Scale Model General

>>6315762
What a wonderful image for the OP.
[spoiler]not[/spoiler]

>>6315789
least their breasts are perky

>>6315762
I don't understand how people can do that, and want to take pictures and show it off. It has to be done on purpose, I can't think of any other excuse.

>>6315842
never underestimate the stupidity of idiots

>>6315842
I would accept it if it was done by either a 10 yo or a 60+ year old without internet access.

>>6315739
Short answer is that I doubt that they did that and pics exist if they did.
The real answer is that there are two main approaches to a project:
One would be historical accuracy where references of said vehicle, unit, theater of operations, etc are thoroughly researched and reproduced to the best one's abilities and rivet counting madness can ensue.
The second one is telling your story, which my be based on your interpretation of a real tank for example or just loosely based.
The E-50 in >>6314875 as they didn't existed apart from the tracks and some hulls can be used to represent something real so it all falls on whatever the builder wanted to do, and blue with yellow stripes contrasts nicely and transmit that "field applied" easily that fits his whole build (I doubt they rolled around in red primer, and if they did it wasn't for too long as they would painted when they could for sure) of something picked up and used in a desperate defense with veteran units and new equipment.

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>be trumpeter
>decide to make 72nd scale tanks
>lets make the tracks and wheels into one piece
>nah, this is retarded, lets make them as a set of wheels and the track
>lets make the front row of wheels along with the idle and drive wheels one with the track and have the rear set of wheels as different pieces
>brilliant

>>6315878
I can kinda follow them up to the last step, but yeah, inner wheels separate instead of the outer ones is... unintuitive.

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Painted some instruments in and gloss coated the cockpit parts. Decals are next.

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>>6315762
Wow, there's actually someone out there who does an even worse job of painting figures than I do.

>>6315762

Just to inform you, the swannysmodels link isn't working. The entire thing might be removed, I'm not sure. In any case, posting dead links seems pointless.

Thanks to the guy who posted the weathering mag. Feeling very inspired

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>tfw Academy box art tricked you into thinking the paint scheme was fully silver

>>6316607
You know you have to paint models right?

>>6315878
IS-7? Either way, it looks pretty accurate for 1:72. It's not going to be difficult to paint either, so long as you have a steady hand

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>>6316673
Yes I do. I just didn't expect to have to paint a white nose precisely on the line of a little sliver of red decal so it separates evenly from the rest of the fuselage.

>>6316936
The details are good and sharp, but it is a very barebones kit.
The merchants at trumpeter didn't even bother to add tow cables and headlight covers. The tow hooks are a solid slab that you need to drill (and I ducking lost my 1,5 mm drillbit).
Everything bar the headlights is moulded in the turret or hull.
I am still trying to figure out why they decided to cast the front row of wheels and tracks as one piece and the rear ones as separate.

>>6317027
you could just replace the decal with masking and just paint the red instead of using the decal. That would be easiest and best looking imo, since you'd be painting red on a white base (the ideal situation to be painting red)

>want to build a 1/350 ship but dont have room for a giant fucking model

Feels bad man

What kind of tank tracks are the easiest to deal with?

I haven't built any tanks before so I figured I should get a kit that isn't super complicated in that regard.

>>6317385
Easiest are probably the vinyl ones. They don't look very good though. (It works just fine if the tank has sideskirts that cover up the whole tracks though).

2nd easiest are the so called link-and-length tracks. Usually the straight sections of the track come as long plastic parts while around the drive- and idlerwheel the "curve" is done with smaller parts and/or single track links.

And then there are the single-link tracks from various manufacturers in various materials. Some are terrible, some are great. They require alot of work though.

>>6317385
If you want to get into tanks, i recommend starting with either old Tamiya 1/35 kits (you can spot those by their price. Usually below $20). Not the greatest kits on the market these days since they are around 40 years old, but for a beginner they are absolutely fine.
Tracks on these will be vinyl/rubber.

Or you could check the new-ish Tamiya 1/48 range. These kits were all released in the 2000s and aren't overly complicated in general. They come with length and link tracks.
Price is also around 20 so you won't waste alot of money if you figure that tanks aren't for you. (Don't worry, tanks are fun).

>>6317385
In 1/35? Probably vinyl. Friuls cost a bit and take some time, but are pretty easy too. Non-working, non-snap individual links are probably the worst you can run into, though perhaps some of the more complex multi-part workable tracks could come close.

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Finished my Elefant i posted in an earlier thread.

>>6317392
>>6317396
>>6317397

Thanks for the replies. I think I read somewhere that vinyl/rubber tracks are difficult to paint, is that true?

I fancy building something non-military for a change, without breaking the bank. What's a nice, relatively new kit I could look into?

>>6317564
There are some nice and interesting star wars kits out there. Zvezdas Star Destroyer for example.

>>6317504
Depends on the manufacturer/ the type of vinyl. If it's a more modern kit, chances are that you get some easy to paint material. Older tracks are mostly straight up rubber and that's a pain to work with.

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>>6317598
>tfw i'm working on old airfix kit atm
>tfw nothing want to stick to these piece of shit rubber tracks

>>6317420
Its ok but looks very rough

>>6317604
>>6317598
I found that Vallejo/Mig primers works best for me when dealing with vinyl tracks.
Since the primer itself has also somewhat of a rubber-y consistency, it sticks and hold well to the vinyl without flaking off even when you bend it or twist it.

>>6317564
Cars

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i opened this airfix kit months ago and started it but then got distracted and it's been sitting since and now parts are missing and i have to scratch build a nose turrent somehow

>>6317751
>turrent
please
PLEASE

>>6317754
it was a typo, i'm using a different keyboard layout than normal

is brass wire harder to bend than copper?

lead wire is too soft, copper is too elastic is there something in between?

>>6318184
Yea, I think so. Maybe aluminum?

>>6318184
Brass should be harder than. Dunno about the elasticity.

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>>6316607
>tfw Academy box tricked you into thinking you were going to get what it showed on the box

Never trust the Korean plastic merchant.

>>6317790
>turret
>turrent
n is far away from any of those keys in the rest of the word not to mention it's an additional letter.

>>6318420
>buying shitty kits
Why? There are plenty of good 1/72 F-16 kits on the market

>>6318582
>poor people outnumber rich people

>>6317790
switching to dvorak hey?

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>>6317604
said kit before weathering and other shit
i think that guy who invented these type of tracks have his special place in hell

>>6318704
1/76? They're not bad for this scale and they can easily be glued with super glue. I had those tracks on my 1/72 Emhar Male Mk.IV

>>6318629
Is 15-20€ expensive?

>>6318711
yes. and i was talking more about the fact that neither acrylic or enamel won't properly stick to this rubber vinyl or whatever material this is.
also check'd

>>6318719
I primed the entire kit with Alclad grey primer and it worked fine. Thought I primed the wheels on 1/35 Trumpeter LAV-25A2 and the primer just flaked off. I washed the tires beforehand. Should have just painted them with acrylic paint or Vallejo primer because it's rubbery when it dries.

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>>6318737
>Should have just painted them with acrylic paint or Vallejo primer because it's rubbery when it dries.
that's exactly what i did.

What do you guys like to use for references when painting and modelling?

>>6318753
The internet

>>6318753

My imagination

>>6318753
6 gigs of pirated books

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>>6318760
Source?

