Customs General

Here's some tips from the previous threads:

Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.

For sculpting on figures: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.

For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have, and calipers for symmetry.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.

For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.

Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.

A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a cut open soda bottle.

Previous thread >>6280212

Also, there is a guide in the works, by mellow

http://pastebin.com/yiZV3s0R

Give feedback/critiques to help improve it.

>>6342268
Holy shit that Envy is pretty good.

>>6343234
Aside from buying a bunch of cheap bootlegs, is there an inexpensive means of getting a bunch of figma stands? I want the hinged arms for making articulated prehistoric megafauna. I know Croix did that for his Rachnera and Centorea projects.

>>6343262
Shit, did not mean to quote >>6343234

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Fuck.
I have three options for getting Torca and finishing my Fuzors collection but only one of them sounds reasonable.
Get one for cheap that is half-broken, fix it, and never touch it again; get the japanese Elephorca that uses blue plastic for 200 dollaridoos; or get the cheap, half-broken one and recast every gold plastic part.

Pic related is Torca and every gold part in it is just waiting to crack and break off.
I can get the materials so that's no problem, the resin sold here has a shore hardness of 65 so that would be alright, but I haven't found a reason to cast stuff in resin until now so it'd be the first time I'm doing this.
Is it even possible or worth it?

>>6343675
I wouldn't say so. I have a Torca and he's not THAT fragile. I'm still able to transform him without being too careful. The tail had broken off but I was able to mend it and the internal posts in the chest for the screws had snapped, but some glue fixed that. So, just so long as you're careful with it, it should be okay.

>>6343948
I-i'm trusting you o-only because people are really nice in these threads.

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Progress photo of my Ghost Rider figure as he appears in Agents of Shield.

Always wanted to make custom figures and I finally took the plunge. Having almost zero experience, I definitely bit off more than I could chew for a first custom
Some things I've taken note of:
>Figuarts joints are not universal
>they do not pop out as easily as standard Figma joints
>I can't sculpt for shit
>take more time sanding
>painting should be the last step, otherwise I risk paint coming out uneven
>joints need to be heavily sanded to avoid paint rub
So far I've been enjoying the experience and I feel like this is a great hobby for me to get into.

>>6344245
Dude, that looks so fucking sick.
Post more pics, please.

>>6343675
That's a lot of recasting man, Torca is like 70% exploding plastic. If you're not experienced with casting I would skip it. Not to mention, I don't own Torca and don't know how he transforms, but casting is an unreliable process and I would imagine that Transformers need pretty tight tolerances for all the pegs and tabs to fit together right.

On a side note, it is tragic that he was a GPS victim, cause as a kid I always thought he was one of the coolest Beast Wars designs of all time.

>>6344245
Honestly not bad so far, what's the base for the body? I'm assuming that's Glenfire's head.

Also, it would be sick if you could blend the skull sculpt/paint smoothly into the translucent flames so it seems to just emerge from them.

Anyone have experience with those revoltech joint lots on Ebay? Are they legit joints or just packs of bootlegs. I ran out of large joint's which I salvaged from some old revos for my current project.

>>6344245
That's fucking awesome.
>>6344474
I've owned two Revoltech figures and one figma, and have bought one big lot of joints off of eBay. To my eyes and hands, they feel legit. The plastic is good and of various types, none were broken, and it took a serious amount of force for me to accidentally snap one large Revo joint apart (not broken, just pulled apart). The only thing to consider is that in those lots, you're likely not going to get exactly what's pictured, and the joints are so varied that you may only get one or two large ones. My 36 piece lot only had 6 large ones, and all of the smallest ones felt like figma joints.

>>6344245
looks a hell of a lot better than my first custom, good work m8

>>6344337
From what I see in the figure, only the kibble cape is really in any need to fit tightly, though the rest is the limbs which need to be tight and well-aligned even more.

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Progress on the Gwynevere from last thread. Sewed a frilled trim to the hood and wrappings on the upper body. Also sewed in the gold ribbon on the cloth that wraps around the chest.

Re-working the upper waist ones and arm ones so that it doesn't look so cluttered. After this its onto making the couch throne.

Also I'm debating on whether or not to keep the large bust or switch back to the xl bust body.

>>6342268
What's the bottom right one supposed to be? Also the transformer with the tits?

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How do these look? I just finished painting them.

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Tbh, don't know if I want to put this in the toy gore thread or this thread. It makes me very sad.

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>>6345975
Your paints are way too fucking thick, you needed to thin them. Looks like shit, sorry bud. Should have gotten advice after doing one, not doing a bunch and ruining them all.

>>6343262
not figma stands, but should be just as good for that purpose would be Tamashii stage act stands. I forget which one exactl but they come in a set of 3 for about $12-$15 iirc. Sometimes a deal comes up and you can get that pack even cheaper.

Also of note would be the Bolden Arms Gunpla set, and the Flexible Arms M.S.G sets. These are model kits so assembly is required.

>>6346361
>>6346362
that's tragic. Those BBI toys are few and far between in good and complete condition.

I have mine from EB toys and cherish it with BBI kain, superior to the NECA one.

What would be the best filament to use for printing out custom figures bases?

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>>6342268
Very very very early WIP. WIP prototype.Just thought I'd share for fun. Sadly going back to work in two days so I be surprised if this project gets finished by fall. Legs will probably be changed completely to a Marvel Legend style joint. The revoltech ball joints are working fine for everything else though. Still gotta troubleshoot weight concerns.

>>6346454
That face sculpt is pretty damn good

>>6346425
I haven't picked up Lieutenant Raziel yet, and that is what makes this all the more sad to me. I have BBI Kain and both the NECA Raziels, looove theeemmm.

Anyone who uses vallejo paints here? I'm trying to get that Marvel Legends tan skintone they use but I dont have all of vallejo skin tones so I'm trying to mix my own. It's in order to repaint this punisher cast head I have. In general, I really fucking suck at painting heads, and eyes. Any advice?

>>6346454
Holy fuck I'll buy two

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Neat, my picture made the OP. I wasn't going to post again until she was painted, but I wanted to give an update after seeing that.

Still not super happy with the mouths, but I think after everything dries and another quick sanding, I'll just see how they look painted. They're quick enough to recast and sculpt that I can try again if they still don't look good.

Also, snagged a cheap body from the BST, so I decided to try and sculpt some bigger breasts. Can't decide if I should try sculpting nipples or use some bandaid waterslides for pasties. After sanding, the bangs look a lot better. I added some, I'm not sure the term, highlight lines? Like panel lines, but for hair highlights.

All in all, just a few gap welds, hole patches, and a lot more sanding and I think I might be ready to paint tomorrow or monday. I have all the colors and the eye waterslides handy already.

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>>6346746
And this is one reason why I've been so slow with Ryona. I have project add, sorry. Only a few weeks of work on this and still another few months ahead of me, but I think it's recognizable at least. Having a bit of trouble with the feet and the face. I have a few ideas for the face, but the feet I think I need to just keep trying and eventually it will click.

Ignore the half dozen half finished Megami Device things in the background. What happens is that I always grab too much apoxie and then try and use it for something else so I don't waste it, so I end up with a dozen half started things for every thing I finish.

Is there any way to ensure the integrity of those small cilinders for screws?
I'm making a mold for a titan master faceplate and I have no idea how to keep those things from breaking; I'm doing everything with epoxy putty, I just don't have the room to work with resin.

>>6345975
obviously this is bait, you're posting some poor schlub's customs from Allshit or TFDubya.

>>6346361
I actually kind of like that black and red effect on the chest area - assuming it's on purpose of course. How would one achieve that? That would work great for, say, a school swimsuit made transparent.

>>6346788
Can you embed metal parts(rods and cylinders) in your epoxy?

If you're making interchangeable face plates, consider using small magnets to attach the faces.

>>6346873
>Can you embed metal parts(rods and cylinders) in your epoxy?
If you mean the mold, yeah, I could put something there to not have some shitty epoxy rod stuck in the original. I just searched for a nail and got one that fits snuggly into the screw's slot, would that suffice?

