Old thread is nearly bumped out.
Why must you always fucking post shit knives in the OP?
What's the advantage to thinner blades like that? Compared to lots of knives (especially folders) where the profile is wide and almost looks like a butcher's knife in shape. I noticed the Moras are kinda like that too, blade almost looks like a filet knife, but not quite as long and thin.
this shit is so gay
how autistic do you have to be to take it upon yourself to become the forced mod of /k/ and /out/ knife threads? better post in every single one like anybody gives a fuck about your sperging
might as well leave your trip on, christ
One, and this is the original one.
Where are my Knoife bros at?
This one wasn't created by an autistic faggot so this one I would guess.
Any of you guys own anything by Daniel Winkler? Not his Dances With Wolves looking stuff, the practical designs? I'm really struggling with not buying one but it'd cost me a good 350 bong bucks - steep by any measure when you look at what else is on the market.
In my opinion nothing can match the high quality and practical user friendly interface of an Microtech Ultratech.
Personally, I LOVE Winkler's designs.
In my oppinion, the perfect blend of tacticoolnes and extreme ruggedness with traditional looks, which make many of his designs a 10/10 in my book.
It's just a pleasure to have a traditional looking knife that performs like an ugly Busse or Mission without attracting the autistic audience.
I dont have any myself but I am an avid knife collector and enthusiast, so I trust my judgement.
The shittiest LM ever, the skeletool. A gerber and 2 fantasy knives. Micra sure is handy when fishing.
What is that orange knife? It looks functional?
Skeletool is ok so far. I wanted something for fishing that has full-size pliers and a knife. The Micra sucks (for my use at least) because it has scissors instead.
The orange one is a Kershaw Antelope Hunter. They are $15-$20 all over eBay because it is a discontinued model.
Heh. Engrish not not bad.
I figured somebody would get it confused. I don't know my knife terminology so well, which is why I posted the pic. Wide as in distance from the spine to the cutting edge or whatever, not the thickness of the blade.
if by rat you mean RAT cutlery (as in esee before they became esee, specifically the ontario rat 1 and rat 2 folders, similar to the esee avispa) then I'd say spyderco.
Buck i'd only consider for nostalgia reasons and the buck 110 folding hunter, but at nearly 7 ounces that's hardly an edc knife.
Gets the job done. Pic related is basically why I bought it, needed a decent size blade for the tackle box. It isn't too big tho and comes with a leather sheath. Comes with a black handle too for the same price. I guess they were around $40-$50 before they got disco'd.
to what? lt doesn't make folders, but as for fixed blades, they compare favourably to esee, tops, benchmade and spyderco. They are a bit more expensive than esee, but well worth it in my opinion. And cheaper than some of tops' knives.
LT has excellent heat treat, and their knives come with great 90 degree spines (technically, you could do that yourself with other knives if you know how to sharpen ice skates).
Also - their handles are nothing short of amazing. People often underestimate the importance of a good handle.
Besides LTWK, there are Battle Horse Knives (LT and BHK used to be part of Blind Horse Knives together, before they split).
You can check youtube for guys like e2e, mantisoutdoors, pm101, black scout survival, and others - they are pretty much unanimous about LT. As long as you are willing to make the jump from 50-80 dollar knives, to 150 dollar ones, i'd say go for it.
I carry a next gen, because it's perfect for edc (3'' blade). Other than that i'd recommend either a full size genesis, or a bushcrafter, but the GNS is just as good. And there's supposed to be an oversized genesis some time this year, but that might be overkill. Still, lt doesn't currently make any large fixed blades (they did some custom work for bladesports, but those were more for promotion).
I'm kind of kicking myself that I missed the JX2 preorders, so now I'm waiting until it's in regular production to pick one up.
They can all be good but the Byrd line of spyderco are great for less expensive knives
The best bang for the buck that I can think of would be the buck vantage pro with its s30v, I haven't found a knife with as good of a steel for as good of a price other than maybe the crkt ken onion skinner but that's a fixed blade
Adding that the byrd crow2 and raven 2 are especially nice. I'd avoid the stainless steel handle byrds unless you're really into that.