>>6318761
>google
>[book tittle].pdf
>lurk a bit
>?
>PROFIT(sometimes)
>rinse and repeat 6 gorillion times

Do you have any recommendations on comfy model channels on youtube?

>>6318777

I enjoy these:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsT2xklsU6SYvdL6ClNYRUQ
(he paints only though)

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC53hZgZPlQmKWFRFSpxbSxw

https://www.youtube.com/user/ModelloursWorkshop/videos

>>6318777
I like Quick Kits

pls no bully

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WIP number 5 billion. Expect to see this finished never. 1/72 Tamiya P-51D

>>6318842
>PLASMO

Muh Man.

Also: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2UPftBhkCUwQyCGSQxCbNQ

But NEVER: https://www.youtube.com/user/qdc748a

>>6319056

1/72? Great looking IP and seat.

>>6318582
Impulse buy because it was dirt cheap and I wanted to test my new USAF paint set. If I had really wanted to build a 1/72 F-16 I'd have rolled with the Tamiya version.

Still, it's a pretty shitty thing to show a picture of an F-16 in the standard Ghost/Gunship Grey low vis camo and then package in the box decals for a prototype sky blue paint scheme that was used for all of a few months in the late 70s on the prototype YF-16. The worst part is that the photos of the actual model on the side of the box shows photos of Academy's 1/48 F-16A, which actually does have the scheme shown on the box.

Oh well, I guess the old adage is always true.

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>>6318509

>>6319058
>But NEVER: https://www.youtube.com/user/qdc748a

I was gonna ask someone to post him but I couldn't remember if he was Asian or black.
turns out hes both

>>6318777
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChnAgeghaNKLdftbfJY8zNA

i kinda like this guy

>>6318777
I like this guy but he hasn't uploaded anything in a while
https://www.youtube.com/user/MakingModelsAgain

>>6318842
>>6319058
>>6319153
>>6319188
>balding middle aged man with zero personality other than knowing lots of military history.
>poor camera work, scripting and sound

Only PLASMO isnt any of those, but he is eastern European and listening isn't as comfortable as listening to a native english speaker

>>6319202
>talking shitty about Garry
Fuck you

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>>6319056
Joining the crew of never finished wip. I should really finish the tiran-5 for a reddit group build (PE on the motorbay to finish the hull for priming, friuls and some random paint finishing details on the turret) and the king tiger has been waiting for priming ages, but I just cant be arsed to prepare the wheels, tracks, etc for painting.

Been working on warhammer quite a bit tho. I'm doing a small vignette for a flgs competition, pic related.
Although I think I'm a bit overkill with those poor lads but maybe I get some great surprise with some awesomely painted stuff from others, I will get to chat with someone that knows his/her shit at last.
Still need to put the water and some stuff in the base and a ton of work on the white armor guy but pretty close to finishing it this week I think.

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>>6319283
my current WIPs
1/72 Sabre and Bf 110
I'm really having a hard time buffing the fucking metalcote finish for the sabre, I just keep stripping the paint off and I got tired of it and decided to just scrap it away and repaint it after redoing the panel lines since all the buffing and repainting made them almost invisible
the 110 was a botched camo masking case and I had to strip down all of the previous attempt in order to repaint
basically, I'm back on square one with the painting for both
this is a fun hobby

>>6319373
>reddit
Why do our best modellers move to reddit?

>>6319373
I haven't messed with it too much, but there are "metal plating powders" you can try using as an alternative. You can just rub the stuff onto a black primer and you'd supposedly get a pretty smooth metallic coat.
Or maybe take a look at how model car people get their shine by polishing a clear coat.

>>6319933
Well, I mostly have this thread open in the background and then enter the subreddit when I'm bored.
Both places have their highs and lows, the main problem here is that is really slow and not very "popular" as it's in a even slower (and hard to relate to scale modeling, I found this place randomly last year for example) board.
The subreddit has a ton of people and movement and for things like groupbuilds, doubts on pm, and stuff like that is great. The overall level is lower and I swear to god if I see another point farming post of some shitty YouTube vid or a "recomend me X" I'm gonna kill some bitch, also people vote comments on a almost random way.
Personally I find that both complement each other in this hobby (but you always be my fav /smg/)

>>6316607
Hey I had that Mustang. First time I ever masked a cockpit. Completely botched it.

>>6319933
Kek

Is it ok to use an airbrush in a room now-a-days? I remember back a couple of years ago people said it was too dangerous, have practices switched enough to use airbrushes indoors? I live in an apartment and I want to paint some tanks

>>6320242

Buy/make a spraybooth and use a respirator.

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>>6320242
Been poisoning myself for 6 years and I'm still alive.

>>6319202
>zero personality

there is a reason we all enjoy this hobby...

>>6320349
speak for yourself

>>6319202
>>balding middle aged man with zero personality other than knowing lots of military history
Welcome to the scale model demographic.
>I'm 26, full head of hair, depressed but sociable, with an interest in military history at a non-autistic level
...I hope to god I don't go bald.

>>6320364
If your father's got a full head of hair it might be time to take up long distance running, because the world's certainly ain't gonna let you be neither fat nor bald by 35 without a fight.

>>6320373
He does, as did both of my grandfathers. I'm already a bit podgy round the middle, working shifts and eating junk does that :(

>>6320364

>noone goes bald in my family
>instead we get gray hair at 40

I think I prefer this

>>6320242
No one uses airbrushes outdoors. If you're using acrylics, you should be fine, but lacquers and enamels you will want to have an airbrush booth with ventilation running to outside your house, as well as a high quality respirator.

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>>6320364
>all male relatives on father's side have a full head of hair
>all male relatives on mother's side are bald by 35
>21
>already have a receding hairline

>>6319933
Upboats produce more dopamine than (You)s

>>6320460

Even if you use acrylics I think you should use a respirator. No reason to paint the inside of your lungs even if it's acrylics.

>>6318777
https://m.youtube.com/user/mokanaman

This neckbearded Australian weeb is pretty cool.

>>6320610
Same but reversed for me, it was always gonna happen, everyone on my Dads side is bald as fuck except for one uncle & his son/my cousin.

My Dad went bald when he turned 21-22 but that coincidentally was when I was born so he always put it down to stress, I started thinning when I was 18 maybe 19 & bic'd my heads every 2-3 days since i first noticed it.

Strangely enough ever since my hair went my beard got thick as fuck.

>>6320861
I didn't even bother with a buzz cut just straight slap head all day, it's going anyway so might as well just get rid of it.

When ever anyone asks I just say shit happens.

Everyone post the model they're the most proud of

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>order dank ass disaster relief vehicle from Japan because it costs 36 bucks to import but 80 to buy domestic.
>Seller has 99.7 positive feedback with a total of 16000 feedback
>ETA May 1st - May 11th
>Hasn't arrived yet.
There's still hope?

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>>6321196
Also it's gotta be this.

>>6321228
Delays happen. But...

>>ETA May 1st - May 11th

...yours ain't even fucking delayed yet.

>>6321304
Guess I'm spoiled, this is my first time using eBay. I normally use hobbylinc or Amazon

>>6320861
Never trust a bald guy with a beard.

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Has anyone here tried the Mission Model primers yet?

>>6320191
>(but you always be my fav /smg/)
you're my favourite too anon

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1/72 mustang WIP. Sprayed with testors cans.

