Scale Model General

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Made a new lightbox a few days ago, actually made it to take photographs of minerals (which I sell), but wanted to test it out on a few models as well.

>>6197595
Amazing as always.

What camera do you use?

>>6197762
Nikon D3300, it's an entry level DSLR, but it's still a pretty decent camera.

>>6197785
>Nikon D3300
Lens?

>>6197820
Standard 18-55mm, though I use a 60mm for some up close detail shots.

>>6197595
Nice. Howd you make the lightbox?

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>>6197915
I based it on one I built previously, which was itself based on something I saw on Youtube a while back. It costs <$12.00 in supplies, it's 3 thick poster boards I got from target, as well as a thin black and white poster board which I cut to length for the background. I'm going to go buy a few more different colors at an art supply store tomorrow to experiment with different color backdrops too.

Basically, I cut out from the poster boards five 12x12 inch pieces, and in three of them cut another square out 1" from each side. I stretch out a piece of very fragile tissue paper, used as packing material, and then used a glue stick on the white side of each open square, placed it on the tissue paper and cut away the excess. Then pieced the box together, though the top and bottom pieces needed to be trimmed a little further to fit inside properly. The lighting setup is three Philips 1500 lumen LED daylight bulbs mounted on three cheap clamp lights I got off amazon.

The only con is the tissue paper is really fragile, so I need to be extra careful with the box so that they don't rip and tear, especially when changing the backdrops.

I wish I could brush paint worth a damn. These days if I dont airbrush every piece it looks like shit

>>6197595
>>6198000
That looks damn good. Both the plane and the lightbox too.
What camera do you use though? Just your smartphone cam or something bigger/better?

Do you alter the pics with photoshop?

>>6199589
see
>>6197785
>>6197852
I don't alter the image too much, just tone down the exposure and the clarity using the windows 10 photo app.

What color wash can I use on black paint to get some kind of contrast?

>>6199634
you know you shouldn't paint black as black, you should always paint off black. nato black is a good example. there's even rubber black

>>6197852
whenever I try photograph something close, when I get too close it blurs.
I think maybe I need a macro lenses. but they expensive.

>>6199680
Try shooting in manual, increase your aperture settings and decrease shutter speed. I shot that image with an aperture of f/25 and a shutter speed of 1 second I think, might have been a little lower than that. I have ISO sensitivity pretty low too since I'm using a lightbox. If the image is a little overexposed it's not a big deal as you can correct it easily, or alternatively just increase shutter speed to compensate.

>>6197555
>Same fag in the OP as last time
Not saying his work's bad, but can we get some variety?

>>6199815
If people took better pics sure.
only other decent pic was 600px

>>6199815
It's not the same anon who did >>6168271

>>6199699
oh okay thanks for the info.
now its only a case of having something worth shooting

>>6199844
Yea it is

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>>6199862
I'll jump into this conversation and say no, it's not. I'm quite certain of this on account of being the one who made the stuff in the current OP. What I meant by contrast early on in the previous thread was that there would be, amongst other things, a contrast in skill level, because I sure can't make anything like that T-90.

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Will my pictures finally post correctly? Find out in this episode of "I'm slowly ripping my hair out"!
Also finished painting the Sheffield, gonna get it on a base now and see how that gel I got works

>>6199953
Are you upside-down anon? If so, mission accomplished, it's the right way up!

[spoiler]now fix your fucking camera focus[/spoiler]

>>6199852
I should also mention it really helps to have a steady tripod to take pictures with, even if you're using a cell phone camera. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-72-inch-Carrying-Additional-Camcorders/dp/B003LTB8GM/

I also have a remote for my camera that allows me to take pictures without pressing the button on the camera itself, it's essential if you're taking long exposure images as any vibration in the camera will make the image blurry.

>>6199953
That painting looks a little bogus desu

>>6200020
That's me! It's always one problem after another
>>6200146
I know, this was my first time working on a 1/700 scale ship, and I very stupidly decided to paint after total assembly. Luckily I planned for this, so I got a cheapie (1/700 dragon Sheffield ultra premium deluxe edition or whatever), that way I wouldn't be entirely crucified!

I'm trying to find an F-15C probably in 1/72 scale for my dad and brother to build together. How critical is painting for a model of that size? I don't want to give them too huge of a project.

>>6200288
Like any model it can be painted as simply as the user wants

>>6200313
Ok I was just worried it would just be like white plastic or something ugly. I really don't know much about models but thought this would be a cool way to connect with them (I'm stationed in Japan working on f-15s)

Is anyone in IPMS? Are there like meetings and stuff? Thinking about going to my local chapter but not really sure what to expect

>>6200337
Thats actually a really nice idea

Does anybody here have any experience with Modelcollect? I bought their 1/72 E-50 on impulse and it seems quite nice so far. The Kit wasn't too expensive, the parts fit well and it even came with PE-parts and a metal barrel.

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i wish hase's ancient YF-16/CCV canopy actually fit lol

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>>6200446

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>>6200449
i also almost lost both of these to a gust, probably not a good idea to photograph models outside in 15mph winds but the sky was so perfect

Craigslist has a 1/72 flower class corvette for sale near me. Wish I had the space

Hihi /smg/

Can AMMO paint be applied with a brush without thinning? and will they give good coverage?

They're cheaper than Tamiya XFs at my local hobby shop and I need them for detailing interiors.

>>6197595
oddly enough I've been reading JG26.

>>6200855
I use ammo paints as my main workhorse with an airbrush. I really like them and I could shill them more but desu I don't feel comfortable using them with a brush as I had mixed results, the thing is that they have different finishes (matt, satin) based on the real color and they end okayish applied with a brush. It might be the colors I used or how I used them but between Vallejo and ammo for brush I pick Vallejo. Other brands it would depend on the color as they work equally or worse than ammo. Also for the record I painted all my old models by brush and cans from tamiya without thinner or fancy shit but a lot of people can't so it depends

>>6201481
Aren't Ammo paints just relabelled vallejo?

>>6201525
Afaik they aren't. If vallejo is relabelled their brand is easily seen, for example nocturna paints are made by vallejo, but in the box and labels you can see "Acrylicos Vallejo" easily

>>6201673
Huh, I'll have to look more deeply into them, then. I've avoided them in the past due to having vallejo paints peel.

>>6201683
How did they peel?

>>6201688
Specifically, peeling over chipping fluids. No matter what I try, Vallejo always just peels.

>>6201710
That's really weird but I haven't used them with chipping fluids so I can't say. The ammo ones I assure you they work flawlessly with chipping fluid (I used ammo chipping fluid) with a lot of layers so if you have problems then you should start looking elsewhere rather than the paints. You need to let the chipping fluid be dry to the touch, paint and then wait for the paint to be dry to the touch (15 min or so where I live) before going in with the water and brush. Also be gentle scrapping

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I fear I might have a case of AMS coming on.

Since the Mk 6 seats supplied with the Kinetic Mirage IIIE kit were quite low detail, I purchased a Martin Baker Mk 4 to replace it (my sources stated that Mirage IIIOs in Australian service used the Mk 4). Once I painted the seat up I realised that the kit decals (which I would quite like to use) are for an 80s scheme, which I have now found out came after a refit to the Mirage IIIO fleet which included.... Fitting Mk 6 seats! As such, the evening has been spent scratch building a ton of detail onto the pathetic Mk 6 offering in the hopes of making something worth recasting a few of for future builds. Next comes my least favourite stage of doing a seat - buckles. After that I will either cast as is before answering the pull tab question on each cast, or try to make castable pull handles (unlikely with my lack of vacuum chamber for the casting).

Thoughts on the painted Mk 4 and the work on the Mk 6 appreciated, good to see anons getting their modeling done.

>>6201760
A bit more involved than my cockpit issues.

I simply managed to order the wrong scale.

>>6201765
A-at least you have the part you want when you model that aircraft in another scale, right anon? I mean, at least you bought a common part like a Martin Baker Mk x seat, or a resin HUD or something?

Good luck with your issues. [spoiler]My real bugbear is a Ta-183 1/72 kit that is sitting half finished in my stash, scratch built cockpit that has been restarted multiple times, undercarriage bays gouged out for scratchbuilding and no more done on it[/spoiler] If I make this seat somewhat decent I think I will cast it in some Pinkysil, resin cast multiples, hold onto some for future builds (a Mk 4 is a pretty common seat in 70s jets) and sell some at the local model club (not gouging with prices, probably just enough to cover the costs of the casting sessions).

>>6201774
>at least you bought a common part like a Martin Baker Mk x seat, or a resin HUD or something?