As shown, I like the general shape of the knife. it doesn't have an awkward big steel lump near the base of the blade that gets in the way of cutting food on cutting boards or interferes with sharpening, and the nearly flat grind is a good cutting geometry for small wood tasks, the curve of the belly lends itself well to skinning and filleting, as well as handling common tasks like box opening and cutting rope.
I'd like the same blank shape but with a FFG (which is an option from the maker) and slightly more aggressive gimping on the thumb ramp and some gimping on choil for more control, which I'd have to modify with my dremel. I really like that the blade is M390 tool steel , I don't mind that they're a bit harder to sharpen with "super steels" with my DMT hones it doesn't take that much longer to get them razor sharp, and prefer edge retention to ease of sharpening.
The grip seems grippy enough for control but I'd prefer some more rounded edges for comfort in hand when pressure is applied, and a again it appears that the option to go to a wood handle will be available, maybe.
As is, I would rate the knife as 9/10 for a "legal" sized EDC fixed blade. Solid knife choice from an American made knife.
Haven't looked into knives for a little while, but did some research a while ago and never ended up buying one, was deciding between an Esee 6 and a Becker BK7, but leaning towards the esee, are these still worth it? Are there any new 6-7 inch full tang blades that would be good? Any recommendations welcome really
Of those two I like the bk7 because it lacks the choil and has a more ergonomic handle, check out the bk12 which isn't a kabar made becker so its more expensive but its a good knife
What exactly do you want it for? A smaller knife paired with an axe or hatchet when you need to do heavy work might be more versatile
Holy shit, are you serious? Do you really care THAT much? Oh, self-proclaimed moderator of /out/ I pledge my allegiance to you! What is your bidding today, master? FUCK, you must be SO lonely and SO power hungry to do this shit. Get off your high horse, you miserable shitter.
Winkler is one of the few knives I have on my wish list, but I think they're a bit too pricey for a stock removal (not that it should matter too much if quality is good) and I'd like to hold one first to see how they feel in hand, and I can't decide on model and handle.
Those sheaths are really nice though, would like to try make something similar myself.
Anyhow, Winkler will have to wait 'cause I ordered a Lon Humphrey Vanguard. Pic related.
What are you doing to that poor fish?
>throw it in the grass and leaves
>against a fence
>stick a knife in its neck
Postan my sad little collection because I've been a poorfag until this year, and even now I have other essential gear to buy before I can expand. Mostly gifts except for the leatherman MT. Batarang is actually ridiculously sharp and holds an edge really well
Also shaved with one of the bowies on a dare, didn't do too bad
>taking a batman knife innawoods
What's it like to have autism you nigger
>taking a batman knife innawoods
You might have autism when you buy an overpriced bushcraft knife that you don't take innawoods. The anon said he's a poorfag. The knives he has are the knives he will have for now.
There's nothing wrong with the batman-knife. Personally, I would re-grind the blades but that's just me.
s don't go /out/
I'm poor as well.
The only knife I bought is the Opinel, rest were gifts.
>There's nothing wrong with the batman-knife.
Not that anon but that knife is the ultimate of mall ninja knife, pretty much useless, the other fixed blade on the left is also really cringy. Not making fun of him since that anon said he was a poorfag until now. Gladly seems he's getting better and now he can buy better things, or not if he doesn't feel the need to
I have that same SAK on the left but my corkscrew got bent opening a bottle of whine. :'(
Nice Anon, is the butterfly Benchmade?
The only one I actually bought was the multitool, the batman thing was a gift from my girlfriend and the two bowies I got from a family friend who was looking to get rid of them
Now that I'm spending less on /tg/ stuff and am actually getting paid more than minimum wage I'll be getting an SOG trident or flash and a Spyderco Delica for EDC
Also a ka-bar or seal pup for innawoods
This thread seems appropriate to my question, can any tell me the name of the weave used on this lanyard, I'm making up a lanyard for my work knife and can't find any information on how to make this style, specifically how to tie the bead at the end without a protruding knot
What would you recommend instead? I thought those were gold standard when it comes to fixed blade full sized utility knives
I apologize if this seems ignorant, I've only ever used sheet stamped machetes for innawoodsing
I'd say a kephart style, full flat or scandi grind blade. Start with condor bushlore, and go up as budget allows. A drop point will work as well, or get something based on the french trade knife.
