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building a 1k-1.5k$ gayming pc with /wsr/

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Thread replies: 53
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hey there /wsr/ i was about to purchase a rebuilt gayming pc but you guys have convinced me not to, so I so far have 1k-1.5k to spend more or less.
I would build it from scratch (case, cpu, power supply, card, everything)
I want it for gayming
more or less I was thinking in
>Intel i7-7700k
>NVIDIA GTX 1070 8GB msi armor
>closed loop liquid cooling (no idea wich)
>case (no idea wich)
>power supply (no idea wich)
>16 G RAM no idea (no udea wich)
this is more or less what i have in mind
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jN8fkT
pls respond
>>
>>330039
You don't need the i7 or the watercoolong for just a 1070.
>>
>>330065
could you explain why i dont need it?
maybe i could keep it so in a future it will become relevant?
>>
the graphics card you listed appears to be out of stock on that store, not sure if that is a problem
here is a list for the remaining of the most important parts for the build (of only readily available parts in the store, should be an easy plug-and-play setup):
motherboard
>https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=MB-Z27GAPS
power supply
>https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=PS-SS750KM
memory (x2 for dual channel 16gb, each stick is 8gb)
>https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CT424B8G_G
closed loop cpu water cooling
https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=FAN-MLXD24
>storage (ssd for os and games + hdd for data storage)
https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=INT600P512
https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=DT01ACA300
as for the case, pick one that you like, as long as it fits a typical atx motherboard (the one listed above) and the closed loop (having some additional fans and decent cable routes would also help a bit). something like
>https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CA-3361AB
this is all based on the cpu you already chose (some parts based on my personal brand preference, eg. psu). you can probably find cheaper alternatives for some parts listed above, but quality will decrease
ill let other anons chime in on this, maybe someone convinces you to get a rizen build instead (i would :) , and i would also ditch the watercool loop but thats just me). do ask about anything you have doubts on
gl
>>
>>330066
That would be a very stupid idea: you'd be throwing away a 1070 (which is expensive), and in the meantime other, newer, better CPUs will have rendered your one irrelevant.

You have to think of money spent on a PC as flushed down the toilet, because it is. Once you think your PC is old and needs an upgrade, so will everyone else with the same parts, so no-one's gonna buy them off you for anything close to what you paid new.
>>
>>330039
Just pick one from PCPartpicker, and get all the bits on the part list.

https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/#sort=a1&X=0,159881&g=169,168,191,135
>>
>>330066
the reasoning is that just for games that cpu is overkill and the graphic card will probably bottleneck on the most demanding games before the cpu will. its still an alright cpu, i would have gone with the lower one in the 7th series though 7600k, i bet in most games you wont notice any difference between the two
>>330087
looks like i screwed up some of those meme arrows, hope you get the gist of it
>>
>>330087
>Z270
>Hard disk
>SSD
FFS, no. This configuration supports Optane, get a hard disk and an Optane card and never have to worry about running out of space of putting whatever on what drive.
>>
>>330099
>optane
yeah but that only works after the first data fetch (cached) which windows superfetch should be able to do the same. pci express 3 m.2 ssd are very fast, not limited by sata limitations, and 512gb is not that easy to fill up, unless you put everything in it. setting the browser default download folder onto the hdd should probably solve 90% of the data storage sorting :)
>>
>>330106
>>330099
oops forgot link somewhat related
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO_fh450u6Y&t=340
and how write times will suffer if you just use optane and hdd
>>
>>330106
>yeah but that only works after the first data fetch (cached) which windows superfetch should be able to do the same.
You realise it's non-volatile, so it's the first fetch *ever*, not the first fetch this boot? An Optane is an SSD, except with much faster read latency.
>512gb is not that easy to fill up
3TB is even harder
>setting the browser default download folder onto the hdd should probably solve 90% of the data storage sorting :)
Why not save $100, get better performance, and solve 100% of the data storage sorting?
>>
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>>330109
So what he's saying is "don't deliberately and intentionally erase a cache SSD if you don't want to see one single slow boot"?
>>
>>330110
>You realise it's non-volatile
yes but you cant fit the whole 3tb in it, for it to cache something else something has to be discarded, and you get the uncached effect (no speed benefit) on both thing, the one you are trying to load and the one discarded the next time you load it. windows + cycling thought gta 5 and a couple of other games like rust or battlegrounds should be enough to trigger this effect
>Why not save $100, get better performance, and solve 100% of the data storage sorting?
optane is slower than an ssd on all cases, due to caching tests, it wasnt designed for gaming or high performance builds, but to accelerate intermediate builds.
and, yes, for $100 more i would rather have an extra 512gb faster drive that i can actually put stuff on, but i guess thats just me
>>
>>330119
It can fit 64GB in, which is your entire OS and several games.

