Scale Model General

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So I just got into modelling in December after getting pic related: an Airfix 1:76 Cromwell kit. It's pretty rough as it's my first attempt at modelling. Snapped the main gun trying to get it off the sprue, glued some parts on badly etc, got a bit heavy handed with the paint etc.
Tried to mix a green that's historically accurate (the kit came with a super light olive green, and I'm pretty sure British armor was even darker than what I've used) and I think it turned out okay.
With that said, I'd love some critique on this build!

TL;DR first build, talk shit or give advice if you wish.

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Pic of the front where a lot of stuff didn't quite work out

Evening guys.
Is their any 1/32 or so scale humvees that are "Topless"? I'm going to make the convicts from dead rising and I need one in the scale. Also, if anyone knows of 1/48 tanks that are cheeper the combat crushers, I'd be interested in knowing about them.

>>6146309
It's pretty good for a first timer.
I'd recommend thinning your paints, but otherwise it's a solid job. Maybe look into a wash?

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The back end is probably the part that looks the best

>>6146315
Thanks.
Yeah I tried using black acrylic thinned with water for a wash but its barely noticeable, even though I applied several coats. I'll try thinning my paints for the next project.

>>6146322
Get citadels nuln oil or vallejo wash
ask /wip/ on tg

>>6146309
>>6146312
>>6146320
>>>/r/modelmakercringe

>>6146375
Dat link

>>6146375

We get it, it's shit. But you have to start somewhere. Now actually contribute to the thread fag.

>>6146309
>>6146312
>>6146320
Okay first off don't be so heavy on the paint
Do lots of thin layers to build up a smooth, even coat without clogging the details
Then go and ask /tg/ or look up some guides on basic modelling, like how to apply decals, how to weather
It's comfy to watch and doesn't take long to learn, I promise
Invest in a wide range of brushes too, lots of small and medium ones
If you feel like you want to get into modelling proper, you'll want to pick up an airbrush
/tg/ should have a pastebin in their /wip/ so I'd advise you check there, not only is it stocked with shit there's more people there to help out

>>6146394
Thanks man, I'll check /tg/ out.

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I don't look forward to removing the mold seam from the chassis. There is a significant step.

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>>6146309
>>6146312
>>6146320
Improving is a state of mind. Finding flaws in your own work and fixing them is the first step to being good.

pic related 100+ dollar yamato kit someone slapped together without learning from past errors.

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>>6145575
Hope every one is having a good week so far.
Here is a trumpeter BMP-1P I'm working on.
I think I'm coming close to calling it done, though I still need to work on the ATGM and the rear doors some more. How is it looking so far? I think that the road wheels look a little flat desu.

>>6146460
Thanks for the advice.
Looking at the finished product I definitely have a lot of problems to address, but I'm hopeful that with a few more builds (and a better set of tools at my disposal) I'll get to a decent level of skill.

Just sprayed decanted auto primer for the first time and gotta say it was fucking fantastic. I used duplicolor and the results are every bit as good as using tamiya thin spray primer. Lots of color options too.

>>6146399
What kit and will it ever be seen?

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Which one, anons?
If I get the ostwind it'll come with an extra PZ IV G turret I can use to make a naziboo KV-I, but that sturmtiger is so tempting...

>>6146895
Do you want those kits because you like the vehicles or what? I wouldn't buy any of those two. Hasegawa is probably shit and my encounter with a 1/72 Trumpeter King Tiger didn't go well.

>>6146926
Yes, I like them both, I love the sturmtiger more but the extra turret parts from the ostwind would be great for converting another kit I'm gonna make.

Don't know about Hasegawa but I've been building a bunch of 1/72 Trumpeter kits lately and they seem fine so far outside of very slight flash on the parts, much better than the Revell 1/72 Abrams I just built, which barely fits together and has terrible looking MGs.

>>6146787
Dragon 1/35 Sd.Kfz.7/2 and yes.
>>6143830

>>6146955
Looks like it's on the inside of the frame? Won't it be covered by the truck bed? Or you can sand it with a sanding stick

>>6146399
It wont be seen unless you take out the rear bed or do some weird arrangement. Just sand it with a stick or use a n17 chisel blade to kill the gradient more quickly.
>>6146463
I like it much more with the pigments, although now it's hard to see things because of the low res collage. Working with pigments isn’t as easy as it seems first. Deposit them and fix them with thinner, then work them with a makeup sponge to get them out of weird places. Try not to make a mess with them.
In monotone vehicles a filter and some oil dots are a must to break the "green blob" look (also check color modulation, it's hard to pull off right but can be helpful).
Nobody can say much more without more info on your intentions with the model.
Don't listen to the australians and/or the poor about image size, but be reasonable with it. If one hi-res pic of the wip shows what you want go ahead, if you want to post 80+ wip pics in 4K kindly fuck off

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>>6147567
I feel like my phone camera doesn't quite show what I'm needing. I think I'm fairly satisfied with the hull sides although I am going to clean up the pigment. Also I know my wheels need work but I'm no entirely sure what to do, maybe more variation in color.

>>6147825
Try weathering all the parts seperately and then gluing everything together

there is no reason to upload over 4k size pics taken from a shitty phone camera if you want to do that use an actual dslr camera

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>>6145575
that stridsvagen is modeled with its middle wheels raised

obviously trying to copy this one in this pic, but if you notice the wheels are only like that because that tank is parked on a little hill. The wheels should be sitting level if the tank is on level ground.

>>6147825
There's a lot to do. Tonal variations are quite hard in your stage as there are washes and pigments in the way. Next time use a filter and put some oil paint dots and blend them (search oil dot rendering or something like that) as I said before.
The washes look a bit out of hand in the sides as it look a lot like paint smudges rather than grime.
Where it's supposed to be deployed?
Also as >>6147835 said the tracks, road wheels, lower hull and depending of the subject other pieces too are easier to weather them separated from the hull.

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>>6146399
Not too terrible to clean up.

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Bit the bullet and bought two of the old Tamiya Jagdpanzers, the 1973 casting. Legitimately surprised how clean the sprues are at first glance. A far cry from the Academy Pz.IV.

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Dum question:

Whats a good way to rescribe the tread on resin tires? Its gonna be gone when I remove the tab

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>>6148581
Wrong pic, those are easy to scribe. Pic related have like a hex pattern

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>>6148586
My gut says it's not worth the effort and you should position them somewhere unnoticible, whether it be on the underside or under a mudguard. I'd be more worried about the warped bulge just counter-clockwise of the tab on both those wheels

>companies mold individual tread on vehicle tyres
>don't bother sculpting the slight bulge and flat spot on the bottom of tyres from supporting weight

>>6148576
Just curious, why would you get the older kit? Cheaper?

Tamiya released a much better Jagdpanzer IV 2 years ago, I've built it myself and it's a much better kit. Dragon also has a much better kit with multiple variants.