Some other examples: tops bob, ltwk genesis, ltwk gary wines bushcrafter, falkniven f1/a1, esee 4, etc.
Thinking about a Spyderco Paramilitary 2, any reason not to go with it for EDC/as a second knife innawoods?
Grew up and still live in the tropics. I pretty much always carried one of these everywhere.
Greatest folder of all time in my opinion. It's just a little too big for EDC for me though, at least in your pocket. There's some great leather belt sheaths you can get for it as an alternative carry method.
Here's your (you), you faggot autist.
Anyway, if one day I get a better job, ADDbux or a relative who likes me dies, should I get the Fallkniven A1 or S1? Don't do anything in the way of batoning (probably never will, it's a stupid meme), I just want a solid knoife that I can attach to and detach from a stick whenever the fancy strikes me. Maybe pass it onto my children, whenever that happens.
There was some anon in Spain, and I was actually looking around on eBay for him. Seems like most stuff on Spain's eBay would come from Germany and shipping was 15€-20€ on everything. There were US vendors still offering to sell the Antelope for 15€-20€, but then shipping was close to 20€ and then I guess he would have to pay extra taxes on it when it was delivered.
The only decent options for knives under 50€ seemed to be Spanish manufactures through Spanish vendors. Although the German vendors did carry everything you could possibly want.
Chinese made, ordered it at gearbest, free shipping, 16,05€.
There are quite some models and every reviewer I've seen on youtube says they're great price/value. Some anon recommended me the brand on a /k/ thread.
Ganzo is chinese, and they typically run 10-25$. Amazon has many models.
They're mostly in 440c, mostly solid, and many are copies of other knives. That one for example is a copy of lion steel molletta.
That Ganzo G720 is actually pretty awesome. Very smooth folding action, and for the price I could not care less if the blade is made from the best steel ever invented. The orange material actually isn't plastic, but apperas to be machined out of solid G10/FR4 glass fibre material, the same stuff circuit boards are made off, but orange. Extremely durable and hase a nice texture. I recommend it.
They're fine. Very rarely there may be a manufacturing mistake or a seller stores the item bare blade in the leather sheath and it rusts.
I like the Moonshiner and another good model that doesn't get mentioned much is the Stratos.
Family foto of my cheap folders
>each knife is $20 sometimes less than $10
>carbon steel, delicious carbon steel
The handle is cheap as fuck and they messed the tip up somewhat during grinding. Got it new and ordered online.
On the plus side, I payed around €5 for it, the blade is sharp as fuck and it has no secondary bevel, just a flat grind going into a convex edge. It is easy as 123 to sharpen and judging from a kitchen knife I got from the same folks it will hold an edge really well, they must harden their blades close to 60 HRC.
The leaf blade is excellent for food prep and cutting cordage. Impressive spring for such a basic slip joint. Also light and rides well in the pocket.
I like it a lot so far and will definitely use it for mushroom hunting and fishing and other chores when spring comes. I can understand your people. Cheap no nonsense knife, imho on par with a Opi or even a bit better.
>blade is excellent for food
Pretty much all my uncle used it for. I advice you to clean if after some use because the handle tends to act as a shit magnet and the inside part looks disgusting after some time.
Cheap switchblade I bought in a market in India
Gerber Remix Tactical (gift)
Mora Heavy Duty Robust
Do we know what type of steel this will be? All I can find is that its stainless.
You need some American slipjoints to round out that collection
LT Wright Genesis, Gary Wines Bushcrafter, something by Battle Horse Knives, Helle makes one that's full tang.
Don't know if you consider tops to be "pure scandi grind", but there's the BOB fieldcraft knife, scandi trekker, etc.
I love my finnish army knife, the so called "sissipuukko."
It's the best.
What's the point of multiple blades on a folding knife? Backup?
"Might as well" is the thinking. If you make the handle thick enough for good grip, there's room for more. And yes, the different blades often have different utility.
For example with whittling you can use the bigger blade to pull off larger chunks, and the smaller blades for detail work.
