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Customs General

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Thread replies: 310
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Post your custom projects here; mods, fixes, repaints, dios, effects parts, accessories, 3D printed stuff, or whatever else you're working on.

Offer tips and advice, ask for help, post tutorials/guides, and have fun!
>>
Here's some tips from the previous threads:

Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.

For sculpting on figures: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.

For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have, and calipers for symmetry.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.

For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.

Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.

A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a cut open soda bottle.
>>
Also, there is a guide in the works, by mellow

http://pastebin.com/yiZV3s0R

Give feedback/critiques to help improve it.
>>
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Was on 2chan yesterday and found this cool custom Greninja. They modified his wrists, hips and ankles. His tongue even has swivel joints
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>>6280886

I dig it.
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I just got this custom cape for Boba Fett from ebay.

It's pretty nice overall but I think it's far too clean looking. How can I dirty it up without staining my figure? I was thinking about soaking it in tea or coffee but I'm worried some of it will transfer.

I'll be using it on regular Boba, not the prototype so I want it to look worn/weathered, maybe a couple of holes, rips and tears.
>>
>>6282441
Unless the cape is polyester or some other artificial material, teastaining should be the best bet. Bleeding, when fabric colors transfer to other surfaces on contact, is usually 'like-to-like', natural-to-natural or artificial-to-artificial, because the types of dyes used vary based on the type of finer.

Tea is good for dying natural fibers but it doesn't transfer to most artificial materials so it should be fine. If the cape is an artificial fiber, though, it may get a little tricky.
>>
>>6282447
It's a weird kind of material, it doesn't feel like conventional fabric, it's like a loofah or something, kinda hard to explain. Not sure if it's natural or man made.
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>>6282455
There's ways to test what it's made out of, but all damage the fabric. If that's what you're going for, though, it should be fine. https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/02/burn-test-for-fiber-content/

I used to have a sheet on how to tell between different synthetics based on their oder when burned but I lost that years ago.
>>
>>6282495
After reading that I think it's more likely to be artificial, probably polyester. How would I go about weathering it? I want to make it look raggedy without having loads of stray threads and having it unravel over time.
>>
>>6282519
You can paint fabric to add staining, but I'd definitely practice on scraps. If it IS a synthetic it can be melted, so you can use a lighter to melt the edges or use a soldering iron to poke blaster bolt holes. Always practice with scrap polyester before attempting something, just to be sure you get the effect you want before destroying the cape.
>>
3D printing stuff. How... Do I model ball joints right? I'm having a hard time wrapping my mind on how the ball squeezes into the socket, do I need to turn either into a clip (i.e. a split)?
>>
Questions:

1. Any guides for sculpting custom hair? It requires wire armature inside the pieces?

2. Any other guides for 3d scanning? More like for making extra faces/hair pieces for swapability and kind of to be time efficient (mostly to get to the customizing part sooner?)
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Just finished this today. I like it.
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>>6282840
Only used Shapeways so far, but with WSF there's some things that must be done to get it right.

1) Make the walls of the socket no thicker than 2mm. If you have a socket inside of a larger part (torso, etc) then you need to make the socket comprised of 2mm wall sections rather than a whole wall.

2) For standard ball-sockets you need to make a cut separating the walls into either halves or quarter sections that stop just above the bottom of the socket. T-shaped cuts with the horizontal part being at the bottom of the cut will allow more flex for the walls.

3) Sockets' inner diameters should be about 0.15mm smaller in diameter than the male ball end that pops into it.

4) Use pegs 2mm or thicker (larger ball-ends will necessitate wider pegs) to prevent pegs snapping.

That's all I can think of at the moment. It's still a tricky process getting ball-sockets right. YMMV.
>>
>>6283060

Thanks!

For #3, wouldn't it be 0.15mm bigger? Or is it expected for the socket to flex + squeeze on the ball?
>>
>>6280212


Anyone know where or how I can't get/make a robe for play arts Kai 10 ten Darth maul
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>>6283187
No, 0.15mm SMALLER. The walls should flex around a ball that is a hair bigger than the inside of the socket.
>>
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Ready to start printing the shell. The blaster is huge so I modeled the handle and the body shells seperate.

Sized for Elite darts, 6 fit in the cylinder.
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Fairly new to customs, but looking to work toward a dark souls mimic. I saw Jin's which looks great, but the Prometheus deacon is stupid expensive now, so in trying to figure out what to use as a base. The nice thing about the deacon is that it scales well for the mimics being significantly taller than the player (scaling with Mythic Legions would be ideal) so Im at a loss for what to use as fodder.

I guess I could use a Xeno but their fingers are less human and they have the ribcage detailing that I'd have to smooth out.

Any suggestions?
>>
>>6284348
If you don't mind going smaller, you could use a funko white walker
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>>6284348
Some anon a while ago did a Mimic using a modified 13th Angel/Eva-03 (Revoltech, I think).
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>>6282976
looks cool. you did a good job.
>>
>>6284353
Interesting thought

>>6284491
I saw that too. Might look into that more.
>>
>>6280212
That splatoon girl is amazing.
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>>6285343
>>6280212
Holy shit I didn't even notice that before. That's the amiibo head with custom goggles right? Any story on this one? How they did it, etc?
>>
>>6285354
Git gud

>>6285343
>splatoon is good
>>
>>6282959
I hate to say it but current consumer-grade 3D scanning is awful. It's good as a reference to remodel a form, but the actual scans tend to be full of holes and covered in weird spikes.

I suggest learning a modeling software well enough that you can model a head on your own, then use scan data as a reference to rebuild.
>>
>>6285354
he answered that in the prev thread

>>6275402
>>
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My C-Model Lina finally arrived. I'm interested in turning it into a figure like the one posted in past threads.
>>6239224
If anyone could give me some pointers, I'd be very thankful.
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>>6280212
>That Jacket
Is the anon who made that still around to post pics? I'd love to see more of that chicken mask boy.
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>>6285519
Im jelly of your work and hope to surpass you some day
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>>6285551
Thanks! I didn't realize the previous thread was still up.

>>6285369
Splatoon is great you asshat
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Im about 90% done with this. Im going to add some chain link fence to the connecting alley way and weather the trash cans, but other than that, its done.
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>>6284543
Thanks. Here's an updated picture.
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Does anyone have a solution to stop paint transfer on cast off clothing? I thought I heard someone mention using a varnish to seal the accessory but if any one can lend credence to that let me know.
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A couple of questions.

I'm considering making a black jacket using protoputty. How can I compensate for the cornstarch making the color lighter?
Also, is anyone familiar with this pic related's engineering? I can get one for cheap where I live but the claw is busted and I have no idea how to make this mod since the guy says jackshit about the process in his site.
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his jaw in robot mode is static with a pressure fired missile and the beast head just looks painted... the claw is most likely the wing part he means and its pretty much just a spring loaded idea.
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>>6286912
Thanks.
As for the claw, do you have any idea of what's inside of its assembly?
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>>6286934
The claw, IIRC, is a simple set up, two overlapping holes from each wing and a rod lever in the center. No springs or anything
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>>6286939
Thanks, m8.
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>>6285729
It shouldn't be difficult lol. I've only been at 3D modeling for like 2 years.
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>>6284348
I made mine forever ago with a Robot Damashii Unit 02 The Beast as a base.
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>>6287670
its nice but that giant fingerprint on the thigh hurts my soul
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>>6287670
My mistake. I knew it was an Eva still.
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>>6287950
Yeah this was my first custom, and unfortunately didn't take my time with it, so theres a lot of imperfections.
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What tools can I use to achieve this type of hair sculpt? I want to make a Pulp Fiction custom from a Mace Windu.
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>>6289832
Get like a towel and press it to the sculpt.
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>>6289837
>>6289832
Use some steel wool, but crunch it up real nice before you do. It works great for afro hairstyles.
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>>6289832
Buy the Misty figure and heat/pop the hair piece off, then just dremel the fuck out of it to fit the Mace figure.
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So I just got a Faith figure from the Buffy line and as soon as I opened it the leg broke off. What glue should I use and what is the process like since I've never had a figure break like that?
>>
>>6290303
It looks like it's the joint disk itself that cracked. You can use a pin vise and a small metal rod (like a paper clip) to hold the two cracked sides together with glue, but that fucker is toast and will just keep breaking when you move it.
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>>6290225
I'll try that!