>>6148631
Significantly cheaper, and because I'm going to be chopping holes out of them for a 40k conversion, so I really only need 'minimally viable'. I've been reading reviews and a lot of people trashed it but it seems their standard of 'bad kit' is low detail on tools and accessories. My standard of 'bad kit' is flash, warping and overall poor kit engineering. The Academy kit I put together was pretty fucking bad, and my previous experience with Tamiya is they don't really care about their old kits and will abuse the molds until they physically break, flash and bad seams be damned, so expected a similar standard of terrible. If buying the 2014 version alleviated those problems I'd buy it (or cyber-hobby's "not-Dragon" 1983 version) but I finally stumbled across a few kit builds that used the 1973 Tamiya as a base and primped it with a few PE details and tools plundered from other kits. As a cheap base model it's perfectly fine and that's all I needed.

Turns out all the bad parts of the Academy Pz.IV were Academy's fault, and things I liked (one piece tub chassis, smart engineering and casting in a way that allows for some welded seams) were all Tamiya's work, and on average the 1973 Tamiya Jagdpanzer was a fine kit.

>>6148670
Oh, so you're kitbashing, that makes sense then.

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I started to paint a pre build diorama landscape to practice washes and shading, but I feel I'm going to end up piddling it to death

Any advice?

Sorry about quality, Moto g1 after all

>>6148329
So the chassis was a single piece molding? Impressive.

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>>6148710
This is that Airfix one isn't it?
I've got the same one, everything is too round and smooth, it'll need more than paint to look good, you could try finding something to rough up the texture of the whole thing, like pic related.

If you can find something use as rubble and dirt apply a thin layer of glue over the base and put it on top.

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Question from somebody who has never done any tank model. I know that in many models you can rotate turret but what about tracks? Can they move or the wheels are glued to the chasis so the track stays static?

>>6148995
Amusing Hobby, Meng, Tiger Model and some Takom come with workable suspension and tracks (you can move them). Tamiya and some Dragon/Cyberhobby come with vinyl tracks/similar and can be used as a moving track (losing all kind of realism of sag tho), specially tamiya makes the running gear ready for use as a "toy" with the viniyl tracks and the polycaps in all the wheels.
Then you have friulmodel metal tracks or modelskasten (and others) that make aftermarket tracks that are workable

>>6148586
Those tyres look like they're moulded to sit slightly flat on the bottom

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>>6149020
Thanks, i was wondering about that becasue i want to make a 1/35 model of a Panther and i watched video of the real tank going over bumps and those wheels gave me boner that's why i want them to move. Which brand makes the best model with moving wheels and tracks?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z88mupP4mWI
It starts from 0:36
I also don't mind the version of the tank. Anything is good from Aus D to even aus F. As long as the tracks and the turret will be "operational"

>>6149060
From my experience anon if you want to have workable track links that you can interact with and doesnt feel like a toy like tamiya rubber track you have to get seperately most panthers i build dont come with workable track links thats also because Panther Track Links are harder to make the ones you buy seperate are actually joined together by joints

>>6149071
So i have to buy metal tracks speratley, got it. What about model? Which company makes the best one? Also do i have to buy sperate wheels or the ones that come with a model are allright?

>>6149092
If its your first time get a Tamiya so you dont screw things up if your sorta experience get a Dragon or Trumpeter

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Working on filters. Varnish, cure, filter, cure, varnish, cure, filter... So I also got started on a Strv 122, Revell's 1/72. Tracks are no-links-just-lengths. to be heated with warm water and then bent to shape. That's gonna be... interesting. Make sit an easy choice whether to glue in the wheels before painting at least.

Plenty of sink marks on some suspension bits (because Revell I guess), luckily the wheels cover that.

>>6149092
Metal tracks cost as much as the kit and require a blackening solution which is also really expensive. You also have to drill out the holes for the pins you make from metal wire.

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>>6149092
well you do not need exactly metal tracks for realism Something like this will do

>>6149150
>blackening solution
For what my i ask? So the tracks won't rust or to make them look realistic?
>You also have to drill out the holes for the pins you make from metal wire
So i can't just put the tracks like i'd do the rubber ones?

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>>6149155
Realism and paint will be prone to chip off even with metal primer. And no.

>>6149092
As a beginner and not having any fucking idea of what are you doing this is a hard question. I as said in >>6149020 the only ones that have workable suspension, workable tracks and poly-caps in the wheels (they won't turn if they are glued) are Tiger Model and Amusing hobby but neither do any panthers, except amusing which will release a sweet panther II prototype and one "normal" version which might be useful for you. Some dragon kits have workable suspension (again, if you want it to move like in the vid you need this in your kit) and vinyl style tracks but I have no idea if their panthers have those.

I don't recommend any of those brands to you and you should stick to tamiya as they are beginner friendly albeit a bit expensive, but their panthers are pretty outclassed so finding them cheap can be easy. The ausf A with skirts will hide the track tension and you can move it around, but they don't come with workable suspension so it will be a toy like movement.

Forget about friuls ("metal tracks") as they cost +30€, and you will be better off with vinyl or >>6149153 style plastic tracks (a fuck ton of cleaning and building ahead with plastic) which I think trumpeter has also.

Overall I don't exactly know what you expect from all this but maybe a rc tank would be much better and fun perhaps

>>6149155
Blackening Solution to make them Black like real tracks

>>6149155
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TImZ_UXZt9o

Still, much better than gluing non-clickable plastic links together. Takes some time, but nothing about it was a pain in the ass. Just keep in mind that getting them apart again after you've glued the pin and snipped it probably ain't happening without taking a chunk out of a track link.

>>6149167
>>6149164
>>6149158
>>6149150
I'm not planning on making just one model with metal tracks so spending 30 euros once won't hurt me, also i'm guessing that metal wheels are also required? + do i need blackening solution? Couldn't i paint each link with air brush before assembling them?

>>6149155
Ok theres 3 sort of tracks you can find from a kit or purchased externally
1.Vinyl- Just strap them on easy , fun but not realistic
2. Individual Track links - Slightly Realistic mostly comes with the kit not movable because you have to glue them together to join them up or make them look damaged
3. individual workable track links - let it be metal or plastic they work you can play with them a little but useless if the tank doesnt come with a workable suspension
PS :Majority of Panther kits ive seen comes with Individual Track links and no workable suspension so your sorta stuck with a panther that is just a static model sorry to disappoint but Model KITS ARE NOT A TOY

>>6149180
*making just one model.

>>6149181
Non working suspenssion wouldn't be a problem for me. Would metal tracks still work with working wheels but without suspension?

>>6149191
Sure

>>6149180
>I'm not planning on making just one model with metal tracks so spending 30 euros once won't hurt me

Don't expect to get them off again without destroying a few links or the model they're on.

>also i'm guessing that metal wheels are also required?

Not really, no.

>Couldn't i paint each link with air brush before assembling them?

Assemble them into a long strip first or it'll be fiddly as hell. Anyway, you can certainly airbrush them, just keep in mind that the paint will flake off very easily.

>>6149036
Maybe. Theyre supposed to hang off the side but it could be a poor molding

>>6149180
I wouldn't use a blackening solution, if you're using metal tracks I use AK interactives metal track weathering solution. It comes out pretty much how you would expect the tracks to look.

>>6149233
>I wouldn't use a blackening solution
>AK interactives metal track weathering solution
?
What is aka metal track weathering solution then?