I'm making a new facesculpt for said titan master btw; it's pretty likely that the new faceplate would just stay there as I don't care much for the character of the base figure.

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Awful warm lighting in my room, but how's he look?

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>>6347073

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>>6347076

>>6346601
The gunpla general should be able to help ypu out

>>6347076
Prime's toothpick neck is bugging me, but I don't know enough about the transforming process to know if its feasible to bulk him up

>>6347259
Its a third party head, it annoys me too, I'm debating removing it and thickening the neck with some epoxie.

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Hope no one minds one last picture of Ryona before I send her to the spray booth. Her boobjob was a recent addition since I snagged a cheap body. Not great, but they'll be hidden under clothes most of the time. All together it does look a little on the big side, I have to admit.

>>6348156
Nice to see someone with more cluttered workspace than mine.

>>6348236
Like I said, I have a big problem with not wanting to waste apoxie, so when I have leftovers, I start project after project that I'll never actually finish. I have a whole system for Megami Device backpacks using AAA batteries designed that I'll never actually finish and those things to the left of Ryona's head are all headrests for a shinki cradle I'll also probably never finish.

When I need more room, I just put those unfinished projects away.

>>6348156
>Ryona
What're you planning to do with her m8

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Secondary WIP though much closer to being finished. Arms and body need a complete reprint due to multiple fuckups with sockets. Extended arms so he can wield hammer with both but not liking final result so back to drawing board. Satisfied with feet and head articulation.

>>6346746
How did you sculpt the hair without it breaking apart? Where/how did you insert wires or build up an armature for it?

>>6348473
Thats so fucking cool man, Looks damn good

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Another color question here, sorry. This looks a bit too dark, but after lightening it up a little, would this be a good color for leather? I also have Vallejo's US Dark Green if that's closer.

>>6349479
Sculpted it in sections. I don't know the word for it, but, like, each little strand/clump of hair on each side was one session, then I waited for it to dry and did the next. No wires, and the front piece is just solid apoxie. The back uses a piece of recasted Picco Neemo hair cut down to just a half sphere as the base.

>>6348473
do you have cut-up model files for that? it looks great

>>6346454
Please tell me you have a plan to sell copies?

>>6346454
Is that 3d printed? How big is it?

>>6348473
damn boy that looks fucking good, you got an email?

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WIP adding articulation to a static Skull Crawler toy

>>6352276
A million times better than most articulation additions I've seen. Someone post that poor Captain Falcon.

>>6348156
what sculpting tools do you use? also what putty brand?

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My first custom- used a black panther 3.75" for my base. Felt pretty good to see it slowly become this. Wish I'd looked more into that ankle arcticulation, no rockers really limits posing.

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>>6352631
>the amiibo custom
oh god i wish i had that picture

>>6352052
It's only accurately scaled if you can describe it as "too big"

>>6352766
kek

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Looking to paint Obi Wans rob or at least give it a wash to make it pop. Damn molded plastic is such a turnoff. Any tips before I venture forth?
Thanks in advance, and inB4 thin your paints.

>>6353292
If you are new just give it a wash. My recommendation would be to grab Citadels Nuln oil or sepia washes. Try to do a 3:1 mix of water and nuln oil though and that should do the trick.

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>>6353323
Im not entirely new. Ive done touch ups before and gunpla (painted just the upper torso), just not a whole fig. Ive been working testors acrylics for quite some time, and they seem to do the job. Ive got a flat and dark tan. Im just trying to work with what I got. Ill keep am eye out for those oil and washes though. Thanks.

>>6353426
Yup no problem, Be a bit careful with testors acrylics though. They are incredibly thick for a smaller scale, If you dont want to spend the money on citadel paints vallejo is a really good alternative.

>>6353292
what sword is that?

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>>6352744
i gotchu famalamadingdong.

>>6353759
Oh man, this never ceases to amaze. Especially with this anon recently coming back and being like "Oh well it was just a proof of concept for my jointed Ganondorf Amiibo!" which looked just as bad.

>>6352714
That's straight-up awesome.
Really wish Agent Venom got more love. :/

>>6353754
Came from the mcfarlane Morpheus.

>>6347078
looks decent, good job

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>>6353759
>>6353762
He just needs to remove some of the figure material to fit the joints. Add putty where necessary and paint.

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Thanks for the feedback guys. Besides some more paint apps and joint trimming, progress has slowed down. I'm still figuring out what I should do for the skull. Does anyone know if the Big Pose Skeleton head scales well with SHF?

>>6344339
Base body is a combination of SHF Tony Stark legs and lower torso; SHF Leto Joker arms and upper torso; Ultra Act Glenfire head and flame staff accessory.
I probably could have gotten away with just using Tony Stark and sculpted everything else but Ghost Rider was actually my second custom choice. At first I wanted to make a MCU Quicksilver (which can be seen in the background) so I bought Stark for that, but then a pre-owned Joker with missing pieces popped up on Amiami for cheap afterwards so I bought that too thinking the face sculpt would be easier to modify to resemble the actor. To justify spending that much on a face sculpt I swapped some pieces and Quicksilver took a back seat once I realized Ghost Rider would be an easier build. I ended up buying Glenfire for the head as well but thankfully I have some ideas for the rest of him so it wouldn't be a waste.

>>6354965
>MCU Quicksilver (which can be seen in the background) so I bought Stark for that
I was rewatching AoU while playing with Revoltech Ultron yesterday and it occurred to me to try exactly this. Unfortunately, I prefer the Quickslav look.

Just asking before I plan on doing something stupid.
I really want a Japanese Spiderman and I'm considering using the Shocker Combatman as a base. What kind of plastic is used for figuarts? Does it take epoxy and paint well?

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>>6354965
Excellent work!

Here's Big Guy Pose Skeleton and a Revoltech skull from the Jason and the Argonauts skeleton for comparison.

>>6352701
Aves Apoxie. And I really just use sandpaper, an x-acto knife, and my fingers. I have a cheap kit of tools from Amazon, but rarely end up using them.

And sorry for the no updates if anyone's waiting with baited breath.I really messed up sanding the faces, only two out of six turned out any good so I have to redo all those. The hair came out wonderfully and the collars look pretty good too though. Hopefully I'll have something else to show by the end of the weekend,

>>6345495
How big is the difference between large and XL? While they were big they never really became too much. Mybe it's easier to see when she is lying down in the position she is supposed to be in.

>>6356325
You happened to have all three figs I needed to make a decision, I love you dude. I guess I'm gonna have to pick up the revol.

>>6356325
Actually I just got instant indecisiveness. You have all three figures in hand, which skull do you recommend?

>>6356849
Out of the two, definitely the Revo. Rement Pose Skeleton is really small and too cartoony for my taste. As a side note the Jason and the Argonauts skeleton comes with a base with a second skeleton warrior coming out of the ground, so you'll have an extra skull. But I just saw on Amazon, an assorted 4 pack of the Dokuroman Skeletons for about $78 shipped, and the Gaikotsu Skeleton Iron Red Ver(multiple demonic skulls) for $44 free shipping.

>I just got instant indecisiveness.
>instant
6 hours later. :-P

>>6356849
>>6356926
Forgot to add, the skelly general might be a good place to ask for advice and maybe get a decent deal on a skull.
>>6290952

>>6356926
00:15:08 and 00:21:06, not 15:08 and 21:06
>You cannot delete a post this old.
*sigh*

>>6346454
Yeah, I'll take one!

Is Vallejo's satin or gloss varnish better for anime hair shine?

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Getting there.

>>6357344

Satin

>>6357891
Do you have any problems with the joints falls out because the parts aren't a rubbery material?

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I know very little about 3D printing, but a store on shapeways seems like my only option for this thing so I'm gonna give it a try. I'm mostly wondering about what material to have it done in; I've heard people say to stay away from frosted ultra detail, but that's mostly because of fragility concerns for moving parts, right? It's just a model so there shouldn't be much stress on it, and I don't want something that's gonna be super grainy.