>>6290271
I thought about doing that, but It seems like it'd be too big.
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>>6285586
A headswap? Seems like an odd choice to make the body of a girlified zombie rocker.
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>>6285690
im here my dude
what do you wanna see?
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>>6290670
Just for you to show him off really, he looks really good.
>>
>>6287670
>>6287950
>>6288179

It should be easy enough to sand down if the fingerprint still bothers you.
>>
>>6290658
They're both the same type of figure that you can disassemble, but that's unrelated to my post.
>>
>>6285519
>>6290658


How do all you guys sculpt custom hair and make it somewhat resilient to handling? I heard hair tips crumble easily according to another thread here?

Do you guys insert wires into the epoxy clay before it cures, or do you build the clay on top of a vague hair shape made from styrene?
>>
>>6292774
I don't sculpt hair often and when I do it tends to be short, sorry

For ponytails and the like I prefer nendoroid-style ball joints.
>>
Started to kitbash some of my leftover 1/6 stuff to make a dark souls gwynevere for my smaller figures to gawk at. I'm using the x-men blink head and the playtoy xl body to start off.
>>
>>6292774
I start with plasticine.plastalina clay on the head and freeze it for a couple hours. Once stiff from the cold I carve out chunks to get the shape of the hair in basic form. I then freeze it again, mold it using silicone putty, inspect for air bubbles and stuff, then cast in plasticweld epoxy putty for minor details to be worked into it and finished. If I need to do finer details in the sculpt I cast it in kwikwood epoxy putty and let it cure for 36-48hr (it takes that long to be bone-dry so that its grain will be fine and it can retain super-fine details carved into it). Once fully cured I carve into it carefully until done, sand it, make a new mold, powder the inside of the mold lightly with talcum/baby powder, and cast in epoxy putty (this takes sometimes multiple casting attempts since fine details can get fucked up with the tiniest air bubbles). YMMV with liquid resins and silicone.

This process is good for any sculpting really if you need to do very fine details.
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I got this guy for a few bucks and now I want to give him more articulation. Any ideas?
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>>6293951
>playtoy xl body
You have my attention, got any wip pics?
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Cockatiel
I have other birds i made by hand, but this is the most recent one
>>
>>6295484

Replace the legs/arms with wires in the center and bendable tubing on the outside? Should give a similar look with way more articulation
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Was thinking of buying the imaginext Dragon zord and re-painting it to look cooler, could I even do that and what paint would I need?
>>
>>6295970
1. yes, definitely
2. depends on what type of paint finish you want
>>
I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but I've been thinking of commissioning a segmented 3d print of an original character I have, and then ordering like 10 copies on shapeways and having a friend paint them. Thing is I'm not sure if people on the internet would buy an action figure that isn't really based on any existing property in particular.
>>
>>6296419
They wouldn't, unless it fills a fetish niche.

And even then, a 6" hollowed Shapeways figure is $25+ shipped at minimum. When you add on costs for production, such as paint work and additional shipping to the recipient, it would put your low interest creation well out of the price range that people would accept.

Except if, as mentioned before, it resonated with a niche crowd that has a voracious appetite for content but little to no representation in figure form. Like making a thicc woman with a huge erect cock and I guess harpy or spider legs or something.
>>
>>6296437
would you say daibadi or whoever makes those polynian figures fills that sort of niche?
>>
>>6296450
Sort of? They're hitting a niche, but it's still in the safe zone of a mainstream thing like mecha and they more go for a subtle fulfillment of a fetish rather than an overt one. If you go whole-hog into dickgirl territory, you'd be far beyond them and would get at least a few weirdos interested in your stuff.
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>>6296458
what are some other non-fetish safe zones besides mecha?
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>>6296168
something to make the gray and light gold parts much shinier to make it look similar to the legacy figure
>>
>>6296474
You could try some alclad spray paints. They're automotive-grade and have nice metallic choices. Just clean the plastic to remove mold release residues and mask off the areas as you go. Also grab some plastic spoons and do test sprays on those first before fucking up your dragon go-bot.
>>
>>6296460
still wondering about this. Really I just want to make cool figures that people will feel comfortable buying.
>>
>>6296502
I think at that point it is more of a character+graphics designer job. There's this thread here >>6257609 about some robot dinosaur toys that people only like because they look cute, so you'd have to pull something like that. Very unlikely to get it right at the first attempt at the very least.

I don't know, you have a nice dream but it seems a bit farfetched since you aren't the one doing the 3d print nor the painting. If everything was your work I'd say you'd make way more people happy by doing customs of licensed characters from forgotten series and just selling them under the table.
>>
>>6295802
Come on dude, you can do better than that. Do you need some sewing tutorials or something?
>>
Ika Musume anon here. Does anyone know where to get some good bare feet for Ika? I know Papi-anon was working on some Shapeways feet.

In other news I finally got a spray booth so once I have somewhere to set it up I should be able to start painting her, or at least practicing so I don't screw up.
>>
>>6296460
>>6296502
Real world animals in a popular scale would be safe and in demand. If you made something like a 1:12 scale crocodile or kangaroo with even basic articulation, it would sell. People would only expect maybe 7 or 8 points of articulation for something like that and they'd be over the moon with joy.

For a humanoid OC though it would have to appeal to someone's jerkoff territory to sell. And thankfully basically every genre of interest has some sort of sexualizing twist to it.
>>
>>6291110
will do when im home :) will set up some cool scenes or something
>>
>>6291110
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQIpEBghO7F/
there you go my dude
>>
Can I get some help with determining size? I'm trying to make a 1/1 scale of the caterpillar/centipede/whatever girl from Horihone Saizou's hot house comic, but her size seems to vary.

Page 16, using exhentai's english one, seems to be the best size reference, and that makes her look about forearm sized, give or take a few inches. Page 14 has another good reference, and given the character's a shota, that one makes her look right around that same mark. But on the cover, and at the end on page 49, she seems very small on that leaf, more like the size of an actual caterpillar. Should I stick with the comparative size on page 16 and 14? Or is the issue that Japan just has some plants with huge leaves that I've never seen?

I'm trying to replicate the cover page, so I'm not sure if I should size her down, especially if I want to give her a leaf base. Right now I have the skeleton done and it's about 7 inches from tailtip to the top of her head, which feels and looks close to right although the leaf base would end up huge
>>
I'm making a 3.75 scale sentai team (power rangers) and I'm looking for weapons. It's really hard to find weapons at this size. Anyone mind helping me out? I have a sword and chained sickle so far.
>>
>>6296904
Look into bootleg Figma Sonico, Mimi Append and Archetype She Next. Both are cheap and come with bare feet, plus the archetype She Next is a decent fodder with joints that are not so bad compared to other bootlegs'.

Sadly the bare feet I designed didn't work out so great in WSF.

If you don't mind painting them, I might be able to cast some bare feet from my bootleg Sonico for $5usd a pair.
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>>6297537
*Miku, not Mimi.
>>
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>>6280212
Does the guy who made that Sunflowmon plushie still post here? I remember him from a Digimon General on /vg/. He was going to make a Numemon with fake eyeballs and false teeth and I need to see that in my life.