As the video you posted demonstrates.

How can it do this if a single game is an 80GB download? Simple: more than 90% of the game is not needed most of the time: it's cutscenes, end credits, content that's designed to be streamed not loaded, etc. etc.

This stuff is just wasting your precious SSD space by being on it; surely it makes more sense to put the bits of the game that need an SSD on an SSD, and the bits that don't on a hard disk.

If only there were a way to do that!
>>
>>330114
it will erase something every once in a while (unless you never install and run anything new for a good amount of time), maybe not the windows boot caching if they got that right on the software side, but the rest will according to usage, that ssd 32gb limit is easy to hit, that is half the ram in the build above
but op is free to chose whatever he like most, i would get a separate m.2 ssd without optane and install windows and games on it, leaving movies, photos, music, documents on the hdd for storage and ease of system format
>>
>>330089
wich one should i get then?
>>
>>330125
You mean "64GB limit".

The 32GB one is $150 cheaper.

But yeah, read up on LRU caching: it keeps the stuff you are using (like your OS and the bits of the games you're currently playing that the games are actually using), and throws out the stuff you're not.

And it's all automatic so you don't have to go "well shit my SSD is full again, I guess I'll reinstall GTA on my hard disk".
>>
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>>330087
thanks a lot for the help anon as i dont clearly know all the part of a pc myself (first build ever)
this is how it looks now
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HxVYKZ
still
>case no idea
>power supply: i need one that could switch to 220 V since i dont like to use 110V (maybe yours could go for 220 no idea)
so far ill hit the 1300$ mark more or less im very happy and ill order mostly for whatever page is available
>>
>>330125
>ease of system format
Why do people keep saying this? Why would you ever need to format a disk: installing Windows clean just moves all your stuff into \Windows.old and you don't need to format anything or worry about losing any data in the first place.

Actually, I think I worked it out: if you shove your Windows onto a tiny drive, you can end up with a disk that's got a fucked Windows and is completely full, leaving you no option but to fix it or format. An obvious solution presents itself.
>>
>>330123
>90% of the game is not needed most of the time
i dont think any of the games i listed even has prerecorded cutscenes, and could you say where are you pulling that 90% of? if that where true we wouldnt need >8gb ram for demanding games
>If only there were a way to do that!
there is, you install the os and the games on an ssd :^)
>>330126
sdd is faster, has more space available, requires no additional software/configuration. optane has less available space but you will never see it, but has the added bonus of caching some of the stuff you use the most, as long as you dont use too much stuff
>>330127
>You mean "64GB limit"
where can i buy that?
>The 32GB one is $150 cheaper.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167427
uh?

im gonna drop the this particular subject now, op should be able to figure it out, whatever route he takes (optane or not)
>>
>>330128
>110V
the one on the list above has on the specs a 110 to 240v range so you should be good (most modern/decent switching supplies do, i believe any with active pfc should be able to "adjust itself" to any input voltage but i digress). you can pick another if you like, just make sure it has the power connectors for the graphic card and a decent amperage on the 12v rail
dont forget the motherboard, (its like the systems skeleton, everything plugs into it). or do you already have one?
note that all the parts i listed can be changed, as long as the connection types reaming the same, maybe some other anons can chime in and suggest alternatives (inb4 more optane)
>>330130
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb07IYAZG08 :^)
>>
>>330132
>where do you get this figure from
You worked it out yourself: if you need 16GB, and the game's 80GB, then *at most* 16/80=20% of the game can be used at once. The actual amount's going to be even less, because the game needs some RAM to actually do stuff in.