>>6357918
The joint sockets are on a concave so when you insert them the further you push in the tighter they become. Because of the infill level they sit pretty tight. It took almost 6 tries to get the tolerance at a consistent level though. Last print after the photo I posted I can successfully hold him by his arms with no issue. I wanna try one more body with a tighter tolerance though before seeing how he looks finished. I also want to experiment with magnetic feet . The hammer affects the balance but it's because it's too heavy. Looking for a solution regarding that.

>>6358353
Frosted is the way to go for details like that. It is fragile, but be gentle and you should be fine.

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Plotting out my first custom project, and I've got my base figure (a Vitruvian HACK), waiting for Aves Apoxie to be delivered to my place, and grabbed some middle-low-priced brushes/sculpt tools. Holding off on a Dremel, since I'm starting with a blank slate and not switching out body parts.

What I'm wondering about is a set of Testors Acrylic Premium Detail paints I bought on sale to use for the figure (see only shitty pic I could find online). If anyone here's used it, what did you think of it?

Is a primer needed for use on plastics?

Would I be able to use another brand's (eg: Sculpey) top coat/sealer over it, or is the Testors' CreateFX coat decent if just brushed on?

>>6358353
Wait, the ship in The Expanse was named after Don Quixote's horse? ahahahahahahaha

>>6358363
Let me give you a weird tip that I picked up from some Japanese guy who does this. Print the holes extra small, then if they are indeed to small you can take like a 2.6mm drill bit and ream them out a little by hand. Still to tight? 2.7, and so on. Dude also talked about heating up a 2.8mm rod and just inserting it, but I'm not that brave, afraid I might tilt it slightly or something, throwing everything out of whack.

>>6358397
I have no idea how I fucked up the word too so many times in that post

>>6356477
xl is a little on the ridiculous size, I'll take comparison pictures tomorrow for reference.

>>6358373
OK cool, that's what I was thinking. I'll still take paint easily enough, right?

>>6358394
It's not a series known for subtle writing.

>>6355675
that scared the crap out of me when I expanded the thumbnail

>>6343675
I had Torca and the neck broke twice even when I was being super-careful.

Go for the Japanese one if you can stomach the price. GPS just isn't worth it. Plus, his anime appearance is the Elephorca colours anyway.

>>6344004
Not to spit on the other anon, but GPS can't really just be fixed with glue. It'll eventually just crumble further. The only way to nip it in the bud is to eliminate GPS entirely.

What's the cheapest way to 3D-print stuff? Shapeways is kinda pricey for me because of international shipping (yes, even for tiny things), so I've considered getting my own 3D printer, but to get something close to their level, I'd probably need a very expensive one.

Any recommendations?

Also, how in the actual fuck do I learn to 3D model for 3D printing? I've got a very basic grasp on 3D modelling. Obviously you don't need to use textures or anything, but I tend to find cutting and gluing styrene together to be much easier (albeit less durable).

Possibly a stupid question…
So I have a silicon mould. Is it possible to pour PVA glue in, leave it to set and then pull it out? Do I need a mould-release agent?

>>6358748
The printers a Shapeways uses (specifically the ones that do SLS printing) are not going to be financially viable for you as they cost around $100K USD or so.

As for design, Sculptris is a free 3D modeling software you can look into. If CAD is more your thing SketchUp is also free to use.

This might not be the right thread, but does anyone make custom weapons for 1/12 stuff? There's a ton of stuff for 1/6, but not so much for 6", and I want some sci-fi stuff anyway.

For acrylics, about how long after painting should you wait until varnish or top coat or whatever you call it?

Also, I feel like this is a stupid question, but if I were to mix a gloss or satin top coat with a matte, would that tone down the shine?

>>6357891
wow anon that looks dope

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Dishonorably discharged from service for "removing kestrels", Marcus spends his time hunting ivory and taking pcp.

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>>6353292
Update on Obis rob. Its not the best looking wash, but I like it.

>>6359721
Pulls up a lot of the detail. Looking good!

>>6358958
Thought so, but is there any home solution that works even remotely as good, even if it's just for prototyping/testing before sending to Shapeways?

I don't mind what software costs; I'd just like to get the best one for 3D modelling, though I don't know which would be the easiest to learn/objectively the best for 3D printing stuff. Easy to learn isn't necessarily a big deal either - just whatever is best.

I'm guessing something like Maya is a bit too extreme for this though.

>>6360234
Aside from getting your own printer and doing it yourself (printers that do PLA printing are only a few hundred burger bucks) the only way to 'test' dimensions of a print-to-be is to get the 3D model broken down into triangular facets (I think Blender does that) and then flattened, ink-printed on paper, and then paper-craft it as a paper-model for concept-checking.

>>6359601
This is amazing.

>>6359271
No one I know of. I know some dollhouse suppliers do but the selection is shit. Your best bet is little armory for guns and for melee weapons shit like gashapon and candy toys. That being said I do plan on selling 1:12 accessories via etsy or whatever channel lets me do ecommerce without paypal after I get casting supplies. After finishing some prototypes I'm thinking of putting together a DS1 set.

>>6355957
Anyone?

First time trying to do a custom, have this hollow plastic figure I'd like to add more joints to. My plan is cutting it up and filling the individual parts with putty so that I have something for the joints to stick into. Would that be a good idea or should I try something else?

>>6362587
Good idea for practice!

One thing I'd like to know though:

What joints are you using? Hobby Base? Revoltech? Homemade?

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>>6362587
>Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.

I've seen some people on 2chan that customize monster sofubis that fill in the figure with putty and put revo style joints in there. But also taking a more human sofubi figure and putting an entire SHF figure in there.

Consider that you can hack off joints from almost any figure to cannibalize their joints, for instance using the knee joint of a GI Joe figure in the arm of a larger figure.

Here's someone using some rubber tubing to hold their joints in place.

>>6360873
I'm totally down with getting my own 3D printer. What are the recommended ones in terms of price vs. quality? I saw Trent Troop recommend the Micro 3D which currently has a coupon code ("199DEAL", in case anyone wants it) to get it for only $199, but then there's a newer model, the Micro 3D+, and there are plenty of other brands too.

I'm also not completely sure about plastic types. I know some basics but I'm not sure if I should be using PLA, ABS (or ABS-R - I assume there's a difference but I'm not sure), etc.

I might have missed it if it were posted somewhere on /toy/ but basically, I need some sort of primer on 3D printers and such. I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone could point me in the right direction.

>>6363408
If your serious about making figures from scratch I highly advise against spending less than a grand. You'll be spending more time dealing with the problems of the printer than actually making anything.

>>6363461
I'm definitely serious about it. I'm already doing it with styrene and such, so a 3D printer would be, in my opinion, a good investment and something I should learn to use (along with 3D modelling). That's why I'm asking for all the tips that I can get for getting into 3D modelling/printing.

>>6358385
A little research says Testors acrylic is decent for brushing but hit-or-miss with airbrush. Remember to thin your paints, and throw out the shit brushes the paint came with, obviously.

Primer is your best friend.

If you want a gloss coat, use Future floor polish. If you want satin, several layers of watered-down future will get the job done. It self levels beautifully so you can brush it on without any brushstrokes. I recently put some painted fimo with a Future topcoat through a lot of abuse and was shocked at how pristine the paint remained.

>>6358901
What are you trying to do with it? I'm pretty sure it won't stick to silicone, but I would put a little test blob somewhere to check.

>>6359308
I wait a couple days just to be on the safe side. See above regarding satin coating with Future.

>>6359601
Exquisite.

>>6358901
>leave it to set and then pull it out?
Yeah, you can leave it in for a few years to fully set.

But seriously, I don't know how long it would take for the glue to cure in an enclosed mold or even a deep half mold. Even if you did it in layers, would the new glue reactivate the dried glue?

>>6363966
Learn 3ds modeling first. Maybe after you have some "mastery" there will be new 3ds printers out. This thread/ board instead the best place to ask. Try /3/ and /gd/
Also check out fiverr you may want to offer your services to help finance you purchase it'll also force you to work on things you are comfortable with

>>6364423
Isn't the best*

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>>6363103
>Consider that you can hack off joints from almost any figure to cannibalize their joints, for instance using the knee joint of a GI Joe figure in the arm of a larger figure.
This seems obvious but it hadn't crossed my mind actually. Thank you for all the advice.