How do I clean up the canopy without screwing the paint up?

Hey all you brush painters who don't use an airbrush, I think you might like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BitmaECqO30

I mentioned it here before about how oil based paints blend really nicely (also water mixable oils.) I think this vid illustrates it well and is worth a look.

>>6321517
I should mention that odorless paint thinner fumes will still mess you up.

>>6321501
Toothpick or piece of sharpened sprue

>>6321517
first time ive heard of water mixable oils.

im watching withi volume off so cant tell what hes saying but last time I tried to paint plastic with oils.
it was either too thin to cover or too thick and thus streaky.

>>6321386
Ive heard really good things

>>6321517
>oil paints blend well

No fucking shit

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>>6321656
Of course you and I might know this but this thread has modelers of all skill levels in it. No shit you're going to find stuff you already know from time to time.

>>6321629
They (water mixable oils) wash up and can be thinned with water but act like oils until you thin them too much. They tend to lose opacity when thinned too much.

The guy in the vid talks about traditional oils and mentions that the stuff he uses are marked to tell you if it's opaque or semi-opaque. He also thins out his paint some and then goes over it with a soft brush.

>>6316365
just keep practicing

What's the minimum primer fineness for car models?

I currently have Tamiya Fine Primer white and an unused bottle of Mr Surfacer 1200 grey and Mr Base White. Is Base White a primer in itself, or just a super opaque white layer?

Do I need to go up all the way to Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 before I can start using gloss black/metallics/pearls on my model?

>>6322213
If you want a smooth finish you'll have to sand the primer anyways

>>6322234
I know, I just what to know what's the minimum primer grade I can get away with before wetsanding.

I wonder if Mission Models' white primer will be just as good for car models, it would be one more step to avoiding more Mr. Hobby stuff.

Anyone translate or give me more info on this kit? Found it at LHS and wanna try and find online. Not a single word in english on it

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>>6322617
Shit. Everytime.

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>>6321196
Revell 1/72 T-90.

I went through a lot of effort to fit a shitty LED setup in it.

>>6322617
Seems to be a kit from a movie called Atragon made by a company named Yamakawa

>>6322618
>>6322617
It's from a movie called Atragon, done in 1963. The kaiju is called Manda, and apparently the sub is called Atragon or Goten-Go/Gohten-Go. The kit is by Fujimi.

>>6322836
niiiiiiice.

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Still working on Nagato here, work is still slowing me down. Past a wedding and some other stuff, though, I moved my workstation to my unused dining room table (Since I live alone now), and I'm actually making consistent progress. I've got a brass mast coming in tomorrow, I'm gonna be in Japan next week so I may check on getting a PE catapult, and I may also check on getting some better AA guns, as well.

I want to test my hand at making water for it, so I can display it somewhat nicely, if anyone has that scan from a magazine about how to do it, I'd really appreciate it. I didn't save it because I'm a dumbo.

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>>6324106
Cute ship, hope you'll be able to continue your build (I've barley touched my Prinz Eugen I bought 5 months ago). Also hope you'll have a good time in Tokyo next week, the stores here have all kinds of fun stuff for ships.
I might have the scans saved on my other computer so I can try to post them later. Until then, here's a picture of one of Mutsu's main guns in Yokosuka.

>>6324145
I'm actually likely flying into Nagoya, and heading down to Osaka. I go where the open flights (And hope of business class) takes me, and it's looking like CRW-ATL, ATL-DTW, and then DTW-NGO, and a train ride the next day into Osaka. I just have to make sure I can get out of KIX, or I'll have to cut my trip short a bit to get home, since I'll have to spend a day on a train up to Tokyo to come home, and that's 150 bucks I don't want to spend. Nearly 4x the cost of my flights, ugh.

>>6324145
Unrelated, is Tokyo (or Japan in general) really as heavenly for model makers as it's made out to be online?

For any modellers here that used Future Floor Finish: Have your coats yellowed out over time?

I have a half finished bottle of Future lying around and the contents have a yellow tint to it. A trip to a hardware store reveals how very few bottles haven't yellowed out.

Should I be scared at my efforts going to waste over yellowing?

>>6324178
I don't know about heavenly, but there's plenty of hobby stores in Tokyo at least, and some of the large apartment stores (like many a Bic Camera) will have a surprisingly decent model kits section too, although one generally dominated by Gunpla. Probably unsurprisingly, ground zero here is Akihabara.

I also found a pretty nice shop in central Kyoto just by walking past.

Whether this is simply because Tokyo is so unimaginably immense that there's a large market there for the slimmest of niches or because the Japanese are fond of model kit making is probably not a question for an internet armchair anthropologist. Japanese companies do have quite the presence internationally in the market though, especially if we include the Gunpla&friends side.

>>6324411
future, like most petroleum based products, gradually decay to yellow over time. Future was never meant to be used as a permanent sealing varnish for plastic models which is why it yellows fast and why I avoid it.

>>6324155
I just assumed most people would come here via Narita or Haned. Nagoya and Osaka should definitely have some decent shops as well which you can probably find through some googling. Otherwise the big electronics shops like Yodobashi usually have a decent amount of scale models and optional parts.
>>6324178
I moved here from a country where the shops were pretty shitty so for me it's heavenly.

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so I just started doing gunpla (only bandai HG) for the aesthetics, and I found Maschinen Krieger to fill all my expectations. are they hard for a rookie? if so what are other similar similar but easier models?

>>6324702
you want the other thread >>6324189

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>>6324106
Are these the scans you're looking for?

>>6324568
So my non-yellowing options are...?

Vallejo Varnish
Krylon UV clear
Mr Super Clear (if using lacquer paints)
Tamiya TS-80 (does it eat Vallejo paints?)
the upcoming Mission Models gloss/matte varnish

...am I correct with this list?

>>6324875
That's no enough...?

You also have AK/MIG range of varnishes.

>>6324875
Alclad Aqua Gloss

>>6324928
Seconding this
Stuff is nearly bulletproof once dry

>>6324928
>>6324952
can anyone even go wrong with that stuff?

>>6324963
Well, not really. I use it for all my models. Though I have yet to find out how to do a really high gloss coat with it.

>>6324875
>Vallejo Varnish
didn't we have someone a few threads back have that fuck their paint job up?
was it b-17 guy

>>6324977
Vallejo varnish is, based on my experiences with the Sturmtiger, not Mineral Spirit proof. I use it for the finishing coat only.

>>6324702
Can you fill seam lines and paint? If so, get the kits.

>>6324702
Dont be a pussy. Theyre expensive though

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what next?

>>6324853
I believe so, posted two or three threads ago, and the dude with the Naiad used them. My Nagato model is waterline, and I hate that part, but I figured putting it in some water would make a great display.

Long shot: I'm looking for a interior resin upgrade for a ma.k gustav. Anyone have one or a link?

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>>6325287

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>>6325504

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>>6325505

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>>6325508

>>6325241
Do the Salamander

>>6324999
>Vallejo varnish is, based on my experiences with the Sturmtiger, not Mineral Spirit proof. I use it for the finishing coat only.

>Mineral Spirit

It's a solvent for enamels.

>>6324928
>Alclad Aqua Gloss

It won't eat underlying (Vallejo) acrylic layers?

>>6324968
>. Though I have yet to find out how to do a really high gloss coat with it.