>requires no additional software/configuration
You provide the additional configuration every day, whenever you decide "do I put this on the SSD or not".
>>
>>330137
>The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6Gb/s port is disabled.
what is that anon???
and also all the power supplies dont have a switch so i guess they can connect directly to 220?
>>
>>30143
>You provide the additional configuration every day, whenever you decide "do I put this on the SSD or not".
so you never change content from one directory to another on your machine? do you happen to have one giant download folder with all the games, all the music, all the movies and all photos in it with no subfolder organization?
if i ever had to think about "putting this on ssd" for any other reason than "i want this to load instantly every single time i used it" i would just make a couple of directory junctions on the ssd to point to the hdd and be done with it

>>330146
it means if you populate the m.2 slot with something in it, one of the sata ports on the motherboard wont work. probably a pci-express limitation of the chipset (shared lanes across sata and other controllers), nothing to worry about unless you want to populate all the sata ports, all 6 of them, with drives and still have the ssd in the m.2 slot
>all the power supplies dont have a switch
thats right, its not needed, modern psus are built in such a way that as long as the voltage input has a minimum (probably lower than 110v) it can work and self "regulate itself" without the need to flip a physical switch. those switch used to be an easy way of killing a psu (and sometimes the motherboard too). that means it will work on either 110v, 220v, 230v and 240v, be it 50 or 60hz, any combination will work fine, at least on the one linked above, if you choose another one look for those that have "active power factor correction" as a feature

i need some sleep
gl
>>
>>330191
>populate the m.2 slot with something in it
i have no idea about that at all, literally 0 idea what all that means, should i get other motherboard?
also could i drop the SSD and buy it in a couple of months? pc is getting a little bit pricey
if i do drop the SSD for later when i buy it do i have to factory reset or something?
>>
>>330191
...and then it gets full and you have to choose which shit doesn't really need to load "instantly" after all.

>>330205
OP, absolutely do not do this. Migrating the OS from a large device to a smaller device is the very fiddliest way of migrating, and you will fuck it up and lose your data. I'm not saying it's not possible, just that if you're asking questions like that, you're going to fuck it up.

Either get the SSD at the start, or don't get it at all and add an Optane card later.
>>
>>330191
>look for those that have "active power factor correction" as a feature
That's nothing to do with "no switch".

"power factor correction" is something the regulators demand PSUs have: it makes their load more resistive and less inductive, which is better for the power companies. One single PC with PFC won't make a lick of difference, but every PC in the country having PFC makes the grid's job a lot easier.

The best PFC for your PSU to have is no PFC whatsoever: you get no benefit from it, and you're paying to run it, but active PFC is more efficient than passive PFC.

To see if your PSU can take 220V, read the specifications and see what it says about input voltages. To see if there's a switch, look at the manual and product shots, and see if there's a switch.
>>
>>330205
>i have no idea about that at all, literally 0 idea what all that means
then ignore it, its no problem really
>should i get other motherboard?
based on that alone no, its probably a chipset limitation so all models will have this limitation (or plainly state only having 5 sata ports instead of 6)
see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Data_connector and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M.2#Form_factors_and_keying for some picture of the connectors being discussed
>if i do drop the SSD for later when i buy it do i have to factory reset or something?
you would either have to move the windows installation to the ssd to benefit from bootup speeds or reinstall windows on the ssd