>>6362943
Was making sure the initial plan wasn't terrible before moving to look onto what joints would work best. I have some Hobby Search ones laying around and was considering some use of homemade ones like pic related though. Might look into getting some from GI Joes like mentioned above now too.

>>6353762
need jointed ganondorf pics

>>6364111
What is the best primer for actionfigures?

>>6364461
Okay, just remember that hard putties like milliput don't flex and can tear up joints if you try turning them at the peg. KwikPlastic putty is similar to some soft PVC plastics and can flex at tight holes for pegs. Sadly all the Walmarts and hardware stores near me are phasing it out of their inventories so I'll have to buy it all online now.

>>6365048
Oh thank you, was actually about to order some milli since it was cheap. I'll look into the kwiks instead.

Know that pain well, I have to buy online too.

>>6365264
Alternatively, you could drill a whole about twice the diameter, fill it with silicone caulk (clear would be best), stick a brass rod half the diameter of the joint peg into the wet silicone, let the silicone cure, and then remove the smooth brass rod to have a tight-gripping silicone ring in the hole to grip the peg. This way you get flex andcan still use the milliput.

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>>6364111
Thanks for replying, anon! I'll admit, I did a double-take when you suggested FLOOR POLISH as a top coat! But based on my googling, it's actually a common thing! Learn something new every day...guess I'm buying some paint thinner, primer and floor polish soon.

How long would you suggest letting the polish dry between thin coats?

As for the brushes, I'll admit I actually bought a Testors kit, which includes brushes similar to the one that came with the paints (one is a flat brush, which is the one I planned to use most). Should I bring it back and buy separate materials and better brushes?

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I haven't had much time to sew lately, but Sunflowmon is finally complete. I tried out the cinch-jointing method SquidAnon suggested, didn't go so well in the legs. I think the lower portions of the legs are just too narrow. It let me do a little thread sculpting on the arms though.

I also finally made a deviantart so I can easily share the patterns. Here's Sunflowmon's:
>http://toyhermit.deviantart.com/art/Sunflowmon-Plush-Pattern-v1-00-685328444
I posted an updated version of Monzaemon's pattern as well.
>http://toyhermit.deviantart.com/art/Monzaemon-Plush-Pattern-v1-02-685315278

I also finally secured some faux fur for Phascomon, I'll start the rough sketches tonight.

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>>6365637
Just make sure the bottle actually says "Future" on it. Here's a guide on the many uses of this magical substance.
>http://nswbgmodelling.airleague.com.au/PlasticModelPage/TheCompleteFuture.htm

The drying time will vary depending on local humidity. I usually wait about 6 hours between coats, then let the final coat dry for a couple days. If it's still tacky to the touch, it's not dry enough yet.

Paintbrushes that come in kits are generally total garbage. You don't need to return the kit, if it comes with a good range of paints for your project, just pick up some proper brushes too. The Gunpla General guide is a good starting point for a lot of your questions
>https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1Tr8UyF2Xg5Ojqw0sxcO7oIG7IIsJPes3lMO5pHZKu5o

>>6365723
I believe they don't have future on the bottle anymore.

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>>6365723
>>6365758
Just looked it up here in Canada-land, and we seem to carry the same product (Future is still on the bottle, though smaller).

>The 'Future uses' link
>add food coloring to it to dip 'dye' clear pieces
The cosplayer in me is intrigued by this. I was wondering what the hell I'd do with a full bottle of polish, but if I can use it for other purposes (besides it's original purpose, anyway), all the better!

I'll add 'better brushes' to my list too.

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>>6365789
The best dip dyeing job I've ever seen was this custom "gummyworm" zoid. I have no clue how this guy pulled off the amazing gradient.

>>6349917
It looks like brand new leather, my boots were that color when I got them. If you want it to look more weathered/worn add some lighter brown in spots.

>>6365800
I THINK it's done by putting each dye color in the center of the previous continuously, making a sort concentric rings of coloration, and then dipping the object in the very center slowly. I've seen a painting technique like that before, so it might work that way with dyes, but I could be wrong.

>>6365800
Damn, that's an incredible job: you'd never know it wasn't done in-factory!

Don't know how thick the polish is, but I'm wondering if he filled up a small trough-like container, and added the rainbow colors along the length of it before dipping the pieces in. It's the only way I can think of doing it without an obvious overlapping of coats...

I definitely need to play with this trick with cosplay accessories.

>>6354965
>>6344245
As if I missed a Robbie Reyes custom in this thread...he's looking amazing so far, anon! I actually have him on my own list of custom candidates (if my own 'first custom' experience works out), though I'm thinking more Tradd Moore's style.

Hope to see more WIP pics further down the line, and that my first custom goes half as well as yours is looking.

any good way to apply chrome effects to plastic without using electroplating?

>>6365872
I haven't used it myself, but I know Krylon has a metallic chrome spray and a 'looking glass' spray that may work the way you want. Not sure if they work on plastics, though, so definitely do a few tests first.

In the pic, left is Metallic Chrome and right is Looking Glass.

Another option may be silver-leafing? The risk of wrinkles and creases would be pretty high though, so if you want a smooth finish it's not the best choice.

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>>6365893
Damn it, forgot the pic.

>>6365866
Appreciate it man. Still zero progress because I've been putting off ordering a revo skelly on Mandy but a pre-owned one popped up on AmiAmi just now. I already have an order this month so thankfully I don't have to order this figure by itself. Customs fees have been kicking my ass lately, what the hell is going on with Canada Post? Anyway, whenever that comes in I'm going to try to finish this figure as soon as possible.

>>6353759
Jesus fuck, wouldn't be surprised if he used fucking scissors to cut the joints, look at the stress on the plastic

>>6365687
impressive work! Looks just like the character and the pattern looks very clean.

Does anyone make 1/12 3ds printed weapons? Like swords, sling shots?

>>6366235
You mean melee weapons, right? Because Little Armory does 1/12 firearms already. Is there a decent demand for 3D printed melee weapons?

>>6365723
I didn't see it in the article, would using this polish to seal paint on a figure make joints stick?

>>6366139
thanks man!

>>6366709
If you're the crafty type, you can make swords n shit out of plasticard.

>>6367363
Topcoating joints is a complete mystery to me. I've got no clue how it's done.

On a semi-related note, I hear a lot of people suggest Future for tightening loose joints. They say if you apply it, then move the joint around as it dries, it won't be immobilized.

>>6367363
Most likely yes. I would recommend using an actual spray coating like Krylons crystal clear or Matte or Tamiya's Clear or Matte coat. If your really concerned you can brush those on as well but it's very tricky.

>>6365687
You don't take commsions do you? I would pay good money for a Machinedramon plush as ridiculous as it would be.

>>6367602
I see you have good taste in digimon. Unfortunately I can't take commissions anytime soon.

I really wish we'd get a Machinedramon model kit, but nobody gets any merch besides wargreygarurumon and maybe the other protag digis if they're lucky.

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>>6365687
That looks fantastic, very clean and professional.

Here's some small progress on my Sabrina nendoroid from the last thread. I tried a rough colour mockup in Photoshop too. Some of the reds are a bit off. I recently got some poly putty so I've been trying that out. Getting a smooth, polishing surface is very time consuming.

What do you guys think of the placement of the black part of her belly? Should it stretch a bit lower?
In her reference she's very slender, but Nendoroids are a bit chubby by design (they ran in to this problem with their Rei Ayanami nendo).

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I've ordered a 1/35 Kettenkrad kit that comes with a few military dudes in uniform, and I've been thinking of modding them into the girls from the manga in pic related. Considering the size and their simplistic face features it shouldn't need too many details, but I still wonder if anyone knows any videos/progress blogs of someone sculpting a kind of round moe-like face and it actually looking decent in 3D.
Considering they're wearing uniforms that mostly hide their bodies the rest doesn't seem as problematic, mostly just a matter of shortening the torso, legs and arms a bit. I've just never sculpted a face so I'd like some references.

>>6366709
i would say theres a good amount of people who want regular swords

>>6364423
Thanks. I'll look into it.

