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Arcade cab help (CPS2/3)

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Thread replies: 29
Thread images: 6

File: arccapcomcps2.jpg (89KB, 496x344px) Image search: [Google]
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What is the best option if i want a to make my own cab? Fighting games are my priority so i want the most accurate experience but my problem is that i am mostly interested in CPS2/3 games and both of those board are pretty annoying with the suicide and need some annoying modifications. So what are my best options?

Get a Neo Geo MVS and CPS1 and forget about Vampire Savior and 3rd Strike, PC Mame cab or one of those multigame jamma?
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>>3764281

Fucking hell man structure your posts better.

This is probably the easiest way, as much as I hate Metal Jesus Rocks...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpUaw4cooc8

Otherwise, you need to get get a jamma harness and rig it up to a powersupply and an arcade monitor. It's way easier to just buy a Cabinet thats pre-wired so you don't electrocute yourself when dealing with the CRT.

If you want just Neo-Geo you need 4 buttons, if you want CPS2 you'll need the 3 extra kick buttons.

I prefer to lay out my buttons two rows, 3 on top, and 4 on the bottom. That way you have "standard" Neo-Geo layout, as well as standard CPS2 layout with the 2 rows of 3.

You'll need to get 2 kick harnesses for the extra kick buttons and wire them up on top of the standard jamma harness.

That's basically it.

You don't need to worry about suicide batteries at all. It's a fucking 10 minute job that just requires an extra torx bit. Replace the batteries once you get them, or just let them die and pay someone to phoenix them and never worry about it again.

>Vampire Savior
Enjoy your crippling debt.
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>third strike
>vampire savior
Go back to /v/.
>>
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>What is the best option if i want a to make my >own cab?
Don't make your own cab. Get a cheap beat up japanese plastic cab on ebay and refurbish that fucker. Get a new monitor for it.

> interested in CPS2/3 games and both of those >board are pretty annoying with the suicide
Cps2 is easy to keep alive. You buy a TADIRAN battery every FIVE years to keep them alive. Tadiran because they are the most reliable. And five years because modern batteries are manufactured without lead and cadmium so they wont last as long as the original 90's maxell batteries.

CPS3 is a bitch to maintain. Battery swapping is complicated and annoying. Best option would be to buy a hacked multicart from the darksoft dude. Google darksoft & CPS3.

>Get a Neo Geo MVS
Please do. Its probably the most carefree and fun jamma system ever. The mvs multi game carts seem to be pretty cool too. Aliexpress is your friend.

>and CPS1
Later cps1 games have a suicide battery as well. And they are fucking expensive.

>PC Mame cab
There was a mame distribution able to output the original resolution for tri sync arcade monitors. Forgot what its called. Groovy mame, maybe.

> those multigame jamma
those multigame jamma boards are total rubbish. Its emulation too. Wrong resolutions and lots of glitches, slowdown, which results in many games being totally unplayable. Stay away from these.
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>>3764291
Sorry i just noticed i wrote the OP like a gorilla.

I actually know how to build one and the differents bottom layout , i was triying to ask about the boards themselves.

>or just let them die and pay someone to phoenix them and never worry about it again.
That is something i can't do in my country
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>>3764321
dont phoenix the boards, they will lose their value, as many collectors consider phoenixed boards half-bootlegs. And if you really have to, get a rom burner and flash your own phoenix roms. The images can be downloaded from cps2 shock.
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>>3764320
Thanks i thought both CPS2 and 3 were a bitch to maintain.

>Later cps1 games have a suicide battery as well. And they are fucking expensive.
Well at least most Street Fighters 2 are pretty cheap.
>>
>>3764281
Monitor is what you deal with first. You need the CRT monitor of some sort, whether arcade monitor (new tube from Wei-Ya or whatever, or else an old one) or any sort of low-frequency (15.7 KHz aka 240p/480i monitor) with RGB input. Even a PVM like the CRT thread people.

Then you need something to put it in. Maybe you get both at once, the monitor and cabinet, in one of those container shipments they do on the forums wherever. Japanese candy cab? Or building your own?