Love it, dude. I'm a Brit, used to carry a Spyderco UKPK and it had some great characterstics (good clip, lightweight, nice choil) but ultimately the downsides outweighed them - It's a very aggressive looking knife for sheeple, but also it's very thin handled, not that sturdy and GIN-1 is shitty steel.
The F&F Bullnose tho.. Love the tool steel, love the blade profile (very similar to an Opinel), love the contour and shape of the handle and general 'classical' style. Sheeple friendly. The only downside is lack of clip, IMO, somewhat mitigated by my lanyard setup.
Heres a quick and dirty OC of mine.
I'm no knife expert or enthusiast, but I bought a Mora a few months back that I've been extremely impressed with. Is there any reason I shouldn't buy like 5 of them and put one in the car, one in the boat, etc.? Maybe even buy a set to use as steak knives?
Just buy cheap folders or find one that is pretty tough
Now that I'm thinking about it buck has a lifetime warranty, they don't cover abuse but they will fix or replace something that fails crime normal use, they also make a heavy duty folding knife that is meant to handle hard use so if you get one and it breaks they will probably replace it if you know how to ask politely
Its called the buck csart, its as close to what you want as I can think of right now
Asking for opinions.
I'm going to get a cheap folding knife. Either one of the pictured knives or an Ontario Rat
>ships from China
If you are in the US, don't order from that vendor.
There is this website calls knifeworks I believe, I ordered something from them. And they actually carry Esee folders that are made in that same factory in Taiwan as the RAT folders. Supposedly it is the only place to buy a quality knife made in Asia. Those Esee folders looked nice too. I don't think you can go wrong with the RAT knives or those Esee folders from Knifeworks.
One thing I heard about the RAT folders is that the larger one is normally a bit too big for an EDC if you want to keep it in your pocket comfortably.
Get the rat 2, there are a lot of good inexpensive Chinese made folders but I try not to by the ones that are direct rip offs of knives or patents
The rats are great knives though, work very well /out/
Does Home Depot or Lowes actually sell any decent knives in-store? I was looking online, and Home Depot has some Kershaw, Gerber, and Camillus blades for good prices. They have lots of Leathermans too. But idk if they carry much of it in their stores. They have the Leatherman Skeletool for like $44, and the CX is only around $65. I could've gotten te CX at Home Depot for what I paid for my normal one at Dick's.
I'm right by a Home Depot, so just wondering if it's worth going in.
I'm one of the guys making a knife. This is my first attempt. I glued the handles and filed them into shape today. It kinda looks like a steak knife, but I'm happy with how it turned out. Just gotta do some more sanding, wax the wood and put an edge on the blade and she'll be done.
>left knife sitting in container
>didn't know it had water sitting in it
>the 4 screws are now rusty
How easy are they to replace?
The screws on the sheath? Probably really easy. Bring it to Lowes or Home Depot and find some screws that fit. The only problem is the screws on the back. If they are like the CRKT ones I have, the female end is a long, flat one. You might have to search online for those, maybe email SOG. Or else if you can't clean the rusty ones and repaint them if you want, just grab some small flat nuts instead.
Lowes, Home Depot or Ace Hardware will have an aisle with tons of drawers full of nuts, bolts, and screws. Just bring it there and find something that fits. It will probably be like $1 for a few nuts and bolts.
Me again, found this:
"THE BUCK FOREVER WARRANTY
We warranty each and every Buck knife to be free of defects in material and workmanship for the life of the knife, and we will repair or replace with a new Buck knife, at our option, any Buck knife that is defective. Buck Knives does not warrant its products against normal wear or misuse. Buck Knives are not intended to be used as hammers, chisels, pry bars or screwdrivers. If your knife was damaged due to misuse, our repair department can analyze the damage and repair it for a reasonable fee. If your knife is unable to be repaired, we will extend a one- time courtesy offer, allowing you the option to purchase a new knife for 50% off of our MSRP price listed on the website, excluding any custom knives or web specials."
What do you guys think about the full tang knives by Spyderco? This one looks interesting to me as a good outdoor knife and they talk about it being good for both chopping and skinning.
