Welcome to the Gunpla/Plamo General

Group Build results: https://gelgoogguy.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/non-gundam-group-build/

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>>6218135
>2 entries only

It is still technically March 1 in the continental US so here goes my entry.

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>>6218139
>start a project for group build after the New Years
>surely 2 months will be enough time
>mid February realize that there is at least a month of work left
>grab 1/20 Ranka as plan B
>on Sunday realize that there are too many paint apps and March 1 is not happening
>grab this F15, glue together and decal in a day
This is my plan C.

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>>6218147

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>>6218149

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>>6218150

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>>6218152
Size comparison.

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>>6218153
Tomytec decals are never easy.

These particular ones need to be cut out of the sheet, you need to let them float on the surface on the water paper side down (not submerged) and if you bend them they shatter into little pieces like glass. Fun times.

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>>6218163
The pictures are uploaded here: https://anonymousmodeler.imgur.com/

>>6218139
Oh shit, I'll add it.

>>6218153
your landing gear legs could do with washes

>>6218196
Good point.

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>>6218132
>My joke pic made the OP
Th-thanks

Was planning on doing a samus thing, but I'm not sure if I want to start another project yet.

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>>6217876
Welp, I didn't got a shop right because I'm a dumb phoneposter.
Can I get a pic of the Hugo's legs unarmored on the same angle as pic related? I'm using it for reference for how pieces would look on the legs.

Sorry for being demanding. The other pics have helped, though.

>>6218163
That sounds like a miserable experience. The end product looks good, but damn.

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A friend just recently gift pic related.
For someone who never did Zoids, should I build this for my first Zoids kit or should I get something else to practice first? I'm afraid of fucking it up.

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>>6218749

if youre planning to prep & paint it, original Tomy Zoids are a lot of work due to having MUCH harder plastic than koto zoids or the small tomytec MSS zoids, expect to spend a long time sanding & deseaming. Some parts on Tomy zoids also use a quite rubbery material that doesnt take paint very well, not sure if the one your pic has any of the rubbery stuff or not but i have the Bio Tryranno (pic related) from the same series and that does.

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>>6218748
Luckily there were only 4 tail decals to apply.

If every single little marking on that plane was a decal, now THAT would have really ruined my day.

>>6218135
Do a non gunpla groupbuild again. I got lazy with my Round Buckler and said fuck it.

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I'm balls-deep in Tamiya acrylics and finally making the step from cans to airbrushing paints, my question is pic related a valid primer and what'd the mixing ratio be?

>>6218808
looks good man, i hope you're happy with it

>>6218815
i just ran out of time to start and my buddies are fucking me around (fuck you eden and in2, cunts), years going too fucking quick

>>6218804
Hoo damn, I am planning to paint it, but well it can't be helped if that's the issue.
Also, rubbers? How rubbery are we talking? Fuck, I'm dreading if it'll disintegrate in some years or so. Is there some ways to make the rubber parts more durable or something?

>>6218816
1:1

Gray >>> white for surface prep, white is good for really bright colors though

Vinyl tracks and PVC in general do NOT like this primer.

>>6218824
>Also, rubbers? How rubbery are we talking?

theres a few type of rubber materials in tomy zoids, the first is the small rubber grommet things that hold large assemblies together, these are on pretty much every tomy zoid & despite feeling very rubbery, actually take paint o.k and are fairly durable.

The second type is what I can only guess is a type of PVC tomy uses. This is usually any sharp spike, blade or claw, it flexes & bends like crazy and is absolutely impossible to sand or deseam. I'm guessing they use this stuff to pass toy safety standards model kits dont need to adhere to.

the third type is a usually on metallic pieces, but is harder and can be sanded to some degree, but paint & primer dont seem to want to stick to it. This stuff is also prone to warping out of shape, Ive had several tomy zoids with warped metallic parts right out of the box (for example my tomy beserk fuhrer had 2 warped blades & my geno breakers huge claws were very bent on one side).

Honestly if I was you, i'd start on either a Koto D-Style or tomytech MSS zoid kit first, then move up to the Koto HMM kits later.

>>6218804
how does this actually look like out of the box build with just nub removal and seam removal?

Is there any lineart for FAGs at all?

>>6218336
No problem man, when I get home from work I'll pose legs for ya.

>>6218846
>the third type is a usually on metallic pieces, but is harder and can be sanded to some degree, but paint & primer dont seem to want to stick to it.

Use automotive primer.

Thanks to the anon in the last thread who recommended using make-up brushes to de-dust some kits.

They work so much better than compressed air/microfiber cloths.

>>6218815
>>6218135
I have a kit but due to winter couldn't build it until things warm up a bit.

>>6218816
You're going to need lacquer thinner if you plan on using that.

>>6218877
http://greattoysonline.proboards.com/thread/4839/zoids-genesis-002-tyranno-review
>>6218804
>>6218749
>>6218824
>>6218846

http://greattoysonline.proboards.com/thread/4898/zoids-genesis-008-volcano-review

my assumption is that the purple runners are the rubber parts. It should be pointed at to everyone that Biozoids had a LOT more rubber then normal zoids. to the point that they had entire armor parts of rubber, they are not a typical zoid both in show and in kit form.

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Painted the interior of the funnels the other night. They were originally some off white/tan/grey color. JA grey seemed to work just fine.

>>6218975
And here is what I got so far. Waiting for some metal parts to come in from Chingchongchina. I still have a number of funnel parts to paint as well as the head, hands and about 20 tiny parts to make it done. Afterwards decals and a tiny bit of weathering and it'll be done. I can see the finish line guys.

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>>6218979
Weird, photo didn't upload. Bet the fucker is gonna go sideways now too...

>>6218981
...son of a bitch...

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Your face when you fuck up a model?
Pic related.

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>>6219014
Your face when it was an expensive model and its a small fuck up but you can't correct it so you've gotta order a whole new set.

>>6219014
That fits my expression perfectly.

