/smg/ - Scale Model General

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So I have this old, broken, wooden ~1:35 Douglas Dakota model... I am mainly interested in Busou Shinkis/FAGs (~1:12 scale), so I want to use this model to build a sort of diorama, but I don't have nice ideas and the different scales seems a real problem. Suggestions?

>>6364929
that's such a terrible idea. go sell your dc3 on ebay to some restorer.
go find something appropriate to do with your gundam shit.

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Finished the bordering and added a light oil wash. Might be done.

>>6364929
>>6364933
Agreed with this guy. Terrible idea and I doubt you have the skill to pull off anything interesting. Sell it to someone who won't dedtroy it more.

>>6364929
You could honestly buy some 1:12th accessories for your ??figurines?? With the money you can make by selling it. 1:12th accessories are really cheap.

>>6364933
>gundam shit
You sound grumpy old man, sounds like it's time for some meds and a nap.

>>6364864
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNF5sic8WHo

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>>6364787
>The Aoshima mold is pretty new (2012-ish)

Assuming I scalemate correctly Aoshima has only made Nagato so far with their 2012 tooling, for Mutsu it'll be the 1999 one.

hah! my ae86 is featured!

thanks op

>>6364944
damn, anon
nice work

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almost ready to start painting my slav truck, here's what I was planning on doing:
Since I lost one of the tow hooks because I have the finesse of an ogre, I have to make due with one, my plan was to add some "emergency rope" hanging from the tow hook, and some chain as a second foot hold.
move the license plate to the center of the front bumper, add some light grey/white hazard stripes at the ends of the bumpers.
Some red stars (because spintires), one of the doors will be obviously the wrong colour, and some sun damage on the top parts of the truck.
The theme I want with this truck is, it's seen some shit, every panel should have it's own story to tell.

I need some help tho, because I have no idea what to use as the "rope" or foot hold, any of you have any ideas on what I should use?

>>6365032
Use hemp thread for scale rope.

>>6364676
Painted, gloss varnish for decals, mat varnish, filter, wash

>>6364893
See this? The white pertions can only be achieved properly with white primer as explained here: >>6365155

>>6365152
>mat varnish, filter, wash
everyone says you should washes after gloss coat. then matt

>>6365157
I had no problems

>>6365158
obviously. the theory is the gloss helps the washes run into the crevices, and not grip to the open surfaces.

>>6365032
>foot hold

what should it look like? if u have a pic of what youre trying to emulate may help

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Should I fill in the triangle section or leave it open? The headlights will be replaced with brake lights because this is a dually flare for my kit bash 55 Chevy pickup and a 70s Freightliner. Cummins powered and a tow rig.

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>>6365167
I'm basing the
>it's seen some shit, every panel should have it's own story to tell.
theme from this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EGhKaT0eOc

Here's a screenshot from where I got the idea.

>>6365215
Use a small piece of chain you goof

>>6365217
Where do I get 1/72 scale chains

>>6365222
Go to Michaels

>>6365157
there's always variations to this
I've personally do the paint, gloss, decal, matt and then paneling and washes without issues

>too much armor
Only one who posts something different than the box stock models on here

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Saw the mailwoman from the car with two boxes just when I was arriving home, that was close. Also what a strange hour to make deliveries but fine by me I guess.
Char 2C from meng as my first kit from them, looks pretty comfy and odd so it's going to be a nice build. If anyone wants to ask something from the kit ya know, but it's not a rare one and there's some reviews online and builds.
And a mysterious box...
>>6365155
>>6365156
Then prime grey with something better or build the color up as I said. Unless you're trying new stuff and don't mind fucking up and having to solve problems better stick to what you know and leave new stuff for another occasion.
What are you building anyway? A bike?
Unless you're going for chrome somehow or neon bright colors I doubt that
>can only be achieved properly with white primer
And this come form someone who primed black to do pearl white on a warhammer mini and ended looking like the color of a car
>>6364944
That flesh is on point dude. It might be the light or the tone you're after but some "life" (subtle pink on cheeks and nose, like almost barely noticeable but giving that alive look).
Looking forward to see the final result of the fig
>>6365188
What's supposed to be? I there's an engine behind the triangle the mesh/hole would make sense. If not just let your aesthetics guide you.
Personally unless you're going for a "skull" like front I would fill it.

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>>6365284
And the contents of the white box. More of /smg/ all time favorites!

>>6365284
>meng
>char 2c

That is going to be hard as fuck.

>>6365291
Is it? I've been ogling the sprues right now and the track assembly with all those wheels looks like a pita but nothing more

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>>6365284
Going to be dually flares for a 55 Chevy pick up. The "head lights" will be facing the rear and filled with red transparent styrene.
>pic related

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>>6365318
Well, unless you want a pair of skulls or do a nice grill like pic related front grill or the one (similar) of the type D I would fill it. But probably you should just go with whatever you like.

>>6365318
This gets more and more terrible every time you post it.

>>6365293
I only did the meng ft17 and it was difficult to build. Really the only kit I've ever had problems with. That was full interior and it was about 350 parts in a 4 inch vehicle

>>6365284
>>6364944
Been staring at the pic all day while at work and I think its a little too orange. Im going to trush some pinks but at this point i'm scared any change will ruin it

>>6365215
>>6365032
>>6365078
ural day 3, pretty much done with pre-painting steps.
kit bashed a bit of 40k rope with the foot hold, and found a bit of plastic rope for the "emergency rope".

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>>6365379
forgot pic

>>6365339
Good thing it's a work in progress and not finished yet! :D

>>6365336
That's a good idea, bridal veil makes for a good grille

>>6364981
I have the Aoshima Nagato kit, and I can take pictures of the kit in some detail if you'd like, I have it almost done aside from whatever PE rails I intend to add, and painting. It has a few places I wish it was better made, but overall I think the kit is nice. I'd get some aftermarket AA guns, though. The 128 DP guns aren't bad, but all the 25mms are really, really lacking in detail.

>>6364787
That was very informative. Thanks a lot, anon!

Anyone from charlotte NC? Moving there soon and looking for hobby shops. Google is less than helpful

>>6364981
Yeah, I was basing this off of the Nagato retake. I figured they had also reissued the Mutsu at the same time, but if not then Fujimi is definitely the way to go, since Aoshima's late 90s/mid 2000s stuff is generally meh.

Posting again: is there a ratio for Mr thinner plus Mr retarder that would create Mr leveling thinner?

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What is the best (and cheap) IJN Destyroyer?
I'm looking for something quick and simple to work on a weekend (more or less), so accuracy to the real thing is a must too.

Pic unrelated.

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Got the major parts pinned in place, and face/cowl painted. Loving this build so far


>>6366228
Best, cheap, quick and simple don't really go together.

>>6366442
Looks good my dude. Also looks way bigger than 1/8. I notice a decent gap around the shoulders, are you gonna fix that?

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Update! I had to brush paint the windows and bubbles started forming out of nowhere, god damn this is gonna be terrible

>>6366536
This might call for "just cleaned up Tokyo after a 9.8" weathering...