Speaking of working tracks check this out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDWqGD5O05U
Some company made a demo to demonstrate the accuracy of their mils. You can't buy this model anywhere but it looks neat.

>>6149238
It's an overpriced blackening solution. Ignore the AK shill.

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>>6149243
>that pointless amount of washers

>>6149200
>Don't expect to get them off again without destroying a few links or the model they're on.
I watched video that
>>6149167
posted and in this video guy that assembles the tracks makes one pin longer for easier putting it on the tank. So i was thinking, what if i made same thing? Like do a small loop on one link so if i'd ever have to take traks off i'll just pull this one out like a grenade pin. Anyway i don't plany on taking those tracks anyway so it wouldn't be a problem for me.

>>6149299
You could reuse them on future builds.

>>6149305
Like i said i only plan on making this one Panther since i have a boner for it so it's not a problem. I thought that it might be a problem becasue wheels can get fucked or something and i'd need to take the tracks off.

>>6149313
So do you want the wheels, drive sprockets and idlers to spin with the tracks as if the tanks was driving?

>>6149318
Yeah, do wheels spin or they are glued? If they're glued having the tracks move would be enough for me.

>>6149299
>Like do a small loop on one link so if i'd ever have to take traks off i'll just pull this one out like a grenade pin.

Maybe. There won't be much space between the track link and the hull.

>>6149323
Most kits have glued wheels. Some use polycaps so they can spin. Moving tracks and glued wheels can't be kind to the paintjob.

>>6149333
I've found this
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/35345/index.htm
>Wheels have built-in poly caps for realistic movement of the belt-type tracks after assembly is complete.
So i'm guessing if i want working wheels + tracks i have to get Tamiya.

>>6149337
I don't know about those polycaps. I have a few Tamiya kits but it looks like those polycaps have too much friction to roll freely. They're better for painting and then putting the wheels on the kit.

>>6149346
How about using lubrication?

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>First tonk :3
>I want a toy, fuck the clearn and in plain english box indications of every manufacturer of scale models
>I don't mind wasting money to attempt a shitty build
>Took him 20+ posts to get to the solution some anons already posted
>Using metal tracks to get traction when playing like a tard instead of vinyl
>Breaking friuls to take them apart
>Lube polycaps that hold the wheels to the hull so they can fall apart better
Sasuga everyone, looking forward to this panther build M8.
Btw, if you want to lube the polycaps, do it on the external side so the inside can get a grip on the suspension arm rod while the exterior moves freely.

The best effect of working tracks would give you Dragon's Panther since model G has a working suspension. Don't know about tamiya, never build one. Anyone can answer this question? Tard anon probably would like to know.

>>6146309
>>6146312
I built one of these kek half of the parts didn't even for together properly it was a right sack of shit but it nonly cost me like £8 so no dramas.

I used it as a practice tank for when I wanted to create my own camo but didn't wanna fuck up my current projects test in them out to see how they look.

>>6149617
I've build the tamiya ausf a, and they have fixed suspension. In fact all the tamiya builds I've done have fixed suspension, but maybe some of the new ones have, but I highly doubt it

>>6149753
Some old models had working suspension becasue they were intended to be RC kit. But yeah, i doubt any new models have working suspension but you can always like ask in the model store or at any site you plan on getting that Panther.
http://amps-armor.org/reviews/showReview.aspx?Type=FB&ID=1583

>>6149757
I'm not tard anon nor planning to buy a panther soon, but the link was interesting. Tamiya old stuff like those 1:25 tanks and other oddities of the past are weird, yet quite interesting to see

Dragon's Panthers usually have working suspension. They're a bit more pricy but if tard anon is planning on making only one so he can play with it like the tard he is he should go with Dragon's kit.

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1:48 tamiya's P-47M cockpit pre-assembled (and painted)...

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>>6150807
...and after the assembly (1/2).

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>>6150809
2/2. Quite happy with the result.

>>6149396
Why are vinly tracks better for tard playing?

>>6150809
>>6150807
>P-47M

No juggalo makeup?

But yeah, that's looking good.

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>>6150870
Because vinyl tracks have more friction per se with all the surfaces than the metal ones.
With the vinyl you can grab and push and they will move.
With the metal ones you need a rough surface and a lot of force to grab and move them around (which is something the paint job will suffer and the kit as it wasn't intended for that in both cases)

>>6150890
How about the rubber ones that come with most of the kits?

>>6150891
Those are vinyl.

>>6150892
Oh? I thought that the rubber tracks aren't made from vinyl.
>t. tard anon

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Really stupid question. I used a shade of tamiya dark blue several months ago and now I cant find it in stores anywhere. Its the blue in pic related. Bought some xf17 sea blue last night but thats like a weird dark blue green color. Any ideas?

>>6150810
>>6150809
>>6150807
Looks really good. Whats that base green. Color?

>>6151042
I wouldn't describe tamiya's paint range as very extensive, and much less their blue color offerings. To me it look like XF8 Flat Blue or its gloss version X4 Blue.
Check here tho:
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/acrylic_flat/kit81301.htm
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/acrylic_gloss/kit81001.htm

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Received paint from Japan in the mail for future projects.

>>6151042
I think it looks like royal blue. x3

>>6151066
>Atrantic Treath
>ARMY VIHICLE
Oh Japan~ at least they are good in german for some weird reason
Just for curiosity, why did you order those set from japan when there are a ton of alternatives from other paint brands? I mean, if it was some rare subject go ahead, but here the only excuse I see is liking Mr Color a lot and don't sweating the shipping cost

>>6151094
They've had a lot more exposure to German, and I don't mean the 1930s. There are many Japanese words borrowed from German (e.g. arubaito which comes from arbeit.)

I like Mr. Color, the color matches are accurate, and shipping is no more expensive than what it would be in the US. Most Mr. Color products can be bought within the US, but the special color sets are very hard to find.

>>6151074
Thats definitely it. Maybe the store was out so I didnt see it

"This year Clive Frith is our Special Interest Guy and we have been promised a selection of really big models. /.../ His (so far) largest model, a full scale replica of a KV-1, will however not be shown."

That... sounds like a bit of a project.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/home/08-open-en/

>>6151055
mixture of vallejo MC Russian green + drop of val. MA steel blue, highlights made with val. game color jade green, which was surprisingly well-matched with that mix

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>>6148329
The suspension is assembled. I modified the exhaust so I can install it after painting and won't have the nearly impossible to clean up seam on the mufler to deal with.

Step 1: Parts B22/B27 and B21/B28 are on the wrong sides.

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>>6150807
There should be a black anti-skid coating by the pedals. The green is too light. The box on the right sidewall is a leather map box.

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>>6151448
actually, there's a photo of interior with not-so-leathery looking green metal box for maps. Also, if your filename is any indication, it's P-47D's cockpit, not M's.

>>6151448
aaand the green is lighter because (a) scale effect and (b) to see anything at all inside when the hull is sealed and canopy closed.

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The first model I ever tried to make seriously, a 1:48 A6M5 I made in my last year of highschool. I was a weeaboo way before I got into anime.

>>6151443
Are you the T-90 guy?
I thought you haven't completed it yet?