J35 Draken cockpit (the bit above about just getting some Sidewinders, yeah, that didn't survive shopping time). Dunno how much of that was off the shelf parts. I guess I have some homework to do. Though if I ever do slide over from 1/72 to 1/48 I guess Draken would be pretty high on the list.

Then again, Draken apparently had a yoga pants tight cockpit, and as such I've seen it suggested to use it in 1/48 as the basis for a cockpit in a 1/72 vacuform paper plane kit I've been eyeing. Might go down that way some day.

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found some tankettes and WW2 cars i planned to assemble couple of years ago, today i finished these two, sorry for potato quality.
i messed up the cannons somehow.

just wanted contribute something to the thread.

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Progress is very slow. Over a month into this build with no end in sight

>>6202341
the more that you put on that thing the better it looks. Also, considering how much you paid for it, patience is key. Great work so far.

>>6202361
Thanks dude. Still have some rigging to do, A fuck load of cargo, a number of wings, and a whole cabin to detail

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>>6199815
Not saying you're autistic, but you're autistic.

Bump you goofballs

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Update on the Sheffield for bumping purposes. I didn't wanna share this until I actually finished the base but here's what I've got so far. I laid down the acrylic medium and mixed in some turquoise with white on a dark blue base. I'm still in the process of blending so excuse it if it looks shitty

>>6204123
Also if anyone has a messier workspace than me I will congratulate you

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Not much to say, it's all finished and I'm just waiting for the friuls and motor PE to arrive god know she when to my lhs. Pretty chill build overall
>>6204126
I don't think I will win

>>6204150
>friuls
get a load of the rich kid
:(

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>>6204123
I think Im close

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>>6204123
>>6204123

In terms of a base I normally lay down a black layer, then various blues. After that I shape the waves with the gel without any dye

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>>6204199
...But no cigar

>>6204387
Heyyy it fucked itself again!

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Just finishing up my first scratch-build project, it's the first in a set of Army Transportation Corps flat cars in 1:32. I'm especially satisfied with how the wooden deck on top turned out.

>>6204161
get a fucking job you poorfag. I'm literally earning minimum wage and I can still afford a girlfriend and hundreds of dollars of small tanks a month.

>>6204465
God damn that is good shit anon. How come you went with 1/32 instead of 1/35, which is what I'm assuming those tanks are?

>>6204613
It's for a Gauge 1 railway my dad and I have in our backyard. The engine and rolling stock I have is 1:29, the Chafee is 1:32 and the Patton on the back is 1:35, but without any human figures for reference it's such a small difference I can't imagine anyone's gonna notice.

>>6204642
ahh, i see. Glad it's getting some use on a railroad though

>>6204387
Ayy, someone else is building a Whippet. What kit is that?

Just wanted to share it, there's a kit to recreate that one scene from Full Metal Jacket in 1/35 scale
http://hlj.com/product/MSB35185/Mil

>>6204533
The area I live in is rife with unemployment right now. I actually just got offered a job, and I've accepted, but something's happened which might make me lose it before I even start. Words can't describe my feelings right now, even my tiny tanks can't alleviate it. Sometimes I don't even know why I bother trying.

>>6205040
That's the 1/35 Meng Whippet

>>6205138
Hang in there boi. I had to apply to 20 different places before I got my first job. Trust me, just keep going and it'll happen

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Update on the accursed Trumpeter 1/35 Hotchkiss 35/38 turret.

Upper Left of Pic: You can see the hole where the rear hatch's hinge well is. If you're familiar with CAD or 3D modeling, what appears to have happened was the person designing it made a boolian operation to cut the hinge well but didn't fill the resulting hole that comes from not having enough thickness in the wall around the area being cut.
Other problems with the hinges themselves might be the result of the mold or molding process. I forgot to remove the mold line on the ends of the hinge pins and will reduce the unevenness with some glue or putty..

Top Right: Redid the gun mantlet to bring it forward a small bit. The hinge pin was actually screwing with the appearance of the mantlet but that wasn't really why I moved it forward. It just looked a little bit long. I also cut a hole for the MG port and added a little bit of stretched sprue to form the 38mm gun's armored scope face which was missing. I still need to add some texture to the mantlet, do some shaping to the scope armor, and drill out the hole for the scope. Shiny stuff is Loctite GO2 Glue. It seems to stick pretty well and dries fairly quick, but has kind of a rubbery texture almost like silicon caulk. Maybe just a little stiffer.

Bottom 2: I ended up shaving a little more material off of the turret. The turret ring in RL references is actually exposed a little bit like that in the spots with the arrows. I used the Loctite GO2 to build up some curvature where the ring meets the rest of turret above it. I think it should be enough to go the rest of the way with a textured layer. That will be with Squadron putty thinned down with Model Master Thinner for Metalizer or acetone.

I've heard that GW's Green Stuff Filler might be pretty decent for texturing and the draw there is more that it might be water wash up. Acetone and the Metalizer Thinner both are a bit heavy on fumes. I'm just reluctant to give GW my money.

>>6205318
Oh right, the front of the turret was painted so I could check for errors and such to correct.

If anyone has any alternatives for cast metal finish that isn't full of fumes, I'd really be interested in hearing them. I think maybe using some chalk mixed into acrylic might work. Or possibly gesso -though I think gesso might need to dry a little or have some powder added to thicken it a little.

>>6205318
>might be water wash up
I don't recall it being water wash up.
its good hard stuff tho.
water wash up tends to be a bit more delicate almost plaster like.
Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. is a good example of water wash up.
very fragile.

>>6205328
Oh it's not water wash up? What does GW suggest to thin and clean it with?

>>6205337
im pretty sure google can answer these questions. my memory aint what it used to be.
I just recall using cellulose thinners.

>>6205370
Hrm. Web search says the liquid green stuff can be thinned with water. I got it from two different sources. That's not to say that water is the only option, mind.

I'll try acrylic with some ground pastel first since I have those on hand. I've seen art stores sell acrylic gel mediums with crap added for texture, so that's something to consider, maybe.

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>>6205328
>>6205337
I think there may be some confusion here between their regular green stuff (repackaged Kneadatite), a two part epoxy, and their "liquid green stuff" which I think is acrylic based.

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>>6205409
Seems so

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>>6205318 (You)
>>6205382 (You)
I was sitting around, so I thought I'd go ahead and try the acrylic and pastel chalk combo, applying it to the underside of the turret first, since it couldn't be seen. I also used a color I wouldn't really need since I bought the pastels cheap as a set off of eBay.
I started by using an emery board but switched to scraping with a hobby knife since the emery board got clogged pretty fast and it would be a waste of a board. The resulting texture looks pretty decent but I won't be able to spray until the air outside warms up a little bit.

Not sure if it could be seen in this pic.

I forgot to mention to watch out for big chunks sliced off from scraping. It probably could be controlled better by watching how the blade is used to scrape.

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>>6205409
you are right, i am retardation. I was thinking of squadron green, often referred to as green stuff. I shouldn't reply to things, ever.

>>6205675
I actually do mention Squadron putty in my first post and how I use Model Master Thinner for Metalizer or Acetone to thin the stuff..

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>>6205564
Pretty windy outside. I used a can of Testors SAC Grey and gave it a quick once over. Texture is a little too grainy in spots IMHO. Of more concern is that the pastel might be a little too soft and rough handling might cause the chunks to break and expose its color (in this case, purple.) I might be able to mitigate both problems a little with an extra coat of paint or two.

The faint dark ring at the top is from me testing the fit/rotation of the cupola. In previous posts, some might have noticed a dark smudge around there on bare plastic. I use graphite from a pencil as a dry lubricant for moving parts.

Man. Yellow is just not spraying well for me these days. Seems like I can only get it too thick or too thin

>>6206118
Aren't yellows not as good anymore because a lot of model companies stopped using Cadmium yellow as a pigment or something?

>Applying a laquer topcoat
>orange peels

I'm not even sure what went wrong aside using laquer, which had worked so far pretty well. No humidity, sprayed at the right distance.
Oh well, time to sand and polish for a while.

>>6206180
What about temperature and/or atomization?

>>6206158
A quick google search suggests that they ended not banning it or the ban was short lived. Yellow always one of those poor coating colors though.
>>6206118
Did you paint to a white primer? Also, if you put it on too thin, you can at least layer it. Just work slowly or maybe apply to some cardboard scrap to get a feel for spraying right before going to your model?

>>6207331
Manufacturers may move away from cadmium even if it isn't banned outright in this or that country. Customers preferring non-toxic, hazmat handling regulations and fees, or just not wanting any of that shit in their daily lives. Nasty stuff.