Also I think apparently he was going to take commissions or at the very least post patterns.
>>
QUESTION
What is the best/most ripped blank body? in the 5-6" range. I've been looking at the SHFs and Figmas.

And on top of that, the character I want to customize is all yellow.
Would it be smart to get pic related and just airbrush him yellow, leaving certain areas orange to make it look like shading?
I have access to an airbrush, but no experience so just curious as to what you guys think.
Or if there are much better buffer bods to use I'm all ears.
>>
>>6298077
Also would anyone happen to know if the difference in quality from the legit to the bootleg version is huge?
>>
>>6295779
Here's where i am with it at the moment, pardon the potato picture. I may end up getting a new head since this one is kind of bug-eyed.
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>>6297692
Reporting for duty. I'm working on Sunflowmon v3.0 tonight. Fixing the head, and making the new version 20% bigger.

Warumonzaemon is on hold until I find some kind of bracket to keep the claws properly aligned. I made one out of plastic, but it warped when I put it in, making the claws splay out.

I don't want to post patterns till I'm 100% satisfied with em. Monzaemon is the only one at that point, and I can dump the pattern in the thread if anybody wants it. I won't be available for commissions anytime in the near future, but maybe somewhere down the line.

>>6280212
What is the green thing in the middle of the top row?
>>
>>6298297
oh right, re: the numemon. That's definitely a long ways off, my current skill level is way too low to make those teeth.
>>
Got my first real garage kit today, unpainted resin and all that fun. I got some tamiya putty to go with it, but I've never used it before. I have plenty of apoxie and am very comfortable with that. Is the tamiya putty that much better suited to seam hiding that I should learn and try to use that, or would it be better to stick with apoxie?
>>
>>6297268
Nice!
That postal dude and Serious Sam in the back is great too.
>>
>>6299064
what kit did you get?
>>
>>6296419
>>6296502
>an original character I have
Probably not, unless it's super cool/badass.

But, I've heard the furries pay stupid amounts of money for shit, you could do a sfw wolf girl or guy and sell that.
>>
>>6297353
Don't forget, Asian people are also smaller than Europeans, so the sizing relative to the characters might not translate well, and manga characters also have deformed proportions. But id you specifically want to replicate the cove, then maybe size her down.

>>6297511
Bandai made some 4" figure a few years back, I forget what weapons they came with, at least a laser gun. GI Joe has ninjas that come with melee weapons.
>>
>>6298079
I only own two bootlegs of the She Next with a legit one. Quality difference for that model:

-Bootleg's soft-plastic parts are softer and a bit flimsier than the real one.
-Bootleg may have mold imperfections or flash here or there
-Joints can be tight or loose, and are obviously not the same quality as legit Figma joints. To be fair though, in my experience Archetype bootlegs new version and older version have had no breaking joints whereas bootlegs of other figures I've owned (Snake and Bride Saber) had joints break right out of the box.
-The first wave of bootleg Archetype She Next had articulated toes but the later bootlegs have quickly gotten rid of the articulation (it's flimsy as fuck).
-Diaphragm joint of the first Archetype She next was off-centered and caused there to be a wide gap in the diaphragm, but the orange one was fine and centered.

That's all I can say that you might have to deal with with the bootleg He Next. All in all the figures are decently sturdy for bootlegs.
>>
>>6299471
That cat girl Karin from build master works. Gonna hunt for the yellow Fox girl next if it turns out well.

There's only three or four seams to worry about, both upper arms, her left thigh, and where the front ans back of her head meet

>>6299493
>But, I've heard the furries pay stupid amounts of money for shit
Can confirm. Anthro Cat girl dolls are what made me get into bjd and they're like five hundred bucks a pop. Still plan to get some commissions done one day.
>>
>>6297537
Painting isn't an issue as I'm painting most of the figure, though JSYK I live in the UK. Thanks for the advice on feet though, I might have to get myself a bootleg Archetype or something. Bootleg Figma are super cheap on eBay and more fodder is always a good thing.
>>
>>6299509
Thanks, seeing those leaves are a bit help. I'll size her down a bit until she can fit about in my hand, and that shouldn't be too bad. I know I could technically just make her scale-less, but 1/1 scale has always been very appealing to me, so I'd like to put a bit of effort into making sure it's as close to right as possible.
>>
>>6299179
thanks :) i used to make customs all the time but then moved on from commissions and customs into cosplay and props
i still knock the occasional custom out
>>
>>6298300
Good luck man. Tri and Cyber Sleuth got me reobsessed with Digimon so I love seeing stuff like this.
>>
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Anyone have any idea on how I could kitbash or make this for a 1/6 scale figure?
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>>6298297
>What is the green thing in the middle of the top row?
Envy form Full Metal Alchemist. I colored it only to have a green theme.
http://blog.livedoor.jp/nucolina/
>>
>>6289832
>>6289837
>>6290225

One more question - What kind of material should I use to sculpt the hair piece?
>>
>>6282441

>mix acrylic paint into water until you get it to look like whatever shade of tea you would use
>apply it like you would the tea
>let it dry
>???
>profit
>>
>>6296460
easy blanket answers is

-dont do females
-dont do anime

stay out of those zones and you dodge pretty much all fetish risk
>>
>>6295802
are you a potato, or just 5 years old?
>>
>>6298077
>Would it be smart to get pic related and just airbrush him yellow, leaving certain areas orange to make it look like shading?

no, just no.

to accomplish sucha goal you would want to dry brush your primary color on him, so the various nooks and crannies of the sculpt retain the orange and thus look like shading.

airbrushing and trying to leave crevices the original color, especially if you have no experience, is going to backfire and you're going to ruin everything.

If you're new to painting/toy customizing, please watch youtube videos for a few days so you can understand basics before you dive in and wreck shit.
>>
>>6301451
>to accomplish sucha goal you would want to dry brush your primary color on him, so the various nooks and crannies of the sculpt retain the orange and thus look like shading.
I'm aware of dry brushing, but that doesn't leave a smooth gradient of shading, not that I'm aware of atleast.

But what you're saying is to get the whole figure painted yellow first, and then dry brush over that with orange?
>>
>>6302268
He has no idea what he is talking about. Drybrushing accents onto a naked form would look like ass. And with the transparent nature of most yellow paints, it'll be a fucking nightmare hand brushing over such a vibrant and darker color value without making it look inconsistent and rough.

If you're good with an airbrush, use that. If you're not good with an airbrush, grab a big chunk of cardboard and work on your line quality for a day or two. The principles behind what you are going for are simple enough in terms of accenting muscle groups and whatnot. You're not exactly going to be airbrushing a kitschy Venice Beach boardwalk t-shirt for tourists.
>>
>>6302307
>If you're good with an airbrush, use that. If you're not good with an airbrush, grab a big chunk of cardboard and work on your line quality for a day or two
Ahh okay thankyou, this was my original plan
>>
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The new head pattern is a huge improvement. I need to work out a more efficient method to attach the petals though. They need 3 layers of basting and it's really time-consuming and tedious.

>>6300852
Thanks bruh. I have quite a few other digimon I'd like to make somewhere down the road. Phascomon, ExTyranomon, Cherubimon if I decide I hate myself enough to try it
>>
>>6280212
That green thing at top center is fucking awesome.
>>
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The joints on Kagami's pigtails broke. I had to dig them out with a small screwdriver. What's the best way of putting them back on? I have super glue but I feel like there's a better way of doing it.

