Blue Alps Model M edition
>Where to Buy:
Old Thread >>52432797
Its good, the only issue is with the keycpas. So if you can, grap it barebones and buy the caps somewhere else.
The only issue wasd boards have is ping on some boards. If it happens, you only need to open the board and put something, like tape/cloth between the PCB / Plate and the case, so it fits better.
Been using pic related for about a month now and i love it. Just ordered a full set of vortex white backlit keycaps on massdrop so I'll be swapping a few keys out once the set arrives
>but the sounds from the HHKB are intoxicatingly good.
when I started thinking stuff like this,
I knew I could have bought 10 different keyboards, but I wouldn't have stopped lusting after that sexy aesthetic and sound.
So I sold all my keyboard assets and bought me an hhkb.
>How does Topre compare with blues in terms of weight?
I get less tired at the end of the day.
At the same time, topre require a bit of force right off the bat, where as blues were kinda light up until the click, so they felt kinda wobbly to me if I was just sliding my fingers across the keys.
Topre feels more solid in that regard.
I dont know much about this board. about cherry switches in general, but this board always looks nice to me with the media control buttons and steel case and a nice rest for your palms
You, when your shitty stock caps start wearing.
enjoying the fuck out of it so far. Browns are pretty good so far. DO know what the due ment by clears feel smoother.
So now that vortex has some proper molds for doubleshot backlit keycaps it's only a question of time until they redo their translucent pbt set and get the number row right.
looks nice, but idk about that font dude :/
browns are nice tho, love those shits on pic related
Reminder the one true tactile switch is Topre.
Clears are nice but ultimately they're still completely linear after the bump.
Browns are complete shit.
Not him, but wouldn't my co-workers ridicule me for bringing an ancient-looking desk fedora to work?
And goddamn, this WASD V2 with clears pings quite noticeably. And I didn't even notice any pinging with my Filco.
I dont know
I love the white realforce but the black case is just a nice thing to have
I could type on blanks it isnt a problem for me to not see wich key is what autism
>Not him, but wouldn't my co-workers ridicule me for bringing an ancient-looking desk fedora to work?
It's easier to justify a "20$" piece of junk than justify spending 200$ on a keyboard.
>I could type on blanks it isnt a problem for me to not see wich key is what autism
I DO type on blanks, and barely legible black text on dark caps would annoy me to no end, just by existing near me.
It's not a matter of needing to read.
Topre switches are nice, but I don't see how Topre discredits other switches from being tactile.
>maybe ill solder some onto mine someday
For all that I remember, the pok3r PCB accomodates for LEDs, but you'll also have to solder in resistors, lest you'll end up frying your LEDs the moment you plug in your keyboard.
>my opinion is a fact!
literally every single thread when someone asks "wot switch is gud" the answer is "IT'S COMPLETELY 100% SUBJECTIVE"
alright I guess I agree actually
black blanks would make a black realforce better
but white it is
>Enjoy overpaying for your rubber dome meme faglord
I will enjoy it thanks mayn
This is the force curve of an MX brown, red line added by me.
Notice the curve is completely linear for nearly 1mm at the start of the travel, then has a small tactile bump that is only about 5g above what it would be if it continued being linear.
Then all of the travel past the actuation point is linear.
So a brown is literally a linear switch with a tiny little bump in the middle of it. Even an MX blue has a more pronounced tactile bump.
Clears are better in that the tactile bump is large both in strength and width, but ultimately due to the way MX switches in general work, you can't have an MX switch that is anything other than purely linear after the actuation point.
>you can't have an MX switch that is anything other than purely linear after the actuation point
I'm aware of that, but I don't think that this discredits them from being tactile.
They still have a tactile bump which, unless you have some kind of novel definition for "tactile", seems like what would be the qualifier for a tactile switch.
I'll concede that Alps tactiles are good (better than cherries because they can actually be tactile all the way down due to not having an inherently shit design). Buckling spring is good too.
Not being able to not bottom out on a mechanical keyboard is just retarded.
This keyboard always cracks me up when I see it, not even sure why. I designed a layout that's similar and thought I really wanted it, at least, until I saw this board. It looks way too much like some sort of beat-pad than a keyboard.
I wish people would actually formulate arguments instead of calling others poor based on what kind of niche products they choose to spend their money on.
-posted from my HHKB
What exactly does this have to do with anything? I didn't even belittle Topre in any way, actually I'd get a Topre if there was a 55g Leopold.
I just made fun of you for actually claiming that Topre has some kind of monopoly on tactility, which is ultimately utter nonsense.