>>6367677
I think the placement works, since it's part of the nendoroid aesthetic.

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Since Phascomon has very little official art, I'm kinda on my own for turning it into a 3d shape. Any critique on the body shape or proportions?

>>6367677
Thanks man, Sabrina's hair came out great. I don't think the black needs to go lower, but I think the upper corners (near the armpit) could be a tiny bit higher to follow the bust line better.

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>>6367945
>>6367821
Appreciate the feedback guys, thanks. With the upper corners a bit higher, do you mean like this?

So far his proportions look good! Big head and small fat thighs. And his expression is spot on. Like you said, it's actually hard to find reference to compare it to…

>>6367998
Yeah, that's what I meant. Although I don't think the center point needs to be increased as much.

Thanks! With these proportions, I have feeling this guy's not going to be able to hold his head up well, even with an armature. I suppose that's only appropriate for a lazy, stoned koala.

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I need some advice on my first project; I tried making a bow and arrow for Figma Link out of polymer clay. I made a frame out of a wire coat hanger and then covered in clay and did my best to end up with something that loosely resembles the sacred bow from Skyward Sword but I am not too convinced with my results. Can this one be redeemed and if so, how? Should I just make a second version? Also, what are some good tips for making weapons and accessories out of polymer clay?

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This is one of my first couple customs ive done. Didnt do an amazing job painting it, but it doesnt look too awful. Needed something to go along with botcon battletrap.

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Here is an idea I had

>Buy a blank female figma
>Spraypaint most of it dark blue, and then paint a few details
>Pop zero suit samus head on
>End up with a figure of sarah from virtua fighter


Does this seem relatively doable for someone who has never customized a figure before?

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>>6367707
These are 1/12 but hopefully helpful to you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqcNojZvogs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjdk6WHnUQ8

>>6367677
>>6367998
Looks good to me.

>>6368346
Using a wire armature is a good idea. You could also take a flat sheet of metal and print the bow on a sheet of paper or draw the bow on the metal and cut to shape.

From there, sculpt the white/blue part, lightly bake the clay before moving on. Now add the gold bits, you can add clay in layers and even cut away the open bits.

The key is to work patiently. A note on fingerprints in clay, you could wear gloves, or use a strong rubbing alcohol(90%) and brush the clay to smooth it out.

>>6368397
>Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.
Doable, take your time and work patiently. Although I don't know how compatible the heads are.

>>6368397
Why dont u just part swap the arms

>>6368463


Because I want to keep my zero suit Samus intact.

She comes with 2 heads you see, so I'll put one on my custom Sarah figure and keep the other on Samus.

>>6368397
You could even potentially dye the plastic. very very easy custom.

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I want to make a toy of /toy/'s biggest troll ever(even if he was bad at it), anyone got part recommendations?

>>6348473
I was actually discussing with my friend on how much we need a DeDeDe Figure. Keep up the great work man

>>6342271
cleaning white plastic would be usefull my white Hacks its already dirty and I only had it a couple of months

>>6368544
I'd rather see a ML-tier custom of Greg, honestly. And not simply the BAF Blob.

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>>6342268
>MFW my custom is featured in the OP image

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>>6345928
Enjoy:

https://www.seibertron.com/energonpub/combiner-wars-albatron-an-all-female-all-helicopters-combiner--t109106.php

By the way, my next project is to make an all animals / monsters combiner. Of course, the animals will still have their individual robot modes and the beasts themselves will be mecha-junker-hybrids. Kinda like pic related.

>>6368346
i think the bow is bigger isnt it?

>>6357891
what type of programming did you use? did you design it from scratch or did you start with a game model? Also what did you print with? material and printer

>>6369125
It is about the right size, it may be the camera angle.Anyways, I wasn't going for a 100% copy of the sacred bow, just more something that resembles it.

>>6368420
Thanks, the rubbing alcohol tip is great.

>>6369045
I really like the finish of the green paint.

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>>6369145

It's quite easy to do. I used basic Kryon chrome spray paint as a base coat. Then, Tamya clear green. With any clear colors over silver, you can have a wide variety of metallic effects depending if the silver have texture or not.

Be aware that the clear paint is actually made to go as the first coat INSIDE a clear RC car shell. This make that particular layer easy to peel off if you are not careful. Like it happen for my OC Sparkeater. It turn out to leave a cool "damaged" look though.

For more pictures and how he transform:
https://www.seibertron.com/energonpub/viewtopic.php?f=143&t=106184

I'll soon be obtaining a sewing machine, and have begun to receive nude 1/12 bodies that I've been ordering (a mix of 3A male, figma and SHF male and female bootleg) to do soft-goods superhero customs. I'm preparing for a long-haul of frustration and trial and error.

So far, my plans are to begin with basic tight-fit pants and shirts, and work up to unitards/onesies. I want to keep custom sculpts and paint as minimal as possible at the beginning. As far as specific characters go, my ideas are starting with:
Mike Allred's Madman (white costume and red/yellow costume)
Baron & Rude's Nexus
Invincible
Fantomex (female)
Atom Eve

Anyone have other ideas for teen/slender adult superheroes? I'm kind of thinking 90's Superboy or Amalgam Spider-Boy.

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>>6356477
Got delayed by other stuff so I didn't get a chance to get both out until today. Here's the comparison between both bodies (large bust top, xl bust bottom).

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WIP of a spawn violator, I'm taking liberties with the design a bit, ill be doing the same when I get around to my spawn custom.

The added leg and arm sections are still poseable, so is the horn. Im going to sand the scales off the head and make the jaw longer then of course add paint

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>>6369290

>>6369292
Also theres a crack in my phones camera so I cant get it to focus properly

>>6353426
THIN YOUR PAINTS

>>6369164
lessons learned: use clear coats when done.

>>6369290
>>6369292
where's that head from?

>>6369384
From one of the bossfight studio gorgon figures, the body is one of their blanks as well

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First time printing in FUD. I knew the details would be crisp but seeing my own model captured so precisely has still floored me.

Now it needs paint.

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>>6369464
>that face

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>>6369491
lol, yeah, still needs work in the design I guess.

>>6345928
>What's the bottom right one supposed to be?
Ryona from Senran Kagura. Letting the last top coat dry now. I should be able to post finished pics tomorrow if I'm not lazy. Paint job's pretty meh. Don't think I'll ever git gud at painting, but I'm very pleased with the sculpt.

>>6369464
Who is this supposed to be?

Just to clarify, are garage kits considered customs or would it better fit somewhere else?

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Personally I feel that it's can its own thing or at the very least can be lumped together with scale model building.

This artist here, I forget his name, basically kitbashed a new one of a kind figure.

>>6369646
Thank you, I wasn't searching for the right thread name and I missed it.

>>6369594
>>6369646
I thought garage kits belonged in the gunpla/plamo general. I would say kitbashing belongs here though.

Also holy shit that's some damn impressive furry degeneracy. Also some powerful nostalgia.

>>6369585
It's based on an OC I designed years ago.

>>6369464
Damn If I was a time traveler I would've warned you printing in transparent is not recommended. Unless you are a super painter. Assuming this is a self project you'll be fine though.

>>6369594
One of the reasons I think rule 2 needs to be changed is that by a strict reading, most garage kits are technically banned. (Oh but recasts are fine because those are technically Chinese figurines, not Japanese.)

That said, here or the scale model thread most likely. Or if it's an add on or property, you can go to that thread. Like the shinki thread discusses shinki and FAG gks all the time.

>>6369932
Yeah, it's a personal project/test print. I have Elastoplastic parts for the head being printed right now. The face plate does the opposite of a typical figma's with the face plate having a slot-peg that plugs into the head itself.

As for paint, I'll be practicing on copies of the face to get the hang of it first.

>>6369646
Damn… she looks good.

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I'm planning a custom Transformers Minerva Transtector to use with the upcoming Minerva head in the Legends EX God Ginrai box set. I'm using Animated Jazz as a base body.
Does this design look alright? Basically I want to move the car door panel from the forearm and have it connected to the shoulder piece by a little swivel arm so it still sits in the correct place in vehicle mode.