How do you know when to adjust airbrush pressure? I keep mine at about psi for pretty much everything. Are there signs if I should raise or lower?

>>6151649
>I keep mine at about psi for pretty much everything. Are there signs if I should raise or lower?
That's a fine number, personally I use [redacted] or [redacted] for fine details

>>6151601
No.

Its just been a bad day for modelling. Nothing is working the way I want to today

>>6151927

Hang in there anon. Take tomorrow off and stretch your legs a bit, drive somewhere new and just take a few hours and walk around. Maybe even just go to a model shop and browse for fun. That's what I do when I feel burned out or frustrated.

>>6151598
I've seen worse.

A Zero has been on my "what i want to build some day"-list for a long time now.

>>6151649
Getting in really bloody close to get reduce the width of the fuzzy zone meant dialling down the pressure a lot. Stynylrez primer appears to want a higher PSI, didn't bother trying it with my normal ~20, but it went on well enough at ~30. And then there's http://vodnik.net/pages/nonslip/nonslip.htm

Overall though, if your paint goes on like it should, then you were at the right pressure.

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>Hey this rigging turned out just fi.......

Uschi´s rigging line can be deceptive. Im not going to start again just to unbend the masts, ill just let this be, casuals wont see the difference

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That'll be done for now I think.

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Size comparison.

>>6152667
Very well done. I was skeptical at first. I gotta learn more about filters

>>6152640
Looks good. It looks pretty glossy though, is that just from a gloss coat for weathering?

>>6152667
Looks really good, nice and clean with minimal weathering. That's honestly how I like my models, mostly because I'm shit at weathering though and too lazy to do it properly.

>>6152667
>>6152668
It seriously lacks any kind of contrast to liven it up somehow. Not only weathering (if you dint want to do its fine) but in the basic paint job like some pre-shading, color modulation or a bit of oil rendering. It just look like a grayish blob in the pics

>>6152769
>That's honestly how I like my models, mostly because I'm shit at weathering though

Yeah, it's a pretty nice place to have them sit, but the choice was also largely based upon stopping before I start mucking shit up.

>>6152769
>is that just from a gloss coat for weathering?
Yeah it is. it only really needs the final coat at this point, but atm. cant use airbrush so i´ll do it later.

>>6152772
>or a bit of oil rendering.

There is a light dot filter in there. Needs to be cranked up to stick around after the buff "dusting" I guess.

Can I get a bit of help? Looking for the Aoshima 1/12 army bike, but I'd rather not have to pay scalper prices. Any other good WWII army bikes? Or any other good military bikes in general? Especially with a side car? I can't find any other than this at 1/12 scale.

>>6152876
Tamiya BMW with sidecar? Available in 1/48 and 1/35.

>>6152876
GWH/LionRoar R75 or BMW

>>6150810
>>6150807
>>6150809
please tell me how you paint detail

I always find the molding not sharp enough to make realistic figures

>>6153064
Not the same guy, but here are some suggestions:
Don't overload your brush with paint but using a combination of thinned and not so thinned paints as the situation calls.
For small lines, use thinner paint, while for dots, use a slightly thicker paint to bead the dot.
Something worth noting is that you don't necessarily need something like a 000 brush to do fine detail unless you're dragging the entire body of the brush. Rounds will all come to a point but the taper is pretty much what determines which one you decide to go with.
A wash will make the details pop out. For water based paints, add a drop of dish soap to the water you use to thin the paint out as a surfacant. It basically reduces the surface tension and allows the paint to flow better for paneling. There are some commercially available products out there as well if you want to go that route.

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how do you dissolve/thin this crap? used water and LT and it turned into gunk.

>>6153196
It takes a bit of mashing with a flat brush if you use water but it's possible from what I remember. You can try thinning it down with a lighter gel medium as well.
Alternatively Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is supposed to be a solvent for acrylics but I've found that results vary. It will thin fairly well under most circumstances but will also dry very fast. In worst case, it reacts poorly with the the medium/binder and starts to clump.
I vaguely remember using both methods in the past.

>>6153196
Let's see

http://www.liquitex.com/archivalpermanentvarnish/

>Thinning
>Do not thin, as it will weaken the varnish film and adhesion.

>>6153196
Forgot to ask: Are you putting it through an airbrush?

>>6153225
You weaken adhesion when you thin any of the paints using something like water. If you're really concerned about the adhesion, you can thin with a clear binding medium.

>>6153225
i neeed to clean my airbrush.

anyway, IPA did the trick.

Stupid question again.

Working with a resin model. I'm doing hairspray/masking method of doing chips. Because of this I primed it with spray can primer.

>primer (rust colored)
>micro mask sponged on
>base coat
>used tape to remove micro mask in a random fashion, making some nice chips

I've done this before, but this time it lifted parts of the primer off the resin too. Before any building I thoroughly washed the resin with dawn and simple green. The primer has been drying for about 5 days now. It is lacquer.

What can I do to aid adhesion? I just sprayed a layer of future over the primer in the hopes that'll help.

>>6153657
Use mr resin surface primer?
Using hairspray/chipping fluid?
Using salt?
What you did coating the primer with a gloss coat will give it some strength but the paint on top will come off really easily, primer helps the paint get a grip but gloss varnish/futurefuckup doesn't

>>6153657
Is it just the tape that's making the primer peel? If so, press the paint against the back of your hand once or twice before applying it to the model; it's probably too sticky.

>>6154116
>>6154114

Also should mention that the masking fluid was NOT coming off. Only very small bit of primer mask were coming off. Maybe I let it dry too long?

Never got good results with the hairspray method but maybe I'll try the salt

>>6153130
The cockpit guy here. More or less exactly like he said. I would also add - thin the paints (if acrylics, then always) and touch or drag paintbrush through a piece of paper towel to get rid of the excess paint+water. This way you can get a nice flowing consistency of paint without flooding everything. Another thing - if you want to have "edge highlight", i.e. a lighter color along any raised line (edge, cable, etc.), *always* drag the *side* of your brush (not the tip!) along the raised detail. Nice, thin, crisp line ensues.

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Well, I won't say it's finished as a lot of stuff got canned (inscriptions on the tank, a small base, some zvedza figs and some more detail work) but those can be added later, someday.
It was really fun but I feel I dragged it too much and got a bit bored in the end. I highly recommend the kit (if you find it for less than 75€) and after checking the "old" trumpeter version in my lhs this one looks more comfy to build.
Hope you like it and of course, ask all you want and critique if you feel like it.
Here's the full album so I don't hog the image cap.
https://imgur.com/a/DyGZ6

>>6154252
Should take tank crew be found guilty of severe war crimes they can simply be sentenced to cleaning it.

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Prime(er) time.

>grey primer
>don't know what i've primed or not

>black primer
>can't see shit capn


how is dark grey primer not a thing

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>>6154330
Mix your poison.

>>6154252
That looks really good dude. I didnt think it would come out this well

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Hey.
New to /toy/ (not 4chan mind you), and I was wondering if /toy/ ever does landscape modelling?
I used to do some (albeit very laughable ones) when I was a kid, and thought it would be fun to see what people still in the hobby do these days.

