Gunpla/Plamo General

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Frame Arms Group Build

This time the idea is to build any Frame Arms, or Frame Arms Girl kit, and paint and customize it.

The rules are overall pretty simple, the base must be recognizable as FA or FA Girl, other than that there's no limit on what you can do.

Due Date: September 1st

Note: This is a prize build, there will be a prize provided by me, there will also be a mystery prize provided by another anon. That means that to enter, I need WIP pictures submitted before the due date. Simply email me some pictures of you working on it, I don't care at what point, as long as it's possible to tell where your final product came from.

Prize Pack:
MSG Free Style Bazooka
MSG Impact Knuckle
MSG Beast Sword
MSG Assault Rifle #2
Miscellaneous supplies

I'm probably going to add more, but I'll let those be a secret.

Email: [email protected]

I'm also available via IRC and Steam

Anyone have advice for sanding flexible ABS? I've never worked with this stuff, and Super Fumina's skirt is pissing me off.

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>>6471874
Jims are great for customs.

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Providence has best backpack

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>>6472023
still a manlet compared to the Sinanju

>>6471972
Daw, what an adorable hat.

>>6472023
Eh, I still prefer it without. Not the biggest fan of weapon platform style backpacks, like the Turn X and Z/ZZ

Damn,gunpla is not the hobby for those who move a lot

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>>6472120
I difer, I love how ridiculous it looks and the fact it carries the most firepower a single suit has access to in the whole SEED story, wonder what those ZAFT engineers were smoking

Hey guys,

how is the Frame Arms line? Any recommended kits etc?

I'm interested in "original" gunpla, meaning the source material is the models itself. As far as I'm aware Frame Arms is it, but are there others?

>>6472187
Frame Arms line is pretty good across the board, with a few mishaps due to the prebuilt frames being a bit loose. Like regular Gunpla, Dalong has reviews of them under his "Kotobukiya" section.

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Can you do this with Hobby Base's 144 Mechanical Hands?

>>6472187
>>6472201
Yeah generally true. The only ones that I'd call bad are the original Gourai and Stylet, which have basically no color separation or decals or anything really.

>>6472187

I just looked and apparently Vlocker is also original.

Alright, so what's the cheapest one can reasonably go on equipment and still get results worth bothering for airbrush stuff? Master TC-20T and a Badger Patriot? What about spraying booths if you get one? Is DIY the better bet there?

I went and got myself all excited and went shopping for things earlier and found this: http://a.co/6C8mlJt I realize the brush is going to need replacing in short order, but if I'm repainting whole pieces and the like would it work short-term? Then there's the booth to consider, not to mention a respirator. There's a lot to consider there, isn't there?

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It's here!

>>6472255
Yeah short term that's not a bad buy, it's let you practice at least. You can also use plastic spoons to hone your skill some. For DIY booth, there are tons of plans out there, but there's also a Master branded one on Amazon.

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>>6472262
Here's the completely modified GM built and standing next to Kimaris Vidar and an RD Guncannon DT (with a custom head because the original broke). The legs turned out a little too long, especially the hip pieces...

>>6472264
>tfw no Guncannon DT kit

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>>6472264
The new range of motion for the ancient GM Command, mostly just a little bit better than the old range of motion...

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>>6472266
The new shoulder pullouts. You might have noticed the arms were taped together. That's because the tolerances of the design were bad and the accuracy of Shapeway's 3D printing is okay but at such a small scale it's off by up to over 0.1mm in some places, so you can imagine why that might be a problem for joints that are like 3mm in diameter. I had to manually hand re-drill the female parts, which meant some were still tight, some were okay, and most were loose and in need of tape to fill it. Hopefully I can design around it next time. I thought if the pegs were 107% larger the nylon would be able to stretch to fit it in, but nope. The nylon is super strong though, so that's good. It's basically injection molded quality if not better, since nylon is a very strong plastic to begin with.

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>>6472268
And a shot from above. The crotch joint also has a swivel/spin but it's so tight it's awkward to use on this one.. And you might've noticed tape on the hips. They can do a 360, if you don't mind them falling apart...

I think 3D printing parts for a 1/100 would work out great, but for 1/144 it's a little iffy. Shapeways is great but the tolerances aren't perfect like Bandai's injection molding so it's really hit or miss, and the super accurate materials are too rigid and fragile for load bearing joints. I'll consider working on it again when I get another GM command to play with. I originally planned to do the GM Command, Guncannon MP, and Alex but I think I'll put a hold on them right now since work is getting busy.

>>6472268
>>6472274
I should point out, I had to basically tear out the shoulders on the back piece. I'd like to just make my own but that piece alone would be like $4 and idk how well it'd mate with the existing piece. But it'd let me design better joints. The front needed some modification too, mostly just cutting the shape into a rectangle instead of the hexagon that was originally there.

>>6472266
>>6472268
>>6472274
>>6472277
This is tempting me to get a 3D scanner and printer... And man I don't need another expensive hobby.

>>6472263
That's another $80 but it's nice and compact and won't look nig-rigged like anything I build likely would. Probably worth the price.

>>6472284
A FDM printer can't print pieces for a 1/144 reliably. I have a custom designed and built one and honestly I kinda made a mistake investing a ton of money into it. It's large and heavy duty and has two extruders but I realized everything I want is small and it's better to have those sorts of things made at shapeways or sculpteo. I can't remember the last thing I printed on it besides new parts for itself before I stored it away.

Don't know about 3D scanners though, worth a try.

>>6472287
Yeah. On the other hand, if you already have house and/or a way to move one, getting one built with wood is totally worth it. Just use a fan like this.

https://smile.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502252201&sr=8-3&keywords=duct+fan

>>6472289
To be honest, if I were to do it, I'd probably to 1/100 only, and probably test it with Frame Arms and MSG bits first.

And between the few grand I'd spend on a really nice scanner and printer, I feel like I'd be better served just investing in more firearms or computer parts, as it'd never be much more than a curiosity to me. Now if I could get a decent scanner and printer for like $350-$400 I might be down.

>>6472262
>>6472264
>>6472274
can you give a link? also how much was it and do you think it was worth it

>>6472290
Space is a part of the reason why I don't have a setup going already. Anything I get needs to be collapsible when I'm done with my session. Of course if I had more space I'd probably be spending more on my OTHER plastic crack addiction too though, so...

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Anybody know what the difference is? Is the K-Fes one clear or chrome or made of soiled JAV idol panties or something?

I'm building the Nu ver KA and the first knuckle of the index and pinky fingers on the right hand is too loose to move. It falls out with even the slightest pressure. The ball joints connecting to the palm are fine, the fingertip joint is fine, and the ring and middle fingers are totally fine, but the index and pinky fingers suck. What can I do to fix it? I really don't want to have to buy an entire new model just for one hand....

>>6472306
It's not for sale, yet. It's my own design and it needs a lot of work before I think I'll make it buyable.

The total was like $25 for everything, including the new forearms and thigh armor, which are longer than the originals. I can probably cut a few dollars by optimizing the layout of the parts. I also feel like the legs were unnecessary, they were half the cost of the set and I only got a little bit more range of motion on the legs because the lower legs are the real problem (or not, the range of motion is pretty good for an old kit). And the ball joint hips are decent, if not a little loose but you can fix looseness with tape or paper. I originally wanted to do just a swiveling crotch for the old balljoint legs but I decided to go the extra mile and I regret redoing the legs, it was a lot of time with the calipers for little benefit imo. The shoulders and arms were the real improvements by far.

I also remade the ankles to be longer to get better side to side, but the hole was too small and the nylon too rigid. I'll be cutting that.

If I cut the legs and ankles out it'd probably be like $13-$15. Maybe I'll charge an extra dollar on top of that.

>>6472306
>do you think it was worth it
As it is, no. Like I said, I'll try working on it some more when I have time and another GM command. Besides fixing the problems I'll try to cut down unnecessary expenses. Right now I want to improve the shoulders on the 1/100 IBO Gundam frames.

>>6472326
Tighten the joints. You can use clear coat, super glue, Future floor polish, clear nail polish, etc.

>>6472331
alright, cool. last question for you, do you recommend shapeways? was thinking of using them to create parts. also how long did it take to ship?