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>>6370188
Also what's the best way to deal with these arm parts, just drill them out? The exhaust/nunchuck part will be getting removed entirely so I'll only need the center hole on the door intact to put a new rivet/screw in.

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Anyone here work in Vinyl?

Just wondering if these print marks will show up if I cast it in vinyl, tried my best to sand it down but they run pretty deep.

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I don't normally make customs, but I thought I'd submit this for judgement.

Background: I preordered the P-Bandai riot control stormtrooper from a proxy service, paid in advance via Paypal. When it finally arrived it was a hot mess of QC issues, and presumably realising it had just gone six months, the proxy people just stopped replying to my emails when I asked if they could do anything about it. Eventually I gave up and just stuffed the thing in its box down the back of a bookcase.

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>>6370210
The other day I found it again while looking for a book, and decided to do something about it.

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>>6370215

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>>6370217

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>>6370219

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>>6370220

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>>6370222

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>>6370223

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>>6370226

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>>6370228

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>>6370233
My original plan was to replace the figure with a stock FO stormtrooper and leave the equipment untouched, I'm now thinking it'd be fun to weather the shield and baton too.

I really enjoyed working this figure over, I'm tempted to make more. Any feedback welcomed.

>>6370215
looks good desu

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Nearly ready for some sanding

>>6370235
It looks pretty great. Kind of like he spent the day in the trash compactor. Got tips on your process?

>>6370509
is that suppose to be skull kid?

>>6370208
>Just wondering if these print marks will show up if I cast it in vinyl
Of course they will, it doesn't really matter what you're casting in, they'll show up.

Sand and fill and sand and fill and sand. There's also the steamy acetone technique(but I think that's only for PLA).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRAlMoCPECs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it4TtlCp3I4

>>6370215
Really good weathering.

>>6369464
Geeezus

>>6370745
Acetone is for ABS. Nothing "safe" reacts with PLA

>>6370777
Fuck, I had it backwards
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/17897-vapor-treating-how-to-smooth-pla-or-abs-prints

>A solvent (high concentration acetone for ABS, chloroform for PLA)

>>6370188
>>6370191
Pls respond

>>6370744
Eventually

>>6370891
looks good anon

>>6370394
>>6370525
>>6370745
Thanks. Process is relatively straightforward, just time-consuming. About a day's work.

>Dismantled figure into legs, mid torso, chest and arms (they wouldn't pull out of their sockets), shoulder pads, neck, head
>Fixed broken knee joint, reattached broken belt pouch, permanently glued kneepads in place
>Used Vallejo black and white to touch up paint imperfections on helmet, gloves, etc
>Used blu-tac sculpted with a dental tool to mask the glossy lenses and metal insert on helmet
>Attached all the various sub-assemblies to corks and blocks of wood with large balls of blu-tac
>Topcoated figure with thin layer of Tamiya Flat Clear from a rattlecan
>Left it to dry for a couple of hours
>Tore up some cosmetic sponges into little squares
>Dipped rough corners in Vallejo basalt grey, sparingly applied it to all edges of armour that might rub or contact with each other or the environment
>Cleaned off any excess with a white pencil eraser (do this gently or it'll lift the topcoat too)
>Applied AK D.a.K enamel wash to armour, into panel lines and recesses and also painted some lines for streaking (this looks like a complete mess when it's finished, but stick with it)
>Took a clean brush and white spirits and worked the dried wash into the surface of the armour
>Applied the streaking wash from the same AK set to certain areas in vertical lines, then again blended it in with a clean brush and white spirits
>Applied a light grey AK wash to the gloves and boots, again blending it in with white spirits once it had dried
>Sparingly applied some Tamiya sand-coloured weathering powder to armour, cleaned away any areas that looked excessive with a brush dried in white spirits
>Left it to cure for 24 hours
>Applied a second coat of Flat Clear, reassembled, carefully removed blu-tac masks from helmet
>Finishing touch of drop of Citadel Nuln Oil wash applied to metal plug on front of helmet

I think that's everything.

>>6352714
I usually don't think 3.75 inch scale customs work well but that's a really good job, congrats

so where can i buy joints? I looked up "figma joints" on ebay and they're all from china. are they legit? looking for 1/12 scale

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>>6372292
I got mine from hobbylink japan

>>6372328
okay thanks

>>6372292
The Hobby Base joints from china are legit. Don't worry about that detail. Ordered several packs over the year and all were good.

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Finally as done as I can get her. Say something mean to her!

Didn't do a great job with the paint job or the eye decals, but every time I tried fixing or changing something, it ended up looking worse. With her real scale coming soon, I figured enough was enough. I'm still very happy with the sculpt, though. Enough so that I might recast it and try painting again when I have a week off or something.

I'm very happy with the collar as well. Happy enough that I might make a few more for other toys, actually. I made up 6 faces and 2 collars. This is the only face that I'm especially happy with, though most of the other five are at least passable. The ballgag one didn't turn out well at all though.

All in all, I'm happy enough considering my skill level, and at the very least, I learned a lot from doing it. I think I'm still a ways off from opening a shop, but I'll stick with it and hope I improve enough that I can start my own line of tiny robot girls soon.

Maybe a dumb idea but I bought some "industrial plasticine", not sure how it translates to english but it's this grey clay-like putty used to model, and I was going to use it to sculpt stuff before making molds of the pieces using Oyumaru.
Is Oyumaru soft enough when heated that it won't put any pressure over it?

does anyone know where I can find 3d models of action figure parts or accessories?
my googlings have been disappointing to say the least

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Just a kind of heads-up. These 5"-6" 4POA Star Wars figures (Han, Vader, Kanaan, Luke) at Big Lots seem to have been marked down from $6 to $1.75 or $4.75. I got Luke here for $1.75 to donate his head, hands, and boots to some 3A bodies. And if I find that the rest are similarly priced tomorrow, I'll just pick up the rest of the stock at my local Big Lots. Seems like adequate custom fodder.

>>6373500
Plasticine is a clay that gets softer the warmer it gets until it melts (kinda like candle wax). I have no experience with oyumaru, but don't you have to heat oyumaru to soften it? If it's too warm it'll easily deform the clay and you'll lose details and shapes.

Invest in silicone. If you don't feel confident in making a mold using liquid silicone, get some silicone putty from your local craft stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby. You mix equal amounts of both putties in the kit until they're evenly blended and then apply them to the plasticine to harden. To play it safe, freeze the clay for about 20min first, take it out, and then mix and apply the silicone putty (plasticine clay gets stiff when cold).

>>6373790
It's more like the modelling clay used in school but grey and shit. I haven't tested it against heat but I figure Oyumaru needs to go about 80ºC to start getting soft; maybe I'll test if this plasticine thing gets really soft after being put into hot water.

Now, I'm looking for options to resin/silicone casting because I don't want to use silicone and resin if I can help it.
The first because I'm really autistic about having molds I'm not going to use more than once laying around and the latter because I don't have the working space to work and touch up something like resin.

>>6373649
where can I get those boots you have on that blank body?

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Man, what a shit first try. The clay is really annoying to handle, the oil gets all sticky and shit, to be expected but yeah. I'll try again but plan the shape before going in; beats trashing perfectly good epoxy trying.
Any advice for sculpting with plasticine?

>>6374008
They're standard on the 1/12 Plumes by ThreeA. They come on a few other Action Portable figures as well, like most Zombs, some of the Adventure Kartel crew, 10 Finger Gang, etc. You might be able to find parts for sale on eBay or KidRobot, but it's more likely that you'll hae to buy one of the above figures to get it. I haven't seen too many loose AP boots for sale.

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Couple of 1/6 Post apoc survivors / Hunters I have been working on

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Really like how this guy turned out

>>6374072
>grown man thinks he can sculpt Transformers heads on his first try

How about years of practice first eh senpai?

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First attempt at a 3D printed figure complete. Lots of shit I have to improve the next time. Investing and going to learn airbrushing. Should've spend more time with the resin coat. Should've spent more time sanding. 2nd run I'll actually send the model into Zbrush or Mudbox to add texture to his trim and waist band. Still need to experiment more with shoulder and wrist articulation.