You tried the whole wetsanding up to 12000 grit and then polishing compounds?

>>6325672
>It's a solvent for enamels
Of course it is, yet that didn't stop it from fucking up the vallejo varnish while weathering with oils/enamels.

Aqua Gloss is, as the name suggests, water-based, so no, it won't eat vallejo.

>Wet sanding and polishing
Haven't had the need to do that yet (no car model as of now) but I kinda figured my sanding equipment is lacking.

>>6325407
>>6324790

>>6325783
You can get some CD scratch remover for really fine polishing. It might be cheaper than, say, car stuff. 3M's plastic polish is pretty nice though. The grains are pretty consistent.
I had an old bottle of Meguire's (Sp?) Plast-X, I think it was called, the compound separated from the medium. It worked pretty nicely when it was newish though. I picked up a tube when I was working at an auto parts store.

>>6325873
>>6324790
Ma. K is not gunpla you goof

only things you want for car paint are

in liquid form novus 123 system.
you can get mini bottles

and a full set of micro mesh polishing cloths.
theyre a much higher grit than any wet sanding paper.

with this you can actually remove scratches from clear parts its that good.

anything else is kinda pointless as this system covers all the grades.

>>6325241
Do the Pucara

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>ebay auction for 1/35 Meng Leopard 1A5
>bid 20 pounds
>ended up paying 28 and 8 shipping (44€+)
>now feel buyers remorse
At most I've saved like 10€. There's a modelling show happening on the 20th this months and probably could have gotten something better

>>6326297
>and probably could have gotten something better

Hunting bargains instead of buying kits you really want to build will lead to a full stash, empty wallet, and nothign getting built.

>>6326308
>full stash
Oh boy, it's getting there. The problem is I don't want to build anything out of the box anymore. I have kits but I lack the aftermarket. Just recently bought a 1/72 Revell PzH 2000 and a decal set for my country's military but I want an Extratech PE set and tow cables but this Leopard 1A5 came up and I kinda want a leopard 1.

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>>6326297
This hits close home. First related to ebay auctions and second more related to stash and loosing impromptu in builds/themes.
Posted in meme format for your pleasure.

>Browse teegee while bored
>Find "kingdom death" game thread
>pure bait but I love it
>find its a quickscammer game and releases are are and random
>check out of stock minis just to wail in rage
>find one I really like
>scourge ebay
>find some and promise myself to don't overpay
>Win one unopened for 110€ with customs and shipping
>can't find the original price but I imagine its less than 30$, so 25€
>remorse hits intermediately after paying the fucker
>I'm still waiting for her to arrive
>the moment I unbox her will be the turning point to love or hate
>I don't know if I have the skill to paint a 110€ fig
>feels bad

>Get slightly bored of WWII
>move to modern and cold war subjects
>Get slightly bored of modern and cold war stuff
>move to "what if" stuff
>move to warhammer for fresh stuff (to me) too just in case
>Despite blowing money at an alarming rate and buying too much shit I will never use feels good for now

Having nice variety and projects is whats keeps me going forward

Anyone got advice for how to use the vallejo gloss varnish?

Spraying it at ~15 psi fairly close to the model and trying not to use too much each coat either gives me a surface that isn't glossy at all or a kind of glossy orange peel.

Just started airbrushing a few days ago, this step is the only real problem at the moment.

I'm just trying to get a gloss coat for washes so I guess it doesn't need to be perfect, but I'm pretty sure it still needs to be gloss...

>>6326381
Yeah, be wary of Kingdom Death "boutique" figures. Some people buy out those figures just to resell them. Still these days, Poots seems to commit a number of them to plastic injection molded pieces. They're not bad compared to the resin figs. I'd modify them if they were resin anyway.

I'd post a pic but the one I took in a hurry is a little blurry. Also my windows disk is suddenly bloated due to a recent security update and I can't use photoshop anymore until I clear it out..

>>6326484
Try more presure (20psi) as varnish is thicker than paint and clogs and sputters at low pressure giving uneven coats. I shoot usually at 25psi mig/vallejo varnishes but this really depends where do you live.
Try on a paper first rather than giving several thick coats to your model tho
>>6326486
I suspected something like that when I saw the irregular supply in the official store but I hope it's worth it. Post yours when you can I wanna see it pls

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New poster in this general, and I kinda wanted to vent a little here...
>Be me, have a little over 200 dollars to spend on making a T-72AV in 1:35 scale.
>Go on Amazon, purchase the Tamiya T-72, and on Ebay purchase the Voyager T-80BV PE (Mainly for the ERA attachments on the turret and bricks), Miniarm Kontakt-3 bricks (For this kit and for future projects), the SBS Model T-72A turret, and the RB Models T-72 125mm L/48 gun, and order the SP Designs T-72A front hull.
>Spend a little over 175 dollars.
>It ends up being a complete failure, mainly stemming from my inexperience as a modeller. Paint (Mainly Tamiya acrylics) looks nice, and the turret looks good, but the PE mainly got destroyed making it, and I feel as if this thing's a money-sink.
>Go on google images because I remembered the T-72M4CZ is basically just a modded T-72M, and see that it essentially uses the same turret shape as the T-72M1s with TURMS-T, and I could have gotten the T-80BV for the bricks and for making another T-80 at another time, and it would have all probably come out to around ~120 USD.
>That 50 dollars could have gone to getting another kit or a PE set for the T-80.
It feels really bad man.

>>6326484
use a retarder or find something else.

>>6326529

I know it's pretty thick out of the bottle, but do you not thin it at all? It feels way too thick to just put in your airbrush without thinning.

>>6326564
The ammo mig one straight from the bottle, vallejo usually with some drops of distilled water (or just tap water) or vallejo airbrush thinner (not sure what it is but smells bad so it's filled with additives of some kind that helps with flow).
Shooting it high and working quick is how I do it so it being thick doesn't bother me (not everyone works the same way so what works for might not be the best for others). Others put more thinner, or glaze medium (for some reason but I wouldn't do it) but I don't like it too runny as I want to protect the big flat surfaces too you know.
What needle do you have? I use a badger patriot 105 with a 0.5

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Anyone know of a Kamaz Typhoon kit?

>>6326595
check scalemates.com but I don't think so

>>6321230
Nice

What's the scale on those Star Trek ships?

>>6326613
For once, I did. That's a shame, it's a nice looking vehicle.

>>6326637
Maybe modelcollect will make one in 1/72. Or zvezda in 1/35 if they get off they drunken asses and start doing what they should do that is ruskie afv gallore

>>6326639
I've been meaning to get a Modelcollect kit for a while, thanks for the reminder. Zvezda... ehh, as long as it's not in their green dyed plastic; I've found kits in that to be ripe with issues. I'd prefer to see a Meng one; their Tigr is decent.

>>6326545
Welcome.

Don't buy expensive kits until you know what you're doing.

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>>6324853
>>6325504
>>6325508
>>6325510

My zebra bed cover shall be legendary among the 4chan modeling community.

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>>6326529
Here's the plastic Beyond the Wall fig. I bought it during a sale for something like 20 bucks. Notes on mods and other stuff:
I drilled out the eyes so I could insert beads. The original idea was to just sculpt in new eyelids and get an expression closer to that of the painting the figure was based off of. I even took a hobby knife and opened the mouth up a tiny bit.
I added texture to the base with a motor tool, skipping a bit over it.
Also added a magnet to the base and one in her butt so I could remove the fig from the base for no particular reason.
I shortened the neck, which was a bad idea, since the pauldrons are a bit high. I need to pin and fill the gap in the neck now even if it would be slightly unnaturally long. You won't really notice this anyway once the gorget is in..