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With this I'm set up forever, no more shopping until I run out of shit. I'll base coat the flesh with acrylics and work then with oils in the figs to try something new. About the price of the set I bought it for 20€ with 6 oil tubes so pretty cheap compared to buying separate colors depending of the oil quality. Main advantage (for me) is that the colors are "chosen" and pretty diverse so it covers all skins without having to think much and searching catalogs of colors.
The book was pretty disappointing, not questioning the quality of the models and the skill of the featured modelers but they don't know how to transmit that knowledge. Feels more like a gallery rather than a technique book. Mig and the guys of the weathering magazine or the tankart books really know how to show the steps and teaching.
Kinda sad as I had high expectations, I wouldn't recommend it much unless you have 24€ to spare really or just wan to watch some nice builds.
I can post pics if someone is interested (text in spanish but it doesn't say much anyway)
>>6366442
Looking good, what color do you have in mind for the pinwash of the helmet?
>>6366536
>Appeared bubbles
H-how? Also that looks like shit, I would sand it off and start again. Go from medium to high grit and finish polishing or using something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYDHHRApV_c

>>6366591
>Mastering Oils

I feel like there should be a small sticker at the back labelled "Half a century of practice not included". But perhaps that's just me putting a lot of value onto "mastering".

>>6366442
That's a big guy

>>6366591
>>6366620
If you're scared of using oils, you can use watercolor pencils and blend them around like what the Gunpla/FAG generals people are doing now.

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>>6366536

>>6366636
4 u

>>6366620
Yeah, that too but for me the downer is how their experience is transited. I mean there's a lot of incredibly good modelers that have both techniques and ideas worthy of a book but they just can't transmit it and ends rather meh, then there's some guys that not only they are incredible but also know how to show it to others and you end learning a ton (Wilder, Mig, Paine, Oishi, etc) and that's what I expect from a book called "mastering whatever".
The design and layout is excellent and workup the hype but once you get to really reading it and observing the steps I feel that a lot is poorly explained and documented. Not a bad book but it doesn't lives up to the "mastering oils" fanfare.
Heck I learned more watching an advertisement for oilbrushers than reading this.
>>6366638
Not scared, just had high expectations to up my oil game and ended with something rather basic or not very well explained. Never though of using that tho but desu I would just use acrylics that I already have and know how to use, but for people that don't want to use regular paints that might be a nice set up

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>So i got some 1/35 armored fight suit

I am think having it in white with a black primer under it.

Would /toy/ recommend it?

In my past experience, white over grey primer always give me this really off white.

>>6366638
Already using oils for this and that, but truly mastering anything really is a life's work at best IMO.

>>6366656
Definitey try black primer. Itll give you cool shadow effects

>>6366695
>white suit
>black primer

Do you enjoy suffering?

>>6366656
It's an off white because the grey shines through.

Guess what'll happen with a black primer.

>>6366708
>>6366702
You just have to build up the white

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First stage of chipping done

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Anyone into satellites/rockets plamo? Where do you hunt for reference material?

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>>6366839
Done with phase 2. Need more practice at chipping.

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>>6366946

>>6366839
I like the white/basecoat mix you used

>>6366639
Tell me about it, I'm thinking of binning it, it's just killed my motivation.

>>6367048
What kit is that piece of shit from? Are you the chain step idiot?

>>6366946
>>6366947
What is this, and why does it say Pueblo on the sides? Looks good by the way.

>>6367151
Stridsvagn M/40L by IBG Models in 1/72. This one is from the Dominican civil war

>>6364929
I don't know about the collectibility of the plane but if it is, maybe you can sell it like the others suggested.

If you really want to do a diorama, maybe a "shadow box" style diorama with a forced perspective would work?

>>6365222
>>6365234
or a bead shop

>>6366536
What kit is that and what kind of paint are you using? I find it kind of strange that it would bubble up like that.

>>6366656
If you want a clean white, I don't recommend using black primer. If you have good atomization with spray, you can use black or gray along with white to do directional pre-shading.

I haven't posted my Ma.K pilot in a bit. Been busy but I made some tweaks to the head. Found using just oils to be a pain in the ass for certain effects while keeping a smooth surface to. Basically getting skin tones with an even blend. Probably lay in the base skin tone with acrylic and then tint with water mixable oils.

Anyway, please do post pics and progress.

>>6366890
I'd be interested in getting at least one satellite kit at some point but I should whittle down my kit stash a little (or at least try) before I start branching off. Generally my source for any of that sort of stuff is just image searching on the internet.

>>6366890
I'd like to try it, but I don't know any good kits and bigger ones like 1/72 Shuttles are pretty too expensive for little interest I have compared to other subjects. For example I could buy a 1/35 kit from Meng or Trumpeter for that price and they'll have PE and won't require much scratchbuilding to make them look good.

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Well i went with the clear plastic version for the custom color job.

The set comes in brown, green, clear and pink. But you cany really see the detail with tje clear version

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This is after mr finishing surface black 1500.

I'm going to wait for it dry a while before spray some white. But it started to rain so i am not that is possible today.

Here >>6366890

>>6367407
>>6367343
I just bought the Hayabusa spacecraft from this line
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/search?typ1_c=102&cat=plamo&target=Series&searchkey=Spacecraft
By the images of the runners they all look like simple but interesting kits.
The issue, for me at least, is finding good reference material (dimensions, plans, photo books) given that all that is Japanese tech.

>>6367578
Have you checked JAXA's sites?

http://global.jaxa.jp/projects/sat/muses_c/

http://www.isas.jaxa.jp/en/missions/spacecraft/past/hayabusa.html

They don't give dimensions, unfortunately, but there are a few pictures. There's also a half scale model that may or may not be useful at a museum. You'll need to look it up but there might be a few pictures of it online. If you really need dimensions, you might be able to write JAXA and ask if they're willing to provide exterior dimensions. Who knows, they might be nice enough to send it to you.

>>6367489
>you cany really see the detail with tje clear version
Is the clear version not the same kit but with clear plastic instead? I could maybe see a bonus if there are areas you might need to mask off for a transparent effect (like a lens)

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>>6367489
You fool, you can do all kinds of cool shit with clear models. You can dye them or paint them with clear paints. You can panel line wash them so there's a visible "skeleton" of lines running through the clear. You can even paint half of them realistically and blend it into the clear like they're exiting cloaking or some shit.

>>6367591
>Have you checked JAXA's sites?
I was browsing it yesterday. There are a lot of interesting papers, but they focus mostly on the mission of the spacecraft (interesting stuff nonetheless).

>If you really need dimensions, you might be able to write JAXA and ask if they're willing to provide exterior dimensions. Who knows, they might be nice enough to send it to you.
I was thinking I might ask for advice some astrophysics prof at my University.
Who knows, maybe some of them worked on this stuff.

>>6367600
A little bit of a departure from Ma.K., but not much of a stretch. Still the entire model was primed, which defeats the point of selecting a clear kit. Which brings me back to the statement about seeing the detail with the clear version -and my question about the choice.

>>6367327
It's a 1/35 ASTACO NEO by hasegawa, and for this next part, try not to cringe too much, but it's brush painted Tamiya paint.
>>6367084
Chain step? I don't think so, I'm upside down Anon, the one who's pictures are always sideways, without fault!

>>6367785
Oh. I like upside down anon. But you done fucked up

Alright, laugh at me. I got a fuck up probably unseen till now.

What has a square bottle, green lid and is not my decal setting solution?

This is what I get for being so focused on the decal and not cleaning my work space.