Anyone ever dye hobby base joints before?

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Easy question, hopefully.
What type of glue would work best to hod two pieces of a Figma part together?
The skirt piece here is 2 parts, the upper and lower(which has the jointed pieces). The lower piece became detached. I tried regular super glue but the bod didn't seem to be that strong. The pieces are soft PVC I believe. Is there something better I should use? Something that will fuse the 2 halves together without damaging anything?

>>6374072
You want to use something much firmer than that clay. Look up castilene (sp?)
Beyond that it's practice, practice, practice.

>>6374174
>anybody ever dye hobby base joints before?

Yeah, long story short is that it can be done but consistent results are going to be hard, if not impossible. Even in the same batch of dye, same amount of time in the mix, etc, I've never gotten 2 joints to dye exactly the same shade.

>>6374174
>>6374203
I used a fabric dye for synthetics and my best results came from adding a good amount of acetone to a near boiling mix. All the joints were cleaned ahead of time to get off any kind of mold release, and like I said they still didn't dye consistently. The best results took about an hour and I stirred them the entire time, it's maddening and the effort isn't worth the results. If you can come up with something that works let us know.

>>6374072
For something as angular as a Transformers head you'd probably be better off building it up in layers of sheet styrene, or carving it out of something, then casting it in resin than trying to sculpt it out of a putty.

>>6374008
>>6374074
At the risk of losing out on future deals: I got four nude bodies, one pair boots, and two pair of Plume hands on eBay from two different sellers (one was 3A_parts). All together with shipping I spent $86 (two bodies were more expensive than others). The boots were $10. Which is why I was excited to find these cheap-ass Star Wars figures that are just the right size to harvest parts from.

>>6374159
I-i didn't thought I could actually achieve it you know?

>>6374200
>castilene
Is it that the one that needs to be heated to get soft?
I almost bought that thing but the seller explained to me that's how it worked but I don't have anything to heat it at hand. Maybe I could get something like a bunsen burner or a hair drier, idunno.

>>6374214
I'm not on the US or another hobby-friendly country. I would use those if I could find them or import them.

>>6370188
>>6370191
Please anyone I'd like to start working on this but don't want to fuck up the arm.

>>6374096
joel?

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Here are my latest 2 customs. These alright?

>>6374393
>>castilene
>Is it that the one that needs to be heated to get soft?

Yes, but you can also carve it like wax, which is most of what you'll be doing. Microwave works for heating it up.

>>6374952
This is going to sound weird but I don't have a microwave.
Would putting it under a lamp or using a hair dryer on it work?
Also, how much heat would it stand before getting soft enough as to giving in small pressure? I still plan on using the Oyumaru on it.

>>6370235
Looks awesome, but what exactly was wrong with is in the first place?

>>6374836
clone looks dope
knight chain mail looks kinda wrong?
shield is too perfect

>>6374970
hair dryer would work but it would take some time, I don't have numbers in front of me but it needs to get hotter than say 120 degrees Fahrenheit, and the heat needs to be fairly even

do you own a toaster oven by chance?

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>>6374072
Don't worry, everybody's first try is shit.

I suggest using a firm polymer clay like Fimo, and prebaking each part as it's finished, so you can add on the next part (helmet, lips ect) without damaging the sculpt.

Here's a bunch of sculpting tutorials I just found, haven't gone through the whole site yet, but there's probably something to help you
>http://sculptingtutorials.blogspot.com/

>>6374952
I'm reading up on this castilene shit now. It sounds pretty cool.
>http://www.castilene.com/smocreations/smocreations.pdf
>http://sculptingtutorials.blogspot.com/2011/12/casteline-hair-sculpting-tutorial-by.html

>>6373862
>I'm really autistic about having molds I'm not going to use more than once laying around
You can cut up the mold when done, then use it to fill out space the next time you make a mold. Otherwise, if you do a good enough job, you can sell copies of the head you cast.

>>6374072
Not too bad for a first try, but I thought you were going to go with an epoxy. Since it's mostly geometric shapes, you can work on each part separately and put them together when each part is perfect.

>>6374393
>>6374970
>Would putting it under a lamp or using a hair dryer on it work?
Yes. If it's legal in your country, get 100 Watt bulbs.

http://www.chavant.com/castilene/index.html
>Soften with a variety of heat sources including heat lamps, hot boxes, crock pots, microwave oven, hot water or double boiler. DO NOT USE A DIRECT FLAME. Avoid heating above 210 °F(99 °C) or air bubbles may result. Castilene can be melted and poured at 170-180 °F(76-82 °C). The strength and light weight of Castilene allows sculpting without a wire armature in many cases.

Video about making a hot box using a lamp as a heat source.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_ggVQ6mxLI

>>6374094
>>6374096
Cool beans, Shady.

>>6376363
>hot water or double boiler

Oh, right, I forgot about that. I've stuck some in a plastic bag and boiled it before, it works well.

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Never done any repainting before, but the abomination on this Lady Death figure's face is bothering me. What are the minimum requirements I need to paint something more accurate to her comic book face?

I'm in Southeast Asia so material recommendations may vary.

>>6376592
Sorry to tell you this bro but that sculpt is a nightmare and the eyes are just the bonus

>>6376650
Surely the eyes can still be repainted

>>6376592
You should look up Monster High repainting tutorials, they should point you in the right direction.

I want to try using ink to paint the parts most susceptible to paint scratching on a transformer. Talking with a friend about painting figures he mentioned something about some Iron Man he had bought custom that used ballpen ink for panel lining and how it would wear down for anything so that gave me the idea.

I just want to know if ink could damage plastic in the long run.

>>6376854
*Iron Man custom he had bought

>>6376854
*how it wouldn't wear down

Jesus christ I'm practically asleep.

>>6369464
Talk about UHHHHHHHHGLY

>>6376887
Yeah, the next one will stick to a much more anime-styled face (especially the nose). I was trying to go for a semi-realistic face design but, well...not sure at what point I fucked up but I clearly did. Lesson learned.

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So I'm working on a Gwendy from Small Soldiers. Since I couldn't for the life of me find a head to use that actually looked like the dolls from the film, I opted for the one headless model for my custom. Using a Made to Move Barbie as the base, already sanded off the panties, and got the neck assembly made from some parts at the hardware store. Painting on the bikini, adding some halloween wound decals for the burns and scratches, and I'll be adding some random attachments and scrap to make her look genuine. Might do acetone on the stomach really quickly with a Q-tip to make her skin shiny again too. She's creepy, but that's my intention. Please no bully.

>>6374072
If your copying it why not make a female mould from epoxy putty first and a male casting from clay, which you could then resculpt?

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>>6377392
I'd love to but I don't have anything similar to pic related at hand.
I'll do that for a Might Gaine TM, long story as for why, using TR Perceptor though.

It's been 5 fucking days would someone please help me with this it can't be that hard surely.

>>6370188
>>6370191

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>>6369292
Heres the finished product, if you want to see more pictures I posted them in the 1:18 general here >>6377851 I'm more likely to see comments/questions there but ill try to check this thread

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So I had an idea for customizing a Combiner Wars Cyclonus into a Megatron. Megatron that turns into giant Galvatron, thoughts?

Is there a safe way to disassemble and paint a Body-Kun figuarts?
I recall the dumb designers spamming pins into the thing.

>>6379133
Ah, that's clever. Will you repaint it white/grey. Meaning it would be comics/toy Galvatron?

>>6379401
I think I'll do it so the Megatron mode is silver and black, but try to keep the shells and panels in place so that Galvatron is purple. I think that might be interesting.

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>>6374072

i dont know how poor your country/region/particular economic situation is, but for something angular and precise like a robot head i recommend you to 3D model it and the 3d print it. If you cant afford a 3D printer or a 3D printer service i reccomend you to use some material and carve it out of it, like some kind of foam, a lot of hobby materials are not made for hobbyism in particular, you could use polystyrene foam, those weird green foam cubes people use for flower decorations or even use a chunk of hard clay and start carving it out and use that to make a mold and then cast it in other material. Just use some kind of reference and a ruler or calipers to keep the proportions right.