>>6219017
>>6219017
that was me when I lost a single tiny part of an ankle for my HMM Shadow Fox. It just completely vanished somehow on the runner. It must have popped off the runner from being shifted against another runner.

Led me to learning how to cast duplicate parts, thankfully I had three more ankles of the same mold. still took forever to get right.

>>6219014
>break a piece during disassembly

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>>6219014
>tfw your first kit was a complicated Koto kit where you cut the pieces off directly instead of leaving nubs

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>>6219014
Every gouge, every sloppy application of whatever chemical etc

>>6219088
I still cut directly sometimes.

>>6219122
Same, especially if it's obvious it's inside and will never bee seen again.

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>>6219088
>>tfw your first kit was a complicated Koto kit where you cut the pieces off directly instead of leaving nubs
Try a Thunderbolt FAG...

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>>6219122
>>6219141
I severely stressed the plastic on some parts when I did and wasn't experienced with sanding. I can probably go back and fix it, but after realizing my mistake I was despairing.

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>>6219014
>trying to fix the mistake just makes it worse

>>6219233
Yep, happened to me with the head crest (or whatever you call it) on my rezel
Feels bad man

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>>6219014
>you tear a sticker trying to reseat it properly

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Got my Shiki 2.0 today. Hype levels escalated

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>>6219233
>Paint scraped/part broke during final assembly on a long project.

>>6218985
Resize your picture to make it easier on data and not have it sideway

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>>6219014
Since I got so many replies I'll tell you what happened.

>Working with custom resin kit
>Everything going well despite the amount of work required
>Finally drill the perfect whole for the custom's joint
>Joint works perfectly together.
>Chest piece is finally done and I can move onto the last few pieces.
>Putting the head on and torso+chest joint makes it difficult so I disassemble that part
>Head is A+ job.
>Put torso back together
>Be sliding joint into place
>Joint's nub suddenly moves to the side rapidly when it pops into it's joint
>Hand nicks razor sharp edge of chest
>Thin plastic at edge which makes up a piece of the "armor" (couldn't make it safer) literally shatters
>Hand bleeding and model ruined
>Why even live?

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>>6219349
>H-heh, don't worry guys!
>I've already ordered another for the piece
>I-It was only 60 dollars
>Only have to wait a few weeks now to complete it and show /toy

>>6219349

pics?

>>6219349
Make a blood pact with you gunpla kit. The cost will be heavy, but it is the only way to redeem yourself.

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Are there any series or brands of effect parts you guys would recommend for gunpla posing?

>>6219352
Its irredeemable nor is it something that can be fixed. Its maybe a 2-5 mm area that's been effected and that area was all hyper thin resin. It would be like putting together a shattered window for ants, pretty sure a lot of it just traveled across the room at mach 20.

>>6219364
just post it already

(yes, even your hand if possible)

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>>6219361
Kotobukiya m.s.g. and bandai Figuarts make effect parts.

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>>6218336
Will this do?

>spend 3 minutes building and 30 minutes looking for the piece that vanished in front of your eyes
I'm sick of it

>>6219458
Yeah. Thanks, man.

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>>6219513
No problem!

>>6219504
And this is why I can never build a robot that matches my carpet. Good thing not many suits come in tan.

Want to hear weird? I was building a gunpla and had a piece shoot off when I was trying to gently pry it off from the polycap, and somehow it ended up on my bed next to my pillow two days later.

Gunpla gnomes maybe?

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Almost done with Zaku Tank

>>6219536
If there is a Gunpla fairy, I want to meet it.

[s]and fuck it.[/s]

>>6219547
Welp, I'm an idiot who doesn't know how spoiler tags work.

>>6219549
It's the tags [therearenospoilers][/ontoy]

>>6219364
>>6219349
>>6219351
Build the second one perfectly. Build this one as a battle-damaged model.

Do you guys think there's any chance of the Revive Hyaku-Shiki ever being released in vac-metalized gold chrome? I already painted mine gold, and it's...unsatisfying. I need that hyper-shiny gold coat.

>>6219364
But I wanna see the damage anyway. Don't leave us hanging here.

>>6219546
HONK HONK!

>>6219547
Depending on the type of fairy, I might share your sentiments. Even so, the idea of never losing a piece sounds great.

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>>6219570

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>>6219574

>>6219546

how is the quality on that kit? is the torso based on the mg zaku 2.0 mainly?

Im thinking about buying one soon, cheapest ive found is $45usd with free shipping.

>>6219890
It's alright. The plastic is clearly 3D printer plastic. The mold is good, but requires SOME clipping of connection pegs that were molded too long for the holes they connect to.

Don't bother using the hands as the fingers are terrible. The claws are bad enough, but the fingers don't fit in the slots at all.

Some of the joints, particularly the arm pegs, are very weak and snap easily, you have to be careful there. It does come with an led kit, but it requires self solder and doesn't show where the wires feed through the model, so you have to use some common sense and planning before assembling

>>6219912
What?

3D printer plastic is just regular plastic.

>>6219922
Yes, but it has the obvious 3D printer texture you only get off of 3D printed plastic. That weird, kinda grainy feel

>>6219922
1. There's not just one type of plastic. Most Bandai models use PVC plastic with ABS plastic. Like Tamiya liquid cement works well with PVC but not with a lot of other types of plastic. Hell, there's even multiple types of different 3D printed plastic.

2. The way parts are made with 3D printing, they get weird textures. Sometimes like grainy, sometimes really dusty. Whereas Bandai kits are usually molded, giving it a smoother texture.

>>6219912
>>6219940
As for where I bought mine, I got it off of New Gundam Central

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Maymayz

>>6219979
Gunpla uses almost no PVC, or at least I haven't seen any for as long as I've built them. They use PE for soft plastic and PS for most parts, with MGs often using some type of ABS for inner frame parts and other load bearing parts.