>>6472333
Won't super glue hold it in position, rendering the joint useless?

>>6472346
Yea I recommend shapeways, they're great. The GM parts are in nylon but their frosted extreme detail is great for detailed parts (but it's more brittle so only good for looks).

The estimate was like 10-14 days I think, reasonable since I assume they don't work on weekends like most businesses. But it shipped sooner. I put in the order on July 28th and it shipped on August 4th.

I used them for the Guncannon DT's head too. I think they're pretty good and much cheaper than Sculpteo, which I've never had a reason to use so far. Sculpteo has some different materials that I'd like to try if nylon's quality fails but shapeway's nylon has been top notch and it's the cheapest I've found.

If you want to make parts for gunpla or plamo I recommend a digital caliper. I measure everything using some cheap chinese calipers and as long as I'm not being a retard the measurements work out well. Just don't poke yourself with them, they're sharp.

>>6472351
You put the glue on the ball and let it dry before putting the joint back together. Most of those things would function as an adhesive in some fashion or another if you didn't do things that way.

>>6472355
Ah, gotcha. Ok, thank you.

>>6472352
thanks a lot man, i'll definitely try them out in the future

>>6472352
3D printing is something I've been considering too. Is there a specific program ideal for it, or will any old 3D modeling program do? I've been thinking about taking lessons for using Blender.

>>6472326
>>6472333
>>6472351
>>6472355
>>6472362
I highly recommend tracking down Pledge Floor Polish with Future Shine. Superglue is gross and hard to work with, smells like chemicals, and leaves a powdery white residue when it dries. Pledge, on the other hand, also tightens joints, except it's 100% safe (you can even squirt it right into a joint, it won't freeze it up like superglue would), it's removable with water if you fuck up, it has a pleasant berry smell, and I feel like it does a better job of tightening too.

Went to order some panel liner pens from amazon, and at checkout it looked weird so I checked the shipping that was supposed to be "Standard Shipping (4-5 business days)", and it says since it's a JAPAN IMPORT product, the actual standard shipping is 18-32 business days.

What in the actual fuck is this shit? Does it really take that long or am I a fucking idiot?

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daily reminder

>>6472783
Depends. Unregistered SAL does, but I bought some kits from Amazon recently and the order is shipping Registered which means 8-14 days. In any event it'll probably arrive before Amazon's Estimated Date but it's going to take longer than 4-5 days. Such is the hobby, where 90% of the stuff you buy is imports.

Well if amazon wants to fuck me, can I buy panel liner at a regular hobby shop that normally doesn't carry gunpla? Same with the thin cement glue, nub clippers, files, exacto knives, etc?

>>6472792
To clarify further, if it's a Japan Import it's not Amazon but the third-party seller who decided shipping.
To answer your question- you should be able to buy most of the stuff you want. You might have to get markers/pens from a craft store like Michaels, but any hobby shop worth their plastic will carry all of the other essentials since Gunpla is pretty similar to regular plamo with the exception of not needing glue in most cases whereas with Military scale modeling glue is a necessity.

>>6472616
I use fusion 360 for the joints. The cannon head was done in 3ds max. In any case you want something that lets you control and measure sizes precisely. Blender is a bit awkward for that because their model is to ease everything into place while fusion 360 is a CAD tool and max is an architectural tool so they have precise measurements that are easy to access. Blender is still usable though, just a little more out of the way
Can't beat free though.

>>6472827
>The cannon head was done in 3ds max
Guncannon head. Phone posting

How's E2046?

>>6472835
utter shite, avoid like the damned plague

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So I have a couple of Plamo coming in via USPS and woke up to this alert. Does anyone know what it really means? Because I double checked and the address I gave was entirely correct.

>>6472864
Could be a mistake on their end. I've had an order ship to Wisconsin and I live in Pa. It'll still get to you

>>6472187
Maschinen Krieger is original and pretty cool.

>>6472880
Yeah, I called the local post office and they said they threw it on the wrong truck. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't headed back to Japan.

>>6472023

that is a nice set of decals anon, care to share where you got them?

>>6473076
they come with the providence effect parts

So does anybody have any experience with the Sky Girls Vic Viper models? I want a VV and they seem to be the cheapest route.

>>6472208
although in Gourai's defense she has far lass need for color seperation then Stylet. The areas that need it are more par the course for most plamo kit.

but yeah will agree she is 'bad', outdated enough that one should only get her if they really like Gourai. Maybe also get a materia or innocentia and add gourai parts to that instead.

Guys, I'm ready to buy a new MG Model Kit. Can't decide which one I want. Both are great mobile suits in my opinion but I am only buying one right now.

Help me decide:

Sinanju Stein

or

Jesta

>>6473437
Well Jesta's cheaper and a really fun kit to pose around. The rifle is a but plain, but I can't really find any faults with the kit, it's solid all around other than a sorta fiddly shield mechanism. The Stein is a visually impressive kit, again solid, but also bigger so posing might be a bit more limited without an action base. Though it's more expensive. I guess it really comes down to how much do you feel like spending and what do you plan on doing with the kit

>>6473437

Both are good, the jesta is easier to pose since it doesn't have a fuckhuge gun.

>>6473449
I intend to buy a stand for the kit either way. Does that make a different?

>>6473452
Then like the other guy said besides the huge gun, it's however much you feel like spending or which one's design tickles your fancy more. Can't go wrong either way, buuuuuuuuuttt I would personally go with the Jesta because I'm a GM/Grunt fan

>>6473469
valid points. I would get the Jesta Cannon if it wasn't so expensive (fucking exclusives).

I guess I'll have to ponder it a bit

>>6473419
hes talking about the frame arms dummy

>>6473521
oh, derp, completely missed that. So use to the FAGs rather then the actual FA being the topic of discussion that I went auto pilot there.

In that case, even that Gourai still has more then adequate 'color separation' for it's design. Heck I feel the full robot form works with the lack of color separation better then the FAG does. However the lack of decals is a HUGE downside that I feel is more needed to break up the monotone of the kit then a few extra colored areas.

What's everyone's preferred primer?

I've been using Mr Surface Primer since the regular surfacer was sold out at the time, and I'm not liking it. It doesn't seem to adhere well to the plastic. Before I go back to surfacer when this runs out, I was wondering if there are better options.

I've been wanting to get into gunpla for a while but I'm poor. How likely is it that if I make a decent job at painting, I can sell it for equal to/more than retail of unbuilt kit so that I can have a self-paying hobby ? I don't care about keeping them since I'm not into gundam that much and I hate owning stuff although they're fun to build.

>>6473814
I dunno how likely that is, but I think more people would rather have commissions done. It wouldn't hurt trying, don't let me discourage you (trust me, I'd like to do something similar) It's something you have to invest in first to show that you're capable and can do more than the average consumer. Doctor Faust on youtube has a video about this, but it's War Hammer miniatures instead

>>6473860
Thanks I'll check it out. I guess if I'm going to do commission then I'd need a reputation.

>>6473879
Right, start small and get yourself out there. It's not much different than other artists, you just know your niche

I ordered this a bit ago for my first kit. Was it a waste of money or is it a good deal?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1JYXKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>>6473588
Yeah it's monocolor isn't a bad thing entirely, it's just an overall meh kit. If you can get one for like $20-$25, go for it though, great practice.

>>6473979
I recall someone saying the whole thing was pretty bad.

>>6473979
you'll grow out of it, but it's better than toenail clippers i guess. 20 bux isn't such a waste of money once you've replaced it all with good counterparts

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P-Bandai

>>6473986
>>6473987
but for a first kit is it good? I mean obviously I'll end up buying more expensive shit if I really get in to it, but it's a testing the waters kind of thing. Plus that model separator seems super cool

>>6473979
Someone here got that same kit and hated it. You can put together one yourself over time if you do it piecemeal and it won't hurt too badly. All you actually need to start are nippers, a knife and sandpaper anyway, the rest can be added as needed or you can use makeshift tools until you can be assed to get something better.

>>6473989
Not a fan of the fact that the EFF are flat decals when the original HG had a raised plastic face for the star.