Pic related, I can actually fit Misao's head in one of the holes.
>>
>>6304336
If they completely snapped, either replace them or glue everything down solid. A joint with a flaw should not be repaired. Anybody that suggests pinning the joints back together should be ignored.
>>
Anyone here work with vinyl? I'm looking to make a vinyl copies of an object I 3D printed, how much detail does the vinyl capture? Will the small grooves be noticeable in the final product?
>>
>>6304336
Don't do anything. Attach a head on each side and make her an unholy hybrid of hell.
>>
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So a surprise for you guys. Shapeways order just came in and I just finished assembling it.

It's a 1:12 scale, non-feathered Velociraptor made from WSF and Elastiplastic. I have a feathered version in the works and will print that later once it's done. This is maybe the fourth thing I've ordered in EP and it has met my expectations splendidly. Only complaint about the material is that some layers in the stepping were loose at the bottom but all in all a success. The elasticity paired with the tiny rings I designed within the peg holes keep the pegs and ball ends in nice and snug. Too bad EP is a maker-material and can't be sold via one's shop.

On a related note, these damn 5mm joints are a bitch to assemble. Didn't help that this WSF print was a hair thicker than usual from tolerances being +/-.15 or so. Last time it made peg holes too loose being a hair wider.

If I sell anything using EP it'll have to be through EBay, BST, etc since the EP would have to come to me first.
>>
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And a size comparison with a ML Nuke.
>>
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>>6304367
They snapped. The left one has a bit of the joint remaining but the other one doesn't.

1/3
>>
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>>6304485
2/3
>>
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>>6304487
3/3
>>
>>6304485
>>6304487
>>6304491
Oh, I thought they were actual hinged joints that you were talking about. They look more like simple pegs, based on your picture. If that's the case, then I'll reverse course and say that pinning might be your best bet. But even still it will be weak as hell.
>>
>>6304509
How would I do that?
>>
>>6304526
Use a pin vise to drill a small hole into both ends of the break, slip a small pin (like a fragment of a paperclip, or the shaft of a thumbtack) into the holes to bridge it, slap in some glue, pinch it tight for a few minutes and let it cure for a day. The hardest part is matching the 2 holes so that the pin perfectly aligns when bringing the 2 ends together and the fractures in the break link up like puzzle pieces.

But again, it will still be weak as fuck, and probably not even worth doing.
>>
>>6304542
Sounds a bit tedious. I actually thought of cutting Q-tips into makeshift pegs to hold the hair in place. I'd super glue one end of the peg to the hair and put glue in the hole. I don't know how effective it'd be but that was my idea. Would it be worth a shot?
>>
>>6298174
Looks ok, you might want to go the extra mile and make the couch and some small throw pillows.
>>
>>6304466

Are you still working on that cool Harpy-girl? I'm just curious, since that was such a sweet and promising figure.
>>
>>6304608
Yeah, that's still a project I want to do. What I've learned with the recent raptor figure will make my namesake project easier now with getting parts to fit and function.
>>
>>6287670
And you're still a fucking faggot for doing so.
>>
Finals are officially here and that means I should have my toy design plush project ready for photos soon.

It's definitely gimicky and aimed at children, but it's been getting good reviews so hopefully I can do something with it when the class is over.
>>
>>6304462
>>6304466
That's really cool, man. Not being familiar with Elastiplastic, is it flexible? Like could you print the neck straight and run a wire through it?
>>
>>6304556
Well, look at it this way: You could replace your car's serpentine belt with a necktie and I can guarantee it'll work, so long as you never start your car and test it.
>>
>>6305110
It's not as durable as real rubbers can be, and I've heard some people have issues with layers not fully fused and thus tearing. I'll try making a bendy-wire neck or something next time using a thin brass rod.

It's a very soft material, a hobby knife cuts through it like silicone, but thicker walls afford more strength obviously. With the right dimensioning in CAD, it can do ball-sockets pretty nicely, so that means less relying on WSF ball joints or needing to replicate figma-styled ones.

With the raptor being a success in the combination of materials, similar-sized 1:12 animals should work too.
>>
>>6305149
Any chance you'd get into housepets, service animals, or game? Would be pretty fun to have articulated wolves and bears.
>>
>>6305155
They all seem plausible. I think I'll start with working-breed sized dogs and wolves when I can get to designing. Probably a lab, a German shepherd, and a grey wolf to start off. Blank human figures will have to wait, because 1:12 animals with articulation are deeply neglected as a product.
>>
>>6305189
You're a good man.
>>
>>6302720
Homie. I would love that monzaemon pattern. That would be amazing
>>
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>>6305297
Here ya go. Page 1 of 2
>>
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>>6305297
>>6305442
And Page 2.

I'm new to making patterns for other people to use, so I would love feedback on how I can improve the presentation. I think I might leave out the letters next time, I hope the patterns are self explanatory enough.
>>
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>>6305443
And the finished piece
>>
>>6305446

I really like this man, nice job.
>>
>>6305446
For a second i thought that was a syringe below the scissors
>>
>>6302720
>>6305446
are you sewing these by hand? are there tutorials? it looks so tidy and professional.
>>
>>6304871
Sorry I offended you dude, have a nice day.
>>
>>6306878
Don't mind him, he's still mad that someone told him not to say the n-word a few threads back
>>
Any advice for using the Tamiya Polyester Putty? I can't find any info on the ratio of hardener to putty to use. The instructions are in moon-runes.
>>
>>6280212

Thinking of making a 1/6 scale figure of COD MW2 Simon Ghost Riley any advise on body, clothing etc would appreciate the help.
>>
>>6305475
Thanks man

>>6306804
You've uncovered my secret, I'm just using these to hide my drugs

>>6306864
Thanks! I use a combination of hand sewing (for small, weirdly shaped, and external parts), machine sewing, and an embroidery machine (Monzaemon's eyes, the veins in Sunflowmon's wings, appliqué like Monzaemon's ears and pawpads).

I can't find ANY information on making your own embroidery files from scratch, so I've just been fumbling blindly in the dark to figure this out. I do however have an enormous quantity of regular sewing tutorials I can link. What kind of info are you looking for?
>>
Anyone have schematics for integrating LEDs/batteries/switches into sculpts?
>>
>>6295484
To piggyback what >>6295882 said, I've got that guy as well and was planning to the flexible metal piece from a dollar store booklight to replace his arms and legs.You could also try to find the extended arm sections from ML Machine Man. They should be cheap as hell anywhere.
>>
>>6307513
if it's like the polyester putty i've been using--and i bet it is--it's 2% by weight. i always end up using way more though, since i'm mixing up very small amounts and it would be hard to reliably blend a tiny drop without wasting all the putty on the sides of the mixing cup. works fine anyway

post a review of the tamiya once you've played with it a bit; i like this stuff a lot but it stinks something fierce
>>
>>6307696
>i like this stuff a lot but it stinks something fierce
Yea well toxic stuff usually does
>>
I'm looking to sculpt a dress on a figma scale figure. What would be the best material/technique to do this? I want the parts around the abdomen to retain some flexibility so that the figure can still bend at the waist. I have some milliput but that would probably cure without flexibility I think?
>>
>>6307928
greenstuff/kneadatite might work. it will be pretty stiff, though
>>
Does anyone know which of the Evangelion revoltechs, if any, are both relatively cheap and tough enough to have extra weight put on them across the entire body? Specifically, I'm going to be putting fibreglass and small things like capacitors on it. Accessories are not a concern. Thanks in advance.
>>
>>6307928
Latex
>>
I need some advice friends. I'm planning on making a custom Marvel Legends based figure.
1. Are they a good starting point for beginners? And do most of the body types match up? I know a Cap body wouldn't work too well with a Spider-Man body but the 3 I'm conglomeratating are Deadpool, Taskmaster and Ghost Rider. All of them are the new Hasbro ones.
2. The character also has shoulder pauldrons almost exactly like the ones from Dragon Ball Z. Are there any ML that have anything similar to those? I don't exactly want to buy a whole, expensive DBZ figure just for the shoulder pads but I also can't be sure if any of the cheap ones will fit a 6 inch figure.
Any advice would be helpful.
>>
>>6307555
>What kind of info are you looking for?
I was just curious about the general workflow. no need to spend time organizing links (unless someone else has the resources and equipment to make good use of your tutorials, myself having neither)
>>
>>6307382
That doesn't sound like me, I mostly lurk.
>>
>>6308384
talk shit post fit loser
>>
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I just finished something epic commission.
My friend always wanted a all helicopter combiner in Transformers Combiner Wars. But a big helicopter torso never came to be. So I built it.
>>
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>>6309036

Here's the individual robot mode. Complete with robo-tits. Because fembot.
>>
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>>6309039

And finally, the complete combiner.