Tamiya's liquid cement is made for PS, the most common kind of plastic found in gunpla since it reacts to almost any kind of common plastic solvent, making it easy to cement parts together without damaging the plastic. PVC is a plastic that responds to almost nothing, which is why it's almost impossible to paint, and also found in a lot of water piping. Soft PVC is only found in action figures and almost never models.

I have two 3D printers and one of them is custom designed and made. I know you can print with multiple types of plastic. but I think it's clear the Zaku tank isn't 3D printed. Polystyrene is usually printed using FDM printers, in which case you get layers because the plastic is laid on top of itself like a continuous stream of bricks or a poop pile. It won't have a dusty texture it'll have a smooth one direction, ribbed the other texture. SLS printing will give you grainy plastic but it's extremely expensive for good prints so a Chinese company would never use it to sell cheap knockoffs, and PS almost can't be used (it exists though) because it'll crack very easily meaning you can't use it for anything other than large objects. Nylon is more common but it's decently tough, but hard to paint or won't bond using a solvent cement like Tamiya's cements.

Most likely the metal molds Hobbyking used is just poorly milled and/or they sprayed release agent that's not great and gave the plastic a texture. Try cleaning it in warm soapy water. Injection molding is a complicated process and the problems are probably because Hobbyking isn't particularly good at making molds or has old, shitty machines that cooked the plastic until it degraded and the parts turned brittle or warped.

>>6219979
And I want to point out the reason why you pay for Bandai Hobby is because they're the kings of what they do. Their mold engineering and molding are second to none and besides a few bad kits they're unmatched at making molded plastic.

A lot of toys have shitty, brittle plastic or warped parts from time to time. It's probably because whoever they hired to make the toys just do whatever they want, but Bandai Hobby does it all in house and it really shows. They almost never have bad kits even though they pump gunpla out like candy.

Of course, it's nice that Hobbyking is making custom designs, it's too bad they're just nowhere near as good as Bandai at making plastic.

So do I need to top coat a painted kit before using real touch markers?

I was trying to do some panel lining on a kit, but the ink wouldn't smear or blend at all like it does on an unpainted part.

>Spend money on paints and supplies
>It's been a week of wind and rain
>Can't get a single primer layer on

I just want to start practicing

>>6220114
>finally get an airbrush and compressor
>it's been sitting in my closet for the past 2 weeks b/c I'm at uni and there's nowhere to paint
iktf

>>6220114
>>6220158

>finally get an CNC milling machine
>i didn't make anything from it except sculpting soap bars into N64 quality greek statuettes


ffff fuck machines, its more satisfying to build models with my own hands

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Any other kits with this sort of coat tail like Miss Sazabi and GP03 Stamen?

>>6220189
What CNC did you get?

>>6220189
>N64 quality greek statuettes
I demand pictures

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>>6220202

why spend 600 usd to buy a PS4 or an iphone when you can burn all that money into a CNC milling machine?

i should had invested all those shekels into stock market

I'm looking to upgrade my set of files. For a long time I've been using a bastard file for removing lots of material/leveling surfaces, and a simple three file set. I don't even remember the brand. The set contains a flat, a half round, and a round file with rubber grips. No markings whatsoever, and they have a blue rubber carrying pouch with a clear front. They might be Hasegawa? Anywho, I find them to be too coarse to use for finishing surfaces, and I'd like some recommendations for a set of fine files. Budget is of no real concern, but I don't want to pay like $50+ for a hand made file.

Also, I'm using the files correctly. Steady strokes in one direction running down the length of the file. The files I'm currently using leave shallow streaks down the entire workpiece.

>>6220218
>chink toy cnc
Shoulda got a deepgroove1

>>6220226
I don't think hand files will ever finish a surface, but I believe mineshima makes some good ones

>>6220226
You're looking for single-cut pattern, graded smooth or swiss cut #2 files for finishing. But that's more for metal applications, for plastics just jump to 800, then 1000+ grit sandpaper progressively for finishing.

Personally I use diamond files for shaping because they are like permanent 200 grit sandpaper on a stick. They are also rust-resistant due to the chromium layer.

>>6220226

files are no good for finishing plastic. Most important is having the correct size & shape for the job more than anything else, any decent quality brand will do. for plastic finishing, 400 - 2000 grit wet & dry sandpaper is the cheap option. If you dont mind spending a bit more, Wave file sticks (get both soft & hard) from HLJ are absolutely god tier on plastic, after i tried them its my main go to for sanding. Also absolutely amazing (if you do shiny gloss finishes) are the god hand sanding sponge sets, theres a finishing set with 5 sponges ranging from 4000 grit to 10000 grit, these are amazing for evening out a surface without damaging fine details or for getting a near mirror finish on clear cote.

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>Rapier has a little drone on the back
Cuuuuute! Fag when? I want this far more than Dinosaur Chick.

Anyone else's Helmwige kit smell weird when they first opened it?

Mine's very pungent plastic smell.

>>6220370
Try washing it in warm soap water?

Ordered a HG Nu Gundam, and in the process of setting it up and cutting out pieces I came to realize it was missing Runner A. Reported it to the seller/shop and now they sent a vaguely wrote letter telling me they want it back, but that it was sold as is complete.

Would it be stupid of me to just disregard this, keep the kit and buy a new Nu, and see about using silicon to mold the parts I need from A?

>>6220433
Where did you buy?

>>6220370
Nope.

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>>6220433

same thing happened to me recently, but i'd had it sitting on my shelf for a couple of years before deciding to build it so i'm kinda fucked about reporting it to the store (Mandarake). Mine is missing a single runner of parts and the kit is long discontinued (pic related). I'm going to try scratchbuild the missing bits from the instruction pics.

Hope you get a more positive result anon, at least you noticed before it was too late.

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So I airbrushed chrome silver on top of gloss black on top of airbrushed fine surface primer, all tamiya, on a few spoons for practice. The black coat had pretty heavy orange peeling, but the people I showed this to say they can't see any orange peeling on the silver coat whatsoever.

Am I doing this alright, or am I going about it wrong?

