take a video of yourself carving a featherstick with a 3 inch knife and with a 10 inch knife and we'll see which fairs better. Additionally, when you make a featherstick, you want maximum surface area, which = thinnest slivers you can do. Good luck being accurate enough to do thin slivers.
This was also an elaboration of my opinion on fine carving tasks with a large blade. Try carving a spoon or a bowl in a long term survival scenario with a 10 inch knife... I can promise it will be both hilarious to watch and utterly enraging to perform.
>>675324 oh neat, I found an 01 knife that is 5 inches from battle horse. http://store.battlehorseknives.com/Highlander-H1-Saber-Grind-6-Sheath_p_584.html It looks like it is beyond your price range though, which sucks. Anyway, this is a downright survival knife. I am still kinda getting the impression that you just want to fuck shit up.. in which case get a becker bk2 or some shit :P
Some good and some bad here. 440A is an excellent alloy as far as percentages of carbon and chromium go, but it's finicky as hell with regard to hardening and tempering, so most cheap 440A knives suck. 440B and 440C have more chromium and more carbon and aren't as finicky, so you have better odds of getting a decent hardness and temper with a less expensive knife. Any of the three will make a damn good knife that will resist corrosion well if they're done properly.
Chromium increases stain resistance as its percentage increases, but it also increases brittleness at any given hardness. Knives that are made of 440A, D2, 420HC, 10xx series steel will all be less brittle than 440C at the same hardness if tempered correctly.
440A has 1.5 to 2 times the carbon of 420HC, more manganese, and about 2% more chromium. 440A also has molybdenum, which 420HC lacks. 440A will get harder and hold an edge better than 420HC, assuming both heat treatments being done properly.
So the question becomes: How much do you value edge retention compared to toughness compared to how fine an edge you can produce compared to corrosion resistance? Find the alloy that fits your needs and get it from someone who will have made the knife right. If you're unsure about a knife steel, look it up. See what's in it, find out what those alloying elements do to the steel in what proportion. Short, somewhat overly simplified list:
>carbon: allows steel to harden >chromium: increases stain resistance, brittleness >vanadium: produces smaller grain size, allowing a finer edge >molybdenum: improves hardenability, reduces brittleness at any given hardness >magnesium: improves impact resistance, thus increasing toughness
>>675247 buck hoodllum is the worst for batoning almost guaranteed to break the blade because the retards at buck put that fucking notch on the back before the tempering and makes the steel extremely brittle at that point also a huge weakness cause lots of steel is removed.
>>675995 >>676006 Ehh, looking at it again, those might be slightly above your budget. I thought it was 50£ at first, which would be closer to $75(USD).
There is the Esee Izula and Izula 2. I have been eying one of those for awhile. They are right around $40-$50 and there are a bunch of options for the handle. There is also the KaBar EsKabar which is really similar to the Izula.
Or lots of CRKT stuff will probably be in thay price range. Kershaw too.
But I don't know shit. Most of this is just observation from what other people seen to like. I haven't been disappointed with the couple CRKTs and the Kershaw I own. Still love that CRKT SPEW.
eskabar is a collaboration. Izula 1 handle, with a clip point blade.
Of the two (Izula, and Izula 2) I'll always recommend the Izula 2 (unless it's above your budget, obviously), since it has a half inch longer handle, and full micarta scales, that you can remove if you want a skeleton, but the optional micarta scales for the izula 1 are not full, and a beefier handle makes a big difference.
You can also try the condor bushlore/mini bushlore - really solid, if not as flashy as the higher end ones. Obviously you get lower end materials - 1075 steel and some unnamed wood handles, but decent performer nontheless.
>>676043 Are the Izula 1 and 2 made out of the same steel? I was looking at them on eBay, and I thought the Izula 2 was a better steel. But the descriptions on eBay were all over. I saw Izula 1s that were claimed to be made from carbon steel, I thought they were all AUS8 or something stainless. Unless they are offered in different metals.
I thought the Eskabar was cool just because it is a little different but you could still use any of the Izula scales. But I really want a lime green Izula 1.
>>676055 Damn. That's too much. Exactly why I haven't bought that green Izula yet. I don't want a collection like that where I will rarely even use 90% of them. They really are tools though, not some $600 collector's knife.
I still want a green Izula, but I don't need another fixed blade. Although if I ever see one of those cheaper Ontario folders somewhere for like $30, I will probably grab it just to have a halfway decent folder. After I bought that big CRKT Dragon, I told myself no more knives for a bit.
