>Where to Buy:
Old Thread >>52455099
Price range? LEDs or no LEDs? Switch type (see pic)? What size/layout?
Well, something not too fucking expensive
>LEDs or no LEDs
If LED keyboards are more expensive, then no
Probably brown or red
Full (I'm used to typing numbers on the numpad, but willing to try the Tenkeyless too.)
I got a ducky shine 3 in red cherry mx as my first
real smooth to type on and not noisy as fuck but it's out of production now so you might not find it everywhere
I've tried browns and clears as well and must conclude that clears are universally superior to browns with better tactility and better feel
tl;dr cmstorm quickfire rapid/ducky zero in reds or code tkl in clears
if you want to gayme I won't recommend any less than tkl due to using the fn key for the f row. The code is more expensive but that's because of backlighting and clears being more uncommon compared to blues, browns and reds
Hi /mkg/, where's a good place to buy decent Mini USB cables? Braided is preferred, cost isn't an issue. Checked the pastebin, the two links are old and I can't find anything in them.
Pic related, the Poker II I bought for $40 and fixed.
You have two options for color.
1: Coordinate with your desk and other peripherals
2: Whatever the heck you feel like
>Browns are literally blues without a click
Except they're not. That's the main reason why they're shit.
Currently typing on clears. They're much more tactile than browns, but sadly they still fail to recreate the crisp bump of blues.
Anyone here use the AJAZZ Geeks AK33? Is it any good? Also if you know any trusted places to buy it that'd be nice to know thanks
I want to buy my first mech keyboard, I am going to get either a pok3r or a ducky shine 5. Are there any reasons that one would be better than the other? I play games but only very casually so I'm not concerned about the size. Also im concerned about the quality of the shines keycaps .
Shine 5 keycaps should be ABS but that's kinda like the standard for backlit keyboards. You can get PBT caps from vortex to replace them.
Apart from that, the biggest difference would be size
FC660M, noppoo choc mini, keycool 84 (slightly better chinkshit)
ds5 owner here, the default keycaps are pretty decent. they're ABS, sure, but they're a lot thicker than shit like WASD caps probably because they're doubleshot. should be fine if you don't feel like replacing the caps.
from what i've heard WASD boards themselves are actually pretty good, it's just the keycaps that are shit.
if you're deadset on a WASD board, get one without caps and find some good PBT caps somewhere and you should be fine.
the shine 5 is a damn good board too, though. i have no complaints. either way you should be fine.
Cherry leopold or topre?
If topre, good luck ;^)
>all these pictures of keyboards
Nice, this is what a keyboard thread should look like
I have keyboards with both, and they're both really nice.
I prefer Topre over MX Clear, but I could go back to using my old keyboard with clears and I'd still be absolutely happy with it.
Get a switch tester.
>mfw planetary pack and remaining modifiers (ctrl, alt, right shift) are in the mail.
>mfw cherry peasant have to buy additional rubber at scam prices HOPING to compensate how crappy their keyboards sound and feel
I had a Ducky Shine 4 before getting my current keyboard. Having dissembled and reassembled it, I can tell you that ducky makes solid keyboard.
The only kind of complaint I can think of would be that the cable isn't detachable. Though that's not a huge deal and some prefer it since a detachable cable introduces another possible breaking point.
Topre is nice, but I do think that you should get a switch tester and try out various switches before dropping two hundred bucks or more on a keyboard.
I want a board with those, but it will be a pain to get one with these in Germany. Are the Matias Clickys comparable? I heard that the blues feel so nice, since they were lubed a little? Is it possible to just lube Matias clicky switches so they feel comparable?
Luckily, the Zealio group buy just started. It'll be going till Feb 27, but might end slightly sooner.
Going to order 120, but debating whether or not I'll order now or wait till the end. I know he ships by first-come-first-served, but he doesn't wait to charge you for your order, so if you order now, you pay now.
Anyway, if anyone's been itching to try them, R2 just started. Included is two new switches: The 78g and the 65g plate-mounted. Should be an interesting next few months
Best Cherry MX switch for both gaming and typing?
There is no "best for X"-switch.
It's like asking "what's the nicest looking led colour?".