>>6220553
I think you shouldn't use tamiya metallics, I've tried gunmetal myself and it's pretty grainy too

>>6220553
It's not orange peel, it's just poor coverage.

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>never built a model before, let alone a gundam
>roommate gave me a MG one
>finishing it felt more rewarding than all the vidya from the past 4 years
new hobby has been found. thank you glorious nippon

>>6220553

airbrush primer, let it dry (buff with 2000grit (or 4000 or 8000 if you have polishing gear) for the black, tamiya X1 enamel 70% with tamiya X2 thinner 30% (mix well) then mist a light coat on barely covering the surface (giving it tooth to stick to), wait 3 mins, then give the whole thing a full coverage one slow pass at a time, the second one area looks wet move to the next, never target the same area too long and never stop moving. it takes practice.

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>>6220605
read guide

Also its march when do I get my catgril

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>>6220553
>Am I doing this alright, or am I going about it wrong?

your doing it very wrong.

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>>6219014

>>6219277
Stay hyped.

One of the best straight out of box builds I've ever done.

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>>6220620
>catgirl
Tell me everything you know!

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>>6220663
Shes a fag

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>>6219570
>Gyanko or Fumina wearing a Turn A cosplay.
>"No. Keep the moustache on."

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>>6220605
I know exactly how you fee.

>be me bored beyond shit
>decide to brows /toy/ because whe the fuck not
>see random gunpla thread, never heard of gunpla before but always had this hidden love for mechs
>browse thread, seeing all these awsome robots

Never have i felt such an attraction towards a hobby before. Ordered my first mg lately, pic related, gonna enjoy the shit out of it

>>6220673
I really really hate how the Materia/Innocentia have that really shitty crotch piece. It completely ruins them.

I'd rather have the naked Gourai/Stylet style but I'm not paying that retarded BD price to get them.

>>6220687

Fuck i hate phone posting, sorry people for these horrible typos

>>6220689
You could sand it down and paint her a proper pantsu, or copy the anime design bodysuit

I actually agree with you, but I think the more irksome thing is the backplate not covering up the joints when moving

>>6220605
Welcome to plastic hell; don't forget, you're here forever.

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>>6220605
God do I feel this. I love Super Robot Wars OG and bought a Alteisen Riese model kit. Then I bought Rein Weissritter. Then I bought an IBO kit from a local comic shop. Flash forward and now I have a huge backlog and no motivation because depression.

But I still love this hobby to death. It's helped me recover from a point where I was absolutely without passion or even inclination to like anything.

Anyway, sorry for blogposting.

>>6220687
Pretty much the same with me, for some reason I decided to check /a/'s buyfag guide and it had a link to the gunpla guide. After reading it like 3 times I bought my first kit and felt a joy I hadn't felt since I was a kid.

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>>6220673
Holy shit. Gimme dat.
Where can I preorder.

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Well I picked up some starship filth for panel lines and some overall weathering. I am not dissapointed. Love the color to it.

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Kimaris Vidar is out today in nipland.
Strange, I swear the first gunpla pic of it was only 2 weeks ago and now it's out already.
I thought it's gonna be released late March or early April.
Has this ever happened before?

Also, the KV's kit purple use previous Kimaris' inner frame plastic color. Wonder if it's manufacturing error or something

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>>6220756
Oh yeah, KV's feet can plant his feet (almost) flat on the ground, just that it's weird looking

>>6220693
>copy the anime design bodysuit
not him but also someone not liking the design, can you throw up a picture or link? don't see anymateria/innocentia in the anime trailers I looked at.

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>>6220767

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>>6220734
Usual buyfag shops, although I dont know if preorders are still open since its releasing this month.

>>6220775
Such a simple change and it already looks 80% better.

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>>6220780
I was a little curious myself so I went and made some changes

I think I like the left one the mos

>>6220800
I'll probably end up doing something like the middle one for simplicity's sake. The crotch angle is a bit too high for this to really look good without painting a bit of the leg though.

>>6220775
thank you very much. Yeah definitely looks a lot better.

>>6220756
>>6220758

I still don't understand the colour scheme, with pants and all. Go Vidar or Kimaris colours, not half and half like this.

>>6220591
I think my hobby shop has some Mr. Color and Vallejo Air, I'll look into it. I don't think it has Alclad though.

>>6220597
Because of the paint itself, or my shitty airbrushing of it?

>>6220617
Do the Tamiya enamels spray better than the acrylics for this? I figured I could pick up some polishing compound and try smoothing out the black coat before applying the metallics, but if the enamels work better I'll give that a try instead.

>>6220622
Hot DAMN those are some shiny spoons you got there, anon. What's your secret?

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>>6220617
> tamiya X1 enamel 70% with tamiya X2 thinner 30% (mix well)
>tamiya X2 thinner
tamiya enamels are rather thick, I question your assertion that 70/30 mix would be sprayable
also x2 is gloss white, not a thinner

are you sure you know what you are talking about?

Newfag in painting here, can you clean up mistakes you make with acrylic paints like you would with enamel + thinner or do you have to scrape it off?

>>6220820
honestly if the bulky armor plating were white and the inner frame that dark grey/black, this mech would have looked much better... I might still grab this though.

>>6220756
where's the review link? would like to see more... also am very surprised that this came out before the vual... which had a prototype revealed for much, much longer... and I want the vual way more.

>>6220883
>http://schizophonic9.com/re4/hg_kimarisvidar.html
>http://hobbynotoriko.yumenogotoshi.com/hg-ibo-kimaris-vidar.html

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>>6220887
thanks anon... I have to admit this design is growing on me. I actually do like the head and upper torso design, with the shield-wings. Only thing that bothers me is that I wish the bulky armor plating on the legs were actually white on top of the black frame. This pose right here is actually making me really liking this more and more

>>6220861
He meant X-20, which is enamel thinner

>>6220881
Rubbing alcohol can get most of it off

>>6220861

sorry i meant x20, as for the 70/30 mix yeah i know what i'm doing. I painted those spoons. >>6220622

>>6220855
>Hot DAMN those are some shiny spoons you got there, anon. What's your secret?

shitty auto primer, then >>6220617

then alclad or kosutte ginsan or MGM powder.