"One of the most distinctive characteristics of the Schempp Rock is its unique dropped-handle design. The angle between the handle and the blade allows the user's hand to maintain a strong, natural wrist angle and lowers the blade and cutting edge in relationship to the line of the forearm. This provides enhanced control during cutting, reduces fatigue, and transfers energy more efficiently during chopping motions. The handle features full-tang construction for strength and textured, injection-molded, fiberglass-reinforced-nylon handle scales for a secure, comfortable grip."
The specs seem decent too.
"length overall 12.25 " (311 mm)
blade length 6.75 " (171 mm)
blade steel VG-10
length closed n/a (n/a)
cutting edge 6 " (152 mm)
weight 9.1 oz. (257 g)
blade thickness .125 " (3 mm)
handle material FRN"
Without knowing anything more about it than the picture and what you posted, the grind looks well executed, spyderco folding knives have some of the best geometry around, they are usually thin behind the edge and make for great slicers
The leaf shape of the blade will put the weight forward helping it chop a little better but its not going to be an axe and the recuve acts like a cross between a kerambit and a saber, the inside curve gathers material and increases pressure in the cut but then instead of snagging on a point the belly will tend to want to slice through and keep going
There is a knife maker in the south that talks about them being good on fibrous plants but I don't have experience with that
I was about to say a bunch of Mora, good thing I looked for replies. Generally, out or at work I'll carry two basic plastic handle Moras - one I'm nice to and one I'm rough with. When the nice one gets worn down or the rough one gets too messed up (can be years, mind) swap in a spare.
From personal experience, you can get decent knifes pretty cheap in Albacete, I mean solid construction, no blade play, good lock, but don't expect super steel, they work mostly with stainless.
Muela is great, pretty much the spanish equivalent to buck.
Then you got the Pallares folding knives, similar to Opinel, they use carbon steel, but the handle is made of ABS plastic and they have no lock. They are super comfy for eating.
Joker makes some decent stuff, but mostly cheap things.
Aitor has some quality fixed blades and survival knives. My brother has the one in the picture, "Aitor Oso Blanco", and the thing is just orgasmic to hold.
Other anon here..
Seems counter productive for a chopper to have the edge geometry of a slicer, don't you think? 3mm stock and vg10 I'd be worried about rolling and chipping the edge when chopping.
Ultimately it depends what you want the knife for. For me an /out/ knife is a working knife that primarily is going to be for cutting wood.
Spyderco make good knives, they're usually well designed and use good materials. BUT they're a tactical knife maker that has only gotten into building /out/ knives recently.
The big swell behind the choil and the grooved handle will cause hot spots and limit the number of grips you'll be able to make.
Yes the recurve aids in slicing, but it also makes it harder to sharpen. And personally I like having a straight section of edge at the ricasso for precision cuts.
Equally, VG10 is a decent steel but personal preference for an /out/ knife is a tool steel.
Same idea with grind. Not a fan of flat ground edges four /out/ work, I prefer convex (for choppers especially) as theres more steel behind the edge, or scandi grinds (sure with a secondary micro bevel) as it gives greater control working wood.
FRN, sure, it's an okay material. But for an expensive knife? Personal preference for G10.
It's also a bit big to be good at dressing game IMO
Ultimately, you have to ask yourself what you're going to use your knife for. Are you going to be doing rough work where a chopper might be useful (but not as useful as an axe....) or are you going to be doing fine work, in which case (IMO) a 4'' bladed knife would suit you better.
If you don't know a lot about knives then I suggest you do some reading, but also put weight into the traditional pattern knives - kephart, the western bushcraft style knife (short bevel scandi), the puukko/leukko scandi knives, these are all utilitarian designs proven by time. IMO the Spyderco is a relabelled tactical knife.
Ran out of text, also bear your sharpening ability and ease of sharpening of whatever knife you buy. Recurves can be tricky, equally long edges can be tougher. VG10 is an okay stainless to sharpen (not as bad as CMP3V and all those super tough steels) but it's no where near as easy to put a razor edge on it as a simple carbon steel like O1.