Not to spam the entire thread, if you want to see more angles, comparison shots, and the transformation sequence, head over to:

https://www.seibertron.com/energonpub/combiner-wars-albatron-an-all-female-all-helicopters-combiner--t109106.php
>>
>>6309036
>>6309039
>>6309040
Oh, um. Oh... Ok
>>
>>6309039
>tiddies
ew but also hng
>>
>>6309036
>>6309039
>>6309040

Will I get yelled at if I tell this guy his work is really bad?
>>
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>>6309039

tsss...
>>
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just finished a customized monsterarts Predator figure.
>>
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>>6309036
>>6309039
>>6309040
You do some crazy work man. Not a fan of the green metallic paint, but if your friend likes it, that's all that matters.

Looking at the boobs(sigh), you need to plan ahead for your glue/adhesive as a material that takes up space. The glue could have been hidden completely under the boobs, then use some putty to hide and smooth out the edge/join.
>>
How would you go about making custom kinkeshi? Would you just have to sculpt them out of clay/epoxy, or is there a simpler way? I'm not that good of a sculptor.
>>
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>>6310442
Forgot pic.
>>
>>6310442
You're asking if there's a simpler way to make a sculpted piece that doesn't involve sculpting? I guess you could get a whole bunch of them, hack them to pieces, and glue random limbs together.
>>
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>>6308375
Here's a rough overview of my design workflow:

>Draw a Front, Side, and Back view of the subject (or use 3D models if available)
>Break up and trace the individual parts. Figuring out where seamlines go is fairly intuitive after you've sewn a few projects.
>Calculate things like circumference and total length of the parts, and modify the pieces accordingly. This article covers it a lot better than I ever could
http://diffeomorphism.deviantart.com/art/A-Geometric-Approach-to-Making-Plushie-Patterns-441119445
>Modify the pieces as necessary to account for fabric stretch (for Shannon brand Minky I narrow the parts horrizontally by 30%, assuming the pile direction is vertical). If you don't firmly stuff your plushies, this may not be necessary.
>Pattern test
>Pattern test
>Pattern test
>Pattern test
>Decide I need to move on with my life and call the latest pattern test done

>>6310442
I never got the point of novelty/collectible erasers. It they're too cool, I don't want to use them and wear them out.
>>
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>>6310624
My process is about the same, except I don't tend to use stuffing super firmly so I don't bother with resizing for minky stretch.

Have a preview of the shit I'm working on while I wait for my fabric to print. Lil monsters that vomit themselves into bigger monsters.
>>
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>>6310322

I should use some other material to glue and fill in holes. Something more professional than this. The gluing is strong but it's messy and it's near impossible to sculpt and sand smoothly once it's dry.

Any recommendations?
>>
>>6310671
For glue, Loctite works well for Transformers plastic. Use an epoxy putty for filling in gaps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKALo63iWbc
>>
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What kind of paints do I use to paint Smooth-On plastic? I finished this Ninja Turtle figure a few months back, but the paint just ends up chipping off.
>>
>>6305446
That looks extremely professional, and spot-on to the character.
>>
>>6308656
This is an English imageboard for English speaking users.
>>
>>6312444
https://www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/145/
https://www.smooth-on.com/support/faq/141/
https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/
>>
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hey /toy, I got a bit of an interesting custom story. Several years ago I saw this picture of a custom Silver Sonic on Sonic Gear, and I made friends with the guy who made it online.
>>
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>>6314087
well fast forward a few years and he sends me a box full of figures and parts, including some of his old customs, including what was left of that Silver Sonic. I was pretty sad seeing such a great custom reduced to such a state, so I decided to give it a new life.
>>
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>>6314090
seeing how I had a heavily damaged Metal Sonic with only one leg it seemed most appropriate to make it into Captain Metal from the Sonic Universe comic, I even used a 3D pen to make those little bolt tassels on his shoulder pads. What do you think?
>>
>>6314094
It looked better when it was destroyed
>>
>>6314094
man, i wish you sanded it before the paint
>>
>>6313415
>he doesn't know /fa/ speak
>>
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Look at my super great first custom.
>>
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>>6310642
And he's the final design. They start small-
>>
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>>6316618
-And turn into bigger monsters. I'm not sure why the first photo was rotated, it's showing up correctly to me.
>>
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>>6316621
Ah well, I'll fix them later.

My favorite is the mid-transformation mode when they're vomitting up their limbs.
>>
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Been doing a repaint of the recent-ish Laser Prime figure that Hasbro released. Removing the flames on the front revealed really nice vibrant red plastic.
>>
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>>6317949
>>
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>>6317958
Doing some of the detailing on the legs in a matching blue really breaks up the black plastic.
>>
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>>6306804
>>6305446


I just suddenly remembered that DemiDevimon throws darts as an attack.

I can't wait to see more obscure Digimon from you.
>>
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Update: I'm nearing the final stretch on Sunflowmon and picked up some of the supplies I needed to finish Warumonzaemon. I also ordered some fur swatches for Phascomon. I haven't figured out how I'm going to anchor Phascomon's claws yet.

>>6312448
Thanks bruh

>>6316621
Can we have a detail photo of those claws? I want to see the pattern you printed on them.

>>6318100
Oh shit that reminds me, I forgot to make a black gear for Monzaemon. I don't have any access to machining equipment so I have no idea how I'm gonna do it, though

Which gear design does /cg/ prefer?
>>
>>6320050
sculpteo does laser cutting, perfect to get gears made
>>
Little more progress.
>>
Has anyone got any comparison pics of the Figma Archetype Next bodies next to literally any other figure in the same scale? I'm debating getting a bootleg or two but I'm not sure if they're underscaled like the previous archetypes or not
>>
>>6320175
Seconding on lazer cutting, acrylic cuts like butter and they DO sell sheets of black acrylic that can be laser cut. If you have Illustrator, build the gear as a single single closed profile, and set the outline to .001" thickness with 0,0,255 in RGB as the color. If you want anything engraved on the gears draw it out in black.

If you can't find a service that offers black acrylic, wait til September and I'll get some cut on the uni's machines.
>>
>>6282455
It resembles ACE bandage material. Is it stretchy, or does it adhere to itself a little?
>>
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In the far future, if I ever get good enough that people would want to buy my shit, what do I need to know about vacuum chambers? Is a heat pad required for resin, or is that mostly just for lab work?
>>
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>>6320381
Little googling got me 2 pics. Hope they help.
1/2
>>
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>>6320937
2/2
>>
>>6320175
>>6320425
Thanks for the tip. I have Illustrator. Laser cutters will only engrave on one side, right? How is the depth controlled in a 2d vector file?