>>6220943
Alright, sounds good, thanks for the help. And thanks to everyone else too.

>>6220887
>>6220897
what a shitty gundam

>>6220943

i'm doing a D-style bloody death saurer that was supposed to for the group build but its taken way too long. its close to done so i'll be showing it soon.

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A friend bought me my first plamo last night. Since putting it together, I've been obsessively looking for more. Didn't think this would become a hobby of mine, but I'm not mad.

>>6221020
Welcome to plastic crack. You're here forever.

>>6221020

be prepared to suck dick for plastic crack.

I wasn't at first, but it gets more bearable the more you do it.

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>>6220605
>Have been out of "the plastic game" for 15 years
>Play Gundam Breaker 3 since it looks pretty cool and I love me some gundam
>HOLY SHIT ALL THE WARRIORS
>HOLY SHIT ALL THE CUSTOMIZATION
>Oh shit, these are from the new show that I started watching not too long ago...
>Oh hey, these parts from my old favorit suits pair really well with my new favorite suit...
>Maybe just one kit to see if I still like this shit...
>20 kits and about $300 later
Well fuck...

>>6220605
>>6221020
Friend gave me Gunpla
I build amazing robot
Oops, I slip on slope

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>>6221020
There is no escape from this....

NO.ESCAPE

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Remember that abortion of a con that was G-con UK last year, well they're doing it all again..
Lets hope for even more connect 4 this time.

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I been building scale models for a while now, mostly posting them on the /ak/ or /thg/ threads, had no idea /toy/ had threads dedicated to it.
I am very glad of it.

when is it justified to use premade spray cans over using an airbrush? i have a single action one but im too lazy to mix paint and set it all up.

>>6221334
I use those for primer and gloss/matt varnish.
You may use those for base coat, but you will be forced to buy a new one basically for every kit, so it becomes impractical on the long run, also I doubt you could pull a pre-shade with those.

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>>6221310

>>6220756
>Strange, I swear the first gunpla pic of it was only 2 weeks ago and now it's out already.
>I thought it's gonna be released late March or early April.
>Has this ever happened before?

I wonder W H Y bandai would NOT have rvealed the name and Design of the villain suit that was JUST revVealed in tHe anIMe

I WoNDEr WhY?

I'm on genteit kits, can someone explain to me the difference between SAL Surface and SAL SP?

>>6220897
>I have to admit this design is growing on me. I actually do like the head and upper torso design, with the shield-wings.
Indeed, their sheer ambulatory nature makes them a great addition, and all the SYMMETRY of the suit and it's armaments is now making me want Kimaris Vidar more than regular Vidar.

Only real issue I have with it now is that he only has the right spear-thrusting hand, meaning he can only give Terminator Thumbs-up with his right arm!

i have been looking for the line art of eb-04 geirail, i would like to paint it and would like to try some colors scheme and see how they would look like.

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>>6221490
never mind, i got a image from google and just desaturated

>>6220687
Similar story here.
>been collecting comics for a while.
>start collecting figures when I got a not shit job.
>see 4chan has toy thread
>see gunpla
>holy shit that's cool
>go to Barnes and noble
>THEY HAVE GUNPLA
>buy one
Now I'm addicted. Firsts kit was a shitty high grade that I did terrible on. It's atrocious. Now I'm okay though, bought my first master grade after trying out some figurise standard and sprukits stuff.

>>6221311
Toy actually has TWO of them, this one focuses mainly on gundams and mechs, while the other one focuses on more traditional models (planes, ships, AFV, etc.).

>>6218132
Reportinf LIVE from Gundam front Toyko! Come for the life size RX-78, the special edition kits, but do the lion's share of your gunpka shopping in Akihabara because the prices here are a tad high and the basic selection of kits is kind of meh..

>>6221928
>Toy actually has TWO of them, this one is for people who build plastic models and the other one is for autistic people.
FTFY

>Spray painting the yellow on the HGUC crossbone's binders
>Use Tamiya yellow
>Put everything together
>The yellow is too bright compare to the plastic yellow part on the rest of the body
>Should use Tamiya Caramel Yellow instead

Fuck me
I don't want to redo the spray again

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>2nd time panel washing with enamel thinner ruined a kit.
Last kit was bare plastic so I it wasn't as devastating but this time I painted before and even sprayed 2 coats of Future. And before using enamel thinner, I was using lighter fluid but it was annoying to work with so I decided to use thinner. Maybe I should just use Tamiya's panel wash?

>>6222183
was it testors emamel thinner?

>Maybe I should just use Tamiya's panel wash?
what do you think tamiya panel wash is?

>>6222194
IT was Tamiya's enamel thinner.
>what do you think tamiya panel wash is?
I know its enamel thinner too. The problem might be me using to much thinner when making my own mix. I don't know. I'm doubting myself since I haven't improved on any area in painting.

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>>6222194
There are two better options for you. I don't touch enamels anymore with Gunpla.
First option, grab some Pitt pens. There cheap, water based and come in black, brown, grey. You can wipe them away and they don't bother the kit at all.
Second option, go to oil paint. Abteilung 502 starship filth it's what I upgraded to. Love the color and same deal, just wipe it away with no damage. Mig even makes an oilbrusher series with it as one of the colors so it's premixed and has a super thin brush.

>>6222183
Also on this subject what do the people here usually do for panel lining?

>>6222419
Tamiya enamel wash with lighter fluid

>>6222431
Do you ever have trouble with brittle plastic when using the wash? Teach me your ways anon.

>>6218132
Needs longer shins, maybe some extenders from the ankle to the foot

>>6222433
No, because I did it on painted + topcoated gunpla

>>6222433
The bare plastics disintegrates when you apply the enamel wash while it's under stress (e.g. assembled). If you don't plan on painting, apply the wash before putting the kit together.