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Done with tracks and wheels I guess, I don't know what else do to them as the ref pic shows sand and that`s it and dry desert doesn't have much variety also but it looks too plain.
Also I didn't remember to ask in >>6366591 but how's mr cement S compared to tamiya extra thin? lhs where I buy my shit will not carry tamiya extra thin for the time being and they had this one instead. I guess they are pretty similar but tamiya is goat and wouldn't like to fuck around glue related.
>>6367600
Not sure about the pink but the effect is really awesome with the bright line to show the change. >>6367489 anon should have tried something like that for cool points
I have a helghast sniper fig that came with some killzone special edition that is painted mid cloaking and adding that shinny effect would make it better, might try it some day as I don't know any regular kit that comes with a transparent body to do that.
>>6367865
Pretty exotic mistake lad, if you have pics I would like to see the carnage but I respect your decision to maintain your anonymity and don't be forever remembered for this

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>>6367893
And the ref pic I'm using more or less

>>6367865
Tamiya extra thin?

>>6367917
Yeah
>>6367893
Don't have any ATM, thankfully this was the first decal I ever did so I picked a small one though.

>>6367865
Oh dear.

>>6367893
>tamiya is goat
mr s is superior, theres a youtube vid comparing them.

>>6368036
>theres a youtube vid comparing them.
This?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

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Decided to try something different with a 1/200 Hasegawa 747. These windows are going to be a pain. I wish they had just molded window lines or maybe slight indentations.

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started painting my slav truck, surprised at how good tamiya paints are you can almost use them straight out of the pot. Need to fix up a few mistakes here and there, but this is fun so far.

Does lacquer solvent eat CA glue/baking soda filler? Just being cautious here...

Can Vallejo paints cure to a harder finish by adding X-20A or Tamiya Flat Clear to them? Or will the not mix/turn into a gooey rubbery mess? in b4 add Future instead

As a noob returning to the hobby for the first time in 25 years, can y'all recommend a good fighter jet kit for a beginner? I'm planning on starting with 1-2 W40k models to get my build skills back up to speed, but could use a rec. for what to build next.

>>6368281
Also, my apologies, I made a similar post a week or so ago, but didn't get any specific kit recs.

>>6368281
I've heard Tamiya's 1/72 F16 is a really good kit.

>>6368294
Thanks!

>>6368281
like the guy said: tamiya and hasegawa
I personaly like the new zvezda kits a lot: https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?q=*&fkSECTION[]=Kits&fkGROUPS[]="Aircraft"&fkTYPENAME[]="Full%20kits"&fkCOMPNAME[]="Zvezda"&fkORIGIN[]="1"&fkYEAR[]="2017"&fkYEAR[]="2015"&fkYEAR[]="2016"&fkCATNAME[]="Jets"

>>6367785
I hope that's the inside of the door.. Otherwise, you should be able to clean it up okay and redo. I have no idea what happened with the paint, never seen Tamiya do that before.

>>6367893
Grind up some pencil graphite and rub it on some corners.

I enjoy making tanks and I only preshade. No other kinds of weathering. How bad of a builder am I?

>>6368685
Post pics

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>>6368753
I don't have any pics on me but they look similar to this as they have no weathering.

>>6368127
Never understood how boring someone has to be to build civil aircraft models

>>6368685
I guess company stock image tier. Weathering is a personal decision as much as painting it x or y way, but a wash never hurts

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Until I my Maus book arrives and I have a better idea of the turret interior, I'm sorting out the hull. But the chassis needs to be finished and tracks assembled before the hull enclosed it.

Next steps are some light wear on the edges of the wheels, and then some Mig pigments on the running gear for light mud, and the chassis can be assembled. The workable tracks are superb. Once assembled they're as easy to paint and put on as rubber tracks, but look the quality of separate link if not better. If all kits are all of similar quality, I'm won over by them.

>>6368909
I wouldn't mind building a couple to fit into my collection. They can be nice to have for scale reference in a display.

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Hey anons, I've got a Tamiya 1/35 Merkava Mk1 that I want to build soon, are there any innacurate details about the kit I should know beforehand to try and fix, or will building it as the instructions say yield an accurate early Merkava?


Also I kinda want to get their 1/35 Leopard 1 or Panther soon, are those kits good?

>>6367797
thanks! and yeah I know, I'm not sure if it's salvageable however, the cabin breaks apart any time I try to put in that piece of glass, which I think is a result of the paint being too thick, and i'm not trimming anything down because this kit has been way too much effort for me to try to correct my fuck ups, so i'm probably gonna bin it. I apologize to anyone who might've wanted to see it, if anyone wanted to see it, but it's taken it's toll on me.

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>>6369406
So on to the next one! My grandparents went and visited England, and they came back with this, scalemates states that the most recent tooling was from initial release... in 1977. They told me that they asked the shop owner for "something british that you couldn't get in the States." Fucking dick sold them this, and for 35 quids. Anyways lets see what I can shit out here!

>>6369310
I got one of them jew tanks from a thrift shop, I think it's a 1/35 hobby boss. $6!

Should make for good kitbashing.

>>6369310
How accurate do you want to be? There's always room for improvement. You can check online for model reviews and build logs that mention inaccuracies and fixes. Also, look for visual references. The only thing I remember when I did mine was adding a squarish exhaust on the side of the hull and some antennae. That was ages ago though.

Asking again about this question here >>6368271

Thanks

>>6369443
Tfw you never find models at goodwill :(

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Threw down the base coat after a quick weekend away. Normally I would highlight/low light but considering its a large scale it generates its own shadows naturally. I'll have to think on what I want to do

Does anyone else have a collection of garage kits that you feel you aren't good enough for yet? I'm starting to wonder if I'll ever feel ready to paint my favorites.

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>>6369442
At least it's in a sane scale.

>>6369663
I think you`ll know when youre good enough.
don't want to fuck em up if theyre hard to get

>>6369752
Yeah, that was a pleasant surprise when I got it, never built a 1/72 boat before

how do you guys make dirty/scratched windows on your models?

>>6369583
I would shade it anyway. It adds depth especially in low light conditions.

>>6370111
I'm with this guys. Shade it, just make it a bit more subtle.

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Finished the tiran-5 as dust is rather easy and plain, I'm going to put the included tankers to add something interesting to a rather monotone build.

>it's important to highlight the most prominent and relevant figures of the sculpt when doing the highlights
Aye aye captain

>>6369542
I have no idea about CA+soda with lacquer but wouldn't have primer/paint/varnish on top anyway? I suppose it will resist it as it resists white spirits but try it if you need to be sure.
Don't add X20A to acrylics as it turns them goo, tamiya """""acrylics""""" are alcohol based so the resins and additives are different and react different than the ones that vallejo (or ammo or ak or gw or whatever) uses.
Tamiya varnish I'm not sure how would interact in a mix with vallejo as I have never seen someone used premixed, just add it later like normal people.
If you want a hard (physically speaking) coat use glosyy varnishes as they are harder, then put another layer of matt to kill the shine. But a regular matt or satin layer should be enough anyway so what the fuck are you doing that want such weird ass combinations?
>>6370097
What kind of dirt? If it's just dust mask the window wipers arc and airbrush a faint dust layer

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>>6370150
>>6370111
Roger that. I did some preliminary shading on some backpacks and its a little too contrasty so I'll try to find a happy medium. Of course, the contrast in pic related will look better after a matte varnish so it might be ok as is

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https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1080827-very-fire-technology-700902-uss-montana-bb-67

New USS Montana kit.

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>>6370239
>instead of moshe Dayan jr & jr jr I have shlomo Goldstein & whitefaced scaredy jamal

Gotta work faces better next time, now to blend everything and see how it ends

>>6370386
What the fuck is that guy on the left

>>6370395
My albino negro

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>>6366947nt
This week on the new episode of I don't know what the fuck I'm doing...

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>>6370478
I always have trouble at the weathering stage. Don't have much experience.