>>676070 >>676055 Not that I'm talking shit or anything, I just have to restrain myself because I could easily become like that just to have one of every brand that I'm interested in. And I would only really use one or two of them.
no, they are both made from 1095, have exactly the same blade. The izula 2 just has a 1/2 inch more handle, and comes with full micarta scales, while the izula 1 comes without scales, but you can buy partial scales for it (that don't cover the lanyard hole).
There is also a 440c stainless version of the Izula 1.
Pic related is my most recent purchase. I'm very surprised by how well done it is, it easily beats mallninja blades in terms of quality up to 30 dollars and this was less than 10. It's a grand edc and one day hiker knife imho, would recommend it to anyone who likes more traditional blades.
>>676520 I know it's 4chan, but I think you're being a little bit too agressive considering the topic I was talking about. I don't know whats the problem with mallninja, I think it describes the items and their 'culture' I was referring to perfectly. And also you clearly misunderstood the term 'traditional', I surely didn't mean outdated, it's simply refreshing to see a product that has been unchanged (more or less) for almost a century. My grandfather's Opinel looks exactly the same. It's plain, inexpensive and reliable. That's what I meant by traditional.
>>676597 I don't know about Baltic countries but I guess so. And each country accepts refugees, but its not a major problem outside of Western Europe. I live in a city that had a refugee camp with 4.000 people (they closed it a few months ago) and I saw maybe 10 refugees whole last year.
I roughed out my first knife blank last night. I think it turned out alright. The ring finger slot thing is a little small, so I'll fix that. I probably should have gone for a less complex handle for my first knife, but whatever. R8 my knife blank, sc/outs/.
>>676524 I use a cheap dual grit stone from Canadian tire (was around $10 i believe) and and old belt, and can get a knife sharp enough to shave with. Just use rough side,then smooth side, then use the back of the flat leather belt as a strop.
The thing that takes a while to learn it how to hold an angle. What i did was just practiced on an old knife. Get it sharp, dull it. Rinse, repeat.
I've heard people when learning will take perminant marker and draw on the edge. This way you can see where the stone is taking metal from. Be aware though, I'm not sure what marker will do to your stones.
There is also the lansky system. It's not too expensive and is literally foolproof. I'll use it if I'm looking to get an exact angle.
>>676664 >Debrecen Based Magyar. You guys have someone solid in charge of your country but desu you're in one fucked up place geographically speaking, too many borders there. When weather starts to become more travel friendly, there will be tons and tons of more people arriving there. For example, my country don't have refugee camps for now, we will only be receiving ~5000 part of UE quota system, but these number will get bigger as the time passes and more people arrive at European soil.
For the price I don't think it can be beat. S35VN steel is the tits. The grip texture is perfect and shape of everything is perfect, especially the blade geometry for slicing things like cardboard. Nothing to snag or slow it down. The handle can be held two ways, but probably caters to smaller/medium hands to be comfortable without using the front finger choil. That finger choil sold me on the knife. Combined with the blade shape and that fine edge it really allows you to do some detailed accurate work.
Mine came stiff as fuck and I'm trying to break it in right now. I've taken it apart and oiled it with good stuff but it's a slow process. I don't know why because all the contact edges are a mirror polish already. My $40 Tenacious is smoother in deployment. Maybe its the lack of washers in it?
The pocket clip is good and secure, but a little rough on my pant pockets for EDC. I'm going to have to buff up the edge a bit or else it will tear up my nice jeans. Other than that I don't like the finish of the blade. It shows smudges like a bitch and takes a long time to clean up. Yeah I'm splitting hairs at this point. It does the important stuff more that right for the price, and it's making me think about getting a Paramilitary 2 instead of an Emerson Endeavor as my next nice knife.
>>676629 I'm glad it looks like a knife. Thanks for validating me senpai.
>>676647 Thanks. I had initially been thinking micarta or g10, but for a first knife it may just be best to go with a wood from a local shop since apparently those laminates are a little more difficult when gluing. Might go get a nice piece of ebony, but I'm not sure how expensive that stuff gets.
>>676657 Not really, this is my first knife. I've watched a lot of YouTube videos myself though. I found Trollsky and Walter Sorrells to be the most helpful videos. If anyone knows some other good videos, please post!
>>676695 Yeah I kinda regret it now lol. I tried to mimic the cold steel ak-47, which fits my hand like a glove. I should have gone simpler, but hey I was expecting mistakes on my first knife. Got too confident! It's not too late though, we'll see. Thanks for the feedback.