>>6222463
Are you talking about sub assemblies(arms,legs) or cut-from-sprue disassembled? I think it happened to me because the wash seeped into gaps i wasn't supposed to.

>>6222495
The latter. I actually apply the enamel wash while the parts are still in the runner.

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>HG Dantalion SOON

>>6222550
I'm real into the Dantalion's design. I never realized how weird big, bulky armour with lots of thin exposed bits under it looked until Dantalion kept its design lithe.

>>6222550
Think it'll come with the giant arms? I really want them. Plenty of interesting accessory options no matter which way they go.

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Only the shoulders and weapons left. The. I get to start applying decals and wait till the metal parts come in for the final bit.

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I just finished my Ground GM. I wanted to make it look like those 08th MS Team promotional images where the mobile suits look all beat up and dented.

>>6222568
Would a green hi nu look nice?

>>6222580
Depends I guess. You'd need a light green for the primary or a dark rich green for the secondary color which ever way you'd go with it, but I think it could work.

>>6222579
Looks pretty good to me Anon

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>>6222586
Well, I wanna make a nuclear crow custom, but I don't want it to end up looking like a 7-11 collab

>>6222579
thats bare plastic with weathering right?
coulda removed those ugly wep seamlines anon.

>>6222602
it's painted, senpai.

Anybody who has the HG 007S/G can confirm if it's possible to mount the GN Sword II Blaster to the RG 007S?

>>6222579
The head looks cleaner compared to everything else.
Might want to fix on that.

>>6222624
You're right! The things you miss when you're doing a wash.

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Man, the Guncannon is a pretty fun build so far. Pretty glad it's bringing me back into building.

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>>6221928
Yeah I just realized that, thanks.
I just pre-ordered pic related, and given it's my first non-IFV build, I was looking for tips and advices on it.
I am reading the guide btw.

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The shoulders are finally painted. Just a couple parts left then decal work.

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>>6222992
Looking pretty good, what did you use for the blue?

Is it ok to buy Gunpla from Aliexpress? It is the best option for me since it is really cheap. I am watching Gundam Seed and i am obsessed with Aile Striker/Freedom. NEVER touched a gunpla before, but i have some experience with model kits.

>>6223010
Not really, buying from China is just asking for bootlegs.

>>6222831
I doubt there's much specific to FAGs that wouldn't port over just fine from traditional models. You'll really want to weld the seams on the fleshy bits but that's about it.

going to buy 1/100 barbados 6th
yay or nay?

>>6223047
whey

>>6223057
?

>>6223061
jay

>>6223070
Kay

>>6223081
sadly there are no other rhyming words. i checked

>>6222606
It needs al little modding:
>>http://www.gundamkitscollection.com/2015/05/tutorial-rg-1144-00-gundam-seven-swordg.html?m=1

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Hi guys, I bought a plamo of a gundam double x, I got it from amiami's pre owned section. As far I know this series is pretty old, and the model kit came out on 1996. The box says it was made on 1996, but I'm not sure if the plamo is really old or if it's a reissue. Can you help me?

>>6223204
The reissues still use the same mold, so you're still gonna have to paint it to make it look decent regardless of when it was printed.

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>>6223204
This is the date on the box. When bandai reissues a plamo, does the box include the rerelease date or just the date of the initial release?

>>6223209
How can I be sure if the model is a first release or a reissue?

>>6223004
Lavender, blue, and a bit of red.

>>6223212
Initial release date.

Unless it is a renewal package.

Renewal packaged ones have new dates and possible revised prices.

>>6223114
Bae.

>>6222579

Oh no! Somebody chewed on your kit, bro.

I'm building an MG strike freedom and heard the gold inner frame looks much better painted

I've got a gold marker coming in two weeks but wouldn't it be better to use a spraycan?
should I be priming for either marker or spraycan?

Should I really be bothering that much for the inner frame if I'm not painting the outside, maybe I should paint the whole thing instead

>>6223428
Dont use marker for large areas, the quickest way to make it look good would be to get a couple of tamiya gold or platinum gold for the frame. You can always topcoat the outer non-painted parts so that the whole kit looks consistent and doesnt have that factory sheen.

>>6223447
I don't think I can ship spraycans so I'll have to use whathever brand my local hobbyshop sells.
Maybe I should just panel line and topcoat this kit and buy an airbrush for later

>>6223428
IIRC gundam marker and paint in general kills ABS plastic unless you prime first.

>>6223484
ABS = Polycaps?

>>6223045
I see, thanks.
How about the paint and articulated parts? Does it wear off?
How do you paint skin?

>>6223538
polycaps are PE (polyethylene)
Inner frame parts are usually ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)
>>6223484
Aren't gundam markers a mix of acrylic and alcohol?
All I can find is that acrylics don't stick well to abs unless primed, nothing about damaging it

Should i just ditch the Future and use lacquer gloss spray cans? I dont want to wait a week for a glosscoat to fully chemically dry.

>>6223212
Youre a fucking idiot

Apologies if this has been answered in the guide, but can I always use the sandpaper with the finest grit (the larger grit values) in all cases?
For example, can I use an ultrafine grit, which is usually used for finishing touch ups I believe, for the whole process of sanding the nubs off? Usually, it is a transition of a fine grit to the finest grit when sanding a nub right? I would assume it will take a longer time, is that all?
Trying to save as much cost in building my model here.

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>>6219014
>mfw back in the day when I was young, I panel-lined my gundams with FUCKING WHITEBOARD MARKERS
>mfw back in the day when I was young, I used FUCKING SPARKLING GLOSSY PENS to detail my gundams
>mfw back in the day when I was young,I used FUCKING SCISSORS to remove the pieces from the runners
It hurts to remember. These kits were sealed in my storeroom forever, never to see the light of day again.

>>6223720
You're not saving any money by only using super fine grit sandpaper. You'll both waste more sandpaper and your time.