We all suck at our first try, just keep doing it until you are satisfied and be open to criticism.

And use your imagination.

>>6374836

i like them, but the knight's shield looks too plain and the fabric that is supossed to be his chain mail looks a bit glittery.

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Altered the digi-bash just a little more, I think this is what I'll shoot for. It'll make minimum changes to the combine mode Galvatron, the jet mode will look like a seeker, and then Megatron mode looks pretty solid, eh?

>>6342271
Id like some tips for doing repaints.
I just got this legends Scoop in a clearance sale and the paintjob on his head is terrible.
I have the right paints and brushes already.

Do you remove the old paintjob first?
Use a primer?

>>6370188
>Does this design look alright?
Sure, why not? If it works and you like it, that's all that matters.

>>6370191
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo8FLxTtTJ4

Time for round 2.

>>6369128
Missed this post.
Used a Lulzbot Mini with Cura Lulzbot edition.
It's a ripped model from Smash Bros Brawl with some heavy modifications and optimization for printing. It's ABS.

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Damn photo didnt upload.

>>6380884
Oh man those obitsu balls are ass, the pin holding them together is too small and every single one I've got has busted. Do you have the same problem?

>>6381438
Ha-vent tried them but cheap so why not. Still experimenting with shit. I've actually had that problem with the mini Hobby Base joints.Trying to remove them from tight sockets.

>>6380872
Thanks mate that video helps a lot.

What's your favorite place to get custom fodder?

>>6370509
any updates on this?

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So I picked up an SHF Ryu and I really want to recolor it into the evil color scheme.

I have it disassembled and I was thinking to just spraypaint the parts and hit it up with a (semi?)flat top coat, but I'm concerned with the paint scraping off on the harder plastic knee joints and wearing off on the softer pvc sections.

Is there a specific type of paint or top coat I should use to make sure I get a solid finish?

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where would I start with a custom for this? SS Link legs? what figma would have that top?

>>6386554
EBay.

>>6386662
acryllic paint, and considering sanding joints down to prevent paint rub

>>6386662
How disassembled is it? Cause like...if you can get it apart to the point where you have the soft gi parts entirely separated, I would probably dye those instead of painting.

Butterfingers retard here, how do I stand evenly and make surfaces flat without curves and shit? I'm useless at sanding.

In particular, I'm sanding styrene and Tamiya epoxy putty, and both files and sandpaper hate that stuff.

Any tips for good sanding sticks, good Dremel sanding bits, or how to just do it well with regular sandpaper without making a curvy mess would be greatly appreciated.

Also, any tips for marking and scribing styrene and other parts in a straight line would be appreciated. I have a t-square, a compass and a ruler (all metal) but I can't keep anything still to save my life. I've thought about using masking tape to hold stuff in place but I haven't tried it yet and I'm not sure how best to secure it.

>>6365637
The paintbrushes in the Testors and Airfix kits are really really terrible. And they never have enough thinner, for thinning paints and for cleanup. Or at all.

As for just that hobby knife, it's not enough and perhaps, a lot of people who pick up that set, get the idea you're supposed to saw through the runners with that knife to get the pieces out. Really bad idea.

what brand of paint is most flexible/ resistant to flaking? I'm thinking of painting a figure that has a couple of rubbery extremities

>>6388285
Tamiya is probably the strongest paint you can easily buy at retail. Rubbery parts might flake anyway though...I would really recommend you dye them instead if possible.

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Got in a yard of new squids, I heavily modified the pattern and messed with theproportions, gotta see if people like the new versions. I'm also expecting a yard of goldfish to start, I'll post them when I have some sewn up.

I don't have much to show, I've been busy at work on NDA'd stuff. Christmas will be awesome, though.

Would hand brushing be a good way to get an acceptable fur texture? If not, what's another good way?

I have a gk I've been putting of painting for ages.

>>6389417
What are you making? Drybrushing is generally the way to go for heavily textured stuff like fur. If you're talking about creating a fur-like texture on a flat surface, I'd sculpt some fur in putty before painting it.

>>6389180
Nice, looking forward to seeing these sewn up.

Do you have any pattern-making books you recommend? It's hard to find books that go into the geometry of designing your own patterns, most of them just contain premade ones.

>>6374195
Zap-A-Gap. Then you can hot glue her to your heart's desire. :-P

>>6387804
>how do I stand evenly and make surfaces flat without curves and shit?
Sanding block.

>any tips for marking and scribing styrene and other parts in a straight line
You can clamp your straight edge to your project(better than tape), and angle the blade slightly towards your metal edge. If you're still having trouble with the blade veering off, I suppose you could use both your t-square and ruler to make a channel for your blade. My best tip is to not move the blade with your fingers or wrist, like when you are writing, but to use your shoulder and elbow.

Remember the advice of professional model makers(I'm talking Lucasfilm and shit), sandpaper and x-acto blades are cheap, replace them if they get gummed up or dull.

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>>6389659
"making" is a strong word, but I got my hands on a Karin garage kit and figured it was easy enough that I won't make it look like garbage.

>>6389664
Honestly? I haven't found one, but the way I go about 3D modeling with lofts is very similar to how I go about drafting patterns. Front and side views, with 'guide curves' (in patterns, darts fill a similar function). I'm teaching a classmate pattern drafting later this summer so I'll try to document that.

Newbie here, what's the best material to make a detailed face on? I want to make a couple of models that look like me and my wife for our anniversary. To be entirely honest, I have no idea were to start...

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I got a Death Star Commander, and his arm is faulty and falls out. I was thinking of just custom building him a prosthetic, any tips?

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Just wanted to post this pic I found on twitter here, because I thought it was cool and appropriate. I was also wondering how he made those faces, because they look pretty professional looking imo

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>>6391880
Whoops, didn't realise how shitty the image quality was until I posted it. Here's a better one

>>6390977
For the original (which you can mold and recast), start first by getting some plasticine clay and making the basic dimensions of the head with extra mass. Next, mold and recast using KwikWood epoxy putty (use either a light dusting of talcum/baby powder in the mold prior to the Kwikwood). Let harden for 2hrs, remove, then let fully-cure for 36-48hrs (depends on humidity of where you live). Fully cured Kwikwood will be bone-dry, meaning sanding or scraping an x-acto blade across its surface will produce a fine powder easily. Begin carving with an x-acto knife (get plenty of spare blades), chiseling out impressions and sanding with medium to superfine grit depending on the finish desired. Once fully carved, lightly dust with talcum powder and make a new mold of the complete face, recasting in your choice of epoxy, resin, etc.

Kwikwood can be found at Walmart and home improvement stores in the adhesives or paint aisles.

For an epoxy that mimicks soft pvc, look for KwikPlastic epoxy putty. More crumbly than real plastic, but has some flex and roughly the same working and gardening time as Kwikwood)minus the 36/48hr bone-drying).

>>6391927
*hardening time, derp

Also, KwikPlastic can be found at some hardware stores and Walmarts (though all the Walmart's around my area have phased it out of the inventories). Both epoxy putties can be found online too.

For molds, use either liquid silicone mixture with a boxed-in surrounding wall or use silicone putty (hand mixed silicone).

>>6391880
>I was also wondering how he made those faces

idk man, there's no secret technique to it, do you mean the painted eyes? he has a steady hand, idk
the sculpt? he can sculpt
why do you dudes always think there's some magic trick to this? just practice, you'll be able to do this if you want to

>>6392582
>>6392582
>>6392582
NEW THREAD
NEW THREAD
NEW THREAD
>>6392582
>>6392582
>>6392582

>>6389785
Thanks anon. About clamping, what sort of clamp should I be using? Is there one I can get to place on my desk, or should I just use a standard C-clamp and hang my pieces off the edge of my desk so I can clamp them that way?

I always keep lots of spare blades on-hand, so that hopefully shouldn't be a problem.

Guess I'll have to go find a sanding block now. I don't think I've ever seen them for sale but I'll look regardless, unless it's better to just make my own (though I feel like it'd be better to get a pre-made one if I can).