>>6368846
It means you are good at building toy like models.

>>6370481
You did well on the chipping, but this white stuff, yeah. Can't tell you what went wrong, but it ain't quite right.

>>6370594
It's supposed to be dust or something. I used AK's rain marks for NATO vehicles. It's sort of light grey IRL. The tanks saw combat in the city so I'd like it to look like they it was dusty from the rubble or something. I dunno. I'll see what I can do about that.

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>>6370604
Pigments are not quite dry yet. I should get more in the future. Has anyone tried some white pigments from Ammo or whatever. Do they look like snow or should I use something else? Like soda fixed with pigment fixer? I have a few winter white wash vehicles I want to do. One of them is a Trumpeter KV-2. Bonus points if anyone remembers that one.

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Painted the hatches interior as I didn't plan to add the crew. When I get a better photo set up I'll do the final shots. The crew ended pretty decent, tomorrow when the glazes are dry will post pics.
>>6370612
In the first pic all seemed nice but in the rest I don't know what you're trying to do with the gray. If you want to use the rain marks enamel as dusting (officially are to make vertical rain marks but you can use them in other ways of course) first wet the surfaces with thinner and then apply it kinda like a wash, then work with thinner what you don't like. Combine it with some other buff/grey/brown dust (pigments or enamel) to give more interest and variety (unlike mine but hey the negev desert is pretty boring it seems).
Also try to use both enamels and pigments to dust as both have their use.
Keep it up man, the little thing can be awesome when finished if you don't fuck it up.

>>6370651
Holy shit

>>6370672
In a good or bad way?

>>6370502
Thanks.

>>6370651
I dont understand how you can be so good at painting tanks and so shit at painting figs.

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>>6370683
Dunno, in my defense the only figs I painted where some mistakes (also tamiya crew) years ago and some warhammer minis.
People can say shit but gw minis have much better detail and are easier (for me) to paint with acceptable results (pic related random pic, posted them in other threads) but I can't say that for tamiya. Tomorrow I'll see how my juden look and post them, the unifying glazes should get the skin highlights together

>>6370328
>Very Fire Technology

These new chinese companies have the strangest names.

>>6370707
>more detail
>easier to paint

Thats because the features are exagerrated and don't have to be as realistic

I'm sure everyone is aware but I really hate airvrushing vallejo. It gets tip dry worse than any other brand and it chips if you look at it funny

>>6370757
Honestly, the pros that use vallejo, I want to know their secrets, because every single time I've used it I've gotten shit results. Tamiya absolutely shits all over vallejo and other similar acrylic paints like MIG and AK. Less color variety, yes, but I mix my own colors most of the time regardless.

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hey dudes im very new to this general and only just started to get back into scale modeling with a BMPT 1/35 from Zvezda any tips for a newbie would be appreciated pic related

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>>6370799
I like the look of this tri colour but was unsure of how to get pre shading done w/ the black as a base?

>>6370766
I will say that vallejo brushes on much better than tamiya, of course

>>6370651
Are you gonna keep all that dust? What did you use to make it?
See, I don't have that much weathering stuff. Don't want to make it all dusty/rubble-y(?). We'll see how badly I fuck it up

>>6370799
What tips do you want? Ask questions as they arise not a blanket statement as "hey, guise wat do lol". You already pretty much built the kit and didn't follow the instructions. That's a good sign. Now you can paint the tracks and paints seperately. Whagt paint or weathering products will you be using? Do you have an airbrush?

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Anyone ever use this for topcoat? Can't find many reviews.

>>6371103
Yeah, in fact I should cake it a bit more as in >>6367896 but I'm leaving it like this so it doesn't cover all the details as most of the chipping and color modulation is now lost forever to the dust.
I used what I told you in the other post to do, first enamel dust to make precision work as a pin wash and surfaces where pigments will not get a good grip. Then pigments fixed with white spirits and pigment fixer for the accumulations.
Dust is pretty easy and even more if it's monochrome (which I don't recommend unless you have color evidence of it and want to follow said picture)

>>6370651
I don't think you should have dusted up the MGs so much.Those likely would have seen better care than that.

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What can I use to make some scale grating? Like pic related. Styrene tubes/strips? I cant imagine that would look good

>>6370707
>>6370740

Exactly.

That being said, Tamiyas minis are not really known for their great details anyway and most of their 1/35 miniatures are at least 15 years old, some even twice that old. There are better manufacturers for realistic minis.

>>6371515
You don't. There's specific photo etch and molded aftermarket parts for this.

>>6371527
I need it in a large scale. 1/12 or bigger

>>6371519
speaking of tamiya how are the tamiya 1999 subaru impreza WRC and the Lancer evo V WRC, kits?

>>6371552
how much do you need? whats it for?

>>6370481
maybe you want to read
"the weathering magazine issue 2 - Dust"
if u don't have it I can upload it

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>>6371620

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>>6371515
See pic, use your choice of material

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>>6371614
For my 1/8 cosmonaut. Want to build a base similar to pic related and not sure where to start. Frame is the easy part

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>>6371644
Either use evergreen strips/profiles to make that grill(?), go to a place with a laser cutter and do them yourself in wood/plastic/paper or use foamed pvc. I used foamed pvc sheets to make pic related base and you can either cut it or engrave the surface to make whatever you need, also is pretty light and sturdy.

>>6370757
I've heard some suggest thinning with their airbrush cleaner. If no one else tries it I guess I'll report in whenever I get reason to (starting to get some momentum going with Vasa, so there's mostly brush work in my immediate future), I have all the ingredients lying around at least.

>>6370804
Use a very dark grey for the black to give yourself a bit of shading room. Dunno if pre-shading will work very well here, but I guess there won't be much harm in trying.

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>>6371644
Hmm

>>6371711
in response to this >>6370804 I figured I could try shade after laying down and masking off the first layers of black, maybe just with a darker green ? otherwise ill just try compensate when I'm weathering her after all it is a modern tank it would make sense if it wasn't too beat up

having some issues spraying alclad. Not sure if I had them in the past.

I'm using the gloss black primer on resin. The resin was smooth to the touch, but the primer showed some areas that needed to be filled slightly and sanded. Mostly scratches from lower grit sandpaper. Ok.

After spraying the gloss black the finish is very grainy, even the areas without scratches. I didn't thin the black primer because the instructions say not to. It also went on VERY thin, with really limited coverage. I sprayed at about 15 psi from 2 inches away. Any ideas? Should I thin it and try it again?

Currently wetsanding with 2000 grit paper and filling cracks but that is of course sanding through the primer. I'm worried the next coat will be grainy too

>>6372004
Yeah do it again probably also a third time, and not as mist coats. This time you kind of want to partially overlap each pass?

>>6372045
I think thats the opposite of what I want. While im having coverage issues the main problem is the grainy finish

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I am planning on building a T-80BV, and I wish to paint it in a camo in which each ERA brick is painted independently to archive the overall effect, pic related. Sadly there are very few photos around
Has anyone here done it before or has reference photos of it being used? It would be extremely useful.

>>6371127
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999478-gsi-acrysion-review/

I kid you not, it took me 5.78 seconds to google "mr hobby acysion" and click on the first suitable review (literally the first link).

>>6372246
Hey me too! I just picked up the revell 1:72 version today, want to do a Ukie natty guard version. I've done what you've described before with mixed results, I'll post pics if you're interested. Basically I just did each brick by regular brush.