I know a guy who does fabrication, I'll ask him if his laser cutter can handle acrylic.
>>
>>6320381
>>6320937
>>6320940
Just got a bootleg of the orange guy
definitely not disappointed. Great for the price, and for a bootleg. The figure stand it comes with is perfect too.

My only complaint is his left wrist joint wont move up an down, but that can be fixed by hearing it up right?
>>
>>6320978
Depth control is handled through cutting speed and power, it can be finicky but it can be done.
>>
>>6320978
NVM, the fabrication guy doesn't have the stuff to help me out.

>>6321382
I meant how is depth indicated on the vector file?
>>
>>6321426
It's not indicated on the file, it's determined by the laser's setting and can vary a bit. Deeper cuts require more passes.
>>
>>6321451
So I'd need to include a cross-section to indicate the depth of any engravings?
>>
>>6321459
Or just list a requested depth.
>>
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I'm not unhappy with how this turned out.
>>
>>6295882
>>6307689

Thanks, anons.
>>
>>6321376
I got Orange She Next, and she came with one-piece feet instead of the toe-articulation. Did your Orange He have toe-articulation still?
>>
>>6321814
Not that guy but I recall people mentioning the articulation on the bootlegs was garbage so they got rid of it.
>>
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>>6321814
No, no toe articulation on mine

>>6321888
The articulation works fine, outside of no toe articulation and the one stuck wrist joint I had. I can't say it's as good as the legit version because I don't have it, but definitely a good deal for for like $11-$15
>>
>>6280886
I want to mod a mawile I got so that it stops falling apart, but there's so much giant solid plastic chunks that I can't think of any way to make them lighter.
>>
>>6314094
You absolutely ruined that figure man.
>>
>>6320342
Oh shit, the entire cab was painted? What a waste of the budget. They could've used it on more detailing.
>>
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Sorry for the shitty lighting, but I wanted to show something off of my Ryona head for how long I've been working on her. Still a lot of work left and I haven't even begun sanding, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Not too happy with the ball gag face, and her bangs need a lot of work, but I'm very happy with the back of her head at least. Using a Custom Lily 19 type d for the body and outfit. I may or may not try and cut down the outfit, but I'll definitely try and make her bustier. Using HiQ's 3-b eyes, which aren't a perfect match, but I'm color blind so it's very close for me.
>>
>>6320847
>what do I need to know about vacuum chambers?
They suck.
>>
>>6322096
Just the front with flames is painted. the cab is dark blue. Red front, black flame decals into a navy blue cab. It clashes really badly all together.
>>
>>6320847
Vacuum chambers are for degassing. You typically do it with the silicone you make molds with to make sure it won't have imperfections, especially when put under pressure.

You can do it for resin too but pouring resin will inevitably cause bubbles so a lot of people tend to pressure cast resin, or vacuum it and then pressure cast it quickly (hard trick given most polyurethane resins set in under 10 minutes).

You don't need to heat a vacuum chamber. Some resins do require a mild heat (120-130F) and pressure casting, in which case you want a solid pressure pot that you can heat using a silicone heating pad. But only industrial resins will probably require heat. This isn't information you should be looking on /toy/ desu. There are more specialized forums for resin casting.

Also read this guide: http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/ch4/
You'll find some good info in there if you're serious about casting resin.
>>
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>>6314090
If you black out the eyes, sanded down the nose and did some cleanup, that could've turned into a Tom from Toonami
>>
>>6314094
It looks fine. As long as you're happy, that's all that matters. Customs are for you, unless you plan on selling them. I'm currently making a fig for a friend and he's pretty stoked, even though I think it looks terrible.
>>
>>6307555
What kind of embroidery machine do you use? I've been looking into getting an embroidery machine specifically for use in making plushies, but I'm never sure which would be a good fit.
>>
>>6322609
Lots of good information, thanks.

Now I'm definitely surprised that it's more for the mold than the resin. Even with just oomoo, I've had little trouble making molds that conform to every little nook and cranny so long as I pay attention to where bubbles are likely to form. It's the resin that always fucks me by not getting all the way into the nose, or missing a little bit of ear, or something like that.
>>
>>6323799
Try a less viscous resin with slower cure time, or pressure cast. If the issue is thin parts, then setting up a mold for squishcasting may help.
>>
>>6323799
>Now I'm definitely surprised that it's more for the mold than the resin.
It's to remove air bubbles for when you cast pressure under pressure. Airbubbles in the silicone mold might collapse and cause deformation since it's a very soft and pliable material, so you don't want any bubbles
>>
>>6321518
Oh sweet, that's an simple solution.

>>6323289
I use a Brother Innovis NQ1400E. For plushies you should definitely shell out for the biggest hoop you can (the biggest my machine takes is 6"x10"). Aside from embroidering faces and such, using the embroidery machine to sew mirrored pieces together (arms, legs, ect) can save you a lot of time and effort at the expense of using a little more material.

I've been having a very hard time finding resources on making your own embroidery patterns from scratch. All the tutorials I can find are for editing premade ones, so I've just been fumbling in the dark and going through a lot of trial and error. I wish I had an embroidery senpai :'(
>>
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The pattern is almost ready for release. Should I include a page with some rough instructions? I'm polishing up Monzaemon's pattern for rerelease too.

The fur swatches for Phascomon came in the mail, but I'm not real happy with any of them, so I ordered some more from another supplier. Finding the right fabrics seems to be a reoccurring problem for me.

I've got some fabric for Warumonzaemon's cape hanging up in the sun to bleach a bit. I'm in unfamiliar territory distressing fabric, but that's a subject that's easy to find information on.
>>
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>>6280212
Small update on that Sabrina nendo. I managed to find a new face and hairpiece that suit her look a lot better. I realised I'd made a mistake by making her torso shoulders pointed. I shaved them flat instead, so her arms can move freely. I'll add some square shoulders on her arms later. She has bigger bigger boobs than the base that I used, so I increased her bust a bit. Did a bit of sanding and polishing then.

One of my next steps is scribing some depression lines on her clothes. Like on her skirt and boot tips. Anyone have advice on how to go about and what tools make the job easy?
>>
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Progress on Ryona. Very happy with the dog collar, though I feel like it's missing something. I tried adding a D-ring and it didn't look right, though. I might head to Joanns and try to find a charm that I like. Maybe a padlock?

I figured out how to do the mouth (sculpt the top, let it dry, and then add the bottom after, using the top as a template) but I need to make it look better.

Bangs are improving, but are still definitely the worst part of the head. Back head is pretty close to done. Very pleased with that, especially her ahoges.
>>
>>6305446
Holy shit that is adorable
>>
>>6327264
Looking good
>>
>>6322218
>>6327391
This is really cute. Please post more when there's more progress.
>>
>>6327264
Go ask the gunpla thread guys, they can probably help

>>6327391
The D-ring might have looked weird because it didn't match the color/texture of the putty (assuming you used a metal one).

>>6328061
Thanks man
>>
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you guys have any idea what Mattel Elite body would go well with a Jakks Benoit head? I tried it on a Steven Regal body and the neck is a bit too long.
>>
>>6328065
>>6328435
Thanks guys. I'll try the gunpla lads later.
>>
Hey anons, I've been thinking and gathering items to make something like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rgh9jXme6OE

I've been wanting to make a 1:12 scale diorama, probably nothing this intricate, but something as interesting and nice looking as this. Have any of you attempted this and how did it turn out?
>>
>>6318100
Thanks this made me want to make a demidevimon plush, hopefully it goes well.
>>
>>6328435
>The D-ring might have looked weird because it didn't match the color/texture of the putty
I think it's just a bit too cluttered at that scale. I might have to make a second specifically bondage collar.
>>
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>>6328638
Do you want a working waterfall, or just a rocky background? Remember, Lizard landscapes is for animals, so he has to use non-toxic materials/sealants.