No bully about pic related pls.

>>6154280
lel
>>6154434
>Your lack of faith is disturbing
Gee anon, I always try to deliver
>>6154438
Here not much I think, try in /tg/ wip thread
>>>/tg/51450550
But feel free to post dioramas and ask here too

>>6154441
Thanks bud!

>>6154448
And I don't have any of my old dioramas on me regretfully, and even if I did have them I don't feel like inciting anyone to throw up at my creations this evening.

>>6154342
>acrylic "primer"

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Resin is one case where I'll use enamel over lacquer as oil based paints stick to resin better. I just brush on some Rustoleum of any color. You can also airbrush. I wouldn't recommend spray cans because they are much too high volume spray.

What the fuck?

Does anyone have an definitive answer to what is the color that needed to be used for a DAK vehicle?
Reference to RAL says 7027 or 8020 (or 1002 but I couldn't find that anywhere) but those are defined as Camouflage Brown and Camouflage Grey in the Vallejo Model Air series and look nothing like the sandy yellow the DAK was.
Tamiya says XF-60 but that shit is pure dunkelgelb.
In the Revell line my guess would be 16, but that is way too yellow (or maybe just the one I have is faulty because it looks yellowish as hell).
Anyone ever made a DAK vehicle and can share his 2 cents about the color?

Why can no company take the reins and make an absolute color catalog for the German WW2 colors...

>>6154543
Lifecolor has.

>>6154543
>Why can no company take the reins and make an absolute color catalog for the German WW2 colors...

In many cases we don't know what exactly those colours were suppsoed to be.

Then wartime conditions introduce a good amount of variation.

And we also want to adjust the hues a bit for scale effects.

If it was clear cut and easy, this shit would have been sorted a long time ago. On the other hand it also means you don't need to hit some specific colour spot on, there's a range of shit that's ok.

>>6154543
Well, arguing about WWII colours is pretty much pointless as there were manufacturing differences, batches, environmental effects, shit colour photography, etc. Heck not even surviving specimens can be considered an unquestionable truth.
I’m not much into the D.A.K but I have some infantry of it from Dragon that I will use for practice, but the colours of the uniforms aren’t the same as the afv’s afaik.
Here you have two sets that have the colours (or you can just buy separately the ones you need taking the ones include of course):
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/acrylic-sets/270-afrika-korps-smart-acrylic-set.html
http://ak-interactive.com/v2/product/afrika-korps-color-set/
And they have some books (I suppose they can be trusted):
http://ak-interactive.com/v2/product/d-a-k-profile-guide/
And this one is from Euromodelismo so its good stuff:
http://ak-interactive.com/v2/product/deutsches-afrika-korps/

And Vallejo sets which seems a bit of wild ride but come with a step by step:
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/german-afrika-korps-1941-1942-(dak)/family/17/132
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/es_ES/afrika-korps-aleman-1942-1944-(dak)/familia/17/133
(Dunno why they have two and one lists the D.A.K until 1944)

Personally I would buy the ammo mig colour as until now they have been on point on all my projects, but if those are hard to get or you have other personal preference try to come as close to that colour as you can

>all these Mig shills

>>6154598
>>6154566
Yeah... I know asking for the exact same color as it was used during that time is pointless, since colors changed, different manufacturers, weather, climate and that whole charade.
But its pretty obvious what is a dunkelgelb as well is what is dark green and red brown for that matter. You got 3-4 options from different companies, but they all play on the same hue more or less.
But as for the DAK color, theres seems to be such a huge difference between colors from different companies for the same RAL reference... one company refers to it a flesh variant while the other sells it a pale grey

>>6154612
Then what modelling company should we "shill"?

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>>6154438
I like it but my experience is limited

>>6154528
Good to know. I decanted spray paint

>>6154252
I'll admit, when I first saw all the chipping you were doing I thought it looked pretty stupid, but the final product looks great, and the weathering turned out really nice.

>Working on Supermarine Attacker
>Middle of Australian Summer
>Day one, spray primer
>Day two, paint sky
>Day three, mask sky
>Day four, paint DSG
>Day five, touch up damage from the tape and bleeds
>Now ready for gloss coat to seal it in
>Last two days have been rain, can't spray

WHAT THE FUCK? WE HAVE A FUCKING HEAT WAVE AND NOW I CANNOT SPRAY? FUCK THIS

>>6154522
Sure, it's never gonna produce the same toughness and solvent resistance that Mr. Surfacer/Tamiya SP will, but for most surfaces it's good enough and a lot easier to clean up.

>>6151598
>A6M5

I hate to break it to ya but that's an A6M2 my man

>>6154342
>>6154522
>>6155464
i like stynylrez because it's durable enough for when you hold the model and easy enough to strip with mild solvents.

>>6154528
>Rustoleum of any color
is rustoleum lacquer based? i'm assuming from the name that it's not.

>>6156512
Paints are either oil based or water based. Rustoleum is an oil based enamel, but they also have oil based automotive lacquers. Lacquer is a coating type.

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I'm a crane

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Building this thing... and jesus

I'm new to model kits, and have been trying to work on this. I'm trying to build the sherman and, is airfix always like this? The wheels are either really loose or really tight. The tank is a mess, the instructions are awful to follow.

Right now the wheels are like in at an angle, mainly because the thing that holds the wheels wont fit inside the body, like the instructions say

>>6156721
of course I could just be being retarded, but this tank is just a bitch for all the wrong reasons, I feel.

Should I just go right to the tamiya halftrack I bought on sale? I've never done armor before

>>6156721
you picked a really old kit. The airfix tanks are 1/76 and from the 60s I think. It's pretty shit.

The Tamiya Hanomag is from the 70s, but it's much better engineered. I'd start with that, although vinyl tracks can be a bitch.

>>6156721
Airfield have a reputation for being awful, especially the red box kits that include paints like the one you bought.

The Tamiya will be a night and day difference, even if it's a worn out die that creates a bunch of flash on the sprues.

>>6156810
>>6156932
I didn't buy it, it was christmas gift. I saw people saying bad things about airfix, but I thought it was just them being snobby. Well, at least I know its not me, and can finish it knowing so.

I refuse to support a company that reboxes a kit from 1957 in 2011.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/109299-airfix-a01013-de-havilland-dh-88-comet

How long do revell car models usually take to build? I come from a gunpla background and I like models that take a while

People warned me that 1/700 was going to be small and hard to build and I didn't listen, because fuck, 1/700 is small.

>>6156725
I just finished building the Tamiya half-track, you'll enjoy it a lot more.

>>6157049
Takes me about a week or two depending on how much chrome is involved and how much the hood disagrees with the engine

>>6157165
Yup.

>>6157035
>I saw people saying bad things about airfix, but I thought it was just them being snobby

Some of their new toolings are supposedly ok, but they also have a lot of old misery lying around.

>>6157327
Are you talking about the Hanomag 251/1? #35020?
Care to share a few pics?

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>>6157740
I'm still in the process of weathering and decal application, so here's a W.I.P pic. As you can see, there's still much to do such as rust and dirt accumulation.