I bought some glow in the dark yellow paint from ebay. Going to test it before applying.

>>6326574

I'm asking about the vallejo one at the moment since it's the one I have.

I have a 0.4 H&S. How far do you pull back on the paint lever and how many coats do you usually do? Do you use enough paint each coat so that the piece actually looks wet or just do several thin coats?

Another issue I had was that if I pulled back too far I would kind of get big droplets, but that might be psi/thinning related.

>>6327049
Nice, I liked that one too. Well more the illustration as I'm not sure how people do their eyes, and as you said that's a key point in that one. How big are them? I bought without looking their scale as I assumed they were 28mm but I'm not sure (mine says 30mm base but she's pretty tall on that base).
Nice job on the eyes and modifications, will the beads give the eyes more life?
This is the one I bought:
https://shop.kingdomdeath.com/products/pinup-easter-twilight-knight
Can't resist bunnies...
>>6327113
In both I tend to go heavy on the varnish coat as I'm really wild on weathering and do a ton of stuff and can't afford a weak protection.
I do two coats at least always, pulling mid to almost back the lever. The surface looks pretty wet but NOT dampened (as in dripping down). If I had to describe it it would be two mid coats? But it also depends on what I'm working and what I plan for it latter, if it has big flat surfaces (a king tiger or a Ferdinand for example) I go more heavy on the layer, if it has more details (a modern Russian tank or something like that) I do them thinner so I don't clog the details.
The big droplets are when a very thinned paint/whatever gets pushed at low pressure, some gets atomized but some just drops from the nozzle and creates that sputters and drops.

>>6327201

All right, I'll give it a go. Thanks for the advice, hopefully it will be good enough for wash.

I think I might be able to pull it off better now than before simply because I have primed and basecoated an entire kit, lever/paint control feels a lot better now than before.

>>6327049
>Beyond the Wall
Might buy it, could you show me a size comparison?

wow this guy has some pretty obscure kits.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?item=262879018798&_ssn=recoverychannel&rt=nc

shame I don't have any money

>>6327343
really awesome kits among there. but most of them only have nostalgia value i'm afraid.

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>>6327343
>those prices

>>6327343
That nemo car is one of my grails

>>6327610
that's insane for a 1/24 car. surprised no ones made a 1/18 diecast

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a big thanks to all the guys who posted the masking tips on the previous thread

Where can I get springs like this in the states? Is there a name for this type of spring?

https://hlj.com/product/KBYMS04R/Sup

>>6327660
>Tfw the BF-110 is my favorite plane and I tried to build a kit of it last summer but ruined it with overly colorful, glossy dark green paint and accidentally broke shit in the cockpit with masking putty

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>>6327201
>>6327238
Coins, L to R:
10centEuro, 25centUSD, 5centEuro

It's about 30mm. Kindom Death figs are just a little taller than 28mm. I'll get a pic of it next to a 28mm up shortly.

At the end of the day, how you paint it will impact a fair deal on the final look of the model even if you do all these mods. In a distant past, I've sculpted fine/subtle details by layering thick paint before even.
I might just be a little OCD about the subtleties but if there are enough of those, the look of it all could also change greatly.

>>6327660
we love you too

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>>6328216
>>6327238
>>6327201

Okay, so it's bigger than 28mm

Figs from L to R:
Privateer Press' War Machine
Rachham's Confrontation/Cadwallon
Games Workshop's Warhammer 40k
..and I forget this one. I would almost say RedBox Minis but the base is wrong.

I checked the Warmachine figure's height since it was easiest to measure. That one is 28mm to the eyes, which is how they tend to measure scale. I don't know why they chose "to the eyes" as a standard, much less "average height of a male."

Thinking about it, Beyond the Wall is probably with their larger scale display stuff instead of their game. Let me go dig up some of the game pieces. I never got around to building those really..

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>>6328255
Nope. She's just out of scale, I guess.
I remembered I had a few things from an old Halloween grab bag filled with prototypes.
Anyway, google says they're supposed to be 35mm but I think she's just a tiny bit taller than 35mm. The figures in the background, the tall, headless one should be 57mm, the male is about 33mm and the female is about 35mm -measuring to the eyes on both of them. Aya(?) the fig from Beyond the Wall is a little bit taller, just eyeballing it.

>>6328280
I kind of want that figure because you get a print of the art, and the girl is cute. I can't paint figures for my life.

>>6328647
>I can't paint figures for my life.

practice is everything.

>>6328280
>>6328216
>>6328255
Uh she's pretty big for what I expected, and the bunny looks like it will be quite "big" too. But at the same time after paying that much dosh I feel like I deserve a 1/12 scale one at least, oh well.
I've never seen any of death kingdom stuff posted here or in the tg wip, so I welcome your build here if you feel like posting it as it will be interesting.

On an unrelated note the vignette I'm doing with the aos minis is almost finished but the water fucked me up good.
It's all my fault for being impatient as I poured too much and didn't check how other materials interacted with it, and ended with huge ass cracks near the stone steps. If I wanted to do ice it would look perfect but now I have to chisel and pour new layers to get the new surface, this time in small amounts and leaving it to dry completely before doing a new layer.
I would say "the more you know" but I already knew this could happen and rushing it got the best of me.

How UV resistant is Alclad Aqua Gloss?

>>6327996
bumping for this

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>>6328910
No idea t b h but probably a quick google search in some to some place like armorama maybe have something. If it helps Vallejo has resisted like a champ in my living room without yellowing in the sunny coast of Spain so I'm quite happy with it, ammo mig I can't say as it's been there only 3 months.

>>6329189
I'm not sure they have a name, in the lab a lot of measurement equipment has them so it's not a rare item. I found it searching "extension spring" in pic related (traction spring would be more technical and a direct translation but I'm not sure). Also they have it back in stock fyi.

thinking of buying Badger 105XTR. tell me why i shouldn't.

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Would anyone know of the exact paint colors needed for this pattern?

>>6329315
Dunkelgelb and red primer oxide or rotbraun, not sure from the pic. Rotbraun would be a camouflage color and something more standard but red primer oxide seems more fitting for your pic

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Some of my recent stuff

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Fibre optic time for the Zvezda Imperial Star Destroyer

>>6329324
>red primer oxide seems more fitting for your pic

But that would be unhistorical.

>>6329315

The base color of that tank is dunkelgelb, you can tell that by the roadwheels in that color.
It would be strange to have a red primed vehicle and overpaint the wheels.

Besides that, Tiger 1 production stopped in 1944, the paint shortages came only later, so it would be really strange to have one with only primer as base color.

>>6330159
hold on, not him but....

in the last days of the war, they have a tank in primer. only paint they've got is dunkelgelb because that's what they were using for everything.

so they just stick some dunkelgeb striped over red primer to quickly camo it.

does that situation not work?

>>6330163
It works.. but as i said, they stopped making Tiger 1s in 1944.

What you describe is more suited for last production batches of Panthers, Tiger 2s and maybe Panzer 4s, Hetzers or other late war tank destroyers.