It's all up to personal preference. Get a switchtester and find out which switch you prefer.
PexonPC is down for the time being (at least, it was when I last checked) because one of their team members had a serious head injury and is hospitalized.
Your best bet is to go on /r/mechmarket (reddit) and find the user 90N1NE. He sells exactly what you're looking for, I've purchased a few cables from him and they've been stellar. He also doesn't fuck up the coil like most of the other places, he uses the proper method and the result is a tight, long lasting coil.
Here's a link to his most recent buy thread, you can also order one that isn't pre-made through his order form, but I normally just use the buy-thread as it's cheaper. I have a 14" braided that cost me 13 bucks, and a 3ft braided that cost me 19 bucks. If I ordered those custom, it would have cost much more than that, since that 3ft coil is more like 18ft of cable.
Note that his most expensive are at the top, so scroll down for the cheaper cables.
Buy a switch tester and figure out for yourself.
Everyone prefers a different switch, there's no objectively correct answer to this question.
It's entirely up to preference. Generally, you don't want heavy switches for gaming because they may tire you out.
I play CS:GO with blues and HD650s just fine, and they're open headphones.
That's why I said "if your headphones dont block the sound out"
I play CS with Koss Porta Pro's and they don't block Razer greens, so I played browns for a long time, now trying out Novatouch
Zealios hands down. They just started their group buy. They're normally impossible to find, too. If you're used to using a lighter cherry tactile switch, try the 62g. Even though the Zealios are heavier, they feel lighter because of the plastic they're made with.
For example, if you're used to using MX Browns or MX Clears, (45g and 55g), you're fighting the grit of the stem as well as the spring, so you end up feeling like you're fighting more resistance. The Zealios are made of a plastic that doesn't have the sandpapery feel to it, they're buttery smooth, so the resistance isn't so noticeable.
I went from 45g Browns to 65g Zealios and I swear you can barely notice the spring weight. it's like butter.
Anyway, I know you wanted Cherry specifically, but I figured I'd throw this out there just in case you didn't care about brand. It's the same form-factor, any MX caps will work on the Zealios, and they're generally known to be a huge upgrade over Cherry switches.
If you don't want to spend the extra bucks on the premium cost of Zealios, check out Gaterons. If you buy Gateron Browns and upgrade your springs, they're practically the same thing.
Anyway, I'd highly recommend Gateron over Cherry, depending on your switch. The Gateron plastics don't have the rough sandpaper texture of the Cherry stems, so you end up with a smoother downstroke in every case.
No? Over the years I have played with probably 10-15 different headphones/headsets. Koss Porta Pro are fantastic, they're super cheap and light so you can wear them for hours on end with no discomfort. Most On-ear headphones will not block out sound from the real world, they're not supposed to do that
So I have an ISO board which is already lacking a case and has MX Shits.
Going to try making a 60% with cardboard.
MX clears would be the best choice, best tactile feedback you can get without the loud noise of the MX greens or MX blues.
MX browns are also decent, but the tactile feedback isn't as noticable and isn't too popular anymore because they "feel like dirty reds"
Don't pick any linear switch, or ill come and kill you.
MX greens and MX blues are also decent switches, with MX greens being quite a bit heavier.
I reccomend actually trying out a switch in a shop or something as you can then compare.
Or buy a switch tester.
First for productivity
Neets and gamers need not apply
ETA in March/April. I can be patient for that. You have gladdened my heart.
>I have a question for you guys:
How many of you can't type with 10 fingers?
I'm 18 and haven't ever learned it properly, because the teacher at that one course I visitedt in 6th grade was a morron. Just used the "Chopstick Method" til now.
I've started learning it through web apps and I can type mostly without errors, but still verry slow...
>not just asking your dentist for a couple of rubber elastics for free
Oh I totally forgot you are such a shut in neckbeard that you will most likely not visit a dentist or leave your basement.
Oh definitely, there really isn't any other way to get them into a PCB without soldering (unless your PCB has a sip-socket setup).
I'm not quite sure why they offered the plate-mounted switches. Even the mass-manufactured plate-mounted boards regularly use PCB switches since there's no downside to them. Plate mounted switches just lack a couple little nubs at the bottom of the switch, and they don't really interfere with anything, even in a hand-wired setup. Bit of a weird choice, but I'm sure they had their reasons.