>>6473997
It's good for starting out. No sense blowing a bunch of money on tools you might not use much again. Eventually if you get into it and thing you want to get better stuff, then go for the more expensive stuff, but even then you still don't need to buy "the best". Don't worry so much

>>6473989
godfuckingdamnit

>>6474009
Those were my thoughts exactly. I wanted the best bang for my buck and didn't want to throw money in to it unless I knew I'd enjoy it.

>>6473989
MP GUNCANNON WHEN YOU FUCKING ASSHOLES

Dammit Bandai we need a Guncannon 2.0 and a MP Guncannon!

>>6474021
I'd rather see a Guncannon DT instead of the stock Guncannon but we both know which is more popular.
Maybe a Thunderbolt Guncannon would be nice.

>>6474025
Guncannon DT would be nice but it's completely unrelated to the Guncannon considering it's a canon dressed up Methuss

>>6474021
There are many times I considered getting the old MG Guncannon and modding it into the MP

RAG-79 Aqua GM when?
RGM-79［M］Underwater Type GM when?
RX-77AQ Guncannon Aqua when?
Hell, new Aquatic Feddie suit when? Making the RAG-79-G1 GunDiver P-Bandai was too much.

>>6473979
I ordered that exact kit for my girlfriend. The hobby knife is okay, the rest of the kit wasn't that good.

You're better off getting some xuron nippers for $10, any hobby knife, some 800 and 2000 grit sand paper, and a set of panel line pens. It'll cost around the same price before the pens.

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>>6473504
I have a Jesta, and it's a great kit, if that's any consolation. It was my first modern MG.

So I'm trying my hand at hand painting. I think I'm doing okay. I've made the mistake of using tamiya acrylics for the job. It doesn't seem like I'm going too thick, but I notice some parts are darker with the faintest hint of brush strokes.

This is only two coats in with a couple hours between each.

Anyone got any critiques or advice for me?

>>6473166
>So does anybody have any experience with the Sky Girls Vic Viper models? I want a VV and they seem to be the cheapest route.

I have the Gradius 2 & Gradius V Vic Viper kits from that line.

They require a LOT of work to make them look good. Parts require a lot of cleanup removing flash & a lot of filling/ seamwelding to get the fit right. The colour/part separation is really good for painting however. If you only snapfit your kits, avoid these like the plague.

Considering this line is pretty much the only choice available for a plastic vic viper kit, the sky girls versions are worth it if you can pick one up cheap off mandy or somewhere. The normal gradius 1 - V versions are WAY too expensive these days to be worth it.

>>6474082
Tamiya's acrylics are not good for handpainting, you should use Vallejo or some other brand

>>6474117
Yeah, I learned that lesson after I already got my paint. I feel like I'm getting the hang of it, though. I'm gonna see what I can do with this HG as a practice kit, and if I feel the need, I'll order some Vallejo or something when I actually paint a kit I care about.

In all honesty, I'll probably just wind up spraypainting instead and save the tamiya stiff for if I ever get an airbrush.

>>6474116
>The normal gradius 1 - V versions are WAY too expensive these days to be worth it.
My friend has the Gradius 2 one for a little over $60 and...it's a mess.
But hey, I won't shy away from a project.

>>6474150

are you just using tamiya acrylic thinner to thin it?

one thing you can do is thin tamiya acrylic with lacquer thinner, the paint is a lot more durable and it hand brushes better. Tamiya themselves recommend this in the data sheet for tamiya acrylics.

>>6474157

$60 is fairly cheap now (hilariously, its listed on amazon for $399). I can confirm the 2 version is pretty horrible though, the V version isnt much better. They used to be common on Mandarake years ago but the only ones that usually show up anymore are the sky girls versions. From memory I think i paid $30 each but that was at least 7 years ago.

>>6474194
As someone who has used Tamiya actylics with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner and Mr. Retarder, this is wrong. It's no easier to handbrush that way either.

>>6474220
When you use them with lacquer thinner, how durable is the finish as a result, and how comparable is it to using actual Mr Color lacquer?

>>6474223
It leaves huge, horrible streaks that aren't covered by successive layers or crosshatch painting. Tamiya acrylics are just not good for handpainting.

And they're acrylics, they're not going to be durable at all since the lacquer solvent evaporates. Mine sure weren't, even after curing.

>>6474230
My bad, I meant to be asking how it turns out from airbrushing. How's that one?

For pla plate scratch building, how thick should the pieces be to not bend like paper?

>>6474233
Oh, properly airbrushed it looks nice, the way you'd expect it to. For me laying on thin, successive wet layers leaves gloss paints looking glossy, and a topcoat makes it flat. The finishes still aren't durable, but a topcoat helps with that.

>>6474238
So basically, still can't beat lacquers even if you put lacquer thinner into tamiya paint huh?

But it's still better than *cough cough* Vallejo.

>>6474236
It depends on the dimensions...

Instead of using a thicker sheet, add a perpendicular support like a Rib. For convenience, you can also use styrene L-brackets and I-beams to help resist bending. Railroad/train model supply stores should have them.

>>6473989
It feels like every MG GM since the 2.0 except the sniper II has been P-bandai, being a MG feddie is suffering. We got the jesta atleast but where is the loto, jegan and Carl Gustav?

>>6474491
>Loto
Barely relevant in Unicorn, so I doubt it. Might get a kit one day if Katoki gets high again and says he wants to make one, like with the Ball ver. Ka.
>Gustav Karl
A short cameo in Unicorn isn't really enough to justify an MG. Hathaway's Flash ver. Gustav Karl never ever, or anything else from HF, really.
>Jegan
There's no excuse for this injustice.

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>>6474194
I've used lacquers for 3 years now and used tamiya for 5 and I would NEVER suggest using lacquer thinner with it for handbrushing. It dries way too fast for that. Works great for airbrushing though.

>>6474506
But the loto got such a cool mjolnir Mk. V head!
Most zaku variants are normal releases except for the ace pilots, while all production line gms are P-bandai.

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>>6474718
That's the thing, Zakus are just as popular as Gundams, some would argue moreso. You just have to learn to cope better with the suffering that is being a Jim fan.
>Gelgoog Cannon and Zaku Cannon were regular releases
>GM Cannon is P-Bandai
>Johnny Ridden, Shin Matsunaga, White Ogre Zaku IIs are regular releases
>White Dingo Sniper II is P-Bandai
>For reasons known only to Bandai the Powered GM and GM Command are also fucking P-Bandai
I can't really get too mad about the GM II being P-Bandai. The only notable thing one did in Zeta was posthumously tripping up a Titan MS and allowing someone else to blow it up, and in Unicorn they appeared solely to make the Juaggu look cool. The Semi-Striker was kinda neat, but that's partially kitbashed with the GM Striker and it too was there just to make the Efreet Schneid look good.

>>6474491
They all reuse the GM v2 frame too. It's a good frame but are these gm variants expected to sell so few that they couldn't make a regular release for something that's just new armor

>>6474009
But if that's your thought, just get the bare minimum of knife, nippers, and sandpaper instead and pick up anything else you need as needed.

>>6474689

What kind of ratio do you thin it with when using lacquer thinner?

I have like a single jar of tamiya paint (smoke) and I have mr leveling thinner and I'd like to know roughly what ratios I should use.

>>6474755
Atleast put out a pack with only the new parts for the GM variations so you can use the 2.0 to build them.
Are any of the GMs from before the 2.0 worth building?

>mg gm space command is p bandai

How long will we suffer, GM bro ?

How difficult/expensive is it to make your own resin parts?

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>>6474910
>How difficult/expensive
The less experience you have and the more ambitious you are with what you want to recast, the more difficult and expensive it will be.
For your first attempt do not expect to be successful.

>>6475009
i tried recasting something like this(hresvelgr's beam scythe blade) with oyamaru and it went badly

>>6475019
Why? Too much flash? Airbubbles? Bad mold?

>>6475024
had just barely enough oyamaru to cover the piece, so i didnt use a frame which sucks
being irregularly shaped the second half of the mold didnt go on as well and my alignment guides were useless
also because the piece was long and thin it flexed easily, so casting it without using a frame
was kinda a pain
i tried casting it anyway but my mold was bad at the sharp edges and the mold halves were misaligned so i quickly gave up casting that poece in particular

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Finally finished my first airbrushed kit and my GBWC entry, with only a few hours until I leave tonight. I'm under no belief that I'll actually win anything but it was nice to have a motivation to make me actually do real work on a kit after building them for the last 6 years.