Check out the The Terrain Tutor for different types of tutorials(basic hills/cliffs and buildings).
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheTerrainTutor/playlists
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLohbeH3fTP1sy244bli51FN-QtNURIQzs

Here's how to make a hill from Mini War Gaming. You can skip ahead about 8 minutes to the materials list pictured here. Beware that squeaky sound of cutting foam board.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DsTFNU7-Rs&list=PLD8D977B331063C7C&index=42

Cheap waterfall tutorial.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaO5-gpZJ6I
Woodland Scenics products waterfall(I'd really like to replicate this for a Gundam scene).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ovNbnjRUNQ

If you're into doing some bonsai, check out this book.
https://www.amazon.com/Creating-Bonsai-Landscapes-Miniature-Projects/dp/1580174841
>>
any advice on sculpting ears into a figuart head?
>>
>>6331599
What kinda ears? Like catgirl-type ears, elf ears, or human ears?
>>
any airbrush recommendations for a cheap beginner? mostly for use with base coats and layers (not too concerned with small details atm)
>>
>>6331599
>Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.

>For sculpting on figures: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.

You'll want to drill some kind of hole for the epoxy to key into.

>>6332011
Here's a really cheap one. But places like Michael's and Hobby Lobby often have 40% off coupons so you could get a better name brand(support, spare parts) one for a decent price.
https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=131905843440&&&chn=ps
>>
>>6332011
I don't know how cheap you're looking, but if you need a compressor and not just the brush, this is what I started with and I haven't really felt the need to upgrade anything.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>>
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Tried my hand at digitally designing a face. Still needs work, and it'll have to be printed in High-Definition Acrylate for preserving details while being more durable than FUD/FXD.
>>
>>6333709
Fuck, forgot my trip.
>>
>>6331599
>>6331973
>>6332140
It's a D Arts Terry Bogard, so fucking it up wont be a total lost, I want to like it but its lack of ears just piss me off
>>
So I want to start making some Dark Souls themed customs out of Steelbane and some of the movie Dinobots.

Looking for tips as I'm pretty new to painting. I'm guessing an airbrush would be a good idea for getting a nice layer of black/silver/gunmetal and then doing a wash of silver or black depending on what I went with for the base color. Then add some dry brushing?

Also do people still consider Future to be a decent sealant?
>>
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Haven't had that much time to sew lately, but tonight I discovered the head is too big fffffffffffffff

I'm kinda liking the oversized arms of Sunflowmon 2.0 more than the 3.0's accurately sized ones, but maybe I'll feel differently with a new head.

>>6328791
You should give it a shot, my amigo
>>
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Need some advice.

What should I look for in sewing equipment that will get me a fine stitch? I prototyped this out with an old t-shirt and have four yards of different colors of modal on the way to play with, but I'm going to want to add wiring to the cape and figure I'll need a sewing machine that'll do a fine stitch--and I'm completely in the dark about what to get and don't want to spend a ton of money.
>>
Any 3D printers here? Anyone got a good obj or ST for ball or hinge joints? I have some hobby base ones coming but wouldn't mind printing my own.
>>
>>6336165
For something that small, you're probably best off hand-sewing. If you go for a machine, you just use a low stitch length (I imagine any machine on the market will let you adjust the stitch), and pinning the fabric to some tissue paper to keep it from getting caught in the machine.

If you want to sew a stretchy fabric like tricot or modal on a sewing machine, you'll want some ballpoint needles, and possibly a walking foot (I finally sprung for one to sew on minky and let me tell you the difference is amazing)
>>
>>6336224
Ask papi anon about how most of his printed joints never worked quite right.
>>
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>>6336520
Pff! I chuckled reading that (it's true).

>>6336224
What material(s) are you using? Shapeways' SLS Nylon (WSF) can work in ball-sockets provided that you do the following:

-Walls must be NO MORE THAN 2MM THICK in the file
-The socket diameter is a hair smaller than the male ball-end (I use 0.15mm difference between diameters of the male and female parts)
-The socket has some cuts (depending on the design) that allow flex to pop in/out the ball end as needed.
-Interestingly, sockets made from Shapeways' soft SLS polyurethane (Elasto-Plastic) work well for ball joints provided that you leave cuts in the elasto sockets' lips for easy popping in/out of the ball end.

Any of that make sense/help?

On a separate note, pic-related update on the extant animals designs I've been working on.
>>
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Sick of Combiners yet?
Hope not, i've been working on a Soundwave combiner. I have the limbs pretty much done.
>>
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>>6336647
When I get a chance I'm going to make seismic hammers for these two. Rumble looks like he could use another coat here and there. I'm having a tough time with Soundwave himself since I don't have proper sized heads for him (Robot or Combiner)
>>
>>6336329
Thanks! I'll look up those terms and see what I can find for a budget machine.
>>
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>>6336655
A ballpoint needle has a blunt end, so it can slip between the fibers of knit fabrics without tearing them. Just check a package of sewing needles to see if it's Universal, Ballpoint, Heavyweight, or whatever.

The presser foot is the part that holds fabric still for the needle, a walking foot lifts up during each stitch to move the fabric. It's used things that are difficult to sew on like thick, stretchy, or plush materials.

If you want a good sewing machine for cheap, I'd go with a vintage model. Look for a local sewing machine store and see if they can hook you up.

The new machines basically just offer more fancy stitch settings and a lighter weight. The old machines are built like tanks and can last basically forever if well-maintained. My old Singer lasted more than 40 years before a hard to replace part broke.
>>
>>6336579
Currently using ABS nothing too complicated. Couldn't find anything on line so I'm in the middle of attempting to design my own. My issue is tolerances which is hard to calculate. Since my 3D modeling program despite being very accurate cannot account for the variables in the actual print job. I've almost successfully created a ball joint just fucked up one thing. Making a lever joint is my challenge at the size I'm going for.
>>
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Bought SHF The Rock and he had a bunch of extra heads, so I whittled down the neck post of an extra black series new order trooper I had stashed away. Nothing too complicated, but I really like how it turned out.
>>
>>6337174
Do you have your own printer or are you using a site like Shapeways or Sculpteo?
>>
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>>6337214
Using my own printer. Just got it last weekend and I'm pushing it to the limit with a challenge. Tho I think I shouldve stuck with something more simple to learn the intricacies of joint clearances and tolerance for cutting limbs.
>>
>>6337318
Yeah, testing out tolerances with small parts would probably be the best way to start. It's taken me off and on over a year to get my 5mm joints right and that's from finding out the sweet-spot of Shapeways's accuracy being +/-0.15mm. No experience with 3D printed ABS, so afraid I can't help you there on properties and tolerances. Just keep at it and take notes of the errors to learn from.
>>
>>6336668
Thanks for the awesome reply.
I do have an old machine lying around but for the life of me I cannot get the bobbin going. I've had people who know how to use these machines come over and try to get it going but even they have problems.
>>
>>6336647
>>6336648
Nice paintwork, though the blue Rumble/Frenzy doesn't look quite right somehow. Can't put my finger on why though.
>>
>>6337368
Thanks, I think I used the wrong blue. If it were lighter it would contrast with the purple more.
>>
>>6337361
No prob, man