Soldering is incredibly easy, people just make it sound more complicated than it is. You're really just heating up two pieces of metal and touching the solder to the metal. The mistake most newbies make is touching the solder to the soldering iron, rather than the metal that the iron is heating up. Once you understand that, it's absurdly easy.
I worked at my uncle's TV repairshop from 12 years old until I was 18, and was soldering on my first day in the shop. Trust me, it's easy.
>The mistake most newbies make is touching the solder to the soldering iron, rather than the metal that the iron is heating up.
As someone who's been soldering for going on 40 years now, I've always been struck that this advice is... not exactly right. Or at least, useless as far as a beginner is concerned.
I built my second(Ergodox and Compact SQ) two weeks ago and haven't even gotten all the keycaps I want for it.
Already considering a third (infinity ergodox with 75g zealios).
If you are not happy with your current one, sell it.
If you are happy and just want something else, leave these threads before it's too late.
I type with ten fingers, but I don't use the same methods as most. I often hit the 'y' key with my right-middle finger, and hit the 'b' key with my right-index finger.
I also hit the 'q' and 'z' keys with my left-ring finger, but depending on the words, I use the standard typing method.
For example, if I'm typing "Typing" or "maybe" or "key", I use my left-index for the 'y' key, but if I'm typing "yeah" or "you", I use my right-middle finger for the 'y' key.
My right-pinky does everything via the standard method, but my left-hand has less control over the board as my right. Not sure why or how I developed this habit, but it's been nearly impossible for me to break. I think it's because of the way certain words alternate between the right and left hands on the keyboard, I've made it a habit to try and alternate between hands as often as possible between letters since it feels more natural. It just feels awkward when the full word is typed with one hand, or when you need to type multiple letters in a row with the same finger.
Typing "Regret" for me is F-D-F-D-S-F, or typing "Buy" is J-K-F.
Though, I think most people develop weird little habits like this when typing. Typing by the standard method that most people teach makes it inefficient to type too many words. I've considered switching to Dvorak or Colemak because of it.
Oh, and i also only hit the spacebar with my right-thumb, which is frowned upon by most typing teachers. It realy doesn't make a big difference, though, since whenever your hands are on the keyboard, both thumbs are on the spacebar. Some of my favourite keyboards are either JP layout or 7Bit because of this habit. It gives me more keys, and allows for easy layer-switching.
Plan on getting an Infinity Ergodox too?
I need someone to talk me out of it. I don't give a shit about the LED screen, and I am not a fan of the usb 3.0 connectors.
But the NKRO and each half being independent is damn tempting.
I plan on doing both vidya and typing.
K70 RGB with Browns or Reds?
Or get a regular K70 with my favorite switch (Blues), even though I really want a RGB keyboard?
i heard that razer makes pretty epic boards /b/ro!!! they are made for gamers (but only TRUE gamers, if u play minecraft thn fuk off)
they have lime green switches which are like cherry mx blues but better; ANDD had sweet, sweet RGB lighting
>he doesn't own a colored backlight keyboard >2011
>1.25u left side alt, ctrl, win
>1u right side alt, ctrl, win
-Every custom keyset ever
Considering I have less experience than you, what would you recommend? I can say that it was the mistake that I made most frequently and was learning from my uncle.
I guess I could be more specific and say that it's best not to heat up the conductor on the PCB, for a beginner at least, but I normally heat both, then leave the iron on the second conductor while I push the solder into the conductor, rather than the iron.
Whenever I've helped some of the guys at our SoCal meetups, they tend to make the mistake I mentioned.
I guess you could also start the solder off by touching it between the iron and the metal initially, but I've seen too many people stick the solder directly to the iron and let it bead up onto the connection, which doesn't really work well for long-lasting connections.
That's only my opinion, I guess though. Like I said, I've only maybe ~6 years of hard soldering experience, and about 15 years of soldering on-and-off under my belt, it's not something I do as often as I used to, only when working on a small project or something, but not as my profession.
What would you recommend I advise the newbies at our meetups? I'd be disappointed in myself if I were feeding them misinformation.