I was thinking about what kind of portable layout I would actually go for if I ever wanted such a board, and I came up with this. I've seen similar ones before (like >>52456007), but I don't like how the arrow keys just kind of meld into everything else. It's hard to say if this is just a matter of me not being used to it, or if it would actually be a usability thing. The idea I had (probably blasphemous to some) would be to mix profiles - either all SA with DSA arrows, or Cherry with G20 arrows. The latter would be more appealing from a portability perspective, as SA are pretty tall; having said that, the height difference between the sphericals would offer greater physical distinction.
The physical true fox layout is pretty much what I was thinking about, yes (though I think the gap between the rightmost modifier and arrows is awkward-looking). I was more musing about how I would differentiate the arrows from their surroundings without gaps.
>Clears are nice but ultimately they're still completely linear after the bump.
What the fuck else should they do after the tactile portion? Do you want it to vibrate or some shit?
I'm looking into purchasing my first mechanical keyboard but I'm at a total loss. I was originally eyeballing the K70 with browns, but apparently the LEDs die often. The CM Storm QuickFire TK looks nice. Any suggestions?
I'm from Canada if it helps.
Sorry for wanting a smooth feel to my keyboard. Green a shit, red a shit, blue are meh
that's the thing, forgot the name of them. Thanks, will google/read/decide on my own
I went to best buy and tried out their gamer keyboards.
I liked the red switches the most, but I feel like I shouldn't make a decision purely from 1 store display.
Reds feel like my rubber dome IBM but with literally zero resistance, it's quite nice.
Should I look into browns or clears or just get a board with red switches?
>Having a portable board is what this thought experiment is about.
Then arrows aren't necessary at all.
Just got an e-mail stating that the Infinity ErgoDox is going to launch again on MD.
Did I ever say they were necessary? I would prefer them.
>I wish Matt3o wasn't such a fucking Jew with the RGB modifiers, if it was like $10 I would have bought it but not $20.
Why do you think he sets the price?
>Do you people all take your keyboards to and from work or something?
I do, and I am a heavy vi user at work, due to working with unix servers.
I have basically zero use for f keys.
Unreliable and needs drivers and shit.
I can't afford to have my keyboard let me down in a mission critical moment.
I'm actually ordering one of these little fuckers for 3$
It's not a mechanical, But I found a Dell Quetkey which I have learned is made by NMB, the same company that produced the thinkpad keyboards.
If you're too poor for a mech, or need something quick, check your thrift stores for the Dell RT7D5JTW QuetKey.
It's the white - 55g ofcourse it is
but ergodox is just a lovely board
I am guessing the switch options will be huge on the ergodox
might even see zealios
I dont know I really want to try an ergodox
Whats a good keyboard for me:
>Lots of typing mistakes on Cherry Browns (recently got a k70 on sale for $50 off, looking to return it)
>Slow typer (<50 wpm)
>Full 100% keyboard layout.
>Preferably no rgb
>No budget limit
>Classic keyboard look (no fancy gamer stuff or macro keys)
Im looking at either the cherry greens, a membrane keyboard, or buckling spring, any other suggestions would be nice.
Cherry greens if you like the click, or clears if you dont.
Get a wasd/code fullsize board, or maybe a ducky one. There are some non-backlit ones to be released with nice thick PBT stock keycaps.
>How much have you spent on the granite drop
I have been enjoying it since Jan 7th, thanks!
>go to pexon cables
>no L-shaped connector usb mini cables
>tfw getting used to using your thumb instead of your index finger for the space bar.
>this retard again
What's your wpm anyway? I still don't understand how anyone learns to use their index for space, even 60 year old mother uses her thumb for space while hunting and pecking with her index.
I worked with a customer at work who had learned to use a mouse upside down. He had the cable pointed towards him and grabbed the mouse by the buttons. He says that because he learned that way he can;t really use it normally.
I don't even want a fancy cable.
I want a SHORT cable with usb mini and angled plug.
too bad chinese shit on ebay points RIGHT instead of left.
My WPM used to be at around 70, on 10fastfingers it's 53 right now since I keep either hitting the spacebar to early or not at all and have to go back to correct it.
There's a bunch of knacks in my typing form that need fixing, especially how I employ my right pinky.
Tai-hao had some groupbuys on massdrop, but only thin doubleshot ABS. Matias was suposed to deliver a PBT set, but he is slow as fuck.
You can get nice PBT sets on old boards tho, like the PBT ones from SGI Granite.
Get an old apple keyboard and harvest the caps. They're fairly thick and dyesubbed, though the spacebar is ABS and I'm not sure about the compatibility with modern day alps keyboard stabilizers.