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>>6157820

>>6157820
Don't leave it unpainted... IMO a badly painted model will still look better than a hunk of grey plastic..

>>6157869
It's painted panzer gray

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Now onto the next project

>>6157911
>next project
Who are you?

>>6157915
T-90 anon

>>6157921
Did you get any aftermarket for that Tiran?

>>6157820
>>>/r/modelmakercringe

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>>6157911
Good goyim

>>6154252
Back to /reddit/, faggot.
https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/5qulo5/t90ms_vdv/?utm_content=comments&utm_medium=hot&utm_source=reddit&utm_name=modelmakers

>>6157921
How long have you been building models? How many have you made?

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>>6157923
>>6157926
I'm thinking about getting friuls and this aber set:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/352747-aber-35g28-grilles-for-russian-tank-t-55-tiran-5-tamiya
And using some of the misc resin bags that I have. Pretty much out of the box is what I'll do unless I get some new idea tho.
What I don't know if I got shekel grabbed is with the xuron as I'm quite sceptical about them and paying 26€ for some sprue cutter, but the ones I have were cheap have been with me for more than 10 years and are dull as fuck.
A probably off topic question, anybody here does those Warhammer skeletons army? I might want to get into plastic crack figs but if I can play with them too it would be nice. Mainly if that army is broken or op or just meh as now is basically an aesthetic decision.
>>6157933
No :^)
Reddit is my second getaway drug m8, it's not my fault there is more discussion there than here
>>6157934
Technically 8 years more or less, but there was a time gap in between. I came back to the hobby again may last year

>>6157924
added so much topic to the discussion

>>6157947
Not gonna buy metal barrels? That would improve the look of the model by quite a bit

>>6157957
It will mainly depend if next time I go there they have the stuff in stock, I mean, I can live with cutting some mesh and having to work the barrel instead of detailing it up, but I'm not sure if I could deal with vinyl tracks that are that exposed. If it had side skirts they can be hidden and even leave them "functional" without having much impact in the final product, but being in plain sight getting a sag and nice finish is more important

>>6157911
I like where this is going

>>6157976
You can order stuff online. How's the modelling scene in Spain? It seems there's a lot of people into it.

>>6157979
Now that you mention it, it wasn't a good idea to put all the haul/projects in one pic. Although it could be quite interesting to put them together...
>>6157985
Yeah I know, but having to pay 15-20€ for shipping for a total of 40€ (more or less, I don't know how much the barrel would be) it doesn’t feel right. It's still early so I might come up with some other thing and place a big order (a kit for example) with the aftermarket for the tiran.
The model scene is great, except that I don't know where they do competitions (they should as I’m near an important city) and meet ups, I won’t say it’s extremely popular but a lot of unexpected people are into it or similar ones (figs, wargaming). Shops have a good stock and reasonably priced. Home of ammo mig, Vallejo and ak so their stuff is really easy to get (and with free shipping most of the time which is great for "small" purchases.

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>nobody will ever release an apocalypse tank model
C&C is literally the only reason I haven't offed myself
At least I have my mods

>>6157924
What is 'intermittent stages of weathering?'

>>6158009
Fuck it I had a revelation for a wacky small diorama. I'll do the tank seriously and when I get bored to have it around I'll make a scene with the skeletons and some nazi stuff. Although I think the scale will be off
>>6158032
There aren't any resin kits for them?
If not follow your dreams anon, perfect them, cast em and gain some dosh along the way or just have some fun

>>6158047
Where is that?

>>6157820
I like the streaking a lot. What did you use?

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Not liking the progress of the hull paint job. I might just give it a windex bath and start over.

>>6158111
It looks good, but it wants other colours. Maybe make the big long bars rustier or a different type of metal?
And I reckon it'll come up just fine with a proper wash.

>>6158111
What look you going for exactly? Probably a dark rust base and more lively colors will give you better results overall

>>6158101
Thanks, I took some oil based paint, black and white, and I made little dots along the top of the half track. I then took a fine paint brush, wet it a lot, and spread the oil paint vertically until I got the desired results. I paid extra attention to where streaking would likely occur, the vertically lined rivets are a good example.

>>6158119
>>6158135
I think I want brighter colors. Pretty happy with the base rust color but Im really lost on what to do in terms of patterns/ colors. The green fade to rust looks nice imo though

>>6158148
I would recommend a little color modulation on the larger reas so it doesnt look unpainted.

>>6158111
You the guy building that resin kit? What is it?

>>6158159
Thanks for the tip, i'll see what I can come up with

>>6158111
just curious as to what red-orange that is?

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>>6158177
Pic related but not doing that paint scheme

>>6158218
What color? Its duplicolor red oxide with bright orange sponged on. Makes a really nice rust coat

>>6158032
Kodiak Tank from Rise of the Reds ?

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Played a little more. Now I really don't think I like it. Windex bath it is.

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>>6159037
yes

>>6159676
I think that your whole approach was wrong. Start with a darker rust, or if you like that one do it again then put the hairspray/salt/masking fluid and paint in bright solid colors. No faded shit, then chip and work with oils to get the grime and streaking in a more realistic way

>>6159901
OP here and I agree. I mixed grey in with all the colors to make it aded but I think I'll stick with bright primaries and then let oils do the wearing.

I also cant decide on patterns.

>>6159920
Do the hull in one color, or like real ships/planes with a company scheme and the patches in other contrasting colors. bonus point if they look like cut away from other commercial ships. I f you have a clear plan is a pretty easy to do job and will look awesome, there's no need to overthink it

>>6159676
Do you have something like photoshop?
If you do, you can take a picture of it with only primer on a plane background, turn it black and white (desaturate), and then throw some color on it in a separate layer using a multiply layer setting just to see what color combinations might work for you.

>>6160424
Thats not a bad idea

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I se a grey tank and I want it painted green

Trying some shading. Could have gone worse I guess, though the camera doesn't quite seem like it wants to notice.

Also of note is the barrel, for some reason the gun and mantlet assembly just wouldn't fit in the turret, after filing down the inside of the turret and some parts of the gun holder (and tossing the bits that'd allow for a movable barrel completely) I finally got it all stuffed in, though with the barrel forced to point up slightly.

>>6161228
Shading looks very good in my opinion

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What the fuck
"My first tank"
>Implying he's made kits before

>>6162113
Is that from reddit? Theres actually waaaay worse ones

>>6162113
>When you realise that the plastic is green

>>6162173
yup
https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/5roswf/my_first_tank_revell_m48_patton_135/

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visiting from wip/tg, i bought an incomplete 1958 aurora 1/14" gotha bomber kit at a local thriftshop (€1,-) , while sorting trough the pieces in the box i found a nice heart shaped grill. this and my newly rikindled interest for dieselunk made me decide to make a ww1 alternate history/last exile inspired vanship. the conversion/kitbash will be a breeze as this is what i like to do. i do this project to get better at doing a realistic/real world paintjob on a model

i just cut cut and taped up the first pieces to get an idea where this is going. the guy standing next to it is 1/48 but i think he's to small, i will get some 1/35 figs this weekend so i can make the opening for the cockpit

i will post more pics when i make progress

sorry for the lang rambling post

also, is look what i found on reddit wiptoy's version of thin your paints? who cares about reddit anyway,just get your shit build lazy fuckers

>>6162418
Awesome. I love this kind of stuff

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>>6162113
This is the other image that guy posted. Is reddit full of 12 year olds?