>>6330168
fair enough... wonder where the image comes from then.

>>6330171
http://www.panzercamouflage.estranky.cz/fotoalbum/nemecko-1939-45/tiger-i/1944/schwere-ss-panzer-abteilung-102-----normandy--june-1944--3-.html

according to this page its from Großdeutschland Lithuania, June 1944 but who knows if that is actually researched or just some cool looking camo someone made up.

All that being said, Rotbraun came in various shades too, so maybe they got a few cans with a bit more red-ish pigmented paint.
It looks not that far off for my sense of accuracy but thats just me.

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>>6330174
nother one from the same page.

what brown colour is that then?

>>6329315
>>6330159
>>6330163
>>6330168
>>6330171

That's a scan, it looks like there is not artistic liberty and the tones are off anyway. It seems to be based on tiger from Schwere Pz. Abt. 505.

Tones are yellow and brown, but I don't know the exact names.

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>>6330177
and there's another completely different shade.

>>6330177
Schokoladenbraun RAL 8017 id say..

.. but since that page has camo patters for a maus in december 1945 i wouldn't say its 100% realistic what they show there.

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>>6330185
I didn't realize they used so many paints. this chart does seem to cover a few of em.

good job I don't build tanks yet

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>>6330174
MENTIONED

ok, i googled a little:

red primer as base camo color in combination with green and dunkelgelb as camo started on 31. october 1944.

The last 6 tiger 1s were made in August 1944.

But there is the possibility that a Tiger was sent back to a factory for an overhaul/maintenance later and then re-painted in red primer.
Or its just brown camo with a bit red tint to it.

>>6330190
And now you have to consider that they didn't got those paints ready-mixed to the frontlines/factories. They had to be mixed first. So some might have used Diesel for that, others used Gasoline other liquids.. each could result in a slightly different shade of the paint. And the longer the war progressed, the more creative the Germans became when it came to thin/mix their paint.

>>6330195
>red primer as base camo color

this link has a bit on it.
http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=45714

says that ral 8012 is red primer and ral 8017
is the camo colour

>>6330159
You made a solid point in the production year. But I was more focusing it as "what colors do I use to get pic related"
Also
>hard edge splinter type in a German afv
>in a tiger I of all
I think that the scheme is more what if than anything
>>6330180
>>6330195
If it's based on the 505 (they had tiger I in use as late as early 45) it's dubkelgelb, either dgI or dgIII depending on what shade you feel like using, and rotbraun.
As for the exact colors, tell us what brands do you use/have acces and I can give you some refs

>>6330325
>>6330159
Is initial production the only time a tank would ever be painted?

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Once again taking a detour for the Vasa, I'm starting on Tamiya's USS Cushing, though I'll build her as the Charette instead on account of having been aboard that one. Having heard that Tamiya's main gun turrts were rather undersized and that Skywave's weapon set fixed that I got it, and it seems I'll be using that for a few ore bits as well. Here are Tamiya's and Skywave's dual 40mm AA guns. But naturally the Skywave kit only had four, and the ship needs five, so in the middle is a quick Frankenjob using part of a quad 40mm.

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As for the 5" turrets, well, someone's out of scale at least.

>>6330401
No no no, every time a major work was done (replacing armor or whatever that needed to be sent to something like a big depot or a factory). As I wrote in the previous thread >>6315094 post, there are notable (and discussed quite a bit in the one I mentioned) of mixing components and factory reworks.
Usually a full coat of dunkelgelb, and "officially" post winter 44 in Olivgrün (RAL 6003) or Resedagrün (RAL 6011), was applied in the factory right after the red oxide primer before being send to the depot. So red primer wouldn't be strange in late war but probably it would be all dunkelgelb/whatevergreen and then rotbraun

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I made this recently. AMT/ERTL 1969 Chevelle SS 396. Weathered southern car.

>>6330454
Nice I like the sign, it's a nice touch. As critique if you wanted any, if you weather the painjtob, why not the rest of the car? It's squeaky clean of dust and mud (without going like a rally car but you know what I mean, daily use tier dirt), also the muffler looks odd all silver without rusting or "sooth"

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>>6330460
I hear you, several others I have done are weathered more, but I did this one as more of a daily driver. So new exhaust at least. Usually they rot off.

The truck is one that I did very weathered and abused, see above.

I do appreciate your advice, that is something I will add in future builds!

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>>6330476
I think pigments would be the best course of action as they can be light applied or make mud and the in between rather easily, pic related is a really nice view of of what you can get basically playing with the fixing medium, taken from the weathering magazine "pigments" issue, haven't read it all yet but the models are really well explained. Also I hope the fags that whined about having grills on the mag are happy because she's not in this issue.

From top-down, right-left translation:
>dry applied pigments
>water fixed pigments
>pigment with pigment fixer (the specialized liquids)
>pigments fixed pigment fixer mixed 50% with thinner

I think the dry (if you wont touch it a lot) or with the thinned down pigment fixer are really nice and easy ways to give a subtle dusting to the lower part of the body and wheels

>>6330460
>>6330454
Agreed sign is awesome

>>6330476
So awesome

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Newest project. Not sure if I'll keep the guitar string or try and find a spring

>>6330994
Reminds me of the bikes from 'Venus Wars'.

>>6330994
looks like the string could use some help on the right

>1/24 kit
>fully detailed interior
>opening doors
>opening hood and trunk

>1/12 kit
>detailed interior
>opening hood
>sealed solid doors
>absolutely no way to open it up without making your own doors from scratch

Being a 1/12 scale fan is suffering.

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Still not done but this is an AMT/ERTL Porsche 935. Its super basic, but beautiful still.

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Ended up making my own spring. Pretty easy. I wonder if people would pay for this shit?

>>6331737
Holy shit that better not be close to being done

>>6331751
Well, if you can do them under 0.20$ shipping included why not?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Box-of-200pcs-Small-Metal-Loose-Steel-Coil-Springs-Assortment-Kit-Assorted/32693926639.html
First thing I found using what >>6329213 anon said, hell, even in a big hardware store or amazon they have a fuckton of springs like that. Also, >>6327996 ones are 2$ if they sell them in your lhs or add them to a bigger order they are pretty inexpensive for a one off purchase.
And if you were to say "I need a fuck ton of em bill" you could go for something like this: http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/roll-maker/69-roll-maker-tube-wire-machine.html and get some nice variety and control over them.
(I was looking how to make tentacles and deformed springs with some putty was he first thing that came to my mind until I found the roll maker)

>>6331786
The only problem with aliexpress, amazon and kotobukiya is that they take roughly a month to ship. I was unable to find a single seller in the US, except one that required a minimum order of 70 dollars.

>>6331806
Did you check Ebay? Sometimes the shipping is retardedly quick for coming out of China. Like one or two weeks fast. Other times, it takes forever. I don't know what the deal is with the variance.

>>6331806
Yeah, minimum order and timing in stuff like that is a bitch when you find something at a good price. I found some in a discount store in old lamps for 5 bucks, but my idea was shitty (or I couldn't do it probably for lack of skill) so I just ordered that roll maker and see how it goes for some tentacles.

>>6331827
>>6331825
Shipping overseas is too fucking volatile. Sometimes months sometimes weeks.