You can find plenty of examples at http://lostarmour.info/

>>6372869
>revell 1:72
>T-80BV

breh that kit is from like 1985

>>6372902
Yeah it does look pretty rough, but I'd like to try out making my own parts anyway, so hopefully I can end up with a result that looks somewhat decent. If not, oh well.

>>6372904
buy the modelcollect one and save yourself the pain, its much MUCH better

the revell one is not worth the trouble man

>>6372909
rip. thanks for the heads up, it's probably not a bad idea for me to have this as a disposable model, gonna try to use an airbrush on it for the first time.

>>6372246
Most examples of those mismatched ERA bricks are because low-level depots quickly cannibalising from different derelict vehicles. This really only applies to T-64 and T-72 because these vehicles are plentiful and easy to maintain.

There are derelict T-80s around, but nobody want to rebuild them because turbine engine is more trouble than its worth

>>6372917
the modelcollect decals are pretty generic but include Ukrainian insignia, otherwise i would use revell's decals which are better

I've been following the war in ukraine since it started and can't recall a single T-80 in combat, a few were completely refurbished to new (no mismatching ERA) at Kharkov (major depot), but have only really been assigned to parade duties. Modelcollect sells a kit for T-80BVD (T-80BV with Ukrainian diesel engine), IIRC a few of these are in service along with the original turbine version.

Might be fun to try, not many T-80BVD builds around. Good luck!

It looks like you're right, and that I've bamboozled myself into believing something that was wrong a while back. I've followed the war since its beginning too, but unfortunately I've neglected the Ukrainian side.

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Made an effort to create some nonexistent sculpt contrast in the clothes. Worked more the face and added some pimping rayban aviatior glasses. Still not happy with it but I'm just gonna dust it up a bit and leave it be.
His partner ain't so lucky as I'm repainting the whole face but its a mess, I have to draw with the brush his features but I'm not that good so I'm not sure how he's going to look in the end.
>>6372004
Mr surfacer can be sanded so by extension polished. Or strip it and start again if you get so much troubles. A picture would help to see what's exactly wrong too.
>>6371869
For black I would recommend post-shading with oils perhaps (I'm shilling this technique hard and seems it's going to become all the rage this summer so don't get left out m8), something like I did with oils here >>6359233 but with grays.
>>6371510
Yeah you're right, even in the ref pic the MGs look cleaned up (probably due the crew resupplying or whatever they are doing the pic) so I'm going to clean them a bit somehow.
>>6370766
I don't know if I'm a pro but my experience so far is that try to avoid using vallejo for main works with the airbrush and If I do I use the air line. Here it doesn't clog too a lot, but much more than mig or tamiya for example. I thin it with vallejo airbrush thinner and that's it, you could add their retarder if you have a lot of problems.

>>6372004
>It also went on VERY thin, with really limited coverage

It might be that the droplets have largely dried into small lumps before they get any nearby droplet for company, eventing the paint from levelling. Really high gloss coats supposedly take a wet coat to happen.

>>6373123
Looks pretty great actually

>>6373177
Thanks, but still I feel it's not quite there. I suppose its the clash between my (now confirmed) absurd expectations and my actual performance. He looks nice on the turret tho

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>>6370612
This is where I'm at right now. Put everything together to see how it looks like. I will try to do something about the running gear and thay grey.

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>>6373272

>>6373272
I don't think dust could gather like that in the grating at the rear of the engine deck.

>>6371644
• Get strips of wood: Get popsicle sticks, stirring sticks (raid a coffee shop), or buy some thin wood from a hobby shop (Balsa is pretty soft and easy to work with)
• Glue them onto a backing: Paper should be fine for this. If you don't want contact to be permanent, use rubber cement.
• Make and cut out your pattern from paper and glue onto the sticks with rubber cement
• Cut the pattern out with a razor saw, sand edges as needed.

>>6372694
>http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234999478-gsi-acrysion-review/
And I kid you not that has nothing to do with the topcoat product in the line, that's just a review of actual paints.

cab mostly done, everything is primed slowly working my way to getting all the basecoats done.

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>>6373560
forgot something

>>6372869
>Revell 1:72
kek, that's exactly the one I am planning to build, an entry for a contest none less. If you got pics by any means do post them
> http://lostarmour.info/
This is really helpful, thanks.

>>6372902
>>6372904
Is the Revell kit really that bad? Reviews seem to be quite nice on it. My first option was of course ModelCollect but after building both their T-64BV and T-80U I was looking to play it safe without the mess of photo etched and complex parts.

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>>6372944
Indeed, I haven't found any T-80BV with mixed ERA, but true is I was looking for a interesting look rather than a accurate one, I just think it would look cool.

Just out of curiosity, why no T-80 in combat? Is the Grozny shadow that strong?

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Wrong pic, meant to post this one.

Also anyone know how the carpet in >>6373855 could be made?

>>6373852
>Is the Revell kit really that bad?

Yes, it is a very old kit which revell jews constantly rebox to fool people. Only the decals (which are recent reprints) are good.

Modelcollect T-80BV doesn't have as much PE as T-64BV, you can always not use PE until you are more confident handling it, it'll still look much better than the revell kit.

T-80 turbine engine is too expensive to build, maintain or run. It as little to no firepower/armor advantage over T-64/72 (which are much cheaper). Ministry of Defence has always hated the turbine and diesel replacement project was underway when USSR collapsed. People often say grozny demonstrates how bad T-80 is but this is bullshit, T-72 was deployed in less numbers and suffered proportionally similar losses, problem was bad tactics and inadequate training. T-80 was only deployed to chechnya because soviet forces in germany (mostly equipped with T-80) had only finished withdrawing from germany 6 months prior to chechyan conflict so T-80 fleet was still very active.

>>6373956
I'll go with the MC then, thanks.
Yeah, makes no sense for the gas turbine to have anything to do with city fighting performance, but it won't stop people whining about it.

>>6373559
>nothing to do with the topcoat product
>just a review of actual paints
>thinks that the 'topcoat' variant of a clear paint is significantly different from the pigmented versions of the same paint in the same line.
>didnt read the review

He mentioned it was hard and durable, and you'll require a couple of coats if the clear version has pigment densities similar to the orange. He also went into depth on how to thin, how much thinner, what to thin it, what will dissolve the paint and how to clean it from your tools.

I dont understand what more information you need about a singular colour within an entire range paints.

>And I kid you not
go fuck yourself as well you lazy mouth breather

my mrcement is running low and now the brush doesn't reach.

if I take the brush out and put a handle on it, will it go stiff if its not submerged in glue?

>>6374236
shake the bottle with the cap brush on and some should attach itself onto the bristles

>>6373855
explosive rugactive armor

>>6374236
try pulling the brush lower. Maybe it's like a tamiya extra thin brush

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ill contribute my collection
of absolute rarities
most of them custom

>>6374364
>>6374354
>>6374343
Are these models you assembled yourself?

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>>6374365

various friends
some of them are mine

>>6374256
I am shaking, but this usually gets a bit too much on the brush, then everywhere else.
if I rub it on the side of the bottle to get the excess off, a bit too much comes off then there isn't enough glue.

its a fine line getting just the right amount of glue.
>>6374315
I figured that out but I wasn't sure if that was intentional to the design or if I pull it too far it`ll fall off into the glue then be a bitch to get out.
plus its currently extended fully but not touching the glue.


ideally id pull it off and mount it on a bbq skewer.
just wondered what other people were doing.

youre going to get to a point where theres still glue in there but you cant reach it.

cost enough, don't want to waste it.