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i guess it's time to dust them off.

truck's not read yet,btw.

any of you guys use rotary tools? are they useful?

i'm thinking of getting a Dremel 3000

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WIP

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>>6207949
>ywn be greeted jolly by morskaja pehota with mp40

>>6207949
Thats a big head

>>6207949
>>6208140
But the details are really smooth and natural looking, especially the hands

>>6207949
That's really well painted but he kinda looks italian to me for some reason

>>6207949
class act my man beautifully done

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Finished the JUST raiden. Still not happy with the painted on roundels but i got myself a compass so next time I rip the decals like a spaz I can make proper masks.

>>6208256
Those paint stabs are supposed to be chipping or some kind or bird shit?

>>6208256
>>6208251
>>6208248
It would have looked 100x better if you just left the paintjob alone and didn't dab dull silver spots all over the place. Use chipping fluid next time, or at the very least, tear little bits of a paint sponge into pieces and then dip them into the paint, dry off the sponge, and dry dab it onto the model, only in places where the weathering makes sense, like on the inner portions of the wing that get walked on, or the edges of the cowling, or edges of any panels that are routinely removed for maintenance.

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>>6208260
Late war Japanese planes were often delivered without primer, so they got very heavy paint peeling. I should have probably made the chips a bit more contiguous, like in this picture.

>>6208282
I know that, I meant the execution. It doesn't even look like chips

>>6208256
>>6208251
>>6208248
Looks like absolute shit man but its good practice on what to do.

You'll get better.

Started to work on the Tuscaloosa again after another long break, I made another styrofoam base with less exaggerated waves more fit for 1/700. Just finished laying on a layer of printer paper wet with liquitex gloss medium, once that's dry I'll make some wave crests with heavy gel.
I've also primed the ship but I'm going to finish up the base first before I continue painting it.

>>6208282
>>6208287
This guy is right, it looks like you just dabbed on a paint brush dipped in silver paint, put more effort next time and make chips better by using a sponge like I said above, or use chipping fluid like AK / Mig / Vallejo. Alternatively, you can use aqua net hair spray and an acrylic paint to do chipping.

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>>6208343
Forgot the image

>>6208345
Did the kit come with a waterline base? I was super pissed that the Trumpeter Warspite didn't.

>>6208419
Oh it did, but I wasn't intending on building it as a diorama until I had already glued the lower hull onto the upper.

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>>6208256
>>6208282
I was scrolling by when this caught my attention. A trick I use when trying to simulate paint chipping is after priming, I paint the areas I want to show chipping in the color of my choosing (in this case silver) and once it's dry I get it moist and apply some sugar/ salt to the "chipped area". You can use other powders it just depends how fine/ crisp you want the chips to look, Once it's dry air brush/ spray your kit with the outer coat (in this case blue). Once that's dry chip off your salt/ sugar and it should look like reasonable wear.

My painting skills are a bit remedial so I'm sure y'all could pull off something much better looking.

>>6208343
Rock salt is also acceptable I think.

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Finished up the Sheffield as well as my first sea base, whaddya y'all think? Anywhere I can improve?

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>>6209226
FUCK

I have drilled these engines out to be fitted with LEDs. I'd like to have some sort of lens or diffuser on them to spread the light out. Any ideas on what Icould use?

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>https://youtu.be/mCJ5kgqMCBQ?t=4m41s
Can anyone tell me what kind of product he used to seal the mode with? (5:17)

>>6209317
Thin white plasticard maybe? Plain old paper?

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>>6209319
The lacquer clear coat he mentions? I'd guess this.

>>6209319
Yep its Tamiya flat, i use it too. Just Remember to keep moving your hand while spraying and dont touch your model for a while. The varnish softens the paint etc and you can fuck shit up if you touch it.

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As there isn't a date on sight for the stuff I need to finish the hull to arrive I'll paint and finish the turret, do the wheels and all the small crap of the hull/turret.
This Monday the next project will arrive and that's one I've been looking forward to do for some time... so I'll be entertained while this one get on hold :/

>>6209891
I'd totally do a The Beast of War build with that kit.

>>6210030
Wouldn't be better to use some of the takom T-55 rather than the Tiran version? Haven't seen the movie but being soviets in afghanistan it doesn't make sense to use the israeli conversion with the 105mm and other stuff

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>>6210036
They actually used the israeli model in the film.

>>6210060
Ohhh, the more you know.jpg

>>6210062
Yup. It was filmed in Israel, so it makes sense. Oddly, actual T-55s were used as well.

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The medium base over paper is dry, working on laying down the heavy gel. This part is a lot more difficult than the previous, as it's very hard to adjust the gel properly into the tips of waves and whatnot, and keeping them small enough for the scale.

I still have to apply some paper to the sides of the base as well so that it's nice and relatively flat. I think for display I'm going to place a simple rectangle of stained wood around the styrofoam.

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Where can I find concept spaceship models?

Cool looking stuff that isn't from a TV series or movie.

>>6210243
No where, maybe there's some garage kits out there, or maybe you could 3D print shit from Shapeways.

>>6210243
You're probably going to have to do some digging on the net. A lot of these kits are going to be small runs, I think, and probably not cheap.
eg:
http://www.alb-lab.it/index.php

>>6210435
Also these guys. I totally forgot the site name:
https://industriamechanika.com/shop/

>>6210082
What kind of paper did you use?

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>>6209891
I really like how the color looks, although checking the ammo website now they have "real idf 82 grey" that looks darker than mine but whatever, I think this one looks really close and faded by the sun

What's the best model filler to cover large and small gaps?
Would be nice if it didn't crumble too when I try to rescribe a few panel lines...

>>6211515
Probably tamiya white or grey putty (or other plastic solvent based one) as it bonds well with plastic but it contracts a bit when drying

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>>6211321
Yeah, between different paint batches applied differently, wear and tear, fading, scale effects, and then all the stuff that may be put on top on the model, I don't think we need to be all too worried about hitting the exact right hue all the time.

As an extreme example, this isn't camouflage, it's the "same" olive green all over. (Yeah, mostly looking for an excuse to post this one.)

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Mixing up the cannon work with a bit on the deck.

>>6211284
regular printer paper.

>>6211618
How are you going to proceed with weathering the wooden planks on the deck?

Currently working on 1/700 WW2 ships, so far I've been using chalk pastels applied with a wet brush, but would be nice to read what other anons are using.

>>6211624
I have no clue how I'd weather this, but that's the great thing about the Vasa, bloody thing didn't make it past two miles before she sank. So I'll probably just slap on a wash to bring out the details and leave it at that.

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I made a mistake

>have both halfs of my b-17 glued together
>already applied the putty to fill in gaps
>accidentally push in the window on the side with my thumb
>start screaming because there's no way I can seperate both halfs without wasting alot of time and making a mess
>try my best to get the window back in place with a peace of blue tack attached stir stick
>pic related is the best I could do

What the fuck am I supposed to do now?
It looks like shit and my inner autists just wants to abandon the project and throw it in the trash.
I'm not even sure if I will be able to remove the mask without damaging the window again.
I'm thinking about covering up this side of the plane with some drop cloth but I just don't know.
pls help

>>6211894
Hmmm... Tricky. Is that masking tape on the window? Any way you can lift it and use it as a grip? You'll need to remask it if you're successful but maybe with a liquid mask since it seems delicate.

Or, actually, maybe get some thick sprue (for bigger area contact) and some silicon sealant. Just attach the sprue to the face of the masking tape? You maybe can flatten one end of the sprue to get a bigger contact area.

>>6211925
>maybe get some thick sprue (for bigger area contact) and some silicon sealant

I was thinking about something similar but wouldn't the mask absorb some of the silicon and make it stick to the glass?
Also I super glued the right and the bottom side to the frame so I'm not sure if that will work...
but I'll give it a try tomorrow thanks

>>6211894
Just push it in completely and pull it out

>>6211955
I don't think the masking would absorb through the layers? Could always go with rubber cement if you could build up enough material.

>>6211958
This makes too much sense lol
I guess the only question there is if there's enough clearance inside to get the window to angle out without gymnastics. He could then just use tape to fashion a handle to reinsert properly. Though I wonder if there are tabs on the opposite side of the window?

>>6212041
Trust me, I've had the same thing happen many times, just push the thing into the airframe and pull it out with some tweezers.

>>6210082
>>6210243
Damn, I'm shit out of luck...

Why are they so scarce?
I wanted to get into scale models but I'm ignorant of war machinery and not into any particular franchise.

>>6212244
wow I'm bad at quoting, meant to quote
>>6210248
>>6210435

>>6212054
This. Just twist it like you're taking a couch out of a room and try again. This time tape it in line with the fuselage

>>6212244
>Why are they so scarce?

Very small market compared to the stuff with history or a well known brand behind it. Tooling up to make an injection moulded kit is also very expensive, so you don't bother unless it's somethign you're quite certain will sell a lot, and smaller makers simply can't do it. Resin is cheaper to get started but much more expensive per unit, and the molds won't last as long. So smaller runs and more expensive kits.