Even so getting them from a model company costs about 8 bucks. Been thinking about starting an etsy store for modeling needs that are easier to buy than make. Stands, mounts, maybe some 3d printed accessories and such, homemade weathering pigments, etc.

Pigments are such a bitch to get in the states

>>6322836
That looks great.
Do you have a building log I can take a look at? Love the overall finish of the weathering.

Is Mr Surfacer 1200 fine grained enough to be wetsanded for gloss coats?


>>6331873
Too bad that etsy store doesn't cover Canada...?

>>6331754
It's not. It's been in the box for a while. I still need to do chassis, engine, and interior detail. And the decals of course.

has anyone ever been to an IPMS meeting? not a show, but a monthly meeting. Not sure what to expect. Do people just hang out and talk about models? bring shit in?

Obviously it varies by location. This one is in NJ

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>>6331786
>Tentacles

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Not mine, but posted on reddit. Super cool

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it seems no matter how I thin my airbrush paint it always comes out grainy. Any tips?

This was tamiya paints mixed with isopropyl and a flow enhancer

Higher psi or lower?

>>6334247
maybe you are brushing from too far away and the paint particles are drying in the air.

glossy paint does require closer airbrushing.

>>6334247
you want to practice on plastic spoons first.

>>6334252
I thought that, so I made sure to paint very close.

By the times I get through with weathering it'll be fine but its frustrating

>>6334247
>wut psi did you use
>wut climate you have (dry, humid, hot, cold)
>is the tip and nozzle clean without paint accumulations
>how far or close did you do it
I need more info my dear kohai

Going to preshade for the first time, any tips? And out of vallejo black model color and vallejo panzer grey primer, which one should I use?

>>6334304
About 12-15 psi. Hot day, but about 75 degs inside. Tip clean, used flow enhancer. About 1.5-2 inches away

>>6334266
well theres no reason you cant wet sand it. at least the major panels

>>6334328
Crank up the pressure towards 20 and hit a test piece. Might help, might not.

>>6334247
>tamiya paints mixed with isopropyl
why not just use Tamiya thinners mate.
the ipa may be evaporating too fast.
you can sometimes get rough surfaces from the paint flow being bounced from one surface onto a nearby one, but that mainly happens in concave surfaces.

>>6334337
what's the best grit for this?
I was unable to find anything finer than 600 and it was awful, but recently I found a hardware store that has them all the way down to 2500
should I go for it or it's something on the 1000-1500 range better?

>>6334443
id just pick up 1 - 2k. car painters usually start at 1k to tidy up their paint job. 2k is more for clear coat I think.

>>6334443
actually tooth paste on a cotton bud may work in this instance...

>>6334436
That actually might be the issue.

>>6334450
Is that true? Never heard of this

>>6334552
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=toothpaste+polishing+compound

>>6334247
What airbrush do you have?

>>6334607
Badger patriot

>>6334614
I've never had a problem with Tamiya acrylics, but then I've used their proprietary thinner (lacquer and X-20A) and I shoot through a HP-CP so I'm not sure where your problem lies.

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Balancing as much stuff as I can on it. I guess the PE railing is best attached after painting, seems rather fragile to have around during masking.

>>6334656
what scale is this? 1/700?

>>6334656
I usually prefer to attach it before painting, but it's up to you. The reason is that CA gel will bond stronger to the plastic than to a layer of paint.

>>6334687
Yep, Tamiya's Cushing.

>vallejo primer isn't sandable

Well shit.

What airbrushable primer should I use instead?

>>6334871
Mr. Surfacer is my favorite primer, check out their 1500 black, or 1500 gray. Sands down really nicely.

>>6334889

Should I be using the mr color thinner or mr color leveling thinner with that?

>>6334889
They're both ok to use with it, I prefer leveling thinner though. Usually I think it near a 1:1 ratio. It will be pretty damn thin with that, especially with 1500, but spraying it in light passes and building it up works fantastically.

>>6334908

I see.

I checked the place I usually buy from and they had 1200 gray and 1500 black. A bit odd that they don't have both up to 1500 but 1200 is probably fine. It's just a measure of grit, right?

>>6334911
Oh 1200 is fine, actually that's what I meant to say had a brain fart though.

I use both 1000 and 1200 gray mostly, 1500 black if I want to do a black base for shading.

>>6334913

Well, that explains it. Do you just use the thinner to clean up? I haven't put any lacquers in my airbrush yet so I'm a bit afraid of the cleanup being a bitch.

Also, the primer seems to be fairly expensive where I live, at least compared to the vallejo one I have been using, which kind of sucks.

Being able to sand it is pretty much mandatory though, so my wallet will have to take the hit.

>>6334925
ultimate primer, which used to be stynylrez is sandable and water cleanup

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>>6334925
You can use the thinner to clean up, but that would be pretty expensive.

What I use instead is Klean strip green lacquer thinner. It's mostly acetone I believe, and smells strongly like acetone, so you might be able to just use that instead. They sell it at home depot.

I'm using a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CR+ which is resistant to corrosion from lacquers and whatnot, so you still might want to be careful with this depending on what airbrush you're using. My old Badger RK-1 Khrome airbrush started to wear down quite a lot in the inside, but still functioned perfectly fine, so it's probably not that large of a concern. I think it was ammonia (from windex, which I use to clean up Tamiya paints) eating away at it though, not the lacquer thinner.

Like I said earlier though, Mr. Surfacer sands down perfectly, I use 600 to 2000 grit sandpapers with to wet sand it for a very smooth surface.

>>6334942

I'm also using an H&S. I'm aware that ammonia reacts with chrome.

I will try finding a cheap alternative, but sadly googling "lacquer thinner" in my language only gives me alclad hits.

>>6334656
Seems to be lacking in detail especially compared to other builds youve done

>>6334925
>>6334937
Yea, use that thinner. Cleanup is indeed a bitch unless you have a washtub/industrial sink. I use the bathroom sink and gf get mad

>>6334960
I'm not 100% positive it will work, but pure acetone might be easy to use, it's cheap and readily available almost anywhere. I don't think it's very corrosive either.

>>6334913
> 1500 black if I want to do a black base for shading.

What if they don't sell 1500 black in your own area? Can you just wetsand 1200 and spray gloss black?

>No ammonia-free glass cleaner in my area

What do I use for an airbrush cleaner recipe now? I don't want ammonia in my Windex.

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This Sergio guy on Reddit is pretty good.

>>6335205
I've never had a problem using regular windex

>>6335233
>Report: No pure self-promotion

>>6335254
I'd rather not take my chances with ammonia over time, thank you.

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>>6335257
Ohohoh and that's where you're wrong. I'm actually upside down Anon, but I've been dormant because I'm waiting on a Hitachi kit to arrive, but it's been a damn month since anything.OC pic of my collection as proof

>>6335205
Why don't you use acetone m8?
>>6335233
>blahblah(1).jpg
>(1).jpg
>(1)
Jesus Christ anon, you sure love that excavator pic

>>6335233
The one thing I cannot stand about reddit is people like this guy, who post a new image link any time they do a minor amount of work. Seriously, this guy posts like 12 fucking links (i'm serious) of him working on the same model. Christ, just wait until your done with the thing and post a single link.