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R A R E

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>>6374418

CAN U GIVE ME A REASON
WHY CRINGE, IF YOU ARE,
WHEN U CAN CONTRIBUTE

>>6374421
this isn't a thread to post random models, its to post what youre working on.
if we all just posted random model pics the thread would fill up very fast.

its a fucking lawnmower, please fuck off.

>>6374421
Your shit isnt even that good

When I airbrush tamiya flat black, it comes out nice and matte. When I handbrush with thin coats it comes out glossy.

????

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Small teaser. I'm quite unhappy with the loader but fuck it now I know why in books they swap the heads for hornet ones. I suppose that good painters could do better with the base sculpt but meh.

anyone know if anyone makes a 1986 accord? want to relive my first car.

>>6374801
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION%5B%5D=Kits&q=accord

>>6374779
All looks amazing except for the barrel. Thats a little goofy

>>6374779
Dude, good fucking detail where there's less dust on the barrel where it recoils back. Seriously good fucking work.

You guys got any tips for painting hazard stripes?

newfag here, this a good Goodwill find?

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>>6374911
woops

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>>6374913
it's like new, all decals and instructions intact

there was a 300zx as well, but i only wanted this one

>>6374911
>scalemates.com
This site is your friend.

>>6374924
couldn't find that specific model there

>>6374779
How long will it take for a noob like me to get to this skill level?

>>6374177
>>thinks that the 'topcoat' variant of a clear paint is significantly different from the pigmented versions of the same paint in the same line.
Why would I not think that? Mr hobby has several clear top coats for both lacquers and acrylics. Yet, for example, many people even say to thin the GX100 more than you would thin the rest of the same line. Why should I expect this to act the same as the rest of the line?

>I dont understand what more information you need about a singular colour within an entire range paints.

Maybe information about a singular product within that range of paint?

>go fuck yourself as well you lazy mouth breather
Wow you sure convinced me with those hot opinions

>>6374948
looks like a chink knockoff brand so don't expect much then desu

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That is A LOT of PE.
Not sure if want.

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>>6374665
The extra flat finish comes from the tooth formed from the spraying qualities. Fine atomization and dry time before contact with the surface.

>>6374779
Came out pretty nice. thumbsup.avi

>>6374894
Strips of masking tape and spray. If you attempt to hand paint, it's likely to end in horrible flames.

>>6374913
I don't know much of anything about car kits but for 3.99, I'd say it's a good price. I can't tell you about the plastic quality from looking at it but it looks decent.

>>6375006
A quick comparison of the sprues says it's a mold Fujimi used and could very possibly be a domestic boxing. Scalemates is a good resource but it's not complete. It relies on the community to contribute and I've put up several box images and instructions in the past.

-----

My Ting Yuen kit came in today. Slightly crushed. There was a shooting over at the UPS hub the other day, so it was delayed. No biggie.
Pic related

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>>6375263
Yeah, it's a blurry pic. Too lazy to take another one (not for a forum post) but I can if anyone really needs one badly for some reason. It's a 1/700 kit by S-Model
I took some pics of the sprues and parts but won't bother posting those here unless someone's interested.

The kit is a waterline with no lower hull option. Slightly disappointed that the option for a full hull isn't available but I'll live. I also got a wood deck for it since it was cheap -but while I'm on the topic of cost, some things are pretty cheap from taobao but in order to actually save, you need to buy a bunch of crap since shipping across the Big Pond will run you at the minimum about 15USD and will over up to around 2lbs of stuff. I ended up paying twice since the kit itself was on back order for a month.

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>>6375276
I used to undercut case sellers on eBay but it's a slow moving product so I stopped. Anyway, I dug up one of the cases and did a test fit. Going to try to do a water effect but the kit is going to be on a slow burn while I work to finish other shit.

>>6374915
I did another quick check since I was doing some searching of my own. The Fujimi kits seem to be going for around 26 bucks or so online.

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Anyone has tried the E-100 tanks from Model Collect? I am tempted in trying pic related.

>>6374421
Are you rockatansky_yamatomo?

>>6375308
>nazi fantasyshit

rrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

>>6375276
>>6375263
Looks cool

>>6374963
Anyone?

>>6375766
Years, if ever.

>>6375766
depends how much you practice, depends how steady your hands are, depends how much money you want to invest in materials, depends on how well you take in the information you learn, depends on how much you want to challenge yourself to do better.

>>6375824
So should I plan on my first couple dozen kits looking like complete ass?

>>6375933
Not necessarily complete ass, but certainly not as good as what you see on that picture above.

If you follow tutorials and advise you can achieve good results nearly from the start. Just start with something cheap and don't go for those $50+ kits right away.

>>6375934
I ordered a Tamiya 1/72 F-16C.

>>6375946
Have you read all the tutorials in the OP?

>>6375968
Many of them, and I've been watching a shit ton of YouTube videos.

>>6375970
Well, at least the free tutorials.

>>6375946
just take it slow, and don't be dissapointed or frustrated with mistakes, they happen. Keep cool and don't rush yourself

>>6375933
Yes

Is the Zvesda 1/35 King Tiger Porsche a good kit?
Or the Revell 1/35 King Tiger Henschel?

They're both on sale for about the same price on HLJ

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>>6375562
I know right? But the kit itself look kinda cool.
Planing on painting the chassis panzer Grey with the guns on primer red.
If the kit is retarded I see no problem on going full retard on the colors.

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>>6375308
From the thumbnail I thought that was some version of pic related for a second, I mistook that grey for blue.

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How do you guys like Mr Hobby Base White? Is it good enough to be used entirely on its own as a white primer?

Just having a bad model day, guys. Dropping parts, ruining finishes/clear coats, fucking shit up.

Shit is depressing.

>>6376323
>Dropping parts
try putting a black bag on the floor beneath you, then the little bits should be visible.

should try that myself sometime desu.

>>6376331
nah, not losing parts. They're really big and unfortunately I keep dropping them after spraying a layer of future or varnish. It ruins the clear coat immediately.

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>>6373274
Fuck it. It's done. Off to build something else

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>>6376807

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>>6376810

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>>6376813

>>6376807
I like it.
Any backstory for the "Pueblo"?

>>6376842
It's one of the tanks involved in the Dominican civil war in 1965. Pueblo just means the People

>>6376260
You probably should try to track down reviews using both a web search and scalemates. Also some build logs. Some build logs/threads get quite detailed and can point out flaws or give ideas on how to enhance a kit.

>>6376813
Looks good. :)

>>6369752
1/600 Is where it becomes to becomes less detailed in plastic dw

>>6376260
Im willing to bet 100% that Revell kit is a rebox of (probably) Zvezda or something. Check Scalemates.com for more information and find out what people have said about the original model.

>>6376260
HLJ ships from Japan.
I don't know where you live so maybe its your only available option (which i doubt), but why would you order kits from european companies (Germany and Russia) from Japan? They are way more expensive there than they are in their original countries. Try getting them from Ebay or an online store from their home countries instead.

>>6377159
Close enough, it's ICM's kitty. Zvezda somewhat more surprisingly is using Dragon's tooling.

>>6377166
>Zvezda somewhat more surprisingly is using Dragon's tooling.

Which is superb and quite a steal for the price Zvezda is asking.

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>>6376814
New project

>>6376264
The guns where usually left plain steel weren't they? Or at least the barrels themselves weren't painted I'm not 100% sure about other componants like the breaches etc.

>>6377313
Nope.