>I wanted to get into scale models but I'm ignorant of war machinery

No need to know anything about them really, you can just pick something you like the look of. If you then start reading up on it to research for the build, or just for inspiration, it can even be a good way to learn.

>>6211621
Nice. I tried that once and couldnt get good results

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>>6202341
i like your build so much anon, i will keep lurking for updates

made a bit of progress on my vanship, i added rivets to the engine gondola, an airscoop thingie to the side, an aero bit to the front of the cockpit and i used plastic rod to make a ring (idk what its called) arround the cockpit like you see on ww1 planes.

the rigging was removed after taking the pic, the hook needs to dry in the right angle before being put under load. the bits on the antenna are lights from a 1/35 sherman, i think i will paint them as navigational lights.

>>6202341

Can I see some other shots building up to this anon?

What is it exactly? I sorta like it.

>>6202341

What model is this exactly?

>>6212470
>>6212473
Not the guy building it, its a Industria Mechanika Remora.
https://industriamechanika.com/shop/air/35-ian-mcque-s-remora.html

I've seen a lot of builds of this kit and its a really fun project to do a futuristic look, all well done and with a ton of interesting details (google it and you will see a lot of inspirations and interesting dioramas with it).

>>6212494

Wow that looks amazing.

>149.99

Yeah. I'll wait for the knockoff I guess. I really love the design though.

>>6212431
Omg ive been following your build too #4chanbesties

>>6202341


Is yours a KO? Did you pay 149.99 for it? Thanks anon.

>>6212542
Its legit, paid 150. The owner of the company makes very little profit and shares evenly with the actual artist who designs them. He's a really great guy so I won't buy recasts.

>>6212505
There are a few smaller ships in this same series that look great

>>6212249
If you don't mind small ships, you could maybe look into gaming miniatures. They're going to be cheaper though, and you can make a fleet for display without taking up more than a shelf's worth of space if that's your thing. Probably would be best to check /tg/ for suggestions if that piques your interest.

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>>6211321
>you're a big box

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>>6213154
I've been waiting for this for some time, finally it's here. I hope they continue with this idea of doing what if and rare stuff. The tiran will be put on stand by for now, maybe finish the turret if I feel like it.

If anyone what to see what's in the box or the instructions just ask. Also I'm going to propose a group build in [no spoilers]reddit[on toy] "what if '46" themed if anyone here is interested too (no need to go there as it can be done here too)

>>6213166
Sure, post pics.
I'd do a group build but I already have a couple of kits started and I'm sort of in between jobs at the moment (I've also thrown a fair chunk of money at a Kickstarter.)
I'd totally build a '46 Panther/E-50 Hybrid

>>6213166
is this an actual ammo tool, or someone else's tool with the ammo logo slapped on it

>>6213187
When I get back I'll post them. I plan to put the deadline the 1st of September so everyone has time to pick and build with time to do other stuff too. I would love to see an e-50 hybrid tho, also good luck in you job search(?)!
>>6213203
It's a partnership (or collaboration) with takom, but fully rebranded under the ammo brand. I couldn't look much inside as I had to go, but the turret and hull is the same as the earlier releases. I have the 505 version so I can more or less compare them later.

>>6213166
>Also I'm going to propose a group build in [no spoilers]reddit[on toy] "what if '46" themed if anyone here is interested too

Hm, a bit much on the table...

>>6213207
>When I get back I'll post them. I plan to put the deadline the 1st of September

...but not that much. And I have a slight idea. Might pursue it.

>>6213166
'46 group build... Hmm, not sure what I could do for that. I have an IS-3 I've done some work on, if that could count.

>>6213166
that box is a thing of beauty, I don't think id even open it.

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I laid down a base coat of XF-17 for the ocean color, didn't feel like mixing my own color so I think it should work fine as a base, I'm going to shade it a bit with some lighter shades as well. Once I got the paint on though I realized the heavy gel dried in ways that I really didn't notice before because it was gloss clear over a gloss clear / white base, so I'm going to have to spend some time correcting it. Mostly, making the waves larger, but not too dramatic.

The thing is, it's very hard to blend / adjust the heavy gel, either with your fingers or with a paint brush. While it cleans up with water, using a damp paint brush tends to not work very well. What I've been doing is just using a brush wet with medium gel instead to work the waves.

Making realistic waves in 1/700 is damn difficult though, I feel like 1/350 would be a little easier to tackle.

>>6213166
This is a Takom kit right? It's funny how Takom and Meng and I think even Miniart is making one too, all released aroung the same exact time. I haven't built a Takom kit yet, but I know the Meng one is supposed to be really nice as well.

>>6213521
On my Sheffield I accidentally bought a fluid medium as opposed to a heavy gel, so I had to put up with it. would you say that the heavy gel is better for making stuff like waves? Mine came out a bit too uniform for my taste, and the crests are pretty shitty, see >>6209226 as reference

>>6213166
>Sheinwerfer

This triggers me.

They put so much effort into making a good and accurate model and can't be bothered to look up their 5 german words on the cover of the box?

>>6213535
Heavy gel gives you a lot more time to work with the material before it dries, and you can make much larger waves with it.

>>6213207
Seems like Trumpeter is the only game in town for an E-50 and while it's a well done kit, it has some little bits I'll end up changing even if it were a full on E-50.

If anyone is interested, I found a site that sells some aftermarket parts that look pretty decent:
http://www.paperpanzer.com/

Thinking I'll end up using the turret and some small parts mostly from an Aus F to represent a sort of integration into an existing production pipeline to represent a hypothetical early production model.

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To get rid of all the relative flatness between the large wave crests I'm dabbing medium gloss all over the flat surfaces to create an uneven textured effect, it looks good so far, hopefully it looks good once dried too. Kinda wish I coated it with paint earlier, it makes it 10x easier to work with the gel and actually see what I'm doing.

>>6213686
I like where this is going

>>6213686
Looks good so far. I wonder if that spray on orange peel texture you get at paint/hardware stores might help with a base texture to build off of? Something else to experiment with are those foam rollers. You can maybe layer it on quickly and somewhat thinly so it dries at a decent speed, then add additional coats of clear acrylic.

I mean to test it out on something like cardboard of course. It would suck to ruin an ongoing project.

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http://imgur.com/UJdDzsC
Gallery with a bit of a review on it

>>6213226
What do you have in mind?
>>6213328
I think that a vanilla IS-3 would be more akin to a cold war group build, like the t-44 it was deployed but never saw combat. So I would say that if you put it some mattress cage armor and weather it as a seasoned veteran or put some mod (two cannons, infrareds, whatever) that makes it distinctive and interesting enough all aboard. There are other options too as we are in a golden age for prototypes, what if and rare models.
>>6213348
The illustration is really inspiring and sets the mood really well, and the composition is pretty cool desu. I’m thinking of cutting and putting the main drawing along the signature in some kind of frame or mural of boxes maybe. The box art of most brands is really awesome to just be thrown away
>>6213521
Can't help much with doing water as I've never done any ship.
It's a partnership with takom, the base kit shares the same sprues with regular KT releases, but the kit exclusive ones are branded in the mold as ammo (but done by takom). There're like landslides of the same subject, but hey, I don’t mind having a lot of good stuff to choose between.
The meng release has beautiful textures (cast metal and soldering lines) but a lot of flash and odd design decisions from what I’ve seen in the review. Anyway its cheap and a solid kit and if you only care about having a KT is an excellent kit.
>>6213549
I don’t speak (or read) german but I've seen scheinwerfer written a lot and it bothered me too to the point I thought it may mean something else, but it's just miss-spelled. It reminds me of the Mr Color color sets and their awful engrish, they make a good base product and invest a ton of money on making the ¡best they can and then can’t be arsed to spell check it before giving the final OK :/
>>6213625
A man of culture I see, the schmalturm of the panther or the pz IV is much better than the horrible mantle of the e-50 one

>>6213726
Whoops thats the image not the album
Here:
http://imgur.com/a/skdsQ

>>6210243
I'm also looking for exactly this.
Are there any websites that are just for customs?

I started buying firestorm armada just because I like the look of them, but I'd like something in a more standard scale.

>>6213726
I see what you mean about the IS-3. I don't really know what I could do really, I'm not too big on what if and '46 themed things. I tend to see the war, if it continued into '46 with the Germans still taking part, being an extension of the late-war defence of Berlin, with a more Guerilla force consisting of the remnants of the SS and the likes.

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>>6213625
I have the E-50 kit, When I started on the turret, it just fit together so poorly, at least the main gun did, that I kinda gave up on it after a few hours of work, it's not pretty much a permanent part of my backlog sadly.