I want to start building model car kits, but I don't want to sink $100 into an airbrush set up. Is it possible to handpaint them?

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The windex bath didnt remove all the paint, but it removed enough. I actually like this a lot. I'll touch up the rear to tie it in with the brighter front.

>>6162563
yes but poorly.
closest thing you might want to try is cans.

>>6162585
I think if you add a bit more color variation in that really rusted spot, for example if you paint one or two of the panels an aluminum color, and have a bit more blue paint chipping it should look quite nice.

help me out guys, recently got my first kit and it was coincidentally this >>6157820 and im wondering how much should i pre make before paint? since it has an open hull and a control system exposed and should i paint the caterpillar wheels separate then glue or just glue then paint altogether?

>>6162113
I swear One DAY ONE DAY there will be no more Plastic Modelers thanks to you

>>6162585
The light blue zones ended nice, kinda like an abused chipping fluid area. The middle looks like ass tho
>>6162814
Well what I would do (without having the kit in from of me) is:
>Leave the wheels and track separated and paint them
Separate the build in lower hull and upper hull
>start with the lower hull doing everything to the point of priming and painting the interior
>then do the upper hull to the point of painting the interior again
>glue the two parts together
>except the doors there aren't any common components, but if there are glue them
>finish the interior of the doors and glue them
>now you have a shell with finished interior
>mask the open top
>paint the exterior
>finish coats and decals
>glue the previously painted wheels and tracks
>weather at pleasure
>take the masking off and be done

>>6163111
Maybe if he just got a simple can of olive drab, none of this would've happened. I don't care if it looks like shit, it's his. But COME ON at least bother to paint it. That just shows that you're being lazy

>>6163170
Look i know its shit and ugly but thats babies first model I remembered my first kid as a 7 year old child was an Airfix Bristol Blenheim at that time my father just told me to build it to get me interested in it without painting it .You need to start somewhere to get to somewhere the next few kits that kid made probably are going to be painted

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Alright guys. I think I'm set. Added more light blues, greens, and faded in some orange. Looks like it sat in the ocean for 30 years and was pulled up. Ill paint a few smaller panels eventually but I think as a base this will work.

>>6163111
You're assuming that making absolute shit tier models is some how a right of passage that everyone needs to go through to become some sort of "REAL modeler".

Perhaps in some sort of vaccum where you must learn the ropes for yourself but these people who make these terrible models have access to the internet and many strangers willing to help them. Giving an excuse like 'I dont have to be patient because it's my first model' is a massive cop out and gives more credibility to the decline since people now assume they have to waste a few kits making total trash before they get good. Some people even view this teething period as some sort of automatic admission and their still terrible models are some how ok because they have 'experience' now.

That's why we call it out and don't hold back here, because you have access to resources and materials now, everyone can come here and ask for advice. A lot of the time it's newbies who think it's ok to skip steps and do it their own way who end up fucking their models up the most. If we say 'hey do it properly from the get go and you'll get better results' then we can help some people skip that trash step instead of just hand holding their way through it and having to give the same brain dead advice every time like "paint your fucking models" or "get a knife because you can't get away with nail clippers or scissors".

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Camo down. It's a good thing the Swedish military is so fond of large, blocky designs.

>>6163460
Thats a really cool pattern

>>6163330
eh, I dunno. The middle still looks a bit half-assed to put it bluntly. Have you tried the hair spray technique in that bit?

Anybody got pictures of WWII german tanks with the supplies crates strapped to them? I want to add a crate of two of extra ammo to them but i don't know where the fuck put it.

>>6163835
Like US vehicles? If they did it (I'm not saying they didn't) it would depend of the tank.
The DAK had jerrycans and spares strapped everywhere they could. In the eastern front most beutepanzers where loaded with spares (tracks and wheels mainly to keep them running) and some supplies too, tigers and pz4/3 had turret baskets. Most logistics were carried with trucks and supply units tho and its not a bright idea to carry ammo outside the tank...
I'll check some folders to see if I can find something anyway

>>6163892
>its not a bright idea to carry ammo outside the tank...

If it goes pop on the outside, your armour should keep you safe. Unless perhaps you've been storing HEAT rounds with their tips facing inwards. Just don't be a moron and keep your entire supply out there, could make it a bit stressful to retrieve it when you truly need it.

It's when ammo cooks off inside that you have a problem.

>It's another Anon buys a new kit while he's still working on another one that's unfinished and will put the old one away and work on the new one until he buys another new kit again episode

Why do I keep doing this to myself?

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>>6163892
Thanks, i know it's not very realistic but i just love tnaks with supplies strapped to them. Like when crew knows they'l lbe gone for a long time or drive a long distance and it's loaded.
I'm look for the same type of supplies like on fury.
I could try to put something myself but i know that in the back german tonks had exhaust vetns and all and mounting jerry cans on side skirts seems ugly to me.

>>6163899
The explosion will set off the other ammo and pretty much will be like being hit with some arty. Small arms will damage the ammo, not sure if they could set it off. Shrapnel will do the same, etc
There's a reason why tanks store their ammo inside m8
>>6163903
Because you are not truly committed to what you build, uninspired work is easy to put aside for a new flavor of the month

>>6163913
I was actually really into what I was building, until life got in the way, and now I just can't get back into the rhythm. Bought a new kit to hopefully get back into it.

>>6163913
>There's a reason why tanks store their ammo inside m8

Yeah, the loader's job would be a bitch and a half otherwise, especially under fire.

>>6163921
Maybe try looking up some more info on the subject, see if there are any youtube videos, or some such to slot it back into your mind?

>>6163907
It's pretty realistic m8
Especially in wars like WWII or the ones in the middle east where supply lines and communication was shite, you'd use any moving vehicle to carry the shit that you can salvage from a supply truck that gets hit with an IED or sommat

>>6163921
If you where sooooo much into it why not continue it? Because what you said just means that it doesn't have any value anymore and just jumped ship. Now you say that "bought a new kit to hopefully get back into it" so why get whinny?

>>6163924
t. a retard
>>6163937
>Comparing WWII to modern wars
>Comparing the murican fuck up hordes to the german shitfest late war armored units
The level gets lower at night here

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>>6163907
Shit like this exist anon, you just have to look for it. I know since i also get a boner for supplies.

>>6163943
Look at >>6163944
Crews would take supplies with them if they could.

>>6163946
Read nigga, read:
>>6163835
>Anybody got pictures of WWII german tanks with the supplies crates strapped to them? I want to add a crate of two of extra ammo to them but i don't know where the fuck put it.
>>6163944
>A Cromwell, an allied tank
?

>>6163943
I'm not retarded I promise, do you think jerry had much in the way of trains and trucks coming to him after the luftewaffe were shot out?

>>6163943
Been rolling joints out lead foil have we?