>Does not ship to Italy | See details
>Worldwide See exclusions
>who even lives in a shoe
feet, I guess.
Better get your Russian caps soon before the cold war heats up.
Гдe? Cyкa ;)
not a big fan of not sculpted profiles tho
cyka amerikano fuckin amerikano cyka blat davay davay idi nachoej
I think model M is a good choice.
I have one and I also have big hands but I type a bit faster. Keys are pretty big and typing is nice.
>Pyccкий, дa ?
Are you guys buying Cyrillic keycaps because you speak Russian or just for the looks?
where can I find a shine 4 with mx clears in stock
>>д is on L
I don't think there's any correlation between Russian/English layouts.
>I'm guessing most people on GH getting in on the Cyrillic/Hangul dyesubs do not speak any related languages.
Kind of ironic because Russian speaking mechfags are mostly trying to get blank keycaps or keycaps without Cyrillic.
>I'm learning - intend to reach a point of fluency.
Are you studying it by yourself or you visit classes? I guess it's rare to find someone who'd study Russian without a reason. At least on 4chan the majority would try to learn Japanese instead.
AOTS or AOTY?
>Are you studying it by yourself or you visit classes? I guess it's rare to find someone who'd study Russian without a reason. At least on 4chan the majority would try to learn Japanese instead.
Independently and may start lessons with a local tutor that a friend of mine knows - she is from Belarus but has lived here (the UK) for quite some time now, speaks both Russian and English flawlessly.
I have always been interested in the place and intend to go to Moscow and maybe St Petersburg in either Sept/Oct/Nov/Dec, depending on certain things.
I thrifted a nice mechy for a dollar the other day, but it connects thru MIDI
can I just get a midi>usb converter and use that?
it's standard 5 prong midi, I can plug it into my music gear
>if you don't know shit about any of the historical figures?
yes, although you really should.
Greek and Roman history is some of the best culture the western world has to offer.
You should study it before it gets deleted by sandniggers.
I made a mockup of Pok3r Elvish Granite in a wooden case.
Not sure if I should get the caps...
>live in Portugal
>want to get a mechanical keyboard
>there's literally nothing with MX Blue Switches and the PT layout
this is living hell
'+c gives ç
brhue here, didnt take more than two weeks geting used to ansi.
Or, if you like your layout that much, just buy any ISO board and use blanks. The layout shouldnt be different.
Or get an ozone strike pro and replace the switches.
Why doesn't anyone ever talk about those Star Trek keycaps anymore?
pic related is sold out every fucking where
Anyone ever used one of these keyboards?
How are they like?
One-inch keys sound uncomfortable to type on.
>Using a Lolita keyboard at a lan party
>Someone's little sister starts asking a bunch of questions
>Everyone is looking at me weird
Has this happened to anyone else?
Aren't rhythm games the games that get the most out of mechanical keyboards?
The ones that put them to test?
>without the click clack sound?
You still get the clack sound which is the sound of the keys bottoming out and striking the upper plate of your keyboard. Instead of the clicking, you get another sound, but this other sound is barely audible.
I don't have a mechanical keyboard but this is what I use. I got it at a salvation army for $1. I cleaned it up really well and personally love it.
Pretty much every computer in my high school had those.
They were great to type on.
I picked up one of those from my school's dump.
Couldn't get it working using a PS2/USB adapter, didn't work with my old PC either. The numlock seems to be working, but I can't type anything at all.
For now, it's sitting in the closet. Currently using my HP multimedia keyboard. Great keyboard with a nice click to it.
Look up the "Smart 68" keyboard, it's the exact layout you've posted, and it's completely programmable. I'm not a fan, but only due to the price. There are plenty of other boards like that. Here's the project images from the Smart 68: http://imgur.com/a/b5G48
The WhiteFox is exactly what you want, but it's a pain to get ahold of, and I know I'm not selling mine. There will probably be more group buys soon, it's a great board and probably my favorite.
If you're adamant about using separate key profiles on a board without a discrete arrow cluster, you could use DCS or SA on all of your keys, but use a different row for the arrow cluster. For example, use all R1 for the arrow cluster, but have the bottom portion flipped, so they cup your fingers. This way you can at least use the same profile for all of your keys, but you'll have an arrow cluster that's easily identifiable without looking at the board.