>>6213718
>>6213725
Yeah I don't think I'm going to try that, I like working with the brush anyways, it allows me to have a lot more control over how large the smaller waves are and whatnot. The only issue is there are some air bubbles here and there, and they're kinda hard to spot. I'm hoping the final layer of thinned gloss clear will resolve that, after I do all the detail painting / cotton ball break waves and whatnot.

The heavy gel is taking its sweet time to dry though (that's the white parts fyi), probably because I partially coated it in the thinner medium gel in order to smooth things on the top of the wave crests. I'm about 85% done, then I'll let it dry for a few hours and paint some lighter shades of sea blue around where the ship will be placed.

>>6213949
That sounds like some of the problems I'm having with my Trumpeter Hotchkiss H35/38. I hope the hull at least goes together better.

The gel is going to take some time to dry. It's better if you work in thinner layers and build up, so you have faster drying time and reduce the chances of air bubbles.
The water is looking great, by the way.

So, what's more difficult to actually make, a 1/700 or 1/350 ship? I know 350s have about a million small parts

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>>6214122
Thanks, this method is actually surprisingly easy to accomplish, I really suggest anyone else interested in making an ocean base follow it:
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=157503&p

You're right about the gel though, I'm going to lay it on less thick next time because it's taking a shitlong time to dry, and there are some air bubble problems in many places.

The only thing I did in addition to this was just brush around additional medium gel to create smaller waves all over the base.

>>6214213
It really depends on how much work you put into the ship itself. 1/700 is technically "easier" because you'll often be dealing with less parts, and smaller models in general are easier to build, but probably more difficult to paint. If you're just building a basic kit with no aftermarket, 1/700 is by far easier.

Larger scale means more parts and more details, thus more effort in the build, but that's not generally true for all models. 1/700 has its own challenges because the parts are so small and there's less room for error.

If you're starting on ships though, 1/700 is a better place to start imo because the kits are dirt cheap, most are waterline, and aftermarket sets aren't nearly as expensive as they are for 1/350. Less time to build them too which is a bonus.

Check out Flyhawk's 1/700 kits if you're interested, they have a few kits of lesser known WWII and WWI subjects.

That said, there are plenty of fine 1/350 kits out there too, but they're a lot more expensive and there's less variety too.

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What's up my peeps, I finally got around to nearly completing the weathering on the Whippet, but I just sealed it with a dullcoat and all the fucking dust I put on just disappeared. Hopefully it shows back up when it dries. Maybe it's for the best though since it looked a bit too heavy.

Man painting a checkerboard is hard as fuck. Gonna have to redo both of these

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>>6214296

>>6214296
>>6214300
Are you Remoranon? I think the one on the left has a nice look to it, in a certain way the paint bleed complements it, but I agree with redoing the right one.

>>6214306
Yeah thats me. One on the right was first attempt, left was second. Unfortunate paint bleed though so it gets a redo too

>>6214233
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Don't put a "ebyn final coat :D" ever unless you're going to play with the kit. It kills all the richness of the weathering and converts it into a matt blob

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>>6214233
>ammo belts on the top of the crew compartment

Looking for recommended 1/700 ships. I dont know a lot. I like the look of ww1 and 2 ships, with plenty of aftermarket available and hopefully PE included. Any recommendations?

>>6215021
Yeah, I just checked on it this morning and youre right. I was worried about it being disturbed when I dust it off later. I'll just get a display case for it.

>>6215026
Why not? It's not hurting anyone up there. Also they gave us ammo belts on the sprue and I felt like putting them on.

>>6213726
>What do you have in mind?

Either a Swedish Zero (it was considered for purchase at the start of the war, but delivery didn't seem realistic, enter Anderssons Taxi & Spedition, sneaking them through Russia on dog sleds) or P47 (we nearly bought 50 of them in 1945, but a last minute change of hearth got us the Mustang instead).

In either case it'll be painted up for the invasion of Norway, which the allies were speculating that Sweden might help out in (rushing the delivery of the Mustangs so we'd have them in time if we did).

If I go with the Zero I might change a few things around a bit to represent a license built version. Maybe swap the wing cannons for a pair of 13mm guns on each side or some such.

>>6215109
It's not realistic and the belts are just lying there

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Fuck Trumpeter. Just realized after doing some searching on the Internet that their Tuscaloosa model has several wrong parts listed in the instructions, specifically on the main bridge / upper hull, as well as the second triple turret.

I should have noticed it in the reference photos I looked at but I just didn't see. I'm just saying fuck it and going with the inaccuracies, mainly in the four front facing oerlikon 20mms.

Trumpeter just doesn't care. At this point I just want to get the build done anyways, don't feel like going back and scratch building as I already tossed all the "unnecessary" parts I thought I didn't need away. Even their paint guide is complete bonkers and inaccurate, so instead of following it I'm just going to do a simple Measure 22 paint job similar to the one I did on the Indianapolis.

pic related, circled are how the Tuscaloosa should look, hard to make out but I'll show in the next image what they got wrong.

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Basically this is all the shit that was wrong. I'm really pissed because it makes quite a difference visually in having an accurate kit. The parts they listed are more what one of the Tuscaloosa's sister ships, the Quincy and the Minneapolis looked like at the same time.

Seriously though, fuck Trumpeter and their stupid bullshit.

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>>6215563
>>6215585

As a side note, another slightly less angry rant about AK Interactive paints. They're not terrible, they really aren't, but they're overrated as far as I can tell. I started to use them to paint the Tuscaloosa until I realized the results just weren't that great. I tried multiple levels of thinning with their own thinner and couldn't get good results. Switched right back to Tamiya, mixed my own 5-H Haze Gray just fine with some XF-19 / XF-20 and got a very close match to the AK color, thinned with Mr. Hobby thinner (1:1 paint thinner ratio) and it goes on perfect. I tried just spraying AK directly from the jar, too thick. Thinned it down very slightly to 2:1, then 3:2 and I still just didn't like how it was spraying. Best to just go with what you know I guess, I've been using Tamiya for years with no issues.

So anyone here use AK paints and know a proper paint to thinner ratio for best results? Are there better thinners aside from AK's? I was told that you could use lacquer thinners for them, but it's definitely not the case as I tested it and the paint coagulates if you use Mr. Hobby.


>>6215610
>Defending Trumpeter when they make blatant errors
No other company fucks up with inaccuracy errors as much or as often than they do. Also, their instructions are garbage, as are their paint guides.

>>6215134
>Swedish Zero
Uf, you got me hot and bothered with that.
If you end doing it just let me know, and if you have a reddit account mention it in the GB post so I can keep track, same goes for everyone else that wants to participate.
>>6215632
That sucks, but unless you are going to a convention/meeting/competition probably you'll be the only person in your house that knows about the inaccuracies. Shame that is fucked in so many places as the build looks really good.
>Using AK stuff
That's the problem right there m8
Personal grudges aside, I've never used their paints but if they are similar to ammo I just spray them straight from the bottle and if I feel like thinning them I use Vallejo airbrush thinner, I don't really like the mix but it thins it and doesn't give a lot of problems, just keep stiring the mix and watching the tip.
Lacquers and enamels (and the hybrid that's tamiya acrylics) are hard to compare in good results with water based acrylics when airbrushed, no mystery or personal opinions here, that's a fact. If you know the mixes and aren't a lazy fuck like me that prefers to buy a color rather than looking up tables and mixing each time Tamiya is the best

>>6215664
I actually might be bringing it to a convention, local IPMS is having a "super invitational" one in April and there might be some vendors there so I want to check it out regardless.

In regards to AK, not all of their stuff is bad, but they are overpriced as fuck. I only bought their paints because it was a USN set and I wanted to see if they were any good so I wouldn't have to mix my own colors.

>>6215668
Then bring the Indianapolis that it was pretty sweet. And yeah nothing wrong with trying new stuff, in fact most of the things I have now and build recently was because "Hey, why not?" but until now nothing backfired me, except the huge amount of weathering stuff that desu I could do with less perfectly.

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This one goddamn fin took me an hour. Checkerboards are hard as fuck

On the plus side Ive perfected my recipe for old, tired sunbleached red

>>6215563
>I already tossed all the "unnecessary" parts
probably shouldn't have done that.

>>6215585
is there no in between scale these days?
is it just 1/700 - 1/350?

1/570 is a great size but I only know of old revel kits.

>>6215784
Thats a proprietary scale made by revell which is also absolute trash.

>>6215912
I know, but the size is best. if it was done decently with photo etch.
big enough to warrant a nice display case, not too big to take up too much room.

>>6215680
I might bring it, I need to make a better thinner wood base for it though. I got a few 1/32 aircraft I may bring too if I decide to go.