Hooking boards into it is easy at that point. Hooking a Windows 7 / Windows XP system with an ATI Radeon HD series (4000 tops) card and CRT_emudriver custom drivers to push the signals is easy too. Has the same lag with 1000 MHz USB controls as a CPS2 board running SSF2Turbo board, measured with high-framerate photography. GroovyMAME outputs exact resolutions / sync through the RGB to the monitor based on whatever game or system you boot. Easy. Otherwise boards.
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File: 108.jpg (23KB, 640x640px) Image search: [Google]
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keystone battery holder. You replace that holder with the original axial battery. So you wont have to solder a new battery in every five years.
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File: 108C.jpg (18KB, 640x640px) Image search: [Google]
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keystone 108c, snaps on top of the holder to keep the cps2 battery firmly in place.
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>>3764375
Yeah but you still need 1/2 AA's right?
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>>3764394
1/2 AA, the more mAh the longer they will live
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>>3764328

Actually, Phoenixing as the only option may be a thing of the past. A group of people have discovered how to actually revive the board to original spec, no hacked ROM sets needed:

http://arcadehacker.blogspot.com/

I've not done it myself and it looks a bit complicated from briefly glancing at it (maybe more like a plan B than something to count on instead of regular battery replacement.... which should be a kick in my ass to replace some batteries since the 5 year mark on some of mine expired late last year), but it is comforting to know that if your battery dies, you do have a good option.
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>>3764375

Don't do this as the leads on these corrode over time making the ram that is battery powered fail. Additionally the battery can fall out. Just look up the stories of people who do this.
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>>3764320
>cheap beat up japanese plastic cab on ebay

???
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>>3764798
>Additionally the battery can fall out.
That's what the 108c clip is for?

> as the leads on these corrode over time
Thanks for the reminder. Will have an eye on possible corrosion with these.
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>>3764798
Seriously dude i only got about 7 or 8 cps2 boards and i am already freaking paranoid i might lose them. There is this horror thread about old maxell's:

https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/17086-warning-exploding-maxell-pram-batteries/
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>>3764798
>>3764903
Nigga just replace that shit with NVRAM or whatever like they do to make pinball machines have no suicide-prone battery
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>>3764903

Just replace the batteries. If you're running them on their OG batteries, they're well overdue for a swap. Just be quick about it since you have a limited time frame between removal and replacement with a fresh battery.
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>>3764798
Checked my 8 games today that have been fitted with keystone holders 3 years ago, they all work perfectly fine. Then again i am not from a very humid country. Shit just doesn't corrode here often.

Internet legend has it that a hoarder named mainman had 40% of his mainman-140-games-collection dead due to battery holder failure.

140 cps2 games... dude... Allah must have punished him for being greedy!
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>>3765203

The reason it corrodes is also due to galvanic corrosion. It doesn't help most holders are chinamanese quality.
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>>3765240
>galvanic corrosion

Is there any way to prevent such? Maybe coat the contacts with solder?
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>>3765308

When I mean corroding I am not talking about the battery terminals, but where you solder the legs in the through holes. When it corrodes it stops providing solid power to the backup table ram.The corrosion doesn't happen right away but after a few years from what i've seen.
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>Building your own cab
Fightcade is the only answer. Hell, I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that's the fate in store for my authentic SF2:TWW CPS1 cab - not that I'll cut harnesses or anything.
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>>3765028
>be quick

Even the most amateur solder-er would be done in the 1 hour timeframe.
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>>3765375

One also needs to factor that changing the battery fast doesn't mean a successful swap. These arcade boards are 20+ years old now and you can't simply rely on the capacitor that holds the charge to be in good shape (most of the time it is though but several people have had theirs die). Some people recommend using a helper battery in this case.

luckily though you aren't fucked. You can phoenix them and pay the jew fee to Razoola/burn them yourself, install clean unencrypted roms, or even restore the encryption table back to factory.
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>>3765461
I don't think Phoenixing is that bad. Especially since it means you never need to worry about it again.

At the end of the day, I think every board will get phoenixed eventually.

I only have a hispanic orange Marvel vs. Capcom A+B, and a Asian Grey Street Fighter Zero 3. I may get rid of them since I'm honestly not big into fighters. I'd rather have an AvP, or like everyone else, a Street Fighter 2 turbo since that's what everyone wants to play.
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>>3765338
There is this little plastic nipple near one of the legs. You need to cut that off in order for the holder to sit absolutely tight against the PCB. I bet most people don't do that. I also make sure my solder points are extremely durable. Well, only time will tell.
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>>3764281
>tfw have a cabinet
>its huge and I barely use it since rarely to people come over, and if I'm going to play arcade games i just use my supergun

Don't fall into the trap OP... It sucks but I think I need to get rid of my cab just because I don't have enough space in my apartment
Thread posts: 29
Thread images: 6


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