A lot of dust wound up getting trapped in the paint, I have a very dusty house so I'm not sure what I can do about that. I have an an air purifier that's meant for pets as well but it hasn't seemed to do anything.

>>6475049
Also I promise that it IS panel lined, but due to my time crunch I couldn't get any of the Tamiya black wash in time and my hobby store only stocked Gray and Brown. Should have home-brewed one but it's too late now.

Also used the Tamiya weathering set, the brush kinda sucks and I didn't get the exact results I wanted, but I've never weathered before so maybe it's better than what I think.

>>6474772
I just eyeball it until its "milk-like", same as with regular acrylic thinner.

>>6475049
Otakon? I'm putting the finishing touches on my kit tonight too.

>>6475071
Yep. First year I'm going there and just got back into gunpla a few months ago, so the timing really worked for me to make mine.

What are you bringing with you?

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>>6475124
This (pic is a mock up before full mods and painting) plus a diorama base if I can finish it in time. It's going to be my final year going.

>>6475143
Looks pretty good there, I like the mash-up. I'll keep an eye out for it on the floor, best luck to you man.
I was also going for a diorama base though, just a little asteroid behind it with some space print, but couldn't get to it in time.

>>6475190
Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for yours too. Contests like this are fun even if you don't win anything because its nice to show off what you can do a little, talk shop with other modelers, and pick up some tips. By the way, do you know when the dropoff period is? I haven't gotten an email from bluefin about it.

>>6475222
Oh thank god, I was getting worried my submission failed but I'm glad I"m not the only one who didn't get an e-mail. We're meant to just take our kits to Bluefin's booth between open of the con and Sat 1PM.

>place order to amiami
>don't get payment request until exactly 5pm japan time
>payment won't get processed today because of mountain day
>tfw if they don't process it saturday, it'll get delayed until tuesday
>tfw all my shit from amazon will get here before my ems package

;_;

>>6475277
>tfw my package took 4 weeks to get to NYC
>tfw it's been sitting in NYC for almost 5 days
>tfw NYC is a 5 hour drive away
fuck USPS

>>6475299
Did you SAL or EMS it?

>>6475308
I thought it was EMS, I can track it EMS, but according to who I bought it from it's not EMS

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>>6471933
I don't know if you guys are the right ones to ask, but I fondly remember putting together some officially branded Jurassic Park model kits like this when I was little and I'd like to give it another go now that I could actually not make a total mess of things.
But the Jurassic Park kits are way too much money now for a plastic dinosaur, are there any similar kits that you know of that are cheap-ish? Scientific accuracy really doesn't matter and I kinda want cheesy old dinosaurs, I just don't want to pay much.

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>>6475313
Unfortunately none that I'm aware of. Most modern dinosaur models I know tend to be expensive and require lots of paint and glue.

>>6475313
https://www.ebay.com/sch/Other-Models-Kits/774/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=dinosaur+model

>>6475331
They do look great though, even if some of them aren't scientifically accurate anymore.

>>6475313
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dinosaur-Model-Kit-Lindeberg-New-Sealed-Stegosaurus-Anklyosaurus-Corythosaurus-/222532603792?hash=item33cffa0f90:g:fpgAAOSwurZZMViL

Same exact kits, you should have searched Lindberg instead of Jrassic Park. They are cheaper than dirt.

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>>6475335

>havent bought a kit in a while
>want some cheap little 1/144 to tide me over
>see the Dantalion for the first time

Bought it as soon as I saw it, those big fucking gorilla arms turning into a jetpack on top of a massive folding sword gun AND A STAND FOR 20 DOLLARS

>>6475331
>>6475332
>>6475335
>>6475338
>>6475339
Thanks, anons. I feel stupid for not just looking up Lindberg in the first place.

Is there a good beginners guide to hand painting gunpla? The OP only covers airbrush.

>>6475480
There're only two things you need to know about hand painting, and that's brush in every direction for best coverage and thin your paints

Regarding hand painting, anyone here from the EU, or anyone that knows a good online shop I can buy paint for hand brushing that doesn't have huge shipping costs? A good selection is would be nice too.

Howdy folks, /awg/ from /tg/ here. I've been pondering making a new modern styled 1/144 Gunpla wargame. Decided to put together a trial rule set and wanted some feedback on it. This is literally "we're brain storming right now" tier rules. Wouldn't mind some feedback since you guys are the people who would be playing it.

There will be co op on the way. Want to make it so builders have a reason to get their gunpla off the shelf even if they have no friends to play with.

https://pastebin.com/QexevFye

So I read the doc, but I still gotta ask: as someone who's only built HGs, should I go MG or RG next? There are a lot more RG variety at my shop, and obviously it's cheaper, but I've heard they can be hell for someone with big hands.

>>6475718
I have big hands.... and some are a bit tricky. But they're OK with a bit of patience.

How well does Vallejo's Model Color work with airbrushing? My local hobby shop carries it, but not their Model Air line. I've been leaning towards using them over Tamiya because of the greater color range, but I've heard things about the Model Color line not being made for airbrushing.

>>6475769
I use it for airbrushing, its finicky but using Flow Improver helps a lot.

>>6474733
>Gelgoog Cannon and Zaku Cannon were regular releases

I fucking wish Gelgoog Cannon was a regular release

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Oh boy.

Any opinion between these RG sets: strike freedom, regular freedom, rx178 mk ii, and zeta?

>>6474733
Powered GM had to be P-Bandai, it was a variant of an old as fuck MG. It'd be the equivalent of HG Tristan if it actually came out regularly.

GMs just aren't as popular as Zakus. That's really all there is to it.

>>6475880
That reminds me, I'm still kind of worried about MG Hazel. The mkII 2.0 frame was amazingly detailed, but it's not exactly going to be winning any engineering awards these days. I'm wary that the kit is going to be seam hell.

P-Bandai isnt even an excuse to not get a kit anymore. The internet exists, there's plenty of stores online that sell P-Bandai kits, either during release or on the pre-owned market

>but muh extortion

get a job

>but muh regular releases

suck it up

>but muh principle

no one's forcing you to buy it, if you want it so much, go kitbash one yourself

>but muh _____

get over it.

>>6475898
It sucks for kits that were P-Bandai over a year though, supply slowly gets sucked up over time without reprints

>>6475049
Spray a good mist of water all around your area prior to working to make the airbrone dust particles drop to the ground.

>>6474082
You get that with Tamiya, it helps to not try to cover everything too much, and to thin the paint a tad.
Boy did I not thin mine the first time I mass-handpainted with Tamiya, I got it the worst with Clear Yellow.
That all said, in your pics you can barely see the overshading, so I think you're good. If you do want to retry though, because it's acrylic Purple Power will knock it off in no time.

>>6475898
Nigger I have a job.
The problem isn't the money. The problem is almost never the money. The problem is that I do not value the kits as high as they're being sold for and the opportunity cost of the kids. Not when I can clearly look up the MSRP and all the offers are twice at minimum, with Mandarake sometimes being cheaper.
I do not mind on things that are essentially recolors like the billion of Zaku II MGs there are, but kits with several unique parts like Altron MG or Qan[T] Full Saber RG being twice what I should be paying for is what gets me.
For the price of a 5000 Yen Qan[T] that Mandarake offers, I can get around 3 normal RGs, or several combinations of HGs, RGs, even MGs.

>>6475898
Anon says it all right here >>6476178. At its cheapest, P-Bandai charges full Bandai's MSRP + 8% sales tax + 648 shipping. If you live outside of Japan, you're paying middleman/forwarder fees and shipping from Japan to wherever you live on top of that.