My stuff isn't that great though, I tend to rush things after I've been working on them too long and don't do the weathering properly and whatnot.

>>6215763
>throwing away parts

Its like you dont want to kitbash ever

>>6215763
>>6215962
I always do it. It's a habit because I don't keep old boxes, and I want to keep my workspace clean as I build. I usually wait until I have everything put together and finalized before I toss anything.

Trumpeter's fault for having the wrong damn parts in the instruction manual. All said though, I'm not too concerned about the accuracy, as all of the New Orleans class cruisers had very similar configurations, so it's not that far fetched. I could always just make it a Quincy in the pacific if I just bought some 1/700 decals and did a different camouflage scheme, as the parts I used go with an early war Quincy.

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>That feel when you have nothing to do tomorrow and can spend the night building
I wanted to redo the soldering of the machinegun but I'm not quite happy with the result, this is the second attempt and will be the final unless I find what's wrong with it. I wanted a chunky soldering typical of rushed jobs but I doesn't look right. Any though?

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>>6216032
Slightly modified

>>6216032
>>6216057
That's an E-50, right?

>>6216120
It's a KT, this one >>6213727. It's supposed to be build in July 45 so the manufacture quality I imagine it wouldn't be very refined

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well I redid the fancy makeup on the whippet and painted the bullets copper (inb4 historical accuracy which I threw out the window a long time ago). I can officially take this off the assembly line, get a display case for it so I don't blow all the makeup off, and wait for my Leichte funk to arrive. http://imgur.com/a/CRCTC

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>>6216032
Probably should clean up the mold line on the MG a little bit.
Anyway, regarding the weld: Maybe do it in two parts. First layer, either thin out the putty and apply a thin strip, or roll it and then pull the edges down but keep it fairly smooth and concave. Second layer should be thinned and added on top with a sort of rounded but lumpy look.

>>6215972
Im being 100 percent serious: if you pack all your spare parts in a box and mail them to me I'll pay shipping

>>6216032
Love it

>>6216160
I think it looks great. Far better than the ship you did

>>6216211
thanks, I think i'm much better at making land vehicles. I'm much more comfortable in that field at least. I've gotta work on my pigments though.

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>>6216182
>>6216211
Okay final attempt, I wanted to do more or less what's in your pic but I didn't quite like it so I squished it and re did the soldering line. I'm more or less happy with it now, not exactly what i wanted but it's acceptable I think.
The hull is proving to be a pita to glue as it has too many parts because the scale thickness armor and a open motorbay that makes the rear unstable, I recommend glueing the inside armor and then the upper-lower-back together before putting the lower armor and other parts.

>>6215632
I used Tamiya lacquer thinner with Ammo and Italeri paints just fine.

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>>6216032
>soldering

>>6216160
The tracks are backwards

>>6216611
Tamiya might be different than Mr. Hobby, I'll have to check it out because I don't have any right now.

>>6216624
Fuck, luckily they snap together, I'll fix them in a sec

>>6216617
What's wrong, it's not that called in English soldering?

>>6217084
I think it's because you're referring to welding as soldering

>>6217084
Not him but: no, it's welding.

When you solder you melt in a solder into the joint, but the pieces you intend to join themselves do not melt.

Welding on the other hand mostly work by melting parts of the pieces you intend to join. It's a relatively brutal process.

Soldering today is mostly used for electronics (soft soldering, low structural strength) or find work like jewellery (hard soldering, makes for every strong joints, expensive solder). Basically all large scale structural work is welding.

>>6217097
>>6217101
Ahhh okay, I always used both terms rather randomly thinking that meant the same process. In Spanish afaik both descriptions (if I understood them well) are called "soldar" (verb), "soldadura" (noun) and it doesn't matter if you are refering to electronics or putting together the steel plates of a ship. Thanks for the clarification!

>>6217131
How are you an engineer again?

>>6217135
Well I rarely work integrally in english and in spanish it's called the all the same with the distinction coming from the method (TIG, MIG/MAG, whatever) and/or what pieces we're working on, each department do their thing and we rarely work outside the same "things", for example I have no idea how the electric/electronics guys work and I don't even remember how to use the electronics suite of the CAD desu.
If I do a piece that have some weld I just use the toolbox of the CAD without thinking much about it, at most I do the calculations if those aren't given to me.

>>6216247
I'd have just left it without putty, and used a light application of a solvent-based glue to melt the plastic before imprinting it to look welded with a tool of some sort.

>>6217286
Of all the kit details so far the hull machine gun was pretty weak and didn't seat well, it looked like "floating" so to speak. I used regular putty first to close the gap but it didn't look good, so I opted for the weld to fix it and give it an unrefined look

>>6217482
If there was a noticeable gap you could've used a heated dull blade or needle and achieved the same effect, but with move ability to seal the gap.

>>6217627
Not going to discuss different methods and approaches but yeah your idea would ended with a fine line probably, although having to heat the tool constantly to get a nice control sounds like a hassle. The same could be done with a smaller quantity of green stuff tho

>>6217675
>>6217627
I think the weld line was clever and looks better than just sealing the gap

I'm having constant issues with Vallejo's surface primer. I've cleaned my airbrush with an ultrasonic cleaner, so it should, in theory, be spotless inside; yet it clogs almost instantly, even when thinned, and with flow improver added. What the fuck is wrong with it? Some people swear by this primer, so surely it can't be THAT bad?

Went to taobao to poke around after seeing the Overwatch thread. Found a Trumpeter E-50 and barrel. Looks like it'll be around 25USD out the door. I just need to hit a bank to pick up a cash card so I can finish placing the order.
They weren't kidding that navigating the site is a little tricky. Google was giving me some weird translations. On their capcha screen, one line translated as "Pro, slowly, please sit down and drink saliva!"
( 亲,慢慢来,请先坐下来喝口水!)

...
Good times

>>6217732
Hummm, I'll try to help as it's my main primer but online and with words it's a bit hard. What airbrush do you have and what needle? Have you tried to spray some water, then acetone (check your manufacturer but it should be ok) and finally water again. Do it and report back

>>6217739
H&S Ultra, 0.2 and 0.4; happens with both. Doesn't seem to clog with other paints after being cleaned thoroughly, but clogs immediately with vallejo primer. Raising psi and clearing the blockage makes it spray almost normally for a few seconds, then it clogs again.

>>6217775
Put the 0.4 and do the water-acetone-water and then run some primer (straight from the bottle), I spray at 20psi usually in case it was too high or low. Also check if the bottle is in good condition (all liquid inside and stuff like that). You said that you cleaned all so nozzle obstruction should be discarded atm. Do you have other problems with other primers? Vallejo is quite liquid compared to others so I doubt it can be related to that. Also when you spray it clogs and fills the cup with bubbles or just stops airbrushing it?

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Alright boys I need your help. Most parts of the remora are done. There are two panels left that need to be painted. What colors should I do?

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And here are the unpainted panels. They just have a little grey over the primer.

>>6217838
Bright something, like green, blue or pink. Like scavenged from something comercial

>>6216032
>>6216057
>>6216160
>>6216247
>>6217832

for heaven's sake please resize your shit

>>6217847
No

>>6217847
Australians pls go, don't you have some animal to wrestle?

>>6217832
Where do the panels go?
I think maybe another yellow, red, or orange color part, depending on where it goes, to even it out.

>>6217851
Sorry, I didn't update before posting that.
Anyway, the motivation behind the suggestion was to balance out the colors but something else to consider is contrast.

>>6217856
I like having primary colors and shades of grey. I'm refusing to have green but hot pink might be neat

>>6217809
I've only used vallejo so far. I'll give this a try tomorrow, it's a bit late to run my compressor now. Thanks for the help so far, though. Regarding the bubbles, I noticed that today; I don't believe it's been doing that for the entire time, however. I assume that's indicative of the airflow from the nozzle being blocked, same as covering it to mix paint in the cup would.

>>6217875
I'm not suggesting green, just a variation of the existing colors (see my other post). I didn't mean another new complementary color.

>>6217919
Also missing yellow on this side. May have to add some. Thanks for the advice

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Got some more work done on the base, and started the actual paintwork on the Tuscaloosa. It's standard measure 22 which is a lot easier to paint than cutting out a bunch of camo masks from tape.
For the base I airbrushed some lighter shades of ocean blue around the hull, I'm not 100% done with it yet, I'm going to lay down a few more layers after I get the ship done and painted, after that I'll put down some cotton ball fibers with medium gel for the sea foam and break waves and whatnot.

Currently in the process of masking all the upper hull surfaces to airbrush the deck blue onto it.

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Is it worth spray painting small little parts with primer? I got a 1/48 scale model of a light tank.