>>330279
>it gets full
i mentioned directory junctions, so the 3tb hdd, or the 512gb ssd?
>>330282
>PFC for your PSU to have is no PFC whatsoever
uh? no pfc on a switching psu? yeah, that would be fun... why not go the full way of the dodo and just use a large transformer and a bridge rectifier with some capacitors? you would have a power factor of 1, current and voltage ridding alongside, which is the best! cmon now...
what i meant was that the circuitry responsible for apfc should be able to seamlessly handle mains input voltage differences, thus no physical switch needed

>>330279
>To see if your PSU can take 220V, read the specifications and see what it says about input voltages.
>>330282
>Either get the SSD at the start, or don't get it at all
i do agree on both of these if op wants to save some money at the start it would be wise to drop the water cooling, get an 7600k instead and maybe a lower end model ssd (optane or not, although with optane op wont get the initial windows bootup speed boots until the optane drivers are loaded close to login screen. and right now 512gb is the price sweet-spot for ssds)
>>
>>330309
Do you even know what PFC does? Name even one possible disadvantage you, the end-user, would see with a power factor of 0.5 .

Protip: electricity meters read watts, not volt-amps.

Before answering, bear in mind that OP is using 220V, which can supply 3,000VA.

>>330309
>with optane op wont get the initial windows bootup speed boots until the optane drivers are loaded close to login screen
You're just wrong about that. Intel RST has been in the BIOS since Ivy Bridge. It has to be, because the cache is write-back, so if the BIOS didn't support it, the disk would have inconsistent data on it.
>>
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>>330279
>>330309
okey so ill get the SSD
and about the closed loop meme cooler i live in FL and heres hot as fuck, literally waves of heat outside in the streets, and there is also a lot of humidity, so i have no idea if i would benefit from the meme liquid cooler
>>
>>330340
Humidity actually helps PC cooling, because humid air has a higher thermal mass than dry air.

It hinders humans, because humidity interferes with evaporation of sweat. Plus air with a higher thermal mass that's hotter than the thing you're trying to cool will just heat it more efficiently.

But PCs are hotter than the air and don't sweat, so humid air helps them cool themselves.
>>
>>330324
>Intel RST has been in the BIOS since Ivy Bridge
so it will seamlessly switch cold boot from the ssd without the optane drivers, is that what you are saying? i find that very hard to believe, that would mean no user space drivers would be needed, not to mention that on all tests ive seen the boot time stay the same as with a normal hdd setup up to until login screen. im talking about boot times, not times to reach desktop, after login screen it will be faster ofc
>Do you even know what PFC does?
>VA
i have no idea what you are trying to go on about. power factor is a 0 to 1 measure indicating how much the current lags the voltage (sines)
>Name even one possible disadvantage
with lower power factors you might need a "juicier" supply and "juicier" cabling. as a home gamer sure it wont matter much to you, as long as you dont have a whole bunch of devices with a terrible power factor plugged in, or it will trip the main supply breaker before its rating amperage. power companies wont charge you for it, but on some weird setups (like museum with lots of led lamps) you might need to call the electric company to increase your building power limit, which will increase the final price. and not to mention that devices with no apfc (pf closer to 1) are generally way less power efficient, hence my compassion with a simple transformer.
what any of this has to do with op i have no idea...

>>330340
you will have higher temperatures without the water loop, but unless you are not overclocking its nothing to worry about, the graphic card will probably produce more heat that the cpu itself
>>
>>330349
>so it will seamlessly switch cold boot from the ssd without the optane drivers, is that what you are saying?
Of course it does. If it didn't, the data on the drive would be inconsistent on boot without flushing the cache, and the first time your PC crashed it would scribble both drives.

The way it works (and has done since 2012) is that the BIOS understands RST and uses it to load the bootloader, which then calls through the BIOS (which understands RST) to load the OS kernel and boot-time drivers. The kernel then pivots into protected mode, which loads the boot-time drivers, including the Intel Rapid Storage hard disk controller driver, which also understands RST.