Using the new Accelerate GN-X as an example, it costs a total of 3132 (2484+648) yen for someone in Japan to buy one. Because Japan's 8% sales tax is already included in the P-Bandai price, that means if the Accelerate GN-X was a regular release its MSRP would be 2300 yen. And if it were sold in real, brick-and-mortar stores it'd be even cheaper than that, because many stores in Japan will sell Gunpla at 95% or less of their MSRP — this will be a bit misleading seeing as my examples are of online retailers, but HLJ sells Gunpla at 85%, AmiAmi at 80%, and even Amazon Japan tends to aim for ~90% for newly released kits. So for the price someone in Japan pays for the Accelerate GN-X, they could easily get multiple HGs, an HG+RG, or even one of the cheaper MGs. Hell, for 3132 yen people in Japan can pick up 3 HG GN-Xs on Amazon (1001 yen; ~83% of MSRP) and still have enough change to buy some soda.

Will people still buy P-Bandai kits if they like them? Of course. I myself have the Limited Color Mk-II, GM Command, and Accelerate GN-X preordered, and am currently debating on preordering the Pale Rider Space Type and Waveshooter Zeta or just waiting to pick them up off of Mandarake with a bunch of discounted regularly-released kits. I'm probably going to buy even more from P-Bandai in the future, since I recently set up 2you4 too forward my purchases from them. But for each P-Bandai kit I buy, I could have easily bought two, maybe three kits in the same grade. And that's the big deal breaker.

Should I get an Astray?

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>>6476321
Astrays are ugly.

>>6476178
>>6476233
Then dont fucking buy it and kitbash your own. Says it right there.

And if money isnt the issue, why dont you preorder it from a gajillion sources on the internet?

>muh value

If you dont value it enough for the price then, DONT FUCKING BUY IT. crying about it on the internet isnt gonna suddenly make it a regular release

>but m-muh XN Raiser

Did you even buy it? You whiney little shit.

>>6476342
Just wanted to make sure that meme was still alive.

I do plan on getting that Astray Out Frame. Anyone here build it OOB?

>>6476344
>it's okay to price-gouge because ???
Fuck off retard.

>>6476368
what part of dont buy it do you not understand?

you're the only retard here if you cant even grasp that concept.

>>6476384
Are you a Scalper or something? I seriously can't understand what runs through someones mind that they defend a company for exorbitant price gouging unless they're either an investor or someone making profit (scalping)
We haven't even touched on the fact it can be hard to impossible to find older P-Bandai kits that are completely sold out.

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Hi! I'm proud of the kit I just built, and I want to start posting more pictures of my kits in general. Does anyone know how to make any quick blogs/galleries that are good for this, kinda like https://crazypipogunpla.wordpress.com/ and other stuff?

>>6476405
why the fuck did 4chan rotate the image it's right side up in my browser and on all other sites i posted it on

>>6476405
Why not just start a Wordpress like that guy? it's fairly easy if you're familiar with blogging at all. I used to run one myself, Wordpress is a little more complicated than Blogger but it's also nicer looking and more customizable, so I would recommend that if you can handle it.

>>6476414
You probably posted from your phone, right? Metadata states which way is up on your phone photos, and 4chan strips metadata when you upload images.

Also, I'm gonna try to say this gently, cause most people here won't give you that courtesy. Your builds need some work, bruh. Especially if you're gonna be starting a blog. You have exposed nubs and scarring all over the place, your paint is kinda thick, and your panel lines are inconsistent and patchy. Heck, the sticker is even peeling on your TurnA's head. Take some care with them, go back and fix those nubs (nubs are like cardinal sin #1 in Gunpla, you will get called out on that instantly), and read the guide in OP post to pick up some good building tips. Good luck man!

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>>6476418
Sorry, the Turn A is a kit I built like two years ago and just pulled off the shelf to compare size.

Can you point out the nubs on the F91? I thought I got most of them (except for the one on the V-Fin, I need to fix that one). How can I fix scarring?

>>6476344
>muh value
>people saying the kits are more valuable than what they are are the reason why prices are set high
>I'm not allowed to complain that stores set the prices arbitrarily high on p-bandai kits
Nigga what?

>>6476431
>free market pricing how does it work

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Does anyone here have the Daban The-O???

How is the quality? a local store has them at the moment & i'm wondering if its worth putting up with lesser quality for a hugely discounted price.

>>6476435
>Gunpla
>free market
The term you're looking for is "equilbrium price," unless in your fantasy land there's some other company that can compete in the Gunpla market. Unlicensed third parties like Daban, MC Model, and so on aren't even in the same market for the vast majority of P-Bandai kits; it's either pay what Bandai, the sole providor, wants you to, or get nothing..

>>6475769

Works fine but never ever mix it in the cup. As mentioned by >>6475777, flow improver helps.

Thin it by at least 50% with the vallejo thinner, probably more. It's been a while since I used it.

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Wahey

As far as P-Bandai goes, I'm usually of the opinion that it only really hurts OOB builders. If you're really into the hobby, you're either going to just scratchbuild whatever minor variant it is or spend so much time on each project that one kit costing more doesn't matter. Fuck, if you think P-Bandai prices are bad then get into resin.

But if you're the type who just builds stuff en masse? Who's still at the phase where "I could buy three HGs for that price!" is a valid complaint and not a remnant of a time where your backlog didn't fill a closet? Then yeah, the extra cost adds up fast and can really sour you on the concept.

Overall I still think the line's done more good than harm though: these days it's never "will this design get a kit?", it's "will this design get a regular release?". I also think it's done a lot to encourage the 3rd party market, which has led to some interesting new waves in the market. I'm still not sure if MG Tallgeese III was in response to DM's, but we got it and it fucking blew DM's out of the water. I'm sorta hopeful that Bandai looks at whatever 3rd party releases do really great and consider that for their own releases.

>>6476429
Idk, you can see better than me, you should check it for nubs if you haven't been paying close attention. The V-fin is particular bad though. To prevent scarring, don't snip close to the part. Snipping too close can tear plastic right out of the piece, especially since most nippers "pinch" instead of slicing. Snip further away and leave a tiny bit of sprue poking out, then sand or carefully x-acto that bit off.

>>6476463
Fuck, I had been snipping too close for that. Thanks.

>>6476461
So your argument is;
"I'm an Elitist and FUCK snapshitters, I wish every kit was P-Bandai so they'd leave my hobby and I could scratchbuild 90% of my kit in peace because I'm the greatest and you retards need to worship me!"

>>6476466
you snapshitters project too much.

keep on complaining though. it's still not going to change anything.

>>6476474
>what do you mean you can't build 90% of the kit from scratch out of plaplate? Just pay for the UNIQUE P-Bandai kits, cuck
I have no problem with the recolored P-Bandai kits. The problem I have is they are gating a whole shit ton of completely unique kits behind P-Bandai to the point there are mobile suits you can't even get anymore without searching hard to pay twice the list price.

>>6476476
Every P-Bandai release has recycled runners like mad. I'm sorry, but the 00Q Full Saber is not a "unique" design. Neither is the MG Hazel, nor the MG Banshee Norn and especially not the MG vEW releases. A much better thing to complain about would be accessory packs like the HWS or the Mega Bazooka Launcher that have become more and more prevalent (practically mandatory for RG). I think the reason given is that they'd jack up the prices of the base kits, but come the fuck on why would you release the V2 without its WoL?

>>6476466
If you got that out of my post, then you're clearly not interested in a conversation about my opinion and just want to reduce what I wrote to an incendiary statement so you can bait and then "win" an argument.

Please don't do that.

>>6476480
>Neither is the MG Hazel
Explain where you're going to get the parts to "kitbash" a MG Hazel from? Every kit uses the same inner frame as 50 other kits, regular release or P-Bandai doesn't change that. I'll give you the Norn because it's essentially the Banshee equiv of the Full Armor Unicorn if I remember correctly and you really don't need the different armament.
As for the Endless Waltz, it's a mixed bag. As far as I'm aware the Sandrock is essentially on the same-tier as a recolor, the Tallgeeses can be bought third-party if you want to save money and I'm not sure about the Heavyarms.

>>6476485
The MG Hazel's frame has explicitly been stated to recycle the MG mkII 2.0's frame. And if you look closely at the preview pics, you can see where it straight up reuses mkII 2.0 parts: the arms, the thighs, and the waist.