>>6218056
is it worth putting bulbs in my headlights since their so small?
Prime everything, you'll regret it if you don't.

>>6217847
resize your bandwidth

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>>6217847

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New to scale models, first model is cut out of the sprues and ready for cement. What's the recommendation for painting the cockpit glass as seen here >>6208256 where the raised parts are a color and some stays clear? Is what the guide said about shaving off excess paint on there with a sharpened sprue really true? And do I paint the wings before assembly or assemble, cement them and other parts necessary to the model, and then paint the body all together? Sorry if this is a real shitty question.

>>6218595
either mask it or paint it veeerrryyyy carefully with a small brush. preferably the first.

>>6217732
Are you using the Grey Primer?

I have the same setup (H&S Ultra/H&S Infinity) and it clogs up as well. Haven't tried it on the Infinity since I do most of the full coverage and priming work with the Ultra, but using the 0.2 with the grey primer only gives me like 5 minutes of work time before it starts spitting chunks.

Switching to the 0.4 needle gave me a bit more work time and it flows better from the airbrush, but eventually it gets clogged no matter what I do. Tried different dilution ratio (using their own thinner), changed PSI, tried water dilution instead. But to no avail.

Best results I got was when I over diluted, but only by a small margin, and doing a constant clean on the nozzle with a Q-tip dipped in their airbrush cleaner. I even took the airbrush apart mid session, did a sweep general clean, and went back on spraying to avoid the dreadful clog.

Black one on the other hand works flawlessly. Sprays great and doesn't clog at all so I dont really know what's the deal with the grey one.
btw, I guess that other paint works fine because they dont have the same gooey texture as the Vallejo Primer.

>>6218069
I'm on a good net connection but lately 4chan has been utter shit on the image front. Since that's unlikely to get fixed, people should be resizing.

>>6218595
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnJQ5_SpvCg

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>>6218595
Here is your model build over a weekend from an edition of finescale modeller. You obviously dont have to follow along exactly but it should give you a good indication of which basic processes you should be doing and in which order. You probably dont have an airbrush so some of those tips wont apply to you. I found modelling magazines a fantastic help when it comes to starting out.

I'll post another build after this but for now I'll give you my advice on the process.

>Assemble cockpit
>Paint cockpit and internal parts (landing gear and engine)
>Assemble fuselage, wings and stabilisers
Dont forget that everything inside the fuselage halves will have to be completed before you glue them in
>Mask and install canopy (make sure to use pva or specific clear parts glue for canopies because cement and superglue make them fog up like crazy)
>Paint body
>Paint all misc. external parts (prop, stand, fuel tanks)
>Add above parts
>Weathering + Washes
>Finished

>>6218595
>first model is cut out of the sprues and ready for cement

Someone's asking for a few small parts to disappear. Cut and glue as you go.

Often some joints, like fuselage halves, or wing-fuselage, or something ends up with a gap or step that needs filler and sanding to fix. So you need to glue that before you paint.

So the normal work-flow is to assemble and paint the cockpit, maybe wheel wells as well, then glue the main fuselage together along with most of the bits and bobs, and then paint the whole thing. Missiles and such go on once every-thing's painted.

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>>6219038
>>6218595
Forgot to mention to apply decals after painting the main hull and after attaching all the bits and bobs.

Another quick build, you should ignore everything which doesnt apply to you obviously

>>6219042
>bits and bobs,
>>6219046
>bits and bobs.

It's like we are the same person.

>>6219038
Not the guy youre responding to, but is it common to preshade with oils? Never seen that before

>>6218821
>>6218871
>>6219038
>>6219042
>>6219046
>>6219047
Thank you all very much, I will be sure to look at all this before proceeding and update as the build goes along. I actually do have an airbrush, and plan on using a technique I read about for soft edged masking using sticky tack to do the separation between the blue and white on the top/bottom of the plans body.

Happy building!

>>6219105
Not a plane builder but it's not common, first time I saw this in fact, but its like an easy way to do it without an airbrush and faster it seems

>>6219105
No, and it seems he's really only doing it to panel line as well, instead of the more general shading of preshading.

>>6218829
Black. I think I might just pick up a small bottle of another brand of primer and see how it fares.

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is there even a single reference image of this tank out there? Google is only coming back with pics of the kit and someone who built it. pic related, the dragon kit i'm getting.

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>>6218595
This anon back again, just got done cementing the wings, wheels, landing gear, fuel tanks, and the small rod that attaches to the chair in this model. Waiting on gluing the fuselage until I paint the inside for the cockpit area. When I searched RCA online to use for the canopy I got Elmer's glue as a result. Can any U.S builders confirm that it works?

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>>6219974
There seems to be a few. Use Leichte instead of Funk

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>>6220186
http://www.nemectanki.ru/html/pz_i/pz_i_funkpz.html

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>>6220186
>>6220234
Thanks man, I guess I just have to dig deeper

Also on a slightly unrelated note, I've begun weathering on the isu-122 which I wasn't planning on really investing a whole lot of time in, but it's serving as a very nice practice piece so far. This is also the first time I've brush painted an entire tank

>>6220109
Elmer's Glue is a PVA glue, aka white glue. I've heard it works and it dries clear. The adhesion probably isn't as solid as, say, cyanocrylate so if you're going to run around the house with the model making airplane noises, you might want to be careful about bumping it.
I've been using this stuff by Loctite called Go2 Glue to glue together certain parts of my models recently. It dries clear and has a slight rubbery consistency. Anyway, I think it might do decently as a canopy glue as well. Excess glue might show up as a gloss, however. I suspect that PVA will show up more as a semi gloss.
Either way, it's best to wipe away excess glue.

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Done painting the ship, need to weather it. All I've done so far is a quick dark brown pin wash.

The base is pretty much done painted, once I'm done weathering the ship and done with the rigging and whatnot I'll add the sea foam using cotton balls. I'm kinda regretting using the heavy gel to make wave crests though, it looks weird without any glossy topcoat, I'm going to try and blend them better with medium gel after I get the ship weathered.

Also, anyone know the color of USN seaplanes in the early war? I don't know how to mix a proper shade of blue for them. I'm guessing it's the same light blue color that other USN aircraft were painted at the time.

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>>6207949

>>6220257
Sweet. I don't intend to move the model around much, just keep it in a viewing area. I'll pick up the Elmer's glue if minding have any around the house already, thanks.

>>6220342
Waves dont look quite right. I would add blobs of heavy gel and drybrush them white.

Also the sea color isnt quite right in my opinion

>>6220342
Looks more opaque than I would have expected and I agree with the anon above me. The waves look like they have a few blobby bits.

can poly cement bind 2 pieces of set epoxy putty?

>>6220854
Probably not with any adhesion to speak of, use superglue.

>>6220772
It's opaque because it's not done yet, needs a lot more gloss coat to be finished, as well as making foam with cotton balls. I agree about the save crests though, they do look too blobby, they didn't look so bad when they were nice and glossy though, so I think they will blend in a lot better once I get the gloss coat back on top.

>>6220823
What would you suggest for a better sea color? I've been using XF-17 as a base, and then mixing XF-17 with XF-2 and XD-8 to create the lighter sea colors.

I'm going to tone down the light blue colors after I finish weathering the ship too. I think it will look better once I get the gloss coat on top of it too.

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>>6220919
I used black as a base, then added a shade of blue. I think xf-3. Then a minty mix of green, white and blue. I know this is a little more tropical than what you were going for.

Xf-17 is such a weird unnatural color for anything.

>>6217911
Okay, so I'm still having issues with my airbrush; it's now clogging no matter what I put through, bar pure cleaner/water. ANY paint clogs it within seconds. It's ruined a couple of models now, and has begun bubbling in the cup so violently that I now have spatters of paint all over my desk and monitor. I was close to just throwing the fucking thing off the wall. You pay that amount of money for a supposed top brand airbrush, do exactly what it's intended for with paints recommended, and it clogs in seconds. Why the fuck did I even bother?

>>6221453
If its bubbling in the cup something isnt sealed. Tip dry is a whole nother issue

>>6221519
>>6221453
Are you thinning your paints? Stripping the brush and giving it a deep clean?

>>6221520
Yes, yes
>>6221519
I know, but I can't work out what. What do you mean by tip dry? Paint drying in the tip? That's definitely happening, but it shouldn't be happening THIS quickly. I'm talking thinner in cup, paint in cup, mix mix mix, spray for a few seconds, clog.

Any tips for adding details with wire? I think some people use a sort of metal fishing line for detailing engines and such

>>6221519
Bubbling in the cup can come from back pressure due to blockage.

The main reason why you're getting problems is because vallejo, even air color, is garbage. Have you tried something actually good like Tamiya?