There's no time RST isn't used (which is good, because if there were it would appear that the HDD was corrupted because there'd be no way to read sectors that are only in the cache), so there's no time the cache isn't used.

Intel RST operates at the block level; the only user-mode anything is the control panel.

All the software RAID cards work the same way: if the driver weren't in the BIOS too, there'd be no way for the computer to boot.
>i find that very hard to believe, that would mean no user space drivers would be needed
Maybe google it instead of guessing? This isn't a hypothetical you can speculate about, it's a matter of fact that can be proven one way or the other.
>>
>>330349
>i have no idea what you are trying to go on about. power factor is a 0 to 1 measure indicating how much the current lags the voltage (sines)
If you don't know the difference between a Watt and a Volt-Amp, you probably shouldn't be talking about power factor at all.

You get billed for real power not apparent power, so the difference as far as you're concerned between a power factor of 0.5 and a power factor of 1.0 is absolutely nothing, so long as you don't overload your wiring.

A 500W PSU with a power factor of 0.5 will draw at full load an apparent power of 1000VA, and a real power of 500W. A 110V outlet can provide 1300VA, so there's absolutely no difference between this pathological power factor and a perfect resistive one. 220V spurs (3000VA) and rings (6000VA) are even (to use your scientific terminology) "juicier", making a shitty power factor even more of a non-problem.

But this is all tangential: power factor correction gives you no benefit, and only benefits the power companies, yet you're the one paying to run it. When you're spending even one watt running power factor correction, that's a watt you're giving to the power company.
>>
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also about the case ive watching the builds that people have been posting and i dont see the cd slot????
are cds slot outdated? how do you install windows without the cd?
>pic related
>>
>>330362
Get it on a USB.
>>
>>330371
does the official windows comes with a usb? or is it only cd?
>>
>>330379
As far as I can tell, the one you're buying doesn't come on an anything.

Just get a 4GB or more USB, and google "Windows 10 Media Creation Tool".
>>
>>330362
>i dont see the cd slot
some cases, have it hidden behind the front panel door, the whole, or part of the front panel of the case open up like a door to reveal the optical drive bays
>cds slot outdated
they kinda are, people just resort to using a usb stick to save stuff or even to install an operative system
>>330379
the one on the parts list in the op has
>(DVD)
on its title so thats probably it.
good call on that one, do you have a sata dvd drive to use to install it? alternatively you can do what >>330384 said and get a usb stick, download the official iso image from microsoft, "burn it" to the usb stick and install via that using the cdkey supplied on the dvd. although using the dvd is much simpler and easier. if you dont have a dvd drive you can add one to the parts list for 20 or $25, any will do (i wouldnt even bother with cherrypicking one, they are mostly all the same now that its "outdated tech")
>>
>>330357
>If you don't know the difference between a Watt and a Volt-Amp, you probably shouldn't be talking about power factor at all.
va is a "byproduct" of the powerfactor, apparent power
>(snip)
so two of those power supplies you mention would be enough to trip a breaker, even if they dont exceed the breakers rating, how is that any different from what ive said? i still dont know what you are rambling on about not to mention why you are doing it...
>>
>>330426
No they wouldn't.

Here's an explanation of power factor even you should be able to understand: http://www.dansdata.com/gz028.htm

If you don't have substandard wiring, PFC wastes power providing you no benefit. If you use AC, you then have to pay again to remove the heat PFC generates providing you no benefit. The same PSU without any PFC will be more, not less efficient, because PFC is not necessary for the PSU to function, and unnecessary components waste energy.

There is only one reason to use PFC in a domestic PC, and that is that your government has made it illegal not to.

It provides no benefit to you.