Not yet, will before friday.
I just found a cheap set someone was reselling. With PMK upping the prices on everything they restock, I figured it best to grab it and not get screwed later.
I will probably pick up another planetary set when it goes back in stock.
I built my Compact SQ with greens (seen earlier in thread) because I like the stiff keys.
Like a week after I finish they announced the new 78g zealios.
I kinda want to try them out, but I am afraid if I do, I will end up changing every switch on my Compact SQ.
I have two custom keyboards now, four keyboards total. And only two computers.
I can't justify a fifth keyboard no matter how hard I try.
Plus I am in Japan, shipping here will suck so bad I wont be able to resell them later.
>Considering I have less experience than you, what would you recommend? I can say that it was the mistake that I made most frequently and was learning from my uncle.
It's not that it's wrong, it's that it leaves out a major important thing. You need to be able to transfer heat to the metal you're heating for soldering, and you can't do that with a dry tip or, most often, without flux. If you're using a flux core solder, you often need to place the tip on what you're heating and then hit it with some solder to deliver both the flux and some solder to wet the transfer. If you're using pen or paste flux, you place the flux first, and then position the tip, hit it with fresh solder to transfer, and once what you're heating is nice and hot *then* you apply the solder to the leads, not the tip.
So the advice isn't wrong, it's just incomplete in a way that will confuse newbies.
>yfw you realize the 8 key is aligned with the usbmini port and in a matter of minutes you can pretty much blind type any number just with your peripheral vision
Want to know how to solder properly?
That is all you need to know.
(I see people learning to solder making the mistake of trying like hell to get things hot when there's no wetting between the tip and pad/lead, and they're scared to add any solder because 'that's wrong'. You see the results here and on /diy/ all the time where people have ripped up pads and traces from trying to push harder and heat things for minutes at a time rather than using a little more flux/solder so the heat can flow)
trying to heat up leads or pads
Looks like Win95 dyesubs have been added to the easypbt GB on GH.
>It is one of those felt pads you put on furniture to keep it from damaging a wood floor.
Interesting. That to reduce ping?
>Can you spot what is wrong with that picture btw?
Only thing I notice (other than the felt pad, obviously) is that they didn't clean up their flux. However, I don't do that either and shit works fine, so I don't think that's what you meant.
No, it is to protect the wood desk :3
The plates are held together by big ass wooden bolts that would fuck it up if in direct contact.
You don't have to because rosin isn't corrosive.
SW2:11 is missing solder on one side of the diode.
Well, I bought my first keyboard, and decided to go with a meme.
What am I in for? Switching from a rubber done with flat caps.
I want a TKL rgb and preferably blue switches(company isnt that important as long as its a similar feel as a blue switch) and I have a budget of 140 dollars. Can someone please point me in the right direction. Thank you in advance
>What am I in for?
regret and crooked lines.
what zealio switch is your guys favorite? 62g, 65g, 67g, 78g?
Which one is closest to clears? Apparently they feel lighter since they're less scratchy so I don't know which one to buy.
I want something very slightly lighter than unlubed clears.
>tfw you just spent 300$ on a korean board to be in the cool kids club, and then a new meme arrives and you are back in the pleb row
>Which keyboard is the one with JUST on it?
Just Systems Board in JIS layout.
It is Topre I think.
There is a modern version made together with realforce that comes with HiPro keycaps.
Is there a big enough difference between Topre and MX Clears to justify the price difference? I do a lot of typing, but I haven't paid more than $90 for a keyboard, and I'd hate to pay $150+ for something I might not like compared to the MX Clears.
Side note: I need it to have a number pad.
>Is there a big enough difference between Topre and MX Clears to justify the price difference?
There is a big difference, but whether it is "justified" is a matter of personal perspective.
>Side note: I need it to have a number pad.
No, you want it to have a number pad.
>to justify the price difference?
only you can tell that.
to me spending 220 on a topre board was probably what to you is spending 25$ for a good burger.
is it 5 times better than a 5$ burger? maybe not, but it's sure better.
Do I risk not eating for those 220 dollars? not at all, it was like 3 days of work. Your mileage may vary, we can't help you.
It is personal preference.