>>6223720
Sandpaper costs cents per sheet, if you cant even afford varying grits of sandpaper, I think you should drop this hobby until you get more money

>trying to sand down a nub with 1500
Just no.

The worst thing about a gloss black coat is that no matter how long it sits there it still looks wet.

>>6223745
Isnt it
>anything and everything will mar the perfect and shiny finish
and
>the longer you stare the more imperfections you notice

>>6223762
I've already resigned myself to the fact that every model I ever make is going to have a stray piece of dust or tiny hair somewhere.

>>6223762
>Oh a stray dust
>Oh this part isn't glossy
>Oh this part scratched
>Oh I threw the piece into the trash

Gloss black and gloss paint jobs are depressing.

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>tfw no gourai army

>>6222831
make sure to also check out Busou SHinki and Friends thread over here.
>>6216227
you are more likely to get info on stuff like making and casting molds of parts (face plates in particular) over there then over here. so browsing both threads can help a lot.

>>6223882
Just rename yourselves kotobukiya and friends general already

>>6223846
I really want the pony-tail hair but I hate the jinrai body. They need to sell hair packs separately.

>>6223892
Find someone who has a jinrai/indigo jinrai who is willing to sell you the extra hair parts

>>6223547
The only prepainted parts are the crotchpiece, neck scrunchie, and maybe the boobs for innocentia, who knows

Just take note that parts fit can be very, very tight, so cut pegs if you want to disassemble later on. Some pieces are also really fragile, like that retarded neck balljoint. And If you're welding, take note that some parts are ABS, so make sure your cement can weld those.

A lot of plastic on plastic joints, so expect them to loosen if you fiddle with them often

>>6223883
that would include real frame arms and zoids which does not fight the theme. 'robot girls general' is possible but still includes things that we have in the past not wanted included in the thread. It is possible it will change as we get more new folk who can not really afford shinki collecting as those costs continue to rise so only girls they have are FAGs and MDs.

>>6223547
depends on the paint you use, joints will over time always wear away even the most durable paint and top coat jobs if the joints are moved a lot. If you like the flesh tone she already has, just top coat her flesh parts, no need to paint. So that helps solve the issue of rubbing paint for a lot of the joints since it will be a lot less noticeable when small areas of topcoat rub off vs paint.

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>tfw you replace your knife blade with a fresh one and slice through every nub like butter
>tfw seconds later you tilt your blade a little too much and end up slicing deep into your piece

>>6223948
Just call it weathering and you'll be fine anon.

>>6223953
I just tell myself it's fine and can be easily fixed with putty

But seriously removing nubs with a fresh blade is orgasmic

>>6222606

nope but it reminds me i need to get on with my 00 build (seven sword, 0 raiser , 2 gn sefers & 2 xn raisers)

>finally decide to buy an expensive kit since I've only ever bought HG/cheap MG
>want to get a MG Sazabi ver Ka
>that fucking shipping price
I know the box is huge and all but that's literally twice the price, fug.

>>6223902
>>6223932
Noted, thanks.
>Top coat her flesh parts without painting
That is brilliant, thanks.

>>6223732

I used to just twist the old 90s kits. I was only about 12 at the time, but it's still pretty stupid.

I remember reading that there were ~10 days until the next expo a while ago, but I can't remember how many days ago it was. So, how many days left and which event is it?

>>6224146
8th of current month in Hakodate JP

>>6224085
yeah as someone who does scale models it probably never occurred to you while it is something we take for granted as common knowledge around here. The full potential of everything a flat coat can do really becomes apparent with colored snap kits. I have several kits where I painted some portions because the plastic color is really off(Looking at you MG Kampfer!) but left the rest bare. Several layers of Flat/Matte later and the entire kit looks like it was painted, impossible to tell which was and was not. It is also great for being lazy and not properly buffing out your sanded spots. long as the area was sanded down with fine grit, a few layer of flat coat will make it vanish. it can help disguise some stickers if they are trimed well, you will still get a noticbly raised area but the sticker edges will blend in more.

>>6224146
>>6224168
expo? Bandai's expo? I can never keep track of whenever bandai is doing something.

>>6224194
I will differently do that, thank!
What matte cote do you use? I airbrush Humbrol Mattcote to my models, it is really good leaving absolutely zero shine but it does have a rather "sandy" finish to the touch.

>>6224332
Go full weeaboo, the nips have excellent modelling supplies. I use Mr super clear myself, but gaia or Mr hobby stuff works great too

>>6224345
All on cans? Or for airbrush?
I'll see if I can get them from AmiAmi.

>>6224353
I use cans for now since I have leftovers from my scrublord days, they can be decanted and sprayed too.

Pretty much every major paint manufacturer has their own airbrushable topcoat, but I'm partial to gaia myself. There should be a lot of reviews online, just pick your favourite brand and go with it

>>6224362
Alright, will do. Thanks a lot.

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How would I paint the clear visor on the tallgeese, just slap some clear blue and be done with it?

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This is turning out better than the Grimgerde, which isn't saying much.

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and here is the MG Sinanju Titanium version complete

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>>6224498
really nice kit, solid and the red metallic finish is gorgeous

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>>6220605
You guys were right. Plastic crack.
Wish me luck.

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>>6224503
next thing on my list is the MG Providence, can't wait to see that one in person

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Working on the weapons now. Almost done. Gonna start on the decals tonight.

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>>6224127
>>6223732
>twisting off the runner

Just gave my brother a pair of nippers and the Wing Fenice for his birthday. If I have to be hooked on Plasticrack, I'm taking others down with me.

>>6224634
Decals started damn they are super thick. Like at least twice so of other decals ive worked with.

>>6224704
My fellow of enriched melanin content.

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>>6224709
Would be helpful if I posted the photo along with my post...

>>6224377
clear blue, or dip it in a mixture of future+blue food colouring

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>>6224687
mfw

>>6224687
BRU DESTNH!