You may be able to find a copy of the machine's manual online (assuming you don't have one lying around). Did the bobbins you're using come with the machine, or did you buy them later? Bobbins are not universally compatible, unfortunately. Of course, that part may just be broken. That's what did my faithful old Singer in.
>>
>>6336579
Yeah, I meant no disrespect by it, just people come in here and think like "Oh I can 3d print this thing right now with zero experience and it'll be amazing!" when like you have busted your ass for a year or more and haven't gotten there yet.
>>
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I made my first ever "custom"
It's really just a Ja-Ru slime thing but I saw the barrel and knew it would fit in scale with 1/6 figures. I tried to sand it down to weather it but I think the paint kinda did that on its own. I'd love some opinions on how well I did.
>>
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>>6338025
>>
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>>6338027
Trying not to spam too much
>>
>>6337934
Lol, none taken. And yes, that's totally what happened to me when I first started using Shapeways. You do have to get a feel for the limitations and tolerances of whatever materials and printers you use before you can even start to get some consistency in prints.
>>
>>6337327
Just an update as a an FYI Ball joints look to be impossible with abs as it doesnt deform enough. You can probably do hybrid lever joints but I rather wait for hobby base joints to come in.
>>
>>6338245
If you're willing to experiment, you could make polycaps using Shapeways' Elastoplastic. I plan on doing that soon.
>>
>>6338285
Looks interesting. It's a stat holiday here so everything is closed but going to make a trip to the hardware store tomorrow morning to grab some tiny screws to experiment with tension based lever joints. I also have an express shipment of hobby base joints.
>>
>>6337318
If you're just making a swivel joint, with ABS it's better to use 100% infill, print a small pilot hole and then drill it to size using 0.1mm smaller size bit than the intended size. So you might want to drill using a 2.9mm bit for a 3mm peg. ABS and HIPS can expand up to 30% before breaking, so you do have some wriggle room. It's how modelers scratch build joints btw. It probably won't be as good as injection molding but it's a proven method at least.

For ball joints a hard plastic probably isn't the best idea. There were a number of aftermarket ball joints made from ABS or polystyrene that would crack over time.
>>
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Asking anyone with experience sculpting.
Does this face look easy enough to sculpt for a first time attempt?
>>
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Working on this Razor Ramon. Just need to add the chest hair. Got the Hogan Basic figure for the body and removed the lower half so I can but on the Razor legs. Though I may got thicker legs so it looks less like a cartoon proportions. Have the belt on cuz the torso sticks out badly. Cuz the pelvis is much smaller. So gonna leave the belt on to hide it. Just wish the belt wasn't so bulky.
>>
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>>6338756
maybe I could have just gotten the older Jakks figure and save all the pain it was to crack the body and wouldn't need to paint it.
>>
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>>6338762
The crappy fitting that I am hiding with the belt. I may have to sand it down some day so it is some what flush.
>>
>>6338754
Will this literally be your first time sculpting something? If so, you're going to have a hard time.

If you have sculpting skills already, maybe not as difficult.

Are you sculpting a copy or a face with modified facial features? If you're just trying to replicate it you're better off getting silicone and resin to make a casting instead.
>>
>>6338927
First time sculpting with epoxy-like materials.
I used to be decent at sculpting when I was on school but I haven't done anything like that since then.

>Are you sculpting a copy or a face with modified facial features? If you're just trying to replicate it you're better off getting silicone and resin to make a casting instead.
It's a bit complicated. The face is from a small figure (basic/scout/legends size) and I'd be copying it to make a faceplate for a titan master to replace an upscaled version of that small figure.
I can't cast it because I can't find the upscaled version anywhere, which is why I'm resorting to sculpting; also, I have no idea what tools I need.
I could just shove TR Galvatron's head but with the prices for these things in my country it is cheaper to do this than to buy one.
>>
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>>6338754
>Does this face look easy enough to sculpt for a first time attempt?
No, but go for it, you'll get better with every try.

I failed trying to find the pics of someone making a custom Transformers head out of popsicle sticks/wood. But here's someone making a Kakashi head using a similar technique, using an art template. Make a 2D drawing/print, The Kakashi guy used pencil and the clay lifted the pencil off the paper, you could do that or get some calipers to make measurements, or even cut out pieces of the paper as templates to cut out flat pieces of clay for the "helmet" part of the head. If you're using a self hardening epoxy, that limits your sculpting time, try sculpting faces on a flat hard surface that you can cut to fit inside the head, then make the helmet out of flat pieces you can cut.

>>6338927
If I remember correctly he's making a larger version(Explorer class?), so maybe some Hydro-Span to enlarge.
>>
>>6339030
I spent too much time typing that. lol

>>6338989
>tools
You don't need most the tools I'm posting here, you mostly just need something to move the clay around. Something flat and sharp like an x-acto blade can cut the clay, flatten it and move/remove some unwanted materials. Something like a rounded ball can shape and move clay around. A loop is for removing clay. A dental pick can move clay around carve lines/details in the clay.
>>
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>>6316622
New version done, he's like a foot tall.
>>
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>>6339071
>>
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>>6339075
I think over the summer I'm going to redo the panels and modify the pattern a bit. So far, though, reception's been really good.
>>
>>6280212
How do I make my Splatoon Inkling look like OP's picture? I feel like my figure's paint is really off (eyes are off, mouth isn't centered) I just want my inkling to look great like the amiibros.
>>
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jurassic-park-chaos-effect-unreleased-Ultimasaurus-prototype-3d-model-/252952843866?hash=item3ae52a165a:g:w4kAAOSwVm5Y~~v2
Do you guys think this is worth it?
70$ seems like a lot to pay for a 3D model and I'm not sure I could make it look right.
>>
>>6339221
It looks a bit off.
>>
>>6339278
In what way?
Are you talking about accuracy or price?
>>
>>6339295
The accuracy probably but I dunno.

The proce seems low for a large model, how big are you printing it?
>>
>>6339030
what is that thing in 4,5 and 6 is diferent¿
is it a vacuum cleaner?
>>
>>6340012
Probably some kind of suction system, yeah. He's dremeling, which creates a lot of fine dust and that will fuck up your lungs if you breathe it in.
>>
>>6339030
How the fuck do people do this? I don't feel like I can get any precision with a dremel, it's just too big and unwieldy to hold right. Anyone else have this problem, or are my tiny child hands to blame?

>>6339075
>>6339078
That's a good idea, the printed patterns could read better than they do now. I'm really digging those claws.
>>
>>6340348
I do the opposite. I have a big drill press that I attach dremel bits to and manipulate the toy parts by hand around and against the drill bits.
>>
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>>6339086
Previous thread...
https://archive.nyafuu.org/toy/thread/6223116/#6275402

Remove paint and very carefully repaint. Looks like a gloss sealant on the eyes as well.
>I use Irisawa V color thinner,Soft Vinyl thinner.
>>
>>6340348
There's the Flex Shaft attachment, Mr. President.

>>6340413
>I have a big drill press that I attach dremel bits to and manipulate the toy parts by hand around and against the drill bits.
That's a damn good idea.
>>
>>6340490
Ohhhhhhh, thank you!
>>
>>6340413
I envy your setup amigo, I'm in an apartment and don't got anywhere for that kinda shit.

>>6340503
kek
Oh shit that does look infinitely better to work with.
>>
>>6341026
Well, 'big' is kinda subjective. It takes about as much space as a computer tower if not a couple inches taller and wider. I bought it secondhand from a local pawn shop for about $70 several years ago. Check the pawnshops in your area and see if they're the right size for the space you can afford, anon.
>>
NEW THREAD
NEW THREAD
NEW THREAD
>>6342268
>>6342268
>>6342268
NEW THREAD
NEW THREAD
NEW THREAD
>>
>>6310442
If you don't want to sculpt you can go the hack route and just chop off limbs and bits off other ones to combine into bootleggy ones. Then to finish them you can create a casting of that to dissolve seams into one solid piece.
Thread posts: 310
Thread images: 96


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