Some swear by topre as if it is the second coming of jesus.
Some consider it trash.
I think that most people would actually like it. It is very similar to rubber done boards that most people have used all their life.
But you should really try it, along with all the MW switches, before you buy it.
A switch tester is okay, one connected to a computer so you can see activation points is better.
Best is a full board.
I need the numberpad for productivity, but thanks.
Interesting comparison. Thanks.
I'll keep that in mind. Massdrop has been having Topre keyboards more frequently, tempted to grab the Novatouch.
>tempted to grab the Novatouch.
Probably not a bad idea.
Some claim it isn't as comfortable as the HHKB, but that is preference.
The Novatouch has sliders that will accept Cherry MX keycaps, so you can get all those cool keycaps that cherry users post everywhere about.
>Some claim it isn't as comfortable as the HHKB, but that is preference.
feel is 10 or 15% different due to
>cherry keys having a different profile
>hhkb caps feel better than even the thickest pbt caps I ever tried
sound is VERY different, since hhkb is plastic and switches are case mounted. hhkb sound is different than realforce boards as well, for that matter.
Also it is less portable if you value that. But the pro is you get to spend money on fancy caps sets and the novatouch design is great for any set.
>can you suggest me something?
Fucking endgame right there.
>>all those different profile keys
I bet this triggers you aswell.
purple are win keys.
caps lock is actually control.
maybe you will find solace in a more accepting community like tumblr.
Apparantly the typing competition sponsored by the Japanese government uses realforce (108UH) and HHKB JP boards.
Probably because they love domesticaly produced stuff, even if something produced abroad is better. But it is still pretty cool.
It's like this sweet sex machine doesn't exist anywhere but YouTube reviews and imgur albums. What the fuck
>I want dirt cheap chinese topre.
google "cherry mx keyboard"
Alps blues are super hard to find, I got lucky with mine.
Matias does not compare to the blue alps. They feel somewhere between complicated white and simplified white alps.
I've taken them apart and they can be a pain to reassemble, if you plan on doing it, take a lot of Adderall.
But that's not to say they are bad switches. I still prefer them over any cherry.
Ortholinear is supposed to be good for your hands.
I am not a fan of the the board being that cramped though.
I'd grind it off too. Name is terrible.
If it was like a 40% it'd make sense. But a TKL called Lolita is stupid as fuck.
Well I've got way too much free time as it is and while I'm busy lubeing I can't buy stuff. Did you ever lube one of the Matias? Since they only sell them in packs of 200 it's rather expensive to try that myself.
Normally I don't like clicky switches (anymore), but after hearing the deep clack of the blue alps I fell in love again. I also heard that I should try Salmons, since I really like Matias QC. Would you recommend those as well?
Does anyone know if it's possible to replace the weird left control switch (and possibly caps) on a realforce 87 with normal ones? It looks like the only reason they're not standard switches is the LED window on the keycap itself.
Backlit pok3r. WHite case and white back lit.
Its nice so far the backlight is actually pretty nice.
going to make a dank zen station really. Next thing is case and monitor mount.
Salmon alps are also very nice. They feel much like black alps except more smooth. I personally prefer white or blue because im a fan of clicky switches.
As far as lubing matias goes, I have not done it. I only made them have more resistance when I took them apart by bending the click leafs a bit more.
They do not sounds like blue alps though, they are a bit more high pitch
here's a decent compare of them (note these are complicated whites)
Matias pretty much sounds like the kayboard on the bottom.
falling this hard for cork sniffing paying a premium for chink knock-offs over a negligable difference
Pro-tip: just get browns, clears or greens - Cherry or Gateron. After a few days when you're actually balls deep in some work you won't even think twice about the key switches.
If you want linear then just get reds. They're awesome.
If you absolutely have to wear a fedora and double monk strap shoes then get Topres, Alps or a vintage Model M.
Gold springs, stickers and expensive lube are for people that don't really need a keyboard for work in the first place.
Also, Plancks are for posers.
>I am pretty sure that was sarcasm
I never would have guessed mate
Stock HHKB is already perfection.
Alright, thank you for your help. Judging by sound I doubt I'd like the Matias Clickys.