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Shiki 2.0 is nice, but did that metallic topcoat shit. At least the gold is matched by the gundam markers, so easy to patch, but fuck Bandai

>>6224924
I've been wanting to pick one up but have been holding off since I can't find one for a reasonable price. I've seen pictures of the kit with a matte finish and it looked awesome. Way better than I thought it would. I would've thought the Shiki would like best glossy but I may have to give mine a flat top coat when I eventually get mine.

>>6224924
>stickers
Oh god please yell me you're just being a lazy fucker for waterslides and that it comes with both.

>>6224981
Nope. 2.0 only comes with sticker decals and dry transfers

>>6225004
>dry transfers
That's fine. I cannot stand stickers on gunpla. It just deteriorates the look it so much.

>>6225007
Eh, it's fine on white figures like Wing Gundam, but anything with color, yea, too easy to see the outline

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>>6225043
Cut the excess off for thrice the work and headaches

>>6225055
Waterslides are 100% easier.

>>6225058
Water slides and dry transfers are always easier, but not all kits come with water slides or even have orderable ones available

>>6224924
>>6224972
>Matt finish over a metallic color.
First time I heard of it, sounds brilliant, fuck, now I want to try it.

>>6225077
Yep, shit sucks. Though between ebay, Taobao, and SamuelDecal if i need something I can find it.

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Gold gundam marker matches the Shiki's pretty well. Hard to tell from far away

>>6218953
thanks anon for linking this, appreciate it.

>>6225156
no problem at all.

>>6225136
Jesus, what the fuck happened here?

Did you scrape off a giant chunk of the plated plastic? Why so much marker paint?

what's a decent going price on PGs?

i see the strike on amazon for $155 with prime shipping and i'm tempted

>>6225275
Yes. Accidents occurred
>>6225304
$155 is decent if shipping is free. Mine was $170 on prime a year ago

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Why do i keep buying FAGs... I don't even build them...

>>6225323
it's okay if you like fags

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>>6225323
I want that box art so bad

By the way, chapter 3 of the manga is out, it's super cute
http://bato.to/reader#8a6f4e98ec032338

Want to get into scribing panel lines. Which scriber should I buy as a total beginner?

>>6225410
tamiya or olfa

>>6225410
Madworks

>>6225323
Build that bunny. She deserves it.

>>6225413
>>6225415
What size should I start with?

>>6225437
Well if all you want is a panel line a simple hooked scriber will do it, but it can only cut V shaped grooves in a straight line. Also cant scribe wide panel lines since it'll be way too deep

Those fancy square channels you see must be done with chisels of the appropriate width.

>>6225055
still looks like shit, just a different kind of shit.

>>6225055
Would this method be impractical ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZIWqzRMQqo&t=14s

>MG ZZ
could that...possibly mean...MG tryon 3?

>>6225465
god damn how many coats of clear was that. looks amazing but so much effort

>>6225338
Stylet is really cute in the manga. I haven't got her because I'm not a huge fan of her design but I think I'll have to get her now. Successful marketing by Koto.

>>6224377

I used blue sharpie. Looks good.

>>6225465
damn, it looks like it layers the coats so that it would be the exact thickness of the decal

>>6218132
>>>/m/

>>6225546
i don't understand this post

what do you do with kits you flat out don't want anymore?

trash?

>>6225581
Send them to me.

>>6225581
Sell them.
That's what I'm going to do soon.

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If you could only get 2 out of these 3, which one would you go with?
I'll still get the other one in the future, along with Lupus and Bael.

>>6225611
Vidar and Shovel Knight for sure.

>>6225323
what are those other two kits?

>>6225465
that looks extremely time consuming even compared to precisely cutting out every single sticker yourself. Depending on the kit, the sanding of every stickered area will get very annoying, RGs especially. However imagine the bragging points for if you just snap build a kit with no paint and just the stickers it came with and present a crazy masterpeice like this?

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>>6225621
Those are the Astray Mirage Frame and Mirage 2nd Issue.
And boy if you think the standard Astrays are ugly..

>>6225635
That recolored astray is indeed an eyesore, and I normaly am fine with astrays.

But the redesigned astray? I am a sucker for that crazy bug head and clawsit has. It is the right kind of abomination to me.

I just broke the antenas on my gusion rebake 1/100 T_T, easy to fix but utism wont let me live knowing the scare is there.
Worst part is i know many people may have spare parts for that since most people build fat gusion but nobody build gunpla where i live.

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>>6221252
>>6221143
>>6221128
Holy shit you guys were right. I'm back with another.

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>>6225932

>most people build fat gusion

pic related makes me never want to build that damn frog

>>6225979
I'm not sure why my pictures get uploaded like this though. Damn iPhones.

>>6225979
those are some disturbing nub marks anon.

>>6225982
4chan removes image metadata. Save out your image again after rotating it and it should work.

>>6225979
>those disgusting nubs
>>6225981
>letting fucking memes stop you from doing anything
sad

>>6225559
/m/ also has a gunpla/plamo general, but I don't see why both boards can't have one, since it suits both boards and isn't off-topic for either.

>>6225987
How do I eliminate that? I'm still new to the hobby and I'm using wire cutters to cut the pieces from the frame, then just twisting the nubs off. As well as fumbling awkwardly with the stickers. I've seen some people say they score it with a razor blade but I imagine there's a better way.

>>6226005
Read the guide.

Gonna build the RG Sinanju (may my sanity rest in peace), and since it comes with a glossy red I think I'll keep that look for the red, but what about the other colours?

Gloss gray looks horrible, so matte on that one for sure. Flat or gloss for the black and white?

>>6225981
I build it too, using barbatos frame, is a realy easy kitbash. And the extra parts go all to the barbatos 6 form so i have a full barbatos with all the swapeable armor.

>>6226005
Get a proper set of nippers, an x-acto knife, and some sand paper.

Basically read the guide.

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How can something so small be source of so many headaches

>>6226371
The eyes are misaligned, the yellow is transparent and the paint is thick
I can't catch a break

>>6225611
Reincar and hyakuren. Vidar is disgusting