There's actually a great poll on MD that has the keyboards you'd want. Here's the link:
hows the durability of gaterons? i had a really shitty experience with the switches in a 2014 Blackwidow (they stopped working after like 3 months) and I've been skeptical of the durability of any non cherry switch.
my spraypaint job was really shit since it was windy outside today, so I sanded down the case. I kind of like the sanded down look of the case now, give opinions.
also the keys are fucking disgusting because this has been sitting in my closet for over a year.
I'm a fucking pleb so I'm only looking for consumer grade shit.
I'm really mirin' the K70 RGB from Corsair, it only comes with browns and reds though.
Reds are utter shit imo, browns afaik are similar-ish to blues. Perhaps less clicky and tactile, but still on the same boat.
i have a keyboard with gateron browns and i prefer it over normal browns. the keys presses feel smoother like browns that have been lubed up or something. no way to tell if they will last as long as cherry mx switches though since they only recently came out
>if I ever wanted such a board
I don't actually want a portable board (right now, anyway).
>I've seen similar ones before
I know different plus-60% boards exist, even ones that would fit my layout exactly.
>If you're adamant about using separate key profiles on a board without a discrete arrow cluster
The idea is to not waste space by distancing the arrows from the rest of the keys, but beyond that I'm not adamant about anything.
>use a different row for the arrow cluster
This is an interesting idea, though. Worth considering.
So, I got to try out some topre switches firsthand today. Compared them directly to my MX greens.
I know it's subjective, but I actually wouldn't mind topre switches if they had ones that offered the same amount of pressure as my greens. I've gotten used to the force required to acctuate MX greens and by comparison the topre switches feel too loose and soft to me, and remind me of rubber domes too much. They feel cheap and comparable to most gamer keyboards.
Does such a thing exist or is this only a fantasy? Again, I'm looking for topre switches with the same acctuation pressure as MX greens (around 70g if I'm not mistaken).
>it's one of the best budget keyboard brands
>want to get a WASD keyboard because of the layout options
>customs would rape me hard
hold me, /mkg/
Can someone talk me out of buying this? Are Topre's really just a meme? I want a keyboard that is as tactile as possible without being as loud as my blues.
Browns aren't tactile enough for me.
how can I be contrarian when I have both a brown board and a clear board
after using both it's obvious clears are the superior choice
browns are simply babby's first switch with minimal tactility and shitty feeling of pushing down on a switch with shit obstructing it
>Blue Alps Model M edition
What? Did they actually make them like that? Is it some sort of a mod? Is it some sort of a bootleg?
The silver badge seems off, because on my bucklng spring one it is flat with the plastic.
It's cheap, has plate mounted switches, braided cable, solid build, not sure if they've started to use PBT keycaps or if they still use abs since I have an old one but if I had one complain that would be the only thing.
I mean are they actually tactile? Are they a meme switch? People who have them seem to love them? Are they tricking themselves out of buyers remorse?
I am really considering buying this topre-shit and it'd be cool if someone who's actually used topres could give me an honest opinion.
>I mean are they actually tactile?
>Are they a meme switch?
This doesn't mean anything.
>People who have them seem to love them?
Generally, yes. Though this is mostly a matter of the most devoted being the most vocal.
>Are they tricking themselves out of buyers remorse?
It's quite the stretch to think most people who buy a thing only say they like it because they paid money for it. Do you think they all secretly hate it?
Who knows, I don't have interest in buying/using one, so feel free to ignore me if you wish.
Just remember that it's an investment and for all you know topre users could be shilling out of buyers remorse or in bid to feel superior to every other 'non-topre peasant'
First I bought one of those noppoo topre clones. Didnt like it.
Then I thought they sucked because they were clone. Bought a novatouch and still didnt like it. They felt pretty much the same, but with different bottom out sound. Maybe 55g topre is better tho, I couldnt try them yet.
On a blind test I probably couldnt discern a 45g and a regular rubberdome if not for the fact that most rubberdomes have scratchier sliders, while topres are more smooth.
Linear = like pressing a spring directly, a doorbell button for example.
Tactile = with a little bump on the middle of the way. Think of a retractable pen button, you press it, then there is a little bump, then if falls.
Clicky = like the tactile one, but with clack (or tik) sound when you go through the bump
depends on whether the laptop keys are sufficiently recessed, how wide the laptop keyboard is compared to the mech board and the positioning of the mech board's feet (if available)
I am thinking of getting a CODE keyboard as my first mech but I am getting quite concerned about the quality of the keycaps. Should I get it.? Are there any decent backlit keycap sets? This is going to be my first mech keyboard so I want to get something that is good.
That's only decent backlit keycap set that I know. The legends look like dogshit though, and the wrong legends are lit.
Keycap aside, it's a solid keyboard if you're into clears.