I guess I'll have to find a nice blue/salmon alps board. It's kinda sad that all those older keyboards are so well built. I'd most likely just use them as a donor board and build a nice 60% one with the switches.
Thanks for your time, really appreciate it!
Looks like a robot doing an handstand on one hand and holding the torch in the other hand
>Stock HHKB is already perfection.
This to say the truth
Not the guy you're replying to, but recycling old keyboards ftw
hnnnng I want those caps. I only got shitty TaiHao DS for my Matias board :(
you won't find anything at thrift stores
they get weeded out and resold to computer recyclers because they're much more lucrative than the shit that actually makes it to thrift store shelves.
Of course, Anon-kun.
Duck Light Pad with clears.
Not sure if you know it, but Zealios are literally Gateron Browns with small adjustments, as I said in my other post.
I already use Gateron on nearly everything now because of the plastic, and just upgrade the springs to make them more comfortable. I can't recommend Cherry switches anymore because of how rough they are. It wasn't something that bothered me until I started using Gaterons for a review, but it's instantly noticeable now.
It's not worth paying the premium an inferior product, sure, but if we're talking about pure specs, Cherry switches use a rough plastic for a moving part, where Gateron uses a smoother plastic on all of their switches.
Also worth mentioning that this is a hobby, so you're basically going into a RC shack and saying that you should only buy a Phantom DJI because the rest are for people who don't get real work done. People who get real work done enjoy spending money on their hobby, and we're lucky to have a hobby that coincides with our work, in this case.
I think Plancks are shit too, but I'm sure some people enjoy playing around with them. I have no idea what a "Poser" would even be in this community. I'd guess a "Poser" would be the people who get pissed-off when other people prefer different switches than themselves.
I use a Filco Majestouch 2 with browns and a white PBT "ninja" keycaps.
I also have these two things; both with browns.
I can get this for £40 with Cherry MX blue
is it any good?
nope, you are convincing yourself there is more of a difference because you are invested in there actually being a difference
A good set of Gateron Clears bought at the inexpensive price that they should be are such an amazing step up from most office keyboards and are really all you need.
Anyone with "artisan" novelty keycaps shouldn't be taken seriously. They're opinions are worthless. (I have no novelty keycaps)
Yeah, its a cheap one I got from Amazon; are the usually thinner?
This is a shot of the underside of the threekeyboard. I haven't taken the nono apart yet..
Fuck man. Nice model m.
It's kinda bittersweet getting one after having spent so much time tinkering with new Cherry MX keyboards. I like loud clacky keyboards with a big switch feel, so my Model M is pretty much the end of the road for me with this whole hobby
I enjoy Gateron Clears, but they're fully linear and too light for me.
I don't have a monetary bias toward Zealios, as I don't tend to buy them, but they're my favourite recommendation for somebody who just wants the best all-around switch. I normally make my own, but I'd agree that I am probably biased toward them in other ways.
I also despise novelty keycaps, they're uncomfortable to use, they make the keyboard look grotesque, and they cost an arm for some shitty piece of plastic, but I don't think that all people who own them have invalid opinions.
I generally prefer function over everything else; standard, non RGB, non colourful keyboards, usually just the nice white/grey combo, but I don't disregard the opinion of somebody who uses anything other than that.
You seem to have the thought in your head that your opinion is absolute, and that anybody with a different opinion is some neckbeard guarding the bridge. It sounds to me like you're the type of person who goes onto PC forums and complains that nobody's using an iMac, rather than trying both and being comfortable with the fact that somebody else prefers something which you don't.
If you're saying the there's no difference from Zealios and Gateron Browns, you're wrong, if you're saying there's no difference, you're wrong, and if you're saying that X switch is perfect or that X switch is the worst, you're wrong, as you can't pass off an opinion as fact.
I used a Ducky Zero for a while, then the Shine 4 for a while and then preordered the Year of the Goat and use that now. It was the first full sized white case with RGB lighting that I thought looked good and I am a huge Chinaboo so I really liked the Yang near the arrow keys and the secondary Yang escape keycap they give you. Its super rice and I love it.
Microcentre has these for 30 bucks
I can expense out office supplies to around that much, haven't used January's budget at all, should I, or are they total trash?