It is thus not an entirely unique release, which is part of the reason it's P-Bandai. Actually the only P-Bandai release I know of that was truly unique was the HG Pale Rider, which much to my surprise when a friend got it had entirely new runners. But they've been rereleasing that thing with minor add ons ever since, so I guess they figured they might as well get their money's worth out of those molds.

I said nothing about kitbashing, so I'd appreciate if you didn't put words in my mouth. If you want to make the kits yourself you're either going to have to get into scratchbuilding (easier than ever before thanks to 3D printing, for what it's worth) or wait for someone to recast it (which happens more and more these days, happily).

>>6476490
>3D Printing
Now I know you're not seriously.

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Oh boy, gluing dark plastic is such a bundle of fun...

Any thoughts?

Or "just fucking paint your models"?

>>6476556
>tfw can't afford an airbrush
I feel you.

>>6476557

I even have the airbrush and everything, I just don't have the motivation to put in the 800 hours on fucking up kit after kit until I can airbrush properly.

That's time I want to spend on fucking up the fun parts instead, i.e building.

>>6476321
Not the Blue Frame Second L

>>6476556
have yet to try this with dark plastic but if using extra thin cement then try this. Shave off a long thin sliver of sprue of the same plastic as the head. Cut it to the right length and then lay down a bit of cement over that seam. Now lay the sprue over it, putting some cement over top as well. Itr should start softening letting you push it more into the shape along the seam. After a little bit it might have softened enough to begin smushing down further into the seamline, if not add a little bit more cement. After all of that you can finish it up by trying to flatten down the edges so everything melds together perfectly and you won't have an edges to catch on when you sand it smooth afterwards.

again no idea how this may work on darker plastic but aside from a few scarring examples here and there this has worked for me.

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>>6476615

That's a good idea, although this is already a fairly conservative amount of extra thin cement. It just wreaks havoc on these dark colors.

I have a couple of seams I was planning to just cover with more pieces because they're so white and bubbly, it couldn't hurt give the shaving method a try.

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>>6476459
hmmm, head's a bit too big.

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>>6476556
>>6476615
>>6476628
You need to realize that even extra thin cement still has 10% resin in it and that is what is fucking with your colors. You need cement with 100% solvent and no resin.

>>6476688
>putting breasts on your FAG
Cease

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>>6476694
>depriving your FAG of feminine joys

>>6476702
Pettanko a best, DFC or bust.

>>6476688

I was under the impression that Tamiya Extra Thin is just an small, expensive bottle of acetone.

Guess I'll have to go pick up a big, cheap, scary bottle of acetone from the hardware store.

>>6476712
is that pun on purpose or

Hey guys, I need some help
Up until now I've been storing my models on a basic bookshelf with no problems
I recently bought a kitten and I realized that as soon as he gets old enough to jump high he's going to fucking wreck my shit by knocking it all down
Where can I get some cat-proof display units for my models? Sorry this isn't really about gunpla in general, I didn't know where to ask.

>>6476746
a cage for your cat would be cheaper desu

>>6476702
That expression reminds me of Asanagi's art.

>>6476746
Train him to not jump on the furnature by putting sticky mats on the shelves. That's what I did, my boy doesn't jump on the model shelf at all.

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>>6476694
>Putting
They should be there in the first place. Luckily the more recent models have fixed that molding issue.

>>6476811
There are only two things I don't want on my FAG. Breasts, and facial expressions.

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>>6476818
"You suck and we hate you. "
-Kotobukiya

P.s Give us shekels anyway.

>>6476832
*buys 5 Gourais*
your move

>>6476835

Speaking of Gourai (the non-FAG), is the new version any good? Been meaning to get one for some time now.

>>6476842
>new version
you speak of things that do not exist

>>6476835
*includes new faceplates in future rereleases*
Nothing personnel, kid.

>>6476863
Life is tough when you like autistic flatties.

>>6476746
I hung some floating shelves that were far enough away from any other jumping point that there was no way for my cat to get onto them. He would have needed a 4.5 foot vertical leap to get on there. I don't know if this will be possible for you though, depending on your home arrangement.

>>6476874
yeah that's not gonna work.
i guess i'll have to take the hard route and do this >>6476777

Thanks for the input

>>6476870
Well, at least you'll always have the option to leave them autistic but you won't be getting any pettanko for a while, at least until they let go of Fumikane's leash and stop using guest artists. Oh well, there are always mods.

>>6476892
There's always the /buyfag/ Detolf route if you just want a cheap case. $60 at Ikea.

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>>6476746
Glass ikea cases or buy scrap clear acrylic from lazer cutters for cheap and build little boxes to cover your stuff. Also make sure to train him not to get up on the shelves.

More to worry about is that kittens go through a stage where they chew on EVERYTHING. Keep your stuff out of his reach or put away if you don't want little bite marks all over it.

>>6476895
Fumikane is a god.

>>6476924
That kit[spoiler]ten[/spoiler] is adorable
[spoiler]:^)[/spoiler]

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>>6476928
and the god giveth

>>6476934
t-too round

>>6476934

Is this a megami device?

>>6476934
Ah, he's doing that thing where he makes average breasts look incredible. I love it.

>>6477174
cease this

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MG Providence complete

Hey Guys /tg/ herre. Getting into this, Read the guide, thanks for putting it together! If i have experience with puytting together plastic kits for 40k (tau specifically), how much of that rolls over for this stuff? Other than not glueing, is there much of a difference? Should I still stick with the recommended beginner models, or do you think I can go to more advanced ones straight away?

>>6477266
Most modern Bandai kits aren't very difficult as long as you can follow pictorial instructions, honestly the only real difference between grades of kits is part count. The difficulty level doesn't increase very much for the most part.

I would probably recommend picking up a fairly recently produced HGUC as your first kit just to get the feel of it. High Grades are good beginner material, but they're also quite nice and respectable kits in their own right. It's starting at mid-level in other words, not at the bottom (bottom would be like no-grade 1/44 or first grade). I'd probably say something from the Iron Blooded Orphans or Origins lines would be a good starter. Good luck, post your build when you're done!

>>6477266
If you're used to anything else, gunpla will feel like baby stuff. The only thing you may have trouble with if you're used to painting miniatures with lots of detail is getting the large flat surfaces to look good when painting.

>>6476459
Waiting for Daban version.
Rumors that they will have MB Exia + Avalanche kit.

>>6476632
>third avalanche

Why.jpeg

So lets say I want to go buy a first build from a hobby shop that apparently carries gundam kits. And lets also say I want to paint said kit. From what I've seen in videos, people just get a bunch of skewers and alligator clips, then spraypaint the kits grey or something. Do I need a specific type of paint for that? They then go and paint the rest of the model and coat it in some clear stuff from a can. Again, what stuff?

I've also seen people put on stickers and panel line, then spray the model with some stuff, then go and do weathering stuff. Is that the same stuff from up above? The clear can stuff?

>>6477385
Do yourself a favor and build the kit first. See what you like and do not like about it before stepping into paint.
But a list:
-You need something to hold the pieces to paint. Skewers + alligator clips are common, skewers and sticky tac work for pieces that the clips cant bite onto without damaging something.
-The grey spray paint is likely a primer. Gives something the paint can adhere to so it doesn't flake/peel off.
-Clear stuff is top coat. Comes in gloss, semi gloss, flat, matte, etc. Protects the paint underneat. And yes same stuff is used to weather/stickers, etc. It's a clear layer they can mess with without messing with the stuff underneath it.

Longer explanation of the above: most top coats are lacquer which don't react much to mineral spirits/enamel thinner. Thus with a top coat layer on, one can weather using enamels, smudge/work the stuff without lifting off the top coat layer and ruining the previous stickers/panel lines.

Again, get the kit first and build it. Then decide what you want to do with it.

>>6477400
Awesome, thanks. I don't know what kits they sell, so I'll have to go see. But I know I did want to do basic weathering on it, even if I don't paint it.

>>6477263
looks good but clear plastic effects kinda ruin it

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Pale Rider's a pretty fun build. Was kinda surprised that the main body only uses five runners (although there's technically eight, but those other three are the polycaps, beam sabers, and visor piece).