What does /out/ think about the sharpness of a knife? Should it be so sharp that just touching breaks your skin? This knife would not be for regular use, just combat situations and when you have no other knife.
>>676448 Kinda strange to fake a $40 knife. I believe it happens tho. On eBay, however, when I was searching for Izulas, almost all of them were right around the same price. $40 for just the knife, or like $50 with the whole kit for the handle. So no deals that were too good to be true. It would suck to pay like full retail and get a fake.
There is a gun and knife show going on this weekend. I kinda wanted to go just to look around. Not sure yet. I need to get a FOID card.
>>676510 That's shitty. The Izula is right about the same price. What are some websites that you can buy from without getting taxed? What about your eBay?
There's gotta be something similar from a European knifemaker. I can't even remember what you were originally looking for, but as a smaller EDC fixed blade that isn't overpriced, I like this CRKT. They go for around $35 here. It's nice and compact, the sheath holds it horizontally on my belt and I don't even notice it's there. I'm no knife expert, all I'm saying is I really like it so far and haven't had any issues.
It's nice because a lot of knives that sit vertically on your belt can really dig into your side when sitting or moving around.
>>677048 Can you get Kershaws without paying a ridiculous tax?
This is what I own as far as fixed blades, and the two larger ones I got for really cheap because both were discontinued models. Top one is a CRKT C/K Dragon that was around $28. Middle one is the Kershaw Antelope Hunter which is all over eBay for $15-$20. And bottom one is that SPEW, which I paid full price for but was only $35.
That middle one, the Antelope Hunter, even with taxes you should be able to get it for cheap. It's not a bad knife. The handle has some grip to it, but not quite rubber. It also comes in black. It's a decent size too and comes with a leather sheath.
>>677119 RUI has a website too. They are based in Spain, lots of tactical stuff.
Sounds like your best bet is grabbing something from a domestic company. If you try and buy a knife from one of the US companies that everybody around hear talks about, you are going to pay double what the knife is worth after shipping and everything.
>>676915 Another update on my first forray into knifemaking.
Still hardcore regretting making the handle overly complicated. Thinking about removing the "grips" but I'm afraid it'll make the handle too shallow. I could make the handle scales thicker than I had planned, but idk if I like that.
I also kind of fucked up the grind. I was going for a full flat, and I achieved that, but I didn't define the plunge line enough, and due to poor lighting and poor skills, I overshot the line I had planned and it looks kinda goofy.
I picked up a couple pieces of African Blackwood for the handle scales. I just went down to the wood carving shop and looked around for some cool-looking and dense wood, and this seemed nice. Hopefully it doesn't turn out too brittle or anything.
All in all, I'm pleased with my first attempt so far. A good learning experience. I still have steel for another knife after this, so it's all good. I think I'm going to enjoy doing this on the weekends.
I'm by no means an expert but I found the most useful thing was something that I could use as reference for my angle. Sharpening freehand is pretty tough to learn (once you get it you've got it tho), so I'd recommend pic related which is what I use for any flat beveled knife
>>678503 Some words from he blacksmithing master Don't be a turd polisher its your first knife but it won't ever be perfect, it will probably be ugly and a bit clunky but don't stress it , Yeah you fucked up with the handle being too complicated though if you ground it flat i dknt think it would be too thin
The grind on the blade looks a bit weird with the blade shape Don't try to make everything perfect and instead use this as a learning experience for the futur
>>678503 Yup, still kinda looks like it could be a knife with some more work.
What the hell is your plan for the handle? Do you have a drawing or anything for it? I'm horrified, yet intrigued by that tang design. I have a feeling by the time you get the scales to fit your hand comfortably, you are going to be grinding away some of that metal.
>>676736 >You guys have someone solid in charge of your country lol the guy on your pic is well known for his mental instability and habits off stealing everything even if it's nailed down hell even the nails. he is a fucking gypsy that has serious reptilian symptoms of flapping around uncontrollably with his tongue.
if you call that solid then please come here to live.
frankly you need to understand the context of him speaking out against refugees in his entire political carrier he had to find enemies to "fight" because that is the only thing he can do is to oppose a group that preferable can't fight back. of course this is just mostly rhetorics not the practical implementation of policies. unless there is money (preferably eu money) to steal for his friends then they actually go at it and do something (like the fence).
basically if hungary did nothing then it would have been the simpler cheapest course of action and the logical one. no refugee is stupid enough to settle here. we could have ignored them. instead a fuckton of money was spent on a stupid useless fence i could probably jump over without slowing down, but anyone that asked nicely was let through anyways.