>>6163952
Afaik they loaded what they could in the deposit/supply trucks and roll with it.
The panther had a 79 rounds capacity, panzer IV with pak40 82 rounds and the tiger II 86 for example and that's a lot of ammo "safely" stored, outside it will get damaged and/or blow up.

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>>6163892
Okay this is what I have, this one is the best.

>>6163960
Truck broke down, I guess we're just leaving this ammo behind. I mean we have plenty of ammo for the next fight, and I'm sure we'll be resupplied after that. Who ever heard of logistics being strained in a war? And I eman if we're to put them on the outside of the tank they WILL, unfailing, get hit. God says so. Strap the rounds to the back, keep the enemy in front, and without fail you'll see incoming fire bend like a question mark to hit them.

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>>6163972

>>6163960
Whoops, I misread the first post. I didn't think it was just ammo, I thought it would be maybe a crate along with some rations and tools/netting/whatever

>>6163974
>>6163973
What you say would be anecdotal evidence at best, not that they couldn't do it, but I'm pretty sure they were expressly instructed to don't do stupid shit if they could help it. I don't even think Americans with all the trash they strapped around carried shells outside

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>>6163977
ups

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>>6163979
I will post another one to not waste more image cap, but more or less you get the idea of how they did it, the DAK has more interesting examples of stuff added on

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>>6163985

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>>6163672
Yea, but hairspray method isnt working consistently for me.

Deck is mostly done for now I guess.

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have you tried mixing picrelated with future pledge to get a stain varnish?

>>6164283
I mix tamiya flat base 1:4 with future

>>6164283
Why not just buy Liquitex satin varnish?

>>6164614
same reason people here use floor polish?
poorfagging.

aint nothing special about the floor polish, since literally everything about it can be bought separately to be customized exactly to your liking.

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>>6163973
Ammunition shortages weren't a huge issue for the Germans, surprisingly, but things like fuel and parts were always in critical demand due to design creep constantly adding more armour and weight with every iteration, causing monstrous fuel consumption and excess strain on already unreliable parts like the engine and tracks. Ergo you ended up seeing a lot of >>6163974 where tanks were modified to carry as much spare fuel, tracks and road wheels as possible. As far as I know the circular boxes for road wheels were a field modification and were never official. I'm thinking that maybe the standard boxes may have put flat spots on the wheels after rough travel and the third spare container was a "bugger it, we always need more spares" decision.

My favorite "bits" modification is applique armour using tracks and road wheels. Pretty much anything was fair game, and I found my 40k conversion can strap a length of tracks to the turret roof using scale chain that stretches just so over the hoist lugs. It looks great.

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Has anyone here has any experience with Stealth Fighters and has their camo scheme or has done some fictional fighters . I just picked this up from my local hobby store and want to try to convert it to a USAF version

>>6164776
The USAF doesn't really do camo, this is about as close as you'll get (so box art, just swap in some USAF transfers). The F35 has some odd panel-highlighting scheme, the B2 seems to come in just overall grey or black, and the F117 was just black.

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>>6164803
>this

...fuck

>>6164776
>what's the point of stealth technology when you have external pylons

Anyway, the Shinden already has a USAF paint job, even more so than the upcoming Japanese F-35 which are overall neutral grey

>>6165016
You see when i opened the box the instructions were partly damaged the painting page somehow melted and got disfigured i searched the web and cant seem to find any paint schemes for USAF Stealth Fighters

>>6165025
http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig18/10183041t2.jpg

>>6164614
it costs 15$ and i already spent ~40$ on supplies this month.

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Too much [s]shit[/s] oil streaking. how do i wash it out(it's in too deep for mineral spirits).

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>>6165072

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What do you thin this shit with?

Enamel Satin.

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>>6165124
Tried something like this?

>>6165103
I think it looks good

>>6165072
I think it looks good x2.

You can always go back with a light mist of the original color if it gets on your nerves, though.

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Basic paintjob done, on to filters and weathering.

>>6165297
Nice. Looks as detailed as the 1/35 Hobbyboss kit

>>6165302
Now whether that says more about the Revell kit or the HB one....

>>6165193
they don't have any near me. acetone, lacquer thinner?

>>6165615
Acetone could probably thin it, but would most likely have peculiar side effects the moment you put paint on plastic. Acetone is a primary component of plastic cement.

No hobby store around? They should have some brand of enamel thinner.

I have no idea what lacquer thinner would do to things. Seems like it'd be compatible though, could be worth trying if the bottle ain't too expensive. Just do a number of tests before going live with it in case it turns out to be on the aggressive side.

>>6165249
>You can always go back with a light mist of the original color if it gets on your nerves, though.
yes, thank you!

>>6165634
>enamel thinner.
Mineral spirits don't work on this shit.

>>6165644
On humbrol enamels? On that color particularly? On you jar?
It should thin, if not run some on a spare and post pics. Worst case scenario you would need their "humbrol thinner" and order it online, you can switch to another brand if this one gives you logistical and/or use problems

>>6165644
Hell yes do they work. Mineral spirits and/or white spirits have always worked on revell/humbrol enamels for me.

>>6165124
I use mineral turpentine.

>>6165751
>>6165729
>>6165656
fuck it, i'm just gonna but tamiya flat base x-21 and clear.

>>6165124
>>6165615
>>6165634
>>6165644
>>6165656
>>6165729
>>6165751
I have a 2L bottle of enamel thinners I bought at a hardware store. Works a treat for Humbrol and Testors, I add thinner a drop at a time with disposable syringes.

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Completed the Shinden 2 with a US version . Gonna do weathering when i have time to

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>>6166476
速い!

>>6162113
Why do they never paint them?

>>6166476
That was fast

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>>6166476
man I was really hoping that this would be halfway decent.

Disappointing.

Anyway, I'm getting back into the swing of things with this P-40E from Hasegawa. Should have more progress soon

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>>6162443
ty anon

>>6162418
progress! i must have jinxed myself by saying this was going to be an easy build, the original fusulage shattered like glass when i tried to make the cockpit opening, this 60 year old plastic is brittle as fuck. i'm really bummed losing the moulded detail but now it has a nice boattail rear when everything is putty'd up and sanded flat again

my lfms did'nt have any ww1 figs so i got a german tank mechanic crew from tamiya instead. it came with all kinds of nice extra bits so i think i will make a diorama

i'm not shure what to do with the engine/vangenerator yet, for mock up i use a 1/48 sherman engine wich i may or may not incorperate in the final design

willpost moar pics when progress is made

>>6166693
watch that gap there, anon.

>>6166693
As it said im gonna do wash and weathering and panel lining to bring out the detail when i have time to so currently its just a normal mediocre build then ill spray a matt coat if you mind the gloss

What's the concensus on 1:48 scale?

>>6168024
Assuming you are talking about aircraft I really like quarter scale. At 1/72 (and also 1/144) there isnt enough detail to satisfy me and 1/32 or 1/24 are too large, both in project size and physical size, for me as I tend to burn out sometimes and I dont have much space.

made a new thread
please move along in single file

>>6168271
>>6168271
>>6168271

>>6165634
>Acetone is a primary component of plastic cement.
Nope, butanone is.

>>6169256
You know how to fucking read? New thread