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Holy crap I may actually get something built this year at this rate.
Update on the 1/100 F2000 Zaku resin conversion kit.
I'd say 50% done now, Knees and leg thrusters are still on sticks as they needed masking for multiple purple shades.
I cant praise highly enough Mr Color flat topcoat.

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>>6477675

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>>6477463
you think? I really like them, they look so much better than the meager effect parts the kit itself comes with

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>>6477694
the actual weapons are a pain in the ass
the rifle is so fucking big the kit has a lot of trouble to just hold it, hell, attaching it to the hand is very difficult and will fall off by blnking at it
the shield is heavy by itself, but if you attach the gigantic beam blade, the arm will sag down

>>6476563
Do what I'm going to do:
Buy one cheapo kit (old GM or any old high grade) for practicing on different shapes. For general practice use plastic spoons. It doesn't have to be an expensive train wreck.

>>6477675
>>6477679
Mmm, beauty.

>>6477694
it -is- nice that they're poseable.
And the standard effect parts are pretty unimpressive, yeah.

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>>6477404
Okay so my hobby shop only had a few gundams there, but I was able to snag this guy for $21.
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-MS-05-Origin-Model/dp/B01MZBHCX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502504247&sr=8-1&keywords=ms+05+zaku

They also had a fucking amazing selection of paints and weathering kits, so I picked up a tamiya weather master C for $11, which is just $3 more than amazon's list price and a fine tip gundam marker for panel lining and a can of model master lacquer overcoat, at the recommendation of the shop owner. He said I'd want to apply that before doing the weathering effects. Also picked up a HGUC 1/44 scale model stand for $8 as well.

Overall, I think it was a pretty nice haul, totaling about $55. It seems like this dude is selling basically $3 above amazon's prices on most items, which is fine because in total I've saved a bunch on shipping. I still don't have any runner cutters since I have some in the mail from amazon and didn't get the thin cement glue for the same reason. So I'm going to have nubs and seam lines, but it's my first build so I think it'll be okay.

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>>6477714
And sorry for the noob questions, but since my actual trimmers are in the mail, I've raided some stuff and came up with these three options for trimming. What one would work best for the model?

Also since this is a blue sheet, it's a water slide, right?

>>6477790
>Also since this is a blue sheet, it's a water slide, right?
Since it's a kinda blue green color, plus with it having シ-ル on it (and the fact that they have outlines) has these being normal decals rather then waterslides.

>>6477790
Use whatever you can, but get an x-acto knife or something like that. Cut far away from the piece and use the knife to actually remove the nubs.
This doesn't change once you get your runners, btw.

>>6477796
*cutters, not runners

>>6477790
Walmart has sprue cutters and x-acto products.

>>6477796
Also if you've never used a knife on small plastic stuff before, be careful and aim the blade in such a way that if it slips it either misses your fleshy parts or hits your fingernail
It's inevitable that you're gonna cut yourself but if you take precautions you won't wind up needing stitches

>>6477802
Yeah, look in the craft section under jewelry or floral supplies, they'll have wire cutters that are small enough to work just fine for gunpla.

>>6477804
>>6477790
Oh and also #2, it says right on there that they are stickers

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>>6477804
>It's inevitable that you're gonna cut yourself but if you take precautions you won't wind up needing stitches
every tiem

>>6477796
>>6477799
>>6477802
>>6477804
>>6477808
>>6477827
I've ended up using those big cutters (they're cuticle cutters, I guess) and they're working fine. Since I don't have an exacto knife, I just went to my bathroom and took one of my razor blades (I have a double edge safety razor, not some cheap disposable one) and have been lining it flat on the plastic and then pushing forward on it to cut off any excess stuff. Seems to be working out.

The only trouble I've had so far is that I went to put the head on the body and realized I had forgotten to adjust the mono eye. I went to move the eye slider but it required me to remove the head, and instead of the head popping off, the whole neck piece did. So I basically had to disassemble the body to get the neck back in. I didn't want to risk breaking the internal plastic, even though the ball joint on the neck is made of a soft rubber.

>>6477949
Okay so here's a question. It says to assemble a part later, but never tells me WHEN it needs to be added. Does it just mean put the piece on last? Basically it's just the little belt piece on the skirt.

>>6478029
pic of instructions?

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>>6478030
Here.

And just to be clear, the final assembily instructions already have the piece on, and it's never shown to be put in any place else/

>>6478034
It means to place the skirt parts into the openings in A1 before you put A1 in it's place, cause you can't put those parts in afterwards

>>6478042
>>6478034
Wait no you put the skirt parts into the hip before putting A1 in whoops

>>6478042
okay thanks

>>6478034
Yeah, just put it on now or whenever. It just wants you to put in the skirt flaps before you put that piece on, because that piece makes sure the skirt flaps don't fall off.

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Okay this is as far as I'm getting tonight. Haven't panel lined it, and there are only a few stickers on it, but it's done. Seams and the places where the nubs were cut are pretty noticable, but I think it's fine for a first build.

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>>6477701

Oh, I have plenty of kits to practice on, as well. I just can't be fucked to actually spend the time.

There are plenty of cheap kits that make good practice material. I was working on this hi-mock, for example.

>>6478034
are you serious? can you not follow basic instructions?

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>>6478179
Can't spend the time, don't do the crime. Practice is important.

Perfect practice is best.

>>6478211

You're absolutely right. And I'll get back on the airbrushing horse eventually.

For now I'm sticking to the no-paint crime. >>6476556

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What are some female looking model kits? Nothing like Frame Arms Girls, I love those too but I'm looking for actual mechs or robots that look feminine

>>6478252

PG anatomically correct Nobell Gundam when?

>>6478252
G-Portent from GBFT maybe, aside from the Nobel Gundam, of course.

>>6478252
kotobukiyas PSO Racaseal kits?

>>6478252
gn archer

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>>6478265
These are perfect, anywhere specific to buy them from, they don't seem to be on hlj and I'm not sure where else to look

>>6478271
stalk mandarake.
I've got 4 different ones for under 1500 yen each.
There are also the fei yen kits by hasagawa.

>>6478271
theres a yellowboze ver on mandarake for 2500 yen atm.
or the pink one you pictured for $33 before shipping here-
http://plamoya.com/en/racaseal-eleanor-verapsy-plastic-model-1per12-p-27444.html

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At otakon's gbwc. Here's what's been dropped off. Any you guys want to see closer?

>>6477478
What kit is that on the left? HGUC Gundam? It looks damn good with all that panel lining, is that OOB or did you do something to it?

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>>6478387

Questions on paint:

1. Since Tamiya acrylics can be thinned with lacquer thinner, and the result is a sandable finish, does it also mean this lacquer-ified paint layer can take actual lacquer paint layers on top of it?

2. If I have a metallic paint layer and I want a more muted metallic effect on the color layer on top, can it be done by spraying a normal paint layer instead of clear? Or would that completely cover up the underlying metallic effect?

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I wanted to buy the G gundam No grades to go along with my MG God and Shining gundam, but it turns out bandai literally just stopped giving a fuck after making half the shuffle alliance

;_; i'm split on whether i should buy them and have to deal with a forever unfinished collection or just keep holding on to the smallest hope that we might get re/100s someday

Hey guys, forgive this probably dumb questions but what does it mean when an item is in "restock"?

I was going to buy the Frame Arms Ray Falx from Hobbylink Japan but it says it's "August Restock".

>>6478641
It means it's an August restock.

>>6478644

yeah but I guess I'm very new to buying Gunpla online, or anything that is restock, but does that mean I'll still get it in the normal time? Or does that mean in August sometime they will be in stock again so it could be a few days/weeks before it ships?

>>6478641
It means its a preorder. Usually the actual restock happens right at the end of the month, in the last week or sometimes even the last day.

>>6478647
thank you very much

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GundamPlanet haul, plus a Univeral Unit Alex and a babby Dom toy.

>>6478391
Panel lined G30th Gundam, from Gunpla Starter Set 2. Like the RG and 3.0 it's based off of the 1/1 statue, but since it's an HG it makes up for the lack of color separation with a fuckton of panel lines.

posting from other thread but
>Order cutecube TR-6 woundwort from Taobao
>G17 Piece is fucked due to incorrect molding
>No replacement runner and Taobao seller doesnt want to deal with it.