>>678569 Yeah, I'm just kinda playing around and getting a few for how the steel behaves and stuff. I fully expected my first few knives to be balls. I guess I'll go ahead and flatten the handle.
>>678575 Hahaha my plan was to make it ergonomic and fit my hand really well. It does, it feels really nice now (aside from a few imperfections). My plan was to cut the handles into that shape, then sand it out to match that exactly, then sand it and file it down by hand to round it off and smooth it out. I tried to get fancy and I shouldn't have.
>>678678 Glad to hear that. Might be a little smaller than intended, but if I fatten the scales up a bit, it should do fine, right? Though it doesn't really matter, I'll probably put it away in a shoe box with a note that says "baby's first knoife".
doesn't look like it's going to last. Live and see.
At least, our knife laws are good - just ordered a switchblade online - feelsgood.jpg (need it for a film-noir photo project at the end of february. Incidentally, I'll be needing a fedora and a trench coat for that :P )
You just have to be careful around city watch - them dawgs are really salty about not being "real police".
There is also no limit on the type of knife, so anything goes - fixed blades, switchblades, balisongs, open carry or concealed (though concealed is preferable, since people who don't know you have a knife are less likely to make a fuss about it).
It's not all fun and games though - biggest problem is that not all makers are represented in Poland - I don't know of any shops, domestically, that carry tops, ltwk, al-mar, gec, and other brands.
Then there's yuro-tax. A 60-70 dollar knife can cost 130 euro here, which is basically double the price (because the new price includes VAT and customs).
I redid the handle. You guys were right, it's much better this way. I drilled the holes for the handle pins and for the lanyard. I'm gonna see if I can borrow my buddy's band saw to cut this piece of African Blackwood I have.
>>678828 >A 60-70 dollar knife can cost 130 euro here same here in hungary but if you order from ebay there is a good chance of it slipping through it's how i got my knife for usa webshop price + shipping
>>678828 That's pretty neat. About the taxes and the presence of the knife brands, thats the same here in Hungary. The best choice is to buy from knife manufacturers and blacksmithes but their prices are really high compared to the wages here. A decent knife starts above 80-90 euros.
>>679318 O1, since it'll be easiest for me to heat treat.
>>679323 Agreed. Really glad I did it. It was comfy before, but I think it's even better now honestly. I can play around with trickier handles later if I really want to.
>>679351 Thanks bruh. If you're actually interested in making your own, you can do it all with hand files and a lot of time. It's not as much fun as slapping the steel against a belt grinder, but you can definitely make a knife lol.
The only real concern with the power tools is the sound. I've carved out a little space in my garage and I've started setting up a little workshop. It's pretty messy and I don't have many tools and I haven't organized what I do have, but whatever.
How necessary is to heat treat a blade? I'd like to make a knife but I don't have the mecessary equipment to heat treat properly and I don't want to fuck the steel up, can I skip the process amd still get a useable knife?
>>679921 Depends, do you want your knife to have any edge holding capability whatsoever? If so the heat treatment is probably the most important thing on a knife otherwise you'll be sharpening it every 10 minutes.
>>679682 I love them, they're fun as hell to play with and they make great edc knives if your laws wherever you live allow them. They aren't very good for /out/ purposes though because they are still folders and fixed blades are the only way to go when you're doing /out/ stuff. I sure as fuck wouldn't baton with mine and I wouldn't want a bunch of blood and hair in my pivots either.
There are good ones and there are bad ones just like any other type of knife so I don't think they're a meme knife but the selection of good ones is pretty fucking small at the moment and you gotta be willing to spend money on them.
Right now basically brs and benchmade are the only companies putting out good knives in any number. Any of the benchmade balis are good, but for edc and flipping, you want the 51 at about $230. Their other balis are good too, but they're just not as good flippers due to size in the case of the 32 and size and weight in the case of the 6x series. I own a 32 because my state has a 4" blade length restriction unless you have a ccw and it's the best knife I've ever used for edc. My old edc folders got separation anxiety when I brought it home.
From brs you have the replicant at about $270 and the alpha beast at about $370. Both are just fantastic knives. The rep's blade shape is kinda wonky I think but I have no real complaints about them.
Pic related is my new rep I picked up a few days ago.
one thing I dislike about balisongs, is that they have silly grinds and narrow blades. The narrow blade is a requirement of the design, pretty much, but the saber grinds that go with it mean that even with 1/8'' thick blades, you have rather poor geometry.
I much prefer fixed blades and normal folders for edc.
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