BTW pics related is what I'd consider perfect bush knives. I believe in the right tool for the job so a <4'' knife coupled with saw, axe and/or machete is the way to go IMO.
Pic related. Cost me 30$ in Nepal. Ground out the choil myself to be able to get a bit more leverage on my cuts. But I always always have a pocket knife and a folding saw on me too. Axe only comes out if I know I'm going to be processing a lot of wood.
Also, batoning is a meme..
>counter productive for a chopper to have the edge geometry of a slicer
Its not, the edge is going to bite deep, for a knife that small a thicker heavier grind won't bite as deep and I wouldn't worry much about chipping unless its used on knots but convexing the edge would help
That knife is way too small to replace a hatchet though, if that's the idea then the blade should probably be around 8 inches give or take
not a fan of full tang kukris - i prefer sticks.
It's not as nice now, as when I took this picture but whatever. Still a great chopper.
And as for batoning - modern steels can handle a lot more than in the old days.
Actually - I think the "one stick fire" is more of a meme than batoning is.
Could you guys help me choosing a folding knife for my father?
Something classic looking, no thumb studs/holes, clips or anything like that because he doesn't even use them. Rock solid and good blade.
His favourite knife until he lost was a lockback with a rather wide (maybe 3,5-4cm) blade.
it's also heavy as sin at almost 7 ounces, and quite large. There are smaller models (like the 112 I think), but I'd still prefer a GEC, or Case if I didn't want to shell out that much cash.
>If it can help, I'm mostly going to sharpen my Opinel (both carbon and stainless steel), SAK, incoming Ganzo and some stainless steel junk.
Yes that helps, you can take a smaller stone if you only use it for short blades and don't have full size kitchen knifes to take care off. Smaller size == cheaper.
Oh it doesn't replace an axe, no knife can IMO. But as I said if I'm not out to process a lot of wood thats what I take, along with a saw, which is the crucial bit of kit out of the two.
The Buck 110 is a wonderful knife. Most Bucks are and they often have web specials well worth looking into. >>684047 hit it right on the head. With that said, if you're willing to go with a fixed blade and spend $180 ( original price $240 ) you can get their limited edition 118 Personal knife ( http://www.buckknives.com/product/118-personal-build-out/0118BO6-B/ ) featuring a handle made from stag. A big beauty.
If you are truly fixed on getting him a folder you can customize one for him. Visit http://www.buckknives.com/custom-knife-shop/ and select the knife of your choice. They also have some folders on sale in their special shop ( http://www.buckknives.com/web-specials/ ) right now.
The buck 112 is a little shorter and lighter, not necessarily a bad thing
I don't know if your dad would be into it but there are 110 sheaths that will lock the blade open when drawn, one place that makes them just calls them quick draw sheaths, at around $40 its not essential but it is cool
It sounds cool but probably not his kind of stuff.
Hell I remember when I gifted him a nice folder with a thumb stud. Every single time I saw him using it, he just opened it like a slipjoint
If he's using it for fishing and hunting go with the 110 or the 112. I personally like fixed blades because you don't have to worry about getting the insides dirty. I personally would prob go with the ram horn or waterbuffalo handled 113 Ranger Skinner because it has the Lanyard loop for my hand, they look beautiful, are great for gutting/skinning/other detailed work and because you're using a product of nature there will never be another knife exactly like it. I also feel I could get more use out of engraving the bolster of the 113 than I could the 110 or 112.
Pic related; example of how I would do the knife.
Buck 110 done similarly, sadly I had to engrave the blade in order to make it work. 112 has even less to work with.
This website I ordered from, Knifeworks.com, they will engrave basically any knife for a few dollars more.
If you are really into the engraving, check out that website. They carry basically everything too. Not sure where you are, but shipping was cheap and fast for me in the US.
Any of you guys have experience with Ganzo knives?
I want a cheap knife and I was considering this brand, the models I like range from 11 to 15€ but on the other hand, an Ontario Rat 1 would cost me 20€.
I've had a G704 and a G710 for roughly six months. I haven't used the G710 at all because I don't like the ergonomics, but the G704 hits the sweet spot very nicely and I've used it a lot.
The blades are a bit thick though compared to the models they are cloned after.