Just wondering does anons here have the kit with an extra G-Runner? I want to buy your extra G18 Piece

If I topcoat my model, can I pose it after or should I topcoat it in the pose I want it in?

>>6479046
no, it's safe to handle and pose once the top coat is fully dried

File: Otakon GBW 2017.jpg (3MB, 3224x2263px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6478387
>>6478402
And here's all the entries, top row are the prize winners and top left won the grand prize. And if you find the choice of winners odd a lot of us at the contest were also stunned by it (And now that it's had time to sink in I'm outright butthurt). We all asked how the judges scored the kits (Tried to be polite about it) and apparently the guest judge from Sunrise (Not Bandai) doesn't know dick about modeling and is on a tight schedule. He looked at each kit for about 5 seconds each and then gave high scores to whatever he thought looked coolest regardless of quality, which heavily skewed the results. Even the booth staff seemed annoyed about what happened. A kit with a fingerprint smudged into it should not be winning any prizes in a modeling contest.

>>6479144
Top left is cool but that GM Sniper diorama is really damn nice, and probably my favorite.

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>>6479148
Yeah, it was pretty cool. He even did little friction marks on the top of the rock to make it look like he was being shot at.

>>6479144
>top left won
wat a load of bullshit, the barbatos, god gundam and astaroth seem much better

>>6479153
The barbatos waaaaaaaay overdid the weathering. And the mace's handle wrap looked really bad and unnatural in person.

I thought for sure the Astaroth was going to win. He put a crazy amount of detail into the base and even modded the mobile worker to have an open hatch and a little soldier in it on top of a nicely done kit. Got the chance to talk to him to and he seems like a real nice guy who knows his stuff.

The god gundam is really cool though. Apparently it's MG God gundam armor modded onto a Freedom 2.0 frame (I think that's what he said it was). He had to do a lot of modifying on the armor with putty and plate to get the proportions right and the modded parts are clean as fuck and you can't even tell they weren't supposed to be shaped like that.

>>6479153
are you really surprised that it won, though?

>>6479144
>Kits that make obvious references to copyrighted material outside of gundam are supposed to be disqualified.
>The grand prize winner is one big obvious Monster Hunter reference.

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Also, I didn't realize it before but Bluefin was selling some old P-Bandai stuff. And a booth actually had a Kagutsuchi for not a bad price.

>>6476405
>that helmet
Look ugly as hell

>>6479205
How much for that FA? i can't find him anywhere other than mandarake

>>6479222
Got him for $55 from a booth that has the most mixed bag of prices I've ever seen. Not bad considering it's usually around $45-$55 before shipping and sold out almost everywhere.

Anyone with experience with colrax super clean? Would I just throw the parts into a ziploc and spray into the bag? Trying to remove paint.

So ive been looking at the newest HG Zeta gundam and finally bit the bullet, did i do good? or did i just fuck up (ordered it on amazon as im on a small landlocked island with no model kit stores nearby) i only paid about 18 bucks for it

Who's that one japanese dude who posts crazy customizations on his blog?

>>6479313
hobby no toriko?

The new MDs come with POM hip joints, right? Has anyone managed to break those under reasonable circumstances?

>>6479349
MD? POM is strong but it's not like metal or anything, you can still break or permanently deform it in your hands

>>6479356
>MD?
Megami Device. And I'm not asking if it's unbreakable, I'm asking if changing the material made them less unreasonably prone to breakage while posing and the like. That's why the "reasonable circumstances" bit was there.

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>>6479360
>unreasonably prone to breakage while posing
Of all the things I broke on my MD1 (due to my own stupidity), hip joint wasn't one of them and I posed her a fair bit during the build.

Of course you can break anything if you put your mind to it but hip joints breaking on their own is a meme.

>>6479356
>permanently deform it
They are definitely stronger than ABS but they are also more brittle, it won't deform much and just snap without warning if you hamhand it

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Okay so for whatever reason, the tamiya weatherings show up really fucking shiny whenever I take a pic of this. But I finished this up. It looks a lot better when the camera doesn't make it look like shit. I know the pic sucks, but I'm pretty happy with the result in person.

How bad is Testors Model Master Acrylic?

And when is the soonest can I start laying down paint after spraying lacquer primer on a surface?

>>6479415
I don't know much about the Tamiya weathering kits, but I do know you're almost certainly making things worse by using flash. If there are any reflective particles in that powder (I suspect there are), you are firing a super-bright LED at them, of course they're going to sparkle. Try taking this photo tomorrow without flash, using daylight or non-direct lamp lighting instead.

>>6479420
BEEFY. How's the kit?

>>6479324
It was ngtfactory

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>>6479473
you know how sometimes, some things just leave you speechless?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Tgp_qnQ-5c

>>6479497
>Your Gendum can do that
>Meanwhile I'm tactically applying glue to make my Liger transformable without exploding
Huh. makes me want to build my HG Seven Swords.

>>6479470
Yeah I was going to do that. I just didn't get one in time and trying to take it without flash in my house just ends up making everything blurry and awful.

>>6479497
So

How do you get the beam saber out?

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>>6479515
by pulling it out

>>6479497

Is this the DM exia dash kit? theres so many conversion kits for the MG exia its getting confusing.

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Some thoughts on this thing
>nice, tight joints that hold poses well
>probably the oddest shoulder assembly I've ever seen on a Feddie suit
>since the runners only come in blue, dark blue, and grey, all of the white parts are stickers
>only hands are the two-piece (fingers + cover) assembly hands, like is common on non-UC HGs
>jeez, I'd forgotten how easily dark blue plastic stresses

>>6479567
I think it's the Exia Avalanche, but probably the DM one.

File: 20170813_191905.jpg (587KB, 1080x1920px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6479567
Dragon Momoko Avalanche Exia Dash, yes.

You should get it, it's fucking amazing.

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I've been kind of out of the gunpla loop for the last few months. The last time I was really up to date was on all of the kits that are coming out right now like the BD-1, the BF stuff, Super We-Want-The-FAG-Money line etc.

Has anything been announced in the last month or so?

>>6479636

nice. I think I will. My plan was to get a legit bandai MG exia, the FPM avalanche parts and the resin Dash parts but this kit seems to make it a lot simpler.

>>6479637
The only announcements have been pretty much all P-Bandai. For regular releases there's a Lightning Black Warrior (based on the Amazing Red Warrior), and for Origin there's the Local Type Gundam (North American specs, based on the earlier Origin Local Type Gundam), and finally a grunt green Origin Zaku.

P-Bandai kits include
-MG GM Command (Space type)
-MG Hazel
-MG Sandrock EW
-HGBF Accelerate GN-X
-HGBF Amazing Z'gok
-HGUC Waveshooter Zeta (based on the Accelerate Evolution Zeta)
-HGUC Pale Rider (Space Type; there's also a rerelease of the Ground Type)

There should be a new expo coming up within the next few months though, so there should be more announcements. I'm hoping for some info on next year's MGs.

>>6479643
I personally like the way the FPM looks more but it's such a pain in the ass. Everything keeps falling off, lol.

Plus it doesnt have the Dash parts.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXsAsOHhzwE

>>6479645
Thanks. I felt like I was missing something somehow since I'd see a new P-Bandai kit get announced every other week but no new regular releases.

>>6479650

is the LED included?

>>6479144
GM Space Command got robbed

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>>6477263
>>6477463
I suppose that's why Photoshop exists

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>>6479769
KISAMAAAAAAAAAA

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>>6479775
>>6479769
You got that right!

>>6479424
Not too bad, just thin it a tad (official is 3:1 paint:thinner for airbrushing, maybe less thinner for hand brushing).
Lacquers cure in, what, an hour or two? Pretty soon compared to everything.

>>6479497
thisisbullshit.png

>>6479636
This looks so cool. I might get it after I watch 00.

Can anyone link me where to buy the Astray Out Frame? I can't find it on DM's store. (And if anyone has OOB pics, that'd be appreciated.

Apart from washes, what kind of weathering can you do to inner frames that are already painted in a metallic color?

New thread: >>6480269

Im new, so forgive any dumb questions. Any chance the OZ Leo getting restocked or do i have to do this kitbash to make it?