To you, it provides no benefit. Your power supply is made less efficient by having it.Having it makes your power supply less efficient. You pay for real power, not apparent power. You don't pay for apparent power, you pay for real power. PFC doesn't benefit you, only the power company. The power company benefits from PFC, you don't. PFC wastes real power which you then pay for. You pay for real power to be wasted by PFC.
>>
>>330422
>get a usb stick, download the official iso image from microsoft, "burn it" to the usb stick and install via that using the cdkey supplied on the dvd. although using the dvd is much simpler and easier.
The wizard does it all for you, all you do is press "next". It doesn't sound like you've done this before.

>if you dont have a dvd drive you can add one to the parts list for 20 or $25, any will do
Buying a $25 peripheral is "much simpler and easier"?
>>
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>>330371
>>330384
>>330422
>>330443
got it more or less intead of cd you just do it with the usb and type the key i bought a win10 key from g2a long ago for 10$ no idea if it works like that

also do you guys can recommend me a gaymin case with the cd slot? i listen to a lot of music via cd music
>>
>>330456
The $10 ones are preowned OEM keys and aren't actually legal*. They're a convenient way of pirating it, but to be legal you need to buy either a new OEM key, or a new or preowned Retail key.

Seeing as you're pirating it anyway, you might as well pirate Windows 7 with a loader then use the Windows 10 media creation tool to do an upgrade (which still works now), and get a pirated license for free that way.

* they're not transferable from the computer they're first used on, so you're actually paying $10 for the right to use Windows on the seller's PC.
>>
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okey anons so far is looking like this
is there anything am i missing do i need more fans?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Rjj2wV#incompatibilities
also site is saying
>The motherboard M.2 slot #0 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6Gb/s port is disabled.
>The motherboard M.2 slot #1 shares bandwidth with SATA 6.0 Gb/s ports. When the M.2 slot is populated, two SATA 6Gb/s ports are disabled.
and also is the air fluid good like in pic related or will need more fans?
>>
>>330607
>380W
>750W, $110 PSU
さすが
>>
>>330651
???? should i get less
>>
>>330651
its fine, besides having enough headroom for upgrades, the psu wont run near its full rating all the times, and 50% to 70% is normally the sweet spot on efficiency for 80+ psus.
>>330776
but yeah, you can get, say, a 650w model if you want to save another 20 or so bucks. still your most recent build has a motherboard with a $50 price increase just to have some colorful lights, so im not entirely sure on what kind of build you want anymore (are you ok with going the full $1.5k?)

>>330607
you can disregard those "errors", unless you are planing on using plenty of sata drives, enough to need all of those sata ports (so 4 or more)

>>330443
>The wizard does it all for you, all you do is press "next".
uh? where have i said it didnt?
>Buying a $25 peripheral is "much simpler and easier"?
if op also has to buy a usb flash drive then yes, you dont need to "record" anything with a ready made dvd, plug&play

>>330442
you clearly have no idea what you are talking about... but worry not, im gonna drop this talk from here on out, so you win!
>>
>>330889
>where have i said it didnt
When you were twatting on about ISOs.

>>330889
>you clearly have no idea what you are talking about
Yet you seem to be having incredible difficulty identifying where I'm wrong and correcting me.

In my experience, people who bang on about how easily they could prove you wrong if only they wanted to, but right now they don't but they totally could, it's just that now's not a good time... tend to be full to the eyeballs with shit.
>>
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why is everyone fighting????!!??
>>
>>330889
so more or less build is almost done, if the sata thing is not a problem were good to go.
only think left is the case wich i have no idea, i have one in my build but looks kind simple.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/L8tnBP
>>
>>330940
Why do you have a wanky gaming motherboard and a $40 case without a window?

You could save over $100 by using a cheaper motherboard and PSU, and with that case you wouldn't even be able to tell you had.

Or you could spend that $100 upgrading to a 1080.
>>
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>>330951
can i get the same motherboard withouts leds and cheaper? i kinda liked it desu
and the case i have no idea, the one i choose looks like its from the 2010
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