In any case, try spraying at 8-12PSI and let us know what happens.

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Thinking of getting an airbrush to paint scale models, but worried about the time it'll take. I paint miniatures, but extremely casually (pic related, its what I painted recently), because I have job, gym and wife. Maybe pick the brush up and paint once every 2 weeks for about an hour.

Not sure if airbrush is for me, as I've done research, and it seems to take an insanely long amount of time to set up (set up booth, compressor, mix thinner, etc.) and to clean, such that it'll take an hour to do all these excluding painting.

Any way to get it done faster? Cost is not an issue at all (but don't want to pay someone to do it, no point, no pride)

Also, how long would it take to paint, say a 1/35 panzer iv?

>>6221453
Sup I'm >>6217809, if there's bubbles in the cup its an obstruction. You need to check that the nozzle is in good shape and well rested (if there's the possibility of it being displaced somehow) and that everything is tight. Also don't over-tighten stuff as if can damage things and cause the malfunction. Check the needle too and try to push it back and forth looking for anomalies or if it lets the paint exit in case the nozzle was broken and the needle went too "out". If the problem persist 4chan isn't the place to seek help, contact the customer service and/or go to the shop were you bought it to see what you can do to repair it

>>6221614
>but extremely casually because I have job, gym and wife
That was the most awkward way I've read here to just say "I don't have much free time", that was quite embarasing.
>Not sure if airbrush is for me
k
>Any way to get it done faster?
Do what? the minis to play? the panzer?
Buy cans and paint with that the base color, then with the brush the rest if you don't feel like buying one

>>6221614
>and it seems to take an insanely long amount of time to set up

>set up booth
you don't need one

>compressor
you only have to turn on the power and adjust the pressure which won't even take you 10 seconds

>mix thinner
don't you thin your paints when you use a normal brush too?

>and to clean
cleaning can be tedious but you only have to thouroghly clean the gun once you've finished painting
A cheap ultrasonic cleaner can be handy

>>6221614
Man thats some tasty brush painting. I cant handbrush for shit and am only good at airbrushing

>>6221630
To paint the panzer. Don't need an airbrush for small enough minis

>>6221635
I need the booth because my work station is not near a window, and very small, so I need to clear it when I do something else.

I paint with a wet pellet so it auto-thins (the thing below my miniature) In fact, I stopped painting for about 2 years before the wet pellet, because setting up a paint station took 30 mins, and I had to constantly thin the paint, and couldn't stop whenever I wanted to. Now I jsut close the lid, walk off, and start whenever I want to.

What do you mean by cleaning with an ultrasonic cleaner?

Is there an ultra-quick way to clean?

>>6221654
Then I would say that start like everyone else and use cans and brushes, the bigger the stuff or intricate the scheme the longer it will take, plus weathering if you do. If you get serious with the hobby then you will get to some point where you realize that cans and brush just don't cut it anymore and invest in an airbrush. That's a pretty straightforward train of thought m8

>>6221654
Cleaning literally takes 2 minutes

>>6221654
>What do you mean by cleaning with an ultrasonic cleaner?
>Is there an ultra-quick way to clean?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vk0TSbagt5k

>>6221677
Way too much money for something that takes less time and is far easier than dumping your airbrush in liquid.

>>6221644
Cheers mate. Use a wet palette, you'll never look back, auto-thins, can leave your paint for months, ultra-convenient. practise using only a size 2 and size 0 brush. Everything below size 0 is a joke and a rip off, can't load enough paint, your paint will dry before it even touches the model.

>>6221660
I wanna airbrush for the pre-shading and camo effects. I already use brushes and spray cans for my minis.

>>6221673
But I gotta clean everytime I wanna change colour, plus mix, etc.

Also, how long will it take to paint a tamiya panzer iv 1/35 with preshading, factory fresh with winter camo? Just wanna see if its ok for me.

Will airbrushing work if I paint only in 1 hr blocks?

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Heres something thats kinda neat. I'm making a 1/1225 scale remora that will be on a shelf inside the actual cabin. Just a neat little inside thing that will never be noticed

>>6220109
>>6220454
Puttied the cemented pieces. If the weather is right I'll prime some of the plane tomorrow (the small things that need hand painting).

>>6221850
What's it made of? Putty and styrene?

>>6221935
Miscellaneous 1/700 ship parts. Hull is a lifeboat, cabin is actually an anchor

On a side note, what CA glue does every prefer? This dollar store shit I got is way too runny

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>>6221850
neat

>>6221936
I like bob smith industries insta cure CA gel, but I have muiltiple types of CA glue depending on the application. Extra thin for very small parts, I use a fine tipped applicator for this. Medium CA gel (Zap a Gap), as well as the extra thick gel kind which is useful for larger pieces in awkward positions.

Anyways I'm sone weathering / painting the Tuscaloosa for now. I'll work on the rigging tomorrow I think. I might get some 1/700 figures to to place around the decks. I also have to place a few flags on it.

The only thing I have left to paint is the seaplane. I only completed one of them as the wing broke off the other one onto my floor, and it's now lost to the carpet. Anyone have any idea what color these early USN floatplanes were painted? I know it's some sort of light blue USN color but I need some better idea of what colors to mix it from.

I also ordered Rayon cotton balls instead of using standard natural ones, as the natural ones aren't as good for making wave crests or so I've read.

Small update on the Trumpeter 1/35 Hotchkiss H35/38:
I was cutting up sprues to discard used sections and save on space/clutter. While doing so, I noticed some unused pieces and there were these two bolt heads on the sprue. I'm pretty sure they were bolt heads for the turret where the gun pivot went. Except the turret doesn't come with the indentations where those bolts are supposed to go and they certainly aren't listed in the instructions.
This just underscores how badly this kit was designed. It feels like it was rushed to tooling and I can't recommend this kit at all unless an experienced modeler feels like a challenge or otherwise to cannibalize certain parts off of it. There are some accuracy problems with the kit though.

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Nearing the finish of the hull, only wheels and tracks left. I'm thinking of using the shrapnel covers of the radiators from the march version to cover the shitty shut ones of the kit, I'm sure that with a heavy wash it would look okayish but it was a bit of a let down to see this in such a kit in the current year

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Got to the point of closing up the hull. So far it's, well, I guess we could say accurately top-heavy. And that's before the masts.

I see a lot of hand painting in my future.

Regarding the '46 Build Thing,
I came across this site about improved Shermans that I thought some people might find interesting.

http://www.theshermantank.com/sherman/the-sherman-of-the-future-advanced-sherman-updates-that-almost-made-it-into-production/

I've been told that the accuracy of 1/35 Sherman kits tend to be really shaky and few have correct suspensions. Not really sure if that's true but it probably needs to be reviewed on a case by case based on variants. Also probably depends on how badly you're obsessing over the details.

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A T-80U I finished some months ago.
I had no idea these threads existed.

>>6222808
I'll be most impressed if someone does the spiky one.

>>6210060
>>6209891
It may be crap, but the T-55 is a nice looking tank.

>>6222826
looks nice. What company?

>>6222808
Asuka/tasca shermans are regarded as some of the best. Others need to be checked in reviews before buying

>>6222826
Welcome. Come hang out with us.

>>6222836
Tru dat. There's something magical about it. If I think of a generic tank, I think of a T-55.

I need tips for brushpainting. I just cant do it no matter what I try

>>6222925
Thin properly, don't overload the brush, do as many coats as it takes.

Pretty hard to say anything mroe without the slightest clue what's going wrong.

Practice, practice and more practice will usually do the trick though.

>>6222882
Thanks!

>>6222844
Modelcollect, 1/72.

>>6222925
Thin the paint, and do many coats, it will look weird/wrong at first, but after 5 oil-like coats it begins to make sense.

>>6222925
use a flat brush where possible.

>>6222826
How did you bend the little headlight mesh?
I lost my nerve and I lost it when I tried to do it to a modelcollect T-80B model.

>>6223035
Oh those fuckers, I used a sprue part that had a similar shape for it, but it wasn't easy.

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>>6222694

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Hey anons, I bought some botes, I've only built tanks so far, how do I not fuck them up?

>>6223704
I built a ship once, a 1:700 IJN destroyer, and it's the same as tanks models.
You may want to light up with a little bit of white your base cote if you are into the scale effect, other than that just have fun.
If you gonna do the rigging, you are in for a ride.

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Tamiya 1/48 Volkswagen

A surprisingly enjoyable little build

>>6223704
Sell em. Those are shit kits

>>6224015
fuck you on his behalf.
im sick of all these oh I cant build it cos its not detailed enough faggots.

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One week later I have one panel done. Pretty plain but I guess its ok. Only one left and I can actually get on with the build