>>6335415
Well, that's not the worst:
>Blatant upbote bait for normies
>Shameless self-promotion of his shitty youtube
>0 community interaction outside his posts to promote his vids
>fucking emojis
This one has a good execution tho, nothing to write home about it and it's more the novelty of the subject rather than skill or new techniques (it's easier to walk and see one of these machines than a fucking tank for references) and eye catching base colors (there's a reason why people do primer red wwII afvs, and that's simply to be eye candy in the sea of dunkelgelb)

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>>6335428
It's also now the top voted post in the history of the subreddit, what the fuck... how?

>>6335434
Wew, that ain't normal maybe a link to it from somewhere else or maybe bots. Look at the others, they average at 350 and then this thing almost 900... for one pic of an excavator? That place is a shithole anyway dude

>>6335415
Agreed. I always post my wip in a single gallery with like 30 pics

>>6335434
What the fuck? Gotta be bots.

>>6335434
The weird thing is he's not even that good. Hes like top 20 percent of the subreddit but many better than him. I think he posted his whippet here

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what /smg/ thinks about this barbed wire i made for mark. 1 stand?
crappy painted old miniature for scale.

>>6335030
The base kit is very plain, I get a feeling Tamiya didn't give a terrible lot of fucks about this one overall. Quite the joint between the main hull part and the hull base plate as well. Still, not quire everything's in place here yet either, railing, life boats, 20mm guns and depth charge bits will hopefully liven it up a bit.

>>6335618
Looks okay. If you don't mind spending a little extra time, you can make it really convincing. I'll try to take a pic from an old modeling handbook I've had on my shelf the past few centuries..

>>6335645
Sorry, I meant I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow. I'm not at home at the moment..

>>6335635
Is it an old kit?

>>6335649
>Sorry, I meant I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow. I'm not at home at the moment..
i'm in no rush. i'll wait
just have a good time anon.

>>6335649
>Is it an old kit?

Middling, 1996 tooling with some new parts in 2003.

>>6325241
I'll be doing my Salamander kit soon, so I'd say [spoiler]do the Pucara[/spoiler]

I bought the Takom prototype Maus today. I built the Dragon Maus years ago. I wasn't going to go for this at first, but I thought it would look great with a team of mechanics all over and some observers - some senior looking officers and guys in suits with briefcases. Will probably ask my dad for those, he probably has some figures of civilians and officers standing around.

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>>6335724
have a bit of maus I saved

>>6335726
That's kinda awesome. What's the story behind the colours? Are you going for a 'Berlin 1945 cobbled-together-from-the-factory' look?

>>6335618
Good enough. What did you use for the post?

Anyone know how to make diorama wild grass at 1/32 scale without buying packages of it for $10.00? I know some people will chop up rope and use the fibers to make haybales, I'm wondering if there's anything similar. I'm going for a bit of a tundra look.

>>6335503
The Russian civil war one?

>>6335829
I saw a thing with shredded bundles of jute or twine. Looked good

>>6335618
where's the barb?

>>6335791
>What did you use for the post?
toothpick treated with 60 grit sandpaper
>>6335904
what size would it be in 1/76 scale? 0,01mm?

Time to pop the question:

For thick paints like primer, or spraying pearl, which would you people recommend for reliability/ease of cleanup: Paasche H, or Badger Patriot?

>>6336029
The Patriot. What kind of question is that? It's the perfect entry level airbrush

>>6336030
What's the problem with the Paasche H?

>>6336032
>single action
Enough said. You'll grow out of it and will want a double action. Patriot has a nozzle without threads and is super easy to take apart and clean

Why is Revell so shitty?
What makes Bandai god-tier?

>>6336082
Revell became big enough that they make products for the profit, e.g. they have name recognition from the normies who say "I need a model, ooooh im always seeing these here Revells around, they must be good." Whereas Bandai makes products in very niche categories such as Star Wars, which that group will do more research and be more involved than someone who picks up a 1/77 scale Ford tri motor made by revell in 1986

>>6336185
>"I need a model, ooooh im always seeing these here Revells around, they must be good."

Not really. Its more a case of Revell is the only brand you can easily buy in a regular store over here. Outside of specialized hobby stores (which are super rare) you can't find anything but Revell in Germany. They are stocked by Toy stores, supermarket chains and other general stores.

I often read from people how they dislike Revell kits, but they are to lazy to look for alternatives, so they keep buying them.

The fact that many Germans still find it somewhat "scary" to order stuff from other countries only adds to this.
I visited a scale kit convention a couple of weeks ago and talked with a few older guys. I mentioned that i order my stuff either in GB or directly in Asia and they gave me the weirdest looks.

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>>6336185
>Star Wars
>niche

>>6336192
You know what i mean, no need to be a smartass. But in case you don't... Its the difference between the faggots who only know two things related to star wars, which is Darth Vader and "a long time ago in a blah blah", and the others who will get into heated debates about who shot first.

>>6336340
not to mention that independently of the amount of star wars fans, the actual subgroup that would go and make a scale model of something from the movie is significantly smaller

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Alright, I'm done trying to polish this korean turd

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Ass shot because why not

>>6335829
I've seen coarse fur. Maybe "muppet" fur will work but maybe the fur route is a little too fine. You can shop around a little if there's a fabric store.

You can also use a cheap 1-3 dollar disposable paint brush. Those big flat ones used for things like house painting. You chop those up and insert them into the base. There are a few different ways to do that though.

>>6336633
Just wondering but are those sink marks on the wings?

>>6336781
Yes, but it's way, way worse than that. I filled a bunch of sink marks, but these were so deep that the putty I use actually shrunk after application, leaving the ugly marks. The molding on this one is absolute dogshit, too- I had to sand a new shape the nosecone because the interior and exterior halves are so misaligned.

It's also not really an F-16A, but a YF-16, which has different landing gear, a narrower (and slightly longer) nose, and a completely different paint scheme + decals. I don't know why Academy thinks >>6318420
is acceptable. If you've got a YF-16 mold (shit as it may be) and want to package it with YF-16 decals, why the fuck not just market it as a fucking YF-16?

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>>6335923
>what size would it be in 1/76 scale? 0,01mm?

As thick as the strands for the main wire.

>>6336082
>Why is Revell so shitty?

Meh, if it's a somewhat recent mould (their own or Hasegawa's) it should be ok. Not a favourite, but if that's what's available they get the job done.

>>6336187
>but they are to lazy to look for alternatives
That's assuming an alternative exists.

>>6336921
>That's assuming an alternative exists.

True, but for alot of things there is one.
Lets say i want to build a Star Wars fighter, then Bandai is clearly superior. You would have to order their kits from abroad though. So many people will rather pick up the Revell kit from their local toy shop instead of doing that.

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>>6336632
Here you go anon, I hope this helps!

If I want to do streaking by using enamels, do I want to do it on a flat or gloss coat?

>>6337267
Gloss, as always.

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Time to clutch and finish the Tiran-5, I'm not sure I'm gonna make it to the 1st of June deadline for a group build 100% done, but at least fully painted and some very basic stuff like a filter, oils and washes (I hope).
I'm going to try this burnishing fluid and see how they end.
>>6337267
>>6337280
I wouldn't say gloss always, never flat as the pigments will get caught and the smears will be ugly an noticeable.
Gloss has a disadvantage in control as the things can get smeared too much. Satin has the flow and resistance of a gloss coat and the pigment/paint control of a flat coat. Also has the most realistic finish of all, unless doing USA/NATO matte patterns.