Yes but you have other choices.
Many other choices.
From varusteleka I'd only consider the full tang Puukos with rubber handle, that and the Skrama are the really unique things they offer.
After watching some reviews, specially from that russian guy who makes hard use tests, this was my second option.
It also fits my 50€ budget including shipping from US.
Not bad either, although I recommend you buy some scales for that.
"survival" is not a chore if you do like the natives, just dont use your knife when you should be using something else.
If you're not in US buy something from a local store, plenty of choices there.
I wouldn't buy anything from US usually because shipping and tax make everything expensive but that knife has a decent pricing.
The con about local store is that I won't have so many info to know if I'm buying something worth the price tag or not and it is always more expensive than buying online.
Just found a online store from my country with awesome prices, beats the cheapest I found on eBay and amazon.
Opinel 8 for 7,5€, basic Morakniv for 8€, now I just have to see the shipping cost.
Nice I saw the military version in a shop from my town I think is called "Oso Negro". Looks like a great knife but is expensive, I think I'll get a better price from a spanish online store if i decide to buy it.
Check the website listed on pic related, I guess they do international shipping since you can set the web to english.
Sadly they only have this one, currently on sale at 52€.
The store is worth looking at, literally the best prices I've found (at least for me living in Spain).
>dat ugly camo though
I once bought some mora knifes from an online store from Spain its' called filo fiel, they have fast and good service ( they arrived to me in 8 days) and I think it has free shipping for Spain and canarias, maybe you can check it out.
There are two types of tang, everything else is a subcategory, partial tangs, like the 3/4 and 1/2 tangs you see on plastic handle Mora which run part way through the handle and full tangs which run the full length of the handle, like most swords, it has never had anything to do with the width of the tang
People who get their knowledge from YouTube are the ones that started the "tru-full tang" meme
Has anyone used this before? I like the idea of a nice sized machete with a saw on the back but no idea if Meme steel are the only brand who make a decent Machete like this.
Because they usually just aren't made right to function as a saw, they won't be ground right or have the right kerf (saw teeth are wider than the blade so it doesn't bind)
From that picture it looks like the saw teeth on that model are just triangular cutouts without any edge at all, though I could be wrong
A small folding saw or even a swiss army knife worth a saw will cut wood much better than most saw back machete
you need something along the lines of a bahco folding saw plus a regular machete. sawbacks on knives/machetes are made for notching not sawing.
in case you haven't grasped it yet, you need a saw for sawing.
I've never heard of one that works well
I know Gerber makes one but I heard they had trouble with the blade breaking at the tang when they first made them, I think they fixed the problem though
Those are going for about $180 with the sheath and custom ferro rod. pic related, my personal knife. They're all O1 steel heat treated to 59 hrc (i have a tester). Mine is actually at like 62 hrc because it was only like the 3rd knife I've ever made.
What does /out/ suggest for sharpening? I'm not quite ready to free hand yet and want a kit for now. I'm willing to spend some money if needed but gonna pick up a spyderco edgemaker off craigslist for $50
Would the edgepro be worth the money? I used my friends lansky system and that made a real nice edge on my knife.
I'm not quite ready to free hand so what do you guys say?
>I'm not quite ready to free hand
I've been more than adequate at hand sharpening for a while now, and I still reach for the spyderco sharpmaker from time to time.
I get a much better result when I take my time with a stone and strop, but the sharpmaker is quick and easy as fuck to use. Its especially useful to me when the edge just needs a little touch up.
They typically go for 50-55 brand new at walmart and amzon. If you get it used/through Craigslist, and I recommend you do that, you might hold out for a better price.
Beyond that, get a relatively cheap stone if you don't already have one, and some knives you don't completely care about and work on using your hand. I think you'll be surprised at how quickly you pick it up if you don't have to worry about ruining something you care about and want to carry.
>they had trouble with the blade breaking at the tang
that is because they don't have any tang to speak of and the parang looks like it could be used to cut shit but looks are deceiving gerber machetes are for cutting grass and even suck at that.
what you need in a saw if you want to make progress is hardened biting teeth that is alternating to clear the wood and don't get stuck. gereber gator is alternating and not a triangular crap like the ontario. i seen some nice reviews about it actually doing good job with trees up to 10 inch in diameter you can possibly go 12 but it will be a much slower progress.