The barrels were painted in a heat-resistant paint. Usually they were painted in the same color as the tank on top of this.
If its a replacement barrel that was rushed towards the front in the last months of the war then a plain one might be possible.

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Started work on the char 2c. So far it has been uneventful and quicker than I thought so I'm pretty happy with meng. Main ""troubles"" I've found is some flash and mould lines and the full hull assembly that despite my efforts ended misaligned int the lower front.
Some day of the next week I'll make the final pics of the tiran and post them.
>>6376807
Pretty good, the air intake has too much pigment there and it would accumulate on an air intake like that so if you can swipe it off more.
>>6376264
If by guns you mean the whole zwilling flak it would be either dunkelgelb or oliv/resedagrün if you wanted the whole thing painted in a basic color. If you referred to the barrels they were primed in a dark grey (dulkelgrau like) lacquer as >>6377319 said and the rest of the metal parts in red primer.
Both options are good but I would refrain from the red/grey unless you really wanted it or plan to say it was defending a factory as such a huge and important thing would get a bit of camo paint if fielded elsewhere

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Drove about three hours round trip to go to this hobby shop in Long Island. It was so fucking sick

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Maus chassis nearly done. Primed in black, airbrushed over in a Vallejo sand colour. Rubbed powdered graphite around the wheels for wear and then a light dusting of Mig pigments.

>>6377450
It's already been fixed fix pigment fixer. Eh, fuck it. You live and learn. How good is that Char 2C? Looks like an interesting kit. There's one in my LHS but they upped the price to 68 euros but there's a D9R as well and and both are pretty interesting subjects. Built Men's Mk.A Whipped and it was pretty good.

>>6377500
It's pretty good and visually impressive as it's huge and looks like a ship or an armored train than a tank. Its unusual look it's what made me buy it (69€) and if you look for something WWI but not quite is perfect, if it was cheaper it would be a pretty cool base for a steampunk tank and other conversions.
Build-wise looks like a pretty chill, but not tamiya level, as its mostly big subassemblies of few parts.
The bulldozer would be a more complex project probably so depends if you want to have more fun or a challenge I guess?

>>6377469
Damn.

>>6377469
is there any point going to hobby shop these days everything can be gotten online often cheaper except maybe paints.

>>6377624
You get to be part of a community or a club instead of being an autist on the internet

>>6377631
a club of autists? no thanks

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>>6377624
Mainly you find things you wouldnt necessarily know you want. Pic related I bought this

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>>6377182
bruva, just be careful when building the cab and the radio station, the instructions are reversed for the radio.

Does anyone else have trouble browsing luckymodel? Their site just does not seem intuitive...

>>6376953
Nice, I love kits with backstory.

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>>6377450
>>6377313
>>6377319
Something like pic related? But with the chasis painted Panzer Grey.

>>6377450
>Char 2C
Looking forward for it! French tanks get little love.

What's your guy's favorite kit you painted, if you have pictures that would be nice.
What makes this hobby fun, is it painting something you like or is there something else?

>>6377634
Where do you think you are, faggot? LHS's dying is a bad thing. Fuck you and your internet shit.

>>6377830
I prefer building and detailing

>>6377624
It's faster than waiting for shipping.
Also every time I go for some paints I end up with twice the paints, 2 varnishes, putty, and 2 kits I didn't plan to buy.
It's fun.

>>6377874
>Also every time I go for some paints I end up with twice the paints, 2 varnishes, putty, and 2 kits I didn't plan to buy.

While I'm sure the store loves that, I'm not sure I'd consider it such a good thing for the customer.

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>>6377830
This. I spam it a lot so sorry guys. I really enjoyed the level of creativity it allowed me

>>6377918
I go out quite happy do I consider it a win win.
Until I realize I am now stuck with an ACE kit or a fucking PST PT-76B

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Completely done painting. Gotta add a couple decals and I'm done. Kit includes some floating orbs on wires but I'm moving soon and itll be easier to transport without.

Coworker is making me a custom base and unfortunately the decals I've ordered havent shipped yet.

>>6378046
What kind of decals did you order?

>>6378145
http://modelgrad.com/image/cache/catalog/bgm/bgm48031_4-700x700.jpg

I needed ONE fucking CCCP decal and the only way to get it was to buy like 7 sheets worth.

>>6378164
A generic alphabet sheet probably would have been more versatile but I guess it's a little late now

>>6377872
I recall a guy writing to a magazine saying his favourite bit was sticking fucking decals on. I thought it had to be a joke.

>>6377874
That's normal.

So I've been wanting to get into weathering and I spent the past few days reading the weathering magazine PDF:s, but since it's also basically a commercial for AK/Ammo of Mig products I wonder if there are better/cheaper alternatives than the products featured in it.

Also, what place do the tamiya weathering kits have? Are they like pigments or something else?

>>6378569
>tamiya weathering kits

You mean the weathering sticks? They are great. A bit like lipstick but you can thin/mix them with water to create a muddy wash.

>re better/cheaper alternatives

Vallejo does lots of that stuff too, and so do a couple of other companies.

What exactly do you want to buy? Maybe we can tell you some alternatives for specific products.

>>6378574

I'm mainly interested in armor, but sometimes also planes. At this point I'm not thinking about making dioramas, just adding things like wear and dirt to the models, maybe snow also. So I guess the pigment and enamel related products mainly? I'm not sure how important oils are in comparison.

I'm airbrushing/handbrushing vallejo model color/model air and I have their glaze medium, their chipping medium and the tamiya black and grey panel line accents already.

I'm not sure if there is actually a point to the acrylic wash/glaze medium since the basecoat is also acrylic, so I don't know how to clean up properly without damaging the basecoat.

I asked about the Tamiya weathering kits since I have one lying around but I haven't actually used it.

>>6378586
>>6378574

Oh, and I have been cleaning up the enamel washes with lighter fluid, I assume that also works as a replacement for the white spirit they used for blending?

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>>6377830
These two I'd say.

As for what makes it fun, well, I need a bit of handicrafts in my life I guess. The best bits of a build tend to be when the shape and look of what I'm making comes to life, so usually some of the big parts being glued together (I'm a sucker for size comparisons which helps make that bit a big part of things), main coats of paint, but also when the detail work makes things come to life. The impact of a painting step isn't always proportional to the surface area covered.

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And since I had the photo "studio" out an assembled. This may help provide some context to the size of the Strv m/40L built by another anon above (the Pueblo one). The m/38 here is just slightly shorter in the hull.

>>6378648
Its really hard to imagine that these are the same scale. Maybe one or two crew miniatures might help there.

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>>6378652
Might get a bit easier when I get around to building a t34 or something else like that, in between the tiny pre-war light tank and the modern MBT behemoth.

I was also about to say something about there seemingly being little in the way of Swedish 1/72 tank crew figures around, but thinking about it there aren't all that many 1/72 tanks with crew fugues at all, is there?

>>6378677
Yeah, getting swedish crew might be hard, but some nato tankers might do for the modern one i guess.

I'm not an expert on tanker uniforms but some guys in generic overalls maybe?
For example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Dog-1-72-German-Modern-Tank-AFV-Crew-2-Full-4-Half-figures-T72053-/181259310203

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>>6377798
Yep like in your pic. I'm going to buy the takom aml-90 (already preordered it so next month should be here) and I've been ogling the tamiya somua 35 for a while, they are a nice change from German and Russian subjects for me. I'm planning something quite ambitious for the aml but I'm not sure if I will have the time to do what I've planned with a diorama.
>>6377830
I'm undecided between pic related (http://imgur.com/a/HuB9i) or this other http://imgur.com/a/DyGZ6. So far weathering is the most fun part for me, it gives it live and differentiates it from a painted plastic toy and gives more context and perhaps an story to the viewer (dioramas are better at this tho).
>>6378586
If you read the magazines you would know that the varnish is used to protect the paint job from the next steps... As for what do you need it depends on the subject. The panel liner would substitute washes but you lack the brown color so get some oils or the brown panel liner.