I'd honestly recommend just learning to do it by hand, but that's just because of my personal preference as I've always had a knack for it.
That said, >>685347 is right in that you'd be surprised how easily you can pick it up with a little patience, and that it is always nice to practice on a knife/axe/whatever that you don't really care about.
I'm in Canada and it retails across the board at over $100 unfortunately so this is a good deal.
Thing is; I know that free hand will never be as good as using a system. And I know that because I've been sharpening chainsaws for a long time and can still not do it as well by hand as with guides or even close to as consistent with machines
Just checked it, not as cheap as the other store but good prices indeed and if they have free shipping is actually a good place if you're going to order just one knife.
I can't talk about that model, but the saw in this one >>683957 is sharp as fuck. I'm used to shitty saws in knives, and playing with my brother's Oso Blanco I cut myself for the first time.
Which one for a first /out/ knife?
I can make my own sheat.
If thats a good price where you're at then go for it. I just didn't want to seem like a shill. Most people, myself included, will say go by hand but the sharpmaker honestly isn't a bad system.
In a way its sort of the most "by hand" of the different systems you can by as you don't lock the knife in a fixed position. Because of that it isn't entirely "idiot proof" but its pretty damn close. I don't mean that as a knock against you, just in general. Its technically possible to use one and not do it right but its hard to really mess it up for anybody that isn't completely brain dead.
I've had the one that looks like a black dildo, it's great. Anyway, I recommend a regular Mora Companion carbon. It lacks the huge finger guard that is good for work use, but not so good for /out/.
Good to know. Like I said I wouldn't actually mind getting an idiot proof system at some point and I take no offense in what you said.
I've been sharpening chainsaws by hand for quite a while and even though I can get it pretty damn good I'll never have a chain as sharp as the machine can do it which is why I'd like a retard proof system. I do plan to eventually learn freehand sharpening for knives but not just yet in my life.
Do any of you have experience modding knives?
I really like Opinel kinves and I don't want to get anything else but i want to make mine something unique.
I want to do something with the handle, that won't be hard, but what could I do with the blade?
I prefer hand but in the end, for me, it depends on the edge itself. If I take the time to put a really nice convex edge on one of my knives, I'm never going to take it to my sharpmaker.
When my Leatherman Wave gets a little dull thats a completely different story.
Systems can be somewhat adjustable, but in my experience, they more often than not give you one choice. Its execution of that choice is often perfect and repeatable every time. That's the appeal. Its just not ideal in every application. That's where the flexibiltiy of hand techniques come into play. I wouldn't say one is better than the other. Systems are a luxury item of sorts designed to make one specific thing easier, and that's totally fine. Its just not necessarily and end all be all, unless of course that's all you really need.
I have two. Carried the M/95 during my conscript service.
You could etch something into the blade if you wanted to customize it, but I wouldn't try to change the shape or anything. The blade is already hardened and not only would it be difficult to do, but altering it could compromise the structural integrity of the blade.
Thinking about buying a Grohmann Canadian Belt knife, should i get the flat grind? for an additonal charge? I plan on using this as a widdler / skinning / light camp use knife. should i?
Good purchase for 29€?
I'm going to sharpen folding knifes only, specially Opinel and SAK.
I'm going to order a Ganzo soon, from my research, G720 and G704 are considered the best/strognest ones.
G727 (Rat 1 clone) and G729 (PM2 clone) also have some good reviews.
i got the 4 rods (2 diam, and 2 ceramic). The 2 rod version is coarser.
Mostly I use the ceramic, but i don't let my knives get really dull. If you need to put an edge on a knife that's really worn, the diamond comes in handy.
something with a good belly, and not very long (so you can index the tip with your finger, while holding the handle).
My top pick would be a nessmuk, or something like the BM hidden canyon (or the old bone collector skinner).
Not only Benchmade.
They took the axis lock and put it on all kinds of knives. They copy Ontario, Spyderco, and even Lionsteel.
They seem to do one hell of a job though..