Oils would be the most general tool along pigments tbqh, they are expensive but it lasts forever. To work it you should use white spirits or odorless turpentine but if lighter fluid works for you keep using it I guess. Acrylics also work for weathering but rather poorly compared to enamels and oils and lack the blending/fading/finish the others give but its possible.
Hairspray, salt and liquid masking fluid can substitute chipping fluids for example, but what exactly do you need to find an alternative of?

Since i encountered this critique quite often in reviews and youtube videos i want to know what you think:
Is the "lack of paint options" something that should be criticized?

Like here from a todays review video:
>The kit is almost flawless, suffering only from the same problems seen in Super Wing Series No.4 - F-4J - the thick nozzles and the single paint option.

How is a paint option even a thing? Nobody stops me from painting that thing how i want it to be. I have literally all the paint options in the world if i want.

Is this really something that should be criticized or is it just looking for a flaw if there is nothing else to find?

>>6378737

Since the varnish I'm using is also the vallejo acrylic kind I'm not sure what chemical would remove the acrylic wash but not affect it or the basecoat.

Anyway, enamels, oils and pigments seem like better suited for the job. As for alternatives I was just wondering if I would be better off using a different brand than the ones under the ammo/mig label, either in that they would be better or cheaper, but it's mainly a reaction on my part to the fact that the weathering magazine is at least partially a big mig/ammo/AK ad.

As for the subject itself, I was thinking of doing an armor project in desert colors with the appropriate weathering, though I haven't settled on a specific kit or desert at the moment. I guess there can be a difference between different deserts, so I apologize for not being terribly specific on this point.

>>6378574

Actually I realized the tamiya weathering kit I have is called "weathering master", so no it's not the sticks.

>>6378752
You'll need to dish out extra money for a decal set if you want more options. hat's a valid criticism. There should be 2 decal option in every kit at minimum. Of course this doesn't apply to vehicles that had only one paint scheme.

>>6378753
I find AK/AMMo stuff not necessarily more expensive than the other big companies.

If i were to order them from a online store from my country i would pay these prices:

Pigments

Vallejo: 3,95 for 30ml
AK: 3,50 for 35ml
AMMO: 3,60 for 35ml
Humbrol: 3,95€ for 28ml
Abt 502: 4,20€ for 20ml

Enamel Washes:

Vallejo (they don't have enamel washes, but their acrylic ones cost 2,75 for 17ml)
AK 3,95 for 35ml
AMMO 3,60 for 35ml
Humbrol: 5,25 for 28ml

Overall most of these brands cost roughly the same. Making washes yourself from oil paint is always cheaper ofc, but its not like you pay for a "premium name" if you buy AK stuff compared to vallejo.
I even think that given the somewhat tense history between Ammo and AK they try to undercut each other which is always good for the customer.

>>6378752
Only one paint option tends to mean you only get the decals for one paint option, meaning if you want to do anything else you're going to be out looking for after market decals, which can increase the total cost of the kit by a significant amount. More options in the box is better value for the money.

>>6378753
Some chemicals will have a bit of effect on acrylics, which won't matter if it just dissolves a bit of the varnish, but can be a lot less fun if it starts eating through the paint itself. Solvents may also diffuse through the paint and embrittle the plastic in some cases, a thicker layer of acrylics means less of that shit bothering you. And there's always the risk of outright rubbing off the paintjob as you handle the model during weathering.

>>6378752
I guess that searching aftermarket decals and all the views to said paint job is more work and some people (myself included even if in only one of my last 4 builds I followed the box ones) like having some variety offered out of the box and if I feel like it then start the process of investigating alternatives.
Specially if the subject has a ton of irl options adding only 2 seems cheap for example.
>>6378753
Well those magazines are from those companies and specialized in their niche (wreathing and painting) but there's never a 100% mig products build for example and they show other brands too but they ain't retards either ya know?
They show you the technique (THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO LEARN FROM THAT) and the colors they used, up to you if you buy it from them or search a similar one from vallejo or whatever for example. Also with experience comes flexibility and alternatives will just come up to you on the go, don't expect to just start and do something like the magazine ones both in execution and knowing what colors and textures use.
Also weathering is putting x hing in y environment as close to reality as possible so once you know the subject and what you want to do then you start wondering how to get there.

>>6378768
>>6378764

I get what you are saying, but i'm not 100% convinced that should be a point when it comes to review a kit.
Its like saying you need metal barrels or resin wheels or other aftermarket products (which no doubt will make a big difference if applied properly) and therefore the kit is inferior if it comes without all that.

>>6378777
If the kit costs as much as one with PE and metal barrels then it's a valid criticism. Look at Dragon's recent kits: Dragon Shit tracks, very little PE and no other stuff and they're asking the same or more than their older stuff that had all the good stuff

>>6378779
If the price comes into play like this then its valid, thats true.

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>>6378777
You seldom bother with pointing out things being the way they normally are. You usually get multiple marking options, so only having one means the kit provides less than people are likely to expect. An informative review will therefore mention this, so that people's expectations are brought in line with reality, and since it's less than the norm, it'll be pointed out as a negative.

PE generally isn't included, meaning people usually don't expect it. So if the kit does come with PE, the review should point it out, and as it's something above and beyond the norm it'll be held up as a positive.

Of course, more specific cases may call for deviations form this. People probably won't complain much about a cheap as fuck Airfix kit only having one marking option (still, pointing it out may be called for), but if an Eduard Royal line kit came without any PE all hell had better break loose.

Now as for the lengthy look at every face of the box, and the thirty seconds loud as fuck channel logo/intro that every youtube reviewer seems bound by divine law to include...

>>6378766
>>6378770

I'll just check which brands my preferred hobby stores stock and go with that once I have settled on a subject and looked into it.

I've heard that the abteilung stuff is good shit, though, is it true that they are better than the competition as far as quality goes? Or should I just go with the cheaper brands for oils and pigments? Might not even matter since I'm a beginner in the area.

>>6378820
I have yet to try Abteilung 502, but i have some washes from ak, mig and pigments from vallejo, ak, mig and wargaming companies called "kromlech" as well as "secret weapons".

It might be a lack of skill or knowledge on my side, but i can't see a difference between pigment powder besides the obvious color difference. I couldn't find a difference between the track washes by ak and ammo. Both work in the same way and both look like you would expect it.

>>6378820
Don't bother much with abt 502, I have their oils (I have yet to try them) and they look like 4-7€ "normal" ones, but until I use them I can't say for sure so buy if they are cheaper or feel like it. Their pigments are overpriced, buy mig/vallejo/ak or whatever as long as they are fine and comparable to mig in quality. I have mig and vallejo and they work really well.

For washes I guess they all do the same but I prefer mig, you could either get them in sets or just choose the brand that has the shade you fancy the most bu they are really similar color wise. Same applies to the earth/dust effects enamels, overall pretty similar but mig has a richer texture but ak is more liquid so easy to use as a wash.
Mig splashes and mud are GOAT, better than vallejo acrylic alternative so far but vallejo ain't bad in this case don't get me wrong.